Diversity in Fashion

1. Diversity in
/ What is the role of London?
/ All walks
/ Where and when we have came from
/ Men in fashion
/ Exotic other
/ Fashion in a market place
fashion

2. Fashion Week
/ Paris
/ London
/ Milan
/ New York
A collection is shown in
the order of :
/ Buyers
/ Private clients
/ The media
After the shows the collection is seen in a
showroom, it is key to present the collection
according to the catwalk; allowing buyers to follow
the narrative intended.
Tip:
Know your garments and prices
Don’t get emotional on the subject if prices

3. Role of London?
London has always been seen as a hub for avant
garde collections, known for it’s effortlessly cool
aesthetic.
Does contemporary British fashion reflect modern Britain?
Should young designers be educated on diversity in order to make them more
commercially viable?
Consideration needs to be taken that the designer is no longer king / designers have become dispensable / it
is now the brand which is the core is selling point.
Therefore more fashion promoters are emerging to keep control of brand message / aim / identity.

4. All Walk
Debra Bourne
Erin O’Connor
Caryn Franklin
All WalksMission Statement
The All Walks mission is simple: to expand upon the imagery coming out of
our industry and mirror a more realistic range of women, in age, size, race
and appearance than fashion standards currently offer. We also challenge
growing hyper-sexualisation of young women in fashion. The All Walks
brand asks all fashion practitioners new and old to consider their own
viewpoint on moral and ethical boundaries believing that positive
messaging around self-esteem for young women and men is crucial.
All Walks Beyond the Catwalk. Investing in
education. Producing visionaries. Spearheading a
paradigm shift in fashion. Because we believe that
tomorrow’s big names in the fashion industry are
today’s students, we are working in education to
spread the message of diversity and individuality.
Should fashion look at the repercussions of
what it is doing?
Shouldn’t fashion make you feel good?
On the subject of using models in all shapes and sizes is it right
to suggest that High Fashion continue to use models with
unachievable looks as a driving force in selling the dream?
Could it be argued that when looking at luxury items a
consumer wants to see the ultimate perfection.
However fast fashion touchpoints such as magazines like
Grazia, should they use models closer to women reading, most
of which are a size 14 and above? To then create a clear
distinction between fantasy and reality.
However contrary to popular opinion this change may be harder to
come about. For example in a recent article published by Vogue about
the use of mannequins in the industry, when the public are faced with
larger sized mannequins, even size 10 +, sales have been seen to drop.
This could be due to consumer wanting reflected in the shop window;
who the can be and aspire to, rather simply see themselves.

5. AGE “You can’t define people by age anymore as consumers. It’s about mindset and
common values. It’s become tribal. Brands that succeed will be ones that embrace a
generation-less approach. “
L:SN Global
In the 1950, consumers were
predominantly in their 40’s,
therefore models were in
their 40’s, allowing a
stronger connection between
consumers and the brand.
79% of 50-59 and
80% of 60-69 year
old US women aged
wear makeup every
week.
The landscape of how we perceive age is changing, not too long ago models were taken off
campaigns due to their aging looks. I’m not suggesting this that this is no longer a problem,
aggressive editing is still taking place however age is being celebrated and campaigns using age
as a focus are celebrating vitality and their youthful energy towards life.
Yet despite this 50 +
women feel neglected
by beauty brands,
which either focus
solely on anti-aging
or use much too
young women to
represent product
created for them. Charlotte Rampling for Nars Cosmetics
Mary Portars has always aimed to cater
for the ‘forever forty’ woman. Her
clothing line for House of Fraser came
with a window display of “For women, not
girls”.
Simply using that slogan made older
women feel less intimidated by the
shopping experience, staff were also
mature, experienced and enthusiastic
creating an experience that feels
undivided.

6. Size
LOVE magazine turned head by using Beth Ditto, naked, on their
front cover, at 200pounds, much weightier than their average model.
Katie Grand even instructed to edit her bigger for a bigger impact.
This led me to think about how the industry is always going for more
impact, be it editing them thinner or in this case making them
bigger. Suggesting to some extent that however much we fight to be
shown reality, we are in some what of a losing battle. We want reality
but somehow scared of it, for example a decline in sales of magazines
when the ultimate perfection is not shown to us, or going onto social
networks to slate celebrities imperfections. The media does have a
large part to play in this battle, however should we as consumers not
also take responsibility?
Sophi Dahl in 1996, at 6ft
and a size 14, showed her as
a real women, even though
labeled as plus size, in truth
a healthy size for a women
of this height. A twitter
frenzy also emerged
recently when Myla
Dalbesio was chose to
model Calvin Klien
underwear along side
straight sized models...
“But the key difference with Dalbesio’s
appearance in the Calvin Klein adverts is that
the only attention called to her size has come
from the public. For years women and men
have been asking why models who represent
“normal” sizing can’t be used in high profile
campaigns without it being a gimmick or a
marketing ploy. In Dalbesio’s latest work,
their voices have been heard.”
The Guardian
These plus size models are
women that we like and as the
public think are beautiful.
How come real sizes aren’t
encouraged even more?

7. MEN
Men absorb fashion much differently to women, their inspiration
doesn’t come from analysing catwalk shows and looking up stylists,
instead trends are set predominantly by;
Band / Sport Personalities / Celebrities
/ Tommy Hilfiger became one of
many to stop doing menswear
shows and instead have a
presentation.
/ This is due to mens shows not
having a significant impact on
sales, therefore money can be put
to better use.
/ Instead dress sport personalities
exclusively to market their brand.
/ For example Tinie Tempah is
exclusively dressed by Burberry.
Impact of fashion on men
You’ll see the hunky stars of the
80s with hairy chests!
However modern day man is
groomed and hairless!
Men are also affected by
the fight to stay young,
hairlessness reminds us
of younger men.
11% of 15 year old boys would consider taking
steroids to active the perfect body.

8. Exotic Other
Donyale Luna / First black model on the front of British Vogue /1967
(However her face was covered by her hand, only one eye seen and sported European hair)
US Vogue followed 10 years later
Naomi Sims / Cosmopolitan
Cover /1973
Iman / Late 70s - 80s
Naomi Campbell / Vogue /
1990s
One black
women per
generation?
Dating back to ancient
communities, prostitutes would
advertise their services by wearing
blonde wigs.
Blonde hair has always been
associated with beauty.
Example / Beyonce
/ In Destiny’s Child she was the
only one allowed with blonde hair
Blonde hair?
Even though black models have emerged within fashion,
we still have to beg the question, is there such thing as
too black?
Example / Beyonce / Skin was lightened drastically
Chrissy Turlington, even with supermodel status she has never graced
a cover, arguably due to her South American roots which are still seen as
second class citizen in America.
September is the biggest selling issue / American Vogue / In the last
decade only European women have graced the cover other than Hally
Berry, again sporting a European hair cut
British Vogue / Kate Moss appears on 50% in the last decade
suggesting that the public are subliminally told she is what we should
model our selves alike.

9. The Global Market
Asia’s influence
We underestimate China
and Japan's interest in
western fashion / BRIC’s
want fashion, appreciate it
more than the west /
Therefore are happy to
invest.
Example /Li Fung /
Opened a marketing
boutique in Saville Row
allowing them to buy up
shops as they come on
sale.
Prada went public however
floated the company in the
Hong Kong stock exchange
knowing that they are
much more likely to invest.
Blonde White Models in up
and coming countries are a
rare sight therefore seen as
their exotic other, which sell
issues and become that of
inspiration.
Unhealthy relationships are
known to be created
between designers and
magazines.
Example / Tom Fords was
invited to edit Parisian
Vogue / Ford simply filled
the pages with his own
brand / Leading to the
editor being fired
However it is vital for
brands to create good
relationships with
magazine who continually
promote their brands
through editorials.
Japanese aesthetic coming
into Brtian / Exotic other
/Such as Kenzo (1970) and
Comme de Garcons (1981)
Daslu / Sao Paulo / Can
only be accessed through a
helicopter pad or security car
parks.
Suggesting that in Brazil’s
richest area exclusivity is key.
Tom Ford after leaving Gucci
attempted to host a catwalk
show excluding all media. The
information hungry world
replied badly to this showing
that the landscape in changing.
(The first live stream of a show
was byMcQueen)

10. Questions to ask when marketing
a product?
Do I show Older / European / Happy /
Collective ethnic / Male models or Sports stars?
What is my moral responsibility ?
How are we making people feel? Questioning
themselves?