BY- S M MUJAHIDUL ALAM DEPUTY MANAGER BANGLADESH PARJATAN CORPORATION FORMER HEAD OF THE DEPARTMENT TRAVEL AND TOURISM, NHTTI

1. SUNRARBAN
NCC-TGTA/DTM

2. SUNDARBAN: AN OVER VIEW
• The Sundarbans is the largest single block of tidal halophytic mangrove
forest with the eponymous Royal Bengal Tiger in the world, is situated in
the southern part of Satkhira, Khulna, and Bagerhat district.
• Two-thirds of the forest lies in the southwest corner of Bangladesh at the
estuary of the Ganges-Brahmaputra Delta, and on the coast of the Bay of
Bengal; and the rest one-third, in the southeast corner of the Indian state
of West Bengal.
• The forest lies a little south to the Tropic of Cancer between the latitudes
21º30´N and 22º30´N, and longitudes 89º00´E and 89º55´E. It extends
about 274 kilometers along the coast of the Bay, and inland, to a
maximum distance of 128 kilometers.
• With its array of trees and wildlife the forest is a showpiece of natural
history. It is also a centre of economic activities, such as extraction of
timber, fishing and collection of honey.
• The forest consists of about 200 islands, separated by about 400
interconnected tidal rivers, creeks and canals. The Sundarbans has rich
promises of eco-tourism. Every nature-oriented tourist will get an
unequalled opportunity to find a unique environment and overwhelming
spectrum of unusual exotic wildlife and natural scenes that has no match
in the world.

3. SUNDARBAN-AREA
• The Sundarbans was originally measured (about 200 years ago) to be of about
16,700 sq km. Now it has dwindled to about 1/3 of the original size. Because
of the partition of India, Bangladesh received about 2/3 of the forest; the rest
is on the Indian side. The total area of the Sundarbans is 6017 sq. km. Out of
which 4143 sq. km. is land and 1874 sq. km. is water-comprising rivers, small
streams and canals.
• The forest lies under two forest divisions, and four administrative ranges viz
Chandpai, Sarankhola, Khulna and Burigoalini and has 16 forest stations. It is
further divided into 55 compartments and 9 blocks.
• The Sundarbans was declared as a Reserve Forest in 1875. About 32,400
hectares of the Sundarbans have been declared as three wildlife sanctuaries,
and came under the UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999. These wildlife
sanctuaries were established in 1977 under the Bangladesh Wildlife
(Preservation) (Amendment) Act, 1974. These are Sundarbans West (9,069
ha), Sundarbans South (17,878 ha), and Sundarbans East (5,439 ha). In the
early 1980s, the Sundarbans was declared as Ramsar site.
• Finally on 6th December 1997, UNESCO declared these three sanctuaries as its
522nd world heritage site, although the Indian part was included much earlier.

4. SUNDARBAN- NAME
• The Bangla word ban means forest, and the name Sundarban was
coined either from the forests of Sundari tree ie Sundari-ban, or
from the forests of the samudra (sea) ie, Samudra-ban, or from its
association with the primitive tribe Chandra-bandhe which was
corrupted into Sundarban. The generally accepted explanation,
however, is its derivation from the Sundari tree, the most common
tree in these forests.
• The name 'Sundarbans' appears to be of recent origin i.e., during
the British rule. Its ancient name was Kalikabon, while the medieval
name was Bada, derived from Arabic word 'badish' meaning forest.
Mughal rulers described the area as Muradkhana and Jeradkhana,
also as 'Bhanti' but at present people who live along the borderline
of the forest prefers it as 'Bada.'

5. SUNDARBAN- FORMATION
• The Sundarbans area was formed with the deposition of silt carried down
by the Brahmaputra and the Ganges rivers and by a large number of
tributaries. It has been said that, the tidal swamp of the forest extended
landward to the base of the Rajmahal hills and filled up in the latter part
of the tertiary. Later evidence showed that the Bengal basin tilted
eastward during the 12th century because of neo-tectonic movement
resulting in a higher elevation of landmass in the eastern areas of the
forest from sea level.
• Soils of the Sundarbans mangrove forest differ from other inland soils in
that they are subjected to the effects of salinity and water logging, which
naturally affect the vegetation. In places soils are semi-solid and poorly
consolidated.

6. SUNDARBAN- CLIMATE
• Climate in the Sundarbans is moderate. Air is humid. Full monsoon is from June to
September. Since the forest is located on the south of the Tropic of Cancer and
bounded by the northern limits of the Bay of Bengal, it is classified as tropical moist
forest.
• The temperature in the Sundarbans remains almost uniform all round the year; the
highest mean temperature being 32˚ Celsius and mean lowest, 29˚ Celsius. High
temperatures occur from mid-March to mid-June and low in December and January.
The mean maximum temperature for the hottest months has been recorded as 32.4ºC
at Patuakhali, in the east of the Sundarbans. Humidity is highest in June-October and
lowest in February.
• The average annul rainfall in the forest is 75 inches. Dry and cool season in this forest
starts at the end of October and continues till the end of March. During ebb tide the
forest becomes bare by 6-7 feet and at high tide (30 miles and hour) the entire territory
of the forest floats on water. The mean annual relative humidity varies from 70% at
Satkhira to 80% at Patuakhali. Annual rainfall in the Sundarbans is in the range of 1640-
2000 mm; rainfall increases from west to the east. Most rainfall occurs during the
monsoon from May to October. Frequent and heavy showers occur from mid-June to
mid-September. Often storm accompanied by tidal waves result widespread inundation
and cause damage to vegetation and animal life.

7. SUNDARBAN: FLORA & FAUNA
• The speciality of the Sundarbans is its amazing natural resources, which
includes a few globally endangered species. It is interesting to note that
plants do not thrive on the harsh environment of the estuarine deltaic
landmasses.
• High salinity both in soil and water, fluctuation of water level, anoxic
water saturated soil, and strong winds make the area difficult for most
plants to thrive if not aided by special adaptation to cope with adverse
conditions.
• Thus mangrove environment shows less diversity of plants and hence birds
and animals depend on plants species. In this respect the Sundarbans
sustains an amazingly large variety of flora and fauna and stands unique
among the mangrove forests of the world.

8. SUNDARBAN: FLORA
• The Sundarbans, a tidal mangrove forest covering nearly 6000 sq. km. along
the Bay of Bengal is the main reserve forest of the country. It is the largest
contiguous block of mangrove forest remaining in the world.
• The most famous tree in the Sundarbans, Sundari grows mainly in the fresh
water zone and can attain a height of thirty to forty feet. It sends up from its
roots small prongs or spits, up to thirty centimeters or more in height, which
are sometimes as thickly placed as to leave little room for walking.
• The most elegant tree in this forest, Keora (screw pine) is also the tallest one,
and may reach a height of about 40-50 feet. A saltwater zone tree, its sour
fruit and slender leaves are delicacies to the deer and the monkey.
• The next prominent tree is the Garan, which does not grow more than ten to
twelve feet in height. A highly saline water tree, Garan shows up first when a
new land emerges out of the sea. The tree, Geoa, numerous in numbers in this
forest, produces some sort of a poisonous gum. This tree is used as raw
material to produce newsprint.

9. SUNDARBAN: FLORA
• The other trees grow in the forest worth mentioning are Pashoor, Bain,
Dhundal and Garjan. Among the plants of Sundarbans, henthal, resembles
a short and thin date tree, grows in cluster and not more than fifteen to
sixteen feet tall. With clean bed and covered above, a thicket of this plant
is one of the best lurking places for a tiger. A bush of thorny hudo or tiger
fern is also a choice for the predator to stay in ambush. Another
prominent plant of the Sundarbans, Golpata (Nypa fruticans), belongs to
• the palm family, but does not grow tall. It may attain a height of about
eight meters. The riverbanks of the forest are seen lined up with this
plant. In the human habitats near the forest, Golpata is used widely as
roofing material.

10. SUNDARBAN: FAUNA
Sundarbans is home to many different species of birds, mammals,
insects, reptiles and fishes. Over 120 species of fish and over 320
species of inland and migratory birds have been recorded in the
Sundarbans. The Gangetic River Dolphin is common in the rivers.
No less than 50 species of reptiles about 400 species of fish and
eight species of amphibians are known to occur.
The Sundarbans now support the only population of the Estuarine,
or Salt-Water Crocodile in Bangladesh, and that population is
estimated at less than two hundred individuals. Here land and
water meet in many novel fashions, Wildlife presents many a
spectacle. No wonder, you may come across a Royal Bengal Tiger
swimming across the streams or the crocodiles basking on the
riverbanks.

11. • Besides the spectacular Royal Bengal Tiger, the other notable mammalian
fauna are spotted deer, Barking deer, Rhesus macaque, Jungle cat,
Leopard cat, the Indian porcupine, Otter, and wild boar. Deer and wild
boar constitute the main prey for the tiger. Some species including the
Bengal tiger are endangered.
• The ecological diversity of the Sundarbans supports a large variety of
birds. Among the total number of species recorded, most are resident.
Over 50 species are known to be migratory and are mostly represented by
the waterfowls. The egrets, storks, herons, bitterns, sandpipers, curlew,
and numerous other waders are seen along the muddy banks. Nine
species of kingfishers are available in the forest. The rich avifauna of the
forest include species of woodpeckers, barbets, owls, bee-eaters, bulbul,
shrikes, starlings, mynas, babblers, thrush, oriole, flycatchers, and many
others.
SUNDARBAN: FAUNA

12. SUNDARBAN: FAUNA
• Of about 50 species of reptiles the largest member in the Sundarbans is the
estuarine crocodile. Some of which may attain a length of about seven metres.
Although once they were abundant in this mangrove habitat, their total
number is now estimated to be around 250. Species of lizards, including the
Monitor Lizards Varanus, turtles, and snakes are well represented. Among the
snakes, the King Cobra, Russell's viper, Rock Python , Banded Krait and several
species of sea snakes are notable.
• Only eight species of amphibians have been reported from the Sundarbans.
The green frog is mostly observed in Chandpai area of the mangrove forest.
The other forest amphibians include the Skipper frog, Cricket frog, Tree frog,
and the common toad.
• The Sundarbans suports nearly 400 species of fishes in its varied aquatic
habitats; these include both the pelagic and demersal fishes. Many species use
these habitats as nursery grounds. No aquaculture or fish farming is allowed in
the Sundarbans. The Forest Department controls the fish catch from the area.

13. SUNDARBAN

14. Hidden beauty of the Sundarbans
Mangroves throughout the world attract a wide variety of organisms making
them a biologically rich habitat. Hidden beauties of Sundarbans are enormous.
The beauty of the deep green forests in the early morning and evening, the
basking crocodiles along the margins of the creeks and inlets, the quick,
delicate movements of the deer at the drinking pools, as well as the beautiful
seashore, will quicken the hearts of even the most world-weary traveler. There
are six different seasons, each giving different perspectives of the forest. In the
rainy season, the fresh green leaves appear full of youthful vigor. The
waterways during this period are full of fishes and provide great sport for the
fisherman. Majestic white waves roll in from the Indian Ocean to end their
journey on the spectacular shore. Each winter, thousands of guest birds and
colourful ducks transform the water body into a bird sanctuary. From the sight
of thousands of shorebirds wheeling in perfectly synchronized flight over the
water, to the soft calling of myriad’s of song-birds as they fly overhead on an
autumn night, or the ghostly silhouettes of geese seen passing across a full
moon, there are few other natural environments that can compete.

15. Hidden beauty of the Sundarbans
It is a virgin forest which until recently owed nothing to human endeavor
and yet nature has laid it out with as much care as a planned pleasure
ground. For miles and miles, the lofty treetops form an unbroken canopy,
while nearer the ground, works of high and ebb-tide marked on the soil
and tree trunks and the many varieties of the natural mangrove forest
have much to offer to an inquisitive visitor. Here land and water meet in
many novel fashions, Wildlife presents many a spectacle. No wonder, you
may come across a Royal Bengal Tiger swimming across the streams or the
crocodiles basking on the riverbanks. With the approach of the evening
herds of deer make for the darkling glades where boisterous monkeys
shower Keora leaves from above for sumptuous meal for the former. For
the botanist, the lover of nature, the poet and the painter this land
provides a variety of wonder for which they all crave.
•

16. Main Attractions
Wildlife photography including photography of the famous Royal Bengal
Tiger, wildlife viewing, boating inside the forest will call recordings, nature
study, meeting fishermen, wood-cutters and honey-collectors, peace and
tranquility in the wilderness, seeing the world's largest mangrove forest
and the revering beauty.
This is indeed a land for the sportsmen, the anglers and the
photographers with its abundance of game, big and small, crocodile, wild
boar, deer, pythons, wild-birds and above all the Royal Bengal Tiger,
cunning, ruthless and yet majestic and graceful, For the less adventurously
inclined, there are ducks and snipes, herons and coots, yellow-lags and
sandpipers. It is also the land for the ordinary holiday makers who desire
to rest or wander around at will to refresh their mind and feast their eyes
with the rich treasure that nature has so fondly bestowed.

17. Means of Communication
Water transport is the only means of communication for visiting the
Sundarbans from Khulna or Mongla Port. Private motor launch,
speedboats, country boats as well as mechanized vessel of Mongla
Port Authority might be hired for the purpose. From Dhaka visitors
may travel by air, road or rocket steamer to Khulna - the gateway to
the Sundarbans. Most pleasant journey from Dhaka to Khulna is by
Paddle Steamer, Rocket presenting a picturesque panorama of rural
Bangladesh. Day and nightlong coach services by road are also
available. The quickest mode is by air from Dhaka to Jessore and
then to Khulna by road. Journey time varies depending on tides
against or in favor in the river. Usually it takes 6 to 10 hours journey
by motor vessel from Mongla to Hiron Point or Katka.

18. Famous Spots: Kachikhali (Tiger Point)
Kachikhali (Tiger Point) is one of the most fascinating islands on the
mouth of supati-estuary. The unique forest vegetation extends down to
the 9-kilometre long sandy sea beach. In winter hundred of thousands
fishermen use the sea beach for drying their catch. Migratory birds,
spotted deer in big herds, wild boar and the Royal Bengal tigers are often
seen. Pythons are also likely to be seen here in the grasslands as well as
the king cobra. Sea gulls, kites and oystercatchers are also abundantly
found here. Katka islands are a place at the confluence of Katka khal and
Betmore River. In the rivers, canals, estuaries and forest meadows and
trees; there are an extravaganza of wild animals and birds, which will all
captivate the visitors.

19. Dublar Char
Dublar Char, the delta shaped island is part of our great mangrove forest, the
Sundarbans, situated on the eastern bank of the Passur and considered as a key
area for dried fish trade. It is a beautiful island where herds of spotted deer are
often seen to graze.
The eastern face of the island popularly known as 'Alorkol' is the site of the great
bathing festival of Dubla on Rush Purnima. The event is arguably the biggest
festival of the southwestern Bangladesh. Every year, thousands of pilgrims and
fun-lovers throng the place irrespective of their religious beliefs.
The pilgrims spend a lot of their time singing religious songs. Dhol, kartal, khol
and harmonium are their accompanying instruments. This is the only festival they
can participate in without any prejudice although sometimes they fall prey to
pirates. Only a third of the visitors are camped on the beach and the rest are
scattered inside the forest creeks either for hunting deer or enjoying adventure in
the forest. Although the festival is observed on the eve of 'Rush Purnima' in
memory of Lord Krishna's romantic episode with Radha and her aides, but here
Komoley Kaming, a river goddess, is considered as the chief deity.

20. Thousands of people gathered there and it became impossible to
move without bumping into others. While some of the crowd paid
homage to the deities, most of them encircled the stage where Lila
Kirton was going on. The shopkeepers were busy selling cosmetics
and other household goods.
The main attraction of the Dubla festival is bathing in the sea.
Thousands of devotees sitting on the shore with various offerings.
They were waiting for the high tide. Peoples were singing religious
songs. As the tide turned high, the devotees rushed to the water to
take a dip. The devotees believe that the holy bath would wash
away their sins and would help emancipate them from next
incarnation. On the banks for the river Meher Ali near Dublar Char,
one can enjoy spectacular sunrises and sunsets, in which the sea
and the sun appear to kiss each other twice a day. The memory of
Dublar Char will remain forever in the heart of the beholder.
Dublar Char

21. Katka
Katka: Katka is one of Heritage sites in Sundarban. Katka
attracts tourists for its landscape and wildlife. In Katka there is
a forest rest house and a wooden watching tower of 40 ft.
high from where you can enjoy the scenic beauty of
Sundarban. A beautiful sea beach is there is Katka; you will
enjoy while you are walking to go the beach from the
watching tower. Verities birds are visible in Katka.

22. Hiron point:
This is another tourist spot in Sundarban. It is called the
world heritage state. You can enjoy the beauty of wild
nature and dotted dears walking and running in Hiron
point. If you are lucky you can see the Great Royal Bengal
Tiger, but for sure you can at least see the stepping of
Great Royal Bengal Tiger here and there in these spots.
Hiron Point also has a rest house and an observation
tower.

23. Karamjol
Karamjol is a forest station for the Rangers. Here you can see
a dear breeding center. To visit Sundarban you need to go
there with a guide and it is even better if you go there with a
group. You can stay two/three days in Sundarban depending
on your desire and requirements. One-day tour is not enough
for Sundarban as you will not be able to see the nature in
haste. For one-day tour you can go up to Karamjol and at a
glance visit the outer portion of Sundarban forest areas.
In the full moon the nights in Sundarban could be one of the
most memorable nights for your whole life.

24. Life in Forest
Only means of transportation inside the forest is boat. There is no
road, no trail of a path anywhere. The woodcutters make temporary
dwellings at the edge of the forest at a height of 8-10 feet for fear
of wild animals others live on boats.
In the chandpai region it is fascinating to see the nomadic
fishermen (living with families on boats) catching fish with the help
of trained otters. Exciting activities take place in Dublar Char in the
forest where fishermen from Chittagong gather for four months
(mid Oct. to mid Feb.) to catch and dry fish. But the most daring
and exciting of all activities is presented by the honey-collectors
who work in groups for just two months (April-May) and it is
interesting to see how they locate a hive and then collect honey.

25. Tourist season & Shooting
Best time to visit the Sundarbans is from November to
March. Exciting honey collection season is during April-May.
Law in the country for the preservation of wildlife prohibits
hunting. Certain species of birds, however, can be shot with
prior permission of the Divisional Forest Officer, Khulna.

26. Requirements
Permission from the Divisional Forest Officer (DFO), Khulna is
required to visit the forest. Cholera vaccine is to be taken well
in advance. Anti-malaria, anti-diarrhoeal, insect repellent
cream, drinking water, medical kit, light tropical dress, thick
rubber soled boots etc. are to be carried with the tourist. It
will be wise to take the help of an experienced guide to make
the journey fruitful.

27. Local Population
Due to its rich biodiversity and unique ecosystem, the ecological
importance of the Sundarbans Reserve Forest (SRF) is immense. Over 3.5
million people live in the Sundarbans' Ecologically Critical Area (ECA), with
no permanent settlement within the Sundarbans Reserve Forest. Of them,
about 1.2 million people directly depend on the Sundarbans for their
livelihoods. Most of these people are Bawalis (wood cutters/golpatta
collectors), fishermen, crab and shell collectors; Mawalis (honey
collectors) and shrimp fry collectors and mostly women and children.
Their dwellings are usually at the edge of the forest and the houses are
built on platforms supported on 3-5 m high poles of wood or bamboo.
Some people, especially the bedyas (gypsy) live on boats.

28. Local Population
Fishermen come in their boats from as far away as Chittagong and
establish temporary encampments at various sites along the coast,
where they remain until the approach of the monsoon season in
April before returning to their homes. Apart from the large
numbers of people employed by contractors in the commercial
exploitation of sundri and other tree species, the local people are
themselves dependent on the forest and waterways for such
necessities as firewood, timber for boats, poles for house-posts and
rafters, golpatta leaf for roofing, grass for matting, reeds for fencing
and fish for their own consumption. The season for collecting honey
and wax is limited to two and a half months commencing annually
on 1 April. Thousands of people, having first obtained their permits
from the Forest Department, enter the forest in search of bee
nests, which are collected and then crushed to extract the honey
and wax.

29. Economic value, tourism and forest dwellers
The most important value of the Sundarbans lies in its protective role. The
estuary is a good breeding centre for many fishes. Several plant-based
industries have been developed here. The most important ones are the
newsprint and hardboard mills in Khulna. The raw material for the former is
gewa and for the latter sundari. Other important plant-based industries are
match factories and boat building. The forest is a good source of fuel, tannins,
thatching, wooden articles, medicinal plants, and fodder. The forest is also a
major source of honey and bee wax.
The floor of the Sundarbans is flat and its maximum ground elevation is three
meters above the sea level. The forest undergoes two low tides and two high
tides within every 24 hours and 50 minutes. During high tides, the most of the
forestland goes under water; the tidal range being usually three to four
meters. On full-moon night as well as on the night of new moon the range
soars much higher. Though rare, the tidal bore hits the forest with great
devastating effects on it.

30. Ecologically, Sundarbans plays an important role, globally and regionally. The
Sundarbans stands tall with 31 genuine mangrove species out of world's 56
(UNESCO). As other mangrove forests of the world already are well depleted, the
Sundarbans on the contrary, possess an area of more than 70 percent well clothed
in dense vegetation.
The area's religious and cultural importance is reflected in a religious festival once
a year, which attracts local Hindu devotees, and in the venerable ruined Hindu
temple of Sheikh at Shekher Tek. The reduction in fresh water flow due to water
diversion, the construction of dykes combined with the pollution of the industries
and the ports of Khulna and Mongla have tremendously affected the plant and fish
population of Sundarbans. The site is notable for the long history of scientific
management with protected areas established along the southern periphery of
this mangrove wetland. There are eight field stations that provide data for a
number of ongoing studies and researches. Recently an information and education
center was established at Khulna and a new Integrated Sundarbans management
plan is under preparation under the Sundarbans Biodiversity Conservation Project
funded by Asian Development Bank.
Economic value, tourism and forest dwellers