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Peking Opera




                Costume Design
                      &
                   Makeup

                   Jessica Wu
                  March 17, 2011

Jessica Wu
             Peking Opera Costumes Research, Page 1
Types Of Makeup

                         TEENAGE GIRL AND WOMEN MAKE
                                                                        UP
                         The makeup of teenagers and women are
                                                                      quite different
                         from others. All teenagers and women cha
                                                                      racters have thin
                         and defined brows, thick and black eyeline
                                                                      rs, bright pink
                         blush and bright lipsticks that contrasted
                                                                    harshly with their
                        powdered white skin. The eyeliners made
                                                                     their eyes look
                        larger, and the bright blush and red lipstick
                                                                       made them
                        look energetic and happy all the time. Tho
                                                                     se thin and
                          slightly arched brows also gave them a very
                                                                       feminine look.


                                                            oto of a Jing, also
                               The photo at the left is a ph
                                                           ptain. His face is
                               known as a general or a ca
                                                             d from that, we can
                               generally covered in red, an
                                                             brave and loyal. The
                               see that he is probably very
                                                           at he has probably got a
                               bright red also showed th
                                                            e different shades of
                                very fierce personality. Th
                                                              is very honest and
                                blue also showed us that he
                                respectful.


                      GENERAL MAKE
                                            UP INFORMATIO
                      The use of facial mak                        N
                                             eup in Peking opera
                      ago. Back then, acto                           began about 1,400
                                            rs used to wear actu                          years
                     on them. However,                            al masks with colors
                                           they later substituted                       painted
                     the audience could                             the masks with mak
                                          hear them and see th                           eup so
                    The purpose of thos                           eir facial expression
                                          e exaggerated facial                         s better.
                    audience would imm                            makeup is so that th
                                            ediately be able to kn                     e
                    personality and the                            ow the character’s
                                         character’s social st
                   have their special ty                       atues. Each of the fo
                                         pes of makeup and                            ur roles
                   though the makeups                         patterns. However,
                                          may be similar, none                       even
                   would ever be alike                             of the two painted fa
                                        since each mask is un                            ces
                                                                 iquely designed.



Jessica Wu
               Peking Opera Costumes Research, Page 2
Costumes




Material                                                  Colors
In early days, costumes was made of mainly wools or       Just like makeups, each type of color also has different
                                                          meanings in costumes. Like the color yellow can only be
rough fabric. Later, satin, silk, crepe and velvet were
                                                          worn by royalties. The color red is for highly respected
also used. The costumes would usually be decorated        characters. Green can only be worn by military
with carefully embroidered designs.                       characters. White is usually for teenagers and black is
                                                          for upright people and sometimes servants.




  Symbols                                                 Types
  Different symbols also have different meanings          Each different type of character would have different
  on costumes. Let’s take a dragon design for             types of costume. Rich people would have costumes with
  example. On the emperor, the mouth would be             long and flowing sleeves, made out of silk, covered in
  wide open. Generals would have dragons with             bright colors, and decorated with embroidered designs.
  mouths closed. Whereas dragons on an officer            However, poor people would have costumes made out of
  would be gentle and quite.                              rough fabric, small sleeves, simple designs with light pastel
                                                          colors, and their costumes would only reach their knees.



 Jessica Wu
                                         Peking Opera Costumes Research, Page 3
Accessories/Shoes/Hair




                                         The photo above shows a pair of       The image above is a pair of shoes
                                         female shoes. We can see by the       for old women characters. We can
       Above is a photo of Peking                                               see that they have much plainer
                                         way they are heavily decorated
          Opera boots. These are                                                color and aren’t very decorated.
                                         with embroidery. Also, there are
      generally worn by most male                                             Also, the heel is spread evenly and
                                          those heels in the middle that
     characters and military figures.                                           not too high, making it easier for
                                          symbolizes the shoes of young
     They also have very high heels,                                          the old characters to move around.
                                               female characters.
      however, they spread evenly
     over the sole of the shoe, giving
       it a more masculine effect.




                                                        Headdress
 While performing, the actors for          While performing Chinese Opera,
 mature female characters would                                                       Weapons would also be used in
                                          most of the characters would most
have their hair put into a bun and                                                    some plays that contains war
                                             likely wear a headdress. The
 covered by a headdress. Young                                                            and fighting. The most
                                            headdress also expressed one’s
  women would have sometimes                                                            common ones are swords,
                                           social statue. We can see that the
  have their head braided at the                                                        sticks, whips and Qiang (A
                                          headdress about is decorated with
side or into two strands. While old                                                    traditional Chinese Weapon
                                          pearls, fur balls, and embroidery. It
  women get their hair covered                                                              with a sharp head).
                                           showed that the character is very
       with a piece of cloth.                                                         Sometimes, when performing
                                            highly respected and very rich.
                                                                                          a war theme, flags with
                                            Whereas a poor character would
                                                                                         different colors with the
                                         have a much simpler headdress with
                                                                                       country’s name on it would
                                                       plain colors.
                                                                                                also be used.


   Jessica Wu
                                         Peking Opera Costumes Research, Page 4
Colors In Masks and
Makeup
Red-Bravery, Loyalty, Fierceness

Black-Roughness, Boldness

Yellow-Ambition, Calmness, Cruelty

Purple-Nobel, Wisdom, Uprightness

Blue-Loyal, Committed

White-Suspiciousness, Treacherous, Sinister

Green-Impulsive, Violent, Stubborn

Gold, Silver-Gods, Ghosts, Supernatural beings


My Opinion On Chinese
Opera Costumes:
I think that the Chinese Opera costumes Designing system is
very neatly arranged. Each color has got it’s own meaning
and each role has got it’s own special type of costume and
makeup. Also, I really liked most of the costumes because
they all look very beautiful. Each small detail is perfected, and
all of them are made by hand. Which I think is quite amazing
because of the tremendous amount of embroidery on each
on. I also really liked the make up and masks since all the
colors are quite bright and they all contrasted with each other
Jessica Wu
                               Peking Opera Costumes Research, Page 5
sharply. The bright colors also has got other purpose than
just looking good, they are used to emphasize the face of
each characters. The makeups are eccentric so the audience
would watch the character’s face closely and no expression
would be missed. Hence increasing the quality of the play.




Jessica Wu
                  Peking Opera Costumes Research, Page 6
My Costume Design
Above is my final Peking Opera Costume design. This costume is for a
teenage girl between the age of 15-20. I used big and watery sleeves and
long dress to show that my character is a girl. I drew mostly cloud
patterns, which symbolizes good luck. I chose some bright colors to
show that the girl is very rich. Due to the bit of yellow at the left side, it
shows that the girl is some kind of royalty since they are the only ones
that are allowed to wear the color yellow. I also used some blue to show
that the girl is very clever and mature.




Jessica Wu
                           Peking Opera Costumes Research, Page 7
Bibliography
"Baidu Image." Baidu. N.p., n.d. Web. 16 Mar. 2011. <http://www.ourjg.com/bbs/UploadFile/
2008-11/2008111821403619303.jpg>.

"Baidu Image." Baidu. N.p., n.d. Web. 16 Mar. 2011. <http://image.baidu.com/i?
ct=503316480&z=&tn=baiduimagedetail&word=%BE%A9%BE%E7%CB%EF%CE%F2%BF
%D5&in=15853&cl=2&lm=-1&pn=5&rn=1&di=14614077750&ln=2000&fr=&fmq=&ic=0&s=0
&se=1&sme=0&tab=&width=&height=&face=0&is=&istype=2#pn4&-1>.

"Baidu Image." Baidu. Baidu, n.d. Web. 17 Mar. 2011. <http://image.baidu.com/i?
ct=503316480&z=&tn=baiduimagedetail&word=%BE%A9%BE%E7%CD%B7%CA
%CE&in=23980&cl=2&lm=-1&pn=1&rn=1&di=941500350&ln=1459&fr=&fmq=&ic=0&s=0&se
=1&sme=0&tab=&width=&height=&face=0&is=&istype=2#pn1&-1>.

"Baidu Image." Baidu. N.p., n.d. Web. 17 Mar. 2011. <w95.bengzi.org.tw/upload/costume_image/
105/preview_20061024044314.jpg?1161636195>.

"Baidu Image." Baidu. N.p., n.d. Web. 17 Mar. 2011. <http://image.baidu.com/i?
ct=503316480&z=&tn=baiduimagedetail&word=%BE%A9%BE
%E7%D1%A5&in=21208&cl=2&lm=-1&pn=1&rn=1&di=14295265155&ln=972&fr=&fmq=&ic
=0&s=0&se=1&sme=0&tab=&width=&height=&face=0&is=&istype=2>.

China Daily. "Peking Opera." Chinese Culture.org. China Daily, n.d. Web. 14 Mar. 2011. <http://
www.chinaculture.org/gb/en_artqa/2003-10/29/content_44014.htm>.

China Daily. "Types China Opera Costumes ." China Daily.com. China Daily, n.d. Web. 16 Mar.
2011. <www.chinadaily.com.tw/index.php?
option=com_content&view=article&id=1608:characteristics-of-peking-opera-
costumes&catid=67:cultural-general&Itemid=392>.

China Daily. " Characteristics of Peking Opera Costumes." China Culture.Org. China Daily, n.d.
Web. 16 Mar. 2011. <www.chinaculture.org/gb/en_artqa/2003-09/24/content_27354.htm>.

"Chinese Opera Mask Zhou De Wei." Jade Market Hong Kong. N.p., n.d. Web. 17 Mar. 2011.
<www.jade-market-hong-kong.com/Merchant2/graphics/
00000001/17_9201ChineseOperaMaskZhou

H, TTING. "Chinese Opera by ~TTING-H on deviantART." deviantArt. N.p., n.d. Web. 17 Mar.
2011. <http://tting-h.deviantart.com/art/Chinese-Opera-99940860?q=boost%3Apopular%20chinese
%20opera&qo=16>.

"Meaning of Colors in Beijing Opera Masks." Cultural China. N.p., n.d. Web. 15 Mar. 2011.
<www.cultural-china.com/chinaWH/html/en/Arts175bye665.html>.

"Types of Facial Makeup in Peking Opera." Cultural China. N.p., n.d. Web. 14 Mar. 2011.
<www.cultural-china.com/chinaWH/html/en/27Arts175.html>.
Wing, Frank. "Woman wearing make up for Peking opera performance - Lonely Planet Images."
Travel photography and professional stock photography - Lonely Planet Images. N.p., n.d. Web. 17
Jessica Wu
                                    Peking Opera Costumes Research, Page 8
Mar. 2011. <http://www.lonelyplanetimages.com/search/183540?query_url=Ntx%3Dmode
%2Bmatchpartial%26Ntk%3Dall%26N%3D4294965690%2B4294900021>.

Xiao, YuanZi. "Xiao Yuan Zi De Blog." blog.163.com. Wangyi, n.d. Web. 17 Mar. 2011. <http://
218lh.blog.163.com/blog/static/10503137620092865245552/>.

"Baidu Image." Baidu. N.p., n.d. Web. 17 Mar. 2011. <http://image.baidu.com/i?
ct=503316480&z=0&tn=baiduimagedetail&word=%BE%A9%BE
%E7%D0%AC&in=19833&cl=2&lm=-1&pn=8&rn=1&di=26247538500&ln=2000&fr=&fmq=&i
c=&s=0&se=&sme=0&tab=&width=&height=&face=&is=&istype=2>.

"Baidu Zhidao ." Baidu. Baidu, n.d. Web. 14 Mar. 2011. <http://zhidao.baidu.com/question/
54972296>.

"Chinese Opera Mask, Guan Yu ." Paul and Bernice Noll Website . N.p., n.d. Web. 17 Mar. 2011.
<http://www.paulnoll.com/China/Opera/color-red.html>.

"Peking Opera Fu Zhuang." China Cart. N.p., n.d. Web. 17 Mar. 2011. <http://news.at0086.com/
UserFiles/fuzhuang.jpg>.




Video:
“BaWangBieJi”.Youku. 16 Mar.2011. <http://v.youku.com/v_show/id_XMjQxMzM5MjQ=.html>.


Books:
Mackerras, Colin. Chinese Theater: From Its Origins to the Present Day. Hawaii: University of
Hawaii Press, 1998. Print.

Xu, ChengBei. Peking Opera (Cultural Chinese Series). Beijing: China Intercontinental Press,
2003. Print.




Jessica Wu
                                    Peking Opera Costumes Research, Page 9

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Peking opera assignment

  • 1. Peking Opera Costume Design & Makeup Jessica Wu March 17, 2011 Jessica Wu Peking Opera Costumes Research, Page 1
  • 2. Types Of Makeup TEENAGE GIRL AND WOMEN MAKE UP The makeup of teenagers and women are quite different from others. All teenagers and women cha racters have thin and defined brows, thick and black eyeline rs, bright pink blush and bright lipsticks that contrasted harshly with their powdered white skin. The eyeliners made their eyes look larger, and the bright blush and red lipstick made them look energetic and happy all the time. Tho se thin and slightly arched brows also gave them a very feminine look. oto of a Jing, also The photo at the left is a ph ptain. His face is known as a general or a ca d from that, we can generally covered in red, an brave and loyal. The see that he is probably very at he has probably got a bright red also showed th e different shades of very fierce personality. Th is very honest and blue also showed us that he respectful. GENERAL MAKE UP INFORMATIO The use of facial mak N eup in Peking opera ago. Back then, acto began about 1,400 rs used to wear actu years on them. However, al masks with colors they later substituted painted the audience could the masks with mak hear them and see th eup so The purpose of thos eir facial expression e exaggerated facial s better. audience would imm makeup is so that th ediately be able to kn e personality and the ow the character’s character’s social st have their special ty atues. Each of the fo pes of makeup and ur roles though the makeups patterns. However, may be similar, none even would ever be alike of the two painted fa since each mask is un ces iquely designed. Jessica Wu Peking Opera Costumes Research, Page 2
  • 3. Costumes Material Colors In early days, costumes was made of mainly wools or Just like makeups, each type of color also has different meanings in costumes. Like the color yellow can only be rough fabric. Later, satin, silk, crepe and velvet were worn by royalties. The color red is for highly respected also used. The costumes would usually be decorated characters. Green can only be worn by military with carefully embroidered designs. characters. White is usually for teenagers and black is for upright people and sometimes servants. Symbols Types Different symbols also have different meanings Each different type of character would have different on costumes. Let’s take a dragon design for types of costume. Rich people would have costumes with example. On the emperor, the mouth would be long and flowing sleeves, made out of silk, covered in wide open. Generals would have dragons with bright colors, and decorated with embroidered designs. mouths closed. Whereas dragons on an officer However, poor people would have costumes made out of would be gentle and quite. rough fabric, small sleeves, simple designs with light pastel colors, and their costumes would only reach their knees. Jessica Wu Peking Opera Costumes Research, Page 3
  • 4. Accessories/Shoes/Hair The photo above shows a pair of The image above is a pair of shoes female shoes. We can see by the for old women characters. We can Above is a photo of Peking see that they have much plainer way they are heavily decorated Opera boots. These are color and aren’t very decorated. with embroidery. Also, there are generally worn by most male Also, the heel is spread evenly and those heels in the middle that characters and military figures. not too high, making it easier for symbolizes the shoes of young They also have very high heels, the old characters to move around. female characters. however, they spread evenly over the sole of the shoe, giving it a more masculine effect. Headdress While performing, the actors for While performing Chinese Opera, mature female characters would Weapons would also be used in most of the characters would most have their hair put into a bun and some plays that contains war likely wear a headdress. The covered by a headdress. Young and fighting. The most headdress also expressed one’s women would have sometimes common ones are swords, social statue. We can see that the have their head braided at the sticks, whips and Qiang (A headdress about is decorated with side or into two strands. While old traditional Chinese Weapon pearls, fur balls, and embroidery. It women get their hair covered with a sharp head). showed that the character is very with a piece of cloth. Sometimes, when performing highly respected and very rich. a war theme, flags with Whereas a poor character would different colors with the have a much simpler headdress with country’s name on it would plain colors. also be used. Jessica Wu Peking Opera Costumes Research, Page 4
  • 5. Colors In Masks and Makeup Red-Bravery, Loyalty, Fierceness Black-Roughness, Boldness Yellow-Ambition, Calmness, Cruelty Purple-Nobel, Wisdom, Uprightness Blue-Loyal, Committed White-Suspiciousness, Treacherous, Sinister Green-Impulsive, Violent, Stubborn Gold, Silver-Gods, Ghosts, Supernatural beings My Opinion On Chinese Opera Costumes: I think that the Chinese Opera costumes Designing system is very neatly arranged. Each color has got it’s own meaning and each role has got it’s own special type of costume and makeup. Also, I really liked most of the costumes because they all look very beautiful. Each small detail is perfected, and all of them are made by hand. Which I think is quite amazing because of the tremendous amount of embroidery on each on. I also really liked the make up and masks since all the colors are quite bright and they all contrasted with each other Jessica Wu Peking Opera Costumes Research, Page 5
  • 6. sharply. The bright colors also has got other purpose than just looking good, they are used to emphasize the face of each characters. The makeups are eccentric so the audience would watch the character’s face closely and no expression would be missed. Hence increasing the quality of the play. Jessica Wu Peking Opera Costumes Research, Page 6
  • 7. My Costume Design Above is my final Peking Opera Costume design. This costume is for a teenage girl between the age of 15-20. I used big and watery sleeves and long dress to show that my character is a girl. I drew mostly cloud patterns, which symbolizes good luck. I chose some bright colors to show that the girl is very rich. Due to the bit of yellow at the left side, it shows that the girl is some kind of royalty since they are the only ones that are allowed to wear the color yellow. I also used some blue to show that the girl is very clever and mature. Jessica Wu Peking Opera Costumes Research, Page 7
  • 8. Bibliography "Baidu Image." Baidu. N.p., n.d. Web. 16 Mar. 2011. <http://www.ourjg.com/bbs/UploadFile/ 2008-11/2008111821403619303.jpg>. "Baidu Image." Baidu. N.p., n.d. Web. 16 Mar. 2011. <http://image.baidu.com/i? ct=503316480&z=&tn=baiduimagedetail&word=%BE%A9%BE%E7%CB%EF%CE%F2%BF %D5&in=15853&cl=2&lm=-1&pn=5&rn=1&di=14614077750&ln=2000&fr=&fmq=&ic=0&s=0 &se=1&sme=0&tab=&width=&height=&face=0&is=&istype=2#pn4&-1>. "Baidu Image." Baidu. Baidu, n.d. Web. 17 Mar. 2011. <http://image.baidu.com/i? ct=503316480&z=&tn=baiduimagedetail&word=%BE%A9%BE%E7%CD%B7%CA %CE&in=23980&cl=2&lm=-1&pn=1&rn=1&di=941500350&ln=1459&fr=&fmq=&ic=0&s=0&se =1&sme=0&tab=&width=&height=&face=0&is=&istype=2#pn1&-1>. "Baidu Image." Baidu. N.p., n.d. Web. 17 Mar. 2011. <w95.bengzi.org.tw/upload/costume_image/ 105/preview_20061024044314.jpg?1161636195>. "Baidu Image." Baidu. N.p., n.d. Web. 17 Mar. 2011. <http://image.baidu.com/i? ct=503316480&z=&tn=baiduimagedetail&word=%BE%A9%BE %E7%D1%A5&in=21208&cl=2&lm=-1&pn=1&rn=1&di=14295265155&ln=972&fr=&fmq=&ic =0&s=0&se=1&sme=0&tab=&width=&height=&face=0&is=&istype=2>. China Daily. "Peking Opera." Chinese Culture.org. China Daily, n.d. Web. 14 Mar. 2011. <http:// www.chinaculture.org/gb/en_artqa/2003-10/29/content_44014.htm>. China Daily. "Types China Opera Costumes ." China Daily.com. China Daily, n.d. Web. 16 Mar. 2011. <www.chinadaily.com.tw/index.php? option=com_content&view=article&id=1608:characteristics-of-peking-opera- costumes&catid=67:cultural-general&Itemid=392>. China Daily. " Characteristics of Peking Opera Costumes." China Culture.Org. China Daily, n.d. Web. 16 Mar. 2011. <www.chinaculture.org/gb/en_artqa/2003-09/24/content_27354.htm>. "Chinese Opera Mask Zhou De Wei." Jade Market Hong Kong. N.p., n.d. Web. 17 Mar. 2011. <www.jade-market-hong-kong.com/Merchant2/graphics/ 00000001/17_9201ChineseOperaMaskZhou H, TTING. "Chinese Opera by ~TTING-H on deviantART." deviantArt. N.p., n.d. Web. 17 Mar. 2011. <http://tting-h.deviantart.com/art/Chinese-Opera-99940860?q=boost%3Apopular%20chinese %20opera&qo=16>. "Meaning of Colors in Beijing Opera Masks." Cultural China. N.p., n.d. Web. 15 Mar. 2011. <www.cultural-china.com/chinaWH/html/en/Arts175bye665.html>. "Types of Facial Makeup in Peking Opera." Cultural China. N.p., n.d. Web. 14 Mar. 2011. <www.cultural-china.com/chinaWH/html/en/27Arts175.html>. Wing, Frank. "Woman wearing make up for Peking opera performance - Lonely Planet Images." Travel photography and professional stock photography - Lonely Planet Images. N.p., n.d. Web. 17 Jessica Wu Peking Opera Costumes Research, Page 8
  • 9. Mar. 2011. <http://www.lonelyplanetimages.com/search/183540?query_url=Ntx%3Dmode %2Bmatchpartial%26Ntk%3Dall%26N%3D4294965690%2B4294900021>. Xiao, YuanZi. "Xiao Yuan Zi De Blog." blog.163.com. Wangyi, n.d. Web. 17 Mar. 2011. <http:// 218lh.blog.163.com/blog/static/10503137620092865245552/>. "Baidu Image." Baidu. N.p., n.d. Web. 17 Mar. 2011. <http://image.baidu.com/i? ct=503316480&z=0&tn=baiduimagedetail&word=%BE%A9%BE %E7%D0%AC&in=19833&cl=2&lm=-1&pn=8&rn=1&di=26247538500&ln=2000&fr=&fmq=&i c=&s=0&se=&sme=0&tab=&width=&height=&face=&is=&istype=2>. "Baidu Zhidao ." Baidu. Baidu, n.d. Web. 14 Mar. 2011. <http://zhidao.baidu.com/question/ 54972296>. "Chinese Opera Mask, Guan Yu ." Paul and Bernice Noll Website . N.p., n.d. Web. 17 Mar. 2011. <http://www.paulnoll.com/China/Opera/color-red.html>. "Peking Opera Fu Zhuang." China Cart. N.p., n.d. Web. 17 Mar. 2011. <http://news.at0086.com/ UserFiles/fuzhuang.jpg>. Video: “BaWangBieJi”.Youku. 16 Mar.2011. <http://v.youku.com/v_show/id_XMjQxMzM5MjQ=.html>. Books: Mackerras, Colin. Chinese Theater: From Its Origins to the Present Day. Hawaii: University of Hawaii Press, 1998. Print. Xu, ChengBei. Peking Opera (Cultural Chinese Series). Beijing: China Intercontinental Press, 2003. Print. Jessica Wu Peking Opera Costumes Research, Page 9