1. “Did Mr.
Beene
change
your
life?”
Alber Elbaz and I are sitting at a cor-
ner table in the Mercer Kitchen; it’s
the height of Saturday brunch, and
it seems that the ultra-hip Soho hotel
rests at the crossroads of the world,
given how many people are stop-
ping by to greet the designer, highly
recognizable thanks to his cherubic,
teddy-bear looks. I’m always a little
delighted by this dichotomy, the
notion of this sweet, huggable man
who creates some of the most intel-
lectual, artful clothes one can view
on a runway today.
Elbaz has helmed Lanvin as its
creative director since 2001, and
during his tenure has quite literally
transformed the historic Paris house
into one of the world’s most sought- Runway styles from Lanvin’s
after labels, a feat to which only a Fall/Winter 2010 collection
handful of other designers—Lager-
feld, Galliano, Ghesquière—can
attest. Add in the rhapsodic reviews
Deconstructing
from editors—“genius” and “tri-
umph” are two words oft-applied to planned network of delicate black Israeli-raised Elbaz had emigrated 8:45 in the morning, I was there for
Alber
his current Fall collection—and it’s straps layered with a gossamer fab- to the US in 1987). “America was the interview, and 10 minutes later
clear the 48-year-old Elbaz enjoys ric I have not yet identified. “Oh, I very good to me, but after a couple Mr. Beene hired me.”
a sort of Teflon reputation at pres- remember this dress—horsehair and of years, I thought, My dream is not How spontaneous was Elbaz’s
ent, all the more remarkable when tulle,” he says, drawing the last word fulfilled; is this why I came here?” he appointment? Consider that ini-
you consider that for several seasons out slowly, as though recalling that remembers. “Then I was introduced tially he didn’t have a desk or, for
he has led the charge in chang- particular design in his mind’s eye. to someone who introduced me to that matter, any definable work-
ing the consumer mind-set about a “This was 1995, yes, while I was someone else who said they were space. “They didn’t have a place
garment’s construction and its over- with Mr. Beene. I worked with him looking for a designer for Gucci. But for me, so they put me in this little
arching modernity. Which makes on this dress.” after a few minutes she said, ‘No, dressing room, which was really a
the question extremely relevant: It’s difficult to envision a designer Alber, you have to work for Geoffrey closet,” he remembers. “Later they
“Did Mr. Beene change your more celebrated in the 1990s for Beene.’ And that was Dawn Mello, moved me into the studio, and then
life?” both his keen artistry and technical who had been president of Bergdorf a month later Mr. Beene moved me
I’ve pulled up a photo on my iPod, skill than Geoffrey Beene; no one and at this point was with Gucci. I with him into his office. So for seven
and Elbaz’s face softens as he looks knew this more than Elbaz, who had said, ‘Miss Mello, I’ve tried calling, years I was next to him.”
He’s the intellectual behind one of the world’s most forward-thinking labels, at the image, which highlights the
sinewy back of a model, her alabas-
been toiling away in a mother-of-the-
bride house during his first two years
and I can’t get past the receptionist.’
It was a Monday evening, and she
It was here that Elbaz honed his
craft, learning from the master
but is Lanvin’s Alber Elbaz really a romantic at heart? ter skin adorned with a meticulously in New York (the Moroccan-born, made a phone call; by Tuesday at of fit, cut and drape. Those early
By l a u r i e b r o o k i n s
oceandrive.com 187

2. Lanvin
Ladies
photographs by theo wargo/ wireimage.com (portman); mike marsland/ wireimage.com (tautou, kruger); steve granitz / wireimage.com (byrne)
the store when we were still in our
temporary location, and he under-
stood immediately that we wanted
to make high fashion accessible,
that we didn’t want to create a
museum. And what he creates
isn’t just the perfect idea of what
a French woman would wear, or
that ideal femininity that appeals
to our Latin-American clientele.
It’s just like no other brand. He’s
very special.”
With Lanvin, Elbaz indeed has
been the soul of a house that has
seen formidable growth during
his nine-year tenure. “Our whole-
sale business was quite weak when
I started. I think we sold to 12 Natalie Portman
stores; today we sell in more than
480,” he says. “We worked really
hard on that. We are not a small
house, but we are not a big house,
either. I always say we are kind of Audrey Tautou
The finale of Lanvin’s Fall/Winter 2010 showing
human-sized, but we don’t have
the red phone to pick up and say,
‘Daddy, we need some cash.’” responsibility to also make it hap- comes without a hint of artifice or
Stand-alone boutiques and the pen for them. So every move we guile only makes Elbaz more of
addition of a men’s collection like- make is very calculated. We never a rock star in the eyes of editors
wise have been among the label’s jump too high or too fast, and we and consumers alike. He recalls
From left, Ouloulette satin
pochette from Lanvin’s focus in recent years. London and work very hard.” recently asking his longtime
Fall/Winter collection; Shanghai locations have done Thierry Andretta smiles when partner, Alex Koo, who is also
feather dressing on exceptionally well, even as they he hears this; the Lanvin CEO has Lanvin’s director of market-
the runway
opened during the height of the stopped at the table for a moment, ing, whether Koo thought they
retail implosion of 2008 and ’09. having just returned from purchas- were still cool. “He said, ‘Alber,
influences remain much in evi- For Lanvin’s first US location, it’s ing vintage-inspired Mickey Mouse we were never cool,’” Elbaz
dence in Elbaz’s Fall collection, in “Alber succeeds because notable that the entry point was Bal T-shirts from a nearby Uniqlo. recalls. “So I asked, ‘What am
the matte stretch suits, seemingly Harbour, which opened its doors Andretta won’t debate Elbaz’s mod- I?’ and [Alex] said, ‘You’re
molded to create volume around he loves women. he last winter: Though it was partly an esty for one moment, and doesn’t relevant.’”
the shoulders and then tapering issue of simple timing—one retail hesitate when asked what’s at the Elbaz quickly realized
down through the hips; in the exqui- wants them to feel site becoming ready even as other heart of Lanvin’s success. “I think he was satisfied by such an
site, toga-like drape of a pleated
dress that is wholly modern, even elegant, a little cities were still being strategized—
the decision was aided largely
Alber succeeds simply because he
loves women,” Andretta says. “In
answer. “To be cool also
means to be cold to me,” he
as it evokes some of the notions
conjured by Jeanne Lanvin in the sensual, not too sexy.” by sales at The Webster, which
solidified Lanvin’s belief that an
every ready-to-wear piece, every
shoe or piece of jewelry, you feel
explains. “Being relevant today
means you understand a woman’s
1920s; and in the origami-esque audience was ready in Miami. that he loves women, he wants lifestyle, that you have found a way
folds of fabric that flutter down heart so divinely, chicly simple. wanted to tell you, everything I Subsequent US locations have them to feel elegant, comfort- to mix the fantasy and the reality
Diane Kruger
from a one-shoulder sheath—sleek Elbaz understands immediately know, you taught me.’ And it’s opened in Las Vegas and, most able, a little sensual, not too sexy. together and make it work for her.
pieces all, punctuated by tribal- that it is a compliment of the high- true. Did he change my life? Yes, recently, in New York on Madison You perceive it immediately.” Fashion design is not art, because
like statement necklaces sporting est order when I remark that I see he did. He’s the one.” Avenue this past summer. That such a talent art must be pure fantasy; in design Rose Byrne
feathers and medallions. These him in the dress still displayed on “Alber is simply a very kind, Elbaz has been key to each of you have to go with the rational and
are clothes that are as powerful as my iPod, while I see Mr. Beene very generous, very talented man,” these decisions. “I don’t feel a the emotional, and somehow in
they are feminine, sophisticated in the clothes he produces to this says Laure Hériard Dubreuil, responsibility just from an artistic the middle, they mix. This is pure
not merely because their intricacy day. “I remember a week before he cofounder of The Webster, the point of view,” he says. “But to do design.” OD
is sometimes quite dazzling, but died [in 2004], I called him,” Elbaz Collins Avenue retail destination a good collection also means that
Black python three-strap bootie from Lanvin’s
because upon closer inspection you recalls. “I told him, ‘Mr. Beene, that has carried Lanvin since it the people supporting my dream Fall/Winter collection. All items pictured available
realize many of them are at their I’m going to be so corny, but I just was founded in 2007. “He came to will have a good salary. It’s a huge at Bal Harbour Shops, 9700 Collins Ave.; lanvin.com
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