National Geographic Traveller India March 2013 Issue - One of the Photos clicked by me published on the slide 2/2 top right photo

1. Short break
From Bengaluru Kasargod
Unseen Sands 3
+ AYS
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Hike up an 18th-century fort or visit an old, working lighthouse in Kasargod | By Natasha Sahgal
E
veryone I meet in the district tells me backdrop for scenes from the recently released
that Kasargod’s Bekal Fort is famous movie, David. While these film connections do
as the location where Mani Ratnam’s give the otherwise sleepy sites a brief flash
song “Tu Hi Re” was shot. The of fame, the area’s family-friendly, white sand
The sea fort of Bekal was built in the beaches, blue waters and coconut tree-lined beaches are better reasons to spend some
17th century. roads around the region also served as the time in the scenic location. Kasargod is the
northernmost district of Kerala, sharing a
border with Karnataka. To the north are the
Kannadiga cities of Mangalore and Udupi, and
to the south is the entire Kerala coastline.
Though Malayalam is the administrative
language of the district, everyone in the town
(including my car driver) insists that Beary,
Tulu, Kannada, Konkani, Marathi and Urdu are during the day and, unusually, a beach park
just as frequently heard in Kasargod. Those are (entry `10) with clean showers and changing
a lot of languages for a small town. rooms. Horse-carriage rides, swings, as well
Kasargod is the sort of place where shops as occasional magic, music, and dance shows
close for the afternoon, and it can be hard to keep children entertained while adults lounge
find anything apart from a rice plate, or thali, on chairs on the shore. Restaurants here serve
for meals. The placid pace of life is part of its up Indian and Chinese dishes.
charm. There isn’t much to do in the town
Beaches There are plenty of small beaches
South India Picture/IndiaPicture (Houseboat), natasha sahgal (lighthouse, staircase), AJISH KB (Ananthapura Lake Temple)
but its close proximity with many beaches,
temples, forts, and hills makes Kasargod a to explore near Kasargod. The Kappil Beach
good base, from which to explore this district. (12 km), Pallikere Beach (17 km) and Bekal
Fort Beach (16 km) are all clean stretches of
shore a short distance from town. For those
EXPLORE who fancy driving, Muzhappilangad (100 km)
is said to be Asia’s longest drive-on beach, and
Bekal Fort The fort (10 km south of offers a rare experience of driving on sand for
Kasargod town centre) is spread over 40 acres 4 km. For a day trip, head to Kaup (90 km)
and has a water tank, tunnels, an observatory, and Malpe (110 km) near Udupi. Kaup has an
Houseboats (top left) can be hired for overnight trips around the backwaters of Kasargod; The
and well-manicured lawns. It’s so huge, it’s impressive lighthouse and a few restaurants. view from the top of the lighthouse (top right) in Kaup has crescent shaped beaches next to green
joyfully confusing trying to decide which of It is especially peaceful during the evenings, forests; Ananthapura temple’s (above) idol is made with Ayurvedic herbs and coconut shells.
the many paths to take. As it turns out, most when a few stalls selling freshly fried fish
of them lead to the central tower, the top of and peanuts are open for business. Note,
which offers fascinating views of the towns of the waves are dangerous and swimming is
Kasargod and Kanhangad. It also has views of not recommended. Malpe, the neighbouring UNIQUE EXPERIENCE
the golden sand and waves beating against the beach, is completely different. It usually has a Inside a working lighthouse
wall of the fort. Most visitors eventually park lot of visitors, food stalls, and facilities offering
themselves at one of the exits to have a lunch water sports such as speed boats, parasailing, The lighthouse on Kaup beach is open
picnic or just laze around. The walk from one banana boats and jet skiing. A ferry (`60 for for visitors between 4-6 p.m. It costs
end of the fort to another will probably take a 30 minutes) tranports visitors from Malpe `10 to enter and only four to five visitors
couple of hours so be sure to wear a good pair to St. Mary’s Island, which is known for are allowed at a time. To reach the top,
of shoes. Keyhole-shaped windows offer pretty its clusters of distinctive, pillar-like rock travellers must remove their footwear,
views of the ocean. The walk involves some formations that rise out of the sea. promise to be silent inside and then,
slopes, steps, and even a cluster of rocks that climb nearly a hundred steps, carved shoreline that extends as far as the
adventurous visitors can clamber over. Others A Temple and an Island A quick in rock. The walk up is best avoided cities of Mangalore and Udupi, is
can walk around on the sand. 12-km drive away, is the ninth-century by those afraid of heights, as the spiral worth the trudge up. The lighthouse
Adjacent to the fort is a stretch of well- Ananthapura Lake Temple, which locals claim stairs are steep and can make one keeper acts as a guide and proudly points
Dinodia photo
maintained beach, half of which is occupied by is the only lake temple in India. Legend has it dizzy. The view from the top of the out to the new computerised mechanism
slim, colourful fishing boats. The rest is open that there is only one crocodile in this lake and glimmering ocean, sandy beach and that activates the flashing light.
for swimming. There is a lifeguard on duty when it dies, a new one mysteriously appears.
170 national Geographic Traveller INDIA | march 2013 march 2013 | national Geographic Traveller INDIA 171

2. Short break
From Bengaluru Kasargod
Valiyaparamba beach with its soft sand and stretches of swaying coconut palms is a loner’s paradise.
Hotel City Tower This is another basic hotel homestay and it feels more like a a friend’s The Lalit Resort and Spa, Bekal A resort
located right next to the bus stop, a short walk house than a hotel. The host family prepares and spa spread between the beaches and
from Kasargod town centre. This is a simple, traditional Malabar cuisine for their guests backwaters of Kasargod, this is only a
practical option for short stays and the staff is and organises day trips to Bekal Fort, nearby short walk from Bekal Fort and beach. The
helpful (04994-230562; doubles `1,500). beaches, and can also arrange a visit to backwaters flowing through the property
FOTOSEARCH RM/Dinodia (Birds and, dancer), FOTOSEARCH RM/Dinodia (Birds and, dancer), Rajesh Vijayarajan Photography/Flickr/
theyyam performances (www.gitanjaliheritage. are beautiful enough to keep visitors lazing
Priyanka Varma (beach), urmimala nag (map)
Comfort com; 0467-2234159; doubles `3,000). inside the resort (0467-2237777; doubles
Nirvana @Bekal A few steps from Bekal from `10,000, includes meals).
Fort, these cottages are just a 100 metre-walk Luxury Vivanta by Taj, Bekal This is a luxurious
from the beach. The secluded location works Neeleshwar Hermitage This resort has plush, getaway by the backwaters. The hotel lawns
well for those who want a quiet holiday by the spacious cottages and a stretch of empty are lavish and end where the soft sand of
sea. Rooms are small but clean and food is beach in front of it. Rooms have modern Kappil beach begin. The hotel also organises
local and fresh (www.nirvanabekal.com; 0467- amenities including an iPod docking station visits to spice plantations, along with boating,
227290; doubles `3,500). (www.neeleshwarhermitage.com; 0467-2287510; kayaking, trekking and fishing trips (0467-
Geetanjali Heritage Ten years ago, this doubles `12,000 including breakfast and a 6616612; www.vivantabytaj.com; doubles
65-year-old home was converted into a yoga session). from `10,000). n
THE GUIDE
Orientation runs through Kasargod. Roads
Kasargod is the northernmost are generally in pretty good Ananthapura
Birds like egrets (top left) are often found wading in paddy fields, looking for small frogs, insects and crustaceans; A dancer (top right) dressed in a
Getty images (green hills), Olaf Krüger/imagebrok/Dinodia (fort)
Lake Temple
peacock-inspired costume gets ready to perform in front of Bekal Fort; The green hills (bottom left) around Bekal are great for leisurely walks; The district of Kerala and shares condition in and around town.
seaside fort of Bekal stands tall against waves (bottom right) that lash its walls. a boundary with Karnataka.
This guardian crocodile, named Babia, is so renting a boat from Kasargod and cruising There are buses from Kanhagad to Panathady,
It is around 380 km west of Season Kasargod Beach
Bengaluru. March to June is hot with
believed to be vegetarian, and survives only on around the backwaters to the island (`250 per from where jeeps can be hired to get to Kappil Beach
afternoon temperatures often
offerings of prasad made of rice and jaggery. hour) is a better option. Ranipuram (`350). Bekal Fort
crossing 40°C. Reserve beach
The secluded island of Valiyaparamba Getting there
walks for early mornings and Pallikere Beach
(30 km south of Kasargod) is full of stony Hills and hikes The rainforest-filled hills Air Mangalore is the closest
airport (60 km) from Kasargod. late evening during this time of
beaches and green backwaters. There are of Kottancheri (30 km) are popular for short STAY year. June to August has heavy
There are daily flights from
only a handful of tourist houseboats here so hikes in the Kottancheri Wildlife Sanctuary rains but the hills and fort are
Bengaluru, Mumbai, and
the water is still empty and peaceful. Many and have several picnic spots along the way. Budget Chennai. Hire a taxi from the green. November to February
water taxis operate to ferry locals. Those who The Veeramala Hills in Cheruvathur (50 km) Apsara Regency This centrally-located budget airport to Kasargod (`1,500). brings in a cool breeze with an
aren’t renting a houseboat could hail a water have the ruins of an 18th-century Dutch fort hotel, one kilometre from Kasargod railway Rail Several trains from Mumbai, average temperature of 20°C Valiyaparamba Beach
taxi for a ride along the river (`10-100 for the on the top of the hill. Ranipuram (65 km) is station, has air-conditioned rooms, hot water, Chennai, Delhi, and Bengaluru for most of the day, save for a
TO bengaluru
water taxis and `6,000 for a houseboat for one a hill station with a trekking trail up dense attached bathrooms, and a travel desk. Small halt at Kasargod station. couple of hours around noon,
night). There is a bridge from the mainland to forests to grassy hills. The trails are well- and simple, it is best suited for the budget Road The NH17 (Mumbai- Kochi) which are hot and humid.
the island but the roads are small and rough marked and a large section has steps too. conscious (04994-230124; doubles `800).
172 national Geographic Traveller INDIA | march 2013 march 2013 | national Geographic Traveller INDIA 173