1. PRIYANK GOYAL’S LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE
Copyrights Reserved with Priyank Goyal ,
pg2000in@gmail.com, pg2000in.googlepages.com
Huckaback weaves
In Huckaback weaves, the structure is so arranged that
there are two areas.
1. Area of plain weave gives firmness and hard wearing
quality.
2. Area of loose float provides good moisture pickup.
This weave is largely used for linen and cotton towels,
glass cloths etc.
How to draw ordinary Huckaback
Let us make a Huckaback weave on 10 ends and 6 picks.
Step 1: Make a 10 end and 6 pick grid and divide the grid into
four equal parts.
Step 2: Draw the following motif in the lower left part.
Step 3: Drawing it in lower left corner, it will become:
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2. PRIYANK GOYAL’S LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE
Copyrights Reserved with Priyank Goyal ,
pg2000in@gmail.com, pg2000in.googlepages.com
Step 4: Copy the same motif in the upper right corner
Step 5: Now fill the remaining two parts with plain weave
How to draw the Revesible Huckaback
Let us make a reversible Huckaback on 10 ends and 8
picks.
Step 1: Make a 10-end and 8-pick grid
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3. PRIYANK GOYAL’S LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE
Copyrights Reserved with Priyank Goyal ,
pg2000in@gmail.com, pg2000in.googlepages.com
Step 2: The motif size will be
+1
2
picksof.No
+1
2
picksof.No
+= 1
2
8
+1
2
8
x =5x5
Let us make this motif on 5x5 in the lower left corner of the
grid.
Motif
Copying this motif on the lower left corner of the grid we have
Step 3
Now copy this motif on the upper right corner of grid but with
weft up we represent it by o.
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4. PRIYANK GOYAL’S LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE
Copyrights Reserved with Priyank Goyal ,
pg2000in@gmail.com, pg2000in.googlepages.com
Here in the upper right corner the weft up is indicated by o
and warp up is indicated by blank spaces.
Step 4:
To make it truly reversible, we shift the motif in the upper
right hand corner by one pick. Thus our grid will look like.
Step 5: Now we fill the remaining portion with plain weave (o)
and complete the design.
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5. PRIYANK GOYAL’S LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE
Copyrights Reserved with Priyank Goyal ,
pg2000in@gmail.com, pg2000in.googlepages.com
Grecian weave: it is a type of Huckaback weave
How to construct Grecian weave Let us make a Grecian
weave on 12 ends and 12 picks.
Step 1: Make a grid representing 12 ends and 12 picks and
divide it into 4 equal parts.
Step 2 : Now draw the following motif into lower left corner of
the grid.
Drawing in the lower left corner of the grid we have
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6. PRIYANK GOYAL’S LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE
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Step 3: Copy the motif in the upper right corner as:
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7. PRIYANK GOYAL’S LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE
Copyrights Reserved with Priyank Goyal ,
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Step 4: Now copy the motif in the other two corners but with
weft up on the motif part. We represent it by o and warp up by
x.
Step 5: Now to make the weave truly reversible, shift the motif
in the lower right corner up by one pick and to the left side by
one end and shift the motif in the upper left corner down by
one pick and to the right by one end. Thus we have
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8. PRIYANK GOYAL’S LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE
Copyrights Reserved with Priyank Goyal ,
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Step 6: Now replace (o) by blanks to represent weft up.
Step 7: Now fill the remaining portion with plain weave and
complete the design.
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9. PRIYANK GOYAL’S LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE
Copyrights Reserved with Priyank Goyal ,
pg2000in@gmail.com, pg2000in.googlepages.com
MOCK-LENO WEAVE
These weaves produce effects that are similar in
appearance in the gauge or leno styles.
How to construct A simple Mock Leno Weave
Let us make a mock leno weave on 10 ends and 6 picks.
Step 1: Prepare a grid representing 10 ends and 6 picks and
divide it into four parts.
Step 2: Copy the following motif in the lower left quarter of the
grid.
Copying in the grid we get:
Step 3: Now copy this motif in the upper right quarter of the
grid.
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10. PRIYANK GOYAL’S LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE
Copyrights Reserved with Priyank Goyal ,
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Step 4: Now fill the remaining quarters with a weave that work
exactly opposite to the weave chosen for motif. It means where
in the motif there is warp up [a (x) mark], you replace it with
weft up (a blank mark) and where there is a blank in the
motif, replace it with a (x) in the remaining quarters, thus we
have:
This completes the weave.
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