Hanno Doenz Environmental Practices of the International Federation of Mountain Guides. The foundation, history, and options in a mountain guide’s daily work vary widely across IFMGA member countries worldwide. Originally the IFMGA (a.k.a. UIAGM) started in Alpine countries, where there are few spaces without paths, cable cars, mountain huts, roads, and/or ski stations. Then the IFMGA expanded to North America where there are very structured regulations, especially in the national parks. Now the IFMGA also covers the very remote mountain ranges in South America and Central Asia. Due to this great variety, the work and the education of mountain guides has to follow diverse approaches to sustainability. Yet the goal is the same all over the world: to conserve the mountain areas for future generations, bearing in mind that these regions are also the base for the furtherance professional guiding. Hanno Doenz, a former teacher and Austrian mountain guide for over 25 years, has been a member of the board of the guides’ association. In his two years as president of the IFMGA, his responsibility is to organize and coordinate guide education worldwide.

1. Sustainable Summits Conference
Golden, CO July 2014
Willkommen!
Bienvenue!
Welcome!
Bienvenido!
08/01/2017 IFMGA HD

2. Different approaches to sustainability in the
education and daily work of mountain guides
Willkommen!
Bienvenue!
Welcome!
Bienvenido!
08/01/2017 IFMGA HD

3. IFMGA – who we are
IFMGA – UIAGM – IVBV
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4. IFMGA – who we are
IFMGA – UIAGM – IVBV
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IFMGA
International Federation of
Mountain Guides
Associations

5. IFMGA – who we are
IFMGA – UIAGM – IVBV
A short explanation of our organisation
• Founded 1965 in Switzerland by CH, F, I and A guides
• Common platform for the guides education
• Common platform of skills for certified guides
• Common Code of Professional Conduct
• Providing access to mountain areas and reciprocity
rights for working in all member countries
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6. IFMGA – who we are
IFMGA – UIAGM – IVBV
Our “working place” – the mountains
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7. IFMGA – who we are
IFMGA – UIAGM – IVBV
Rockclimbing
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8. IFMGA – who we are
IFMGA – UIAGM – IVBV
Iceclimbing
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9. IFMGA – who we are
IFMGA – UIAGM – IVBV
High alpine climbing
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10. IFMGA – who we are
IFMGA – UIAGM – IVBV
Freeriding and skitouring
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11. IFMGA – who we are
IFMGA – UIAGM – IVBV
Trekking and expeditions
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12. IFMGA – who we are
IFMGA – UIAGM – IVBV
2014
23 full members worldwide + 5 aspirants countries
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13. IFMGA – who we are
IFMGA – UIAGM – IVBV
our aims for the next years
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• Guarantee highest quality level in education and certification of new guides
• Force current professional development programs for certified guides
• Help interested countries to develope their autonomous programs in training
and certifying guides and joining then the IFMGA
• Assist national guides associations in legal standing in their countries,
regarding recognition of their certifications, acces to work in the mountains
(eg national parks…) and giving reciprocal rights to other IFMGA guides
• Assist all associations in developing sustainable practises in guides
education and everyday working

14. Sustainability
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In his everyday work the mountain guide will always be in a
tension field between sustainable practise and economic needs
So the goal will be, to find a compromise to preserve the
mountains also as a working field for future generations

15. Sustainability
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Different
approaches to
sustainability
Social
aspects
Daily guides
work
Environmental
aspects
Education of
guides

16. Sustainability. Current projects
08/01/2017 IFMGA HD
Social aspects:
training aid in
developing
countries
example:
Nepal
Train the local guides on
the highest level
Autonomy in training
and administration
Chance of a better
income, insurance,
selfconfidence…
example:
Eastern Europe
Trying to get them
together in one
trainingsystem
example:
South America
Train the trainers
improving quality of
existing systems

17. Sustainability. Current projects
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Environment:
Part of our ethic
code for
professional
guiding
The Alps
Regulations in National and
Regional laws, Political influence
Curricula in the different national
training systems
Part of the current professional
development programs
North America
Highly regulated systems in
National Parks
Cooperation with AMGA and
ACMG, contacts to National Park
Services in USA + CAN
remote mountain
aereas
South America, Asia..
Guides education and developing
common rules for guides work
Cooperation with guides
Association and governments,
National Parks..

18. IFMGA Code of Professional Conduct
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• Article 4. Environment. A Guide encourages respect for the environment
through advice and personal example.
• Article 6. Field of Competence.
• A Guide’s Field of Competence includes the core skills of all mountain
disciplines in all seasons, in all environments, worldwide; on foot, ski or
snowboard; the climbing of rock, snow and ice indoors and out; and related
activities carried out in other industries associated with and appropriate to a
Guide’s skills and training
• A Guide advises, coaches, instructs and leads clients
• Article 7. General Obligations. A Guide upholds the status of the
profession and is mindful of the consequent obligations and issues of
professional integrity at all times.
• Article 10. Ratios. When working with clients, a Guide decides the
appropriate number of participants taking into account safety, the terms of the
engagement, any customs as to ratios, and any regulation or legislation
observed by local guides. Where it exists, the established practice of local
IFMGA Guides is followed.
This Code of Professional Conduct outlines the roles and obligations of a
Mountain Guide in the execution of his/her profession.
Our ethic rules for guiding

19. Sustainable guiding in the Alps
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Problems of to much touristic development – industry of mass tourism
Guiding is just a very small part – lack of political influence
Startingpoint for sustainable guiding in the alps

20. Sustainable guiding in the Alps
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Guiding is regulated by law in most
alpine Countries
Only certified guides are allowed to guide
education and certification is ruled by governments
on the base of the common platform of the IFMGA
Sustainable practice in guiding is forced and controlled by law
and is part of curricula and CPD. High standard is granted by
the competent authorities and the guides associations.
Guides have to obey the rules and are accepted therefore in all
different countries for their professional work and their care for
security of the clients and for the environment

21. Sustainable guiding in the Alps
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• Gesetz über das Bergführerwesen (Bergführergesetz)
LGBl.Nr. 54/2002, 27/2005, 15/2006, 12/2010
•1. Abschnitt Allgemeine Bestimmungen
•§ 11) Geltungsbereich
• (1) Dieses Gesetz regelt die Tätigkeit als Führer und Begleiter bei Bergtouren und Canyoning-Touren (Schluchtentouren) sowie die
Erteilung von Unterricht in den für Bergtouren und Canyoning-Touren erforderlichen Fertigkeiten und Kenntnissen.
•(2) Dieses Gesetz gilt nicht für
•a) das Führen, Begleiten und Unterrichten, wie es gelegentlich üblicherweise ohne jede Art von Entgelt im Familien- und Freundeskreis
erfolgt,
•b) dienstliche Tätigkeiten im Bundesheer, bei Wachkörpern und anerkannten Rettungsorganisationen,
•c) das Führen, Begleiten und Unterrichten von Schulen durch fachlich befähigte Lehrkräfte und das Führen, Begleiten und Unterrichten
im Rahmen der Fortbildung von Lehrern,
•d) die Tätigkeit von Schischulen,
• ….
• § 2 Begriffe
•(1) Im Sinne dieses Gesetzes ist
• a) Bergführer, wer berechtigt ist, sich als Führer oder Begleiter bei Bergtouren (einschließlich Schitouren) zu betätigen,
• b) Canyoning-Führer, wer berechtigt ist, sich als Führer oder Begleiter bei Canyoning-Touren zu betätigen,
• c) Wanderführer, wer berechtigt ist, sich als Führer oder Begleiter bei Bergtouren gemäß § 28 zu betätigen,
• d) Bergsteigerschule eine Einrichtung für den Unterricht in den für Bergtouren und Canyoning-Touren erforderlichen Fertigkeiten und
Kenntnissen einschließlich des Schibergsteigens
• ….
• .§ 502)
• Strafen
•(1) Eine Übertretung begeht, wer
• sich als Führer oder Begleiter bei Bergtouren oder bei Canyoning-Touren betätigt, ohne nach diesem Gesetz hiezu berechtigt zu sein,
• einer Aufforderung nach § 1 Abs. 3 nicht nachkommt,
• sich entgegen dem § 3 als Bergführer, entgegen dem § 21 als Canyoning-Führer oder entgegen dem § 29 als Wanderführer ausgibt,
• als Bergführer einer Verpflichtung gemäß den §§ 9 Abs. 2, 10 Abs. 1 und 2, 12 Abs. 2 und 3, 13, 14 Abs. 1, 17 Abs. 4 oder 18 nicht
entspricht,
• ….
Examples for laws regulating guiding – Austria
Mountain guides law
Who is a Mountain guide?
Fines for illegal guiding
Fines for Mountain guides
not obeying the law…

22. Sustainable guiding in the Alps
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• he explores, respects and preserves the mountainous terrain and follows the
administrative and legal restrictions which concern the area.
• he attends actions which support the mountaineering activities, especially
concerning the use of the mountainous terrain. This happens in collaboration
with the responsible offices, which are for example the public authorities,
partner institutions and recognized associations with a public use.
• he conceives, manages, installs, assesses and plans the use of the areas for
mountaineering and its related activities, especially of climbing areas. This
happens in close collaboration with the public authorities, partner institutions
and associations.
• he sensitizes the public concerning the respect towards the mountainous
area.
• he promotes mountaineering and its related activities taking care of the
respect towards the mountainous area.
• he consults different people concerning the specific equipment, be it personal
or collective, permanently installed or mobile.
Examples for laws regulating sustainable guiding – France
Duties of a guide

23. Sustainable guiding in the Alps
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Examples for curricula in sustainable guiding –
Switzerland: Part of the training program
Contents of the education in the subjects
concerning Nature, Environment and
sustainable Practise
Duration of this modules and
Examination for obtaininmg the diploma

24. Sustainable guiding in the Alps
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Options for success in the future of
our work as guides in the alps
Following the rules of guiding, especially in sensible regions like national
parks and natural conservation areas. Using our educational influence
also with clients in regarding low ratios, avoiding unnecessary individual
traffic, non entering restricted zones…
Forcing special modules in education and CPD of guides to raise
awareness that we have to conserve the mountain areas for future
generations, bearing in mind that these regions are also the base for the
furtherance professional guiding.
Cooperation with Alpine clubs and other NGOs to gain political influence
in stopping further demolition of alpine nature with power plants, ski
stations, roads…

25. 08/01/2017 IFMGA HD
Problem for guides: Almost all interesting areas for guiding in USA or Canada are
in National Parks and very strict rules prevent the work of IFMGA guides there.
Startingpoint for sustainable guiding in Northamerica
Sustainable guiding in Northamerica

26. Sustainable guiding in Northamerica
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Different Situation for guiding in
North America
No regulations about education and certification of guides by law. Very
strict regulations about mountaneering in general and especially for
access to guiding in National Parks
A good base for conservation of sensible Nature throughout long
experience of National Park services. Also a perfect base for cooperation
with national and international guides associations.
A chance also for guides, prooving that they are not typical commercial
users of the nature but stand for for environmental stewardship and
wilderness ethics. Scott Massey will tell us more about the US guiding.

27. Sustainable guiding in Northamerica
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Options for success in the future of
our work as guides in N-America
Cooperation with the national guides associations AMGA and ACMG to
learn more about the regulations of gaining acces to work in these
sensible regions. Perhaps coming also to reciprocity right in future.
Cooperation and Collaboration with US and Canadian National Park
Services to achieve possibilities for international certified mountain
guides to guide also in National parks (eg the IFMGA expedition
workshop on Denali 2013)
Issue of international guidelines for curricula in guides training and CPD
about guiding in remote areas and parks following results of the Denali
expedition workshop 2013

28. 08/01/2017 IFMGA HD
Problem: no reliable structures at all, no regulations, no consciousness about
environmental and sustainable practises
Startingpoint for sustainable guiding in remote mountain areas
Sustainable guiding in remote
mountain areas (S-America, Asia…)
Money rules…

29. 08/01/2017 IFMGA HD
Different Situation for guiding in
remote mountain areas
Consolidation of existing structures: Peru is improving the education
standard with help from IFMGA, sustainable practise in training helped to
achieve access for all IFMGA guides to Huascaran National Park
Setup of new strucures: Nepal is an IFMGA member country since three
years, that helps to achieve sutainability for Nepalese guides in
environmental practises and better social structures for the guides, not
being so much dependent of commercial companies in future.
Setup of new structures: we are working together with some interested
countries (Kyrgistan, Ecuador…) who want to reach the high level for
certifying guides in future. We have the responsibility to teach them the
importance of sustainable structures.
Sustainable guiding in remote
mountain areas (S-America, Asia…)

30. 08/01/2017 IFMGA HD
Chances for future guiding in
countries with no or low structures
Every IFMGA guide working at trekkings and expeditions in these
countries has the high responsibility to show the difference between the
professional work of certified guides and others and should have the
consciousness of being an example for all other mountaineers.
All national guides associations have to use the manual for expedition
and trekking for teaching their guides in sustainable practises for guiding
trekkings and expeditions, special CPD has been set up for guides
working on trekking and expedition in extreme environment.
The IFMGA commisions has to help local guides organisations in
developing sustainable structures for training new guides and administer
the institution of a guides association. Giving them the aid for setting up
autonomous work on high standard.
Sustainable guiding in remote
mountain areas (S-America, Asia…)

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Common structures for teaching in guides education and CPD:
The IFMGA manual for trekking and expedition
Sustainable guiding in remote
mountain areas (S-America, Asia…)

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Environmental travel is an important part of this manual
Sustainable guiding in remote
mountain areas (S-America, Asia…)

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Conclusion
Coming from very different mountain ranges all over the world, the
IFMGA certified mountain guides and their association follow very
different approaches to environmental practises in their education and
their everyday work with clients in the mountains.
The work of mountain guides is different to other commercial users of the
alpine environment. The guides can never be part of mass tourism
industry and he has to be a model for his clients and all other
mountaineers in his behavior in the sensitive mountain aereas.
Yet the goal has to be the same all over the world. We have to conserve
the mountain areas for future generations, bearing in mind that these
regions are also the base for the furtherance professional guiding.
Sustainable guiding

34. 08/01/2017 IFMGA HD
Thanks
In the name of all IFMGA guides organisations i want to thank the
organisators of the sustainable summits conference to give me a possibility
to present the guides view to sustainable practisíng in guides work.
Thanks to all of you helping together to conserve the beautyness of the
mountains for future generations.
Sustainable guiding