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Construc)ng 
a 
Cold 
Frame 
Permaculture 
Build 
Project 
Cayce 
Lee 
Fall 
2010
• The 
simplest 
way 
to 
improve 
growing 
condi)ons 
during 
cold 
weather 
is 
to 
find, 
create, 
or 
improve 
warm 
and 
sheltered 
spots. 
• Building 
a 
cold 
frame 
is 
an 
easy 
way 
to 
grow 
edibles 
during 
the 
winter, 
or 
to 
start 
plants 
from 
seeds 
in 
the 
spring.
• A 
What 
is 
a 
cold 
frame? 
cold 
frame 
is 
basically 
a 
box 
with 
a 
glass 
(or 
plas)c) 
top 
and 
no 
boIom 
that 
sits 
on 
the 
soil. 
• A 
cold 
frame 
lessens 
climac)c 
stress 
by 
affec)ng: 
– Temperature: 
a 
single 
layer 
of 
glass 
can 
increase 
the 
temperature 
inside 
the 
cold 
frame 
from 
between 
7-­‐20 
degrees. 
– Moisture: 
Less 
moisture 
on 
the 
plants 
means 
less 
stress 
from 
freezing. 
– Wind: 
Provides 
a 
windbreak 
for 
plants, 
removing 
the 
windchill 
factor.
Plants 
to 
Grow 
in 
a 
Cold 
Frame
Star)ng 
Seedlings 
• Cold 
frames 
can 
also 
serve 
as 
a 
greenhouse 
for 
star)ng 
seedlings. 
• Seedlings 
started 
in 
a 
cold 
frame 
are 
hardy 
because 
they 
are 
not 
ar)ficially 
heated. 
• 
Watering 
is 
also 
less 
important 
because 
the 
seedlings 
are 
connected 
to 
the 
earth 
and 
can’t 
dry 
out 
as 
quickly 
as 
they 
would 
in 
a 
flat.
Temperature 
Control 
• Keep 
a 
thermometer 
in 
the 
frame 
to 
monitor 
heat 
(on 
the 
soil 
is 
most 
accurate) 
• Vent 
excess 
heat 
out 
of 
the 
top 
by 
propping 
glass 
up 
• Aim 
for 
70 
degrees 
in 
the 
spring 
and 
60 
to 
65 
degrees 
in 
the 
fall 
“The 
ideal 
is 
to 
keep 
crops 
growing 
steadily 
in 
this 
protected 
environment, 
but 
not 
to 
overheat 
them. 
With 
cold 
frames, 
it 
is 
always 
beIer 
to 
err 
on 
the 
cool 
side 
and 
vent 
the 
frames 
excessively 
rather 
than 
to 
run 
them 
too 
warm. 
Very 
cold 
condi)ons 
are 
inevitable 
as 
winter 
arrives, 
and 
the 
so], 
succulent 
)ssues 
of 
plants 
that 
have 
been 
grown 
at 
too 
high 
temperatures 
will 
not 
be 
as 
hardy. 
Once 
winter 
arrives 
the 
system 
is 
basically 
dormant. 
Your 
winter 
food 
is 
not 
dependent 
on 
sunny 
weather 
for 
warmth 
because 
it 
is 
already 
grown. 
Cloudy 
days 
with 
frame 
temperatures 
in 
the 
30s 
and 
40s 
are 
fine. 
The 
cold 
nights 
are 
no 
problem, 
since 
the 
winter 
food 
plants 
don’t 
mind 
freezing. 
As 
long 
as 
the 
temperature 
in 
the 
plants 
gets 
above 
freezing 
every 
few 
days 
so 
the 
plants 
can 
thaw 
naturally 
before 
you 
harvest, 
all 
will 
be 
well.” 
-­‐Eric 
Coleman
Project 
Plan 
While 
you 
can 
make 
a 
cold 
frame 
with 
a 
level 
lid, 
an 
angled 
top 
is 
best 
for 
allowing 
maximum 
sunlight. 
The 
direc)ons 
I 
looked 
at 
suggested 
a 
depth 
of 
12 
inches 
for 
the 
front 
of 
the 
box 
and 
18 
inches 
for 
the 
back, 
so 
I 
tried 
to 
get 
close 
to 
those 
measurements 
with 
the 
reclaimed 
boards 
I 
used. 
The 
length 
of 
the 
sides 
were 
built 
to 
match 
the 
size 
of 
the 
window 
I 
used 
for 
my 
lid.
Materials 
and 
Tools 
Window 
for 
lid 
Reclaimed 
wood 
(2’x4’s) 
for 
sides 
1”x2” 
wood 
for 
side 
braces 
2 
hinges 
Handle 
Spray 
paint 
to 
paint 
handle 
Tools 
for 
cuhng 
wood 
(Mitre 
saw 
and 
bandsaw) 
Power 
drill 
and 
screws 
Hammer 
and 
nails 
Ruler 
Pencil
Step 
1 
Measure 
and 
cut 
the 
wood 
for 
the 
sides 
of 
your 
cold 
frame 
to 
match 
the 
dimensions 
of 
your 
top 
(window). 
Then 
use 
your 
1”x2”wood 
to 
cut 
braces 
to 
connect 
the 
boards 
together. 
(Angle 
the 
top 
edge 
of 
the 
braces 
for 
the 
back 
sides 
to 
accommodate 
the 
slope 
of 
the 
window.)
Step 
2 
Nail 
the 
wood 
boards 
for 
the 
front 
and 
back 
sides 
together 
using 
the 
wooden 
braces.
Nail 
the 
side 
boards 
to 
the 
front 
and 
back 
of 
the 
box, 
but 
only 
up 
to 
the 
height 
of 
the 
front 
side. 
Step 
3
Turn 
the 
box 
on 
its 
side 
with 
the 
window 
connec)ng 
the 
back 
to 
the 
front 
of 
the 
box 
and 
trace 
the 
correct 
angle 
to 
cut 
the 
remaining 
boards 
for 
the 
sides. 
Step 
4 
Cut 
the 
angled 
boards 
and 
nail 
to 
the 
back 
side 
of 
the 
box.
Step 
5 
Cut 
and 
nail 
more 
braces 
with 
the 
1”x2” 
wood 
for 
the 
sides. 
Be 
sure 
to 
angle 
the 
top 
edge 
to 
match 
the 
slope 
of 
the 
sides.
Step 
6 
Add 
triangular 
corner 
braces 
to 
stabilize 
structure 
of 
box.
Step 
7 
Screw 
hinges 
on 
onto 
the 
interior 
side 
of 
the 
window 
and 
the 
back 
of 
the 
box.
Step 
8 
Paint 
(if 
desired) 
and 
screw 
on 
the 
handle.
Finished 
Cold 
Frame
Expenses 
Reclaimed 
Wood 
FREE 
(discarded 
on 
side 
of 
curb 
by 
a 
neighbor) 
1”x 
2” 
Wood 
FREE 
(found 
in 
my 
basement) 
Window 
FREE 
(discard 
from 
Habitat 
Restore) 
Hinges 
and 
Handle 
$7 
(from 
Habitat 
Restore) 
Nails 
and 
Screws 
FREE 
(from 
my 
toolbox) 
Spray 
paint 
FREE 
(le] 
over 
from 
previous 
project) 
TOTAL 
COST 
$7
References 
1. 
Coleman, 
Eliot. 
The 
New 
Organic 
Grower 
: 
A 
Master's 
Manual 
of 
Tools 
and 
Techniques 
for 
the 
Home 
and 
Market 
Gardener. 
Chelsea, 
Vt: 
Chelsea 
Green, 
1989. 
See 
chapter 
19 
“Season 
Extension” 
which 
has 
informaFon 
on 
climate 
modificaFon 
by 
construcFng 
shelters 
for 
plants 
(i.e. 
low 
covers, 
cold 
frames, 
greenhouses, 
etc.). 
2. 
-­‐-­‐-­‐ 
The 
New 
Organic 
Grower's 
Four-­‐Season 
Harvest 
: 
How 
to 
Harvest 
Fresh 
Organic 
Vegetables 
from 
Your 
Home 
Garden 
all 
Year 
Long. 
Post 
Mills, 
VT: 
Chelsea 
Green 
Pub., 
1992. 
See 
chapters 
5 
and 
6 
on 
“The 
Covered 
Garden: 
Cold 
Frames 
and 
Garden 
Tunnels” 
and 
chapter 
7 
“The 
Underground 
Garden: 
Root 
Cellars 
and 
Indoor 
HarvesFng.”
References 
3. 
-­‐-­‐-­‐”A 
Garden 
for 
All 
Seasons: 
Gardening 
on 
the 
Back 
Side 
of 
the 
Calendar.” 
Mother 
Earth 
News, 
Issue 
178, 
Feb/March 
2000. 
www.fourseasonfarm.com 
(Barbara 
Damrosch 
and 
Eliot 
Coleman’s 
experimental 
market 
garden 
in 
Harborside, 
Maine) 
Easy 
to 
read 
arFcle 
on 
growing 
edibles 
in 
winter. 
4. 
Kreiter, 
Ted. 
“Garden 
All 
Winter 
Long.” 
Saturday 
Evening 
Post; 
Jan/Feb 
2010, 
Vol. 
282 
Issue 
1. 
p.50-­‐51, 
2p. 
Easy 
to 
follow 
instrucFons 
on 
building 
a 
cold 
frame.

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Constructng a Cold Frame - for Winter Gardening - A Permaculture Build Project

  • 1. Construc)ng a Cold Frame Permaculture Build Project Cayce Lee Fall 2010
  • 2. • The simplest way to improve growing condi)ons during cold weather is to find, create, or improve warm and sheltered spots. • Building a cold frame is an easy way to grow edibles during the winter, or to start plants from seeds in the spring.
  • 3. • A What is a cold frame? cold frame is basically a box with a glass (or plas)c) top and no boIom that sits on the soil. • A cold frame lessens climac)c stress by affec)ng: – Temperature: a single layer of glass can increase the temperature inside the cold frame from between 7-­‐20 degrees. – Moisture: Less moisture on the plants means less stress from freezing. – Wind: Provides a windbreak for plants, removing the windchill factor.
  • 4. Plants to Grow in a Cold Frame
  • 5. Star)ng Seedlings • Cold frames can also serve as a greenhouse for star)ng seedlings. • Seedlings started in a cold frame are hardy because they are not ar)ficially heated. • Watering is also less important because the seedlings are connected to the earth and can’t dry out as quickly as they would in a flat.
  • 6. Temperature Control • Keep a thermometer in the frame to monitor heat (on the soil is most accurate) • Vent excess heat out of the top by propping glass up • Aim for 70 degrees in the spring and 60 to 65 degrees in the fall “The ideal is to keep crops growing steadily in this protected environment, but not to overheat them. With cold frames, it is always beIer to err on the cool side and vent the frames excessively rather than to run them too warm. Very cold condi)ons are inevitable as winter arrives, and the so], succulent )ssues of plants that have been grown at too high temperatures will not be as hardy. Once winter arrives the system is basically dormant. Your winter food is not dependent on sunny weather for warmth because it is already grown. Cloudy days with frame temperatures in the 30s and 40s are fine. The cold nights are no problem, since the winter food plants don’t mind freezing. As long as the temperature in the plants gets above freezing every few days so the plants can thaw naturally before you harvest, all will be well.” -­‐Eric Coleman
  • 7. Project Plan While you can make a cold frame with a level lid, an angled top is best for allowing maximum sunlight. The direc)ons I looked at suggested a depth of 12 inches for the front of the box and 18 inches for the back, so I tried to get close to those measurements with the reclaimed boards I used. The length of the sides were built to match the size of the window I used for my lid.
  • 8. Materials and Tools Window for lid Reclaimed wood (2’x4’s) for sides 1”x2” wood for side braces 2 hinges Handle Spray paint to paint handle Tools for cuhng wood (Mitre saw and bandsaw) Power drill and screws Hammer and nails Ruler Pencil
  • 9. Step 1 Measure and cut the wood for the sides of your cold frame to match the dimensions of your top (window). Then use your 1”x2”wood to cut braces to connect the boards together. (Angle the top edge of the braces for the back sides to accommodate the slope of the window.)
  • 10. Step 2 Nail the wood boards for the front and back sides together using the wooden braces.
  • 11. Nail the side boards to the front and back of the box, but only up to the height of the front side. Step 3
  • 12. Turn the box on its side with the window connec)ng the back to the front of the box and trace the correct angle to cut the remaining boards for the sides. Step 4 Cut the angled boards and nail to the back side of the box.
  • 13. Step 5 Cut and nail more braces with the 1”x2” wood for the sides. Be sure to angle the top edge to match the slope of the sides.
  • 14. Step 6 Add triangular corner braces to stabilize structure of box.
  • 15. Step 7 Screw hinges on onto the interior side of the window and the back of the box.
  • 16. Step 8 Paint (if desired) and screw on the handle.
  • 18. Expenses Reclaimed Wood FREE (discarded on side of curb by a neighbor) 1”x 2” Wood FREE (found in my basement) Window FREE (discard from Habitat Restore) Hinges and Handle $7 (from Habitat Restore) Nails and Screws FREE (from my toolbox) Spray paint FREE (le] over from previous project) TOTAL COST $7
  • 19. References 1. Coleman, Eliot. The New Organic Grower : A Master's Manual of Tools and Techniques for the Home and Market Gardener. Chelsea, Vt: Chelsea Green, 1989. See chapter 19 “Season Extension” which has informaFon on climate modificaFon by construcFng shelters for plants (i.e. low covers, cold frames, greenhouses, etc.). 2. -­‐-­‐-­‐ The New Organic Grower's Four-­‐Season Harvest : How to Harvest Fresh Organic Vegetables from Your Home Garden all Year Long. Post Mills, VT: Chelsea Green Pub., 1992. See chapters 5 and 6 on “The Covered Garden: Cold Frames and Garden Tunnels” and chapter 7 “The Underground Garden: Root Cellars and Indoor HarvesFng.”
  • 20. References 3. -­‐-­‐-­‐”A Garden for All Seasons: Gardening on the Back Side of the Calendar.” Mother Earth News, Issue 178, Feb/March 2000. www.fourseasonfarm.com (Barbara Damrosch and Eliot Coleman’s experimental market garden in Harborside, Maine) Easy to read arFcle on growing edibles in winter. 4. Kreiter, Ted. “Garden All Winter Long.” Saturday Evening Post; Jan/Feb 2010, Vol. 282 Issue 1. p.50-­‐51, 2p. Easy to follow instrucFons on building a cold frame.