presented at Textile Association of India International seminar, December 2013

1. KITL
Innovations in
Textiles for
“Footprint”
Reduction
20th December 2013
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
1

2. KITL
Kothari InfoTech Limited
Since 2001, from Surat, India to provide Solutions for Digital Printing on various
substrates
Inks Division: Water based high density Charu™ inks and Disha™ pre-coatings for
Textile substrates(Cotton ,Viscose, Linen, Silk, Wool, Nylon and Polyester)
Textile Machinery Division: Sales and after sales service for “Ichinose” printing
machines(both conventional and digital)
“Rimslow” Loopager for Inkjet textile printing. “DTG Digital” for garment printing.
“DigiEye” for non contact colour measurement and QC
Software: Print Pro™, world class software, for Colour Separation, Colour Correction,
Device calibration, Half-toning, Large image data handling, Digital Imaging, Textile
coloration, Image composing and Printing. These applications are targeted towards ,
label printing as well as Wide/Large format digital printing for graphic arts,
photography, and Textiles(fabric and garments).
20th December 2013
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
2

3. KITL Water and Energy in Textile processing
UF
P
SO
‘s
2
NO x
CO2
CH4
emission
e
is
no
products
raw material
water
work place
waste
Soil
contamination
waste water
energy
ground-water
contamination
20th December 2013
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
3

4. KITL
Carbon Footprint
A Carbon Footprint is a measure of
the impact human activities have
on the environment in terms of the
amount of green house gases
produced, measured in units of
carbon dioxide
20th December 2013
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
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5. KITL
Global warming
Global warming refers to the increase in average
temperature of the Earths near-surface, air and
oceans in recent decades
The global average air temperature
near earths surface rose
0.74 ± 0.18°C during last 100 years.
20th December 2013
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
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6. KITL
20th December 2013
Global Warming
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
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7. KITL
1 Trillion
Kilowatt hours used every
Year by the global Textile
Industry
20th December 2013
Global Warming
=
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
10%
of the total Carbon Impact
7

8. KITL
Water Footprint
The water footprint of an individual, community or business
is defined as the total volume of freshwater used to produce
the goods and services consumed by the individual or
community or produced by the business.
Water use is measured in water volume consumed
(evaporated) and/or polluted per unit of time. A water
footprint can be calculated for any well-defined group of
consumers (e.g., an individual, family, village, city, province,
state or nation) or producers (e.g., a public organization,
private enterprise or economic sector).
20th December 2013
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
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9. KITL Environmental impacts of the textile Industry
Chemicals
•25% of the chemicals produced worldwide are used
for textiles
» Environmental impact
Water
•Growing of cotton: 8’000 – 40’000 L / kg cotton
•Finishing of textiles: up to 700 L freshwater / kg
textile
•Waste water in production: up to 600 L / kg textile
» Mostly drinking water quality
Energy
•High energy consumption in production, transport,
retail and use
» Contribution to global warming
20th December 2013
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
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10. KITL
Definition of a Pollutant
Pollutant is a substance
present in the wrong place
at the wrong time and in
the wrong quantity
20th December 2013
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
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11. KITL
Hazardous Chemicals
Textile wet processing
• Accounts for 17-20% of Industrial water pollution
• 72 Toxic Chemicals originate solely from Dyeing
30 of which cannot be removed
20th December 2013
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
9 Trillion
litres of
fresh water
is used
annually to
produce 60
billion kg of
fabric
11

12. KITL
20th December 2013
Fresh water availability
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
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13. KITL
20th December 2013
Effect of Pollution
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
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14. Definition
KITL
“Invention” can be defined as the creation of a
product or introduction of a process for the first time.
“Innovation” on the other hand, occurs if someone
improves on or makes a significant contribution to an
existing product, process or service.
20th December 2013
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
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15. KITL
Shaping Innovations
1. Institutions – which are often neglected but are where the
innovations happen.
2. Markets – where the demand and the finance comes from
and
3. Technologies – which go hand in hand with innovations
“Innovation is about the smart application of knowledge to
solve problems more imaginatively than we have in the
past.”
20th December 2013
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
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16. KITL
Change Agents
Ecology
Legislation
Cost
New Substrate
New Process
Speed for economics
Fashion and advertisement
Productivity constraint
Sustainability
20th December 2013
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
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17. KITL
Theory of Evolution
It is not the strongest of the species that survive, nor the
most intelligent
But the most responsive to change
Charles Darwin
20th December 2013
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
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18. KITL
Innovations pertaining to
• Products and processes
• Water Consumption
• Sustainable Fibres
• Coloration without dyes
20th December 2013
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
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19. KITL
Natural colours
 Natural dyes derived from plant material do not have the problems
associated with synthetic yes ,like banned amines ,PCB,PAH etc, however they
cannot be used on polyesters
O
OH
O
OH
OH
O
CH3CH2I
+ KI, H2O
KOH, DMSO
O
alizarin
1,2-dihydroxyanthraquinone
20th December 2013
O
1-hydroxy-2-ethylanthraquinone
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
19

20. KITL
•
Colours
Reactive dyes having a quartenary
nicotinate
• Cationic Reactive Dyes
• Avitera™
• Pigments for Polyesters
• Dyestone™
20th December 2013
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
20

21. KITL
Auxiliaries
• Use of Sugars in Sulphur dyeing
•Pre-treatment of cellulose with cationic,
nucleophilic polymers to enable reactive dyeing at
neutral pH without electrolyte addition
•Enzymes for polyester and also for imparting
hydrophilicity oligomer removal
20th December 2013
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
21

22. Processes
KITL
Fabric
E control™, Pad-Sizeox™
Garments
A blend of “color” and “softener”
Enzyme with tint
Provides ONE STEP stone-wash and tinting effect, abrasion,
surface polishing, de-pilling, and body softness on Indigo denim
garments.
Enzymatic single bath desizing-bleaching-dyeing
process for cotton fabrics
20th December 2013
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
22

23. KITL
20th December 2013
PrimaGreen® Process
from Genecor
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
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24. KITL
G2 Process from Jeanologia
Air
Aged
garments
Plasma
Air from the atmosphere is transformed into a blend of
active oxygen and ozone called Plasma, which is used to age
garments.The plasma is transformed back into purified air
before being returned to the atmosphere
20th December 2013
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
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25. KITL
20th December 2013
Coloured Silk Cocoons
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
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26. KITL
20th December 2013
Waterless dyeing
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
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27. KITL
20th December 2013
Supercritical COO
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
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28. SCOO - Machines
KITL
A fabric roll in
the chamber
Control panel
20th December 2013
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
Pressure storage vessel,
pumps and pipework
28

29. KITL
20th December 2013
SCOO - Process
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
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30. Process
KITL
20th December 2013
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
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31. Process
KITL
20th December 2013
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
31

32. KITL
20th December 2013
Cotton Art-Transfer printing of
Natural fabrics- German Dutch
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
32

33. KITL
20th December 2013
Ink Jet Printing
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
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34. KITL
The Digital Advantage
• Advantages
• Disappearing Disadvantages
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
• Speed
• Cost
• Replication of screen prints
No minimums
On demand manufacturing
Efficient sampling
No repeat size
No limit on colors
No color kitchen
No screen engraving
No screen warehousing
No limit on design size
Flexible design possibilities
Reduced waste
Reduced manpower
Environmentally Friendly
20th December 2013
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
34

35. Printers
KITL
Durst
Printer
Classification
Class 1
4-12 metres per hour
Class 2
18-90 metres per hour
Class 3
90-730 metres per hour
Class 4
Key Features
Ability to transport wide
variety of fabrics
through printer
Able to deliver variety of
textile ink chemistries
through print head
D-Gen
Digitex
DTG-Digitex
Ichinose
Konica Minolta
Kornit
La Meccanica
Mimaki
Either open or closed
system for ink and
software
65-75 metres per minute
MS
Mutoh
Osiris
Reggianni
Roland
Zimmer
20th December 2013
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
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36. KITL
Heads
Ricoh
RIPs
Variables
Inks
Print Pro- KITL
Kothari Info Tech- KITL
Epson
Ergosoft
DuPont
Xaar (solvent)
DP innovations
Nazdar
Kyocera
Caldera
Spectra
DGS
Konica Minolta
Inedit
Fuji Diamatix
Wasatch
Huntsman
Jaysynth
DyStar
Sawgrass
Solunaris/ Jay
Chemicals
Nippon Kayaku
HP Scitex
Stork
Seico Printek
Fuji Sericol
20th December 2013
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
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37. KITL
20th December 2013
How Green is the Process
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
37

38. KITL
Washing Processes
• 170 gms Cotton T shirt LCA
• 2653 litres water ( 45% is
in the usage- 1193 litres
• 90 gm fertilizer
• 45 gm pesticide
• 540 gm fossil fuel
20th December 2013
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
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39. KITL
Washing of garments
• Ozone laundry systems
• Replacement of water with polymers
• Self cleaning
20th December 2013
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
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40. KITL
20th December 2013
Ozone laundry systems
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
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41. KITLReduction in water during usage
Xeros
20th December 2013
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
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42. KITL
Problem of Microplastic in Waterways
Microplastic= Plastic debris <1mm
Shorelines at 18 sites across 6
continents contaminated
Forensic evaluation revealed that the microplastic
resembled PES and acrylic fibres used in clothing,
mainly those sites which receive sewage effluent
PES (67%), Acrylic(17%) and Polyamide(16%)
20th December 2013
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
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43. KITL
Microplastic- the future
A single garment when washed in a
machine can shed >1900 fibres per
wash
Designers of clothing and washing
machines should consider the need
to reduce the release and develop
methods to remove microplastic
from sewage.
20th December 2013
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
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44. KITL
Self cleaning fabrics
Minicor
Catalytic clothing
20th December 2013
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
44

45. KITL
20th December 2013
Sunlight Washing, Clothes
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
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46. KITL
Fibres
• Eco viscose
Modal Edelweiss™
• Soya
• Bamboo
Sustainable, natural, anti
bacterial, breathable and cool
20th December 2013
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
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47. KITL
Fibres
• PLA, Ingeo®, Sorona®
• >Mooo®
20th December 2013
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
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48. KITL
Eco Friendly Garments
•
•
•
•
Organic Cotton farming requires 25% less water than traditional cotton.
Bamboo: No pesticides required and the fabric is soft to touch
Lycoell: Solvent is recovered/recycled. It is an alternate to Rayon.
Ingeo: This is a man-made fiber by converting corn into a polymer to
make bio- degradable material. It is breathable and has insulation
properties of high-performing synthetic material. Requires 68% less
energy than polyester and is biodegradable.
• Hemp: A pound of hemp fiber needs a fraction of water needed for a
pound of cotton. It does not require pesticides.
• Soy: Soy fabrics use a by-product of Soy Products, namely Soy Milk,
Soybean Oil to create a material with a feel and look similar to silk.
20th December 2013
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
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49. Eco Friendly ? !
KITL
20th December 2013
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
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50. KITL How green is my T-Shirt
 Cotton is cheaper and takes less energy to manufacture than synthetic fibres.But
over its lifetime , a cotton T- Shirt requires more than twice the energy than is
necessary to manufacture and maintain a polyester blouse. The main difference:
polyester garments can be washed at a lower temperature, can hang dry and need
no ironing.
Energy used over the life time of the garment, in kilowatt hours.*
Raw Material
Cotton T-Shirt
Polyester Blouse
Manufacturing
4
Transportation
7
9
2
3
Use
18
1
2
Use assumes 25 washes per garment. The cotton T-Shirt is washed at 140 degrees
Fahrenheit, followed by tumble-drying and ironing.
The polyester blouse is washed at 104 degrees Fahrenheit, hung dry and not ironed.
The energy of one kilowatt hour will operate a 40-watt light bulb for a full day or a 19” color
television for about four hours.
20th December 2013
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
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51. KITL
Fermentation Fashion Microbe garments
20th December 2013
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
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52. KITL
20th December 2013
Bio couture
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
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53. KITL
Monster Silk - Spider Silk
Kraig Biocraft Laboratories, the leading developer of advanced spider silk based fibres, has this
month delivered the first shipment of its Monster Silk™ recombinant spider silk fibre to
Warwick Mills.
20th December 2013
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
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54. KITL
20th December 2013
Invisibility
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
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55. KITL
Coloration without colorants
Morpho rhetenor butterfly
Peacock feather
3µm
20th December 2013
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
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56. KITL
MORPHOTEX®
Teijin Fiber Corporation
Multilayer Optical
Interference
20th December 2013
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
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57. KITL
Fibres imitating Margaritaria Nobilis
Harvard University and University of Exeter,UK
20th December 2013
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
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58. KITL
Coloration without colours
Plixel Color Printing*
* A Star Exploit Technologies
20th December 2013
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
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59. KITL
Dangers of Prediction
“I think there is a world market for maybe five
Computers” Thomas Watson, Chairman of IBM, 1943
“Computers in the future may weigh no more
than 1.5 tonnes” Popular Mechanics, 1949
“There is no reason anyone would want a
computer in their home” Ken Olson, Present, Chairman and
Founder of Digital Equipment Corp, 1977
“640k [of RAM] ought to be enough for
anybody” Bill Gates, Chairman of Microsoft,1981
20th December 2013
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
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60. KITL
Endangered species extinction of business
Do not merely react to change
Anticipate and initiate change
Equilibrium is extinction
20th December 2013
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
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61. KITL
20th December 2013
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
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62. Hidden cost of Food
Hypothetical carbon footprint calculation of Red wines sold in New
York
Grammes of Carbon dioxide per bottle
Manufactured in
Cultivation Fermentation Winery
Containers
Transportation
TOTAL
Lore Valley France
210
109
132
479
447
1371
Napa Valley California
214
109
132
633
1425
2515
Emissions
are
released by
using
energy to
manage the
land.Organi
c methods
in France
reduce this
slightly
Carbon
dioxide is a
byproduct of
the chemical
reaction that
creates
alcohol, a
process that
begins wityh
grape crushing
Energy used
for lights,
cooling
tanks and
pumps all
result in
carbondioxi
de
emmissions
Glass for
bottles and
wood for
barrels-often
purchased in
Francerequire
energy to
make and
fuel to import
The napa wine is
trucked to New
York while the
French wine is
shipped for most
of the trip and
then trucked
Friday, December 6, 2013
Understanding Environmental
Requirements
Dr. Sanjiv Kamat
62