Dissertation- Maria Onotu- PDF

An investigation into the Afro-Caribbean
Hair market in the West end of Glasgow
Presented by Maria Onotu
BA (Honours) Marketing
2015
I certify that all material in this dissertation which is not my own is duly
acknowledged. I have read and understand the section in the
programme handbook dealing with plagiarism

HONOURS DISSERTATIONS SESSION 2014/15
School of Business and Enterprise
Library Registration
Surname ONOTU
Forenames MARIA
Banner ID B00257824
Degree Title BA (HONS) MARKETING
Dissertation Supervisor JAMES WATT
Dissertation Title An investigation into the
Afro-Caribbean Hair
market in the West end of
Glasgow.
This form must be bound in your dissertation (immediately after your title page)
before submission. Your dissertation cannot be accepted unless this form or the
confidential dissertation form is bound into your dissertation.

ABSTRACT
Natural hair products are essential for the scalp of Afro-Caribbean women. An
investigation to Department stores, African and Non-African Salons would be
carried out. In order to discover how well do they meet the growing natural hair
African segment.
The research will concentrate on African women who reside at the West end of
Glasgow.
The author will interview 1 African Salon and 1 Non-African Salon, as well as
carrying out Online and Telephone Interviews to obtain vital information from
participants.
A background of the African population in UK would be given to enable the
researcher to make comparisons between the African market, principally in London
and Glasgow; this will follow with information in regards to the African Hair and
Make-up issues.
The researcher has provided secondary information in regards to Ethnic
Segmentation and Market segmentation to enable the reader to have a better
understanding on the issues at hand.

Acknowledgements
I would like to take this opportunity to thank my family for their patience and
understanding while carrying out my dissertation.
My appreciation is also given to all those respondents who participated in the
Online Survey and Telephone interview, as well as to the Managers from the
selected Salons for their co-operation.
I finally express my gratitude to my dissertation adviser, James Watt for guidance
and support over the past months, and I would also like to thank my mentor Brian
Trait for guidance.

Copyright
“The copyright of this dissertation rests with the author. No quotation from it should be
published without his/her prior written consent and information derived from it should
be acknowledged”.

Table of Contents
Chapter 1: INTRODUCTION...............................................................................................................1
1.1. Population ........................................................................................................................1
African Immigration within UK.................................................................................................1
1.2. HAIR..................................................................................................................................6
African Hair Market..................................................................................................................6
1.3. MAKE-UP ..........................................................................................................................8
Ethnic Beauty............................................................................................................................8
1.4. Research Aims/ Objectives.............................................................................................10
Chapter 2: Literature Review..........................................................................................................11
2.1 Concept of Market Segmentation........................................................................................11
2.2. What is Market Segmentation?...........................................................................................12
2.3. Heterogeneous Market .......................................................................................................13
2.4. Advantages of Segmentation ..............................................................................................14
2.5. Limitations of Segmentation ...............................................................................................16
2.6. Multicultural Marketing ......................................................................................................17
2.7. Acculturation ...................................................................................................................20
2.8. Segmentation Types............................................................................................................21
2.8.1 Geographic segmentation .............................................................................................21
2.8.2 Psychographic segmentation ........................................................................................24
2.8.3 Behavioural segmentation ............................................................................................25
2.8.4 Demographic segmentation..........................................................................................26
2.9 Ethnic Marketing ..............................................................................................................26
2.10 Race and Ethnic variables...............................................................................................33
2.11 Why is ethnic segmentation important?........................................................................35
2.12 Race-Relation cycles.......................................................................................................37
Chapter 3: Methodology ................................................................................................................39
3.1 Research Approach...............................................................................................................39
3.2 Research Philosophy.............................................................................................................40
3.3 Research Methods................................................................................................................41
3.3.1 Sampling ........................................................................................................................42
3.3.2 Qualitative and Quantitative Research Methods..........................................................43
3.3.4 Questionnaires ..............................................................................................................46
3.3.5 Semi-structured interviews ...........................................................................................46
3.3.6 In-depth interviews......................................................................................................47

3.3.7 Telephone Interview......................................................................................................48
3.3.8 Online Survey.................................................................................................................49
3.3.9 Open question...............................................................................................................50
3.4 Limitations............................................................................................................................50
3.4.1 Focus Groups.................................................................................................................50
3.4.2 Reflections..............................................................................................................51
Chapter 4: Findings.........................................................................................................................53
4.1 Findings from Online Survey.................................................................................................54
Q1. Attitudes towards African Hair and Make-up products in Glasgow................................54
Q2. Marketing to Africa women’s hair ...................................................................................57
4.1.1. Telephone Interview.........................................................................................................61
4.1.2 Surveys for African and Non-African Salons......................................................................63
African Salon Survey...............................................................................................................63
Non-African Salons Survey .....................................................................................................65
Chapter 5: Analysis.........................................................................................................................66
Findings Analysis.........................................................................................................................66
5.1 African population growth ...............................................................................................66
5.2 African women Department store convenience ..............................................................67
5.3 Department Stores lack of Marketing to the African segment in Glasgow......................68
5.4 African Salon awareness on the African hair....................................................................71
5.5. Non-African Salon awareness on the African Market in Glasgow..............................74
5.6 Recommendations and Reflections......................................................................................76
Appendices .....................................................................................................................................79
Appendix 1: African type make-up brands.................................................................................79
Appendix 2: Population by ethnic group in April, 2001.............................................................80
Appendix 3: Quotes from African women’s hair experience:....................................................81
Appendix 4: Afro Hair styles.......................................................................................................82
Appendix 5: Saunders et al (2009) highlights the three main sources of Literature as:............84
Appendix 6: Q2 Online Survey....................................................................................................84
Appendix 7: Telephone Interview ..............................................................................................86
Appendix 8: African Salons.........................................................................................................87
Appendix 9: Non-African Salons.................................................................................................87
References......................................................................................................................................89

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Chapter 1: INTRODUCTION
1.1. Population
The growth of markets across the world has been linked to an important extent to ethnic
minority owned business. National Statistic Office 2001, propose that there are around
4.6 million ethnic minority businesses. The size of minority ethnic population in Scotland
has rapidly increased predominantly, the African population.
African Immigration within UK
According to Employability Scotland 2014, the African population grew rapidly from 5,000
in 2001 to 30,000 in 2011, growth was mainly due to immigration from families and
students studying over in Scotland and later acquiring a job or staying permanently
(Migration Statistics Quarterly Report, November 2014) “Work and study visas grants
continued to rise in the year ending September 2014, by 6% (+9,500) and 3% (+6,100)
respectively. These trends reflected higher levels of both skilled work visas granted and
university sponsored applications”. (Trade Union and Black and Minority Ethnic workers
in Scotland, 2004) 7% of the BME population in Scotland are full-time students compared
with 4% of the Scottish population.

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According to the General Office for Scotland/Mintel, Overseas ethnic group tourist. There
are three different types of ethnic minority consumers:
1. Those who reside in the UK, who are from non-white ethnic groups and might have
been born/migrated to the UK.
2. Migrants who reside in the country for less than 3-6 months due to economic reasons.
3. Visitors from ethnic minority groups who come for visit either for business, friends or
holidays.

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An illustration of the number of Ethnic minority groups born in the UK, (Office of National
Statistics), a focus on ethnic and identity data;
People living in Great Britain who were born in the United Kingdom: by ethnic group, April 2001
Great Britain
All ages
United
Kingdom
White British 98.16
White Irish 34.24
Other White 20.56
Mixed 79.22
Indian 45.92
Pakistani 54.98
Bangladeshi 46.44
Other Asian 30.81
Black Caribbean 57.86
Black African 33.74
Other Black 79.10
Chinese 28.73
Any other ethnic group 15.56
All ethnic groups 91.55

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Source: 2001 Censuses, Office for National Statistics, General Register Office for
Scotland
In the table above the value of number are on thousands.
Research of Office for National Statistics (focus on ethnicity data and identity data)
illustrated the growth increased of Africans in Scotland compared to England. Census data
verified a higher percentage of ethnic minority backgrounds living in large urban areas
compared to the white population.
Only 39% of the total population of Scotland live in large urban areas, Africans have a
higher proportion of 76%. Glasgow has the highest percentage of minority ethnic with
31% of the total minority ethnic population living in the city; Edinburgh follows with 18%,
the lowest concentrations are found in rural areas such as Angus (0.8%) and Orkney Isles
(0.1%).
According to Ethnic population Projections for Scotland, 2011 “ The UK in 2051 will be a
more diverse society than in 2001 and this diversity will have spread out to many more
parts of the country beyond the big cities where ethnic minorities are concentrated today.”
In their findings they stated that there will be potential growth in the Black population by
93% in 2051.
According to the diagram below, the African population is of 5% which is close to the
entire Glasgow population. The Glasgow population is of 592. 820 (National Records of
Scotland, 2001).

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Figure 1: Shows the Immigration population by region in London, adapted from Middlesex
and London County.
Professor Philip Rees of Leeds University, declared that the fastest growing ethnic groups
are “Other White” followed by the Black African, Pakistani and Indian ethnic groups. Philip
further added that they “will shift out of deprived inner-city areas to more affluent areas,
which echoes the way white groups have migrated in the past”. His research showed the
shrinkage of White British group from 87.1% to 67.1%, Asian group increase by 3%, Blacks

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by 2% and Chinese and other by 2.6% points. Philip claims that white Britons will be a
minority by 2066.
1.2. HAIR
African Hair Market
According to Think Ethnic (2014). The Afro-Caribbean hair market is profitable with
various mainstream and independent brands existing in the market. Some brands have
been exclusively created for the rising demand of natural hair care ingredients. The
demand is increasingly high for ethnic products to suit the unique Afro-Caribbean hair.
Globally, the hair care market is valued at £427 million, is estimated to rise to £475 million
by 2017.
Ethnic minority market represents 5% of the market. However, if companies invest finance
on research, product development and advertisement there’s a probability that an
enormous profit could be made (Think Ethnic, 2014).
In spite of growth of the African population in the UK, majority of hair beauty stores have
not done enough to address the African population’s need (Colour Cosmetic UK-JULY
2014). The new face of Britain has become highly diversified, “ethnic minorities in UK have
an estimated spending power of £300 billion” new diverse and thriving markets have been
able to take advantage of such demands. Nevertheless, Britain has been slow to get hold
of these opportunities, particularly in the area of hair care (Think ethnic, 2014).
Department stores like Boots and Superdrug have the ability to supply products
orientated to the Afro-Caribbean hair market. In 2012-13 strong pace of growth came

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from advancements in retail initiative and in-store treatments as well of partnership with
brands and departments stores (Colour Cosmetic UK-JULY 2014).
Figure 2; shows the side effect of Sulphate on Afro-Caribbean hair.
Shampoo or conditioners containing sulphate are unsafe for Afro-Caribbean hair.
According to Hair Naturel (2005-2015), Sodium Laurel or lauryl sulphate (SLS) is a chemical
found in garage floor cleaners, car washes and engine degreasers as well as in over 95%
of personal product care. (SLS) when combined with other chemicals it becomes
“nitrosamine” which causes hair loss. (SLS) is a powerful degreaser that removes all the
dirt from the hair and scalp but it also removes the natural oils which makes the hair drier
and (SLS) may remain in the scalp, such a minor chemical can have serious bad side effects.

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1.3. MAKE-UP
Ethnic Beauty
The subject of marketing make-up products to ethnic minorities groups has been
discussed in Mintel (Ethic Beauty-Uk-2009). The market of ethnic beauty is valued at £70
million even though white make up the majority of the English population, recent growth
comes from all ethnic groups by 23% between 2004 and 2009. According to Colour
Cosmetic UK-July-2014 “Over a quarter (26%) of face colour cosmetics users struggle to
find products to match their skin tone, rising to 40% amongst 16-24-year-old”. Boots
provides a machine that was supposed to match any skin tone (Boots, 2015). However,
evidence suggest that the new make-up matching technology is not as successful on
African skin tones.

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Figure 3; Make-up Skin matching (Boots, 2015)
Quotes from African Women:
“I have tried to go twice on 1 day
and the machine showed two
different colour shades”
“The machine was unable to
identify my colour shade as it
showed error”
“The colour matched identified by the machine made my skin look green or yellower”
The ethnic mix in the UK is changing, with young women likely to have a wider range of
natural skin tones (Superdrug, 2015).
The author was able to provide background information on the Afro-Caribbean hair and
make-up issues and information on the African growth in the UK predominately in
Scotland (Glasgow).

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1.4. Research Aims/ Objectives
Taking what the author have learned and understanding about the African population in
the UK, and various issues surrounding the Ethnic minority Hair and Make-up markets.
The aims and objective of this report are:
1. To undertake a literature review into market segmentation and ethnic segmentation.
2. To undertake primary and secondary research on the hair, make-up and African
markets in Glasgow.
3. To analyse the variation methods of data collection available to aid the study.
4. To present the findings from this research and to analyse the information gained.
5. To provide recommendations for future research.

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Chapter 2: Literature Review
The literature review will highlight and review what others have wrote about
segmentation and ethnic segmentation as well as information on the African’s hair,
makeup and African population segmentation within UK.
“The essence of successful segmentation lies not in fragmentation but in building an
excellent understanding of the marketplace” (Dibb, 2012 Ch7).
2.1 Concept of Market Segmentation
For decades marketers have been using one marketing plan to satisfy the entire market’s
needs. However, with customer’s demands increasing, companies have found themselves
under pressure with competitors, which resulted in a move from mass market to segment
marketing (Burk, 2003). Products compete with one another on an attempt to satisfy the
needs and wants of those customers, segmentation provides a better understanding of
the customer to the business. Through segmentation an organisation aims to obtain a
middle ground, where it does not entirely relies on a marketing program for all customers,
neither does it involve on the high cost of developing a personal program for each
customer (Gary, L. 1998).
Marketers rely on judgement to make decisions based on which segment to target and
how much potential the targeted segment will offer. Other marketers follow the lead of
competitors or earlier entrants (Eztel, 1997). Structure analysis is another option which
allows marketers to obtain insight and opportunities that would have been taken for
granted with the use of a small budget.

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2.2. What is Market Segmentation?
Market segmentation consists of the identification of segmentation variables followed by
segmentation of the market. Wendell Smith introduced the concept of market
segmentation fifty years ago, as an unconventional marketing strategy in a place where
diversity had become the market norm, and defined as “viewing a heterogeneous market
as a number of smaller homogeneous markets, in response to differing preferences,
attributable to desires of consumers for more precise satisfaction of their varying wants”
(Smith, 1956, p. 6). He recognised its similarities to product differentiation, both lead to
different sets of products from a given manufacture but both procedures had opposite
orientation.
Differentiation focuses on the supply side and aimed to align demand with supplier’s
priorities via promotion and advertising whereas segmentation focuses on demand
orientation and accepted marketplace heterogeneity (Smith, 1956).
“Creating different products only becomes effective following segmentation. The truly
successful company must first find segments and then create products and services fitting
their needs” (Wendell, S. 1956).
Smith stated that in order to be successful in the planning of marketing activities,
application of both product differentiation and market segmentation is vital since it
provides a greater customer satisfaction, leading to greater over-all stability and secure
market position. (p.7).

13
Businesses from all industry sectors use market segmentation in their marketing and
strategic planning. For many, market segmentation is regarded as the panacea of modern
marketing (Wind, 1978). Customer’s needs are becoming progressively diverse and they
can no longer be satisfied by a mass marketing approach. Business can manage this
diversity by grouping customers with similar requirements and buying behaviour into
segments, thus enabling companies to make choices into which segment to target and
making good use of their resources.
2.3. Heterogeneous Market
The undifferentiated market approach suggests that all customers have similar needs and
wants and those needs/wants could be distributed with a single marketing mix. Although
this approach could be useful, in some specific products it cannot be used for the mass
market due to the fact that some markets have customers with different needs/wants
(Dibb, 2012). Market segmentation involves grouping the heterogeneity market into
smaller and similar segments, enabling a marketer to group individuals, organisations or
groups who shares one or more similar characteristic that cause them to have relatively
similar product needs and buying characteristic. Enabling the marketer to produce and
market their products specifically for a particular segment (Dibb, 2012). It is the process
of grouping customers within a market accordingly to similar needs, habits, attitudes that
can be addressed through marketing (Burk, 2003).
Customers in the heterogeneity market actively seek and pay a premium attention for
products and services that better meet their needs and wants. Although customers are
heterogeneity, they do cluster into specific groups whose member’s needs are more

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similar to those of other customers in that group than they are to the needs of customers
in other groups. The cost of serving customers in a segment must be no more than what
they are willing to pay, although they may be higher than the costs of serving an average
customer (Gary, L. 1998).
Once marketers have identified their market segment, they must decide which market
they intend to enter. In the UK, marketers have realised that ethnic minority groups
cannot just be classified, since different class, age, immigration and thinking occurs.
Therefore, an understanding of the ethnic minority buying behaviour is essential (Journal
of Marketing Practice: Applied Marketing Science, 1995).
Marketers who know their target markets are more likely to design a marketing mix that
is suitable to their segment.
2.4. Advantages of Segmentation
1. Careful segmentation, and the understanding underlying it, can make it easier for
companies to identify and exploit different market opportunities.
2. Variety offers to consumers.
3. Gives marketers the choice of entering segments in which only limited number of
competitors are active (Burk, 2003).
4. Focus resources on most promising opportunities (Burk, 2003).
Market segmentation is customer orientated; it enables business to identify the wants
within a submarket and opt to whether it will be profitable or not to develop a marketing
mix that will target their selected segment (Etzel, 1997). It allows managers to do a better

15
job in tailoring a marketing program to their targeted segments, enabling them to make
effective use of their resources. It permits small firms with limited resources to compete
effectively in one or two market segments, depending on their targeted segment as
competition could be possible (Etzel, 1997).
Customer analysis
It facilitates a better understanding of customer’s needs, wants and other characteristics.
The direct focus on segmentation allows those personal, behavioural and situational
factors that distinguish customers in a specific segment to be considered. It allows
marketers to ask questions such as (how, why and what) do customers buy; enabling
markets to respond quickly to change (Dibb, 2012). The company concentrates on
providing a product that will suit their targeted segment by making use of an adequate
design and marketing mix, as they response effectively to the market change (Ostroff,
1994).
Competitor analysis
Intense competition exist in majority of markets, businesses need to have adequate
knowledge of the competition they face, as it is vital for business to know who their
competition is; their changes in trends and targets. Companies will be able to target the
appropriate segment since they would have a competitive advantage (Dibb, 2012). If
companies are unaware of their competitive environment they will risk targeting the
wrong segment (Ostroff, 1994).

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Effective resource allocation
Allocating all material and personnel resources into a focused segment of customers it’s
an advantage for any organisation. Companies would make effective use of resources in
an effective manner (Dibb, 2012). Promotional campaigns can be designed and targeted
to the right media mix and business can make use of their sales people in order to obtain
detailed information (Ostroff, 1994).
Strategic marketing planning
Segmenting markets enables companies to develop a plan which gives particular
consideration to the needs and wants of customers in diverse segments. Its timescale can
be planned since some segments change faster than others (Dibb, 2012). It enables firms
to explore new entrants, like smaller markets (Ostroff, 1994).
2.5. Limitations of Segmentation
Increased cost
More finance would be spent on segmentation since a business would try to concentrate
on a specific segment rather than on mass market (Dibb, 2012).
Corporate commitment
The transition from mass marketing to segmentation could take months, it intakes the
management’s ability to implement strategies based on research. The information gained

17
will be of no value unless it is supported by the 4 P’s and is evaluated on a daily basis
(Ostroff, 1994).
2.6. Multicultural Marketing
Segmentation provides meaningful information based on expected segment but not on
individual purchasing behaviour (Ostroff, 1994) customers will have different and specific
buying behaviour and personal selling initiative. Numerous factors have been associated
with the spread of British ethnic minorities including the colonisation in Africa, India and
the Caribe (Nwankwo and Lindridge, 1998), at present they have increased their
purchasing power (Burton, 2002)
As UK becomes highly multicultural, “ethnicity occupies an important role on the
development of market strategies” (Burton, 2002). The growing rate of ethnic minorities
in the UK offer marketers the opportunity to operate in niche markets and develop
products and services (Dibb, 2013). Nevertheless, British firms have rarely developed
ethnic marketing strategies unlike US companies (Nwankwo and Lindridge, 1998). Burton,
2002 states that if a company is unable to market to multicultural Britain, it should
extremely evaluate its ability to market globally.
The term multicultural marketing refers to targeting and communicating to ethnic
minority groups in cultural diverse societies (Cui, 1997). Ethnic minority groups are not
only different from the conventional population but there is a high degree of diversity
within groups (Quester and Chong, 2001). The growing ethnic minority groups in the UK
provides enough reason for marketers to find ways to segment and target the ethnic

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minority groups (Burton, 2002). It’s important for marketers to know the strengths of
ethnic minority marketing, because they can be classified into those with weak/strong ties
to their ethnic culture (Williams and Qualls, 1989). Consumption patterns have a lot to do
with the strengths of the ethical identity. For example, Hispanic husbands who have a
strong ethnic identity will have more influence in their purchase decision than their wives
whereas husband and wives with a weak ethnic identity will show the same level of
purchasing decision (Webster, 1994). Hispanics with strong identities will demonstrate a
high level of Spanish language consumption in media; those Spanish with a strong ethnic
culture had a positive attitude towards government and the weak ethnic identifiers
(Deshpande et al, 1989). In addition, Hispanic with strong ethnic identities were less
worried about the economic value and highly effected by the media than weak identifiers
(Donthu and Cherian, 1994). Equally, African’s with strong ethnic identifiers had a positive
attitude towards black models in advertisement for make-up than the weak identifiers
(Green, 1999).
2.6.1 Make-up brands targeted to the Ethnic Minority Group
IMAN, a make-up brand that has been designed for African, Asian and Latino women,
distributes their products across UK. However, there are only available in London and not
in Glasgow (IMAN, 2015). MAC targets similar ethnic groups to IMAN, however, Mac
products are available in Glasgow (MAC, 2015). Other products include; Blackup Paris,
which are only available in England and not in Glasgow and other rather expensive
cosmetic brands like Aida, Nars, CoverGirl Queen Collection which are available online to
purchase with USA as its home base (Juice, 2011).

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Figure 4: Shows the different Afro-Caribbean shades (IMAN, 2015)
In spite of growth in ethnic minorities particularly Asians, the majority of cosmetic
companies have not done enough to address their beauty needs (Colour Cosmetic UK-
July, 2014); differences on skin type and colour means that mainstream cosmetics tend
not to be suitable for non-white people. Ethnic beauty products are a small niche sector
with the total market representing 2% of the total market for women’s skincare and make-
up. Therefore, specialist brands are hard to come by since the majority are established in
London.
Refer to Appendix 1 for images of African skin type make-up

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2.7. Acculturation
Acculturation has been considered to be an effective ethnic segmentation variable, it has
a reflective effect on the consumption patterns of ethnic minority groups and their
response to marketing strategies (Quester and Chong, 2001). There are two categories of
acculturation; Highly-acculturated which refers to those who have developed the host
nation’s way of living and the Low-acculturated which are those who have kept their
ethnic culture. For example, low-acculturated Hispanics would be more likely to respond
to print media and would hold a positive attitude to direct marketing (Korgaonkar et al,
2000).
Consumer researchers in Britain have ignored the diversity within ethnic minority groups.
Mainly the strengths of ethnic minority identity and acculturation of Africans living in the
UK. Burton (2000), mentions that UK financial institutions are not aware of the difference
within and between ethnic groups. Only 29 % of UK firms had made an attempt to target
ethnic minority groups, those firms perceived their investment to be effective while 42 %
perceive their strategies as not effective and the remaining 29 % did not target minority
ethnic groups (Fulford, 2001). Marketing companies have overlooked marketing to the
ethnic minority market, they believed that the population is small and not worth of
marketing to, senior managers hold little knowledge in regards to the ethnic minority in
UK. However, those organisations that ignore marketing to the ethnic minority have
demonstrated that they can rarely communicate effectively (Burton, 2002).

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2.8. Segmentation Types
The author has considered Geographical, Psychometric, Behavioural and Demographic
segmentation.
2.8.1 Geographic segmentation
Involves a business dividing its market geographically. There are various ways in which a
firm can segment their market based on geography; such as by country, city, region, state
or internationally. Markets can also be divided into urban, suburban and rural or by
climate (Education Portal, 2015). Information in regards to the African population within
the UK would be provided below:
Population by Ethnic Group in April, 2001 (UK)
According to the most recent national census, taken in 2001, Black Africans comprise 0.8%
of the total UK population, and 10.5% of the total ethnic minority population. In Scotland
between mid-2012-2013, 28,200 people came to Scotland from overseas countries, and
26,100 left Scotland.

22
Figure 5; Shows the Net migration in Scotland adapted from [National Census, 2001.]
Summary report of the ethnic minority census 2001 shows that Africans were 0.10% of
the total population, Indians 0.30% and Chinese 0.32%. The size has been growing since
1991, the minority ethnic population increased by 62.3% between 1991 and 2001.
Scotland main cities, Glasgow, Aberdeen and Edinburgh are the most ethnically diverse.
Glasgow has 12% of ethnic minority population with; Asians 8%, African 2% followed by
Caribbean and other. Edinburgh and Aberdeen minority population was over 8%.
However, London has the largest population of ethnic groups within the UK; Black Africans
establish a large percentage of the population, residing in the capital Hackney (12%),
Lambeth (12%), Newham (13%) and Southwark (16%).
Refer to Appendix 2 for more detail on Population by Ethnic Group

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African Migration
The African migration in the UK has been growing since the mid-20th century; countries
like Nigeria, Kenya, South African, Zimbabwe, Ghana and Somalia are among the top
common countries of birth of foreign-born UK residents (Migration Statistics Quarterly
Report, November 2014).
The diagram below illustrates the number of Africans living in Scotland, 2011. Glasgow
has 2.1% of African’s living there making a total of 12% of the highest minority group after
Pakistani with 3.8%.

24
Figure 6; Shows the percentage of Non-White population in 2001, Scotland [Adopted from
National Records Scotland, 2011]
According to Nationals Records of Scotland, 2011. The Scottish population made a total
of around 5.2 million, with Glasgow making 592, 820 of the population, Edinburgh
486,120, Aberdeen 217,120, Dundee 144,290, Inverness 56,660 and Stirling 89,850. The
diagram above shows that in 2011, the African population in Glasgow was higher that the
Indian and Chinese.
2.8.2 Psychographic segmentation
Psychometric tests finds out what makes consumers want to purchase a product since it
recognises that consumers are different individuals. It targets specifically, through
measurements of a person’s attitudes, behaviour, abilities, intelligence and aptitudes
(Dibb, 2012).
Marketing to Mature Women
Women aged 55 and over are expected to account for 16% of the female population by
2019; the equivalent of more than 10 million women. Trends in pension age and divorce
rate have made mature women a key consumer group for colour cosmetics, encouraging
beauty brands to use older women in their marketing and advertising (Fashionista, 2014).
Women age 60 are being described as “the new 20”, they presently feature in high fashion
and make-up magazines, mature women age 69, 64 and 68 are being used as the face of
brands like L’Oreal Paris, Mark Jacobs Beauty and Nars. The reason why companies make

25
use of mature women for their brands is due to how women age 55+ over, wants to be
communicated into a more personal level (Fashionista, 2014)
Figure 7: An Image Nars usage of mature women (Nars, 2015)
2.8.3 Behavioural segmentation
Behavioural segmentation divides the population based on their behaviour, in respect to
the way they respond, know or use a product. This method is used by marketing
management in order to study consumers in depth. It is done in such way, because there
are numerous reasons that will influence a customer’s decisions based on their affected
behaviour (Dibb, 2012)

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2.8.4 Demographic segmentation
Marketers rely on demographic characteristics of segmentation because they are often
linked to customer’s needs and purchasing behaviour, they are also common and easily
identified consumer characteristics (Dibb, 2012). Furthermore, they show the difference
on consumer needs, wants, product consumption, and media usage (Burk, 2003).
Demographic segmentation is frequently used by marketers because it is related to
demand and it’s relatively easy to measure (Eztel, 1997). Marketers in Europe have not
been able to realise the impact that cultural diversity has on their marketing program
(Burton, 2000). Burton proposed a conceptual framework to integrate ethnic identity and
ethnicity into marketing theory and practice in the UK. The framework consists of:
1. Marketers understanding of ethnic identity and ethnicity identity.
2. Marketer can use ethnicity to figure their specific consumer’s needs.
3. Adopting a marketing mix and service to satisfy the ethnic minority needs
2.9 Ethnic Marketing
“Ethnic marketing is the process of designing product campaigns and advertising to appeal
to certain racially, ethnically or culturally-related consumer groups. It is a type of market
segmentation that attempts to target specific groups with more focused and appropriately
presented messages. This type of marketing can be used for positive or negative business
purposes.” (Wisegeek, 2003-2015).
Companies present products to consumers and encourage them to make a purchase. This
involves the use of adequate packaging and advertising in order to develop a product

27
image and inspire consumer behaviour based on the image. Business have the option to
treat all customers alike or they can opt to tailor the product image to the segment they
want to target as well as devising different messages for each individual segment.
Business can market their segment based on the different characteristics of such segment
which includes gender, age, or geographical location. A controversial segment which could
be effective for business includes ethnicity. Ethnic marketing tries to make the
advertisement and other marketing strategies suitable for the identified ethnic group. In
America African-American, Hispanics and Asian-American are the popular ethnic segment
(Wisegeek, 2003-2015).
Ethnic marketing attempts to use special tactics that are designed to attract the selected
segment’s attention. For example, a marketing campaign tailored for Hispanics might use
Spanish text or audio and might use Hispanics models instead of Caucasian models and
English text. This is done in order to tailor the message to the targeted segment, the
theory is to enable consumers to see themselves in the advertisement or something they
can relate to (Wisegeek, 2003-2015).
The characteristics of ethnic minority groups could be used in advertisements for a
positive or negative business purpose e.g. translating advertisement into another
language and including diversity in the message would show a sign of respect for the
target group.
Some business concentrates on the stereotypes in order to promote negative images or
behaviour from the targeted segment e.g. targeting ethnic groups for cigarettes and
alcohol advertising preserves a negative stereotype which shows that minority groups

28
spend their money buying unhealthy products. “Other companies take general
stereotypes and translate them into marketing material that can be perceived as offensive
when applied universally”. (Wisegeek, 2003-2015).
2.9.1 Reasons for Ethnic marketing
1. Companies seek for original ways to be profitable and build customer loyalty due to
the increase of competitive pressure in the majority of industries.
2. Ethnic marketing signifies an opportunity to differentiate a company’s offering in the
saturated market place and to develop new products (Think Ethnic, 2012).
Marketers in general are continuously thinking of ways to be relevant and to keep up with
the increase rate rise of communication via online and offline. However, when it comes
to Multicultural Marketing, the majority of marketers are unable to personalise their
communication to the UK diverse audience.
In order for segmentation to work, the message has to be tailored to the distinct audience
in order for the message to be appealing; marketers could base it on ethnic background
or by region e.g. Muslims are offered a Ramadan package to coincide with the “Holly
month” of fasting purchasing season, markets do this to increase sales.
Brands like Nike and Pepsi engage with ethnic influences with the help of their
Online/Offline presence and product endorsement, they can effectively with ethnic
influencers. Marketers fall short of focusing on over simplicity; they should be able to use
an ethnic specific multicultural approach (Think Ethnic, 2014).

29
2.9.2 African Hair Market
Boots supplies one product line with natural ingredients which
could possibly be suitable for the African hair type. Herbal
Essence currently uses Nichole Scherzinger a multitalented
artist as the Face of their brand.
H & E product range usually contains Argon oil, which is best
suited for Afro-Caribbean hair. However, not all of their products are suited for Afro-
Caribbean hair type as some contain sulphate. Nevertheless, Superdrug on the other hand
has been able to supply products Online which are best suited for the Afro-Caribbean hair.
Though, the lack of
marketing done to the African segment in Glasgow seemed to be poor. Superdrug’s Afro-
Hair care products are not available In-store but in the company’s website (Superdrug,
2015). The company provides a wide range of products ranging from: Daily Care &
Maintenance, Shampoo & Conditioners, Relaxer Kits, Styling & Finishing, Colorants and
Hair Oils and Treatments.
Primark began to stock Moroccan Argon oil at a price of £2.50 for a bottle of 18ml (Share
crown, 2013), Superdrug provides the same oil for a price of £3.99 for a bottle at a higher

30
quantity of 200ml (Superdrug, 2015). However, just like Superdrug there’s no evidence of
Primark’s use of Online or In-store advertisement.
Figure 8; Shows an image of Argon Oil
2.9.3 Importance of Afro-Caribbean Hair
As mentioned in the introduction section under Hair, Sulphate is a powerful degreaser
which might remain in the hair, and removes all the dirt from the hair and scalp as well as
the natural oils, making hair drier. Such a minor chemical can have serious bad side effects
an examples would be provided below;
A hair stylist added relaxer to a deep conditioning treatment to an African women’s hair
(BGLH, 2011). The deceptive treatment made the women lose her hair and take legal
action against the Salon.
Another case is of a white stylist refusing to do a black client’s natural hair because she
lacked the experience; the article mentioned that all stylists should have been given all

31
the teaching necessary in order to make every customer comfortable. Apologies were
written to the customers;
“We apologize to Dr. Thompson for her experience in our salon. At TGF, we are committed
to creating a welcoming environment for all of our guests. We will provide additional
training for our staff at this location and hope that she will consider giving us another
opportunity, which will be complimentary” (BGLH STAFF, 2014).
The PH balance in Afro-hair products are very important, the closer it is to 4.5 or 5.5 the
better are the chances for the cuticle to remain close and for an increase on softness to
be seen (BGHL, 204).
Dr. Susan Taylor, a Harvard trained dermatologist stated that hair loss is epidemic among
African-American women of all ages “I probably see 20 women a week with hair loss”.
Afro-Textured hair is drier, has more breakage and some hairstyles could stress the scalp
(Thegrio, 2012).
Refer to Appendix 3 for more Quotes from African women’s hair experience
2.9.4 Background on African Hair History
In the 15th century in Africa, hairstyles indicated a person’s status within the community.
For African women, hair is not just something to play with; it is something that is loaded
with messages. According to Rooks (1996) “Its style could lead to acceptance or rejection
from certain groups and social classes, and its styling could provide the possibility of a
career”.

32
In the 18th century Louisiana (USA) women of colour were banned to wear their Afro-hair
on public due to white women feeling jealous of the attention black women received from
white men, a Law was passed on 1789 which stated that Black women had to wear a cloth
to cover their hair (BGLH, 2014).
The rules were created to interfere with the
growing influence of the free black population and keep their social status in order. The
rule name was “Tignon Laws” which referred to headdress (BGLH, 2014).

33
2.9.5 Afro-Caribbean Hair Types
This is fine tightly kinky, curled hair which is fragile and prone
to breakage. There are different categories but this is 4sub, and has Type 4a, 4b & 4c. The
majority of African women will fall into those categories
Figure 9; Shows the different Afro-Caribbean hair
Refer to Appendix 4 for further information on Afro-Hair types
2.10 Race and Ethnic variables
Marketers treat ethnicity segmentation different in different parts of the world. In USA,
ethnic is openly used to segment markets for goods and services; the growing Hispanic
population in the USA means that this segment is targeted by numerous companies (Dibb,
2012). Companies believe that if advertisement is done in Spanish their product will sell
due to the perception they have of those customers being loyal and thinking that they
would prefer Spanish media. However, advertisers and researchers disagree with such
assumptions, since they are unsure if it is adequate to advertise to Hispanic speaking
ethnic group in Spanish.

34
In the UK, the ethnic minority population increased from 3.9% in 1980 to 7.4% in 2001; it
is now estimated at 11 per cent. Nowadays, companies are looking for ways to connect
with this segment, (Dibb, 2012). Marketers must avoid stereotyping customers when
using race and nationality. Business should look at customer’s behaviour and attitudes,
which would enable them to see what motivates customers to purchase a product. (Buck,
2003). Effective representation would be a key element for the ethnic minority cultures.
In developed countries, ethnic minority groups have a larger buying power. In the UK,
there are 7th ethnic minority groups according to Labour Force Survey published in 2003
(Marketing Pocker Book, 2004).
Russell and Russell (2010) discovered that when an ethic group identity is strong, people
will put more emphasis on activities which will benefit their group e.g. people from an
African background will patronise a business that they believe will respond to their social
needs and wants. Palumbo and Teich (2004) suggest that minority and ethnic group
segmentation must consider the impact of acculturation since the amount of time an
individual spends in the society will impact their outlook. Parallel strategies should be
developed for targeting both acculturated ethnic groups and those not yet acculturated
(West, 2010).

35
Figure 10 - Population by Ethnic Origin, BME only, 2001
Marketers are reluctant to develop marketing programmes for specific groups in the UK,
even when the ethnic minority population grows year by year; they fear that promoting
and advertising for the ethnic segment would bring them accusations of ethnic
stereotyping and racism (Dibb, 2001).
2.11 Why is ethnic segmentation important?
Ethnic segmentation is useful to do, in order to target the market for specific products.
Marketers could find challenging to segment the market based on ethnicity, since a firm
has to understand an ethnic’s group buying behaviour and motivation. Studies have been
carried out by the Bureau of Labor Statistics and private research firms which shows the

36
difference between races e.g. Blacks and Whites in America differ in their income levels
as well as on their level of education, living area and product categories. Comparisons
were made between the Whites and Blacks spending behaviour; results showed that
Blacks spent a greater proportion of their income on purchasing meat, poultry, personal
care products and cleaning products and less on entertainment, medical services and
alcoholic beverages (Eztel, 1997). Ethnic markets are not homogeneous units, just like any
other population segment consisting of 20 to 30 million people.
Firms who produce skin colour products acknowledge ethnic segments e.g. Africans or
Hispanics. They acknowledge the sub-groups which are based on income, geo-graphical
location and life-cycle stage. Those specialised firms understand that skin colour is a major
factor when it comes to purchasing habits e.g. Estee Lauder Cosmetics Company has 115
different make-up foundation shades for black women (Eztel, 1997). America represents
a great diversity of people with different ethnic backgrounds, religious preference and
countries of national origin. This difference affects the way in which they purchase
products. In 1990s, projections showed that minorities will grow by 80% in the future.
Research showed that Hispanics had a high purchasing concentration on grocery stores,
which can in turn increase a brand’s market share.
Spanish advertisement is common in different states in America like Los Angeles and
Miami. Majority of products that Spanish ethnic purchased, had a link to their hometown
e.g. Bunuelitos. Research indicates that the key is to be able to market the subculture
segment without being stereotypical which could easily offend the targeted market
(Ostroff, 1994).

37
2.12 Race-Relation cycles
Robert E. Park (1950) suggests that there is no general sociological theory explanation for
the existence of ethnic segmentation aside from the concept of race-relation cycles. An
approach that treats ethnic stratification as a consequence of difference in power. Park’s
model consists of four steps: contact, competition, accommodation and assimilation. A
description of the model is provided below;
Race relation cycles directs to immigration, at this stage there is peaceful contact between
groups caused by curiosity. As the level of immigrants increases and they deepen their
search for a satisfying way of life, competition increases and conflict arises within each
group due to the level of immigration. However, when the level of immigration declines
the resources for the minority ethnic group are closed due to the understanding of the
abandonment of one-side demand in order to accommodate all groups.
A mutual understanding relation then arises as a result of usually the group with less
power withdrawing into particular niches of occupation; they separate themselves and do
not longer fight for power as they have to accept low level positions in the stratification
system. In the accommodation phase, a division between ethnic lines and occupation
arises due to the previous phase of conflict, and it becomes a circle. Later on, this structure
becomes acceptable since it is not questioned and it becomes a legitimate order without
direct discrimination.
The information collected has helped for the education and in-depth understanding of the
issues with Ethnic and Market Segmentation. However, the author noticed that Ostroff

38
(1994), provided valid information in regards to the issues that companies face with ethnic
segmentation, but lacked on providing information in regards to the African segment in
America or UK. The author recognises this as a gap on Ostroff research, due to the
examples being effective only for the Hispanic ethnic.
The author believes that the African segmentation was neglected by Ostroff (1994), as the
African segmentation it’s to believe to be as high as Hispanics.
In other hand, Eztel (1997) was successful with its extensive comparison of White and the
Black population in America, it enables the reader to understand the difference between
their expending patterns. Robert E.Park (1950) further explores the concept of ethnic
segmentation and its relation with immigration. It enables the author to have a further
deeper understanding of the different meaning of immigration.

39
Chapter 3: Methodology
This chapter presents the research methodology, approach and design that was be carried
out by the researcher. The author made use of Online Surveys, Telephone Interviews, and
Face-to-Face interviews in order to obtain detailed information.
In this section, inductive and deductive philosophical approaches will be explained and a
justification towards the research methods used will be provided which includes; Mixed
methods, questionnaires and interviews.
3.1 Research Approach
“Methodology is the study of methods and it raises all sorts of philosophical questions
about what it is possible for researchers to know and how valid their claims to knowledge
might be.” (Fisher, 04).
Inductive approach allows for small samples of subjects to be carried on, it is concerned
with the situation in which such events takes place unlike deduction approach.
Researchers who use this approach are more likely to use a qualitative approach as well
as using a variety of methods to gather data in order to establish different views of
phenomena (Easterby-Smith et al. 2008). The choices that researchers take for their
research proposal are important due to the following:
 It allows the researcher to take a more informed decision in regards to research
design.
 It helps the researcher to think appropriate research strategies and choices.

40
 An understanding of the research approaches enables the researcher to adapt their
design to any constraints that might arise (Easterby-Smith et al. 2008).
The difference between deductive and inductive approaches were summarised as follow;
deduction highlights scientific principles which moves from theory to data; data is
collected in a quantitative form. There’s a constant need to explain the relationship
between two variables as well as the application of control to ensure data collected is
valid. A sizable sample is needed in order to generalise the conclusions when carrying out
the research. Inductive approach focuses on gaining an understanding of the meanings
humans attach to events and by doing this, qualitative data is collected; it allows for a
flexible structure to be carried out as changes could occur. A closer understanding of the
research context is gained and there is less concerns with the need of generalising
(Saunders at al, 2009).
Inductive approach involves collecting data and developing a theory as a result of the
information examined, whereas deductive approach involves developing a theory as well
as a hypothesis to test the theory (Saunders et al, 2009). For the purpose of this research
inductive approach will be applied as the author recognised that a small sample of women
would be surveyed and theory could be developed from research.
3.2 Research Philosophy
Exploratory studies are used to find out “what’s happening at present; to seek new insight;
to ask question and to assess phenomena in a new light” (Saunders et al, 2009). The author
recognised exploratory philosophy as suitable for the research carried out as there was a

41
need to understand how African women felt about the African hair care market in
Glasgow and how Salons try to fit those needs.
There are three principal ways of conducting exploratory research:
1. Through literature
2. Interviewing specialists in the subject
3. Conducting focus groups interview
The author carried out an exploratory research by interviewing African customers and
gaining insight information in regards to the challenges they face. The managers of an
African and Non-African Salon were interviewed in order to find out if they trained their
hairstylist into the Natural Hair products and African hair care. The author tried to discover
how did African women in the West End of Glasgow felt with the lack of advertisement
done towards the Afro-Caribbean hair market and how Department Stores and Salons
tried to meet their needs.
According to (Saunders et al, 2009) exploratory studies allows for flexibility of questions.
New collection of data is part of this study and due to its nature, it could change the
direction of the research.
3.3 Research Methods
Research methods are used since it’s “a particular way of studying something in order to
discover new information about it or understand it better” (Cambridge University, 2015).

42
3.3.1 Sampling
“Sampling techniques provides a range of methods that enable you to reduce the amount
of data you need to collect considering only data from a sub-group rather than all possible
cases or elements is also less costly in regards to time effort and finance” (Saunders et al,
2009).
The author sampled 21 African women residing at the West side of Glasgow. The reason
why they were selected was due to convenience as the majority of African women
purchased their hair products at Great Western Road, Maryhill and City centre. 1 African
Salon and 1 Non-African Salon at Glasgow City centre were selected as the majority of
African women often went to a hair Salon to get their hair done and City centre seemed
appropriate for the researcher purpose. The author was able to collect vital information
which helped to answer the research question.
The advantages of this method are the quickness and the availability with which
information can be collected, the disadvantages of this method is that information
collected will not representative of the entire population since the researcher is focusing
on African women who reside at the West part of Glasgow (Saunders et al, 2009).
Refer to Appendix 5 for more information about Sources of Literature Review
Saunders et al (2009) highlights the three main sources of Literature
The level of detail and authority of publications tends to decline as we move from primary
to tertiary sources. Primary literature is often available online which makes it easier for

43
people to access information, since it has not been through the referencing process; “Is
collected for the purpose at hand” (Kotler et al, 1999). Secondary sources are authoritative
like journals, newspapers which are aimed to a wider audience. It has the advantages of
being less costly and less time consuming when being compared to primary sources.
Tertiary sources are designed to find both primary and secondary information such as
indexes (Saunders et al, 2012).
3.3.2 Qualitative and Quantitative Research Methods
Research is often categorised as either quantitative or qualitative but both techniques
could be used. The author made us of mixed methods to draw conclusions from data
analysed from the Online, Telephone and Face to Face interviews that were carried out.
Tashakkori & Teddlie (2003), suggest that by combining both quantitative and qualitative
research methods, the researcher will be able to produce great results from the research.
Qualitative
This approach typically involves non-numerical data collected by techniques such as
interviews and analysis using a variety of non-statistical methods. Qualitative information
will allow the researcher to obtained detailed information as well as flexibility of asking
specific questions, since people’s attitudes and concerns will be shown in regards to the
research objectives. In-depth interviews, focus groups and face to face interviews were
considered since it will provide the researcher with up to date information. The researcher
has control on keeping the interview in order and encouraging participants to answer
questions. Qualitative data allows theory to be drawn from the findings; it includes both
deductive and inductive approaches.

44
Relationships between categories can be identified as well as categorising the responses
from participants (Saunders et al, 2009). The disadvantage of qualitative data is that
usually fewer people are studied, it is time consuming to gather information. Due to this
aspect, the author decided to use a small sample. Generalisation is less effective since
fewer people are being studied and it cannot be factual in regards to the population as
exact numbers will be reported. It is also difficult to make systematic comparisons as
participants could give different responses (Learn higher, 2008).
Quantitative
This type of data is always raw, until the information gained is processed and analysed.
Statistics, graphs and charts allows data to be described, explored and presented, it allows
for the studying of the relationships and trends of the data collected. Data could range
from prices, frequency of occurrence, test scores or rental costs.
In order for information to be useful, data has to be correctly analysed and interpreted,
relationships could be drawn due to comparisons (Saunders et al, 2009). The disadvantage
of quantitative data is that false representations could be drawn, it could represent the
reflection of the researcher instead of participants via use of standardised questions. The
answers that participants provide might not reflect how they feel at present towards a
subject, results are limited and it could be less effective to provide detailed information
since it’s collected on a numerical format (Learn higher, 2008).
The author made use of Quantitative and Qualitative research on the Online Survey, it was
thought that by using this methods further information and new knowledge could be

45
discovered from online participants. The researcher made use of Open questions to allow
respondents to answer questions with more depth. Online Survey allows for numerical
and in-depth information to be analysed which will enable the researcher to have a better
understanding of the issues being faced by African women’s hair market in Glasgow. The
author considered sending e-mails to the African segment in the West End of Glasgow.
However, the researcher thought that it was no realistic since there was not about time
left to gather participant’s emails.
The researcher thought of using Face-to-Face interviews after unsuccessful attempts of
trying to involve African Salons and Non-African Salons into an Online Survey and
Telephone Interview. Therefore, the author opted to interview Salons Face-to-Face since
it was discovered that important and vital information would be collected within 10
minutes. Mature African women had difficulty on assessing the Online Survey due to work
schedule and of no knowledge of answer questions in Survey Money, which is the survey
that the author used. Therefore, the author decided that it was best to carry out Telephone
Interviews to the older segment, a time schedule was created in order to ensure that
detailed information was collected.
Qualitative information was used to contact participants via Face-to-Face and Telephone
interview, this method was chosen due to the nature of the research and it benefited the
researcher since relationships were built and participants provided vital information for
the purpose of the research. The author intended for the Telephone and Face-to-Face
interviews to take a period of 3 to 4 days.

46
3.3.4 Questionnaires
According to (Saunders et al, 2009). Diverse questions types may be used within an
interview. One section may ask common set of factual questions, while in another a
qualitative approach may be used to explore responses.
The researcher will therefore use mixed method approach to validate findings.
3.3.5 Semi-structured interviews
Semi-structured interviews allow for the researcher to cover their theme or questions
before the interview takes place. This method allows the researcher to change questions
as the interview goes along. Therefore, the number of questions asked to participants
might vary and additional questions might be included in order to explore the research
question, thus enabling for audio recorders and note taking due to the nature of the
conversation (Saunders et al, 2009).
The advantages of semi-structure interviews is that the information gathered will be
relevant to the topic, the participants are targeted specifically, the interview will be
structured in a way to allow the interviewer to compare results, it allows for general
opinions or views to be explore freely and could be used for sensitive topics.
The disadvantages of this technique, is that the researcher has to be skilled into carrying
out interviews, enough people have to be interviewed in order to make general
comparisons, questions have to be planned carefully so that it does not seem leading and
it can be time consuming as well as resource intensive. The researcher has to ensure

47
confidentiality of the information collected as well as skills to be able to analyse data
collected (Scot NHS).
It is the author’s purpose is to be able to question participants with various questions in
regards to the Hair beauty care of African women and the issues they face. The author
recognised that certain questions might have to be removed in order to adjust the
questions to the “conversation” with individuals. The author intended for the interviews
to last between 4 to 5 days.
3.3.6 In-depth interviews
In-depth interviews are used by researchers in order to discover information from
participants. This methods does not require the researcher to have a set of questions prior
to the interview. Nevertheless, the researcher must have a clear idea of the aspects they
intend to cover. (Saunders et al, 2009).
Advantages of this method involves the in-depth information that participants provide
towards their values, opinions and attitudes as well as adjustment of questions.
Disadvantages of this method is that only a small number of interviews can be done, since
its time consuming and findings could be different from one another. Also results could
not be representative from a particular population due to the use of a small sample
(University of Portsmouth, 2010).
The author intended to use in-depth interviews for African and Non-African hair Salons.
The author was aware that Salons tend to be busy and it was important to make use of
the time given by the manager from selected stores. A more conversational tone was

48
used, in order to obtain detailed information in regards to Hair Salon’s attitudes towards
African hair care products.
3.3.7 Telephone Interview
Telephone interviews offer advantages for the researchers, because it allows for verbal
contact with the selected sample to take place.
Advantages of this method includes the access, speed and lower cost; it enables the
researcher to contact participants from afar once a level of trust has been established
(Saunders et al, 2009). The author is able to explore participant’s answers due to the non-
standardised method.
Disadvantages of this method is that participants might not be willing to engage as much
or refuse to take part. The researcher is unable to see participant’s facial expressions, and
time is limited. Therefore, note taking and timing are essential (Saunders et al, 2009).
The author made Telephone calls to 4 participants who agreed to be part of the sample.
This method was used on mature African women who reside at the West End of Glasgow
due to their work schedule convenience. The author intended for this method to take up
to a day in order to gather accurate information. However, time schedules were allocated
during participant’s break times at work.

49
3.3.8 Online Survey
Morgan and Symon (2004) used the term electronic interviews to refer to the interviews
being held in real time through the use of the internet (Saunders et al, 2009).
Online interviews provide a wide range of advantages for the researcher undertaking this
method. It allows for the sample of people or population in a geographical area to take
part in the process. The software automatically records, as the questions are answered
which results to less cost, time and accuracy is less concerning, as results can be analysed
from the interviewer desktop.
Disadvantages of this method is that ethical issues have to be considered. Web
conferencing allows for an Offline interview to take place, but the issues of using a Web
cam is that when carrying out a group or one-to-one interviews, participants might not
have the software required or their desktop might not be compatible with the program.
The author used Online Surveys for the young African women residing at the West End of
Glasgow. The researcher made use of Survey Monkey in order to make the survey easy to
access as the targeted segments all had accessibility and knowledge of Survey Monkey.
The researcher tried to target the mature African women with the use of Online Surveys.
However, not a lot of responses from that segment were collected. Therefore, the author
opted to use Telephone Interview for that segment since it was convenient.

50
The author estimated for the Online Survey to take up to 2 to 3 days in order to gather
accurate information.
3.3.9 Open question
Open questions enables respondents to reply with more depth and lengthier answers
unlike close questions, which often involves a “yes” or “no” only type of answer.
The advantages of this method is that there are no limits to participant’s answers, it allows
for new findings to be discovered and detailed information to be obtained from
participants. Disadvantage of open questions is that answers from participants might be
irrelevant and it could be a waste of time to undertake analysis and comparison (Saunders
et al, 2009).
The author decided to use Open questions rather than Closed questions since it is
important to discover new and relevant information that was not thought of or found on
the literature review. Open questions were use in the Online Survey, Telephone and Face-
to-Face interview.
3.4 Limitations
3.4.1 Focus Groups
Focus interviews refer to the way a researcher is able to direct the way in which an
interview will be carried out.
This method allows participants to interact and discuss with one another, it usually
involves 10 or fewer individuals consisting of volunteers. Participants might be

51
encouraged to try a product or to react to a particular picture, film, or show that they have
just viewed; all the participants are observed and studied on focus groups. However,
participants are carefully selected since they will need to have a common ground in
relation to the researcher’s topic (Saunders et al, 2009).
The advantages of this method is that reactions from participants can be easily measured,
the disadvantages includes the lack of in-depth information provided by individuals since
they might not express their honest opinions or they might not have time to do so (Small
business, 2015).
The author took into consideration the use of focus groups. However, the author did not
have enough time or finance to undertake this method. Also participants did not want
their names to be included or known in the interview process, which is the reason why
focus groups were avoided.
3.4.2 Reflections
The researcher decided to gain in-depth information from Online Survey, Telephone and
Face- to-Face interviews which enable the researcher to obtain participants views and
opinions as well as of new knowledge. The author considered the constraints of targeting
mature working African women by the use of Online Survey. It was noticed that Mature
African women were not as online user friend as the young African women residing at the
West End of Glasgow.
The researcher intended to gain primary information by the use of Semi-structured and
In-depth interviews. The author was successful in doing so since, a wide range of new
information was gained by participants and as this method allowed for a natural

52
conversational tone to arise as well as of change of questions, it enables the author to
change the questions accordingly to the way in which the flow of communication turned;
The researcher did keep the focus in the topic and the participants followed.
The Online Survey carried out by the researcher worked effectively for the young African
women. The young women were between the ages of 18 to 23, the majority of those
women were students.
The researcher thought that mature African women would have had an idea or time to
answer the Online Survey, but it proved the researcher wrong. Therefore, the author
opted for Telephone interviews for this segment which worked effectively, women were
between the ages of 30 to 40+.
The author purpose was to survey 2 different African and Non-African Salons, this was
unsuccessful due to Managers being absent from their work place. Therefore only 1
African and Non-African Salons were able to be interviewed by the use of Face-to-Face
interview.

53
Chapter 4: Findings
This chapter presents the findings of the primary research carried by the author. Two
different Online Surveys were carried out, in order to obtain detailed information from
participants. Young and Matured African Women residing at the West side of Glasgow
undertook the interviews. In the first online survey, basic information in regards to African
women’s attitudes are explored and in the second online survey, primary information is
provided in regards to their opinion towards the lack of marketing done to the growing
African Hair market in Glasgow.
This is followed by the 4 Telephone interviews carried out by the researcher, participants
would be described as Participants A, B, and C, D. In the first Online Survey a total of 16
responses were collected from both young and matured African women. On the second
online survey 13 responses were collected from African women residing at the West side
of Glasgow.
As mentioned earlier only 1 African and Non-African Salons were able to be interviewed
due to the nature of the Manager’s schedule. Detailed information will be provided in
regards to Manager’s views of the African hair market.

54
4.1 Findings from Online Survey
Q1. Attitudes towards African Hair and Make-up products in Glasgow
What is your age?
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
18 to 21 22 to 25 26 to 29 30 to 33 34 to 38 39 to 43 44 to 50
NumberofRespondents
Age Range

55
What is your current occupations?
Are the Hair & Make up products that you purchase available in Glasgow?
62.50 % purchased their hair products in Glasgow, 18.75% did not purchase their products
in Glasgow and 18.75 % has no idea if the products were available in Glasgow.
Do you go to Non-African Salons to style your hair?
Student , 75%
Unemployed,
6.25%
Employed ,
18.75%
RESPONDENTS

56
Which Make-up brand do you use?
The highest Make-up brand was Mac with 8 participants using the product, followed by
Mary K with 3 participants, Bobby Brown with 2, L’Oreal with 2, MUA with 2, Clinique with
2, L.A Colours with 2 participants. Make-up brands that were not as included: Sleek,
Chanel, Maybelline, Rimmel, YSL, Smashbox, Opal, Revlon, Lancôme and Collection.
Do you purchase African hair beauty products Online?
33.60% of respondents answered YES and 62.50 % answered NO.
What African hair brands do you use?
The most popular hair brand from 5 out of 12 respondents was Expressions hair brand,
whereas the rest of participants used Olive Oil, Dark and Lovely, Eco styler African pride,
ORS, Cantu, Hollywood beauty and Roots.
Do you go to African hair Salons to style your Hair?
43.75% of respondents answered YES 56.25% answered NO
YES NO I DON'T KNOW
Participants 62.50% 18.75% 18.75%
0.0%
10.0%
20.0%
30.0%
40.0%
50.0%
60.0%
70.0%
Participants

57
Do they Shampoo and condition your hair with sulphate free products?
12.50 % of respondents answered YES and 87.50% answered NO.
What style do you currently have?
56.25% of respondents answered natural protective style, 31.25% answered wigs, weave
style and 12.50% had a relaxed hair style.
Q2. Marketing to Africa women’s hair
Do you trust hairdressers to style your Hair?
Responses:
4 out of 13 participants answered YES and the rest of participants had mixed feeling or they
explained why they would trust a hairstylist.
“I only trust one hairdresser as she understands my hair and she knows how to manage
it. Other Hair Salons do not pay attention to what I'm saying which is the reason why I
prefer the Nigerian stylist that I go to in Queens Margaret drive”
“I only trust one hairdresser, because she's the only one who can get my hair done on
time and takes very well care of my hair. I wouldn't go to other hairdressers as I had bad
experiences from a Glasgow African Salon due to negligence from the hairstylist. “
If the prices for African hair styles were to decrease would you consider going to a Hair
Salon?
Responses:

58
6 out of 13 respondents answered YES, and the rest of the participants made comments
as to why they would go.
“I presently go to a Hair Salon it will be better if the price decreased since I would have to
pay less. But I wouldn't go to other Hair Salons if they change their price.”
“Yes, I will continue to stick to the one I go to now for the same hairstylist. Since she does
my hair very well”
“Yes definitely African Hair Salon, if the prices decreased as people in Glasgow are charging
ridiculous prices for something my girl or cousins can do for me at home free”
Would you consider going to an African Saloon or a “normal Salon”?
All respondents answered that they would prefer to go an African Salon. One responded
provided a mixed feedback and other respondents provided explanations.
“Normal Salons do not have the experience and understanding of African Hair care. I took
my son to a normal Salon to wash his hair and they ended up straighten his hair when it
was not what I asked for.”
“African Salon, because they know my hair style. I took my son to get his hair done on a
normal Salon. He has afro hair and they ended up straight instead of as it was before which
was curly”
Have you ever relaxed your hair in a Salon?

59
Did you have any side effects, if so which side effects did you have?
7 out of 13 respondents did not have any side effect while relaxing their hair. However
the rest of the respondents had the following side effects;
“My scalp was burned because I forgot to add Vaseline to my scalp as well as following
the instructions.”
“Burn, irritation it was very painful. In my own because I kept it own for too long and I did
not use Vaseline. African Salon, burned my hair with a straighter. They told me I shouldn't
had moved. In Glasgow. She was not pain attention”
Have you ever been rejected from a hair Salon because they didn’t have any expertise on
your hair type? State why?
YES NO
Respondents 61.54% 38.46%
0.0%
10.0%
20.0%
30.0%
40.0%
50.0%
60.0%
70.0%
Respondents

60
Respondents did not receive any rejection from any of the Salons.
If companies in Glasgow started to provide more natural hair products in Department
stores at a cheaper rate like Boots, Superdrug. Would you consider purchasing a hair
product in their store?
All respondents answered YES and some gave explanations:
“Yes!!! I am all about 'Natural' Hair & Skin Ingredients but I think you should sell them
yourself in your own salon & make the money from it. Don’t advertise or see you’ll
products through these big companies. Personal opinion”
“I would go to Superdrug’s, because they have cheaper Olive oil products and I also think
that they need to increase their marketing awareness. Since not a lot of people knows
about it unlike 10 to 20 years ago in Glasgow where obviously there was not a lot of African
people. But companies should take advantage of it now and start to promote it well”
“I presently purchase olive oil products in Superdrug since it's cheaper than in an African
store. However, I would probably buy more product in Department stores”
Do you think there in enough advertisement done in Glasgow through TV, magazines,
social media towards the African segment and African Hair products?
All respondents answered that there are not enough advertisement done;
“No! Not at all. African hair is hardly acknowledged at all in Glasgow. It is only ever
acknowledged by the few African-Caribbean hair salons”
“No. but everything has to do with demand. If people want then these companies will
have no choice but to direct to a new audience.”

61
Refer to Appendix 6 for full responses
4.1.1. Telephone Interview
The researcher interviewed 4 participants on a phone interview and Open conversation
with in-depth/semi structure was developed. Below there are examples of the questions
asked to participants:
 What is your Age?
 What is your current Occupation?
 Are the Hair and Make-up products that you purchase available in Glasgow?
 Do you go to Caucasian Salons to style your Hair?
 Do you purchase African Hair products Online?
 What Hair brands do you use?
 Do you go to African Salons to style your Hair?
 What Hair style do you currently have?
 Do you trust Hairdressers to style your Hair?
 Would you consider going to a Caucasian Hair Salon or an African Salon?
 Have you ever relaxed your Hair in a Salon or at Home?
 Where do you purchase your Hair products?
 Have you ever felt uncomfortable entering a Caucasian Salon?
 Do you think there is enough marketing done towards the African Hair segment in
Glasgow?
 Would you consider purchasing your Hair products in Department stores if their
offered them?

62
Participant A
“I do not buy products online, but I use Brazilian hair. I do purchase my products in
Glasgow stores at Great western road because is cheaper. No, I have not relaxed my hair
on a Salon because I use a wig. I do not use any creams but I use palm oil. “
“I prefer African hair salons, because they understand our hair products unlike Caucasian
Salons. I see white people doing their Hair on African Salons because African people know
it better. Yes, I would consider going to Department stores since it’s more local and they
are available around my area.”
Participant B
“Yes I only trust a specific Hair dresser, one who comes to my house. In an African Salon
they were not listening to me. I don’t trust other hairstylist, I have relaxed my hair on a
salon- I have not had any bad side I do buy products online- from America or London. In
Glasgow I have not been rejected from a hair Salon.
Participant C
“I use a weave- no relaxed hair in a year. The first time I relaxed my hair was in Ghana and
I end up with sores on my scalp. I used Dark and Lovely hair products which I purchased
in Boots, I think its Sulphate free. Through the relaxer problem I had in Ghana I became
aware of products containing Sulphate being bad for African’s hair”
“An independent lady does my hair, I don’t do Salons because they charge the use of the
premises and Savoy centre charges £60 for a hairstyle and they don’t do any
advertisement. I wouldn’t go to a Caucasian Salon, because it will be expensive- if they

63
were to decrease their price it will be interesting to do my hair if they know how to do
African hair.
Participant D
“I’m a natural hair, have been transitioning for the past year. As a protective style I use
African kinky-pick and drop for work or placement to look professional. However, I do
wear a wig when going out. I relaxed my hair a long time ago but I don’t do it anymore
because my scalp get burns at times. “
“I relaxed my hair at the African Salon and on my own, I use Herbal and Essence when
washing my hair since it’s a natural leave in conditioner. I use Curls unleash Organic
products and I purchase them at the African Shops-Savoy Centre- from Great Western
Road. “
Refer to Appendix 7 for full responses
4.1.2 Surveys for African and Non-African Salons
The researcher decided to Interview 2 Salons by the use of a recorder, as it was thought
to be the quickest way to gain responses from participants as well as of note taking.
African Salon Survey
Salon 1
The researcher asked the Manager in regards to the Hair products they provided and if
they also have products that contain natural products since there is a need for Sulphate
free products for the Afro-Caribbean hair market:

64
“The Salon does provide Hair beauty products such as extensions and weaves. We also do
cornrows and do treat Natural hair African women’s hair. However, the products that we
have are limited since the majority of our customer’s buy products from the Shops across,
since they have an extensive range. From there the customer can come back with their
product of their choice and we can apply it to their hair”
The researcher questioned the manager in regards to the relaxed hair products they used
for the African’s women scalp:
“We do have two relaxers that we use, but we do not know or we are not aware that they
are Sulphate free. We have Olive Oil and Pink for relaxing hair. The majority of times we
do apply Vaseline to the women’s hair since it can burn the women scalp at times”
The researcher asked the manager if she was aware of how long did the relaxer had to
stay in the hair:
“We leave the relaxer in the Hair as long as possible since the longer we leave it the best
results we would have for the customer. Also we do Hair Style to all ethnic’s not only
African women as we have noticed the increase of Caucasian customer’s coming into our
store”
Refer to Appendix 8 for further information

65
Non-African Salons Survey
Salon 1
The researcher asked the Manager in regards to the Hair products they provide and if they
also have products that contain natural products since there is a need for Sulphate free
products:
“We have products that are of High end market and well known by our customers. The
products we used are used for mainly; to hold customer’s hair, to ensure that there is
brightness and avoid the hair being stock or stiff. The majority of our customers are
Caucasian.
The researcher asked the Manager if they have trained their Hairstylist in Afro-Caribbean
hair:
“We have not had the need to train our staff into Afro-Caribbean hair since where we are
situated as well as the type of customers we markets, it’s more directly to the Caucasian
market. Since as mentioned earlier those are the customers who will have less problems
in regards to the type of products used in their hair since they will be more interested on
making their hair fabulous. However, there has been a growing demand for natural hair
products but it is still on a thinking process since we also have customers who come with
Hair loss and while carrying out our research we have found out that natural hair products
do help a lot with the scalp”
Refer to Appendix 9 for further information

66
Chapter 5: Analysis
The author’s purpose was to discover how African women residing at Glasgow West End
felt towards the lack of marketing done to the Afro-Caribbean natural hair segment, and
how African and Non-African Salon tried to satisfy their market needs/wants.
This chapter will analyse and draw conclusions from findings, literature review and
secondary research carried out by the researcher. It will be analysed in order to examine
the effectiveness of the researcher conducted.
Findings Analysis
5.1 African population growth
Primary information gained from research, demonstrated African women awareness on
the increase of the African population in Glasgow throughout the years. One respondent
made a comparison in relation to Department stores providing natural hair products;
“I would go to Superdrug, unlike 10 to 20 years ago in Glasgow where obviously there was
not a lot of African people”.
In relation to the literature review carried out, under Population; the size of the ethnic
minority population in Scotland rapidly increased, predominantly the African population.
Primary research suggested that Department Stores have been unable to market to the
Afro-Caribbean hair market.

67
According to Employability Scotland 2014, the African population grew rapidly from 5,000
in 2001 to 30,000 in 2011, the growth was mainly due to immigration from families and
students studying over in Scotland and later acquiring a job or staying permanently.
The author’s Online and Telephone survey, showed that 75% of respondents were
students, 18.75% and 4 Telephone participants were employed. This result agrees with
the literature review carried out, since the majority of African’s migrating to Glasgow from
the author’s sample were employees and students.
5.2 African women Department store convenience
According to (Colour Cosmetics, 2014) Department stores should be able to take
advantage from the growing Afro-Caribbean hair segment. Primary information gained
from research, displayed names of Department stores that African women purchase their
hair products from;
“I purchase Olive Oil from Sainsbury’s because is close to my house”
“I used Dark and Lovely hair products which I purchased in Boots”
“I purchase Olive Oil from TESCO”
Furthermore, primary researcher revealed that African women purchase their natural hair
products from local and convenient stores like: Superdrug, Sainsbury’s, Tesco and Boots.
However, it was discovered that mature African women prefer to purchase hair products
from Department stores due to convenience;

68
“I would consider going to Department stores since it’s more local and they are available
around my area.”
“I purchase Olive Oil from Sainsbury’s because is close to my house”
“I presently purchase olive oil products in Superdrug since it's cheaper than in an African
store. However, I would probably buy more products in Department stores”
“I would go to Superdrug’s, because they have cheaper Olive oil products”
Literature review suggest that trends in pension age and divorce rate have made mature
African women, a key consumer group for colour cosmetics, encouraging beauty brands
to use older women in their marketing and advertising (Fashionista, 2014).
In order to discover young African women purchasing preference, the author carried out
an online survey, results showed that 62.50% would prefer to purchase natural hair
products from Department stores and 33.60% preferred to purchase their natural hair
products Online. Results demonstrates that Department stores could effectively take
advantage of the Afro-Caribbean hair market.
5.3 Department Stores lack of Marketing to the African segment in Glasgow
The term multicultural marketing refers to targeting and communicating to ethnic
minority groups in cultural diverse societies (Cui, 1997).

69
Literature review demonstrates how Department stores like Boots, Primark and
Superdrug had begun to stock natural hair products on their shelves. However, they
showed a lack of marketing activity towards the Afro-Caribbean segment in Glasgow.
Through secondary research the author was able to discover Superdrug “Black hair care”
category from the company’s website:
(Superdrug, 2015).
Primary research carried out on participants showed that they were unaware of
Superdrug wide range of Afro-Caribbean hair products;
“Superdrug should do more advertisement. I did not know that they provide African hair
products besides sleek make-up and Mary k”
“Thanks for letting me know, I had no idea that they provided African Hair Natural
products. I will check their online website. However they should definitely do more
promotion since it’s highly needed”

70
In order to discover if African women felt that there was not enough marketing done
towards the growing Afro-Caribbean hair segment. The author carried out an online
survey in order to obtain detailed information;
“No! Not at all. African hair is hardly acknowledged at all in Glasgow. It is only ever
acknowledged by the few African-Caribbean hair salons”
“There is quite a relevant amount but not enough. African shops hair beauty health
products people do not get the recognition they should. Because it is the best products
externally & internally.”
“They don't advertise it. They should cater for the African market as they have a big
community now”
The author identified Superdrug lack of marketing as a weakness, because they do not
seem to have intentions of marketing to the African natural hair segment at the West end
of Glasgow. Literature review states that if a company is unable to market to multicultural
Britain, it should extremely evaluate its ability to market globally (Burton, 2002).
Primary research demonstrated that the African women surveyed were unaware of
Superdrug ability to offer natural hair products. Literature review states that “Ethnic
marketing signifies an opportunity to differentiate a company’s offering in the saturated
market place and to develop new products” (Think ethnic, 2012).

71
Primary information reveals once again that, Department stores should be able to tailor
their message to their targeted segment. Superdrug seems to have an idea of the growing
African market in Glasgow, but they don’t seem to know how to target the African natural
hair segment. Literature review suggest that the theory is to enable consumers to see
themselves in the advertisement or something they can relate to (Wise geek, 2003-2015).
5.4 African Salon awareness on the African hair
Primary information gained from the Manager of an African Salon at (Savoy centre),
demonstrated that a sense of community encourages Africans to help each other and
return for further service. Literature review agrees with such statement, Russell and
Russell (2010) discovered that when an ethic group identity is strong, people will put more
emphasis on activities which will benefit their group;
“The products that we have are limited since the majority of our customer’s buy products
from the Shops across, since they have an extensive range. From there the customer can
come back with their product of their choice and we can apply it to their hair”
Literature review suggest that “Ethnic marketing tries to use special tactics that are
designed to attract the selected segment’s attention” (Burton, 2002). In order to prove
the literature review valid, the author carried out primary information to prove its validity
from the Manager of the African Salon;

72
“We are aware of the increase of the African community in Glasgow, which is the reason
why Savoy has 3 African Salons in it. I think that the fact that we also have a store in which
all African and Caucasian customers can purchase a product of their choice, we are just
generating profit for all of us”
Furthermore, the author intended to test the knowledge of the African Salon’s manager
in regards to Sulphate hair products for the African scalp. Literature describes how
dangerous products containing Sulphate can be for Afro-Caribbean scalp “. Result can be
as bad as the images below:
African Salon, burned my hair with a straighter. They told me I shouldn't had moved. In
Glasgow. She was not pain attention”
The Manager from the African Salon answered as follow;

73
“We do have two relaxers that we use, but we do not know or we are not aware that they
are Sulphate free”
The author believes that African Salons should have had a better idea of products
containing Sulphate. However, the Manager’s response demonstrates that not only
Department Stores are unaware of the damages that products containing Sulphate can
cause to the Afro-Caribbean scalp, but also the selected African Salon was also unaware
of the damages that it can cause.
Literature review obtained suggest that hair loss is epidemic among African-American
women of all ages, Afro-Textured hair is drier, has more breakage and some hairstyles
could stress the scalp (Thegrio, 2012). The Manager of the African Salon describes how
she hired her employees:
“The people I hire do inform me and tell me about their background as a Hairstylist. So I
first give them a trial and see their potential if I like what they do and if the client is satisfied
then I hire them depending on their availability”.
Primary information shows that hairstylist from the selected African Salon are not trained
or educated into the Afro-Caribbean hair. The author believes that such hiring methods
could damage the image of a Salon since not all customers are the same. As demonstrated
in the Interviews carried out;

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