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Digging into the roots of
Tequila
Moderated by Elayne Duff
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PANELIST
Enrique De Colsa
Amy Stewart
Miguel Cedano Cruz
Don Lee
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ENRIQUE DE COLSA
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AMY STEWART
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MIGUEL CEDENO CRUZ
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DON LEE
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MR. TOMAS ESTES
If we want to have a good hamburger we will
want to start with good meat from a well
bread, well cared for cow.
The same applies to starting with
raw material for Tequila
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THE AGAVE
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THE AGAVE
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WHERE SOMETHING COMES
FROM MATTERS!
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AGAVE REGIONS
Tequila and agave are produced in a defined
geographical region including 5 states. Jalisco
produces more than 90% of total volume.
Guanajuato (7)
Tamaulipas
(11)
Nayarit (8)
Jalisco (all)
Michoacán (30)
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Lowland
4,200-5,200 ft
Highland
5,700-6,700 ft
JALISCO LOWLANDS AND HIGHLANDS
Temperature, soil, altitude, rain fall and natural
factors are in part responsible for agave
development.
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Characteristic Units Lowlands Highlands
Altitude m 1900-2400 1900
Main soil composition Volcanic soil Rich in iron
Average temperature °C 23 19
Maximum temperature °C 32 30
Minimum temperature °C 15 7
pH Acid Acid
Rainfall mm 1070 890
Freeze days days 0.4 32
Soil Composition
Chromic and vertic
luvisols, Eutric
regosol and Luvic
phaeozem
Ferric luvisol,
Eutric fluvisol,
Haplic phaeozem
and Planosol
Soil organic matter Low Medium
Tequila general aromas
and flavor
Spicer, earthier,
herbal
Fruity, sweet,
citrus and floral
Soil characteristics for Lowlands and Highlands
JALISCO LOWLANDS AND
HIGHLANDS
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CONDITIONS FOR AGAVE
CULTIVATION
VARIABLE OPTIMUS SUB - OPTIMUS MARGINAL
Night temperature, °C 11 to 21 -1 to 11 and 21 to 28 <-1 and >28
Freeze probability, % 10% >10%
Altitude, msnm 1,00 to 2,200
600 to 1,00 and 2,200
to 2,500
<600 and
>2,500
Soil slope, % 2 to 8 1 to 2 and 8 to 45 <1 and >45
Rain fall, mm 600 to 1,500 1,500 to 1,800 <600 to 1,800
Perez, D. J.F. and Del Real, L. J.I. Conocimiento y practicas agronomicas para la produccion de
Agave tequilana Weber en la zona de Denominacion de Origen Tequila (2007)
CONDITIONS REQUIRED FOR Agave tequilana CULTIVATION
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TEMPERATURES IN
JALISCO REGIONS
There are municipalities that are could be
optimum but sub-optimum or marginal in some of
them.
Lowland
s
Highland
s
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HIGHLANDS TEMPERATURE
AND RAINFALL
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CO2 UPTAKE IN HIGHLANDS
CO2 uptake in the
highlands at different time
of day for several months.
As agave is a CAM plant
CO2 assimilation is during
the night.
Pimienta-Barrios, E. et. Al. Respuesta fisiologica a factores
ambientales del agave azul (A. tequilana Weber) Scientia-
CUCBA 7(2): 85-97 (2005)
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TASTING
Lowland vs Highland Agave Hearts
Lowland Blanco 1
&
Highland Blanco 1
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PLANTING
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AGAVE REPRODUCTION
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AGAVE DNA
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AGAVE DNA
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AGAVE DNA
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AGAVE DNA
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AGAVE DNA
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AGAVE DNA
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AGAVE DNA
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AGAVE DNA
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AGAVE DNA
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HARVESTING
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HARVESTING
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HARVESTING
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INFLUENCES OF MAN
AGAVE INSPECTION
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AGAVE INSPECTION
ROASTING
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MILLING
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NEW TECHNOLOGY
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THE DIFFUSER
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DIFFUSER
Sugar or Inulin
concentration
gradient between
bagasse, Cb and
water, Cw is used to
extract from agave.
Bagass
e Cb,n Step n
Water
Cw,n
Juice
Cw,n-1
Step
n-1
Bagass
e Cb,n-1 Step 1
Juice
Cw,1
Agave (Raw or
cooked) Cb,1
Step 2
Juice Cw,
2
Bagass
e Cb, 2
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
Concentraciondeazucares
Etapa en el difusor
Azucaresen el Agua y en el Bagazo
BAGAZO, Cb
AGUA, Cw
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DIFFUSER
1. Inulin
extraction from
raw agave, using
hot water, and
then a hydrolysis
step.
Juice to
hydrolysis
Raw agave bagasse
Knife
mill
Heat
Exchanger
Chain mill
Diffuser
Raw
agave
Hot
water
Steam
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DIFFUSER
Juice to
fermentation
Cooked agave
bagasse
Knife
mill
Chain mill
Diffuser
Cooked
agave
Room
temperature
water
2. Sugar extraction
from cooked agave,
using room
temperature water to
obtain a juice for
fermentation.
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Juice to
fermentation
+ milling juice
Cooked agave
bagasse
Chain mill
Diffuser
Bagasse
from
milling
Room
temperature
water
DIFFUSER
3. Sugar extraction
from bagasse from
milling process.
Obtained juice is mixed
with the one obtained in
milling process.
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TASTING
Lowland vs Highland Agave
Lowland Blanco 2
&
Highland Blanco 2
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FERMENTATION
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DISTILLATION
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THE FUTURE OF AGAVE
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THE FUTURE OF AGAVE
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THE FUTURE OF AGAVE
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THE FUTURE OF AGAVE
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QUESTIONS
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THANK YOU
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Elayne Duff
FOR MORE SPIRIT INFORMATION/COCKTAIL RECIPES
LOG ON TO: WWW.DUffONTHEROCKS.COM
Twitter Handle: @Yummycocktails
TO CONTACT ELAYNE: Eduff@mktg.com
This seminar will be on slideshare: Elayne Duff
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Digging into the Roots of Tequila- Tales of the Cocktail 2013: A presentation on how three living things (terroir, yeast and man) can effect the flavor of Tequila.

Editor's Notes

  1. Good afternoon and welcome to our seminar “ Digging into the secrets of tequila” My name is Elayne Duff- An I am the head mixologist and ambassador for Diageo Wine and Spirits luxury portfolio.  
  2. Enrique De Colsa: The Master Distiller for Don Julio Tequila Amy Stewart: she is the author of six books, including four New York Times bestsellers. The latest is The Drunken Botanist: The Plants That Create the World&apos;s Great Drinks.” Miguel CedeÑo Cruz: One of the most highly respected technicians and consultants in the Tequila industry Don Lee: A software engineer by trade and an industry consultant by choice. /  
  3. Now, let me give you further background on each of my experts:/   Enrique De Colsa has been the Master Distiller for Don Julio for the past 14 years. In 1999, he began working under Don Julio/ the man himself, /who taught him everything he knew before he retired in 2003. Since then Enrique has worked tirelessly to maintain the quality and true essence of the Don Julio brand /as well as create new line extensions like Don Julio 70. /
  4. Next to him is Amy Stewart . Amy is a New York Times bestselling author of six books on the perils and pleasure of the natural world, including her newest,which I have already mentioned to you/ The Drunken Botanist. If you have not read it I suggest you pick up a copy in the bookstore downstairs (verify)
  5. Next we have an Industry legend and private consultant for the Tequila Industry Mr. Miguel CedeÑo Cruz. Let me quote from……. His background includes being a participant in the Tequila Regulatory Council (CRT) as well as President of several technical committees. His experience includes plant director, quality director and operations director in the tequila industry for over 26 years . the lastest being the Operations Director in Tequila Herradura and Brown-Forman, for 11 years. And currently he is a consultant and Master Distiller for the Tequila National Chamber.   On top of all these amazing accomplishments, he is a published author and noted speaker. Given seminars on Tequila to many distinguished guest including the President Barrack Obama, presidents of Mexico, Felipe Calderon, and prime minister of Canada, Stephen Harper.
  6. Next to him is Don Lee: or as I like to call him /the Mad Scientist of the cocktail industry, /Why? / Well mostly because of the hair /but seriously /he is an industry consultant to various brands, the producer of the tools we all know and love from Cocktail Kingdom, the wrangler behind the cocktail apprentice program here at Tales, he is on the board of the Tequila Interchange Project and most importantly the man who is known as the industry myth buster,/ the seeker of the truth!/
  7. I have been in this industry for 14 years and it has taught many things me/ but there is one factor that I found was the most important and that is ( pause ……)/ that little things matter./ For example when you design a bar… you know that small things make a difference and will influence whether you have a fast and efficient bar or a slow and arduous one. From the placement of the sinks, to the depth of the bar, to type of tools you supply your staff with /. the list can go on forever/…each detail can determine your success or failure.   The same can be said for Tequila. Many of us take for granted how amazing Tequila came to be. We may learn about the master distiller, the fermentation process, and the number of distillations/ but what about where it began… Pause The royal plant itself, the Blue Agave.
  8. Like many of you,/ I was taught that Tequilas from the lowlands tend to be earthier, spicier and more vegetable/ and that Tequilas from the highlands tend to be sweeter and fruitier. But as I began the hard job of tasting through numerous tequilas over many years (It is rough job but somebody has got to do it) I notice this not to be true/ and in many cases/ it could be quite the opposite. So I started doing a little digging and the result of my query was this seminar today, where I gathered these experts to answer our questions. So for the next hour and half, we will hear from each of these experts about : The effects of the agave, yeast and man on the final outcome of this incredible spirit -The factors that influence these three living things - The future for this sacred plant Along the way:   Get to taste and compare agave hearts from the lowlands and the highlands Compare distillates and cocktails created using spirits from both regions. So without further ado, I will now ‘pose a series of questions to my panelist. Please hold your questions until the end of this segment. We look forward to hearing from you.
  9. amy can you please tell us what family of plants does the agave plant belong to? and how many varieties are there? now as i understand it each of these plants has a name, and the blue agave was named by a german botanist named weber, but in your book you say that this is not correct. can you tell us how plants are named and who did name don i know you have been some research on the blue agave as well, can you describe for us what also make this plant so unique: revers photosysnsis: at night 2) main carbohydrates are fructans instead of starch and or surcose, which means what? the blue agave plant? Do you believe that the fermented frutons are what give tequilas it unique flavor profile?
  10. as consumer we crave local ingredients, we purposes buy cheese where wisconsin, meats from this ranch, wines from this country and this vineyard. in other words terroir is important to us. it is a term originated by the french to describe the natural conditions that affect a growing organism: these are soil composition, climate, humitidy, wind, air quality and sun exposure. and the same holds true for the agave and its final product tequila. In the words of Jesus Hernadez a well respected industry expert: Tequila from the valley of Tequila, tends to be intense, especially in the aroma. The flavors are drier and little smoky. Tequila from Los Altson gives off more sweetness of the agave and more fruitness, it is a softier style.
  11. miguel as industry consultant for tequila companies in the highlands and lowlands can you please describe the the terroir conditions in both the highlands and the the lowlands and these factors influence the plant
  12. It is well known that the soils in the highland and in the lowlands are vastly different. Can you describe the soil and the environment in the lowlands? How do these factors influence the plant? (ie. Altitude, humidity, weather etc)
  13. Miguel I understand that you and enrique are working together on a chart just like this for Don Julio and all the lands near the distillery So you know where to plant the next crop, so that the conditions are the same and the flavor profiles will be the exactly the same Ernique can you expand on this
  14. How important do you believe this is to the overall flavor profile of the tequila? So you have now heard a ton of fascinating information about what factors in the environment affect the agave and how. So now you are going to have the opportunity to taste it for yourself. In front of you, there many different items to taste, but the first thing we are going to taste are the cooked agave hearts. To see for ourselves what the influences the environment has on the plant itself. 2 nd we are going to taste two comparable blanco’s. Both are from brands that own that their own distillery, rent or own their lands, double distill in copper stills. Partida Blanco vs Don Blanco
  15. According to CNIT in 2011 their were 253 millions plants in Cultivation. To put this in to prospective from small producers to the industry largetst Camarena family (the producers of el tesoro, tapatiao, ocho and a few others have 1. 8 million plants, Don Julio has 7 million, Herredura 15 million and Casa Cuervo 43.5 million. As a distiller, a Tequileros can grow gave on their own land, contract to grow their agave on somebody else’s or buy from the open market. Enrique, can you tell us which of these methods does Don Julio follow and what steps you need to take with the CRT before you go to plant? Enrique: Make sure he mentions that Don Julio Rents there fields but has full control over how the agaves are grown etc.. in the world of wine, we know that the position that the grapevines are planted in landscape matters to the final Flavor of the grape. Is the same true when it comes to the planting of agave. Enrique talk about the space in between the plants, planting them flat or on the slide of the hill to stress the plants. M
  16. Now obviously in order to be able to keep planting new plants the agave has to reproduce. How this is currently happening has become a subject of much debate and much worry in the industry. Don Lee can you please tell us the different ways in which the agaves can reproduce Todays Blue Agave Crop is a genetic monoculture, with 95% of new babies coming from shoots produced by the mother plant. Don Lee can you explain to us what describe the audience what this means, as well as what the other ways in which the Agave Can if left to its own resources. The Four being: Pups that grown natural around the plant and are identical to the mother plant 2) Female plant flowers 3) Flowers is pollinated by the long nose bat, the seeds will fall to earth and will take root 4) Propogation by man: Herredura and Suaza are doing this by microcutting from desirable plants and cultivating them. Trying to make a supper plant. What dangers does the plant and the long nose bat face because of this?
  17. Miguel: Can you tell us the difference between these two plants above? When harvesting agaves I have come to understand that a few factors come into consideration according to the style of tequila and the taste profile of the Tequila that the distiller wants to achieve. Maturity being the biggest factor. (1 ripe agave: to create an a round, sweet full agave flavor) 2) over ripe Agave: sweet but almost vinergarish flavor
  18. Pina being harvested: What are the different styles of harvesting the industry practices and why.? Enrique what as a producer who rents his field what process do you need to go through with the CRT? What are the Jimador looking for when harvesting an agave? (Talk about how Don Julio picks them one by one) With that being said Miguel can you tell us why it is important to harvest agaves one rather then one big sweep. How many distilllers does this?
  19. Well harvested agave Miguel: How many producers own their distillery? And out of those how many own or rent their own lands. If a producer does not own or rent their own fields what steps do they take to make sure they get quality agave? Are there laws put into place to insure that agaves are coming from the region that they growers states them from? Do any buy outside the region from which they distill?
  20. Above is a photo of accepted agave. Can you please tell us what we are looking at? Accepted Agave Enrique: Once the piña reach the distillery, what are the key factors taking into consideration, when decided if an agave harvest is good for distillation? Sugar content ($), maturity, harvesting specs and healthiness. How do you test for maturity? Miguel: Do all distillers use these metrics? Yes with different values. Are then any producers who forgo this process and just accept the agave as long as it is registered? There are exceptions to the rule but unfortunately yes. 2. What are the Minimum sugar and weight requirements acceptable in order to make good quality tequila? These two factors are a result of agave care during its cycle and I can say that 20% TRS and 20 Kg/plant will be OK. But do not to forget agave maturity and healthiness.
  21. Enrique these are photos of reject agaves! Can you tell us why they would be rejected? Pinas that are not accepted So when you decided to reject the agave, what happens to them?
  22. Don and or Miguel: Can you tell us why a distiller needs to roast agaves ?( To break down the frutans! Unlike other spirits made with grain or grapes.Fructans are very hard to ferment by yeast so it is necessary to break them down with heat to obtain the fermentable sugars. Goal: To chemically change the compostiition of the agave to improve flavor and comlexity To soften them to be milled. MIGUEL So when it comes to cooking agave, I know that the three factors that matter most is the temperature, the pressure and the duration. Can you please compare for the audience the effects on the agave cooked in stainless steel autoclave vs and earthen oven. In which these two systems are you able to control the factors more precisely? ENRIQUE: WHAT PROCESS DOES DON JULIO USE AND WHY
  23. So the second step in the process in the process, is take the roasted agaves and mill them to retrieve the remaining ague miel. So some people choose to use one or the other. Ernique why do you use Mechanical and Miguel why do people use a tahohna Miguel and Enrique: The Tahona and the mechanical mill are the most common. Is there any benefit to the final flavor of the tequila by using one over the other? . Mention Philippe and Carlos Camarena: Carlos uses a tahonas and Philipe created a more modern machine which places the shredded agave in a long basin and then he rolls a big heavy, 19,000 pound cylnder over it. Don Julio we use a more modern mill. Enrique can you explain how both of these methods work and also how important the water quality is to this process? Which is is more effective in retrieving the agua miel. Miguel : is there a benefit to the final flavor tequila by using one or the other?
  24. Now as technology advances, new techniques are being developed and one of the latest ones being used by a few of the big brands is a diffuser. Which laymens tems is a machine that can roast and mill the agave at the same time.
  25. Miguel: Can you explain to audience what they are looking at and how this system works. Also known as diffusion band, is a countercurrent extraction cell system, which is very efficient for sugar extraction from cooked agave or bagasse or inulin extraction from raw agave as well.
  26. Miguel/Don: Benefits of using one? Low production and labor cost, consistency, agave with wide quality specs can be processed. Negatives of using one? If not properly used, intense herbal flavor in tequila, lack or excess of cooked agave flavor, sulfur off notes and high capital installation cost. Change from traditional process to diffuser, effect on final tequila? If operating conditions are not optimized: Herbal, cooked agave(lack or excess) and sulfur notes. What do you feel about this new technology and do you feel it is good or bad for the tequila industry? What if a company was to change their method of production from the more traditional to one of these modern techniques, would it Change the flavor of their tequila? Als
  27. Taste blanco from the lowlands that using the most advance technology from the lowlands including a diffuser and Blanco #2 which is tequila Using all traditional techniques from the highlands, so Tahonas, wood vats, wild yeast and copper pot stills. Again not here to say one is better then the other but that to allow you to decide for yourself which you prefer.
  28. Don Lee: in layman terms can you tell us how fermentation works and how it can influence the flavor of the spirit Within the industry people some people are using various methods during fermenation. It varies from stainless steel tanks to wood ones and from Using a signature yeast to wild yeast. Enrique can you tell us which method you prefect to you use and why? Miquel can you tell us why somebody would choose to use wild yeast? And is it still possible to get a consistent product? As distiller can you change your yeast to try to achieve a different flavor in your tequila. So if you are a highland agave but you may want some more vegetadle notes that you find in a lowland. I know one producer leaves the fibers in, what is the beneft of this?
  29. So after all of this: you picked your agaves at the peak of maturity, cooked it to the right temperature, for the right amount of time, milled it to perfection, use the best water, fermented with the optiomal yeast for the right amount of time. But can you still fuck it up at Distillation? Most people feel it is the art of the distiller that eventual determines how good or bad a spirit may taste. So please tell me how a distiller can influence the final taste of the spirit? What is the benefit of using copper pot stills over column And how many times does a good tequila need to be distilled to be superb? Lastly: The NOM says that you can add up 1.5 % of other sugars to mellow the spirit, what are thoughts on this? Miguel,Enrique And Don
  30. What are the current dangers that the plant faces What can the industry do to preserve the agave? How will changes in the environment influence the plant? Amy: What do you feel the future holds for the agave plant, if the industry continues at this pace Don: Can you add to that? Enrique: What are Don Julio’s plans for the future? Miguel: What steps is the industry taking to preserve the future of this plant? Several actions: Using more sustainable agricultural practices. Association of other crop farming near or inside agave fields. Planning models for agave demand based on tequila market. Find and maintain improved cell lines of plants resistant to diseases, frost, high inulin content (Not GMO). Micro propagation for agave planting. DNA definition of what is A. tequilana Preserve A. tequilana plants in specialized labs. What steps is the industry taking to preserve the future of this plant? Several actions: Treat stillage to decrease water consumption in agave farming and processing. Use of bagasse composting to restore organic matter in agave fields. Research in enzyme hydrolysis to reduce oil consumption. Move tequila production into bio-factory con
  31. What are the current dangers that the plant faces What can the industry do to preserve the agave? How will changes in the environment influence the plant? Amy: What do you feel the future holds for the agave plant, if the industry continues at this pace Don: Can you add to that? Enrique: What are Don Julio’s plans for the future? Miguel: What steps is the industry taking to preserve the future of this plant? Several actions: Using more sustainable agricultural practices. Association of other crop farming near or inside agave fields. Planning models for agave demand based on tequila market. Find and maintain improved cell lines of plants resistant to diseases, frost, high inulin content (Not GMO). Micro propagation for agave planting. DNA definition of what is A. tequilana Preserve A. tequilana plants in specialized labs. What steps is the industry taking to preserve the future of this plant? Several actions: Treat stillage to decrease water consumption in agave farming and processing. Use of bagasse composting to restore organic matter in agave fields. Research in enzyme hydrolysis to reduce oil consumption. Move tequila production into bio-factory con
  32. What are the current dangers that the plant faces What can the industry do to preserve the agave? How will changes in the environment influence the plant? Amy: What do you feel the future holds for the agave plant, if the industry continues at this pace Don: Can you add to that? Enrique: What are Don Julio’s plans for the future? Miguel: What steps is the industry taking to preserve the future of this plant? Several actions: Using more sustainable agricultural practices. Association of other crop farming near or inside agave fields. Planning models for agave demand based on tequila market. Find and maintain improved cell lines of plants resistant to diseases, frost, high inulin content (Not GMO). Micro propagation for agave planting. DNA definition of what is A. tequilana Preserve A. tequilana plants in specialized labs. What steps is the industry taking to preserve the future of this plant? Several actions: Treat stillage to decrease water consumption in agave farming and processing. Use of bagasse composting to restore organic matter in agave fields. Research in enzyme hydrolysis to reduce oil consumption. Move tequila production into bio-factory con
  33. What are the current dangers that the plant faces What can the industry do to preserve the agave? How will changes in the environment influence the plant? Amy: What do you feel the future holds for the agave plant, if the industry continues at this pace Don: Can you add to that? Enrique: What are Don Julio’s plans for the future? Miguel: What steps is the industry taking to preserve the future of this plant? Several actions: Using more sustainable agricultural practices. Association of other crop farming near or inside agave fields. Planning models for agave demand based on tequila market. Find and maintain improved cell lines of plants resistant to diseases, frost, high inulin content (Not GMO). Micro propagation for agave planting. DNA definition of what is A. tequilana Preserve A. tequilana plants in specialized labs. What steps is the industry taking to preserve the future of this plant? Several actions: Treat stillage to decrease water consumption in agave farming and processing. Use of bagasse composting to restore organic matter in agave fields. Research in enzyme hydrolysis to reduce oil consumption. Move tequila production into bio-factory con
  34. BY SAYING THANK YOU TO MY PANELIST FOR YOUR TIME AND EFFORTS IN CREATING THIS SEMINAR THANK YOU TO DON JULIO FOR SPONSORING US THANK YOU ALL COMING, PLEASE DRINK MORE TEQUILA, RESPONSIBLE AND IF YOU NOT DONE SO PLEASE PURCHASE A BOTTLE OF DON JULIO TODAY. WE APPRECIATE YOUR SUPPORT!