3. Novelty Yarns:
Novelty yarns are made primarily for their appearance. They
differ from simple yarns that their structure is characterized
by irregularities. ASTM defines a fancy yarn as a yarn that
differs significantly from the normal appearance of single or
plied yarns due to the presence of irregularities deliberately
produced during its formation.
In single yarn the irregularities may be due to the inclusion of
knots, loops, curls, slubs and the like. In plied yarns the
irregularities may be due to a variable delivery of one or more
of its components or to twisting together dissimilar single
yarns.
The term fancy, complex and novelty are considered
synonymous. As noted from the definition most fancy yarns are
either single or plied. There can be endless variety of novelty
yarns. A typical novelty yarn has three basic parts: 1.The
ground or foundation or core. 2. The fancy or effect 3. The
binder.
4. Facts about novelty yarns:
Novelty yarns are usually ply yarns, but they are not used to add strength to the fabric.
If novelty yarns are used in one direction only, they are usually in the filling direction. They
'go further' and are subject to less strain and are easy to vary for design purpose.
Novelty yarns add interest to plain weave fabrics at lower cost. Novelty yarn effects are
permanent.
Novelty yarns that are loose and bulky give crease resistance to a fabric but they make the
fabric spongy and hard to sew.
The durability of novelty yarn fabrics is dependent on the size of the novelty effect, how
well the novelty effect is held in the yarn and on the firmness of the weave on the fabric.
Generally speaking, the smaller the novelty effect, the more durable the fabric is, since the
yarns are less affected by abrasion and do not tend to catch and pull out so readily.
5. Different types of Novelty Yarns:
1. Slub yarns
2. Flock yarns
3. Spiral yarns
4. Ratine yarn
5. Boucle yarn
6. Nub/spot/ knot or knob yarns
7. Seed or splash yarn
8. Chenille yarn
9. Metallic yarns
Applications of novelty yarns
When woven or knitted into fabrics, they produce an
altogether different look. They are also used in making
crochet and embroidery threads. Fabrics manufactured
from novelty yarns are not only used in apparel, but
also in upholstery.
6. Chenille Yarn:
The chenille yarn is manufactured by placing short
lengths of yarn, called the "pile", between two
"core yarns" and then twisting the yarn together.
The edges of these piles then stand at right angles
to the yarn's core, giving chenille both its softness
and its characteristic look. Chenille will look
different in one direction compared to another, as
the fibers catch the light differently. Chenille can
appear iridescent without actually using
iridescent fibers. The yarn is commonly
manufactured from cotton, but can also be made
using acrylic, rayon and olefin.
This was made originally by the Leno weaving two
weft yarns are placed between each crossing of
the weft yarns. After weaving the weft, length
extended between the warp yarns is cut to
produce the pile effect.
Wool & Denim
7. Technique-
I have weaving two weft yarns are placed between each crossing of the weft yarns.
After weaving the weft, length extended between the warp yarns is cut to produce the
pile effect.
End Uses of Chenille Yarn
Dresses
Sweaters
Outerwear
Trims
Cuffs
Collars
Scarves
Scarf and Handkerchief
8. Spiral Yarn:
Plying technique used here. Typically, two single yarns of different thickness
and twist level are plied together with slight over feed of course yarn.
The spiral fancy yarn is a plied yarn with smooth spiralling of one component
around the others. Delivering one or more of its components at a greater
speed can produce fancy yarn with spirals, so the shorter length of the
component forms the core, while the greater length of the components
creates the spirals.
Copper Wire
9. Technique-
I have used two wires and twisted together by using plying technique.
End Uses of Spiral Yarn
Jewellery
Bag
Art and crafts
Home decoration
Frames
Bangles
Rings
Bag and Bangles
10. Nub yarn
Also known as knot or spot yarns, this novelty yarn is made by twisting
the ply around the core ply many times within a very short space. This
twisting process causes bumps or nubs to appear at intervals along the
length of the twisted yarn.
Wool
11. Technique-
I have use two yarn for making this and I have created this yarn by
tightly twisting an effect fiber around the base fiber.
End Use-
Cap
Sweaters
Scarf
Dress
Necklace
Band
Doormat
carpet
Sweater and shawl
12. Boucle Yarn
Boucle yarn is made from a length of loops of similar size which can
range from tiny circlets to large curls. To make boucle, at least two
strands of yarn are combined, with the tension on one strand being
much looser than the other as it is being plied, with the loose strand
forming the loops and the other strand as the anchor or “core” yarn.
•Hard twist core yarn or tight loops projecting from the body of the yarn at
nearly regular intervals.
•Made by air-jet texturization and the three yarns (core, effect and binder) are
used.
•The effect yarns have the loops wrapped around a core yarn then the binder is
wrapped over the effect ply in order to hold the loops in lace.
•Ultimate design effect is produced.
Wool
13. Technique-
To make this yarn, I have twisted two yarns and then created a loop with
the third yarn.
Boucle End Uses
Scarves, gloves, hats and bags made using this yarn are also very popular
all over the world. It is often used for making woven articles like blankets,
Afghans, ponchos, throws as well as carpets. The boucle yarn can even
be used for upholstery.
Hat and Gloves
16. Taxtured Yarn
What is textured yarn?
Textured yarn is one type of continuous
filament yarn produced by processing
through a texturing process. It has been
processed to introduce durable crimps,
coils, loops or other fine distortions
along the lengths of the filaments. It
have been made more extensible by
filament distortion through physical,
chemical or heat treatment or a
combination of these. Texturing
gives yarns a soft and woolly feel and
increases the warmth and comfort of
fabrics.
17. Textured yarns
•Textured is a general term for any continous filament yarn whose smooth straight fibers have
been displaced from their closely packed, parallel position by the introduction of some form of
crimp, curl, loop or coil.
•Textured yarns can be made from either filament fiber or staple fibers cut from filaments that
have been given textured configuration of some type. The majority of textured yarn are made
from filament fibers.
•Texturizing occurs following the spinning solution of the fiber material through the spinnerette. It
may be done immediately following fiber formation and be a part of a continous operation or it
may be done some time after the filaments have been made.
•Texturing yarns may be uniform in shape and smooth in appearance- like simple yarns, they may
be irregular so that they have some resemblance to complex yarn structure.
•Texturing gives slippery filaments the aesthetic properties of the spun yarns by altering the
surface characteristics and creating space between the fibers . This gives the fabric more
breathability , permeability to moisture more absorbency, more comfortable and has less static
buildup.
18. Purpose of texturing:
The prime purpose of texturing filament yarn is to create a bulky structure that is desirable for
the following reason; The voids in the structure cause the material to have good insulation
properties. The voids in the structure change the density of the material(Which makes possible
a lightweight yarn with good covering properties) The disorganized (or less organized) surface of
the yarn gives dispersed light reflections, which, in turn, give a desirable matte appearance. The
sponge like structure feels softer than a lean twisted flat yarn. The crimped or coiled filament
structure gives a lower effective modulus of elasticity to the structure when compare with that
of a flat yarn.
Textured yarns are used for manufacturing a wide variety of textile products: hosiery, knitted un
derwear
and outer wear, and shaperetaining knitted fabrics for men’s and women’s suits and overcoats. T
hey are
also used in the production of artificial fur, carpets, blankets, and drapery and upholstery fabrics
.
19. Classification of textured yarn:
Textured yarns are divided into three groups:Highly extensible and stretchable materials. For
example, continuous filament yarns which have been textured either by false twist method
or by edge crimping procedure.
Materials with relatively low stretch but with high bulk-e.g. textured continuous filament
yarns which have been first false twist textured and then given an additional heat treatment.
Materials with normal stretch ability but with durable bulk-e.g. continuous filament yarns
which have been treated mechanically by the formation of loops on individual filaments.
20. Classification of textured yarn:
Textured yarns are divided into three groups:Highly extensible and stretchable materials.
For example, continuous filament yarns which have been textured either by false twist
method or by edge crimping procedure.
Materials with relatively low stretch but with high bulk-e.g. textured continuous filament
yarns which have been first false twist textured and then given an additional heat
treatment.
Materials with normal stretch ability but with durable bulk-e.g. continuous filament yarns
which have been treated mechanically by the formation of loops on individual filaments.
21. Featured of textured yarn:
• At a similar weight (e.g. grams per square meter, gsm) products made of textured yarns are
bulker.
• They have higher thermal insulating power.
• Textured yarns can absorb moisture better and faster.
• They have high covering power.
• Products made of textured yarns have better air permeability.
• Lusture is high.
• Cost is high.
• Texturization:
It is a thermo-mechanical process by which man-made fibers are transferred with different
effects for producing stretch, bulk and modified yarn.
22. During texturization the following effects are given:
CRIMP
CURL
LOOP
COIL
Objects of texturization:
For better comfort and appearance.
For better strength of fiber by improving molecular chain orientation.
To increase bulkiness of the yarn.
To increase inter fiber cohesion and abrasion resistance
Advantages
Cohesiveness increases.
Stretch increases (depends upon the method of processing)
Bulk increases.
Cover increases.
Insulation properties improves because of enclosed air.
Wrinkle resistance is better.
Pill less readily than spun yarn.
Soil more easily than smooth filament yarn.
Fabric made are softer and are more comfortable.
23. Modern methods of texturization:
Twist-heatest-untwist
Knit-deknit
Stuffer box
Gear box
Knife edge crimping method
Air jet
False-twist method
Real twist Texturising
False twist Texturising
Draw Texturising
Knit de knit
Gear crimping
24. Properties of textured yarns
As already pointed out,textured yarns are characterized by
higher extensibility,elasticity and bulkiness than flat yarns.
Schematic longitudinal view of textured yarns.
Among the various properties ,generally assessed with
methods similar to those used for other types of yarn,there
is a method of particular importance and for specific
use,termed crimp contraction (or crimp elasticity).This
property is essentially assessed on false-twist yarns and is
defined as “the contraction of a textured yarn due to crimp
development,expressed as percentage rate of the stretched
out(not crimped)yarn length.
25. Curled Texture
I took two strips of fabric and twisted one end to the right
side and the other to the left side,so that the curly texture
was automatically created in it.And spiral the second strip on
it.
End Use- For manufacture of furnishing( sofa cover,
upholstery, curtain, doormat, towel) fabrics and trimmings,
fashion knitwear(sweater) and decorative threads in many
types of broad.
Fabric Strips
Scarf Band(Bracelets)
26. Wool
Rounded Crimp Yarn
To make this yarn,I have used a knitting
niddle.And kept on coiling to make ring
shape.And Steam it for better texturing.
End Use-wall hanging,doll
hair,garment,jwellery, hand-knotted.
Macrame wall hanging
27. Copper Wire
Knit-de-Knit Method
To make this yarn,I have used a knitting
niddle.And kept on wrapping to make
loom shape.
End use-Jwellery,decoration,art and
craft,pen stand,Jewellery Hooks,chain
,sewing, crocheting, knitting, weaving,
embroidery. Belts.
Hair Band
Bangle
Ring
28. Fabric strip and Jute
Knitting and Deknitting
To make this yarn,I have used a knitting niddle.First
knit it on loom and left for a while then dknit it for
texture outcome.
End Term-sewing, crocheting, knitting, weaving,
embroidery, or ropemaking,hand-knotted. Roofing and floor
covering apparel,Footwear lining, Fashion accessories.
Jewellery and Rug
29. Fabric strip and Tissue
Paper
True false twist
I took two strip and twisted it,And twist one
end to the left and the other to the right.
End Use- embroidery,Apperal,home
furnishing,fashion accessories.
Hat/Cap Flower Pot