The document provides information on test methods for measuring dimensional changes in fabrics and garments after home laundering. Key details include: - Dimensional change refers to changes in length or width of specimens after conditioning and laundering cycles. - Tests involve marking specimens, laundering using standard conditions, reconditioning, and measuring specimens to calculate percentage changes from original dimensions. - Factors like number of cycles, drying method, and ironing can be adjusted based on intended care. - Dimensional stability is important for care labels, customer satisfaction, and maintaining other fabric properties.

1. AATCC TM135-2018t
Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after
Home Laundering
AATCC TM150-2018t
Dimensional Changes of Garments after
Home Laundering
AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

2. Dimensional Change
• a generic term for changes in the length or
width of a fabric or garment specimen
subjected to specified conditions. The
change is usually expressed as a
percentage of the initial dimension of the
specimen.
AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

3. Laundering
• A process intended to remove soils and/or
stains by treatment (washing) with
aqueous detergent solution and normally
including rinsing, extraction and drying.
AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

4. Why Dimensional Change Matters
• Care labels
16 CFR 423
https://www.ftc.gov/node/119456
AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

5. Why Dimensional Change Matters
• Customer satisfaction
• Impacts other fabric/garment properties
AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

6. Can be Combined with
Other Methods
 Appearance
AATCC TM88B
AATCC TM88C
AATCC TM124
AATCC TM143
 Skew/Twist
AATCC TM179
AATCC TM207
 Stain Release
AATCC TM130
AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

7. Scope
TM135
• Flat fabrics
• Individual panels of sewn items
TM150
• Garments
• Circular knits used in tubular form
AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

8. Materials
• Indelible marking pen
• Ruler or shrinkage scale
• Conditioning facilities
• Flat surface for marking and measuring
AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

9. Shrinkage Scale
• Use with 10-in or 18-in benchmarks
• Measures % change directly
• Be sure to use the correct side of the
scale!
PERCENT SHRINKAGE
AATCC PO BOX 12215 RESEARCH TRIANGLE PARK, NC 27709
20 10 0 10
20 10 0 10
Shrinkage
(-)
Growth
(+)
Shrinkage
(-)
Growth
(+)
AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

10. Test Specimens: TM135
• 3 specimens
• Option 1: 380  380 mm (15  15 in)
Option 2: 610  610 mm (24  24 in)
Narrow fabrics: 380 mm (15 in) long
• Different warp & fill yarns
• Pink edges as needed
• May also be used for
TM124, TM179, TM130
Selvage
AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

11. Test Specimens: TM150
• Garment
• 3 specimens (garments) when possible
• May also be used for TM143, TM179,
TM207, TM130
Selvage
AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

12. Conditioning
• ASTM D1776
• Flat, single layer, no tension
or
On hanger
• Air circulation through
and around
• 21°C ±2°C (70°F ±4°F)
• 65% ±5% relative humidity (RH)
AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

13. Benchmarks: TM135
Mark 250- or 460-mm:
W1
W2
W3
For ruler:
• Measure to nearest mm, ⅛
in., or ⅟10 in.
• Calculate average L
• Calculate average W
• Measurement A (original)
L1
L2
L3
AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

14. 25-125 mm
Benchmarks: TM135 (narrow)
• Use full width
• Mark 250-mm:
L1
L2 (if 25-125 mm wide)
• Mark W1 (optional)
• Measure
• Calculate average L
• Calculate average W
• Measurement A (original)
380
mm
< 25 mm
AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

15. Benchmarks: TM150
• ≥ 25 mm (1 in) from edges and seams
• Mark 250- or 460-mm:
• W1 L1
• W2 L2
• W3 L3
• Measure
• Measurement A (original)
AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

16. Benchmarks: TM150
• Benchmarks across panels may be used
• Mark & report measurement points
Mark and measure:
Front length
Front width
AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

17. Laundering Materials
• Automatic washer
• Tumble dryer or drying facilities
• Detergent
• Ballast
AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

18. https://www.aatcc.org/testing/laundering/
AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2018, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

19. Standard Washing Conditions
Alternate conditions listed in LP1
(note as a modification of the test method)
AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

20. 1993 AATCC Standard
Reference Detergent
• Powder detergent
• For “traditional” top-loading washers
• 66 g per load
AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

21. Standard Reference Detergent
• No phosphates
• No bleach, enzymes,
colors, fragrances
• Consistency for valid
comparison
of test results
• With or without optical
brightener
www.aatcc.org/test/detergent
www.aatcc.org/test/washers/#detergent
AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

22. Laundering Ballast
• 92  92 cm (36  36 in) hemmed white
sheets
• Type 1: 100% cotton
• Type 3: 50% polyester/
50% cotton
AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

23. Washing Procedure
• Select machine cycle
• Select wash temperature
• Add water
• Add detergent
• Add specimens and enough ballast to
make 1.8-kg (4-lb) load
• Start wash cycle
AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

24. Standard Drying Conditions
(A) Tumble
i. Cotton Sturdy
ii. Delicate
iii. Permanent Press
(B) Line
(C) Drip
(D) Screen
AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

25. Tumble Dry (A)
• Remove from wash immediately after final spin
• Untangle as needed, avoiding distortion
• Place full load (specimens and ballast) in dryer
• Set exhaust temperature
• Normal or Perm Press: 68°C (155°F) max.
• Delicate: 60°C (140°F) max.
• Dry completely
• Remove immediately
AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

26. Line Dry (B)
• Remove from wash immediately after final spin
• Untangle as needed, avoiding distortion
• TM135: Hang specimens by two corners, fabric
length in vertical direction
• TM150: Hang specimens on hangers
• Dry in still air at room temperature
• ≤ 26°C (78°F)
• Do not blow air directly on specimens
AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

27. Line Dry (B)
AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

28. Line Dry (B)
AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

29. Drip Dry (C)
• Remove from wash immediately after final
rinse (soaking wet, before final spin)
• Untangle as needed, avoiding distortion
• Hang as for line dry
AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

30. Screen Dry (D)
• Remove from wash immediately after final spin
• Untangle as needed, avoiding distortion
• Spread on horizontal surface allowing air
movement on all sides
• Smooth without distorting or stretching
• Dry in still air at room temperature
• ≤ 26°C (78°F)
• Do not blow air directly on specimens
AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

31. Screen Dry (D)
AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

32. Number of Laundering Cycles
• “Pass” after 1 cycle: continue to 3 cycles
• “Fail” after 1 cycle: stop test
or
• As agreed between buyer and seller
AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

33. Ironing
• If specimens would always be ironed by a
consumer, iron before measuring
• Minimal pressure to remove wrinkles
AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

34. Conditioning
• Repeat conditioning procedure after final
dry or iron
AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

35. Final Measurement:
Shrinkage Scale
• Read % change directly from scale
• Calculate average change in length
• Calculate average change in width
AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

36. Final Measurement: Ruler
• Measure between marked points
 Same surface
 Same measurement device
• For TM135:
 Calculate average length measurement
 Calculate average width measurement
• Measurement B (after laundering)
AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

37. Calculation: Benchmarks
• Calculate length and width change separately
 nearest 0.1% for laundering
 nearest 0.2% for drycleaning
Average Dimensional Change = B-A  100%
A
• A = initial measurement (avg for TM135)
• B = final measurement (avg for TM135)
AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

38. Calculation: Garments
• Calculate change for each garment location
 nearest 0.1% for laundering
 nearest 0.2% for drycleaning
• Average length measurements, if applicable
• Average width measurements, if applicable
AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

39. Interpretation
• Negative dimensional change: shrinkage
• Positive dimensional change: growth
-10% L
-10% W
+10% L
+10% W
-10% L
+10% W
AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

40. Report
• Sample description
• Test method (including year)
• Ballast (Type 1 or 3)
• Detergent (with out without brightener)
• Number of laundering cycles (usually 3)
• Laundering conditions
• Distortion/wrinkling before laundering
• Iron setting, if used
• Modification(s) of test method
AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

41. Report
• For each direction or garment location:
 Direction/location
 Average dimensional change to nearest 0.1%
 Number of measurements in average
• Usually 9: 3 sets of benchmarks × 3 specimens
 Original benchmark distance
AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

42. Questions?
• Erika Simmons
Technical Director, AATCC
simmonse@aatcc.org
• Chair
RA42, Dimensional Changes Test Methods
AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists