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YSL
妝管四孝
49824142 廖婉婷
YSL品牌小故事
 優雅不在服裝上,而是在神情中」出於 Yves Saint Laurent。
 這位展現跨年代魅力,對時尚圈呼風喚雨的重量級設計師Yves Saint Laurent,
對於奠定法國巴黎為時尚之都的情勢功不可沒,擁有藝術家的浪漫特質,對於色
彩的精準拿捏,挑戰世俗的大膽作風,他的出現,為時裝界注入一股新新動力,讓
時尚徹底活了起來。
 1936年8月1日於法屬北非阿爾及利亞誕生,由於家族擁有貴族血統,祖先從事於
法律事業,父親經營電影製作與保險事業,是相當成功的商人,因此Yves Saint
Laurent從小即在背景良好的富裕家庭中生長,隨時擁有傭人伺候,參加不完的高
級快艇午宴,這些上流社會的社交生活,Yves Saint Laurent相當習以為常,因此
成長過程中不乏接觸高級時裝珠寶的機會,久而久之累積醞釀起對於時裝的熱
誠。
 17歲時候的Yves Saint Laurent,隻身前往時尚之都--巴黎,學習水彩畫讓他開始
與美有了正式接觸,但是不久後即轉移到服裝畫的領域內,1953年時,他精湛突出
的素描創作讓他在巴黎國際羊毛局中展露頭角,獲得第三名的優異成績,隔年,他
再次以一套黑色晚宴服奪下該屆冠軍寶座,由於當時的他僅只有18歲的年紀,因
此分外引人矚目,並引起知名時尚雜誌Vogue總編的激賞,因而採用其設計,當
Yves Saint Laurent高中一畢業,Vogue雜誌立刻聘請他擔任美術設計。
 在時尚雜誌磨練一年後,他離開了Vogue,1955年進入當時正值全盛時期的服裝
設計師Christian Dior旗下工作,開始展露他過人的設計創意,果然表現不凡,即
使是才初接下設計職責,Yves Saint Laurent的設計已經可達到迪奧的水準之內,
第二年,迪奧已有將近三分之一的時裝,皆是出自於Yves Saint Laurent之手,因
此在21歲時,被提昇為技術性指導員,然而他的啟蒙恩師Christian Dior卻在同年
(1957年10月24日)與世長辭,Yves Saint Laurent只好在悲痛之餘同時也接下Dior
該年時裝發表會的設計重責,結果因此一炮而紅,時尚傳媒以克麗絲汀二世的稱
號來讚許他的能力,毫無疑問的,這位年僅21歲的時裝金童,立刻成為Dior首席設
計師的不二之選,並持續至1960年。
畢展心得
 對於我們的畢展,除了用心策劃之外,燒錢的速
度也是無法解釋的快。
 主任和老師們只需要一個想法一個動作就能夠
抹煞我們學生的所有進展,學生也不過是學校的
一枚棋子一個傀儡罷了。
 現在所做的一切,不過也就是替學校打廣告,花
了如此多的金錢與時間,向學校申請個補助也只
有單單的九萬塊,九萬塊連個舞台都不夠了。學
校做個花圃花園搞個園藝都有錢,無奈的是我們
學生啊!!!
 然而Yves Saint Laurent的時裝之路,卻因二次大戰的爆發而被徵兆入伍,但身
性內向害羞的他,無法承受軍中的精神虐待,導致精神崩貴,被移送至精神病院療
養,從此Yves Saint Laurent一生都得與藥品為伴。
 提早退役之後,雖然Yves Saint Laurent仍重返DIOR,但時間短暫,1962年及與
親密戰友Pierre Berge合力創建自己的時裝王國,品牌成立之後的首度處女秀,引
起極大旋風,如當時所發表的水手衣、鬱金香線條等,皆成為時裝界中的一種新面
貌,這也讓一向被視為上層社會專屬的流行時裝體系,徹底被摧毀瓦解,促進成衣
平民化的開端。Yves Saint Laurent對於時尚界而言,有如走在前端的先進改革份
子,他察覺到時代的變遷,同時亦勇於挑戰傳統權威,創新各種新線條,從1957年
開始,Yves Saint Laurent所設計的鬱金香線條、喇叭褲、喇叭裙線、水手服、騎士
裝、魯賓遜裝、長筒靴、嬉皮裝、中性裝,直今仍是許多當紅設計師創作時的主要
靈感淵源,沿襲回春的情況頻仍。
到了1966年,長褲儼然已成為是YSL品牌的象徵風格,除此之外,Yves Saint
Laurent也相當鼓吹女性勇於捨棄胸罩,例如設計出將近裸透的洋裝或是可透視的
上衣單品來宣揚這種風氣,1971年,Yves Saint Laurent便已經擁有46家聯鎖店,
證明了女性同胞對他的熱愛支持。
到了1966年,長褲儼然已成為是YSL品牌的象徵風格,除此之外,Yves Saint
Laurent也相當鼓吹女性勇於捨棄胸罩,例如設計出將近裸透的洋裝或是可透視的
上衣單品來宣揚這種風氣,1971年,Yves Saint Laurent便已經擁有46家聯鎖店,
證明了女性同胞對他的熱愛支持。
1976年,Yves Saint Laurent進入前所未有的高峰時期,推出一系列具有國際村特
色的Cossack服裝系列,同時含有吉普賽式、印度、高加索、斯拉夫、土耳其等樣
式, Saint Laurent的服裝流露著從他對歷史、藝術、文學的熱愛,同時也 反映著摩
洛哥、中國、日本、西班牙等多重異國風貌,
進入80年,Yves Saint Laurent已形成如偶像般的地位,奪走了無以數計的相關
獎項,1982年獲得美國時尚設計師協會頒贈年度設計師殊榮, 1983年莫斯科博物
館為他舉辦了25年回顧展,1985年獲得了奧斯卡所頒發的特別獎項,來表彰他對
於服裝領域中的終生成就。
 但是,人們的審美觀從90年代開始,又進入另一種階段,逐漸的朝向極簡路線靠
攏,Yves Saint Laurent依然沉醉於使用精緻高雅的設計作風,引起諸多時尚人的
質疑,若是Yves Saint Laurent仍然固執己見,勢必會造成他事業上的危機,在
1993年,Yves Saint Laurent的工作拍檔 Bergé精心營造了與GUCCI集團結識的機
會,從此之後直到99年末期,謠言滿天飛,傳媒對於YSL的未來舵手紛紛加以揣
測,最後Pierre Bergé選擇了與GUCCI集團的聯盟合作,並指派GUCCI的創意總監
TOM FORD來同時擔任YSL成衣路線「左岸」(Rive Gauche)的設計大權,要使YSL
重回熱門品牌陣線,而Yves Saint Laurent與Pierre Bergé則繼續主導高級訂製服
系列的經營規劃,雖然Yves Saint Laurent對於Tom Ford的入主並不同意,2000
年1月的發表秀也毀譽參半,但Tom Ford也的確完成品牌重生的使命,讓YSL迅速
再度回歸到被期待的主流品牌。
 無論未來如何發展,Yves Saint Laurent依然是服裝界最知名的品牌之一,不僅
在服裝上表現的可圈可點,其版圖也擴大至裝飾品,香水,化妝保養品、手錶、眼
鏡、配件等,雖然江山異主,但Yves Saint Laurent的精神將是經典而長存。
畢展時間
2013年5月9日第一場18:00-20:00
2013年5月10日第二場14:00-16:00
2013年5月10日第三場18:00-20:00
歡迎蒞臨觀賞。

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