1. WINTER 2014/15 // where.ca 21
These hoofed fauna are among many types
of game you can sample in the Canadian
Rockies—but be sure to add a glass of wine.
We talked to three restaurants in the region
about their favourite wine and game pairings.
We hope you brought your appetite!
Eden (p 82) expertly pleases guests’ pal-
ates with multi-course dining “off the beaten
path,” says Chad Greaves, maitre d’hotel and
sommelier. “Everyone comes to Alberta for
beef. That’s a beautiful thing, but you can
have beef in a lot of restaurants,” he says.
On the game side, Eden has dabbled in artis-
tic presentations of elk, bison, squab, par-
tridge and pheasant. “People are excited to
see these things on the menu,” Greaves says.
At the Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge (p 119),
Chef Christopher Chafe says many guests
dine at the hotel specifically for its game
dishes. “We have one guest who comes for
the bison every year,” he says.
The lodge’s Moose’s Nook Chophouse serves
a 6-oz bison tenderloin. Chafe pairs it with a
full-bodied ‘Nothing Sacred – Meritage’ red
blend from BC winery Blasted Church.
Todd Kunst, owner of Canmore’s Sage Bistro
& Wine Lounge (p 94) adds that a Bordeaux
blend of cabernet, merlot and cabernet franc
matches bison’s flavour profile. “The wine's
cherry, chocolate, vanilla and cinnamon
notes complement the meat,” he says.
Sage puts its own creative spin on game with
offerings like elk salami charcuterie share
plates. This rustic log cabin restaurant uses
fresh local ingredients, and wine flights let
guests sample several varieties side by side.
“With game, a hint of dried fruit in a wine is
often a good thing,” Greaves says. He notes
that personal preference plays a role, too.
As for antlered animals, smoky, earthy reds
like syrah, grenache and mourvedre go well
with elk and venison, Kunst says. Chafe
describes the meats’ flavours as “strong and
mature”, adding that Burrowing Owl winery’s
syrah is a top pick for the venison loin and
carpaccio served at the Moose’s Nook.
While some say game meat is an acquired
taste, we say there’s no place better than our
Great White North to step into the culinary
world of wine and game.
pairings
game
&wine
Beef-to-bison converts love the latter’s leanness, while elk is
popular with visitors who want to taste ranch-raised cousins
of the game animals that adorn our mountain landscapes.
By Afton Aikens
PHOTO:ELK,EDEN