Organic Gardening Guidelines ~ Teacher Guide

Garden Organic, Ryton Gardens,
Coventry, Warwickshire CV8 3LG
Tel: 024 7630 3517
Fax: 024 7663 9229
Email: enquiry@gardenorganic.org.uk

www.gardenorganic.org.uk

Organic Gardening
Guidelines

Contents
Introducing the guidelines ................................................page 4
Organic acceptability ratings ...........................................page 7
Organic soil care ................................................................page 8
Techniques
Crop rotation
Bulky organic materials
Organic fertilisers

Plant raising and growing in containers ........................page 17
Seeds and other planting material
Growing media
Plant raising and growing in containers
Liquid feeds

Garden and plant health .................................................page 22
Keeping the garden healthy
Cleaning structures and containers
Managing pests and diseases

Weeds ...............................................................................page 29
Techniques
Mulches for weed clearance and control

Water use .........................................................................page 32
Wood (timber) in the garden .........................................page 34
Energy use in the garden ................................................page 36
To find out more ..............................................................page 38
The Organic Gardening Guidelines are also available on the Garden Organic website
Designed and set by Cottier & Sidaway
©1999 Garden Organic. Update & reprint ©2010

3

Organic Gardening Guidelines
Why organic gardening matters
Gardening and growing offers great benefits for us all – benefits for the
environment, for people’s health and wellbeing, for food security and for
building stronger communities. Our outdoor growing space, be it the garden,
the allotment, the school or community garden or just a small space nearby, is a
place where we relax and recharge both spiritually and physically. It is also a
place where we can learn and reconnect with nature and the food we eat and
where we can take practical action to adopt sustainable lifestyles. Using the
organic approach to gardening and growing, which Garden Organic has been
promoting for over 50 years, will ensure that these benefits can be achieved and
enjoyed to their full potential.
Organic gardening methods harness the natural cycles and processes that
promote plant growth. These guidelines outline what organic gardening means
in practice. Following them will help you to care for the environment and to cut
your ‘carbon footprint’ by ‘reducing, reusing and recycling’ resources, while
creating a flourishing growing space.

All gardens and gardeners
Garden Organic’s guidelines cover every area of gardening – from fruit and
vegetable growing to lawns and ornamentals, from herbs to hanging baskets,
from paths to pergolas. They are for use by all levels of gardener, from the raw
novice to the experienced professional. The methods are particularly relevant for
use by children, the gardeners of the future.
The word ‘garden’ is used as a generic term to mean garden, allotment, balcony,
school or community plot or wherever else you may be growing.

A voluntary code
These Organic Gardening Guidelines are a voluntary code of practice, and
following, or signing up, to them does not permit the sale of produce labelled as
organic. The guidelines are based on the principles and practices of organic
agriculture, as defined by the International Federation of Organic Agriculture
Movements (IFOAM) and they have been interpreted and adapted by Garden
Organic to apply to garden scale growing.

4

Tel: 024 7630 3517 • enquiry@gardenorganic.org.uk

Organic Gardening Guidelines

How the Guidelines work
These guidelines are divided into ten sections, each covering different aspects of
garden care. Each section starts with general principles, followed by detailed
lists of the practices, materials and products that can, or should not, be used in
an organic garden. These have been divided up into four categories, or ratings,
from ‘Best organic practice’ to ‘Never acceptable in an organic garden’. See over
page for details.

Taking things further
These guidelines are not a gardening manual. They are designed to be used
alongside good gardening practice, which is the mainstay of all gardening.
Sources of further information are listed on page 38.

FS

Garden Organic factsheets

Garden Organic produces factsheets on a wide range of organic gardening
topics. Those relevant to the subjects covered in these guidelines are listed under
the FS symbol throughout this booklet.
Factsheets can be viewed on our website, or send for a list to Gardening Advice,
Garden Organic, Ryton Gardens, Coventry CV8 3LG, 024 7630 3517


5

Organic acceptability ratings
These guidelines recognize that the level of organic gardening you undertake is
dependent on personal choice and circumstance – hence the three levels of
‘organic acceptability’. We have given each level a different ‘smiley’ face, so that
the guidelines are easy to interpret at glance.

Best organic practice – the first choice
Acceptable organic practice
Acceptable, but not for regular use
Never acceptable in an organic garden

In an ideal world, every garden would be run using only ‘Best organic
practice’ but this is not realistic in this day and age. We hope that, as you gain
experience, and your garden develops organically, you will be able to move
more towards and away from .
The
‘Never acceptable in an organic garden’ category is not a comprehensive
list. If practices or products in this category, or that do not fall into one of the
acceptable categories, is used, the garden would not be considered as organic
under these guidelines.

The issues
Organic gardening does not stop at the garden gate, and to create a sustainable
future we must also look to the wider environment. But these guidelines must
also be practical and manageable. The issues that have been considered when
deciding on which ‘smiley face’ to allocate to a practice or product are outlined
in the table opposite.
It is not always easy to make a precise decision, and there are times when you
will need to make your own value judgements. Would you, for example,
consider an imported product with an organic symbol more acceptable than a
local product, not organically produced?
Taking all these issues into account, we have aimed to ensure that these Organic
Gardening Guidelines are practical.

6


Organic acceptability ratings

Best organic
practice – the
first choice

Acceptable
organic practice

Acceptable, but
not for regular
use

Never
acceptable in an
organic garden

Organic
credentials

Organically
grown or from
recognised
organic sources,
preferably with a
recognised
organic symbol

From low input
and low impact
systems

From non organic
sources, but
within certain
limits

Not organic and
outside any
limits set

Ecological
impact in use

Enhancing and
harnessing
natural processes

No particular
environmental
benefit

Possible negative
impact

Ecologically
harmful

Toxicity

None

Low

May kill
organisms other
than those
targeted

Unacceptably
toxic, and/or
persistent in the
environment

Sustainability

Sustainable

Sustainable

May not be
sustainable in the
longer term

Unsustainable

Sources

Garden/
allotment

Local/regional

National/
imported

Imported

Materials

Reused

Recycled waste
product

New materials

Highly processed

Energy use

Little or no fossil
fuel energy
required in use or
manufacture

Fossil fuel energy
required in use or
manufacture

Fossil fuel energy
required in use or
manufacture

Unacceptable
fossil fuel energy
required in use or
manufacture

Packaging

Loose/no
packaging

Environmentally
sound/minimal
packaging

Non recyclable
packaging

Excessive nonrecyclable
packaging

Disposal

None required

Disposal causes
little or no
environmental
hazard

Disposal may be
hazardous to the
environment

Disposal
hazardous to the
environment
and/or human
health


7

Organic soil care
A healthy soil is the basis for growing healthy plants and healthy food. The soil
is full of life – worms, fungi, bacteria and other microscopic creatures – which
create its structure and fertility. When looking after your soil organically you
will be improving the diversity, and supporting the activity, of these vital
creatures. You will be avoiding activities and inputs that disrupt and harm the
soil ecosystem.

Techniques
Activities and practices for organic soil care
Get to know the soil you are working with
Grow plants that suit the existing soil conditions. Where necessary, use
organic methods to improve the soil, but don’t try to change soil
conditions too drastically
Keep the soil covered with growing plants, green manure cover crops,
or an organic mulch. This protects and improves the soil structure
Grow green manures to improve soil structure and to recycle, and add,
plant foods. This includes clover in lawns
Maintain soil humus levels, biological activity and fertility, where
necessary, by applying home made compost, or other bulky organic
materials in appropriate quantities and at the appropriate season (see
pages 8-11, and factsheets.)
Recycle organic kitchen and garden waste within the garden, by making
compost, or through other processes such as making leafmould
Use a crop rotation (see page 7)
No dig techniques
Minimal soil cultivation, as necessary
Rotavating, to clear ground or turn in green manures
Digging between November and February, other than on clay soils to
leave ground exposed to frost

8


Organic soil care

Using excessive quantities of nutrient rich manures and fertilisers
Unnecessary digging, rotavating and other soil cultivations
Growing food on potentially contaminated soils, such as brownfield
sites, unless analysis shows that the levels of contamination are
acceptable (see FS )

Crop rotation
Crop rotation is an essential technique for managing soil fertility, and for pest
and disease control.
Briefly, crop rotation means not replanting the same type of plant, or another
of the same family, in the same site for a period of years. It is most often used
with annual vegetables, but the same principles can be applied to perennial
fruit crops and other plants.
• An interval of at least 3 years, or more between plants of the same family,
or longer if necessary where a specific problem is identified
• Include nitrogen fixing green manures in a vegetable crop rotation
• In a greenhouse, where a 4 year rotation may not be possible, pay
particular attention to building and maintaining soil health
• Alternate fertility building crops with those which take a lot from the soil
• Alternate weed suppressing plants with those that compete poorly
with weeds
FS Garden Organic factsheets
FS
FS
FS
FS
FS
FS
FS
FS
FS

Composts and manures in the organic garden
Contaminated soils, manures and plant wastes
Crop rotation
Green Manures
How to make compost
Know your soil
Managing your soil
Mulches for weed prevention and control
Using woody garden waste

9

Organic soil care

Bulky organic soil improvers
Bulky organic soil improvers are materials such as garden compost and strawy
manure; they are bulky, as compared with a bag of fertiliser, and their
ingredients are ‘organic’ in that they are of living origin. In an ideal world they
would all contain only organically grown ingredients.
Bulky organic soil improvers are generally ‘waste’ materials. Recycling plant
and animal wastes in the soil imitates the recycling of nutrients carried out in
nature, and is the mainstay of organic soil fertility.
Bulky organic materials are high in plant fibre, which is a vital food for the soil
life that builds and maintains the soil structure. They also contain plant foods, in
levels that will vary between different types of material, and how those
materials have been stored.
Waste materials from your kitchen and your growing plot should be your first
choice. Then try and source further materials as locally as possible. Manures,
straw or hay should be obtained only from organic, or low input systems.
When buying ‘commercial’ products, choose those with an organic symbol, or
wording, from an approved organic certification organisation, where possible.

Storing and processing plant and animal wastes
Bulky plant materials and animal manures should be composted or left to rot
down before use. The composting process stabilises the material, reduces or
destroys pathogens and weed seeds, and makes the materials easier to handle
and apply. Keep the heap covered to reduce loss of plant foods (which can be
washed out by rain) and prevent weed seeds being blown onto the heap.
Materials from non-organic sources should be composted or stored for at least
6 months before use.

Rates of use
It is important not to ‘overdose’ the soil with nutrient rich manures and
composts. This is wasteful of resources, can cause pollution, and can encourage
excessive growth that is more vulnerable to pest and disease attack. For
recommended rates of use see page 13.

10


Organic soil care

Bulky organic soil improvers – Plant wastes
Home made compost, and worm compost, made from weeds and plant
residues; kitchen waste; low grade paper and card; other compostable
household ‘waste’
Autumn leaves and leafmould
Shredded woody prunings
Lawn mowings, comfrey leaves and other fresh green materials. These
make ideal compost activators
All the above should come from within the individual garden (or
allotment, field, growing plot)
Grow green manure cover crops
Autumn leaves from local parks, cemeteries and other traffic-free areas
Bought in composts made from green waste and other materials approved
in these guidelines. Ideally with a recognised organic symbol or
conforming to PAS 100 standard
Straw and hay, from organic sources
Shredded prunings from local sources
Chipped or shredded wood – from wood not treated with preservatives
Composted bark, from Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) forests,
preferably organically approved
Sawdust and wood shavings, preferably from local sources, from wood
not treated with preservatives
Other local waste plant materials, such as bracken and spent hops,
composted before use if not from a certified organic source
Mushroom compost from certified organic sources


11

Organic soil care

Straw and hay from non-organic, non-intensive systems. Check with
supplier as to what herbicides have been used; some may harm plants
Mushroom compost from non-organic mushroom producers, stored
under cover, or composted, for six months before use
Peat or coir as a soil conditioner
Leaves from busy roadsides and other polluted locations
Leaves and leafmould collected from woodlands
Any materials contaminated with excessive levels of potentially toxic
elements, (see FS ).

12


Organic soil care

Bulky organic soil improvers – Application rates
and timing
Material

Timing and Maximum rate of application

Compost – garden,
home made

Apply in spring, summer, or early autumn
Use up to 1 wheelbarrowful per 5 sq. metres per year

Compost – green waste

Apply at any time

Compost – worm

Apply in spring, summer, or early autumn

Leafmould

Apply at any time, in a layer 2-3cm deep

Manure – straw based
animal manures
(ex. poultry)

Apply when well rotted, in spring, summer or
early autumn

Manure – poultry, with
bedding material

Apply when well rotted, in spring, summer or
early autumn

Topsoil
Where the layer of topsoil is inadequate, or nonexistent, bought in topsoil
conforming to BSI standards, can be used, along with the materials listed
in this bulky organic soil improvers section.


13

Organic soil care

Bulky organic soil improvers – Animal wastes
Organic farms, apart from some poultry farms, must recycle manures on the
farm, so you are unlikely to be able to obtain certified organic manures. Try to
source manures from ‘free range’ or low input farms/smallholdings. Do not use
manures from factory farming systems or where animals have been fed
genetically modified (GM) crops. The way in which these materials are stored, or
processed before use, and the rates and timing of application is vital to their
acceptability in organic growing (see pages 10 and 13).
Well rotted manures and bedding from herbivorous pets, and any
livestock kept in the individual garden (or allotment, field, growing plot),
applied at appropriate rates and times
Straw-based horse, cattle, pig, sheep and goat manures, from organic
systems. It should be well rotted before use and applied at appropriate
rates and times
Straw-based horse, cattle, pig, sheep and goat manures, from non
intensive systems. It must be well rotted before use
Wood shavings based horse manure. This must be very well rotted
before use
Poultry manures from non intensive egg and meat-producing systems.
Commercially available, composted, straw-based animal manures,
preferably with an organic symbol
Chicken manure pellets – see Animal based fertilisers, page 15
Manure applied in late autumn or winter months
Fresh manures
Manures, and processed animal by-products, from intensive farming
Materials polluted with heavy metals and other pollutants that exceed the
permitted levels, (see FS )
Products containing sewage
Compost activators containing artificial fertilisers
Manures from livestock fed on genetically modified crops

14


Organic soil care

Organic fertilisers
Composted plant wastes and manures, and green manures (particularly nitrogen
fixing legumes), are the main ways of adding plant foods to the soil. Organic
fertilizers are only used where a soil or plant deficiency occurs which cannot be
remedied otherwise, or where you cannot make, or bring in, enough compost or
other bulky organic materials.
Fertilisers suitable for use in an organic garden are of plant, animal or mineral
origin. Most of them are waste products. The action of soil living creatures, or
the weather, makes the nutrients they contain available to plants, in a ‘slow
release’ way. The mining and/or shipping of some of these products can have an
adverse environmental impact, so think carefully before use. Choose a product
with a recognised organic symbol as first choice.

Liquid feeds see page 20
Plant based fertilisers
Home grown nettle, comfrey and other leaves used in a planting trench
or as a mulch
Wood ash, from wood not chemically treated after felling, recycled
through a compost heap.
Dried seaweed meal – from sustainable sources
Fertilisers based on plant waste products and extracts, such as kali
vinasse, lucerne, comfrey, cocoa shells

Animal based fertilisers
None
None

15

Organic soil care

Meat, blood,bone, hoof and horn meals, on areas where no livestock have
access, and in growing media
Chicken manure pellets, from organic sources only, with a recognised
organic symbol
Wool based products, not containing pesticide residues.

Mineral based fertilizers, and materials for raising pH (liming)
Natural forms of calcium carbonate and calcium/magnesium carbonate,
including ground limestone, chalk, marl and magnesian limestone
(dolomite). Use for raising soil pH, and as sources of calcium and
magnesium.
Calcium sulphate (gypsum)
Ground rock phosphate
Aluminium calcium phosphate, where soil pH is over 7.5. (Cadmium
content must be less than 90mg cadmium per kg phosphate)
Rock dust (stone meal), if a by-product of quarrying
Calcified seaweed
Slaked lime
Quicklime

Soluble chemical fertilisers
Guano, urea, Chilean nitrate

Materials to supply trace elements
Rock dust and stone meals if by-products of the quarry industry
Seaweed meal and liquid seaweed extracts
Sulphur dust or chips
Calcium chloride solution, for treatment of bitter pit in apples
Manganese sulphate
Borax (for boron deficiency)
Epsom salts, for acute magnesium deficiency
Fertilisers and liquid feeds containing boron, copper, iron, molybdenum,
cobalt, selenium, zinc, sodium

16


Seeds and other planting material
Start with good quality sowing and planting material to help ensure healthy
plants. Organic seeds, plants, tubers and other planting material are available,
but growing your own is ideal where possible.
Home saved seed, from disease-free parent plants
Home-grown transplants, preferably bare root
Seeds, tubers, sets, bulbs, plants and transplants with an organic symbol
from an approved organic certification body
Seeds, tubers, sets and bulbs from non-organic sources, where not
available as organic. They must not have been treated with fungicides
after harvest
Container grown plants and transplants in peat-free growing media,
but without an accredited organic symbol
Natural hormone products, such as seaweed extract, to promote rooting
of cuttings
Container grown plants and transplants in peat-based growing media,
but without an accredited organic symbol
Plants taken from the wild
Genetically modified seeds and planting material, should they
become available
Seeds, bulbs, sets and tubers treated with fungicides after harvest
Synthetic hormone rooting powders

Cleaning structures and containers see page 24


17


Growing media
An organic growing medium – seed, potting, or multipurpose compost – has, as
its main ingredient, biologically active material, such as composted plant wastes.
Seed compost should be low in nutrients. Other mixes should provide plants
with nutrients for as long as possible, to limit the need for liquid feeding.
Make your own growing media using home made garden compost and
other bulky organic ingredients from those listed in the Soil Care section
Loam from the garden as an ingredient in growing media, returned to the
garden after use
Organic fertilisers, including animal by-products, as ingredients of
growing media
Commercially available growing media, with an organic symbol, or
wording, from an approved organic certification organisation
Commercially available growing media containing materials listed in the
Soil Care section of these guidelines
Coarse grade seaweed meal for moisture retention
Sulphur chips to lower pH (increase acidity)
Horticultural sand and grit
Vermiculite and perlite
Coir
Bought in loam (topsoil)
Growing media containing materials not approved in these guidelines,
including non-organic fertilisers and peat
Peat, other than recycled/reclaimed peat
FS
FS

18

Make your own potting compost
Hanging basket liners



The basis of organic growing is a healthy, biologically active, soil, which supplies
plants with all their needs. Plants growing in the restricted environment of a pot
will always be more reliant on additional feeding and watering, and be more
prone to pest and disease. Growing directly in the ground is recommended
where possible.
Use an organic growing medium (see page 18)
Use the largest appropriate container size to reduce the need for
additional feeding, and the risk of drying out
Home made paper pots, wooden trays, foodstuff and other reused and
recycled containers
Hanging basket liners made from recycled, biodegradable materials
such as moss from your lawn, hay or a pure wool jumper.
Cleaning containers with steam, hot water, scrubbing and high
pressure hose
Reused plastic pots and trays; clay pots
Biodegradable hanging basket liners
Commercially available pots made from paper, plant wastes and other
biodegradable materials, excluding peat
Plant tonics and biostimulants as on page 23 of these guidelines
Composted organic materials and organic fertilisers for additional feeding
Organic liquid feeds
Strong plastic pots and trays, preferably made from recycled plastic, that
can be reused many times
Tyres as a container for growing food crops, unless lined first
Moss gathered from the wild for hanging basket liners
Hydroponic systems
Peat pots


19


Liquid feeds
Organic liquid feeds provide nutrients in a more readily available form than
composts and fertilisers, but do little to encourage soil flora and fauna. For this
reason, in organic gardening they are only used on plants growing in a restricted
environment such as a container – seed tray, pot, growing bag, hanging basket
etc – or in a greenhouse or polytunnel soil border. The major supply of nutrients
should always come from the compost or soil in which the plants are growing.
See also : Plant tonics, stimulants and microbial products, (page 23)
None
Home made liquid feeds made from comfrey leaves, nettles and other
plant wastes
Liquid from worm composting systems
Liquid feeds made from manures from livestock kept in the garden
or allotment
Liquid feeds based on plant products approved in these guidelines,
preferably with an organic symbol, or wording, from an approved
organic certification organisation
Liquid feeds made from brought in animal manures that are acceptable
under these Guidelines (see page 14)
Commercially available liquid feeds based on animal by-products
approved in these Guidelines, preferably with an organic symbol, or
Products containing trace elements to correct deficiencies that cannot be
corrected in any other way (see page 16)
Fish emulsion, unless based on waste products of organic fishing industry
Products containing artificially produced nutrients

20


Garden and plant health
The idea of a healthy garden, rather than simply pest and disease free plants, is
at the heart of organic growing. The first part of this section, Keeping the garden
healthy, looks at ways of maintaining a garden with a diverse, vigorous,
ecosystem that can, to a great extent, look after its own well-being.
More specific action is only taken as necessary against particular pests, diseases
or adverse environmental factors. This is covered in the section Managing pests
and diseases, (pages 25-28).

Keeping the garden healthy
Use the information in all sections of these organic guidelines, combined with
good horticultural practice, to help you create and maintain a diverse active
ecosystem in your garden, both below and above ground.

General gardening
Create a fertile, biologically active soil. Add composted organic materials
to help reduce soil pests and diseases, and increase plant resistance.
Use a crop rotation, minimum four year, for annual vegetables
(see page 9)
Grow plants that suit the location and soil type
Start with healthy seeds, tubers, plants, fruit bushes, shrubs and other
planting material, certified disease free where possible
Grow varieties with some resistance to pest and disease
Choose sowing and planting dates to avoid specific pests and diseases
To reduce risk of diseases developing, prune trees and bushes, design
plantings, and keep greenhouses and other protective structures well
ventilated, to allow a good airflow
When watering, apply water to the soil rather than the plant foliage
Ensure plants have an appropriate supply of water


21


Biodiversity
Grow a diversity of plants to provide food, shelter and habitats for
predators, parasites, and other wildlife
Leave some ‘relaxed’ areas, such as leaves under a hedge, weeds, or an
area of longer grass and for example, to feed and shelter wildlife
There will always be ‘pests’ present, but they do not always create a
problem. They are also a necessary source of food for valuable predators
and parasites
Learn to recognise the many creatures, from hedgehogs to hoverflies,
which consume pests, and disease-causing organisms, as part of their diet
Where practical, grow a mix of types and varieties of plant to reduce risk
of pest and disease infestation and spread. This includes companion
planting

Plant tonics, stimulants and microbial products
Plant tonics and biostimulants may help to promote plant growth and boost a
plant’s natural defences against pests and diseases.
Home made compost ‘teas’
Liquid seaweed extract
Microbial products, including mycorhizzae

22



Cleaning greenhouses and other structures, and pots,
tubs and other containers
Pressure-washing
Hot water/steam and scrubbing
Natural plant essences including citrus juices
Natural cleaning products such as vinegar, bicarbonate of soda
FS
FS
FS
FS
FS
FS

Crop rotation
Companion or mixed planting
Organic pest and disease control
Various wildlife gardening factsheets
Water use in the garden
See also: Factsheets on page 9


23


Managing pests, diseases and other causes of plant
ill health
Prevention is the key to success when dealing with plant problems. The section
‘Keeping the garden healthy’ (pages 21 – 23) covers ways in which this can
be done.
When a specific problem arises, it is important to identify the cause, so you can
decide if any action is needed (many plants can live quite happily with some
pest or disease infestation) and, if so, to plan an appropriate strategy for dealing
with it. Note that environmental factors such as waterlogging, frost, cold winds
and ‘human’ factors such as strimmer damage or over-feeding, can also cause
plant symptoms.
Where problems are known to occur regularly, there are a range of ‘plant
protection’ barriers and traps that can be used.
There are a few pesticide sprays that can be used in organic growing, but they
are not harmless, and you should keep their use to a minimum. If you find
yourself having to use pesticides regularly, despite using the other strategies
suggested, then perhaps you might consider growing something different.

24



Biological and physical methods
Encourage biodiversity
Learn to tell the difference between creatures that can harm plants and
those that will not
Check plants regularly, squashing or picking off pests and infected foliage
as they occur
Use other physical methods, such as shaking the plant or dislodging pests
with a sharp jet of water
Learn about the life cycle of pests and diseases to help develop strategies
to combat them
Use comfrey and other leaves as slug baits and barriers
None
Biological control agents. These are natural predators and pathogens that
can be purchased for controlling specific pests.
Plastic bottle cloches, home-made from used bottles
Crop covers including horticultural fleece and fine mesh materials
Netting, plastic and wire; gauge appropriate to size of pest
Electric fencing
Fruit tree grease and grease bands
Yellow sticky traps, without added pesticides. For use in greenhouse or
conservatory only, unless for monitoring pest presence
Cabbage root fly mats, preferably home made
Copper tape
Granules, and other similar commercially available physical barriers,
against slugs
Pheromone baited sticky traps, not containing pesticides – for monitoring
pest presence only
Slug traps baited with beer or other attractants, not containing pesticides


25


Barriers and crop covers
Barriers and crop covers can be very effective, and harmless to wildlife. The
reason they are in this category is because of concerns over the energy used to
make them, their lifespan, and how they are disposed of. Try to recycle waste
materials, and avoid single use of new materials.


Detailed factsheets on a whole range of pests and diseases are available. They
can be found on www.gardenorganic.org.uk, or contact Garden Organic for a
full list.
J Lillywhite

26



Pest and disease control sprays
Although less harmful than many pesticides, the products listed here can still
disrupt the natural ecosystem, and may harm other creatures. Avoid their use
where possible, and concentrate on using all the other available organic
methods. Use only those products containing the ‘active ingredients’ listed
below. Always follow the instructions for use on the product label.

For pest control
Plant oils and other plant based products with a physical mode of action
Starch based products with a physical mode of action
Natural pyrethrum products (pyrethrins extracted from Chrysanthemum
cinerariaefolium)
Fatty acid potassium salt soaps
Iron phosphate (Iron (III) orthophosphate) slug pellets
Microbes and microbal extracts such as Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) – note
that products containing Bt are only available to professional growers

For disease control
Potassium bicarbonate (>99.0% w/w Potassium Hydrogen
Carbonate (Bicarbonate))
Sulphur

For rodent control
Mouse traps
Rodenticides, approved by the Pesticide Safety Directorate, used in
tamper-proof bait stations


27


Copper based fungicides. These guidelines recognise the environmental
hazards of these products, and no longer recommend their use in organic
growing
Any active ingredient/product not registered as a pesticide with the
Pesticide Safety Directorate; this includes homemade pesticide sprays,
washing up liquid, or any other household products
Any other pesticide not included in the Garden Organic Guidelines
J Bartlett

28


Weeds
Clearance, management and control
A weed is an opportunist plant that will rapidly appear in bare soil and can
become a nuisance to gardeners, completing for light, water, nutrients and space
with ‘desired’ plants.
They may be wild plants, or cultivated plants that have spread too far. Weeds
also bring biodiversity to a garden and some can be vital in to the survival of
butterflies and other wildlife.
Where necessary, weeds can be managed using the range of methods outlined
below. Prevention is the key and cuts down on the work in the long run.
There are no organic herbicides for clearing weedy ground of perennial weeds,
but there are other methods that can be used. It is worth allowing sufficient time
(which could be months or even a year or more) to clear perennial weeds
completely, before planting up with perennial plants such as fruit bushes,
shrubs or herbaceous flowers.

Clearing weedy ground
Cover the ground with a mulch (Guidelines ‘rating’ will depend on
material used)
Cultivate by hand (digging etc)
Use livestock, such as pigs, chickens, geese
Mow/ cut to clear certain weeds
Cultivate with a rotavator or other mechanical cultivator

Maintenance
Grow ground cover plants, including green manures
Use close spacing (where appropriate), vigorous varieties, intercropping
and undersowing to inhibit weed germination and growth
Clear perennial weeds thoroughly before planting perennial plants
Hand weeding, hoe, dig out
Cut problem weeds, such as docks and thistles, to prevent them seeding

29

Weeds

Cover the ground with a mulch (Guidelines ‘rating’ will depend on
material used)
Design the garden to limit areas where weeds can become a problem
Keep soil disturbance to a minimum to avoid bringing dormant weeds to
the surface
Crop rotation (see page 9)
Stale seedbed before sowing

Paths, drives and other hard surfaces
Reduce shade from plants to discourage algae and moss
Pressure wash, or clean with a stiff brush
Construct paths, driveways and other hard surfaces well, to prevent
weeds growing through from below, or taking hold on the surface
Use regularly – surfaces not used regularly are more likely to grow weeds
Hoe gravel
Use a thermal/flame weeder
Weed killing sprays containing fatty acids, such as pelargonic acid, as the
active ingredient; for hard landscaping only

Biodiversity
Recognise that weeds can bring something positive to your garden
Allow some weeds to flourish where they are not going to compete with
your chosen plants

Lawns
Accept a certain level of ‘weeds’ in a lawn, and recognise their benefits
Amend soil pH, drainage and fertility as appropriate to encourage
vigorous growth
Choose appropriate varieties of grass seeds for location and use
Don’t cut grass too short, particularly in dry weather

30


Weeds

Mulches for weed clearance and control
See also: Bulky organic soil improvers – plant wastes (page 11)
Recycled plant materials from garden or allotment.
Cardboard and newspaper
Loose mulches, commercially available, with an organic symbol, or
Loose mulches, commercially available, made from recycled plant
materials. Products from local sources, and those not packaged are
preferable
Biodegradable mulch fabrics made from paper, wool, hemp and other
natural materials; also biodegradable, non-GM, starch based materials.
Bagged biodegradable mulches from non organic sources
Inert materials such as gravel, slate waste, recycled glass – preferably from
recycled and/or local sources. Consider environmental impact
Permeable synthetic materials – [polypropylene, polyethylene or other
polycarbonates only] for ground clearance, long-term plantings and under
paths, driveways etc.
Impermeable synthetic materials, such as black polythene – for ground
clearance only
Any materials from unsustainable sources
Carpet as a mulch
FS
FS

Chemical-free plot clearing
Mulches for weed prevention and control

Organic Weed Management website
For more detailed information on organic weed control, particularly for farmers
and growers, but also of interest to gardeners, go to www.organicweeds.org.uk


31

Water Use
The aim in an organic garden is to minimise the need for watering, and to collect
rainwater as possible for use in the garden. Where watering is necessary, water
should be applied in ways that make best use of it.
Gardens act as valuable ‘soakaways’ for rainwater – an increasingly important
function with the increase in heavy downpours. Do not pave or tarmac a whole
garden. Even areas used for parking can incorporate some soakaway areas.
Where soil is light and free draining, grow drought tolerant plants
Maximise water holding capacity of soil by adding organic matter
(see pages 10 – 14)
Mulch the soil to reduce water loss (see page 31)
Keep soil cultivations to a minimum
Don’t cut lawn grass shorter than 2.5cm; leave it slightly longer in
drought conditions
Allow weeds such as clover and yarrow to grow in a lawn; they will help
to keep it green in dry weather
Ensure pond liners don’t leak, reducing the need for topping up
Try to sow or transplant just before rain is forecast, rather than just before
a spell of dry weather
Protect young plants from sun and drying winds
Collect as much rain water as you can
Think before you water; water mainly to establish plants; many,
particularly shrubs, trees and perennials rarely need watering
Make effective use of water by only watering at key points in a plant’s
lifecycle, and then only if necessary
Give the ground around plants a good soaking so that the water
penetrates the soil, rather than just moistening the surface
Apply water to the soil rather than foliage. A hand held hose or watering
can will direct the water where it is needed
If using an irrigation system, chose a drip system rather than sprinklers
To minimise losses through evaporation, water in the evening, or at night,
rather than in the heat of the day
Use ‘grey’ water, from baths, sinks and showers, to water non-food plants

32


Water Use

Ineffective and wasteful use of water
FS
FS

Water in the organic garden factsheet
Mulches


33

Wood (timber) in the garden
Wood has many uses in the garden, including fencing, compost bins, support
structures, bed edging and garden furniture. In an organic garden it is important
to consider the source of the wood, to minimise the need for wood preservatives,
and to use the least damaging preservative treatments if essential.
The degree of protection that wood requires differs with the type of wood, and
the situation it is being used in. Rotting is most likely in situations where the
wood is in contact with both moisture and air, such as at the base of fence posts.
Where timber is being used for structural purposes, such as decking, then safety
takes precedence and it would be wise to use pre-treated wood. If wood is used
for bed edging, or a compost box, it can be left untreated; it can last for years
without any preservatives.
Coppice products, from your own garden or allotment – for plant support
structures, bed edging, furniture and other appropriate uses
Choose species of wood more resistant to rotting. Species vary
considerably in durability
Accept that the wood will rot eventually, and replace it as necessary
Coppice products bought in from sustainable sources, preferably local –
for plant support structures, bed edging, furniture and other appropriate
uses
New timber from sustainable sources, with an accredited mark to prove it.
Look for accreditation, such as the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC),
Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certification (PEFC) or the Soil
Association (SA) woodmark. UK or European produced timber is
preferable
Second-hand/reclaimed timber, though it can be difficult to know if it has
been treated with preservatives
Organically grown timber – only used for furniture at present
Railway sleepers, not treated with creosote or other preservative
treatment
Builders scaffolding boards. Usually untreated, but always check
before purchase
Linseed oil wood treatment

34


Wood (timber) in the garden

Synthetic ‘wood’ alternatives, made from recycled materials such as
plastics
Wood from unsustainable forests, particularly from tropical regions
Wood treated with creosote, including old railway sleepers
New and ‘second hand’ wood treated with Copper Chrome Arsenic
pressure treatment
There are no approved wood preservative treatments for use in an organic
garden, but for health and safety issues, there may be times when use of
preservative treated wood is essential. For more information see our ‘Using
wood in the garden’ factsheet.
FS

Using wood in the garden


35

Energy use in the garden
Energy use – in manufacture, processing, packaging, transportation, and final
use – has been taken into account in every sector of these guidelines. The aim is,
of course, to cut it to a minimum. But it makes sense to ‘think energy’ in all
gardening activities including garden design and storage of garden produce.
Your garden might also be used to harvest ‘green’ energy.
Build soil fertility by growing nitrogen fixing plants
Buy second hand, or sturdy, long lasting tools and recycle and repair tools
were possible
Use manual, rather than powered, tools e.g. push lawnmower, shears,
lawn rake
Use solar energy for lighting garden paths and sheds, running water
pumps, and greenhouse ventilation
Use non-electric automatic vents to ventilate a greenhouse.
Use wood from the garden for stakes and supports, or firewood
Use a lean-to green greenhouse where the back wall will store solar heat.
Water filled tanks and bottles also store heat
Grow seasonally to reduce requirement for heating
Insulate greenhouses
Use manure based hot beds to provide low level heat for raising seedlings
Use cold storage, clamps or other traditional preserving methods
Heated bench for additional greenhouse heating
Use fleece to protect plants in greenhouse or cold frame from frost
When store garden produce in a fridge or freezer, use A++ appliances, set
to the minimum temperature necessary
Where engine or lubricant oils are needed, use plant-based oils (bio-diesel,
bio-lubricant) as they are fully biodegradable
Use the garden to harvest energy, such as ground source heating systems
or solar hot water panels mounted on a pergola or a garden shed

36


Energy use in the garden

Petrol and electricity driven tools until they can be replaced by
alternatives
Gas, electricity and other fuels from non-renewable sources to heat
greenhouses, where essential and with care to minimise losses
Inefficient and wasteful use of fossil fuel derived energy
Fossil fuel fired patio heaters
R Spence


37

To find out more
These guidelines cover every aspect of gardening organically, but they are not a
gardening manual. Garden Organic also offers practical gardening advice, tips
and training from the following sources:
Garden Organic website: monthly updates on what to do in the garden,
factsheets, growing advice, news, books, and more. www.gardenorganic.org.uk
Garden Organic e-news: a monthly round-up of the best seasonal gardening
advice, updates on our charitable work, plus offers, products, prizes and more.
Sign up through our website or phone the number below.
Gardening advice service: free email, phone and letter advice to Garden
Organic members.
Gardens to visit: you can see organic gardening in action at Garden Organics,
Ryton Garden and, in partnership with English Heritage, at Audley End organic
kitchen garden.
Training courses: Garden Organic runs a range of courses throughout the year
at our Warwickshire headquarters. Visit our website or call us for listings of all
of our courses. You can also take the City & Guilds Level 2 Certificate in Organic
Gardening, devised by Garden Organic in association with NPTC at a number of
colleges across the UK. The course is aimed at amateur gardeners who would
like to gain the knowledge and skills for growing vegetables organically. This is
an introductory course suitable for those new to vegetable growing. Contact
Garden Organic for a list of colleges running this course.
Books and booklets: view the list on our website, or send for a list of our
publications.
The Organic Gardening Catalogue: the one-stop shop for all your organic
gardening needs, including seeds, composts, books and other sundries.
www.organiccatalogue.com 0845 130 1304.

38


About

Garden Organic
Garden Organic is the national charity dedicated to researching and
promoting sustainable growing, and has been at the forefront of
organic horticulture for over 50 years.
We are an influential, dynamic and committed organisation and believe passionately in
an organic approach to a sustainable future for people and the planet.
We actively engage with a variety of individuals and groups as part of our work,
including over 6000 UK schools, inspiring and educating all generations on the benefits
of organic growing.

Help support a sustainable future –
Join Garden Organic
Our members are vital in supporting our work, enabling us to continue to research,
demonstrate and promote sustainable growing methods. Members are kept up to date
about our work, and provided with organic gardening hints and tips, through our
magazine “The Organic Way” (the UK’s only dedicated organic gardening magazine),
as well as receiving discounts on all purchases from The Organic Gardening Catalogue,
and free access to our gardens and library of organic factsheets.
To find out more, or to become a member of Garden Organic, please call 02476 308
210, or visit www.gardenorganic.org.uk/join.php

Make a donation
As a charity Garden Organic relies on donations from like-minded individuals who
kindly support our work both in the UK and around the globe.
If you can afford to make any donation, no matter how small or large, please call
02476 308 210, or go to www.gardenorganic.org.uk/donate

Garden Organic, Ryton Gardens, Coventry, CV8 3LG
024 7630 3517 • www.gardenorganic.org.uk

Garden Organic is the UK’s leading
organic growing charity, and is dedicated
to researching and promoting organic
gardening, farming and food. We are
driven by an enduring passion and belief,
founded on over 50 years of research
and practice, that organic methods
provide a healthy, sustainable life for us all.

Garden Organic, Ryton Gardens,
Coventry, Warwickshire CV8 3LG
Tel: 024 7630 3517
Fax: 024 7663 9229
Email: enquiry@gardenorganic.org.uk

Registered charity no 298104. Garden Organic is the working name of the Henry Doubleday Research Association.

Organic Gardening Guidelines ~ Teacher Guide

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