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xxx 
Change Process 
2002
Why to change ?
Why to change ? 
• High finished goods inventory – avg. 5 weeks 
• High WIP – avg. 3 weeks 
• High raw material inventory – avg. 4 weeks 
RESULTS: 
(a) excessive finance charges 
(b) contribution towards slow selling lines 
and raw material write-offs 
(c) lack of flexibility - not serving customers’ 
needs 
(d) poor profit performance.
TASK TEAM 
DURATION 
• 3 month planning 
• 3 month implementation 
TEAM MEMBERSHIP 
• Supervisor 
• Production Control 
• M&S Liaison / Fabric Purchase 
• Production / Work Study 
• Garment Engineer 
+ Consultant
OPPORTUNITY 
ASSESSMENT
STEP ANALYSIS 
Cutting & Dunfermline High WIP System 
No. of Steps 160 
No. of Value Adds 24 
No. of Non-Value Adds 136 
Process Time 19 Mins 
Manufacturing Lead Time 12 Days 
Distance 1087m 
WIP (Dozens) 5366 
£ 322K 
Space (excluding warehouse) 60886 sq.ft. 
Direct Staff 270
“ BLUE SKY ” 
Cutting & Dunfermline High WIP System Ideal 
No. of Steps 160 25 
No. of Value Adds 24 24 
No. of Non-Value Adds 136 1 
Process Time 19 Mins 19 Mins 
Manufacturing Lead Time 12 Days ¼ Day 
Distance 1087m 50m 
WIP (Dozens) 5366 112 
£ 322K 6.7K 
Space (excluding warehouse) 60886 sq.ft. 9000 sq.ft. 
Direct Staff 270 118
PROPOSED PLAN 
Cutting & Dunfermline High WIP System Ideal Practical 
No. of Steps 160 25 49 
No. of Value Adds 24 24 24 
No. of Non-Value Adds 136 1 25 
Process Time 19 Mins 19 Mins 19 Mins 
Manufacturing Lead Time 12 Days ¼ Day 2 Days 
Distance 1087m 50m 370m 
WIP (Dozens) 5366 112 894 
£ 322K 6.7K 53K 
Space (excluding warehouse) 60886 sq.ft. 9000 sq.ft. 32606 sq.ft 
Direct Staff 270 118 179
GLENROTHES 
Production Flow 
High WIP System 525 Yards Improved 284 Yards
CONVENTIONAL LINE 
Work flow ______ 
Op. movement ______ 
No. of ops. 18 
18 
18 
14 
17 13 
17 12 
6 11 
16 9 
14 9 
15 8 
7 
10 6 
4 
5 
5 
5 
4 
3 
2 
1
FLOW LINE 
Work flow _____ 
Op. movement _____ 
No. of ops. 12 
12 
11 
1 11 
1 11 
1 10 
2 10 
2 9 
2 9 
2 9 
3 8 
3 8 
3 8 
4 7 
4 7 
4 6 
5 6 
5 6
IMPROVED LINE SYSTEM 
• Shorter lead time 
• Low WIP 
• Smooth work flow 
• Minimal operator movement 
• Focused supervision 
• Rework - minimal 
• Feedback from pressing 
• Damaged panels replaced 
• Less accessory wastage 
• Safe
How could these lines start at 100% 
(Blue Sky) 
What were the issues? 
• No structured pre-production process 
• Raw materials not available 
• Quality problems 
• Poor communication 
• Lack of information
PRE-PRODUCTION PROCESS 
• Introduction of pre-engineering on factory floor 
• Pre-production test analysis (PPTA) 
• Machines pre-set prior to line start 
Master Schedule 
• One plan for the business 
Action Schedule 
• Critical dates for each stage of pre-production 
• Identifying lead times for fabric and trims 
Contract Planning/Control 
• Close liaison with customer 
• Minimum commitment 
• “Stock Quality”
ROLE DEVELOPMENT 
Enlarged Roles 
Designers > Technical Designers 
Work Study ) > Garment Engineers 
Production Managers ) 
Fabric Buyer ) 
Accessory Buyer ) > Planner / Buyer 
Planner ) 
• Multi Skilled 
• More Responsibility 
• Simplified Structure 
• Increased Accountability 
• Clear Lines of Communication
PEOPLE 
• Investors in People focuses our training 
initiatives around an up-to-date business 
plan 
• Team work 
• NVQ’s 
• Encouragement of ideas (involvement)
CHANGES IN QUALITY 
SYSTEM 
• Better pre-production anticipates most problems 
• RTM risk analysis - feedback from RTM analysis 
• ISO 9001 & Lloyds formalise quality systems 
• End of line and management audits provide 
information on areas for improvement
CONCLUSION 
• Lower stock levels 5 weeks > 2 weeks 
• Lower WIP 3 weeks > 2 days 
• Much more flexible 
• Line efficiency 65% > 80% 
• Profitable Nil borrowings 
• Customer-focused manufacturing system 
supported by innovative design
IMPROVEMENT IS NOW A 
WAY OF WORKING 
• Total Productive Maintenance - Operator Involvement with 
(TPM) machine care 
• Statistical Process Control - Improve the process to make 
(SPC) the product better 
• JIT Tours - Look for best practice 
• Further Task Teams - Powerful method of 
implementing change 
• Appraisals by Customer - Focus on what your 
customer wants
RE-THINKING THE DESIGN 
PROCESS 
OBJECTIVE 
High New Product Strike Rate 
BY 
Analytical approach to product 
development
IDENTIFY 
CUSTOMER GROUPS
FOCUSED BUYING 
Initial Buys 
Fashion Classics - Updated core products, 
e.g. basic t-shirt 
Fashion Basics - The ‘looks’ specific to each 
season identified from ‘Design 
Matrix’, e.g. Slip Dress, Polo 
Dress 
In Season Purchase 
Fashion Newness - To be bought within season, 
e.g. Jelly Shoes, Fashion 
Sportswear
DESIGN MATRIX 
Major Stores Fashion 
Sportswear 
50’s 
Teenager 
30’s, 40’s 
Romantic 
Neo Mod 
The Gap’ 
‘The Limited 
Express’ 
‘Banana 
Republic’ 
‘Donna Karan’ 
‘Ralph Lauren’ 
‘Calvin Klein’ 
Soho 
Boutiques 
‘Zara’ 
Total 6 4 8 3 
% Total 75% 50% 100% 27% 
Key Tennis - Skirts Shift Dresses Slip Dresses Short A-Line 
Skirts 
Garments Shorts Twin Sets Tea Dresses Pinafores 
Dresses Capri Pants Long Bias Skts Jelly Shoes 
Polo - Shirts Dirndl - Skirts Flippy Shorts ‘Pac-a-Mac’ 
Dresses Dresses 
Bodies Harringtons 
Parkas
TECHNICAL DESIGNER 
CURRENT FUNCTION 
Design 
Fabric Utilisation 
Garment SM’s 
Costing 
Customer 
Leads to the development of
THE COMPLETE 
PRODUCT MANAGER 
• Design, Cost and Sell Product 
• Liaise with Customer Commercial Management 
Customer Fabric Technology 
Customer Garment Engineers
IT SYSTEMS 
DEVELOPMENT 
• M&S Payment System 
- Trialist 
• Contracts Management System 
- 1 of 5 on Management Board 
- Participating in Supplier Forums 
- Going live in T74 - 26.06.96. 
• E-Mail 
- Link to Factories, London office and 
M&S
Major Stores Fashion 
Sportswear 
50's Teenager 30's, 40's 
Romantic 
Neo Mod 
'The Gap' 
‘The Limited 
Express’ 
'Banana 
Republic' 
'Donna Karen' 
'Ralph Lauren' 
'Calvin Klein' 
Soho Boutiques 
'Zara' 
Total 6 4 8 3 
% Total 75% 50% 100% 27% 
Key Garments Tennis - Skirts Shift Dresses Slip Dresses Short A-Line 
Shorts Twin Sets Tea Dresses Skirts 
Dresses Capri Pants Long Bias Skirts Pinafores 
Polo - Shirts Dirndl - Skirts Flippy Shorts Jelly Shoes 
Dresses Dresses 'Pac-a-Mac' 
Bodies Harringtons 
Parkas

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  • 3. Why to change ? • High finished goods inventory – avg. 5 weeks • High WIP – avg. 3 weeks • High raw material inventory – avg. 4 weeks RESULTS: (a) excessive finance charges (b) contribution towards slow selling lines and raw material write-offs (c) lack of flexibility - not serving customers’ needs (d) poor profit performance.
  • 4. TASK TEAM DURATION • 3 month planning • 3 month implementation TEAM MEMBERSHIP • Supervisor • Production Control • M&S Liaison / Fabric Purchase • Production / Work Study • Garment Engineer + Consultant
  • 6. STEP ANALYSIS Cutting & Dunfermline High WIP System No. of Steps 160 No. of Value Adds 24 No. of Non-Value Adds 136 Process Time 19 Mins Manufacturing Lead Time 12 Days Distance 1087m WIP (Dozens) 5366 £ 322K Space (excluding warehouse) 60886 sq.ft. Direct Staff 270
  • 7. “ BLUE SKY ” Cutting & Dunfermline High WIP System Ideal No. of Steps 160 25 No. of Value Adds 24 24 No. of Non-Value Adds 136 1 Process Time 19 Mins 19 Mins Manufacturing Lead Time 12 Days ¼ Day Distance 1087m 50m WIP (Dozens) 5366 112 £ 322K 6.7K Space (excluding warehouse) 60886 sq.ft. 9000 sq.ft. Direct Staff 270 118
  • 8. PROPOSED PLAN Cutting & Dunfermline High WIP System Ideal Practical No. of Steps 160 25 49 No. of Value Adds 24 24 24 No. of Non-Value Adds 136 1 25 Process Time 19 Mins 19 Mins 19 Mins Manufacturing Lead Time 12 Days ¼ Day 2 Days Distance 1087m 50m 370m WIP (Dozens) 5366 112 894 £ 322K 6.7K 53K Space (excluding warehouse) 60886 sq.ft. 9000 sq.ft. 32606 sq.ft Direct Staff 270 118 179
  • 9. GLENROTHES Production Flow High WIP System 525 Yards Improved 284 Yards
  • 10. CONVENTIONAL LINE Work flow ______ Op. movement ______ No. of ops. 18 18 18 14 17 13 17 12 6 11 16 9 14 9 15 8 7 10 6 4 5 5 5 4 3 2 1
  • 11. FLOW LINE Work flow _____ Op. movement _____ No. of ops. 12 12 11 1 11 1 11 1 10 2 10 2 9 2 9 2 9 3 8 3 8 3 8 4 7 4 7 4 6 5 6 5 6
  • 12. IMPROVED LINE SYSTEM • Shorter lead time • Low WIP • Smooth work flow • Minimal operator movement • Focused supervision • Rework - minimal • Feedback from pressing • Damaged panels replaced • Less accessory wastage • Safe
  • 13. How could these lines start at 100% (Blue Sky) What were the issues? • No structured pre-production process • Raw materials not available • Quality problems • Poor communication • Lack of information
  • 14. PRE-PRODUCTION PROCESS • Introduction of pre-engineering on factory floor • Pre-production test analysis (PPTA) • Machines pre-set prior to line start Master Schedule • One plan for the business Action Schedule • Critical dates for each stage of pre-production • Identifying lead times for fabric and trims Contract Planning/Control • Close liaison with customer • Minimum commitment • “Stock Quality”
  • 15. ROLE DEVELOPMENT Enlarged Roles Designers > Technical Designers Work Study ) > Garment Engineers Production Managers ) Fabric Buyer ) Accessory Buyer ) > Planner / Buyer Planner ) • Multi Skilled • More Responsibility • Simplified Structure • Increased Accountability • Clear Lines of Communication
  • 16. PEOPLE • Investors in People focuses our training initiatives around an up-to-date business plan • Team work • NVQ’s • Encouragement of ideas (involvement)
  • 17. CHANGES IN QUALITY SYSTEM • Better pre-production anticipates most problems • RTM risk analysis - feedback from RTM analysis • ISO 9001 & Lloyds formalise quality systems • End of line and management audits provide information on areas for improvement
  • 18. CONCLUSION • Lower stock levels 5 weeks > 2 weeks • Lower WIP 3 weeks > 2 days • Much more flexible • Line efficiency 65% > 80% • Profitable Nil borrowings • Customer-focused manufacturing system supported by innovative design
  • 19. IMPROVEMENT IS NOW A WAY OF WORKING • Total Productive Maintenance - Operator Involvement with (TPM) machine care • Statistical Process Control - Improve the process to make (SPC) the product better • JIT Tours - Look for best practice • Further Task Teams - Powerful method of implementing change • Appraisals by Customer - Focus on what your customer wants
  • 20. RE-THINKING THE DESIGN PROCESS OBJECTIVE High New Product Strike Rate BY Analytical approach to product development
  • 22. FOCUSED BUYING Initial Buys Fashion Classics - Updated core products, e.g. basic t-shirt Fashion Basics - The ‘looks’ specific to each season identified from ‘Design Matrix’, e.g. Slip Dress, Polo Dress In Season Purchase Fashion Newness - To be bought within season, e.g. Jelly Shoes, Fashion Sportswear
  • 23. DESIGN MATRIX Major Stores Fashion Sportswear 50’s Teenager 30’s, 40’s Romantic Neo Mod The Gap’ ‘The Limited Express’ ‘Banana Republic’ ‘Donna Karan’ ‘Ralph Lauren’ ‘Calvin Klein’ Soho Boutiques ‘Zara’ Total 6 4 8 3 % Total 75% 50% 100% 27% Key Tennis - Skirts Shift Dresses Slip Dresses Short A-Line Skirts Garments Shorts Twin Sets Tea Dresses Pinafores Dresses Capri Pants Long Bias Skts Jelly Shoes Polo - Shirts Dirndl - Skirts Flippy Shorts ‘Pac-a-Mac’ Dresses Dresses Bodies Harringtons Parkas
  • 24. TECHNICAL DESIGNER CURRENT FUNCTION Design Fabric Utilisation Garment SM’s Costing Customer Leads to the development of
  • 25. THE COMPLETE PRODUCT MANAGER • Design, Cost and Sell Product • Liaise with Customer Commercial Management Customer Fabric Technology Customer Garment Engineers
  • 26. IT SYSTEMS DEVELOPMENT • M&S Payment System - Trialist • Contracts Management System - 1 of 5 on Management Board - Participating in Supplier Forums - Going live in T74 - 26.06.96. • E-Mail - Link to Factories, London office and M&S
  • 27. Major Stores Fashion Sportswear 50's Teenager 30's, 40's Romantic Neo Mod 'The Gap' ‘The Limited Express’ 'Banana Republic' 'Donna Karen' 'Ralph Lauren' 'Calvin Klein' Soho Boutiques 'Zara' Total 6 4 8 3 % Total 75% 50% 100% 27% Key Garments Tennis - Skirts Shift Dresses Slip Dresses Short A-Line Shorts Twin Sets Tea Dresses Skirts Dresses Capri Pants Long Bias Skirts Pinafores Polo - Shirts Dirndl - Skirts Flippy Shorts Jelly Shoes Dresses Dresses 'Pac-a-Mac' Bodies Harringtons Parkas