Product Identification & Tracibility in Apparel Industery
1. - 1 -
STUDY
PRODUCT IDENTIVICATION &
TRACIBILITY IN APPAREL
Mansoor Faiz Cheema
2. - 2 -
INTRODUCTION
1.1 Introduction
In the latest scenario, the industrial world is moving towards automation. The human
involvement in any process is decreasing day by day. This is due to the fact that machines
and automated systems can complete the same process in much less time with a higher
degree of accuracy and precision. Time is the most important factor in any production
system. All the systems being introduced are designed to reduce the time for
manufacturing a product. The Industrial Engineering Departments are solely working to
reduce the throughput time or the lead time. The terms like SAM are implemented just to
optimize the processes in terms of time.
Similar is the case with the Apparel Industry all over the world. Departments like PPC
(Product Planning and Control) and IE (Industrial Engineering) are being set up in
Apparel Industries to increase the efficiency and productivity. The local apparel industry
is also following the trend and innovative steps are being taken to keep up with the pace
of the fast growing industrial world. The automated machines and systems are finding
their way in the local Apparel Industry. Automatic spreading machines, marker makers,
cutting machines, sewing machines and finishing machines are being used to increase the
productivity and quality, and at the same time, to reduce the throughput time.
Nowadays, there is a continuous change in customer requirements and the product life
cycles are very short. For this reason modern garment production companies tend to
create new models faster to survive. On the other hand managers of garment plants that
create their own models need to reach their production information any time. So a user-
friendly application to form a common database that provides an efficient production
phase in apparel industry is the need of the hour for every apparel manufacturer.
The term quality is of a great importance in the Textile and specially the Apparel
Industry, and "Total Customer Satisfaction" is the agent that has made the term "quality"
3. - 3 -
so much important. Most of the industry in the world is moving towards the Six Sigma
and Zero Defects concept but the Pakistani Industry still lags in this field. After the
implementation of WTO, fulfilling the requirements of the customers is not everything,
but in fact to exceed the requirements is the real thing. For this very purpose, the local
apparel industry has to come up with something innovative in terms of technology,
because innovation has been the most important tool for increasing the level of
production as well as quality in any industry. All the strong industrialists around the
world put a great emphasis on innovative techniques and strategies.
To satisfy the customers of the Pakistan-made apparels, it is important to make sure that
each and every operation involved in the manufacturing of any garment is up to the
quality standards defined by the customers. This is the only way the local apparel
manufacturers can make their current customers stick to them and attract new and healthy
customers to the garments with a tag having "Made in Pakistan" written on it.
1.2 Identification
The function of Identification is to map a known quantity to an unknown entity so as to
make it known. The known quantity is called the identifier (or ID) and the unknown
entity is what needs identification. A basic requirement for identification is that the ID be
unique. IDs may be scoped, that is, they are unique only within a particular scope. IDs
may also be built out of a collection of quantities such that they are unique on the
collective.
Identification is the capability to find, retrieve, report, change, or delete specific data
without ambiguity. This applies especially with information stored in databases. In
database normalization it is the central, defining function to the discipline.
The Identification System in apparels is used to identify different quantities at different
stages so as to make them traceable at any later stage and keep a track of the work done
and the work to be done. It is also a part of the shift towards innovation and automation.
The logic reduces the human involvement and provides every entity of the product as
4. - 4 -
well as the process, with a separate identification so as to minimize any chances of
ambiguity. The identification and traceability logic can help the local apparel industry as
a useful tool for increasing the quality and hence customer satisfaction level. It will help
in reducing the faults and the claims made by the customers due to these faults. It will
also help to keep a track of the worker's skill and performance. This logic is useful not
only in the Manufacturing but is used in the apparel shops and outlets as well.
This logic helps the organization to provide the customer with more safety and security
regarding the quality of the product. The logic includes the identification of each and
every step involved in the value addition process in an apparel organization. It also helps
to track any unexpected defect, its origin and the person responsible for it.
To plan and implement the identification and tracking system, the organization must have
a strong IT Department for creating databases and linking them to each other when
required. The information has to be entered into these databases on daily basis. This can
be done in two ways:
Real Time Processing
Batch Processing
In real time processing updating of data is done at the time the event happens. This idea is
most effective but is quite difficult and costly.
‘Batch Processing’ on the other hand is a method of processing data ‘in a batch’ at a
convenient time after the event.
An example known to all clothing manufacturers is the common form of processing of
shop floor production information. Here bundles of work are identified using tickets.
Self-adhesive operation stubs represent each operation the bundle moves through. The
operator responsible for a particular operation removes the appropriate stub once he has
5. - 5 -
completed the bundle and this is stuck on to his daily work sheet. Also recorded on this
sheet is any ‘off standard’ time he may experience during the day.
At the end of the day the daily work sheet will have recorded on it all work carried out by
an operator during that day, together with details of any down time. The work sheets for
all the operators are collected up and given to the IT Department for subsequent
processing. This is normally carried out the following morning.
With most batch production control systems the information fed in from the work sheets
will update information regarding the labour cost, work in progress movements and gross
wages. Information about these is, therefore, by necessity, only accurate up to the close of
business the day before – i.e., yesterday.
The use of ‘real time’ in production control is accurate up to the last bundle processed by
any operator. As with batch production control, tickets or some other means of work
identification accompanies each bundle of work through the production process. Instead
of stubs being removed from the ticket and stuck on to a work sheet, information is read
into the computer immediately the bundle is completed at each workstation. A terminal
is, therefore, required at each workstation. These terminals may be some type of
appropriate input device, which are normally small numeric keypads, often resembling
pocket calculators with or without bar code readers attached as appropriate.
Hence the concept of real time requires more employees, more technology and more
working space which adds to the cost of the production and is not used in the local
apparel industry.
1.3 The Local Apparel Industry
The local apparel industry usually consists of manufacturers that buy fabric, cut it, sew it
and ship it to the customer. There are some composite units that manufacture yarn and
fabric and then manufacture the garments but they constitute a very small part, about ten
percent of the local apparel industry.
6. - 6 -
CMT
CMT stands for Cut Make Trim and it is the term used for the manufacturers who do not
have spinning and weaving units. The customer provides them fabric or specifications of
the fabric to be used for the garments. The manufacturer has to arrange the fabric and get
it dyed in case the customer is not providing him the fabric. The manufacturer also
arranges the trims from the local market as specified by the customer.
They perform the following processes:
Get the order
Buy fabric from local market
Get the Fabric dyed
Buy Trims
Fabric Inspection
Fabric Spreading
Cutting
Bundling
Stitching
Inspection
Packing
Shipping
7. - 7 -
Most of the local CMT Units have the following steps in manufacturing of the
garments:
Fabric
Inspection
Spreading
&
Cutting
Bundling
Stitching
Finishing
Inspection
Packing
9. - 9 -
IDENTIFICATION AND TRACEABILITY IN
APPAREL INDUSTRY
2.1) Areas of Significance
The identification system is useful in almost all the departments of the apparel industry
but its main uses cover the following areas:
IT Department
Human Resource Management
Merchandising
Industrial Engineering
Production
Inspection
Shipment
2.2) Identification in IT Department
A good and well established IT department is the base for a strong identification and
tracking system. IT department designs the databases and enters the relevant information
into it which is the first requirement of this system. IT department also help generate
barcodes or RFID Tags to be used in the organization for the purpose of auto-
identification.
2.3) Identification in Human Resource Department
In any established organization, human resource department is responsible for hiring,
training, grooming, rotating and managing the employees. Employees are the main part
of every organization. The identification system helps the management and coordination
of the employees of the organization. It not only helps in identifying and tracking the
10. - 10 -
employees of any department at any time but also helps to calculate the pays and
incentives to be paid to a worker at any time.
2.4) Identification in Merchandising Department
The merchandiser needs to be very up to date with the codes and symbols used in apparel
business. He must know the meaning of the terms used by any customer. The purchase
order number, the style number and shipping id are some examples of the terms that a
merchandiser needs to be familiar with.
2.5) Identification in Industrial Engineering Department
The industrial engineering department plays with the operations under way in the
organization. Industrial engineering department is directly linked to the production
department and is responsible for improving the workflow and reduce the throughput
time. Operation identification and design is also the responsibility of the IE Department.
All the identification codes used in an apparel organization are usually generated by IE
Department.
2.6) Identification in Production Department
The production department is responsible for the identification of the operations and their
implementation as planned by the IE department. The identification and tracking of
garments is done by a code stitched into the garment. This code is generated to track any
problem occurring at any stage of production and eliminate its root cause. This code is
embedded in the garment during stitching and is the responsibility of the production
manager and inspectors.
11. - 11 -
2.7) Identification in Inspection Department
The inspectors are the ones who check the garments for faults and defects and then
declare them as A-class or defected. Hence they are the ones help responsible for any
complaint from the customer.
2.8) Identification in Shipping
The cartons sent to the customer through air or sea contain lots of barcodes and
identification codes which include the information about the buyer, the manufacturer and
the shipper.
12. - 12 -
Tools used for Identification and Traceability
3.1) Types of Identification Tools
Before getting into the details of the identification and tracking in apparels, it is important
to know about the technology used for the identification of the apparel products in an
apparel manufacturing unit and apparel shops and stores.
The identification tools are used for Auto-Identification. Automatic Identification and
Data Capture (AIDC) refers to the methods of automatically identifying objects,
collecting data about them, and entering that data directly into computer systems (i.e.
without human involvement). Technologies typically considered as part of AIDC include:
3.1.1) Barcodes
3.1.2) Radio Frequency Identification RFID
RFID Tag RFID Scanner Entrance
3.1.3) Biometrics
13. - 13 -
3.1.4) Magnetic stripes
3.1.5) Optical Character Recognition (OCR)
3.1.6) Smart cards
14. - 14 -
3.1.7) Voice recognition
AIDC is also commonly referred to as “Automatic Identification,” “Auto-ID,” and
"Automatic Data Capture."
The most commonly used of all the above mentioned technologies is the barcode.
Barcode is easy to produce and costs less. RFID is also being used and is considered
more effective and versatile than barcode due to the fact that it involves less human
involvement but most of the organizations do not consider it cost effective.
In apparel industry, organizations use barcodes for identification. Some well establshed
manufacturers and retailers also use RFID in their products for easy and more effective
15. - 15 -
and reliable identification. RFID are used mostly in shops and marts to save the time and
to avoid any theft.
3.2) Barcode Identification
A barcode is a machine-readable representation of information (usually dark ink on a
light background to create high and low reflectance which is converted to 1s and 0s).
Originally, barcodes stored data in the widths and spacings of printed parallel lines, but
today they also come in patterns of dots, concentric circles, and text codes hidden within
images. Barcodes can be read by optical scanners called barcode readers or scanned from
an image by special software. Barcodes are widely used to implement Auto ID Data
Capture (AIDC) systems that improve the speed and accuracy of computer data entry. An
advantage over other methods of AIDC is that it is less expensive to implement.
Since their invention in the 20th century, barcodes — especially the UPC code — have
slowly become an essential part of modern civilization. Their use is widespread, and the
technology behind barcodes is constantly improving. Some modern applications of
barcodes include:
Practically every item purchased from a grocery store, department store, and mass
merchandiser has a barcode on it. This greatly helps in keeping track of the large
number of items in a store and also reduces instances of shoplifting (since
shoplifters could no longer easily switch price tags from a lower-cost item to a
higher-priced one). Since the adoption of barcodes, both consumers and retailers
have benefited from the savings generated.
Document Management tools often allow for barcoded sheets to facilitate the
separation and indexing of documents that have been imaged in batch scanning
applications.
The tracking of item movement, including rental cars, airline luggage, nuclear
waste, mail and parcels.
16. - 16 -
Recently, researchers have placed tiny barcodes on individual bees to track the
insects' mating habits.
In the late 1990s in Tokyo, there was a fad for temporary barcode shaped tattoos
among high school girls.
Many tickets now have barcodes that need validating before allowing the holder
to enter sports arenas, cinemas, theatres, fairgrounds, transportation etc.
Some Examples of Barcodes
Information stored in a barcode
17. - 17 -
3.2.1) Scanners/ Barcode Readers
The earliest, and still the cheapest, barcode scanners are built from a fixed light and a
single photosensor that is manually "scrubbed" across the barcode.
A later design, the "laser scanner," uses a polygonal mirror or galvanometer-mounted
mirror to scan a laser across the barcode — initially only in a straight line, but eventually
in complicated patterns so the reader could read barcodes at any angle.
In the 1990s some barcode reader manufacturers began working with digital cameras to
capture barcodes, both linear and 2D. That technology has matured and now often
surpasses laser scanners in performance and reliability.
A barcode reader
More recently, off-the-shelf digital cameras now have enough resolution to capture both
1D and 2D barcodes. Increasingly companies are looking to incorporate barcode scanning
software into cameraphones. However, the camera phone optics are not well suited for
18. - 18 -
standard codes that were designed for industrial dedicated scanners. As a result, new
codes are being designed for mobile use such as color code and mCode.
3.2.2) Benefits of using barcodes
In point-of-sale management, the use of barcodes can provide very detailed up-to-date
information on key aspects of the business, enabling decisions to be made much more
quickly and with more confidence. For example:
Fast-selling items can be identified quickly and automatically reordered to meet
consumer demand,
Slow-selling items can be identified, preventing a build-up of unwanted stock,
The effects of repositioning a given product within a store can be monitored,
allowing fast-moving more profitable items to occupy the best space,
Historical data can be used to predict seasonal fluctuations very accurately.
Items may be repriced on the shelf to reflect both sale prices and price increases.
Besides sales and inventory tracking, barcodes are very useful in
shipping/receiving/tracking.
When a manufacturer packs a box with any given item, a Unique Indentifying
Number (UID) can be assigned to the box.
A relational database can be created to relate the UID to relevant information
about the box; such as order number, items packed, quantity packed, final
destination, etc…
The information can be transmitted through a communication system such as
Electronic Data Interchange (EDI) so the retailer has the information about a
shipment before it arrives.
Tracking results when shipments are sent to a Distribution Center (DC) before
being forwarded to the final destination.
19. - 19 -
When the shipment gets to the final destination, the UID gets scanned, and the
store knows where the order came from, what's inside the box, and how much to
pay the manufacturer.
The reason bar codes are business friendly is that bar code scanners are relatively low
cost and extremely accurate – only about 1/100,000 entries will be wrong.
3.3) Radio-frequency identification
Radio-frequency identification (RFID) is an automatic identification method, relying on
storing and remotely retrieving data using devices called RFID tags or transponders.
An RFID tag is an object that can be applied to or incorporated into a product, animal, or
person for the purpose of identification using radiowaves. Some tags can be read from
several meters away and beyond the line of sight of the reader.
Most RFID tags contain at least two parts. One is an integrated circuit for storing and
processing information, modulating and demodulating a (RF) signal and can also be used
for other specialized functions. The second is an antenna for receiving and transmitting
the signal. A technology called chipless RFID allows for discrete identification of tags
without an integrated circuit, thereby allowing tags to be printed directly onto assets at
lower cost than traditional tags.
Today, a significant thrust in RFID use is in enterprise supply chain management,
improving the efficiency of inventory tracking and management. However, a threat is
looming that the current growth and adoption in enterprise supply chain market will not
be sustainable. A fair cost-sharing mechanism, rational motives and justified returns from
RFID technology investments are the key ingredients to achieve long-term and
sustainable RFID technology adoption.
20. - 20 -
An RFID tag used for electronic toll collection
3.3.1) RFID Tags
RFID tags come in three general varieties: passive, active, or semi-passive (also known as
battery-assisted). Passive tags require no internal power source, thus being pure passive
devices (they are only active when a reader is nearby to power them), whereas semi-
passive and active tags require a power source, usually a small battery.
RFID tags used in libraries: square book tag, round CD/DVD tag and rectangular VHS tag.
21. - 21 -
To communicate, tags respond to queries generating signals that must not create
interference with the reader's, as arriving signals can be very weak and must be told apart.
Besides backscattering, load modulation techniques can be used to manipulate the
reader's field. Typically, backscatter is used in the far field, whereas load modulation
applies in the nearfield, within a few wavelengths from the reader.
RFID Reader/ Scanner
22. - 22 -
3.3.2) Use of RFID in sewn products industry
RFID labels are smart labels that can provide information for a number of applications in
the apparel supply chain. Their unique information can be captured automatically once
the labels are applied at product inception, and the information is highly accurate and
secure.
Some RFID can be modified at stages of the supply chain using the interaction between
the microchip and reader software. RFID is traceable or can be tracked to provide a
production and inventory control system, used for “smart shelves” real time inventory,
retail security system, and even as an authentication to identify counterfeiting of brands.
The apparel industry is in a unique situation where item level RFID tagging can provide
significant benefits relatively quickly without major disruptions to current operations.
Apparel items are typically RFID friendly allowing a broad range of applications from
automated receiving, rapid inventory, controlling on shelf out-of-stock situations and
shoplifting. This paper addresses the question of whether retailers can inventory store
apparel merchandise and achieve high accuracy of inventory data.
23. - 23 -
3.3.3) Replacing barcodes
RFID tags are often envisioned as a replacement for barcodes, having a number of
important advantages over the older barcode technology. They may not ever completely
replace barcodes, due in part to their higher cost and in other part to the advantage of
more than one independent data source on the same object. The new EPC, along with
several other schemes, is widely available at reasonable cost.
The storage of data associated with tracking items will require many terabytes on all
levels. Filtering and categorizing RFID data is needed in order to create useful
information. It is likely that goods will be tracked preferably by the pallet using RFID
tags, and at package level with Universal Product Code (UPC) or EAN from unique
barcodes.
The unique identity in any case is a mandatory requirement for RFID tags, despite special
choice of the numbering scheme. RFID tag data capacity is big enough that any tag will
have a unique code, while current bar codes are limited to a single type code for all
instances of a particular product. The uniqueness of RFID tags means that a product may
be individually tracked as it moves from location to location, finally ending up in the
consumer's hands. This may help companies to combat theft and other forms of product
loss. Moreover, the tracing back of products is an important feature that gets well
supported with RFID tags containing not just a unique identity of the tag but also the
serial number of the object. This may help companies to cope with quality deficiencies
and resulting recall campaigns, but also contributes to concern over post-sale tracking
and profiling of consumers.
It has also been proposed to use RFID for POS store checkout to replace the cashier with
an automatic system which needs no barcode scanning. However, this is not likely to be
possible without a significant reduction in the cost of current tags and changes in the
operational process around POS. There is some research taking place, however, this is
some years from reaching fruition.
24. - 24 -
An FDA nominated task force came to the conclusion after studying the various
technologies currently commercially available, which could meet the pedigree
requirements. Amongst all technologies studied including bar coding, RFID seemed to be
the most promising and the committee felt that the pedigree requirement could be met by
easily leveraging something that is readily available.
25. - 25 -
Employee Identification
4.1) Human Resource Management
Human resource management (HRM) is the strategic and coherent approach to the
management of an organization's most valued assets - the people working there who
individually and collectively contribute to the achievement of the objectives of the
business. Human resources management comprises several processes.
The follwing processes can be performed in an HR department, but some tasks can also
be outsourced or performed by line-managers or other departments.
Workforce planning
Recruitment
Induction and Orientation
Skills management
Training and development
Personnel administration
Compensation in wage or salary
Time management
Travel management (sometimes assigned to accounting rather than HRM)
Payroll (sometimes assigned to accounting rather than HRM)
Employee benefits administration
Personnel cost planning
Performance appraisal
The workers are hired by the HR Department after tests and interviews. After finalizing
the selection, the HR department collects information about the employees. This
information is used to create profiles of all the hired employees in a database that is used
for employee identification and tracking.
26. - 26 -
Some information is already acquired when the employees fill the application forms. That
information is verified by the HR Department. Any other information about the employee
can be acquired after his interview and selection. Usually the organizations ask for the
following information.
First and Last Name
Father’s Name
Date of Birth
NIC Number
Education
Previous job experience
Home Address
Contact Number
References
Photograph
On selection of the applicant, all this information is verified. After verification, the
employee is asked to join and an Identification Card is made for the employee. The
employee is assigned an employee number according to his department and designation.
A profile containing all the information about that employee is added to the database.
27. - 27 -
4.2) The ID Card
The Card usually has the following format:
The employee card usually has the following information:
Organization Name
Employee Identification Number
Name of the Employee
Designation of the employee in the organization
Department of the employee
Some organizations use shirts with different colours for employees of different
departments for easy identification. The colours of the employee cards are also kept
different according to their departments.
28. - 28 -
Operation Identification
5.1) Operation Identification
The identification of operations can be very useful in reducing defects and errors in the
workflow. It can also help to calculate the efficiency and performance of the workers and
the machines. The operation identification is done usually by the Industrial Engineering
Department. The IE department designs the workflow of the manufacturing. The IE
department performs the following operation in an apparel unit:
Planning for maximum output
Designing line for proper workflow
Line Balancing
Method study
Work Measurement
Breaking Operations into smaller ones
Reduce throughput time and thus lead time
Minimizes the chances of bottlenecks
The IE department has a vital role in implementation and management of identification
system in the production department. IE designs the line which is the first and foremost
requirement for the implementation of a proper garment identification system. Different
machines are put in a particular layout in the unit so as to minimize handling. A balanced
line can make the identification system much easier to be installed. The more balanced
the line, the more effective will be the garments identification system. In fact, an
identification and tracking system is not effective until the production line is properly
designed and balanced.
29. - 29 -
The managerial excess most influenced by the skill of the managers and supervisors is
probably that due to poor line balance. It can be reduced considerably by anticipation and
planning. Effective planning depends upon:
A knowledge of the garment(s) manufactured;
The way in which production can be sectionalized;
The capacity of the workplaces, in terms both of machinery and of the skill of the
operatives who work there.
The steps to a proper line balancing are:
Calculation of the labour requirements;
Operation breakdown;
Time study;
SAM calculations for each operation;
Theoretical operation balance;
Initial balance;
Balance control.
Consider the balancing of a line where a ladies knitted top is to be manufactured. The
first step in the line balancing is to break the whole process into small elements.
30. - 30 -
5.2) Breaking the operations into small elements:
No. Machine Operation Description SAM
1 Whipper Elast. Elasticate, attach lace and elastic to
sleeves
0.70
2 O/L Join two back seams 1.00
3 O/L Friller Att. Front yoke 0.60
4 O/L Friller Att. Back yoke 0.60
5 O/L Join one shoulder 0.35
6 L/S Att. Lace to front yoke 1.00
7 L/S Bind Att. Binding and lace to neck & tab 0.70
8 O/L Join second shoulder 0.35
9 O/L Join sleeve seams 0.40
10 O/L Friller Attach sleeve on round 1.40
11 Whipper Whip hem 0.90
12 L/S (zz) Top stitch neck and sleeves 1.00
13 2N L/S Yokes and top stitch each side to hold 1.00
Total 10.00
Exam. 0.20 Fold. 0.10 Press. 0.10
Total Standard time 10.40
The manufacturing of this top is broken into 13 small elements each of which is going to
be performed by an operator specialized in that particular element or operation. The
standard allowed minutes are calculated through time study and the machines have been
allocated according to the requirement of each operation. A proper flow has been
developed but it still can be improved by adjusting the machines in a way as to minimize
delays or bottlenecks. This is done by balancing the line. When a theoretical operation
balance is completed, then the management must check that the garment can be produced
with the operations as selected.
31. - 31 -
5.3) Alternative arrangements
Method Description Result
Operations in parallel Long operations
performed by two or more
people
Improved flexibility
Operations in series Long operations split Greater specialization
Method/Construction
changes
The garment, the way in
which it is made up or the
sequence of operations is
changed. Tasks
transferred from one work
station to another.
May be a fall in efficiency
Workplace improvement work study and capital
investment concentrated
at bottlenecks
Reduced manufacturing
times
32. - 32 -
To balance the previous flow line to a more effective level, some changes can be made:
Work
Station
Operation No. Operation Description SAM
1 1 Elasticate, attach lace and elastic to
sleeves
0.70
2 2 Join two back seams 1.0
3 3 & 4 Att. Front yoke, Att. Back yoke 1.2
4 6 Att. Lace to front yoke 1.0
5 13 Yokes and top stitch each side to
hold
1.0
6 5,8 & 9 Join shoulders, join sleeve seams 1.1
7 7 Att. Binding and lace to neck & tab 0.7
8 10 Attach sleeve on round 1.4
9 11 Whip hem 0.9
10 12 Top stitch neck & two sleeves 1.0
Total 10.00
The above table shows a much more balanced line in which there is a less chance of
bottle necks, off standard time and delays. Sequence of some operations is changed and
the operations with smaller SAM are joined into one workstation to make the workflow
smoother. If the workflow is smooth and there are no bottlenecks, it’s much easier to
identify every operation in the manufacturing of a product and the operator performing
any operation can be tracked at a later stage. For this very reason, each and every
operation must be identified, its work method defined, its standard time calculated and its
rate per dozen pieces be calculated.
The IE Department gives a name to every operation, along with the machine on which the
operation is going to be performed and gives a code to that operation to make it unique
and differentiable from other operations. An operation details sheet as used in Masood
Textile Mills is shown on the next page:
33. - 33 -
5.4) Operation Details
As used in Masood Textile Mills
Customer PO: JCP-POLO5746-Q ID:
Style Code: 2D06011503
Cutting Rate: 18.00 Planned Div.: Apparel 1
Collar Opening Rate: 4.50 Approved By: 9106-ABDUL WASEEM
Operator: AP23516 Cuff Opening Rate: 2.50
Seq # Code Process Name Machine
Type
Rate Per
Dozen
SAM
2 483 Placket Fusing Press 3.50
3 15 Moon O/L Over Lock 2.00
4 14 Cuff Cutting O/L Over Lock 2.00
5 10 Cuff A O/L Over Lock 4.00
6 97 Cuff B F/L Flat Lock 3.50
7 24 Moon Attach L/S Lock Stitch 5.50
8 C02 Placket A L/S Lock Stitch 9.00
9 11 Shoulder A O/L Over Lock 4.00
10 08 Shoulder B F/L Flat Lock 3.00
11 09 Collar Cutting O/L Over Lock 3.00
12 18 Placket B L/S Lock Stitch 16.00
13 21 Collar A L/S Lockstitch 11.00
14 16 Collar B L/S Lock Stitch 8.00
15 07 Body Hem F/L Flat Lock 5.00
16 12 Side O/L Over Lock 6.00
17 G696 Arm Hole A O/L Over Lock 5.00
18 06 Arm Hole B F/L Flat Lock 5.00
19 19 Side Vent L/S Lock Stitch 21.00
20 C07 Cuff + Thoka L/S Lock Stitch 3.00
21 B75 Loopi Making L/S Lock Stitch 2.50
22 27 Kaj & Button Button Holer 5.50
26 04 Twill Tape + Press Press 1.50
27 05 Moon Press Press 3.00
28 F40 Heat Transfer
Label
Press 2.40
29 02 Garment Press Press 8.00
Total: 167.40
34. - 34 -
Customer PO: JCP-POLO5730-B ID:
Style Code: 2D07031520 Cutting Rate: 28.00
Planned Div.: Apparel 1 Bundling Rate: 7.00
Collar Opening Rate: Approved By: 33662-SOHAIL ABBAS
Operator: AP23516 Cuff Opening Rate:
Seq # Code Process Name Machine
Type
Rate Per
Dozen
SAM
1 15 Moon O/L Over Lock 2.00
2 24 Moon Attach L/S Lock Stitch 5.50
3 184 Cuff Rib Cutting O/L Over Lock 2.00
4 938 Cuff Rib Attach O/L Over Lock 4.00
5 C10 Cuff Rib Top Stitch
F/L
Flat Lock 3.50
6 629 Sleeve Inseam O/L Over Lock 4.00
7 25 Placket A L/S Lock Stitch 10.00
8 369 Shoulder Attach O/L Over Lock 4.00
9 B22 Shoulder Top Stitch
F/L
Flat Lock 3.00
10 I85 Collar Attach + Twill
Tape
Lock Stitch 11.00
11 729 Collar Cutting O/L Over Lock 3.00
12 L76 Placket Finish “B” Lockstitch 16.00
13 16 Collar B L/S Lock Stitch 8.00
14 61 Bottom Hem F/L Flat Lock 5.00
15 L77 Side Seam O/L Over Lock 8.00
17 BA1 Sleeve Attach Over Lock 10.00
18 922 Arm Hole Topstitch Flat Lock 5.50
19 19 Side Vent L/S Lock Stitch 24.00
20 J64 Cuff + Thoka L/S Lock Stitch 3.50
21 AR1 Vent Bartack Button
Holer
2.50
22 27 Kaj & Button Button
Holer
7.00
23 I37 Main Label on Heat
Transfer
Press 2.40
24 04 Twill Tape + Press Press 1.50
25 C05 Placket Fusing Press 3.50
26 02 Garment Press Press 8.00
Total: 184.90
35. - 35 -
The codes given in the above table are used for convenience and identification. Every
operation must have a particular code. These operations do not only help in identifying
the operations but also help in calculating the pays and incentives of the workers
according to the operation performed by the worker. Barcodes are generated containing
information about every operation. These barcodes are placed on tickets which are put
into the bundles when they are packed. If a garment is manufactured in 13 operations,
and there are 24 garments in the bundle, there will be 24x13=312 operations involved in
the manufacturing of the 24 pieces. A ticket is generated for every type of the operation.
The number of tickets is equal to the number of operations involved in to manufacturing
of that garment. In this case there will be 13 tickets in the bundle bag each representing a
particular operation for 24 pieces. The format of the ticket is:
36. - 36 -
The ticket contains the following information:
Purchase Order Number for the identification of the garment type and the
customer.
Operation Description for the identification of the operation type.
Operation code.
Standard allowed minute for the operation.
Number of pieces in the bundle.
Rate of the operation per dozen pieces.
The barcode also contains the same information and is used when this information is to
be saved into the database. This ticket is given to the operator when he completes the
stitching of all the pieces in the bundle. On completion of a bundle, the worker writes his
ID on the backside of the ticket. The supervisor or the line manager keeps collecting
these tickets from the machine operator from time to time. At the end of the day, the
supervisor hands it over to the IT Department. The IT department opens the profile of
every operator one by one using his id at the back of the ticket and scans it through the
barcode reader which saves the information to the profile of that particular operator.
5.5) Pay and Incentives Calculation in the Identification system
Consider a machine operator PD1067, performing side seam operation. There are 24
pieces in every bundle and the operator is going through all the bundles one by one. After
completion of every bundle, he writes his ID, PD1067 at the back of the ticket and puts it
into his pocket or any safe place or hands it over to the supervisor. The supervisor
collects the tickets and at the closing of the day he hands all the tickets to the IT
department. If the operator PD1067 has completed 20 bundles that day, he would have
handed over 20 tickets to the IT Department. The computer operator in the IT
Department would then open the profile of PD1067 and scan all the 20 tickets. All the
information would be saved into his profile which would generate his work done and his
pay accordingly.
37. - 37 -
No. of pieces per bag= 24
Bags finished= 20
Rate per dozen= Rs. 8.00
Number of dozens of pieces= (24x20)/12
= 40 Dozens
Pay earned by the operator= 40x8
= Rs. 320
So, at the end of the day, the worker has earned 320 Rupees. At the end of the week, the
worker can get the amount he has earned in that week. His incentives and bonuses can
also be calculated by this system which depends on the incentives and bonus system
defined by that organization. This is done by checking the efficiency and performance of
the worker. For example, if a firm has an incentives system in which the top ten most
efficient workers are awarded with incentives, the identification system can provide the
list of the top ten workers at any time. This information can then be used for awarding
incentives and bonuses. The employee of the month or employee of the year is also
selected by comparing efficiency and performance of all the workers through this
identification system.
5.6) Efficiency Calculation in the Identification System
The efficiency and performance of the workers is also measured by this system. This is
done by calculating the number of pieces or dozens of pieces a worker completes every
day. The formulae for calculation of efficiency and performance are stored in the
database which keeps calculating the efficiency and performance of every worker.
Efficiency:
No. of pieces completed= 480
Target Number of pieces= 600
38. - 38 -
Efficiency= (Number of pieces completed / Target No. of pieces) x 100
= (480 / 600) x 100
= 80%
This formula is stored in the database and it keeps calculating the efficiency of all the
workers and can be reviewed any time.
39. - 39 -
Identification in Cutting
6.1) Fabric Identification
Identification in cutting department is used to identify the fabric, the bundles and thus the
garments later on. Identification codes generated for the Cutting Department are:
Fabric lot number for fabric identification.
Bundle number for bundle identification.
Cutting ID of the cutting master.
6.2) Fabric Lot Number
The fabric, either woven or knitted is brought to the cutting unit in the form of lots. Each
lot is given a particular lot id. The lot id is usually in alpha numeric form i.e. a
combination of letters and digits. This lot id contains the following information about the
fabric:
Customer Name:
The lot id usually starts with customer’s brand name. It is usually used in abbreviated
form e.g. JCP or JP can be used for JC Penney.
Style or Garment Description:
After brand name comes the style name or the description of the garment to be
manufactured. For example AZ is used for Arizona which is a style name of the JC
Penney Apparels.
Fabric Design:
A combination of letters tells about the weave or knit design of the fabric. SJ stands
for single jersey fabric. RB stands for Rib. Sometimes the garment consists of more
40. - 40 -
than one type of fabric. In this case, a combination is defined which represents all the
fabrics used in the garment.
Inspection Results:
The lot id also tells about the condition of the fabric. In many manufacturing units,
AA is included in the lot id which means that the fabric was declared OK by the
fabric inspector in the first inspection. BA means that the fabric had some faults in the
first inspection. Then it was mended and was again inspected and declared OK by the
fabric inspector. Similarly CA means that the fabric was declared OK after two
repairs.
Lot Number:
If there are more than one lots of the fabric with same colour and design, a number is
put at the end of the lot id which identifies the similar lots from each other.
Example:
A lot of fabric with a lot id; JPP542SJYAA3 shows that the fabric is
manufactured to make garments for JC Penney, P542 is the garment or the style
description, SJ shows that the fabric is Single Jersey in Yellow colour, fabric has no
faults and is in satisfactory condition for use, there were more than one lots of the
same fabric and the fabric with this id is from the third lot.
41. - 41 -
Every lot id has a particular meaning. It can vary from order to order, organization to
organization. The development of lot id depends on the preferences of the
manufacturer. Lot id can be used directly in the alpha numeric form with each lot, or
barcodes can be developed which can store the lot id and when brought in alignment
with the barcode reader, it can refer to a particular entry made in the database for that
particular lot of the fabric.
6.3) Bundle Identification
Fabric is then spread and cutting is started. The cutting department cuts the fabric
according to the number of pieces required for each size. After cutting, pieces of same
size are separated. Then bundles are made. A bundle may contain the cut pieces of ten
to twenty four or more garments of the same size. This depends on the nature of the
unit and the flow line. These bundles also require identification. The bundle id is used
to identify every bundle. The bundle id consists of a combination of numbers and
alphabets that helps in identifying lets from each other. There can be more than a
hundred lots for an order, so the identification of the bundles is important. Usually the
bundle id contains four to five letters or digits which are enough for its identification
because the brand name and the PO number are already there on the ticket attached to
the bundle. Bundles are usually plastic bags which contain the pieces of fabric ready
for stitching. The bundle id tickets are pasted on these bags and the IT department is
asked to generate barcodes and ids for each garment and operation.
The name or the employee id of the cutting master is also present on each bundle.
This is usually used to track the cause of a defect at any later stage in response to a
complaint. This helps in finding out the machine on which the defect was produced.
The root cause of the defect can be traced and eliminated in this way.
The bundle id ticket is usually in the following format:
42. - 42 -
The bundle id contains the following information:
Purchase order number for that particular order.
Packing date of the bundle or the bag.
Style Number as given by the customer.
Cutting Unit Number in which the cutting of the bundle took place.
Garment Description.
Rack Number on which the bundle is placed.
The barcode containing a number that refers to the database entry containing
information about the bundle.
Fabric Lot Number.
Size of the garments in the bag.
43. - 43 -
Cut ID or the Employee ID of the Cutting Master.
Weight of the bag in Kilograms.
Colour of the fabric.
Number of bundles in the bag. Usually it is one but sometimes there are more than
one bundles in the bag.
Number of Pieces of garments in the bag.
Bundle Number which is used for the identification of the bundle from other
bundles cut for the same order.
The bundles with tickets are then moved to the assembly line for stitching.
44. - 44 -
Identification in Production
7.1) Garment Identification
After cutting and bundling, the bundle bags are brought into the production line. The flow
line is designed and the bundles are handed over to the first work station so that the
production may be started according to the theoretical work flow. In the bundle bags,
along with the operation identification tickets, there are garment identification tickets
which are used to identify and track garments. These tickets contain a code that tells
everything about the garment. The format of the ticket is following:
These tickets are printed and put into the bundle bags and have to be stitched into the
garment during the stitching process. Each ticket contains three identical codes, each of
which provides information about the garment. One part of the ticket is removed by the
In-Line inspector, the second is removed by the Final Inspector and the third one remains
with the garment for identification and tracking at a later stage. The ticket usually
contains the following information:
Customer Name in abbreviated form
Garment Description
Fabric Lot number from which the garment is cut
Bundle Number
Piece Number
Size
45. - 45 -
The above garment id contains five parts:
DK: DK is the abbreviation of the customer name or the brand name. For example
JCP is used for JC Penney, DK is used for DKNY, NX is used for NEXT and
similarly CK is used for Calvin Klein. The customer name is very important in
identification of the garment as there can be orders from different customers in
the production line.
JO: This is a little explanation of the garment that is going to be stitched. It can
also be a representation of the PO Number. This separates different orders from
same customer. For example SPS can stand for striped polo shirt. Similarly HTS
may stand for Hooded Tee Shirt.
4L76: 4L76 is the bundle number which was cut for this particular order. This
bundle number separates different bundles made for the same order. This is the
bundle number or the bag number in which the cut pieces are brought from the
cutting department to the production line. After cutting, the cut pieces are
separated according to their sizes and sometimes according to colour, and are put
into plastic bags. Each bag contains a specific number of pieces to be sewn. The
number of Garment ID tickets is same as the number of pieces of garments in the
bundle. The bundle number separates the cut pieces that are from the same
customer, order and fabric lot but are packed in different bags. “4L” represents a
colour, “76” represents the bundle number of that colour and size.
21: This is the piece number of the garment in the bundle. A bag containing 24
pieces of garments will have 24 tickets, each to be attached to one garment. The
piece number separates the garments in a bundle that are from same customer,
order, fabric lot and bundle.
46. - 46 -
XL: XL represents the size of the garment to be sewn. This separates the garments
with same id but different size.
The tickets are printed on a special kind of paper which has a good washing fastness so
that the ticket may not deteriorate on washing. The ink used for printing must also has a
good washing fastness so that it may not fade out on washing. The number of tickets in
the bag is equal to the number of pieces of garments to be made out of that bag. Tickets
are printed in a combination to save time and are cut and separated in the production unit.
For a bundle with 24 pieces of small size to be stitched, the tickets are placed in the bag
in the following form:
47. - 47 -
These tickets are printed together to save time and avoid any misplacement of tickets.
The tickets are separated and are handed over to the operator performing side seam or
shoulder seam. He stitches the ticket into the garment.
After the stitching of the garment, the In-Line Inspector checks the garments for quality
assurance. If he finds the garment okay he removes a part of the ticket and pastes it on hi
work sheet. If the garment is not in the perfect form, he hands it back to the operator for
mending of the fault.
48. - 48 -
At the end of the day the In-Line inspector writes his name and ID on his worksheet
where he had pasted the tickets and submits it to the IT Department. The IT department
checks the id of the inspector and the profile of that worker is opened. The identification
codes of the garments that he has cleared are added into his profile. His pay is also
calculated on the number of pieces that he has cleared that is equal to the number of
tickets he has submitted.
At any later stage, in case of any complaint from the consumer or the customer, the ID of
the garment is tracked. This tracking tells everything about that garment including the
inspectors name and id who had declared that garment okay. Thus if an inspector declares
a defected garments as okay, he is going to be responsible for that complaint.
The garments that have been declared okay by the In-Line Inspector are then taken to the
finishing department. In the finishing department, the Final Inspectors inspect the
garment clockwise. All the seams and stitches are checked and in case of any defect, a
small blank sticker is pasted at the point where the defect is observed. The defected
garment is then handed over for mending. If the fault is removable, the garment is
mended and again brought to the inspector who checks it again until it is declared okay.
On declaring the garment okay, the Final Inspector removes the second part of the ID
Ticket and pastes it on his worksheet and submits it to the IT department at the end of the
day. In case of any complaint at any later stage, the inspector can be easily tracked
through the tracking system and is held responsible for the complaint.
49. - 49 -
Identification in Packing
8.1) Identification in Packing
The finished and inspected garments are carefully placed into a plastic bag and the bag is
closed. The assortment plan is provided by the customer. This assortment plan contains a
packing plan for each carton in terms of the different sizes and colours. Usually
assortment is done on basis of the sizes but sometimes the customer demands assortment
on basis of colour. After putting the garments into the carton according to the assortment
plan, the carton is closed and sealed.
The carton also needs identification. One must know what’s inside the carton without
opening it. So, a sticker ticket is pasted on the carton which explains the product inside
the carton. This identification is also used by the quality assurance department for final
inspection. The final inspectors select some cartons from the store before shipment and
inspect them for quality assurance.
The carton identification ticket usually has the following format:
The carton identification ticket usually has the following information:
50. - 50 -
Purchase order number.
Style number as provided by the buyer.
Colour of the garments in the carton.
Sizes of the garments in the carton.
Number of pieces i.e the number of garments in the carton.
The Barcode containing all the above information for auto ID.
51. - 51 -
Identification in Shipment
9.1) Identification in Shipment
Identification codes are also used while shipping the garments through sea or air to any
other country or state. These barcodes and symbols contain the name of the consignee
and the shipper or the name of the companies involved. It also has information about the
product inside the cartons. The barcodes and other identification codes are in the form of
a sticker which is pasted on the master carton. The sticker has the following format:
It contains the following information:
52. - 52 -
Address of the office of the manufacturer or the shipper who is manufacturing and
shipping the product to the buyer.
Address of the buying company where the goods are to be shipped.
The Lot number or the carton number which identifies cartons from each other.
Contract number of the deal between the buyer and the manufacturer.
Sizes of the garments in the carton either individual or assorted.
Purchase order number.
Colour of the garments in the carton.
Pack Quantity in each master carton.
Origin. The country where the goods have been manufactured.
Barcodes containing P.O. number, item number and quantity and destination
address for auto ID.
53. - 53 -
Identification at Shops and Marts
10.1) Identification at Shops and Marts
The identification and traceability logic is as important in a shop as it is in the industry.
The identification and tracking systems are used on shops to identify and track products
in the inventory. It is also used to save time using auto-ID tools like barcodes and RFID
tags. An increased traffic in a shop can cause many problems like customer
dissatisfaction due to wastage of time waiting in a queue. If the shopkeeper has to check
all the garments visually and then make the bill or any other documentation, a lot of time
is consumed. Contrary to this, if barcodes are used on every garment in relation to a
database in the pc, the shopkeeper just has to bring the barcode in alignment to the
barcode scanner. The scanner will automatically open the information of that particular
garment and add this information to the receipt to be printed, thus saving a lot of time.
Similarly, if RFID tags and scanners are used, the time consumed in aligning the scanner
and the ticket is also subtracted. In addition, the RFID Tags can also be used for security
purposes and minimize the chances of theft from the shop.
The barcodes or RFID Tags used at garment shops usually have the following
information:
Brand Name.
Style number or style name of the garment.
Size of the garment.
Colour of the garment.
Price of the garment.
The barcode attached to a garment usually has the following format:
54. - 54 -
NEXT is the brand name, Silver Hawk is the style name, Size, Colour and price is also
mentioned along with the barcode.
RFID tags are often envisioned as a replacement for barcodes, having a number of
important advantages over the older barcode technology. They may not ever completely
replace barcodes, due to their higher cost. Still some famous brands stores and shops use
RFID Tags on the garments.
55. - 55 -
Conclusion
The identification at all stages makes it quite easy to assess and control all the processes
taking place in the manufacturing of apparel products. The identification and traceability
logic helps to reach the root cause of any problem or defect and makes it possible to
totally remove the problem and avoid it later on. The identification logic makes the flow
smooth and decreases the lead time. The customer complaints are treated in a much better
way leading to total customer satisfaction. Identification and traceability logic is also a
tool for total quality management and is a step towards zero defects.
Identification if implemented properly can reduce any chances of ambiguity at any stage.
Each garment, operation and worker has a particular identity which differentiates it from
all similar entities. The tracking system can locate any entity at any time which can save
a lot of time which otherwise would have been wasted on searching that entity. Auto-
Identification can also save a lot of time while loading the information into a computer
system. The barcodes and the other auto-id tools are moving the apparel industry towards
automation and innovation which will help the apparel industry to grow technologically
and reduce human involvement.
The induction of the latest technology in the local apparel industry is the need of the hour
and a great deal of emphasis should be given to this fact in order to keep ahead of the
competitors. Identification and traceability logic is one such important step which should
be taken to keep pace with the latest industrial trends.
56. - 56 -
Recommendations
The logic designed for identification and tracking is not a standard for any industry or
any particular type of manufacturing. Every organization can design a logic that suits its
needs and requirements. Every organization has a particular setup and the logic should be
designed according to the system of the organization.
Implementation of identification and tracking system needs high level of programming.
Skilled software engineers should be hired for designing the system. The system can also
be designed by providing the needs and requirements to a software development firm.
Different computer programming languages can be used to create, manage and retrieve
the database. The tracking system should be easy to edit and modify so that any changes
in the structure and system of the organization can easily be added into the tracking
system. Similarly, the software should have the facility to be altered according to the new
orders from the customers.
The barcode development should be maintained properly to avoid any chances of errors
later on. Well maintained barcode printers should be used for printing barcode tickets to
increase the life of the tickets.
Barcode readers should have a high degree of accuracy to avoid chances of errors. A
cheap or old reader can alter the data stored in the barcode or it takes more time to read
the barcode which results in wastage of time.
Properly balanced flow in the assembly line is very important for implementation of the
garment identification and tracking system. The manager should make sure that a worker
completes stitching a complete bag before he leaves the workplace. Half completed bags
can sometimes lead to ambiguities.
