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Alternative (more efficient)
Irrigation Systems
David A. Bainbridge
Restoration Ecologist
1
Water shortage!
• The problem of water shortage continues to
grow - both locally and globally
• At the same time the need for restoration of
dry lands and more food production from
deserts and dry lands are both increasing
• This led to my twenty year adventure with
alternative irrigation systems
Desertification
3
Desertification
now affects 1 billion people
4
Northern Mexico
The First Step
• This is not a “new” problem so I started
with an extensive literature search
• I also interviewed scientists and farmers
who visited the Dry Lands Research
Institute (at UC Riverside)
• Several interesting systems have
emerged and proved useful!
Buried Clay Pot Irrigation
• One of the most studied, and very
effective systems uses a buried clay pot
full of water to irrigate plants
• The capillary flow of water through the
clay walls of the pot is regulated by
demand - so little water is wasted
• Highly recommended! For restoration,
gardens, landscaping, farming
Simple and Effective
• Clay pots worked well
even in the lowest,
hottest desert in
California
• Excellent for
seedlings or for
starting seeds or
cuttings
• Pot rim painted white
to reduce evaporation
7
Getting Started
• Regular red clay pots
work well
• Seal the bottom hole
with a rubber cork
• (or sealant)
• Use a lid with a small
hole drilled in it to
capture rainwater
8
Place the pot
• Set the pot in the soil
so the rim is above
ground
• You don’t want dirt
and leaves to wash
in
• Firm the soil around
the pot -- and plant
9
A Long Tradition
• A Chinese agricultural text describes the use
of buried clay pot irrigation in China more than
2,000 years ago
• Excerpts from this book provided my
inspiration -- writing does speak across time
• I later found work and use of clay pots in Iran,
Pakistan, Mexico and other countries
Fewer Weeds
• Another great advantage of buried clay
pots (and other deep watering systems)
is reduced weed growth
• In one study weeds were cut 87%
• Less work - and less wasted water!
Buried clay pots
• Buried clay pots have also proved to be
very effective when saline water must be
used - or when salt is a
problem in the soil
• The steady moisture reduces salt
buildup in the root zone and damage
Starting Cuttings
• Double clay pots are
ideal for starting cuttings
• The inner pot is sealed
and filled with water
• The moisture is
maintained in the soil at
an ideal level
• BCP are good for
starting cuttings in the
field as well
13
Deep Pipe Irrigation
• From India - water was placed in the hollow
stem of a dead plant to water deeper in the soil
• Subsequent research found one study and one
report from India
• This has been our best system for restoration
work -- cheap, durable and very effective
14
Deep pipe installation
• The pipe may be
about 14-16” long, 2”
diameter, set
vertically
• Small holes are
drilled on the plant
side below soil level
• A screen lid is glued
on to protect wildlife
Deep pipe drip
• Where a drip system can
be set up it can also be
used in a deep pipe
• Smaller pipes can be
used with the emitter
inserted in the pipe
No waste
• Little water evaporates because the
water is placed in the deep soil
• Little time is wasted because it is fast
and easy to fill the pipe
• It works very well on slopes
• It develops large root systems
Excellent Results
• Survival can be
good with very
little water
• Mesquite trees
were started with
a total of only 5
gallons of water
in the first year
• Not five gallons a
week or two
gallons an hour
Wick Irrigation
• Wick systems were also described in
reports from India
• Wicks were traditionally combined with
clay pots to water orchard trees
• After trying several types of wick
systems I think this may be the next
great thing!
Wick options
• Wicks can be used in a capillary form,
where water is wicked from a reservoir
to the plant through a raised section by
capillary forces (as little as 20 ml day)
• Or in a gravity feed form, with the
reservoir above the wick (a hose clamp
can be used to adjust the flow rate)
Wick options
• Wick with clay pot
• With a riser tube in
bottom hole
• Capillary wick from
buried bottle in
plastic tube
Gravity wicks
• Half inch diameter
gravity wick with
large reservoir
• Installed with
treeshelter and wire
cages for jack rabbit
protection
• Seedlings topped
treeshelter at 3
weeks!
Wick Material
• Fresh braided nylon or polyester (not
polypropylene) rope can be used if it is
washed with detergent to remove oils
• 7/16 inch wicks seem to be a good size
and fit well in 1/2” ID tubing
• Cotton is used in India, but tended to
mold in my early tests
Porous Hose
• This system uses a vertically placed
leaky or porous hose section
• It performs a bit like a clay pot--only it is
cheaper and smaller
• These hoses are made of recycled
rubber and hold up well but water
release is less predictable
Porous hose
• This can be fed by a
bottle
• Or attached to a drip
type line
• Both have worked
reasonably well
• A fast rate hose is
needed to work at
low pressure
Tree shelter
• Watering into a tree
shelter is also effective if
the base is sealed into
the soil
• This can be done by
hand from a hose, water
jugs or using a drip type
system
26
Perforated Pipe
• Sub-irrigation can
also be done with
slotted drain pipe
• The pipe is laid deep
in the soil and filled
with water using a
water truck
• Best for lines of plants
- good for windbreaks
and landscaping
27
Porous Capsules
• A modern adaptation of
buried clay pot irrigation
was developed in Brazil
• The clay is formed into a
capsule that can be
placed on a water line
• These worked well -- but
were more costly to
make
28
Types
• Porous capsule
made by gluing two
red clay pots
together (I would
use Gorilla glue)
• Porous capsules
made by a staffer
using a beer bottle
mold worked well
29
Porous capsules
• These are easy to plumb
in a system
• Or they can be gravity
fed from a bottle or tank
• These are very efficient
• A range of smaller
porous irrigation
systems are sold for
container plants
30
Microcatchments
• A microcatchment is a specially contoured
area with slopes and berms designed to
increase runoff and concentrate it
• Rain falling on the catchment area drains into
a planting basin where it infiltrates and is
effectively "stored" in the soil profile
• Used for millennia - very effective if it rains!
But can also be filled from a water truck if it
doesn’t rain
A Microcatchment
• Microcatchments
can be shaped to
look more natural,
but do entail
disturbing the soil
surface
• More appropriate in
agriculture - but has
worked well on
restoration projects
Problems with drip
• Drip irrigation has been very effective in
agriculture, but we can do better
• Water for drip must be filtered and
pressurized and maintenance is critical
• These alternatives may be 2-4 times
more water efficient than surface drip
Drip problems
• Drip is not well suited
for remote sites - due to
animal damage
• Even when open water
is nearby animals will
chew on drip tubing
• Insect and salt clogging
and other problems
also occur regularly
The best system?
• It depends
• All have been good for some situations
• Deep pipes have been used most often
• Perforated pipe is now used in some
situations (linear plantings Mojave)
• Wicks are promising
Container type
• The container type,
planting system and site
make a difference in
irrigation choice
• Tall pot, half high, deep
pot, plant band, cutting or
supercell?
• Ease of access
• Watering interval and
depth to groundwater
• Goals for survival and
growth
How efficient?
• My goal has been to irrigate plants with
minimal water use -- perhaps a quart a
month for species like mesquite
• This has been possible if they get a tree
shelter to moderate temperatures and
protect from the wind
• They won’t grow much - but they will
survive until it rains
Restoration in remote places
• My goal has been to
reduce water use
during establishment
to a low enough level
that it could be done
by hand carrying
water some distance
• Or using a mule, many
miles from the water
source
38
It is possible
39
Mesquite planting near the Salton Sea
More information
• A Guide for Desert and Dryland
Restoration 2007
• Gardening with Less Water 2015
• Bulletins and reports at
http://works.bepress.com/david_a_bainb
ridge
41
You Can Help
• Try these systems -- figure out how to make
them better, cheaper and more efficient
• Find out what works and what doesn’t for you
-- and let me know at sustainabilityleader (at)
gmail.com
• Send money to support research (not a 501C3
so not tax deductible)
• Buy ten books and send them to Africa, India,
Mexico, Asia and your local library
Thanks
• To friends, students (AIU, SDSU, UCR,
WCIU), staff, funders, vendors and family who
have helped over the last 35 years
• To the traditional farmers who have shared
information and ideas freely
• Special thanks to Steve Mitchell, Wes Jarrell,
Ross Virginia, Mike Allen, Pam Beare, and
John Rieger who made this work possible

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More efficient irrigation systems

  • 1. Alternative (more efficient) Irrigation Systems David A. Bainbridge Restoration Ecologist 1
  • 2. Water shortage! • The problem of water shortage continues to grow - both locally and globally • At the same time the need for restoration of dry lands and more food production from deserts and dry lands are both increasing • This led to my twenty year adventure with alternative irrigation systems
  • 4. Desertification now affects 1 billion people 4 Northern Mexico
  • 5. The First Step • This is not a “new” problem so I started with an extensive literature search • I also interviewed scientists and farmers who visited the Dry Lands Research Institute (at UC Riverside) • Several interesting systems have emerged and proved useful!
  • 6. Buried Clay Pot Irrigation • One of the most studied, and very effective systems uses a buried clay pot full of water to irrigate plants • The capillary flow of water through the clay walls of the pot is regulated by demand - so little water is wasted • Highly recommended! For restoration, gardens, landscaping, farming
  • 7. Simple and Effective • Clay pots worked well even in the lowest, hottest desert in California • Excellent for seedlings or for starting seeds or cuttings • Pot rim painted white to reduce evaporation 7
  • 8. Getting Started • Regular red clay pots work well • Seal the bottom hole with a rubber cork • (or sealant) • Use a lid with a small hole drilled in it to capture rainwater 8
  • 9. Place the pot • Set the pot in the soil so the rim is above ground • You don’t want dirt and leaves to wash in • Firm the soil around the pot -- and plant 9
  • 10. A Long Tradition • A Chinese agricultural text describes the use of buried clay pot irrigation in China more than 2,000 years ago • Excerpts from this book provided my inspiration -- writing does speak across time • I later found work and use of clay pots in Iran, Pakistan, Mexico and other countries
  • 11. Fewer Weeds • Another great advantage of buried clay pots (and other deep watering systems) is reduced weed growth • In one study weeds were cut 87% • Less work - and less wasted water!
  • 12. Buried clay pots • Buried clay pots have also proved to be very effective when saline water must be used - or when salt is a problem in the soil • The steady moisture reduces salt buildup in the root zone and damage
  • 13. Starting Cuttings • Double clay pots are ideal for starting cuttings • The inner pot is sealed and filled with water • The moisture is maintained in the soil at an ideal level • BCP are good for starting cuttings in the field as well 13
  • 14. Deep Pipe Irrigation • From India - water was placed in the hollow stem of a dead plant to water deeper in the soil • Subsequent research found one study and one report from India • This has been our best system for restoration work -- cheap, durable and very effective 14
  • 15. Deep pipe installation • The pipe may be about 14-16” long, 2” diameter, set vertically • Small holes are drilled on the plant side below soil level • A screen lid is glued on to protect wildlife
  • 16. Deep pipe drip • Where a drip system can be set up it can also be used in a deep pipe • Smaller pipes can be used with the emitter inserted in the pipe
  • 17. No waste • Little water evaporates because the water is placed in the deep soil • Little time is wasted because it is fast and easy to fill the pipe • It works very well on slopes • It develops large root systems
  • 18. Excellent Results • Survival can be good with very little water • Mesquite trees were started with a total of only 5 gallons of water in the first year • Not five gallons a week or two gallons an hour
  • 19. Wick Irrigation • Wick systems were also described in reports from India • Wicks were traditionally combined with clay pots to water orchard trees • After trying several types of wick systems I think this may be the next great thing!
  • 20. Wick options • Wicks can be used in a capillary form, where water is wicked from a reservoir to the plant through a raised section by capillary forces (as little as 20 ml day) • Or in a gravity feed form, with the reservoir above the wick (a hose clamp can be used to adjust the flow rate)
  • 21. Wick options • Wick with clay pot • With a riser tube in bottom hole • Capillary wick from buried bottle in plastic tube
  • 22. Gravity wicks • Half inch diameter gravity wick with large reservoir • Installed with treeshelter and wire cages for jack rabbit protection • Seedlings topped treeshelter at 3 weeks!
  • 23. Wick Material • Fresh braided nylon or polyester (not polypropylene) rope can be used if it is washed with detergent to remove oils • 7/16 inch wicks seem to be a good size and fit well in 1/2” ID tubing • Cotton is used in India, but tended to mold in my early tests
  • 24. Porous Hose • This system uses a vertically placed leaky or porous hose section • It performs a bit like a clay pot--only it is cheaper and smaller • These hoses are made of recycled rubber and hold up well but water release is less predictable
  • 25. Porous hose • This can be fed by a bottle • Or attached to a drip type line • Both have worked reasonably well • A fast rate hose is needed to work at low pressure
  • 26. Tree shelter • Watering into a tree shelter is also effective if the base is sealed into the soil • This can be done by hand from a hose, water jugs or using a drip type system 26
  • 27. Perforated Pipe • Sub-irrigation can also be done with slotted drain pipe • The pipe is laid deep in the soil and filled with water using a water truck • Best for lines of plants - good for windbreaks and landscaping 27
  • 28. Porous Capsules • A modern adaptation of buried clay pot irrigation was developed in Brazil • The clay is formed into a capsule that can be placed on a water line • These worked well -- but were more costly to make 28
  • 29. Types • Porous capsule made by gluing two red clay pots together (I would use Gorilla glue) • Porous capsules made by a staffer using a beer bottle mold worked well 29
  • 30. Porous capsules • These are easy to plumb in a system • Or they can be gravity fed from a bottle or tank • These are very efficient • A range of smaller porous irrigation systems are sold for container plants 30
  • 31. Microcatchments • A microcatchment is a specially contoured area with slopes and berms designed to increase runoff and concentrate it • Rain falling on the catchment area drains into a planting basin where it infiltrates and is effectively "stored" in the soil profile • Used for millennia - very effective if it rains! But can also be filled from a water truck if it doesn’t rain
  • 32. A Microcatchment • Microcatchments can be shaped to look more natural, but do entail disturbing the soil surface • More appropriate in agriculture - but has worked well on restoration projects
  • 33. Problems with drip • Drip irrigation has been very effective in agriculture, but we can do better • Water for drip must be filtered and pressurized and maintenance is critical • These alternatives may be 2-4 times more water efficient than surface drip
  • 34. Drip problems • Drip is not well suited for remote sites - due to animal damage • Even when open water is nearby animals will chew on drip tubing • Insect and salt clogging and other problems also occur regularly
  • 35. The best system? • It depends • All have been good for some situations • Deep pipes have been used most often • Perforated pipe is now used in some situations (linear plantings Mojave) • Wicks are promising
  • 36. Container type • The container type, planting system and site make a difference in irrigation choice • Tall pot, half high, deep pot, plant band, cutting or supercell? • Ease of access • Watering interval and depth to groundwater • Goals for survival and growth
  • 37. How efficient? • My goal has been to irrigate plants with minimal water use -- perhaps a quart a month for species like mesquite • This has been possible if they get a tree shelter to moderate temperatures and protect from the wind • They won’t grow much - but they will survive until it rains
  • 38. Restoration in remote places • My goal has been to reduce water use during establishment to a low enough level that it could be done by hand carrying water some distance • Or using a mule, many miles from the water source 38
  • 39. It is possible 39 Mesquite planting near the Salton Sea
  • 40. More information • A Guide for Desert and Dryland Restoration 2007 • Gardening with Less Water 2015 • Bulletins and reports at http://works.bepress.com/david_a_bainb ridge
  • 41. 41
  • 42. You Can Help • Try these systems -- figure out how to make them better, cheaper and more efficient • Find out what works and what doesn’t for you -- and let me know at sustainabilityleader (at) gmail.com • Send money to support research (not a 501C3 so not tax deductible) • Buy ten books and send them to Africa, India, Mexico, Asia and your local library
  • 43. Thanks • To friends, students (AIU, SDSU, UCR, WCIU), staff, funders, vendors and family who have helped over the last 35 years • To the traditional farmers who have shared information and ideas freely • Special thanks to Steve Mitchell, Wes Jarrell, Ross Virginia, Mike Allen, Pam Beare, and John Rieger who made this work possible