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SEPTEMBER 2021
LUXURY NOW
HEADLINES FROM CHINA
looklook.app
Contents
Objectives and methodology
3
8
10
29
47
57
2
What to be aware of NOW
A spending pause
The rise of China chic
The unmet need for social, virtual luxury
Final Takeaways
looklook.app
Objectives &
methodology
3
looklook.app
Objective
To uncover fresh insights about how Chinese young
women are thinking about luxury:
• What are they desiring now?
• Where will they spend in 4Q 2021?
• How are traditional Western luxury brands faring vs.
the increasingly competitive market of native Chinese
brands?
• How are they shopping? What are the unmet needs
and opportunities?
looklook.app
4
Objective
&
methodology
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Methodology
We use our MYLOOKLOOK WeChat mini program to
engage directly with young Chinese luxury shoppers to
capture the most natural and authentic moments.
These conversation streams flow into the LookLook platform
seamlessly so that data from the Chinese market can be
directly integrated with that of any other market in the world.
Our work in China is conducted by native Chinese, some of
the best moderators and translators in the world. We
conduct recruitment with a non-traditional, highly selective
approach that ensures 100% integrity and quality.
looklook.app
5
Objective
&
methodology
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We engaged 100 women individually over
the course of 5 days
100 Young Luxury Buyers
Suzhou, 23
Qinyu
Shenzhen, 25
Lianyi
Shanghai, 33
Chen
Xian, 28
Xichen
Shenzhen, 24
Qiying
Shanghai, 23
Xiaochen
• Gen Z (18-24): 39 participants
• Gen Y (25-35): 61 participants
• Mix of single and married
• Tier 1 & 2 cities across China
• Spending requirement on luxury P12M:
$10k+ with at least $2k in luxury RTW
Objective
&
methodology
looklook.app
100 Luxury Buyers in Major Markets
BEIJING
SHANGHAI
CHENGDU
SHENZHEN
HARBIN
GUANGZHOU
HANGZHOU
SUZHOU
NANJING
NINGBO
WUXI
HEFEI
XIAN
MIANYANG
LUOYANG
JINAN
TIANJING
TAIPEI
Objective
&
methodology
Shanghai, Beijing, Guangzhou,
Chengdu, Shenzhen, Hangzhou,
Suzhou, Nanjing, Ningbo, Wuxi, Hefei,
Xian, Mianyang, Luoyang, Jinan,
Tianjin, Harbin, Taipei
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What to be aware of NOW
8
• She is proud of the way China has
mastered Covid in ways few nations
have.
• She is incredibly assured of her own
financial future and interest in luxury
goods.
• Enthusiasm for native luxury brands
such as Cindy Chao and Florasis, is
growing.
• Beauty is the category that seems
most vulnerable to the growing
influence of Chinese brands.
• She likes digital try-on experiences
and sees virtual fashion as the new
wave to come.
• Accustomed to gaming and
obsessed with avatars, she welcomes
a metaverse where she can have
access globally to collections and
play with looks from designers from
the comfort of home.
• One of the key points of appeal:
shopping virtual fashion with friends
and posting it on social media.
• After healthy levels of spending on
luxury skincare, handbags and
jewelry in early 2021, there has
been a pause since summer as the
Chinese luxury buyer recalibrates to
the global slowdown.
• Feeling less urgency to purchase
due to travel restrictions, she is
waiting until she can resume her
luxury spending abroad.
• When borders re-open, expect
luxury RTW sales in particular to
jump dramatically.
looklook.app
What
to
be
aware
of
NOW
The rise of China chic The unmet need for social,
virtual luxury
A spending pause
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10
A spending pause
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4 of 5 luxury buyers say their desire for luxury has recently waned
Q. Which of the following statements best reflects your thinking on luxury at the current moment?
73%
9%
9%
9%
I have less of a desire for
luxury now than before the
pandemic because I have less
places to go out and wear them
My desire for luxury goods is the
same as it was before the
pandemic, no change really
After some "revenge
spending", I am feeling a little
less desire for luxury at this
moment
Coming out of the lockdown, I have
more desire than ever to experience
beautiful things. My desire for luxury
goods has increased
A
spending
pause
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Life does not feel 100% “normal” to young luxury buyers in China
“There’s less opportunity to travel because of the epidemic,
so no need to buy (luxury goods) and take pictures all the
time.“
Xuan, Suzhou, 25
“The peak of my luxury buying appetite was around 2019,
when I would buy luxury goods more frequently, both while
traveling overseas and at home. But with the epidemic,
overseas travel was restricted and the opportunities to buy
diminished. Now I have a baby, I stay home every day, and
not buying as much when you have fewer opportunities to
go out.”
Xiang, Beijing, 31
“I work from home, so my appetite for luxury goods declines
while my desire for things at home rises.”
Chen, Beijing, 35
Q. If your interest in buying luxury goods is less than it was, please tell me why”
A
spending
pause
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We asked her outright, what do you feel like doing with your discretionary
income these days? 1 in 4 wants to invest/save, at the current moment
I will invest and save any
discretionary income I have
24%
24%
18%
13%
13%
7% 1%
I will buy to reward myself
after an accomplishment or a
milestone
I will buy things that I
know will hold value
I will buy where I feel excited
and passionate to bring more
beauty and joy into my life
I will buy only what I
absolutely need
I will buy what is trendy and
in fashion to stay current
Something else
A
spending
pause
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We heard a shift towards conservatism in her attitudes about how she
is spending discretionary income
"When you can go abroad, you are accustomed to buying luxury
goods abroad, choosing more things and better prices. I have
watched Daigou's live broadcasts, but after a while of
consumption, I feel there is nothing to buy recently."
Chen, 30, Shanghai
“My money goes to shopping but also investing. I continue to buy
what I like, but I’m using the the remaining income for financial
management.“
Yingxue, Chengdu, 25
"The coming year will be spent on improving work and health: e.g.
reading books, an aura-boosting handbag, and yoga classes."
Qian, Beijing,35
"The first priority is whether I like it, but a close second is whether it
will hold its value."
Nan, Shanghai, 22
A
spending
pause
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Although 1 in 4 still buys on a whim, the majority are waiting for milestones to
make an intentional purchase
Q. Which of the following scenarios is most likely to prompt you to buy luxury goods?
31%
29%
25%
6%
5%
3%1%
Receiving a bonus at work
A birthday
When I discover something
that I love (I don't tend to wait)
National holiday
Something else
Only when I need to replace
something
When a loved one wants to buy me a gift
A
spending
pause
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Realizing how important birthdays and bonus time are validates the
importance of authentic 1:1 relationships with younger luxury buyers
“You always want to pamper yourself on your birthday, so
you are more willing to spend on yourself. “
Ran, Shanghai,24
“I will still buy as soon as I come across something I like.
During the holiday season I'll keep an eye out for new styles
to pick up in advance. “
Hang, Shanghai, 24
“Generally, I prefer to buy luxury items on memorable days
like my birthday, it will feel more ceremonial. “
Qiying, Guangzhou, 25
“It’s a must to buy myself something on birthday, and I spend
more than I normally would. “
Xueming, Beijing, 22
A
spending
pause
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39%
17%
14%
11%
5%
4%
4%
3% 3%
A new handbag
Fine jewelry or watch
An expensive trip
RTW
A new pair of shoes
Beauty, fragrance or cosmetics
An accessory like a scarf, belt, or costume jewelry
Artwork or something for home
A new car
Currently she prioritizes items she feels will hold value, with handbags and
jewelry at the top of that list
Q. At the moment, what category of luxury products do you most want to buy, and why?
A
spending
pause
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The enthusiasm for classic luxury handbags has NOT waned. And jewelry
fits her rational “milestone” and “investment” criteria right now
“I'm going to start work soon plus I have enough savings in
hand, so I hope I can get a Hermès Constance. This style is more
suitable for young people, stable but still exciting.”
Hang, Hangzhou, 22
“Coco Handle or 19 Chanel bag! It feels very classic compared
to LV, Gucci. Before the end of the year. If I still can't leave the
country, then I‘ll go to Macau to buy!“
Iris, Suzhou, 25
“It may be that as you get older you gradually feel that (the right)
jewellery or watch is something that is worth having for its
longevity.“
Xiaoxue, Shanghai, 32
A
spending
pause
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She has a wish list of coveted luxury goods … but she’s yearning to buy
them abroad
“Next year I must buy another Chanel
bag! I want to buy a white Chanel bag
next year, I hope to get it as soon as I can
leave China, and I hope to run into the
one that belongs to me, preferably the
one with pearl clasp.“
Xiaoxue, Shanghai, 26
“Ballon Bleu by Cartier, because I feel my
wrist is missing something. If I can I will
buy it abroad or find a proxy shopper.“
Shijia, Suzhou, 27
“VCA's Ten Flowers Necklace.
Planning to buy abroad, the price
difference is quite big, haha.”
Yuting, Shanghai, 32
19
Chanel CF mini Cartier Blue Balloon VCA necklace
A
spending
pause
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Has her definition of luxury changed? A segment of young Chinese
women says “yes”
I would prefer to shop for luxury abroad when travel
becomes less restrictive
26%
18%
14%
14%
13%
10%
5%
My definition of luxury has changed
somewhat
I am not less motivated to spend on
luxury right now
Because life has not returned
to "normal" 100% here yet
The government is encouraging
fewer external displays of wealth
Other reasons
I am somewhat concerned
about the economy and
the future
Q. Which statement best reflects why you might not be spending as much on luxury now?
A
spending
pause
looklook.app
Those who say their definition of
luxury has changed report a more
pragmatic attitude towards what
“luxury” means
21
“More and more I think luxury brands are a tool to quickly
establish a first impression in a certain situation (business talk,
networking, etc.) I think at its best, it's not a luxury for me, it's
an everyday item for me.”
Rongjia, Beijing, 25
“A healthy body, a relaxed and unstressed mind state and a
full-blooded curiosity about the world are new luxuries I'm
starting to aspire to.”
Han, Shanghai, 32
“I feel that luxury goods are just something to spice up my life
and improve the quality of life within my ability. Sometimes
it’s more satisfying to choose to invest rather than consume.”
Xiaoxue, Shanghai, 26
A
spending
pause
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The woman “re-considering
luxury” is considering more niche
brands as a way to set herself apart
“I don't see much point in overpaying for big names. I mainly
go for products with nice design and not just for the brand."
Nan, Shanghai, 22
“I would focus more on value retention and quality of the
product. Branding is put second."
Xichen, Xian, 26
“With Tiktok and live streaming platforms, luxury brand
education is sinking in fast in small cities, which makes
everything less unique and not luxury. I’m turning to more
niche brands to distinguish my taste from public taste.”
Xiaoying, Shanghai, 32
22
A
spending
pause
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1 in 10 cited the recent government crackdown on excessive shows of wealth
I would prefer to shop for luxury
abroad when travel becomes less
restrictive
26%
18%
14%
14%
13%
10%
5%
My definition of luxury has changed
somewhat
I am not less motivated to spend on
luxury right now
Because life has not returned to
"normal" 100% here yet
The government is encouraging
fewer external displays of wealth
Other reasons
I am somewhat concerned about the
economy and the future
Q. Which statement best reflects why you might not be spending as much on luxury now?
A
spending
pause
looklook.app
There is an inclination at the
moment to “keep a low profile”
“It feels like there has been a shift in the attitude of people
around me, including myself, towards consuming luxury
goods; people no longer consider it essential and no longer
fetishize it.”
Xiaonan, Shanghai, 22
“I don‘t think the impact of the epidemic will be seen anytime
soon; I always feel there is a “financial crisis” behind it. Also,
with the cyber violence, it's all about keeping a low profile."
Ziyi, Wuxi, 25
“At work, I doesn't want to attract unwanted attention, and I
feel that luxury is a consumer good caused by vanity, so I
want to invest money in more valuable things.”
Jing, Shenzhen, 24
24
A
spending
pause
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However, a more significant group of those reporting a spending pause say it’s
due to current travel restrictions
I would prefer to shop for luxury
abroad when travel becomes less
restrictive
26%
18%
14%
14%
13%
10
5%
My definition of luxury has changed somewhat
I am not less motivated to spend on
luxury right now
Because life has not returned to
"normal" 100% here yet
The government is encouraging
fewer external displays of wealth
Other reasons
I am somewhat concerned about
the economy and the future
Q. Which statement best reflects why you might not be spending as much on luxury now?
A
spending
pause
looklook.app
Young luxury buyers miss the
experience of shopping in Paris,
London and NYC
26
“After China's border is open again, I can travel
abroad and I will buy more.“
Zirung, Shanghai, 24
“When you’re traveling, you are always in a good mood, so
you’ll be tempted to spend money. Plus, there are better
styles and products offered abroad."
Xiaochen, Shanghai, 24
“I prefer shopping abroad, because shops offer different
products from the brand stores in China. Take Chanel
earrings for example: even in Mainland China and Hong
Kong, the products offered are very different.”
Chen, Beijing, 35
A
spending
pause
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She misses the tax breaks from
shopping abroad
27
“Domestic prices are still ridiculously high. It is more
suitable for groups with fast money. Those who make
money on their own still feel that European luxury
goods prices are better.“
Wenzhe, Shanghai, 33
„Personally, buying things at domestic stores without
a tax refund isn't worth it. So I prefer to buy when
traveling abroad because it feels like a souvenir!“
Yu, Suzhou, 25
“Price and styles in overseas stores are always better
compared to the domestic ones."
Hang, Shanghai, 24
A
spending
pause
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9%
When probed on what her favorite way to shop for luxury is,
1 in 2 refers to shopping abroad either herself or via daigou
I prefer to buy abroad because of tax reasons
I prefer to buy abroad because it is a special
memory and experience
I prefer to have an agent buy abroad and send to
me, for better selection
I prefer to buy online
Something else
I prefer to shop locally in stores so
that I can try things and consider it
before buying
32%
20%
19%
12%
9%
7% 1%
I prefer to buy abroad because of
tax reasons
I prefer to buy abroad because it is a
special memory and experience
I prefer to have an agent
buy abroad and send to
me, for better selection
I prefer to buy online
I prefer to direct message with a sales
associate so I can get personal
attention without going in store
Something else
A
spending
pause
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29
The rise of China chic
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I prefer to buy abroad because it is a special
memory and experience
I prefer to have an agent buy abroad and send to
me, for better selection
Something else
The
rise
of
China
chic
…but a number of Chinese brands are
getting buzzy
Western luxury brands still have
huge sway
Q. Which luxury brand are you coveting right at this moment?
0 5 10 15 20 25
6%
7%
Chanel
Porsche
Cartier
Hermès
Gucci
Tesla
Tiffany
Van Cleef & Arpels
Louis Vuitton
Céline
Saint Laurent
Piaget
La Mer
Dior
Estée Lauder
Off-White
Stella McCartney
BEAUTY
FASHION
CARS
JEWELRY
22%
10%
9%
8%
5%
3%
1%
2%
1%
3%
3%
5%
5%
5%
5%
looklook.app
2 of 3 young luxury buyers in China feel proud of the luxury
brand innovation happening domestically
47%
19%
19%
14%
1%
There is very interesting innovation
happening in China at the moment
I feel increasing pride in my country
and our place in the world
I am not more interested in
Chinese luxury brands
Another reason
I feel less interested in Western
luxury brands
The
rise
of
China
chic
looklook.app
She takes pride in the “Created in
China” movement
32
“I'm fascinated by the innovative ability of national products.
For example, mix-match style on Li Ning's fashion show, even
the shoe design are at the forefront of fashion. Also, the R&D
capabilities and innovation of local brands such as NIO for
new energy vehicles is mind blowing.“
Jiaxuan, Xian, 22
“There is a transformation of Made in China to Created in China,
although most still can not compete with international big
brands. But as a national movement, it is worth supporting and
encouraging; and the national brands are full of innovation and
loved by young people.“
Xiaoxue, Shanghai, 26
“Shanghai Tang retains the elements of traditional Chinese
cheongsam, fabric and embroidery is the essence of China. It is
an honor to be Chinese.“
Weidan, Shanghai, 30
The
rise
of
China
chic
looklook.app
She is rooting for ICICLE 之禾, a sustainable fashion brand
“ICICLE's ready-to-wear is great,
especially the coats and cashmere
sweaters, which have the power to
catch up with Max Mara!”
Xiang, Beijing, 33
“More young talent is emerging. The
fact is that young elite leaders of
Chinese entrepreneurs have been
exposed in the media that are also
wearing China's outstanding
clothing brands, such as ICICLE.”
Xiaoying, Shanghai, 32
“Icicle 之禾!
It also has a store in Paris and the
textures are great.”
Wenzhe, Shanghai, 33
33
Launch Date: 1997 in Shanghai
Company: ICICLE Fashion Group (acquired French brand CARVEN in 2018)
Channel: 250 doors in China, 1 flagship in Paris, Tmall Online Store
Sales Record: Topped the Tmall 11.11 Single's Day sales record in 2020
Hero Attributes Cultural Connection Superpower: pride in global
expansion
The
rise
of
China
chic
looklook.app
She identifies with the creators of Shushu Tong, a
brand designed by two GenY who add a twist to
modern femininity
“Shushu Tong's clothes are off
very good design, great for
young women”
Yu, Shanghai, 24
34
Superpower: social
media buzz
“Famous for sweet and lovely girl
style, ShuShu Tong is a new
designer, focus on ready-to-wear,
and has gain international
influence, very suitable for my
personal style”
Xiaoxue, Shanghai, 26
I‘ve been impressed with the
recent Shushu Tong craze!
Shuyu LIU, Shenzhen
25
“I‘ve been impressed with the
recent Shushu Tong craze
online!”
Shuyu, Shenzhen, 25
Style: Retro silhouettes + avant-garde
Signature: Ruffles, bowties
Debut Show: 2019SS Shanghai Fashion Week
Hero Attributes Cultural Connection
The
rise
of
China
chic
looklook.app
She considers UMA WANG a native fashion pioneer
“For ready-to-wear, I prefer to
choose Chinese designer labels
rather than international brands.
Uma Wang is my favorite Chinese
designer brand in recent years.”
Xin, Shanghai, 30
“UMA WANG, this local designer
style is quite impressive, mixing
romantic and realistic elements,
dark and light, Chinese, traditional
and modern codes.”
Zheyi, Shanghai, 32
35
Signature: Western styles with an Eastern aesthetic focus
Debut Intl Show: 2017FW Milan Fashion Week
Sales Channel: 5 retail stores (Shanghai/Beijing/Chengdu) and multibrand shops in China
Superpower: east/west design
tension
“Uma Wang!
Love the brand. The clothes are a
little hard to pull of but the ballerina
flats are super awesome.”
Xiang, Beijing, 33
Hero Attributes Cultural Connection
The
rise
of
China
chic
looklook.app
NIO 蔚来– the bright future of Chinese
“TESLA” is coming
“Local market competitiveness.
I'm optimistic.
Live-stream sales and national
emotion!”
Meng, Shanghai, 24
“NIO.
Whether it's black technology or the
re-creation of traditional culture,
domestic brands are listening more
and more to the consumer needs
and gaining more recognition”
Chenchen, Shanghai, 35
“NIO.
Both its range and after-sales
service are good”
Zizi, Shanghai, 28
36
Launch Date: 2014 in Hefei
Positioning: a pioneer in China's premium electric vehicle market
Movement: NIO shares surged more than 1,000% in 2020 after
a capital injection of $1 billion by a state-led group of investors
Superpower: attention to
local needs
Hero Attributes Cultural Connection
The
rise
of
China
chic
looklook.app
Beauty is where Chinese brands seem to be making inroads on Western
brands among young luxury buyers
34%
22%
17%
10%
8%
4%
2%2%
1%
Cosmetics & Makeup
Apparel
Skin care
Cars
Shoes
Jewelry
Health & Wellness
Fragrance Handbags
Q. Among the following options, which category has the most interesting Chinese luxury brands?
The
rise
of
China
chic
looklook.app
Beautiful packaging and better value
are the reasons cited for interest in
Chinese luxury cosmetics brands
38
“In recent years, national beauty brands have emerged a lot, and
some of them can even beat international big brands in terms of
packaging and design, such as Huaxizi, Mao Gepin, etc.“
Yingxue, Chengdu, 25
“In beauty I think, many national brands are very innovative, color
matching and texture sometimes isn't much different from big
brands and can meet the daily needs. The packaging of many
national beauty brands is very good.“
Miao, Xian, 24
“Perfect Diary's eyeshadow palette has been selling really well,
great value for price.“
Weidan, Shanghai, 29
The
rise
of
China
chic
looklook.app
Florasis is a buzzy cosmetics brand featuring a connection to Chinese heritage
“Florasis, the fine quality of its
setting power is superb. I don't
think the big houses can do the
same."
Shiqian, Shanghai, 35
“The packaging of Florasis
conveys a particularly indigenous
concept, deep into the hearts of
the people.”
Xinyi, Shanghai, 29
“Beauty brand Florasis, so pretty!
I bought eyeshadow palette but
haven’t opened it because the
packaging is so pretty. It’s more
like a collectable item!”
Xiayu, Xian, 25
39
Founded Date: 2017 in Hangzhou
Ingridents:
natural flower/herb essence
Keyword: Oriental beauty
Bestseller: Setting powder
Superpower: Packaging
Cultural Connection
Hero Product Attributes
The
rise
of
China
chic
looklook.app
We heard multiple mentions about Biohyalux, a skin
care line from a Chinese biotech company
“Biohyalux it is! daily essences do
maintain my skin in high stability!”
Yao, Shanghai, 31
“I'm quite impressed by Bloomage
Biotech (the parent company of
Biohyalux), it's a brand focus on
R&D of skincare, and its anti-aging
products performs well.”
Zijun, Mianyang, 26
“The local Hyaluronic Acid from
Biohyalux is easy to use, La Mer is
okay for hydration, but the price
is too high for its value, so I prefer
Biohyalux.”
Qian, Chengdu, 34
40
Launch Date: 2012
Product: Hyaluronic acid through microbial fermentation
Market Share: 25% of China's hyaluronic acid fillers market
Hero Product Attributes Cultural Connection Superpower: DIY medispa
The
rise
of
China
chic
looklook.app
QUADHA is a C-derma phenomenon
“In fact, the products that are
developed by biotech companies
such as Bloomage Biotech and
Voolga are quite good in quality!”
Ying, Shanghai, 31
“QUADHA.
The skin feels refreshing, and it is
advertised to be more suitable for
Asian skin, although I don't feel a lot
of difference. Overall, it feels good.”
Xueming, Beijing, 22
“Proper ingredients, conscientious
formula, expert support, high
performance, live-streaming and
marketing channel combo with
promotion and discounts.
It's hard not to be popular.”
Xiaoying, Shanghai, 32
41
Launch Date: 2018
Product: Premium clinical brand developed by Bloomage Biotech
Patent: 5D hyaluronic acid technology
Channel: live-stream-enabled sales by top KOL Austin Li
Product Attributes Cultural Connection Superpower: KOL savvy
The
rise
of
China
chic
looklook.app
Mao Geping is a Chinese legendary make-up guru with a popular line
“Mao Geping - very popular
domestic makeup expert!”
Xiaoxue, Shanghai, 26
“Mao Geping!
It’s a brand with very strong
Chinese characteristics and
aesthetics.”
Wenyi, Suzhou, 22
“Mao Gepin (cosmetic brand),
easy to use, simplistic, and
suitable for Chinese skin and
temperament, with low key
tones.”
Yao, Shanghai, 28
42
Superpower: knowing
their customers
Product Attributes Cultural Connection
The
rise
of
China
chic
looklook.app
For jewelry, Cartier and Tiffany
lead in terms of strongest desire
0 10 20 30
“I prefer Tiffany, the designs are more thoughtful and
innovative. They always catch my eye.”
Yaqing, Nanjing, 21
Cartier
Tiffany
Chow Tai Fook
Cindy Chao
Van Cleef & Arpels
Qeelin
Bulgari
Charlene Classic
He Fang Jewelry
Graff
Harry Winston
Chopard
Gerard
Chin’s Jewelry
DR Ring12.5
“The Chinese jewelry brand is Chow Tai which is more of a
traditional Chinese style. Buying foreign brands is more about
the brand names. People in love or getting married expect to
have Tiffany or Cartier.“
Tao, Shanghai, 31
Q. At the moment, which luxury jewelry brand is your favorite
and why? (open-ended)
”I prefer international brands like Cartier; it’s classic.“
Zheyi, Shanghai, 32
…luxury jewelry brands preference
55%
Western
14%
Native
31%
No preference
The
rise
of
China
chic
looklook.app
Many told us they will buy fashion
jewelry locally but save fine jewelry
purchases for international brands
44
“I prefer international jewelry brands. International
brands each have their own style, highly unlikely to see
someone else wearing the same design.”
Zizi, Shanghai, 28
“I still prefer foreign luxury brands; local jewelry brands
don't have anything that pops.“
Shijia, Suzhou, 27
“Local fashion jewelry brand design is not bad. If you
want to buy premium jewelry, you will choose Tiffany and
Cartier, which are easy to buy, the design is good, and
the after-sales service offers more of a guarantee.”
Xin, Shanghai, 30
The
rise
of
China
chic
looklook.app
Cindy Chao feels like a very “in the know” luxury brand at the moment
“The previous Cindy Chao
exhibition in Shanghai was very
mind blowing”
Ying, Shanghai, 30
“Cindy Chao's fine jewelry is more of
an artistic jewelry brand, each piece
represents not only the designer's
inspiration, skills and heartfelt
perceptions, and the work is very
touching to the heart”
Han, Shanghai, 32
Superpower: emotion
“Cindy Chao, frankly speaking, is
less popular than other big
names above, but the designs are
unique and high-end, and the
brand is highly recognized in the
jewelry field.”
Yuhan, Shanghai, 35
45
Attributes Cultural Connection
The
rise
of
China
chic
looklook.app
They go to Chow Sang Sang or Chow Tai Fook for gold stackables
“You go to Chow Tai Fook or
Chow Sang Sang for gold
products and get diamond
jewelry from Tiffany and Cartier.”
Xiaoya, Beijing, 31
Superpower: product
placement
46
“In recent years, Chow Tai Fook
has cooperated with TV drama
marketing and now almost every
shopping mall has I DO brand
and Chow Tai Fook.”
Xiaoxue, Shanghai, 26
“Chow Tai Fook's styles have
become more and more
attractive in recent years, and
gold is more valuable with higher
investment value.”
Kehan, Tianjin, 21
Attributes Cultural Connection
The
rise
of
China
chic
looklook.app
47
The unmet need for social,
virtual luxury
looklook.app
We shared the concept of virtual fashion
with young Chinese luxury buyers
Imagine using AI and your own measurement
data to create a “Virtual Double” to rent or buy
luxury fashion.
You could also use your Virtual Double to try on
luxury brands in physical stores instead of
having to go to the store to try them on. The
items on the website are designed by the
maisons and are supplied in limited quantities.
Of course, you can also share your fashion
character image on your social platforms.
The
unmet
need
for
social,
virtual
luxury
looklook.app
She LOVES the concept of a Virtual Double - it’s gaming meets fashion
Q. Which of the following statements best reflects your view of the "virtual fashion experience” described here? Why?
Virtual fashion would allow me to try on items
without going in-store, and I would love that option
27%
21%
18%
13%
13%
6% 2%
I am intrigued with the idea of virtual fashion
because the world is increasingly digitized
I support the idea of virtual fashion
because it would drastically reduce the
carbon footprint of the fashion industry
It would be fun to share "virtual" looks
on social media with my friends.
The idea of virtual fashion is not appealing to me. I
only want to have fashion I can wear in person. Something else
I think it would be fun to have a
"Virtual Double" I can use to try on
lots of different looks
The
unmet
need
for
social,
virtual
luxury
looklook.app
The Virtual Double concept sounds fun and
trendy. It also avoids having to venture into
luxury boutiques (which can be intimidating)
“Haven't used it but looking forward to it!"
Yifan, Suzhou, 22
“I think the idea is interesting because it fits the current
trend, but it’s hard o imagine the actual application.”
Shuyu, Suzhou, 22
“Some luxury stores do judge people by their appearances.
Online shopping completely avoids such situations, and
one can shop without leaving the comfort of home and
sharing on social media is fun!”
Yiwen, Xian, 23
The
unmet
need
for
social,
virtual
luxury
looklook.app
However, the pure entertainment value also comes through
clearly to them as well, with many referencing gaming or
playing with virtual try-on apps
“It sounds like an "animal forest". It's fun and you can try
different styles of styling.“
Xin, Shanghai, 30
“A lot of brands are starting to offer virtual image, for
trying-on things, I can try different mix and match on
them, and share the looks on social media, although I
don't know how to use it well.”
Shiqian, Shanghai, 35
“Some photo apps allow you to change your hairstyle.”
Lei, Sichuan, 21
The
unmet
need
for
social,
virtual
luxury
looklook.app
Women are eager for a leap forward in UX
“I really like this format. Having experienced the Goddess
Closet app 6 months ago, it's refreshing, but it would be
even better if I could reconfigure the 3D AI avatar based on
my body size!”
Chenchen, Shanghai, 35
“Overall, the points of reduced carbon footprint and easy try-
on experience are interesting. Although previous Tiffany's
virtual try on experience and MAC’s lipstick virtual try on, are
not very effective as I thought.“
Zijun, Mianyang, 26
“I think the idea is interesting because he fits the current
trend. But still no way to imagine the actual application. (Like
how realistic it would be?).”
Dan, Beijing, 26
The
unmet
need
for
social,
virtual
luxury
looklook.app
Young luxury buyers overwhelmingly shop with friends in China, but
have not found ways to do so online
VS Online
Shop with
Friends
Shop Alone
20% 80%
In Store
Shop with Friends
Shop Alone
77%
23%
The
unmet
need
for
social,
virtual
luxury
looklook.app
This preference for having social input while browsing luxury points to a
significant opportunity for digital platforms that create a sense of comfort and fun
The
unmet
need
for
social,
virtual
luxury
• I can take my time with no pressure from
salespeople
• Better assortment
“In a physical store you might feel embarrassed when
you take too long to buy something, but that doesn't
happen with online shopping.”
Hsueh Wen, Shanghai, 26
Benefits of shopping online
• Get friend’s opinion about the product
• Fun experience (fitting together)
• A way of hanging-out and getting to know more
about each other
• Avoid embarrassment of talking to SA’s by yourself
“Girls shopping together can offer each other advice,
and with lots of clothes in brick-and-mortar stores,
you can take several pieces to the fitting room at one
go and find the style that suits you best."
Tao, Shanghai, 30
Benefits of shopping with friends
“It's not embarrassing if I have company.”
Wenyi, Suzhou, 22
looklook.app
1 in 4 prefers shopping either online, via text or by daigou
for broader assortment, indicating a segment that could be
attracted by the concept of online access
9%
I prefer to buy abroad because of
I prefer to buy abroad because it
memory and experience
I prefer to have an agent buy abr
me, for better selection
I prefer to buy online
Something else
I prefer to shop locally in stores so
that I can try things and consider it
before buying
32%
20%
19%
12%
9%
7% 1%
I prefer to buy abroad because of tax
reasons
I prefer to buy abroad because it is a special memory
and experience
I prefer to have an agent buy abroad
and send to me, for better selection
I prefer to buy online
I prefer to direct message with a sales associate so I can get
personal attention without going in store
Something else
The
unmet
need
for
social,
virtual
luxury
looklook.app
56
Final Takeaways
The rise of China chic
• In beauty, consider partnering with
talent in China for experiences,
product innovation or package
design to harness growing national
pride.
• Explore collaborations with young
Chinese RTW talent.
• Consider sources of creative
inspiration for jewelry that echo
Chinese tradition and culture.
The unmet need for social,
virtual luxury
• Invest in virtual try-on technology
where she can use her digital double
to explore items.
• Consider creating virtual
environments where she can shop
with friends without leaving her
home.
• Achieving higher levels of status
through gaming is familiar and
motivating to her; elements of
achievement through spending could
spur loyalty in new ways.
A spending pause
• Life without the pleasure of going
abroad to shop does not feel
normal to the young Chinese luxury
buyer. Expect a huge demand for
luxury fashion in Western cities once
restrictions are lifted.
• She will indulge around her
personal milestones – following up
with her on birthdays, national
holidays and bonus season with
personal outreach will pay
dividends.
looklook.app
Takeaways
looklook.app
Jia (Lynn) LIN
Marketing Analyst
Lynn is a native of Shanghai and cut her teeth in
retail merchandising at Tod’s and LVMH-owned
Stella McCartney.
She graduated 2020 from ESSEC’s Luxury
Program in Paris and is LookLook’s key analyst
for the Chinese market.
Malinda Sanna
CEO
Malinda founded LookLook after working both
client-side and at several NYC branding agencies.
LookLook is an insights platform that brings the
intimacy of one-on-one dialogue to people around
the world, preparing environments for deep
listening and observation.
For more information contact
malinda@looklook.app

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LookLook Luxury NOW - China

  • 2. looklook.app Contents Objectives and methodology 3 8 10 29 47 57 2 What to be aware of NOW A spending pause The rise of China chic The unmet need for social, virtual luxury Final Takeaways
  • 4. looklook.app Objective To uncover fresh insights about how Chinese young women are thinking about luxury: • What are they desiring now? • Where will they spend in 4Q 2021? • How are traditional Western luxury brands faring vs. the increasingly competitive market of native Chinese brands? • How are they shopping? What are the unmet needs and opportunities? looklook.app 4 Objective & methodology
  • 5. looklook.app Methodology We use our MYLOOKLOOK WeChat mini program to engage directly with young Chinese luxury shoppers to capture the most natural and authentic moments. These conversation streams flow into the LookLook platform seamlessly so that data from the Chinese market can be directly integrated with that of any other market in the world. Our work in China is conducted by native Chinese, some of the best moderators and translators in the world. We conduct recruitment with a non-traditional, highly selective approach that ensures 100% integrity and quality. looklook.app 5 Objective & methodology
  • 6. looklook.app We engaged 100 women individually over the course of 5 days 100 Young Luxury Buyers Suzhou, 23 Qinyu Shenzhen, 25 Lianyi Shanghai, 33 Chen Xian, 28 Xichen Shenzhen, 24 Qiying Shanghai, 23 Xiaochen • Gen Z (18-24): 39 participants • Gen Y (25-35): 61 participants • Mix of single and married • Tier 1 & 2 cities across China • Spending requirement on luxury P12M: $10k+ with at least $2k in luxury RTW Objective & methodology
  • 7. looklook.app 100 Luxury Buyers in Major Markets BEIJING SHANGHAI CHENGDU SHENZHEN HARBIN GUANGZHOU HANGZHOU SUZHOU NANJING NINGBO WUXI HEFEI XIAN MIANYANG LUOYANG JINAN TIANJING TAIPEI Objective & methodology Shanghai, Beijing, Guangzhou, Chengdu, Shenzhen, Hangzhou, Suzhou, Nanjing, Ningbo, Wuxi, Hefei, Xian, Mianyang, Luoyang, Jinan, Tianjin, Harbin, Taipei
  • 8. looklook.app What to be aware of NOW 8
  • 9. • She is proud of the way China has mastered Covid in ways few nations have. • She is incredibly assured of her own financial future and interest in luxury goods. • Enthusiasm for native luxury brands such as Cindy Chao and Florasis, is growing. • Beauty is the category that seems most vulnerable to the growing influence of Chinese brands. • She likes digital try-on experiences and sees virtual fashion as the new wave to come. • Accustomed to gaming and obsessed with avatars, she welcomes a metaverse where she can have access globally to collections and play with looks from designers from the comfort of home. • One of the key points of appeal: shopping virtual fashion with friends and posting it on social media. • After healthy levels of spending on luxury skincare, handbags and jewelry in early 2021, there has been a pause since summer as the Chinese luxury buyer recalibrates to the global slowdown. • Feeling less urgency to purchase due to travel restrictions, she is waiting until she can resume her luxury spending abroad. • When borders re-open, expect luxury RTW sales in particular to jump dramatically. looklook.app What to be aware of NOW The rise of China chic The unmet need for social, virtual luxury A spending pause
  • 11. looklook.app 4 of 5 luxury buyers say their desire for luxury has recently waned Q. Which of the following statements best reflects your thinking on luxury at the current moment? 73% 9% 9% 9% I have less of a desire for luxury now than before the pandemic because I have less places to go out and wear them My desire for luxury goods is the same as it was before the pandemic, no change really After some "revenge spending", I am feeling a little less desire for luxury at this moment Coming out of the lockdown, I have more desire than ever to experience beautiful things. My desire for luxury goods has increased A spending pause
  • 12. looklook.app Life does not feel 100% “normal” to young luxury buyers in China “There’s less opportunity to travel because of the epidemic, so no need to buy (luxury goods) and take pictures all the time.“ Xuan, Suzhou, 25 “The peak of my luxury buying appetite was around 2019, when I would buy luxury goods more frequently, both while traveling overseas and at home. But with the epidemic, overseas travel was restricted and the opportunities to buy diminished. Now I have a baby, I stay home every day, and not buying as much when you have fewer opportunities to go out.” Xiang, Beijing, 31 “I work from home, so my appetite for luxury goods declines while my desire for things at home rises.” Chen, Beijing, 35 Q. If your interest in buying luxury goods is less than it was, please tell me why” A spending pause
  • 13. looklook.app We asked her outright, what do you feel like doing with your discretionary income these days? 1 in 4 wants to invest/save, at the current moment I will invest and save any discretionary income I have 24% 24% 18% 13% 13% 7% 1% I will buy to reward myself after an accomplishment or a milestone I will buy things that I know will hold value I will buy where I feel excited and passionate to bring more beauty and joy into my life I will buy only what I absolutely need I will buy what is trendy and in fashion to stay current Something else A spending pause
  • 14. looklook.app We heard a shift towards conservatism in her attitudes about how she is spending discretionary income "When you can go abroad, you are accustomed to buying luxury goods abroad, choosing more things and better prices. I have watched Daigou's live broadcasts, but after a while of consumption, I feel there is nothing to buy recently." Chen, 30, Shanghai “My money goes to shopping but also investing. I continue to buy what I like, but I’m using the the remaining income for financial management.“ Yingxue, Chengdu, 25 "The coming year will be spent on improving work and health: e.g. reading books, an aura-boosting handbag, and yoga classes." Qian, Beijing,35 "The first priority is whether I like it, but a close second is whether it will hold its value." Nan, Shanghai, 22 A spending pause
  • 15. looklook.app Although 1 in 4 still buys on a whim, the majority are waiting for milestones to make an intentional purchase Q. Which of the following scenarios is most likely to prompt you to buy luxury goods? 31% 29% 25% 6% 5% 3%1% Receiving a bonus at work A birthday When I discover something that I love (I don't tend to wait) National holiday Something else Only when I need to replace something When a loved one wants to buy me a gift A spending pause
  • 16. looklook.app Realizing how important birthdays and bonus time are validates the importance of authentic 1:1 relationships with younger luxury buyers “You always want to pamper yourself on your birthday, so you are more willing to spend on yourself. “ Ran, Shanghai,24 “I will still buy as soon as I come across something I like. During the holiday season I'll keep an eye out for new styles to pick up in advance. “ Hang, Shanghai, 24 “Generally, I prefer to buy luxury items on memorable days like my birthday, it will feel more ceremonial. “ Qiying, Guangzhou, 25 “It’s a must to buy myself something on birthday, and I spend more than I normally would. “ Xueming, Beijing, 22 A spending pause
  • 17. looklook.app 39% 17% 14% 11% 5% 4% 4% 3% 3% A new handbag Fine jewelry or watch An expensive trip RTW A new pair of shoes Beauty, fragrance or cosmetics An accessory like a scarf, belt, or costume jewelry Artwork or something for home A new car Currently she prioritizes items she feels will hold value, with handbags and jewelry at the top of that list Q. At the moment, what category of luxury products do you most want to buy, and why? A spending pause
  • 18. looklook.app The enthusiasm for classic luxury handbags has NOT waned. And jewelry fits her rational “milestone” and “investment” criteria right now “I'm going to start work soon plus I have enough savings in hand, so I hope I can get a Hermès Constance. This style is more suitable for young people, stable but still exciting.” Hang, Hangzhou, 22 “Coco Handle or 19 Chanel bag! It feels very classic compared to LV, Gucci. Before the end of the year. If I still can't leave the country, then I‘ll go to Macau to buy!“ Iris, Suzhou, 25 “It may be that as you get older you gradually feel that (the right) jewellery or watch is something that is worth having for its longevity.“ Xiaoxue, Shanghai, 32 A spending pause
  • 19. looklook.app She has a wish list of coveted luxury goods … but she’s yearning to buy them abroad “Next year I must buy another Chanel bag! I want to buy a white Chanel bag next year, I hope to get it as soon as I can leave China, and I hope to run into the one that belongs to me, preferably the one with pearl clasp.“ Xiaoxue, Shanghai, 26 “Ballon Bleu by Cartier, because I feel my wrist is missing something. If I can I will buy it abroad or find a proxy shopper.“ Shijia, Suzhou, 27 “VCA's Ten Flowers Necklace. Planning to buy abroad, the price difference is quite big, haha.” Yuting, Shanghai, 32 19 Chanel CF mini Cartier Blue Balloon VCA necklace A spending pause
  • 20. looklook.app Has her definition of luxury changed? A segment of young Chinese women says “yes” I would prefer to shop for luxury abroad when travel becomes less restrictive 26% 18% 14% 14% 13% 10% 5% My definition of luxury has changed somewhat I am not less motivated to spend on luxury right now Because life has not returned to "normal" 100% here yet The government is encouraging fewer external displays of wealth Other reasons I am somewhat concerned about the economy and the future Q. Which statement best reflects why you might not be spending as much on luxury now? A spending pause
  • 21. looklook.app Those who say their definition of luxury has changed report a more pragmatic attitude towards what “luxury” means 21 “More and more I think luxury brands are a tool to quickly establish a first impression in a certain situation (business talk, networking, etc.) I think at its best, it's not a luxury for me, it's an everyday item for me.” Rongjia, Beijing, 25 “A healthy body, a relaxed and unstressed mind state and a full-blooded curiosity about the world are new luxuries I'm starting to aspire to.” Han, Shanghai, 32 “I feel that luxury goods are just something to spice up my life and improve the quality of life within my ability. Sometimes it’s more satisfying to choose to invest rather than consume.” Xiaoxue, Shanghai, 26 A spending pause
  • 22. looklook.app The woman “re-considering luxury” is considering more niche brands as a way to set herself apart “I don't see much point in overpaying for big names. I mainly go for products with nice design and not just for the brand." Nan, Shanghai, 22 “I would focus more on value retention and quality of the product. Branding is put second." Xichen, Xian, 26 “With Tiktok and live streaming platforms, luxury brand education is sinking in fast in small cities, which makes everything less unique and not luxury. I’m turning to more niche brands to distinguish my taste from public taste.” Xiaoying, Shanghai, 32 22 A spending pause
  • 23. looklook.app 1 in 10 cited the recent government crackdown on excessive shows of wealth I would prefer to shop for luxury abroad when travel becomes less restrictive 26% 18% 14% 14% 13% 10% 5% My definition of luxury has changed somewhat I am not less motivated to spend on luxury right now Because life has not returned to "normal" 100% here yet The government is encouraging fewer external displays of wealth Other reasons I am somewhat concerned about the economy and the future Q. Which statement best reflects why you might not be spending as much on luxury now? A spending pause
  • 24. looklook.app There is an inclination at the moment to “keep a low profile” “It feels like there has been a shift in the attitude of people around me, including myself, towards consuming luxury goods; people no longer consider it essential and no longer fetishize it.” Xiaonan, Shanghai, 22 “I don‘t think the impact of the epidemic will be seen anytime soon; I always feel there is a “financial crisis” behind it. Also, with the cyber violence, it's all about keeping a low profile." Ziyi, Wuxi, 25 “At work, I doesn't want to attract unwanted attention, and I feel that luxury is a consumer good caused by vanity, so I want to invest money in more valuable things.” Jing, Shenzhen, 24 24 A spending pause
  • 25. looklook.app However, a more significant group of those reporting a spending pause say it’s due to current travel restrictions I would prefer to shop for luxury abroad when travel becomes less restrictive 26% 18% 14% 14% 13% 10 5% My definition of luxury has changed somewhat I am not less motivated to spend on luxury right now Because life has not returned to "normal" 100% here yet The government is encouraging fewer external displays of wealth Other reasons I am somewhat concerned about the economy and the future Q. Which statement best reflects why you might not be spending as much on luxury now? A spending pause
  • 26. looklook.app Young luxury buyers miss the experience of shopping in Paris, London and NYC 26 “After China's border is open again, I can travel abroad and I will buy more.“ Zirung, Shanghai, 24 “When you’re traveling, you are always in a good mood, so you’ll be tempted to spend money. Plus, there are better styles and products offered abroad." Xiaochen, Shanghai, 24 “I prefer shopping abroad, because shops offer different products from the brand stores in China. Take Chanel earrings for example: even in Mainland China and Hong Kong, the products offered are very different.” Chen, Beijing, 35 A spending pause
  • 27. looklook.app She misses the tax breaks from shopping abroad 27 “Domestic prices are still ridiculously high. It is more suitable for groups with fast money. Those who make money on their own still feel that European luxury goods prices are better.“ Wenzhe, Shanghai, 33 „Personally, buying things at domestic stores without a tax refund isn't worth it. So I prefer to buy when traveling abroad because it feels like a souvenir!“ Yu, Suzhou, 25 “Price and styles in overseas stores are always better compared to the domestic ones." Hang, Shanghai, 24 A spending pause
  • 28. looklook.app 9% When probed on what her favorite way to shop for luxury is, 1 in 2 refers to shopping abroad either herself or via daigou I prefer to buy abroad because of tax reasons I prefer to buy abroad because it is a special memory and experience I prefer to have an agent buy abroad and send to me, for better selection I prefer to buy online Something else I prefer to shop locally in stores so that I can try things and consider it before buying 32% 20% 19% 12% 9% 7% 1% I prefer to buy abroad because of tax reasons I prefer to buy abroad because it is a special memory and experience I prefer to have an agent buy abroad and send to me, for better selection I prefer to buy online I prefer to direct message with a sales associate so I can get personal attention without going in store Something else A spending pause
  • 30. looklook.app I prefer to buy abroad because it is a special memory and experience I prefer to have an agent buy abroad and send to me, for better selection Something else The rise of China chic …but a number of Chinese brands are getting buzzy Western luxury brands still have huge sway Q. Which luxury brand are you coveting right at this moment? 0 5 10 15 20 25 6% 7% Chanel Porsche Cartier Hermès Gucci Tesla Tiffany Van Cleef & Arpels Louis Vuitton Céline Saint Laurent Piaget La Mer Dior Estée Lauder Off-White Stella McCartney BEAUTY FASHION CARS JEWELRY 22% 10% 9% 8% 5% 3% 1% 2% 1% 3% 3% 5% 5% 5% 5%
  • 31. looklook.app 2 of 3 young luxury buyers in China feel proud of the luxury brand innovation happening domestically 47% 19% 19% 14% 1% There is very interesting innovation happening in China at the moment I feel increasing pride in my country and our place in the world I am not more interested in Chinese luxury brands Another reason I feel less interested in Western luxury brands The rise of China chic
  • 32. looklook.app She takes pride in the “Created in China” movement 32 “I'm fascinated by the innovative ability of national products. For example, mix-match style on Li Ning's fashion show, even the shoe design are at the forefront of fashion. Also, the R&D capabilities and innovation of local brands such as NIO for new energy vehicles is mind blowing.“ Jiaxuan, Xian, 22 “There is a transformation of Made in China to Created in China, although most still can not compete with international big brands. But as a national movement, it is worth supporting and encouraging; and the national brands are full of innovation and loved by young people.“ Xiaoxue, Shanghai, 26 “Shanghai Tang retains the elements of traditional Chinese cheongsam, fabric and embroidery is the essence of China. It is an honor to be Chinese.“ Weidan, Shanghai, 30 The rise of China chic
  • 33. looklook.app She is rooting for ICICLE 之禾, a sustainable fashion brand “ICICLE's ready-to-wear is great, especially the coats and cashmere sweaters, which have the power to catch up with Max Mara!” Xiang, Beijing, 33 “More young talent is emerging. The fact is that young elite leaders of Chinese entrepreneurs have been exposed in the media that are also wearing China's outstanding clothing brands, such as ICICLE.” Xiaoying, Shanghai, 32 “Icicle 之禾! It also has a store in Paris and the textures are great.” Wenzhe, Shanghai, 33 33 Launch Date: 1997 in Shanghai Company: ICICLE Fashion Group (acquired French brand CARVEN in 2018) Channel: 250 doors in China, 1 flagship in Paris, Tmall Online Store Sales Record: Topped the Tmall 11.11 Single's Day sales record in 2020 Hero Attributes Cultural Connection Superpower: pride in global expansion The rise of China chic
  • 34. looklook.app She identifies with the creators of Shushu Tong, a brand designed by two GenY who add a twist to modern femininity “Shushu Tong's clothes are off very good design, great for young women” Yu, Shanghai, 24 34 Superpower: social media buzz “Famous for sweet and lovely girl style, ShuShu Tong is a new designer, focus on ready-to-wear, and has gain international influence, very suitable for my personal style” Xiaoxue, Shanghai, 26 I‘ve been impressed with the recent Shushu Tong craze! Shuyu LIU, Shenzhen 25 “I‘ve been impressed with the recent Shushu Tong craze online!” Shuyu, Shenzhen, 25 Style: Retro silhouettes + avant-garde Signature: Ruffles, bowties Debut Show: 2019SS Shanghai Fashion Week Hero Attributes Cultural Connection The rise of China chic
  • 35. looklook.app She considers UMA WANG a native fashion pioneer “For ready-to-wear, I prefer to choose Chinese designer labels rather than international brands. Uma Wang is my favorite Chinese designer brand in recent years.” Xin, Shanghai, 30 “UMA WANG, this local designer style is quite impressive, mixing romantic and realistic elements, dark and light, Chinese, traditional and modern codes.” Zheyi, Shanghai, 32 35 Signature: Western styles with an Eastern aesthetic focus Debut Intl Show: 2017FW Milan Fashion Week Sales Channel: 5 retail stores (Shanghai/Beijing/Chengdu) and multibrand shops in China Superpower: east/west design tension “Uma Wang! Love the brand. The clothes are a little hard to pull of but the ballerina flats are super awesome.” Xiang, Beijing, 33 Hero Attributes Cultural Connection The rise of China chic
  • 36. looklook.app NIO 蔚来– the bright future of Chinese “TESLA” is coming “Local market competitiveness. I'm optimistic. Live-stream sales and national emotion!” Meng, Shanghai, 24 “NIO. Whether it's black technology or the re-creation of traditional culture, domestic brands are listening more and more to the consumer needs and gaining more recognition” Chenchen, Shanghai, 35 “NIO. Both its range and after-sales service are good” Zizi, Shanghai, 28 36 Launch Date: 2014 in Hefei Positioning: a pioneer in China's premium electric vehicle market Movement: NIO shares surged more than 1,000% in 2020 after a capital injection of $1 billion by a state-led group of investors Superpower: attention to local needs Hero Attributes Cultural Connection The rise of China chic
  • 37. looklook.app Beauty is where Chinese brands seem to be making inroads on Western brands among young luxury buyers 34% 22% 17% 10% 8% 4% 2%2% 1% Cosmetics & Makeup Apparel Skin care Cars Shoes Jewelry Health & Wellness Fragrance Handbags Q. Among the following options, which category has the most interesting Chinese luxury brands? The rise of China chic
  • 38. looklook.app Beautiful packaging and better value are the reasons cited for interest in Chinese luxury cosmetics brands 38 “In recent years, national beauty brands have emerged a lot, and some of them can even beat international big brands in terms of packaging and design, such as Huaxizi, Mao Gepin, etc.“ Yingxue, Chengdu, 25 “In beauty I think, many national brands are very innovative, color matching and texture sometimes isn't much different from big brands and can meet the daily needs. The packaging of many national beauty brands is very good.“ Miao, Xian, 24 “Perfect Diary's eyeshadow palette has been selling really well, great value for price.“ Weidan, Shanghai, 29 The rise of China chic
  • 39. looklook.app Florasis is a buzzy cosmetics brand featuring a connection to Chinese heritage “Florasis, the fine quality of its setting power is superb. I don't think the big houses can do the same." Shiqian, Shanghai, 35 “The packaging of Florasis conveys a particularly indigenous concept, deep into the hearts of the people.” Xinyi, Shanghai, 29 “Beauty brand Florasis, so pretty! I bought eyeshadow palette but haven’t opened it because the packaging is so pretty. It’s more like a collectable item!” Xiayu, Xian, 25 39 Founded Date: 2017 in Hangzhou Ingridents: natural flower/herb essence Keyword: Oriental beauty Bestseller: Setting powder Superpower: Packaging Cultural Connection Hero Product Attributes The rise of China chic
  • 40. looklook.app We heard multiple mentions about Biohyalux, a skin care line from a Chinese biotech company “Biohyalux it is! daily essences do maintain my skin in high stability!” Yao, Shanghai, 31 “I'm quite impressed by Bloomage Biotech (the parent company of Biohyalux), it's a brand focus on R&D of skincare, and its anti-aging products performs well.” Zijun, Mianyang, 26 “The local Hyaluronic Acid from Biohyalux is easy to use, La Mer is okay for hydration, but the price is too high for its value, so I prefer Biohyalux.” Qian, Chengdu, 34 40 Launch Date: 2012 Product: Hyaluronic acid through microbial fermentation Market Share: 25% of China's hyaluronic acid fillers market Hero Product Attributes Cultural Connection Superpower: DIY medispa The rise of China chic
  • 41. looklook.app QUADHA is a C-derma phenomenon “In fact, the products that are developed by biotech companies such as Bloomage Biotech and Voolga are quite good in quality!” Ying, Shanghai, 31 “QUADHA. The skin feels refreshing, and it is advertised to be more suitable for Asian skin, although I don't feel a lot of difference. Overall, it feels good.” Xueming, Beijing, 22 “Proper ingredients, conscientious formula, expert support, high performance, live-streaming and marketing channel combo with promotion and discounts. It's hard not to be popular.” Xiaoying, Shanghai, 32 41 Launch Date: 2018 Product: Premium clinical brand developed by Bloomage Biotech Patent: 5D hyaluronic acid technology Channel: live-stream-enabled sales by top KOL Austin Li Product Attributes Cultural Connection Superpower: KOL savvy The rise of China chic
  • 42. looklook.app Mao Geping is a Chinese legendary make-up guru with a popular line “Mao Geping - very popular domestic makeup expert!” Xiaoxue, Shanghai, 26 “Mao Geping! It’s a brand with very strong Chinese characteristics and aesthetics.” Wenyi, Suzhou, 22 “Mao Gepin (cosmetic brand), easy to use, simplistic, and suitable for Chinese skin and temperament, with low key tones.” Yao, Shanghai, 28 42 Superpower: knowing their customers Product Attributes Cultural Connection The rise of China chic
  • 43. looklook.app For jewelry, Cartier and Tiffany lead in terms of strongest desire 0 10 20 30 “I prefer Tiffany, the designs are more thoughtful and innovative. They always catch my eye.” Yaqing, Nanjing, 21 Cartier Tiffany Chow Tai Fook Cindy Chao Van Cleef & Arpels Qeelin Bulgari Charlene Classic He Fang Jewelry Graff Harry Winston Chopard Gerard Chin’s Jewelry DR Ring12.5 “The Chinese jewelry brand is Chow Tai which is more of a traditional Chinese style. Buying foreign brands is more about the brand names. People in love or getting married expect to have Tiffany or Cartier.“ Tao, Shanghai, 31 Q. At the moment, which luxury jewelry brand is your favorite and why? (open-ended) ”I prefer international brands like Cartier; it’s classic.“ Zheyi, Shanghai, 32 …luxury jewelry brands preference 55% Western 14% Native 31% No preference The rise of China chic
  • 44. looklook.app Many told us they will buy fashion jewelry locally but save fine jewelry purchases for international brands 44 “I prefer international jewelry brands. International brands each have their own style, highly unlikely to see someone else wearing the same design.” Zizi, Shanghai, 28 “I still prefer foreign luxury brands; local jewelry brands don't have anything that pops.“ Shijia, Suzhou, 27 “Local fashion jewelry brand design is not bad. If you want to buy premium jewelry, you will choose Tiffany and Cartier, which are easy to buy, the design is good, and the after-sales service offers more of a guarantee.” Xin, Shanghai, 30 The rise of China chic
  • 45. looklook.app Cindy Chao feels like a very “in the know” luxury brand at the moment “The previous Cindy Chao exhibition in Shanghai was very mind blowing” Ying, Shanghai, 30 “Cindy Chao's fine jewelry is more of an artistic jewelry brand, each piece represents not only the designer's inspiration, skills and heartfelt perceptions, and the work is very touching to the heart” Han, Shanghai, 32 Superpower: emotion “Cindy Chao, frankly speaking, is less popular than other big names above, but the designs are unique and high-end, and the brand is highly recognized in the jewelry field.” Yuhan, Shanghai, 35 45 Attributes Cultural Connection The rise of China chic
  • 46. looklook.app They go to Chow Sang Sang or Chow Tai Fook for gold stackables “You go to Chow Tai Fook or Chow Sang Sang for gold products and get diamond jewelry from Tiffany and Cartier.” Xiaoya, Beijing, 31 Superpower: product placement 46 “In recent years, Chow Tai Fook has cooperated with TV drama marketing and now almost every shopping mall has I DO brand and Chow Tai Fook.” Xiaoxue, Shanghai, 26 “Chow Tai Fook's styles have become more and more attractive in recent years, and gold is more valuable with higher investment value.” Kehan, Tianjin, 21 Attributes Cultural Connection The rise of China chic
  • 47. looklook.app 47 The unmet need for social, virtual luxury
  • 48. looklook.app We shared the concept of virtual fashion with young Chinese luxury buyers Imagine using AI and your own measurement data to create a “Virtual Double” to rent or buy luxury fashion. You could also use your Virtual Double to try on luxury brands in physical stores instead of having to go to the store to try them on. The items on the website are designed by the maisons and are supplied in limited quantities. Of course, you can also share your fashion character image on your social platforms. The unmet need for social, virtual luxury
  • 49. looklook.app She LOVES the concept of a Virtual Double - it’s gaming meets fashion Q. Which of the following statements best reflects your view of the "virtual fashion experience” described here? Why? Virtual fashion would allow me to try on items without going in-store, and I would love that option 27% 21% 18% 13% 13% 6% 2% I am intrigued with the idea of virtual fashion because the world is increasingly digitized I support the idea of virtual fashion because it would drastically reduce the carbon footprint of the fashion industry It would be fun to share "virtual" looks on social media with my friends. The idea of virtual fashion is not appealing to me. I only want to have fashion I can wear in person. Something else I think it would be fun to have a "Virtual Double" I can use to try on lots of different looks The unmet need for social, virtual luxury
  • 50. looklook.app The Virtual Double concept sounds fun and trendy. It also avoids having to venture into luxury boutiques (which can be intimidating) “Haven't used it but looking forward to it!" Yifan, Suzhou, 22 “I think the idea is interesting because it fits the current trend, but it’s hard o imagine the actual application.” Shuyu, Suzhou, 22 “Some luxury stores do judge people by their appearances. Online shopping completely avoids such situations, and one can shop without leaving the comfort of home and sharing on social media is fun!” Yiwen, Xian, 23 The unmet need for social, virtual luxury
  • 51. looklook.app However, the pure entertainment value also comes through clearly to them as well, with many referencing gaming or playing with virtual try-on apps “It sounds like an "animal forest". It's fun and you can try different styles of styling.“ Xin, Shanghai, 30 “A lot of brands are starting to offer virtual image, for trying-on things, I can try different mix and match on them, and share the looks on social media, although I don't know how to use it well.” Shiqian, Shanghai, 35 “Some photo apps allow you to change your hairstyle.” Lei, Sichuan, 21 The unmet need for social, virtual luxury
  • 52. looklook.app Women are eager for a leap forward in UX “I really like this format. Having experienced the Goddess Closet app 6 months ago, it's refreshing, but it would be even better if I could reconfigure the 3D AI avatar based on my body size!” Chenchen, Shanghai, 35 “Overall, the points of reduced carbon footprint and easy try- on experience are interesting. Although previous Tiffany's virtual try on experience and MAC’s lipstick virtual try on, are not very effective as I thought.“ Zijun, Mianyang, 26 “I think the idea is interesting because he fits the current trend. But still no way to imagine the actual application. (Like how realistic it would be?).” Dan, Beijing, 26 The unmet need for social, virtual luxury
  • 53. looklook.app Young luxury buyers overwhelmingly shop with friends in China, but have not found ways to do so online VS Online Shop with Friends Shop Alone 20% 80% In Store Shop with Friends Shop Alone 77% 23% The unmet need for social, virtual luxury
  • 54. looklook.app This preference for having social input while browsing luxury points to a significant opportunity for digital platforms that create a sense of comfort and fun The unmet need for social, virtual luxury • I can take my time with no pressure from salespeople • Better assortment “In a physical store you might feel embarrassed when you take too long to buy something, but that doesn't happen with online shopping.” Hsueh Wen, Shanghai, 26 Benefits of shopping online • Get friend’s opinion about the product • Fun experience (fitting together) • A way of hanging-out and getting to know more about each other • Avoid embarrassment of talking to SA’s by yourself “Girls shopping together can offer each other advice, and with lots of clothes in brick-and-mortar stores, you can take several pieces to the fitting room at one go and find the style that suits you best." Tao, Shanghai, 30 Benefits of shopping with friends “It's not embarrassing if I have company.” Wenyi, Suzhou, 22
  • 55. looklook.app 1 in 4 prefers shopping either online, via text or by daigou for broader assortment, indicating a segment that could be attracted by the concept of online access 9% I prefer to buy abroad because of I prefer to buy abroad because it memory and experience I prefer to have an agent buy abr me, for better selection I prefer to buy online Something else I prefer to shop locally in stores so that I can try things and consider it before buying 32% 20% 19% 12% 9% 7% 1% I prefer to buy abroad because of tax reasons I prefer to buy abroad because it is a special memory and experience I prefer to have an agent buy abroad and send to me, for better selection I prefer to buy online I prefer to direct message with a sales associate so I can get personal attention without going in store Something else The unmet need for social, virtual luxury
  • 57. The rise of China chic • In beauty, consider partnering with talent in China for experiences, product innovation or package design to harness growing national pride. • Explore collaborations with young Chinese RTW talent. • Consider sources of creative inspiration for jewelry that echo Chinese tradition and culture. The unmet need for social, virtual luxury • Invest in virtual try-on technology where she can use her digital double to explore items. • Consider creating virtual environments where she can shop with friends without leaving her home. • Achieving higher levels of status through gaming is familiar and motivating to her; elements of achievement through spending could spur loyalty in new ways. A spending pause • Life without the pleasure of going abroad to shop does not feel normal to the young Chinese luxury buyer. Expect a huge demand for luxury fashion in Western cities once restrictions are lifted. • She will indulge around her personal milestones – following up with her on birthdays, national holidays and bonus season with personal outreach will pay dividends. looklook.app Takeaways
  • 58. looklook.app Jia (Lynn) LIN Marketing Analyst Lynn is a native of Shanghai and cut her teeth in retail merchandising at Tod’s and LVMH-owned Stella McCartney. She graduated 2020 from ESSEC’s Luxury Program in Paris and is LookLook’s key analyst for the Chinese market. Malinda Sanna CEO Malinda founded LookLook after working both client-side and at several NYC branding agencies. LookLook is an insights platform that brings the intimacy of one-on-one dialogue to people around the world, preparing environments for deep listening and observation. For more information contact malinda@looklook.app