From the Smithsonian Lecture: "Cultural Capitals of Former East Germany." Leipzig, the city of Bach, Mendelssohn, and the Gewandhaus, also played a significant role in the demonstrations that led to the fall of the Iron Curtain and the reunification of Germany.

1. 1
From the Smithsonian
Lecture: “Cultural
Capitals of Former East
Germany”

2. Leipzig
NordNordWest (CC BY-SA
3.0)
What springs to
mind for many
people when they
hear the name
“Leipzig”?

3. 3
The composer J.S.
Bach is likely the first
name to be given. The
composer Felix
Mendelssohn or
Leipzig’s famous
concert hall, the
Gewandhaus, may also
be mentioned.
bieldelcw (CC BY-
SA 3.0)
http://bit.ly/16osvy
M
Carol Reynolds (CC BY-SA 3.0) http://professorcarol.com

4. 4
But fewer people are
likely to point to the
East German political
police – the “Stasi.”
And even fewer will
mention the
Montagsdemonstration
en (Monday
Demonstrations) or
name Leipzig as home
of the movement to
reunify Germany. Yet,
each of these is an
important part of
Leipzig’s story.
Bundesarchiv, Bild 183-1990-0922-002 / CC-BY-SA http://bit.ly/1wT9IHH

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Bach came to Leipzig in 1723 and
spent the last 27 years of his life there.
It was his final “station” or site of
employment, and perhaps his most
important. It certainly was his longest.
Many of the general associations we
have of Bach stem from this period.
He was hired as music director of the
principal churches and Cantor of the
boys’ school at the St. Thomas Church.
Portrait of J.S. Bach
Elias Gottlob Haussmann

6. 6
Perhaps the most
beautiful of the
churches Bach served
was St. Nicholas
Church with its unusual
décor based on the
palm-shaped capitals.
This church would play
a critical role centuries
later in bringing an end
to Communism in East
Germany.
Appaloosa (CC BY-SA 2.0) http://bit.ly/1DBTWnM

7. 7
The St. Thomas Church (Thomaskirche)
is the church most people associate with
Bach’s career in Leipzig. Not only is he
now buried there, but one of the
magnificent stained glass windows
incorporates his portrait into the center.
Also here he directed the world-
renowned Leipzig St. Thomas Boys’
Choir (Thomanerchor), which traces its
roots back to 1212. His work at this
school is well documented and has much
in common with duties of the present-day
cantor.
Zarafa (CC BY-SA 3.0) http://bit.ly/1H95meX

8. 8
The Statue of Bach outside the St.
Thomas Church is a popular spot for
visitors. It was created in 1908 by Leipzig
artist Carl Seffner who gave Bach a
turned-out coat pocket to symbolize a
paycheck far too low to support Bach’s
large family.
Zarafa (CC BY-SA 3.0) http://bit.ly/1v9e86Y

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A particularly poignant church in
Leipzig stood outside of Bach’s
direct administrative control. It was
founded as a Dominican Cloister in
1409 and rededicated as the
Paulinerkircher by Luther himself in
1545.
In Bach’s day, St. Paul’s Church had
one of the best organs around. On
occasion he played and led special
services there.
Das Furstenhaus und die Paulinerkirche in Leipzig um 1710 http://bit.ly/1zJc6ju

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Before World War II, the church stood in
good condition next to the University of
Leipzig, opposite the long façade of the
royal palace.
During the war, the entire square
(Augustusplatz) was bombed, and yet the
Paulinerkirche survived.
This was seen as a miracle for Leipzig.
Deutsche Fotothek (CC BY-SA 2.0) http://bit.ly/1xw8q5f

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Yet, in one of the saddest chapters of
Leipzig’s history, the church became a
victim of politics under the East German
Communists. Over enormous world-wide
protests and amidst great anguish of the
Leipzig people, the Paulinerkirche was
dynamited in 1968. A monument to Karl
Marx was erected on the site.
After the Fall of Communism in 1989 (Die
Wende), Leipzigers were divided about
whether to restore the original historical
structure, build an architecturally modern
church, or use the space for other
purposes.
Karl Marx Relief. Dsa66503 (CC BY-NC-SA 2.0) http://bit.ly/13xkBl2

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Ultimately, after
competition among
radically different
designs, an ultra-
modern concept was
chosen. It preserves the
original Paulinerkirche
in position and size, but
was cast in striking
panels of glass. It is
harmoniously unified
with the façade of the
rebuilt University of
Leipzig’s main building.
Polybert49 (CC BY-SA 2.0) http://bit.ly/1Anls4C

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Quite a different aspect
of Leipzig’s “Bach
Identity” has to do with
the new Coffee Culture.
Leipzig was a prime spot
during Bach’s lifetime for
the new Coffee Houses.
According to one legend,
coffee was introduced to
Europe when it was
found in the abandoned
Turkish camps following
the Siege of Vienna,
1683.
Professor Carol

14. 14
The love of this new beverage spread like wildfire,
and trendy establishments sprang up wherever
coffee was sold. The most prominent coffee house
in Bach’s time, Zimmermann’s, was linked both to
concerts of the Collegium Musicum and to Bach’s
jolly composition known as “The Coffee Cantata.”
Engraving by Georg Schreiber

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“If I couldn't, three times a day,
be allowed to drink my little
cup of coffee, in my anguish I
will turn into a shriveled-up
roast goat.”
Christian Friedrich Henrici,
librettist
Coffee Cantata, BWV 211, 1732-35
Keenan Browe (CC BY-SA 2.0) http://bit.ly/1CwHAsD

16. 16
Zimmermann’s was not rebuilt after the
bombing in World War II, but another
historic coffee house Zum arabische Coffe
Baum, has survived and become a cultural
landmark for Leipzigers. In addition to great
coffee and sumptuous pastries, it features
a charming coffee museum in its upper
floors.
Appaloosa (CC BY-SA 3.0) http://bit.ly/1ACxFAA

17. 17
Mendelssohn (1809-1847) came to
Leipzig in 1835 to be the conductor of
the city’s famous Gewandhaus
Orchestra. For the remainder of his life,
he built this organization through
visionary ideas about conducting and
sheer hard work.
His name will always be linked to Leipzig
and to the music of this city.

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When Mendelssohn arrived, concerts were
being given in a commercial building known
as the Gewandhaus (Trading House for
Cloth Merchants) built in 1781. Here Mozart
performed once, and Liszt, Berlioz, and
Wagner would also conduct.
Watercolor by Felix Mendelssohn (1836)

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The orchestra outgrew
this venue and a new
hall was built by the
architect Martin Gropius
(famous later for the
architectural school
known as the
Bauhaus). It opened in
1884.
Postcard c. 1900-1910

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After the destruction of
the Second Gewandhaus
in World War II, a
grandiose modern hall
opened in 1981.
Incorporating striking
facets of Socialist
architecture, the guiding
spirit of the third
Gewandhaus was
conductor Kurt Mazur
who would later become
an outspoken supporter
of German unity.
Professor Carol

21. 21
At night, a fantastic
mural called the Song
of Life (Gesang vom
Leben) by Sighard Gille
can be seen across the
square. It serves as a
dramatic backdrop as
streams of concert-
goers arrive.
Dierk Schäfer (CC BY 2.0) http://bit.ly/1E3FDZh

22. 22
Mendelssohn’s last
residence is a large,
graceful apartment in
classic Biedermeier
design.
Geisler Marin (CC BY-SA 2.0) http://bit.ly/1DST1iL

23. 23
You can see excellent
examples of
Biedermeier furnishings
throughout the
apartment.
Mendelssohn’s work
room is a special
highlight of the visit.
Andreas Praefcke (CC BY-SA 2.5) http://bit.ly/1r9pZpn

24. 24
Perhaps the
best reflection of
Biedermeier style is
found in his wife
Cecile's sitting room.
We can imagine her
warm smile as she
seated her guests.
Professor Carol

25. 25
The atmosphere in
Mendelssohn’s House
reminds us of a most
beloved painter of the
same era, Carl
Spitzweg.
His paintings reflect
simple daily scenes and
intimate moments in
domestic life.
Die arme Poet (1839)

26. 26
Leipzig needed
much rebuilding
after World War II.
Although
liberated by US
troops, Leipzig was
given to Soviet
forces in 1945 and
became a key city
in East Germany (the
Deutsche
Demokratische
Republik).
Deutsche Fotothek (CC BY-SA 3.0) http://bit.ly/1AzNeuN

27. 27
The East German Secret Police was an
insidious and omnipresent organization
from 1950 until the end of Communism. It
was known as the Stasi, or, officially, the
Ministry for State Security or
Staatssicherheitsdienst (SSD).
jgaray (CC BY-SA 3.0) http://bit.ly/1JJOVtM

28. 28
While similar to the
better-known KGB, the
Stasi employed an even
higher ratio of
informants and these
people often turned out
to be relatives and
friends of people who
had no idea they were
being watched.
Hajothu (CC BY 3.0) http://bit.ly/1CfzBjD

29. 29
The small museum
known as the Museum
Runde Ecke offers
visitors the chance to
experience Leipzig’s
Stasi headquarters.
You’ll also find the
antiquated spy
technology both quaint
and chilling.
Appaloosa (CC BY-SA 3.0) http://bit.ly/1CfzWmo

30. 30
When Communism fell
in East Germany,
citizens tore into this
building, seeking to find
their personal records
among the millions of
papers and learn
whether they had been
spied upon. The sight
of documents blowing
out into the street
became an iconic
image of this
tumultuous period.
Bundesarchiv, Bild 183-1990-0116-114 / CC-BY-SA http://bit.ly/1v9lKWp

31. 31
After visiting the Runde
Ecke, try to visit the
exhibit known as
Zeitgeschichtliches Forum
Leipzig (Forum for
Contemporary History). It
opened in 1999 and entry
is free. It presents the
history of Germany’s
division, an overview of
the DDR period, the story
of the demonstrations that
led to the tearing down of
the Wall, and the story of
Reunification.
Appaloosa (CC BY-SA 3.0) http://bit.ly/13LaYA5

32. 32
Outside of this museum
you’ll find Der
Jahrhundertschritt (The
Century Step), a
striking monument
designed by Wolfgang
Mattheuer (1927-2004)
and erected in 1984 as
a dramatic symbol of
resistance to Fascism
and all forms of
dictatorship.
Professor Carol

33. 33
In 1989, prayer
meetings began to be
held on Monday
evenings. The central
church for these was
one of Bach’s: the St.
Nikolai Kirche.
Sermons, hymns,
prayers, and speeches
drew increasingly big
crowds. The police
were unable to contain
the momentum.
Appaloosa (CC BY-SA 2.0) http://bit.ly/1DBTWnM

34. 34
The momentum
demanding
dissolution of the
Wall and
Reunification was
felt everywhere in
East Germany, but
was particularly
intense in Leipzig.
Bundesarchiv, Bild 183-1990-0922-002 / CC-BY-SA http://bit.ly/1wT9IHH

35. 35
Quickly Leipzig
sprang to the
forefront of the
new era.
The tone was set
in part by
Leipzig’s Kunst
im öffentlichen
Raum or Art in
Public Spaces.
Sculpture: Unzeitgemäßen Zeitgenossen by Bernd Göbel, 1986-89. Photo: Professor Carol

36. 36
Leipzig drew from its past as a Free Trade City
and Market Center and began building a strong
commercial center.
The beautiful central train station was
refurbished and an attractive modern shopping
mall was added.
Polybert49 (CC BY-SA 2.0) http://bit.ly/13mwIRD

37. 37
Leipzig was filled once again with
bustling commerce. A beautiful
new arcade was built in the
historic trade passage that stood
over the famous spot known as
Auerbach’s Keller. This
underground pub (and large
restaurant today) is the site where
Goethe placed the action of a key
scene in Faust.
Appaloosa (CC BY-SA 3.0) http://bit.ly/1r9q1xB

38. 38
Leipzig built upon its history as a Messestadt (Trade Fair City) and crafted a
beautiful new Fair Grounds. Its famous annual book fair is the second largest
in Germany, after Frankfurt’s.
Alexander Mitew (CC BY 3.0) http://bit.ly/1JwMc6K

39. 39
Leipzig’s elegant past
can be felt in many
places today, including
the art nouveau shop
Ricochet and the cafes
around the beautifully
restored Baroque Stock
Exchange.
jaime.silva (CC BY-NC-ND 2.0) http://bit.ly/1ACMdQG

40. 40
Old and new, tragic and
victorious, Leipzig is
alive today, filled with
student life and cultural
activities and the
promise of the future.
Lutz536 (CC BY-NC 2.0) http://bit.ly/1wVrUND

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