Curso/CTR Travel Writing Reisejournalismus: Berlin Bearings


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Berlin is one mental metropolis that you will never want to leave. Refusing to hide from its past and always striving towards a better future, the entirely unique history (the Wars, the Nazis, the Wall, the influx of immigrants and hippies, the rise of techno
and the rule of the creative industry) sets it so far apart from other European cities.
All it takes is one short walk and it feels like you are travelling in a time machine.
Team CTR Berlin

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Curso/CTR Travel Writing Reisejournalismus: Berlin Bearings

  1. 1. 1 BBBeneath Berlin. A Beginner’s Guide to the German Capital. dowlaod E-Book:
  2. 2. 2 3 Edited by: Lorcan James, Phoebe Inglis-Holmes, Dom Walker and Andrew Jackson. Designed by: Katie Griffiths, Alexander Richards and Qing Wu. Written by: Stuart Blythe, Giorgia Masiello, Alicia Ramirez, Christina Powis, Rachel Nolan, Rhiannon Edwards, Katie Griffiths, Alexander Richards, Qing Wu, Lorcan James, Phoebe Inglis- Holmes, Dom Walker and Andrew Jackson. BB Beneath Berlin A Beginner’s Guide to the German Capital
  3. 3. 4 52 Section key. Symbol key. -Editor’s Crown- About Berlin. Attraction Reviews. -Sights and Monuments- -Art and Museums- -Outdoors- -Food and drink- -Nightlife- -Shopping- -Entertainment- -Accommodation- Contents. This symbol indicates that our crack teams of eaters, drinkers, party goers and art critics have chosen the crowned article as truly the best of Berlin. -Bargain Birdsong- This symbol indicates when something is best for a budget without compromising on quality - it essentially appears when good things are going cheap. Neighbourhoods > pp. 7-11 Berlin Timeline > pp. 12-15 Survival Guide > pp. 16-23 Language Tips > pp. 24-25 Beers of Berlin > pp. 26-27 Ampelmann > pp. 28-29 Getting Around > pp. 30-33 Sights and Monuments > pp. 34-58 Art and Museums > pp. 59-83 Outdoors > pp. 84-104 Food and Drink > pp. 105-132 Nightlife > pp. 133-145 Shopping > pp. 146-155 Entertainment > pp. 156-163 Accommodation > pp. 164-171
  4. 4. 6 7 Neighbourhoods. Berlin is one mental metropolis that you will never want to leave. Refusing to hide from its past and always striving towards a better future, the entirely unique history (the Wars, the Nazis, the Wall, the influx of immigrants and hippies, the rise of techno and the rule of the creative industry) sets it so far apart from other European cities. All it takes is one short walk and it feels like you are travelling in a time machine. From Prussian palaces and derelict warehouses, to fascist bunkers, communist blocks and Post-modern skyscrapers; this fast-paced city is full of paradox, with a skyline that changes as fast its weather. Homeofthedonerkebabandcurrywusrt,for little money you can eat and drink like a king and still have the cash to hit up a nightclub. With over 170 museums, 600 galleries, three opera houses, scores of theatres and plenty of space to play in, it makes sense that every young aspiring artist in the world is moving here. This phenomenal cultural landscape is setting trends like New York in the 80s. It’s a rainbow mash-up of diverse cultural elements, it’s wild and vivacious, “poor but sexy”. Berlin is a playground where “anything goes”. Introduction. Welcome to Berlin. It may be 10 times the size of Paris, but its key areas are pleasantly compact and the excellent public transport system makesiteasytogetfromAtoB.Theopen space and multiple parks make it one of the greenest cities in the world and you can walk without fear during the night. We have divided the city into smaller, more digestible areas to make your life easier. Take a stroll through the tranquil and elegant streets of CHARLOT- TENBERG. Party hard in FRIED- RICHSHAIN, or hang with the hipsters in KREUZBERG. Sightsee in MITTE and bar-hop in NEUKOLLN. Explore the art scene in PRENZLAUERBERG or shop till you drop in SCHÖNEBERG. Each one of these neighbourhoods has its own unique charm and atmosphere and collectively they compose the Berlin that we know and love. -Rachel Nolan-
  5. 5. 8 9 Neighbourhoods. Friedrichshain is a dynamic district of Berlin that has been in vogue since the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989. Swarming with hipsters and pleasure seekers makingthemostofthelivelynightscene, it has a contagious buzz that ensures this corner of Berlin is never quiet. Alluring open spaces can be found on the periphery of Friedrichs- hain, including the outdoor East Side Gallery (the longest remaining section of the Berlin Wall) as well as the popular, BBQ-friendly Volkspark. Well connected to Berlin’s public transport network, take the S-Bahn, U-Bahn or a tram to Warschauer Straße, Ostkreuz, Frankfurter Allee or Frankfurter Tor. -Dom Walker- Friedrichshain Kreuzberg Occupied by the Americans after WWII, Kreuzberg is now very much about the present and less about the past. Sixty years ago, this district in southeast Berlin was derelict and largely in ruins. The rock bottom cost of living resulted in a huge influx of Turks, students and artists, and since the area has evolved to become Berlin’s coolest district with the best kebabs. Popular with a young, bohemian crowd, the area is home to Oranianstraße that is lined withcheapplacestostay,quirkycafes,andtrendy bars to visit after dark. The influence held by local artists is made clear by the abundance of street art and graffiti that often coats entire buildings. Visitorscantakeadvantageofthearea’sproximity to the River Spree by visiting Badeschiff by day (meaning ‘boat ship’, an outdoor swimming pool that is moored in the river) and Club der Visionaere by night. For those less hedonistic, the Jewish Museum and the Freidrichs- hain-Kreuzberg Museum are exceptionally informative and easily accessible. -Dom Walker- The Western district of Charlot- tenburg has a slightly less alter- native feel than most other areas of Berlin, and attracts a distinctly older crowd. Schloss Charlotten- burg is the district’s main draw for tourists, with its opulent décor and pleasant gardens that teem with visitors on warm summer afternoons. There are also many museums nearby, in addition to the well-known stadium that hosted the 1936 Berlin Olympics. The calm, leafy streets argu- ably retain some of Berlin’s pre-war grandeur and are definitely worth a visit, even if they lack some of the edgi- ness found elsewhere in Berlin. -Christina Powis- Charlottenberg
  6. 6. 10 11 Neighbourhoods. Although undeniably wild, the party central areas of Kreuzberg and Frie- drichshain have started to become too ‘on the map’ for those who want to discover the hidden areas of Berlin. Neukölln is one of those areas. Previously a haven for the immigrants of the city, this neighbourhood is starting to spread its multicultural wings and soar spectacularly to the top of the hipster charts. Tree lined cobbled pavements in cutesy, suburban-look- ing streets camouflage undeniably awesome secret places. Down hidden lanes, Sudanese restaurants and shisha bars are snuggled next to chic vintage boutiques and record-stores-come- clubs. Cool-kid paradise can be found in a rooftop bar above the Arkaden. NeuköllnisalsoborderedbyTempelhof Park – an abandoned airport now transformed into the local chill-out zone. By taking the S-Bahn to Tempelhof or Neukölln, or the U-Bahn to Rathaus Neukölln or Karl Marx Straβe, this is a place where getting lost is the best option to find your way. -Phoebe Inglis- Holmes- Neukölln district Prenzlauer Berg Located in the southern part of the borough Pankow - Prenzlauer Berg, or Prenzl’berg, is a tranquil escape from its hustling, sight-filled, tourist heavy neighbour, Mitte. It luckily avoided much of the bombing of WWII, so there are plenty of picturesque churches and lovely old townhouses to be seen. Boulevards, boutiques and Berlin’s oldest beer garden; it has come a long way from its East German days and working class routes. It is now one of the most desirable places to live for trendy young families. HometoBerlin’sbiggestfleamarketatMauerpark, an abundance of other parks, and several weekly street markets like the organic food market in the gorgeous Kollowitzplatz, it is the perfect place to shop, stroll, café-hop and people watch. -Rachel Nolan- Mitte Mitte is the central district of Berlin and houses most of the important historical sites in the city. Stretching from Alexander- platz over Museum Island and out to the Brandenburg Gate while visiting Berlin it would be more difficult not to go into Mitte at some point. Mitte is far grander than most of the other districts of Berlin and the prices here reflect it. Although it may not be the place to stay for a low budget backpacker its prettiness and grandeur mean it really is an unmissable sector of the German Capital. -Alexander Richards-
  7. 7. 12 13 1740 – The Age of Enlighten- ment begins with the crown- ing of Friedrich I’s grandson ‘Frederick the Great’, being a leader of this movement in Germany. He introduced legal reforms, arts and a new culture to Berlin. 1237 – The year Berlin was founded, rising from two smaller communities that are on op- posite sides of the Spree River. Back then, Berlin was separate from another neighbouring mer- chant town called Cölln, which formed together as the city we know today. Start of Berlin. 1389 – The towns of Branden- burg and Berlin form a union which increases the towns’ trading status and led to them joining the Hanseatic League (a trade group of market towns that dominated the northern European coast). 1411 – Friedrich II established a court in the town. The locals were opposed to this as they thought it would finish the town’s independence, creating the first major royal presence there. The Stadtschloss (Berlin Palace) was also built soon after which became the main royal residence until the 1950s when it was demolished. 1517 – The beginning of the Protestant Reformation hits Europe, starting in Germany by Martin Luther. This changes the religious landscape of Eu- rope, making the first steps to break away from Catholicism. 1648 – The end of the Thirty Years War rocks Berlin, leav- ing it in ruins with murders, disease and starvation. 1701 – The Kingdom of Prus- sia is formed by the self-pro- claimed ‘King in Prussia’ Friedrich I (III). At its height, it comprised of Germany, Belgium, Denmark, Lithua- nia, Poland and parts Russia. Berlin is the royal centre of this kingdom 1806 – Prussia is defeated by Napoleon. He marched through the Brandenburg Gate and took ‘the Quadri- ga’ that adorns the top of the Victory Column to mark the beginning of his three year occupancy of Berlin. French troops take control of the city. 1809 – Napoleon is defeated and the statue is returned to its rightful place in 1814. 1838 – The industrial revolu- tion is in full effect with the creation of the first rail track from Berlin to Potsdam. 1871 – The German Empire was born as King Wilhelm is crowned Kaiser in Versailles along with Otto von Bismark, who was named Iron Chancel- lor. Berlin is made the imperial capital. 1875 – The Social Democratic Party of Germany is created. 1914 – World War I begins after the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand who was the heir to the Austrian throne. The German Empire was one of the key players , beginning the first major invasion of France. Ber- liners believed victory would be theirs. 1918 – Germany is defeated in World War I in which over 1.5 million soldiers lost their lives. The Kingdom of Prussia is dissolved and Kaiser Wilhelm II abdicates the throne. Berlin is at threat of civil war. 1933 – Adolf Hitler becomes Chancellor of Germany, leading him to create a dictatorship with his Nazi government. Jewish people were targeted by a law stating that all Jewish businesses should be boycotted in Berlin. Timeline of Berlin’s History
  8. 8. 14 15 1942 – The Nazis decide to rid Europe of Jews, homosexuals and gypsies, which will come to be known as the Holocaust. Six million people died in concentration camps, including ones such as Sachsenhausen near Berlin. 1939 – Germany invades Po- land setting in motion World War II. 1945 – Germany is defeated in the war; the UK, USA, France and the Soviet Union occupy Germany, including Berlin, which is split into different sections for each allied coun- try. The city itself is left in ruin after damage from the war. Neighbourhoods are reduced to rubble and half of its buildings are destroyed. Divided Kingdom 1949 – Germany, including Berlin, is split in half, turning into the city into two separate states. The two different po- litical parties are The Federal Republic of Germany in West Berlin and the Soviet controlled German Democratic Republic (GDR) in East Berlin. 1961 – The Berlin Wall is con- structed by the GDR, as rela- tions are tense between the two states. The space in between the wall is labelled ‘the death strip’, as guard towers, land mines and soldiers are on site at all times. 200 people died when trying to escape. The USA and the Soviet Union face off at Checkpoint Charlie. 1990 – Allied countries leave their occupation zones in Ber- lin, and East Germany is dis- solved. Berlin is made capital of the country once again. 1989 – 500,000 people protest in Alexanderplatz for political reform as many East Berliners defect to the West. As soon as the decision to lift travel re- strictions between the borders is made, thousands of people descend on the border, leading to the destruction of the wall and a unified Berlin. Unification 2013 – Berlin is currently a city of high culture with praise for its art, fashion, media and po- litical movements. It is current- ly the second most populated city in the EU with a popula- tion of over three million. -Stuart Blythe- Timeline of Berlin’s History
  9. 9. 16 17 Berlin Survivor’s Guide. Berlin Survivor’s Guide. 3: Free Walking Tours If you are on a tight budget and want an informative and comprehensive tour of the city, then one of the many walking tours that take place throughout the day will be suitable. Usually you book your place online then gather at an agreed meeting point. Recommended tours include Sandmans, New Europe Berlin and the Brewers Berlin Tour. 2: Merlin Combi-Tickets For some of Berlin’s top attractions such as The Berlin Dungeon, Sea Life Berlin, Legoland Discovery Centre and Madame Tussads, combination tickets can be bought onlinemakingasavingofupto40€. en/book-tickets/combi-tickets. aspx If you prefer less walking, then the number 100 and 200 buses are perfect for you. These buses stop and go through all the major tourist attractions, from Alex- anderplatz to Bahnof Zoo, the Victory Column and Postdamer Platz. Day tickets are priced from 6.50€ and can also be used on U-Bahns, S-Bahns and Trams. A great purchase for someone arriving into Berlin and wanting to see as many museums as possible, the three day Museum pass will be right up your street. For three consecutive days you can go to 50 of Berlin’s museums for just 24€, which is a massive saving compared to the individual cost price of each museum. You can buy the pass on the visit Berlin website: museum-pass-berlin 1: Multi-Museum Passes 4: The 100 and 200 Buses
  10. 10. 172 1731 Drawn to Berlin for its history, Andrew Jack- son soon found himself surrounded by Ber- lin’s street food. His writing prowess and researching ability ensured no food establish- ment was left without a review. Extremely hard working as a writer, deter- mined to be a German speaker and ideal for a good chat or a great laugh on a night out, Journalism Graduate Stuart Blythe is the gay best friend you’ve always wanted. Don’t underestimate low key Lorcan James; while he may question every rule of the Ger- man language, he is now a fully converted Berlin night owl with regular appearances at the Berghain. Appearing reserved and quiet, this Italian girl is secretly intelligent. So secret she might belong in the FBI. Beware of Giorgia when you write anything in Italian, French or German she will correct your every error. With her cheerful and sunny personality and her extreme good German, you could not ask for a better travel companion to discover Ber- lin. Directly from Oxford, here you are Chris- tina! Whether it’s with her early morning runs, her flair for journalism or her relentless party- ing, Phoebe Inglis-Holmes is an inexhaustible Scottish machine who you definitely want on your team. With a contagious lust for life, natural creative flair and a remarkable passion for travel, ver- satile Rhiannon Edwards is perfectly suited to travel journalism. Her worldly experience has given her an astute sense of judgement. She’s a friend and an inspiration to us all. Dom Walker is a dancing machine. Hitting ev- ery club in the city, every day of the week, no- one can rival his determination to disco. Effortlessly cool, Rachel Nolan is someone who Katie Griffiths would like to party with, and if that’s not a compliment I don’t know what is. Whether Alicia Ramirez is dancing in her na- tive desert, or doing Swing and Salsa by the River Spree, this free spirited adventurer, sure knows how to shake it. Dang it! A vital layout member, Xander Richards and his goldie-locks can maintain a consistent tranquil balance between work and play. The amusing English major is a stickler for perfec- tion and expects nothing less than that from his peers. With a natural creative flair and determina- tion, there’s no doubt this talented young girl is going places. Charming and assertive with an edgy alternative style, Katie Griffiths suits Berlin to a T. Happy-go-lucky and hailing from Hong Kong Qing Wu has a spring in her step and the right attitude. The world is her oyster and she is a pearl. 2 Contributors’ Profiles.