Luxury Retail Management

       Vivek Kapoor
     Exchange Student
Agenda

•   Brand
     –   History
     –   Values
     –   Kapferer’s prism
•   International Strategy
•   Financial Analysis
•   Opera: Location and Surroundings
•   Store Economics
•   Shop Exterior
•   Shop Concept
•   Shop Events
•   Shop Interior
        p
     –   Observations
     –   Sales Experience
     –   Brand communication
     –   Merchandizing
•   3D Views
•   Sensorial Experience
•   Website
•   Social Media
•   Neiman Marcus
•   Conclusions
Lancel : The Brand




1876 : These were the times of the carefree Parisians who 
1876 : These were the times of the carefree Parisians who
flocked theatres, the new stores. Life was for living and enjoying. 
This time epitomized thelégèreté. It was in these days that 
Alphonse and AngèleLancel opened a small pipe‐making factory, 
and specialized for smokers articles for the next 50 years.
Lancel : The Brand
• 1926: Lancel focused
  on handbags and
  accessories for ladies.
  These years were
  extremely innovative
  and the Parisian ladies
  fell in love with the
  brand.
  brand As travel
  became easier, Lancel
  introduced the Aviona
  trunk specially designed
  for cabins.
Lancel : The Brand

Lancel stands for the carefree 
spirit, the French légèreté of sheer 
elegance with a hint of frivolity.
 l           ith hi t f f i lit
The brand is recognized as a 
symbol of Parisian elegance and 
symbol of Parisian elegance and
imagination.

This recent advertisement 
communicates that spirit with an 
impromptu jump into the 
impromptu jump into the
Concorde fountain
Lancel : The Brand
• Exquisite leather craft, innovative and designed by a lineage of
                    craft
  leather masters, Lancel proudly asserts its quality
• In a new campaign in 2003 the brand made an effort to move
  away from its stubborn position of quality and functionality to
  move to a more “majestic” halo around the bags
Lancel : Identity Prism
Elegant, Sculpted looks and              Modern, emancipated, empowered 
body. Carries herself/himself            and chic. They strike a balance 
with dignity and poise, but can          between sophistication and fun
be carefree and youthful


The brand relates to 
the user as a 
the user as a                                             Gaiety, socialization, Pa
                                                          risian légèreté with 
                              tionship




friend, a helper and 
cohort. It inspires to                                    innovation, experiment




                                               Cultu
be impeccable and 
be impeccable and                                         ation, perfection. 
                          Relat




                                                   ure 
innovative, and of                                        Modern, chic, leader
the highest personal 
s a da d
standard



Achiever, successful, tasteful, co              Fashionable, chic, frivolous,
nnoisseur 
                                                flirtatious, playful, impecca
International Strategy
• Lancel has been increasing retail
  presence primarily through the       180
  franchisee route                     160
  Lancel was d
• L     l     dependent heavily on
                    d th       il      140
  the French market till 2003 and a    120
  slowdown impacted its sales          100
• Th current strategy is to expand
  The        t t t      i t        d    80
  quickly into the new markets          60
  specially Asia where they are         40
  experiencing double digit             20
  growth, clearly via the franchisee     0
  route                                         2005          2008
• New boutiques were opened in
  Hong Kong, Macau and Waffi                 DOS       Franchised
  (Dubai) during 2008                    Source: Richemont SA Annual Reports
Lancel
International Botique Locations




                                  Source: Lancel website
Financial Analysis
                                     Lancel Operating Profit 
• Strategy is to refocus on              (Million Euro)
  France and take the brand
  back to its original          0
  pioneering values             ‐2    2005 2006 2007 2008
• Also, the brand wishes to     ‐4
  become an essential part
  of every woman’s              ‐6
  wardrobe in France            ‐8
• The new strategy has
  shown limited results as     ‐10
  can be seen from the         ‐12
  declining operating losses
  over the past years.         ‐14
                               ‐16
                               ‐18    Source: Richemont SA Annual Reports
Lancel : Opera
The Paris Opera has always been a place that attracted the masses and the classes. 
The theatres, café’s and Opera, the Ritz hotel in the vicinity all give the location an air 
of gaiety and sophistication
As can be seen from the old postcards, it always was a place with large number of 
footfalls
Today there are several other luxury brands and retail locations that further enhance 
the relevance of this location such as the Galeries Lafayette and Rue de la Paix which 
the relevance of this location such as the Galeries Lafayette and Rue de la Paix which
ends in this square.
Lancel : Opera
• Lancel moved into the Opera store in 1929
• The Opera (Grand Palais) was the hub of the elite and
  the most exclusive form of entertainment in the late
  19th century.
          t
• The store currently is situated in a beautiful square
  dominated by the opera, and lies exactly between the
  Galeries Lafayette and the Place V dô
  G l i L f       tt    d th Pl      Vendôme.
• The store is situated right next to the Opera metro
  exit
Location Analysis
              y
                                    Money 
                                Changer, Swatch


                                  Lancel

Grand Palais                     Bijoux Burma 
                                   j

                                 Zara, Promod


                   Rolex

                                    Maity


               Rue de la Paix
Location Analysis
Around Lancel
                              •   Galeries Lafayette
                                  G l i L f                              •   Google F
                                                                             G    l France
                              •   Place Vendôme                          •   Commerz Bank
                       ions




                                                             ommercial
                              •   Rue de la Paix                         •   SociteGenerale
                estinati




                              •   Opera                                  •   BNP Paribas
                              •   Concorde                               •   HSBC
               De




                                                            Co
                              •   Louvre                                     Credit Lyonnais


           •   Zara                             •   La Grand Café                               • Theatre Edouard




                                                                                         ment
           •   Geox                             •   Café de la Paix                               VII
                                                                                                • Cinema Paramou


                                                                                  tertainm
           •   Swatch
               S t h                            •   Starbucks
                                                    St b k
  opping




           •   Rolex                            •   Hard Rock France                            • Cinema Gaumont
               Bijoux Burma                                                                     • Théâtre des
                                           fe




           •
Sho




                                                                                Ent
                                         Caf




           •   Promod                                                                             Variétés
Luxury Hotels
• Hôtel Ritz
                                 This list is not exhaustive 
• Park Hyatt Paris-Vendome
                                 but only indicative of the 
• HôtelCostes
• Hotel Lotti Paris              prestige associated with 
                                      ti          i t d ith
• HôtelMeurice                   the location. 
• Hôtel Westminster
• Le Grand Hotel                 These are some of the 
  InterContinental               finest luxury hotels in 
• Hôt l S ib
  Hôtel Scribe                   the world, all within 10 
• Radisson Blu Ambassador        mins walking distance 
  Hotel
• Millennium Hotel Paris Opéra   from Lancel
                                 f     L     l
Location Analysis
• Lancel products lie in the lower end of the price range for
  similar products from competitors
• The Brand is definitely targeting a broader market, and
  hence needs to be exposed to traffic
• The location is extremely upmarket with the best luxury
  hotels and historic buildings, but also generates a lot of
  traffic due to offices, tourist attractions and popular
                        ,                         p p
  shopping destinations
• It is easily accessible by Metro and RER
• There is duplication of retail space in close-by locations, but
               p                   p              y            ,
  the shops probably cater to different clientele
• Lancel’s immediate neighbors cannot be categorized as
  luxury brands
• There is heavy traffic on the road in front of the shop, and
  walking is not very convenient in rush hours
• However, the location is excellent for exposing the brand
  and i
     d increasing recognition, and th large L
               i           iti      d the l     Lancel l tt i
                                                     l lettering
  delivers well
Economics
Head              Euros Per       Explanation
                                    p
                  Month
Rent                   500,000 Area assumed 1000 Sq. Mts
                                  Rent assumed 6000 Euro/Sq Mt./Yr – Based on Class lectures and 
                                                        / q    /
                                  age of contract
Staff Costs              40,000 Number of employees 10
                                  Average salary 4000 Euro
Displays/Event           30,000 30,000 Euros per month (Assumption)
s
Sales                1,250,000 50,000 euros per day, 25 days open
                     1 250 000 50 000 euros per day 25 days open

Margin                 675,000 Based on a multiple of 2 (Self owned store, lower comparable prices)
Overheads                62,500 5% of Turnover – Maintenance, Damages, Shop Lifting
Profit/(Loss)            42,500 3.4% of sales, low for a luxury brand
Comments: The entire store is not used for sales, a substantial portion ~40% is being used for 
                                                     ,               p                     g
exhibitions. As the store is a flagship store, its target is to not only drive profits but to also 
increase brand recognition, and communicate the values, and a small profit is actually good as 
the other objectives are achieved.
Shop Exterior
Shop Exterior




The display window were aesthetically organized and uncluttered. The 
The display window were aesthetically organized and uncluttered The
colors used were soothing and opulent looking. Photographs and quotes 
from A. Lancel communicated the heritage of the brand. 

Most people crossing the shop stopped to look at the products in the 
windows, however few went inside.
Shop Exterior
The displays and doors of the store are made from dark polished wood cleverly nestled 
between the stone pillars of the building. The stone pillars on the corner have Lancel
b          h          ill    f h b ildi     h         ill        h         h         l
engravings in them. 
The display windows featured no special decorations for Christmas, only a couple of 
large prints of Christmas trees made out of Lancel symbols and motifs.
l       i t f Ch i t      t       d     t fL      l     b l    d     tif
Shop Exterior
        •   The side of the shop not
            facing the square faces a
            newspaper stall.
        •   There was a man selling g
            roasted chestnuts on a
            shopping cart on the shop
            corner
        •   The door on this side was
            closed with no markings or
            directions to the other door
        •   Some of the paint/polish on
            the wooden exterior of the
            shop was chipping off
        •   The stands used for display
            of products were covered in
               p
            a suede like material that
            was very scratched and
            had loose ends and
            stitching
                    g
Shop Exterior
• Th L
  The Lancel l
             l logo adorned the windows of the 1st fl
                     d     d h     i d       f h    t floor

• The pillars of the building were bathed in red light, drawing
  atte t o away o t e ag
  attention a ay from the magnificent Grand Palais. If it were
                                     ce t G a d a a s       t e e
  not for this unusual lighting, all eyes would turn towards the
  Opera
                                 •Lancel in large type is written
                                 across the building at the 2nd floor
                                 in white. The name appearing
                                 multiple times looks loud and
                                       p
                                 unsophisticated.
                                 •The prices of the products in the
                                 display windows were
                                 consolidated in small frames
                                 •There was no doorman or any
                                 staff at the door of the store to
                                 offer any help or welcome
Shop Concept
                             As can be seen from the 1930’s 
                             advertisement, the shop itself was a 
                             destination when it was made
                                          h

                             It was entirely renovated in 2004, however 
                             the lower floor already looks old

                             Many people stop to look at the display 
                                 yp p       p                   p y
                             windows, but very few enter the shop

                             As can be seen in the old ad., the shop had 
                             As can be seen in the old ad the shop had
                             an openness and spaciousness about 
                             it, while today it feels cramped and closed


Lancel Opera Advt. in 1930
Shop Events : Lancel Harcourt
           Vintage exhibition
Since September 2009, the flagship Opera store of 
Lancel is showcasing the masterpieces of the Lancel
heritage. These include various items that were a rage in 
their times, and were turning points for the company 
and the fashion trends.
The store was spruced up for the inauguration ceremony 
with the signature red color. 
Images and actual vintage products are 
exemplifying the Lancel heritage inside the store
Shop Events
The Opera store is the flagship store for Lancel and hosts all special events and 
exhibitions. It is currently hosting a public exhibition of the most select Lancel
products that have shaped the brands heritage. These include the crocodile and 
products that have shaped the brands heritage These include the crocodile and
umbrella bag among others. 
This exhibition also showcased the transition of Lancel from a smoking accessory 
brands to a brand for bags for both men and women.
brands to a brand for bags for both men and women
There is no signage in the store informing clients about this exhibition. Hence no‐one 
seems to be going up to see it and the sales people also do not inform customers of its 
p
presence. So an excellent opportunity to increase brand awsareness is being wasted 
                              pp        y                                      g
Shop Interior
The ground floor had 2 entrances, one of which was closed. Most of the windows had displays 
of products making the inside of the store feel cramped and suffocated. 
The shelves on which the products were kept were made of white laminate which was chipped 
on the edges and had scratches on it making it look old and untidy
The floor was made of tiny mosaic tiles, probably preserved from the original shop. In several 
places in the mosaic, a golden L was embedded and at the entrance, the entire logo embellished 
the floor in golden mosaic tiles. 
Instore Experience : Observations
• I was the only Customer on the floor
• 7-8 sales associates
• Comfort - One Large imposing man p
                      g     p     g     probably security
                                                y       y
  standing next to the cash counter and closely
  observing all the customers, very unnerving
• Cleanliness - Shelves made of white
  laminate, chipped and scratched in places
• Opulence - Large glass elevator and ordinary
  staircase for going to other floors
                g   g
• Comfort - A couple of chairs against the walls to
  sit, looked more for the sales people than customers –
  No place to sit
• Large red chandelier cutting across floors in the
  centre of the shop
• No open space cramped by table displays and
            space,
  accessory stands
Instore Experience : Sales
•   Greeting - At the door a sales person of Chinese origin greeted
    me. All the other sales people seemed to be native French
•   Language - I was greeted in French, and I inquired if she spoke
    English, to which I got a nod and an reply in French which I couldn’t
                                                                 couldn t
    understand
•   This went on progressively and the price range of the bags kept
    reducing
•   Attention - I requested to walk around to look at the bags, but she
    kept bringing bags
•   Sales representatives were pacing around the shop.
•   Uniform - Sales people wearing black suits, black glove on left hand
•   Behavior – Sales people were all curt and were not smiling at
    customers
•   Modeling – I was alone so the sales person herslef modeled holding
    the bags so that I could picture them better
•   Demographics - One sales person of Chinese origin, all others
    looked French, most aged between 30-40 years
Instore Experience : Brand
• Brand Heritage – The sales girl did not try to sell
  the bag by showcasing Lancel heritage. She stuck to
  functional aspects.
• B and Codes - Fl
  Brand             Flooring made of mosaic tiles, with
                         i       d    f   i til     ith
  golden ‘L’’s in places, very antique looking
• Information - While I examined the bag she told
  me that it took 50 pieces of leather and 100 man
       th t t k            i       f l th     d
  hours of work to make one of those bags
• Information - She also offered to open and
  showcase th insides of the b
   h           the i id       f th bags explaining each
                                            l i i       h
  of the pockets and informing me that it was a very
  good and functional bag at each of these instances.
InStore Experience - Merchandizing

• All the bags were available in several colors
      th b              il bl i         l l
• Some bags were available in different sizes
• All these were not displayed, but when I
  inquired about a specific color in a bag, she
  was able to bring the bag from a store in 5
  minutes.
• Expensive bags were kept on a soft
  sofa-like display, normal bags were kept on
  shelves, cheap bags were hung on stands
  and accessories and small bags were in
  display cases.
Instore Experience
• At one point the sales representative stopped in mid
          p                   p               pp
  conversation and walked to walk some customer out!
• She handed the bag to the security man who handed the
  bag to me and ordered me (pointed) to move back with
  the b !
  th bag!
• The sales representative came back and continued
  without apologizing!!
• I told her I would like to take a look at the collection myself
    t ld h         ld lik t t k      l k t th     ll ti        lf
  and she ignored me and kept bringing bags!!
• Without inquiring/judging my budget, she kept showing me
  progressively cheaper bags
• I told her that I’d like to take some time to think about the
  purchase, and she showed me a cheaper bag!
• The Security man’s eyes kept following the customers!
                man s

 The experience was a mixed bag. The sales people did some things right, but did 
 most things wrong. The brand did not communicate its heritage through the sales 
 process, only through the exhibition and old framed posters.
Shop 3D View (Ground Floor)

Scarves and         Display 
Accessories         Window
                                  Closed 
                                   Door


    Stairs



  Stand for 
  Stand for
                                             Cash 
  cheaper 
                                            Counter
    bags


                                 Main 
   Glass 
                               Entrance
  Elevator
3D View



                    3 Walls with 
 Small               shelves for 
 Bags                 p
                      products
Conter



Adjani                 Closed 
 Bags               display, Back 
                      wall has 
                       shelves
Sensorial Experience
Sight
Si h       All products were arranged neatly on shelves or 
             ll   d                  d       l      h l
           stands. The lighting was sufficient, but the store 
           did not feel open. No display screens were used 
Sound      No music was playing in the store. The traffic 
           outside was audible inside the shop, though 
           muffled.
Smell      There was no odor in the store, not even of new 
           leather.


Touch      The materials used within the store for shelves, 
           drapes etc. were not luxurious, the materials 
              p
           used in the window displays were better
Taste      The look of the store was a mixture of vintage 
           and modern, this looked tacky so wasn t probably 
           and modern this looked tacky so wasn’t probably
           done well
Website




2005 – No website, Coming Soon




                                       2006 (Jul) – Website launched in French and 
                                       English. Use of models for initial few years of 
                                       website is in contrast to current site
2006 (Jan) – No website, Coming Soon
                                                  Source: Wayback Machine, Internet Archive
Current Website
Website : Brand Communication

• Th website h excellent
  The    b it has       ll t
  communication of the brands heritage
• Videos, old photographs and details of
  merchandize narrate the Lancel story in
  an easy to use interface
                      f
• No models are used in the current
  website and the focus is on products
  and heritage
• Information about events and
  boutiques is also available on the site
       q
Website : Store Locator
• Easy to use well organized store
  locator on the site
Social Media
    Lancel is active on Social Networking
           is active on Social Networking 
    sites

    Regular updates about new 
    products, sites and events
    Videos and photos from events and 
    Vid       d h       f           d
    shoots

    Facebook has 3100 followers, twitter 
    has 250 and these are possibly the 
    brands biggest fans

    Showcase websites for products 
    Sh          b it f       d t
    promoted through social networking
Neiman Marcus
• I felt as if the sales person was trying to
    f lt       th    l              t i    t
  make a sale by reducing price
• Sh did not inquire about my
  She           ti     i    b t
  requirements till I offered them
• She was focusing on functional aspects
  rather than than communicating the brand
  ethics and values
• Therefore, I think she only wanted to make
  a sale, not a good one for the customer.
• So the store does not follow the Neiman
  Marcus philosophy.
            p        p y
Conclusions
• Lancel has an excellent location for the Opera store
• The quality of products is good
• The website and online activities support the stores
                                       pp
  well
• The customer experience is not up to scratch.
  Interaction with sales people was not relaxed and
                         p p
  involved
• The store does well to communicate the brand
         g
  heritage
• No special efforts were made to establish a long term
  relationship
• I was not allowed to move freely inside the store, the
                                              store
  sales person wouldn’t leave me alone!
• I entered the store with an actual intention to
  buy a bag as a gift and exited the store without
                   gift,
  the bag!
Thank You

Lancel Paris - Retail Experience

  • 1.
    Luxury Retail Management Vivek Kapoor Exchange Student
  • 2.
    Agenda • Brand – History – Values – Kapferer’s prism • International Strategy • Financial Analysis • Opera: Location and Surroundings • Store Economics • Shop Exterior • Shop Concept • Shop Events • Shop Interior p – Observations – Sales Experience – Brand communication – Merchandizing • 3D Views • Sensorial Experience • Website • Social Media • Neiman Marcus • Conclusions
  • 3.
    Lancel : TheBrand 1876 : These were the times of the carefree Parisians who  1876 : These were the times of the carefree Parisians who flocked theatres, the new stores. Life was for living and enjoying.  This time epitomized thelégèreté. It was in these days that  Alphonse and AngèleLancel opened a small pipe‐making factory,  and specialized for smokers articles for the next 50 years.
  • 4.
    Lancel : TheBrand • 1926: Lancel focused on handbags and accessories for ladies. These years were extremely innovative and the Parisian ladies fell in love with the brand. brand As travel became easier, Lancel introduced the Aviona trunk specially designed for cabins.
  • 5.
    Lancel : TheBrand Lancel stands for the carefree  spirit, the French légèreté of sheer  elegance with a hint of frivolity. l ith hi t f f i lit The brand is recognized as a  symbol of Parisian elegance and  symbol of Parisian elegance and imagination. This recent advertisement  communicates that spirit with an  impromptu jump into the  impromptu jump into the Concorde fountain
  • 6.
    Lancel : TheBrand • Exquisite leather craft, innovative and designed by a lineage of craft leather masters, Lancel proudly asserts its quality • In a new campaign in 2003 the brand made an effort to move away from its stubborn position of quality and functionality to move to a more “majestic” halo around the bags
  • 8.
    Lancel : IdentityPrism Elegant, Sculpted looks and  Modern, emancipated, empowered  body. Carries herself/himself  and chic. They strike a balance  with dignity and poise, but can  between sophistication and fun be carefree and youthful The brand relates to  the user as a  the user as a Gaiety, socialization, Pa risian légèreté with  tionship friend, a helper and  cohort. It inspires to  innovation, experiment Cultu be impeccable and  be impeccable and ation, perfection.  Relat ure  innovative, and of  Modern, chic, leader the highest personal  s a da d standard Achiever, successful, tasteful, co Fashionable, chic, frivolous, nnoisseur  flirtatious, playful, impecca
  • 9.
    International Strategy • Lancelhas been increasing retail presence primarily through the 180 franchisee route 160 Lancel was d • L l dependent heavily on d th il 140 the French market till 2003 and a 120 slowdown impacted its sales 100 • Th current strategy is to expand The t t t i t d 80 quickly into the new markets 60 specially Asia where they are 40 experiencing double digit 20 growth, clearly via the franchisee 0 route 2005 2008 • New boutiques were opened in Hong Kong, Macau and Waffi DOS Franchised (Dubai) during 2008 Source: Richemont SA Annual Reports
  • 10.
  • 11.
    Financial Analysis Lancel Operating Profit  • Strategy is to refocus on (Million Euro) France and take the brand back to its original 0 pioneering values ‐2 2005 2006 2007 2008 • Also, the brand wishes to ‐4 become an essential part of every woman’s ‐6 wardrobe in France ‐8 • The new strategy has shown limited results as ‐10 can be seen from the ‐12 declining operating losses over the past years. ‐14 ‐16 ‐18 Source: Richemont SA Annual Reports
  • 12.
  • 13.
    Lancel : Opera •Lancel moved into the Opera store in 1929 • The Opera (Grand Palais) was the hub of the elite and the most exclusive form of entertainment in the late 19th century. t • The store currently is situated in a beautiful square dominated by the opera, and lies exactly between the Galeries Lafayette and the Place V dô G l i L f tt d th Pl Vendôme. • The store is situated right next to the Opera metro exit
  • 14.
    Location Analysis y Money  Changer, Swatch Lancel Grand Palais Bijoux Burma  j Zara, Promod Rolex Maity Rue de la Paix
  • 15.
  • 16.
    Around Lancel • Galeries Lafayette G l i L f • Google F G l France • Place Vendôme • Commerz Bank ions ommercial • Rue de la Paix • SociteGenerale estinati • Opera • BNP Paribas • Concorde • HSBC De Co • Louvre Credit Lyonnais • Zara • La Grand Café • Theatre Edouard ment • Geox • Café de la Paix VII • Cinema Paramou tertainm • Swatch S t h • Starbucks St b k opping • Rolex • Hard Rock France • Cinema Gaumont Bijoux Burma • Théâtre des fe • Sho Ent Caf • Promod Variétés
  • 17.
    Luxury Hotels • HôtelRitz This list is not exhaustive  • Park Hyatt Paris-Vendome but only indicative of the  • HôtelCostes • Hotel Lotti Paris prestige associated with  ti i t d ith • HôtelMeurice the location.  • Hôtel Westminster • Le Grand Hotel These are some of the  InterContinental finest luxury hotels in  • Hôt l S ib Hôtel Scribe the world, all within 10  • Radisson Blu Ambassador mins walking distance  Hotel • Millennium Hotel Paris Opéra from Lancel f L l
  • 18.
    Location Analysis • Lancelproducts lie in the lower end of the price range for similar products from competitors • The Brand is definitely targeting a broader market, and hence needs to be exposed to traffic • The location is extremely upmarket with the best luxury hotels and historic buildings, but also generates a lot of traffic due to offices, tourist attractions and popular , p p shopping destinations • It is easily accessible by Metro and RER • There is duplication of retail space in close-by locations, but p p y , the shops probably cater to different clientele • Lancel’s immediate neighbors cannot be categorized as luxury brands • There is heavy traffic on the road in front of the shop, and walking is not very convenient in rush hours • However, the location is excellent for exposing the brand and i d increasing recognition, and th large L i iti d the l Lancel l tt i l lettering delivers well
  • 19.
    Economics Head Euros Per Explanation p Month Rent 500,000 Area assumed 1000 Sq. Mts Rent assumed 6000 Euro/Sq Mt./Yr – Based on Class lectures and  / q / age of contract Staff Costs 40,000 Number of employees 10 Average salary 4000 Euro Displays/Event 30,000 30,000 Euros per month (Assumption) s Sales 1,250,000 50,000 euros per day, 25 days open 1 250 000 50 000 euros per day 25 days open Margin 675,000 Based on a multiple of 2 (Self owned store, lower comparable prices) Overheads 62,500 5% of Turnover – Maintenance, Damages, Shop Lifting Profit/(Loss) 42,500 3.4% of sales, low for a luxury brand Comments: The entire store is not used for sales, a substantial portion ~40% is being used for  , p g exhibitions. As the store is a flagship store, its target is to not only drive profits but to also  increase brand recognition, and communicate the values, and a small profit is actually good as  the other objectives are achieved.
  • 20.
  • 21.
    Shop Exterior The display window were aesthetically organized and uncluttered. The  The displaywindow were aesthetically organized and uncluttered The colors used were soothing and opulent looking. Photographs and quotes  from A. Lancel communicated the heritage of the brand.  Most people crossing the shop stopped to look at the products in the  windows, however few went inside.
  • 22.
    Shop Exterior The displays and doors of the store are made from dark polished wood cleverly nestled  between the stone pillars of the building. The stone pillars on the corner have Lancel b h ill f h b ildi h ill h h l engravings in them.  The display windows featured no special decorations for Christmas, only a couple of  large prints of Christmas trees made out of Lancel symbols and motifs. l i t f Ch i t t d t fL l b l d tif
  • 23.
    Shop Exterior • The side of the shop not facing the square faces a newspaper stall. • There was a man selling g roasted chestnuts on a shopping cart on the shop corner • The door on this side was closed with no markings or directions to the other door • Some of the paint/polish on the wooden exterior of the shop was chipping off • The stands used for display of products were covered in p a suede like material that was very scratched and had loose ends and stitching g
  • 24.
    Shop Exterior • ThL The Lancel l l logo adorned the windows of the 1st fl d d h i d f h t floor • The pillars of the building were bathed in red light, drawing atte t o away o t e ag attention a ay from the magnificent Grand Palais. If it were ce t G a d a a s t e e not for this unusual lighting, all eyes would turn towards the Opera •Lancel in large type is written across the building at the 2nd floor in white. The name appearing multiple times looks loud and p unsophisticated. •The prices of the products in the display windows were consolidated in small frames •There was no doorman or any staff at the door of the store to offer any help or welcome
  • 25.
    Shop Concept As can be seen from the 1930’s  advertisement, the shop itself was a  destination when it was made h It was entirely renovated in 2004, however  the lower floor already looks old Many people stop to look at the display  yp p p p y windows, but very few enter the shop As can be seen in the old ad., the shop had  As can be seen in the old ad the shop had an openness and spaciousness about  it, while today it feels cramped and closed Lancel Opera Advt. in 1930
  • 26.
    Shop Events :Lancel Harcourt Vintage exhibition Since September 2009, the flagship Opera store of  Lancel is showcasing the masterpieces of the Lancel heritage. These include various items that were a rage in  their times, and were turning points for the company  and the fashion trends. The store was spruced up for the inauguration ceremony  with the signature red color. 
  • 27.
  • 28.
    Shop Events The Opera store is the flagship store for Lancel and hosts all special events and  exhibitions. It is currently hosting a public exhibition of the most select Lancel products that have shaped the brands heritage. These include the crocodile and  productsthat have shaped the brands heritage These include the crocodile and umbrella bag among others.  This exhibition also showcased the transition of Lancel from a smoking accessory  brands to a brand for bags for both men and women. brands to a brand for bags for both men and women There is no signage in the store informing clients about this exhibition. Hence no‐one  seems to be going up to see it and the sales people also do not inform customers of its  p presence. So an excellent opportunity to increase brand awsareness is being wasted  pp y g
  • 29.
  • 30.
    Instore Experience :Observations • I was the only Customer on the floor • 7-8 sales associates • Comfort - One Large imposing man p g p g probably security y y standing next to the cash counter and closely observing all the customers, very unnerving • Cleanliness - Shelves made of white laminate, chipped and scratched in places • Opulence - Large glass elevator and ordinary staircase for going to other floors g g • Comfort - A couple of chairs against the walls to sit, looked more for the sales people than customers – No place to sit • Large red chandelier cutting across floors in the centre of the shop • No open space cramped by table displays and space, accessory stands
  • 31.
    Instore Experience :Sales • Greeting - At the door a sales person of Chinese origin greeted me. All the other sales people seemed to be native French • Language - I was greeted in French, and I inquired if she spoke English, to which I got a nod and an reply in French which I couldn’t couldn t understand • This went on progressively and the price range of the bags kept reducing • Attention - I requested to walk around to look at the bags, but she kept bringing bags • Sales representatives were pacing around the shop. • Uniform - Sales people wearing black suits, black glove on left hand • Behavior – Sales people were all curt and were not smiling at customers • Modeling – I was alone so the sales person herslef modeled holding the bags so that I could picture them better • Demographics - One sales person of Chinese origin, all others looked French, most aged between 30-40 years
  • 32.
    Instore Experience :Brand • Brand Heritage – The sales girl did not try to sell the bag by showcasing Lancel heritage. She stuck to functional aspects. • B and Codes - Fl Brand Flooring made of mosaic tiles, with i d f i til ith golden ‘L’’s in places, very antique looking • Information - While I examined the bag she told me that it took 50 pieces of leather and 100 man th t t k i f l th d hours of work to make one of those bags • Information - She also offered to open and showcase th insides of the b h the i id f th bags explaining each l i i h of the pockets and informing me that it was a very good and functional bag at each of these instances.
  • 33.
    InStore Experience -Merchandizing • All the bags were available in several colors th b il bl i l l • Some bags were available in different sizes • All these were not displayed, but when I inquired about a specific color in a bag, she was able to bring the bag from a store in 5 minutes. • Expensive bags were kept on a soft sofa-like display, normal bags were kept on shelves, cheap bags were hung on stands and accessories and small bags were in display cases.
  • 34.
    Instore Experience • Atone point the sales representative stopped in mid p p pp conversation and walked to walk some customer out! • She handed the bag to the security man who handed the bag to me and ordered me (pointed) to move back with the b ! th bag! • The sales representative came back and continued without apologizing!! • I told her I would like to take a look at the collection myself t ld h ld lik t t k l k t th ll ti lf and she ignored me and kept bringing bags!! • Without inquiring/judging my budget, she kept showing me progressively cheaper bags • I told her that I’d like to take some time to think about the purchase, and she showed me a cheaper bag! • The Security man’s eyes kept following the customers! man s The experience was a mixed bag. The sales people did some things right, but did  most things wrong. The brand did not communicate its heritage through the sales  process, only through the exhibition and old framed posters.
  • 35.
    Shop 3D View(Ground Floor) Scarves and  Display  Accessories Window Closed  Door Stairs Stand for  Stand for Cash  cheaper  Counter bags Main  Glass  Entrance Elevator
  • 36.
    3D View 3 Walls with  Small  shelves for  Bags  p products Conter Adjani  Closed  Bags display, Back  wall has  shelves
  • 37.
    Sensorial Experience Sight Si h All products were arranged neatly on shelves or  ll d d l h l stands. The lighting was sufficient, but the store  did not feel open. No display screens were used  Sound No music was playing in the store. The traffic  outside was audible inside the shop, though  muffled. Smell There was no odor in the store, not even of new  leather. Touch The materials used within the store for shelves,  drapes etc. were not luxurious, the materials  p used in the window displays were better Taste The look of the store was a mixture of vintage  and modern, this looked tacky so wasn t probably  and modern this looked tacky so wasn’t probably done well
  • 38.
    Website 2005 – No website, Coming Soon 2006 (Jul) – Website launched in French and  English. Use of models for initial few years of  website is in contrast to current site 2006 (Jan) – No website, Coming Soon Source: Wayback Machine, Internet Archive
  • 39.
  • 40.
    Website : BrandCommunication • Th website h excellent The b it has ll t communication of the brands heritage • Videos, old photographs and details of merchandize narrate the Lancel story in an easy to use interface f • No models are used in the current website and the focus is on products and heritage • Information about events and boutiques is also available on the site q
  • 41.
    Website : StoreLocator • Easy to use well organized store locator on the site
  • 42.
    Social Media Lancel is active on Social Networking is active on Social Networking  sites Regular updates about new  products, sites and events Videos and photos from events and  Vid d h f d shoots Facebook has 3100 followers, twitter  has 250 and these are possibly the  brands biggest fans Showcase websites for products  Sh b it f d t promoted through social networking
  • 43.
    Neiman Marcus • Ifelt as if the sales person was trying to f lt th l t i t make a sale by reducing price • Sh did not inquire about my She ti i b t requirements till I offered them • She was focusing on functional aspects rather than than communicating the brand ethics and values • Therefore, I think she only wanted to make a sale, not a good one for the customer. • So the store does not follow the Neiman Marcus philosophy. p p y
  • 44.
    Conclusions • Lancel hasan excellent location for the Opera store • The quality of products is good • The website and online activities support the stores pp well • The customer experience is not up to scratch. Interaction with sales people was not relaxed and p p involved • The store does well to communicate the brand g heritage • No special efforts were made to establish a long term relationship • I was not allowed to move freely inside the store, the store sales person wouldn’t leave me alone! • I entered the store with an actual intention to buy a bag as a gift and exited the store without gift, the bag!
  • 45.