The document provides instructions for accurately measuring and templating a glass splashback. It recommends tools for measuring and outlines a step-by-step process for creating a template, including measuring heights, widths, and cutouts. It emphasizes allowing a 2mm tolerance gap between the glass and other surfaces and provides additional guidance for returns, corners, and general cutouts.

1. How to Measure, Fit & Care
for Your Glass Splashbacks
(Part 1 - How to Measure)

2. Contents:
Page 3 – How to Measure – advice before you start and recommended tools
Page 4 – Templating 101 – a simple rectangular glass splashback template
Page 8 – Socket Cutouts & Cutouts – adding a cutout to your template
Page 11 – Completing Your Template – our final templating advice
Additional Information:
Page 12 – Splashback Returns – advice for adjoining splashback returns
Page 13 – Cutouts in General – advice for creating cutouts and drill holes
Page 14 – Sockets and Notches – advice for creating socket cutouts & notches
Copyright 2014 – http://glasssplashbacksuk.com
All rights reserved.

3.  Recommended Tools
Basic Tools we think you will need
In order to measure accurately it is important that you at least have a few basic tools. Although we recognise that it might
be possible to measure without all of these tools, here are a few that we would recommend.
 How to Measure
Advice before you start
Even if this is not the first time that you have templated for splashbacks, it is worth reading this information before you start,
not only because you might pick up some handy hints but more importantly because it will help you to provide us with the
information we require to accurately produce your glass splashbacks.
Here are a few things to bear in mind:
• Although large areas of wall can be covered with a single panel of glass, we would recommend that you limit
the over all length to around 2 metres. This will not only reduce the risk of breakages but also make the
panels easier to handle.
• Glass cannot be scribed to follow the finish of a wall but will have straight edges, therefore, if your walls or wall units
are uneven, it is important that you determine the minimum width and height for your glass to fit and work
to these dimensions.
• Wherever you have two pieces of glass butting up to one another, try to keep the glass edges vertical.
• Once the glass has been produced it cannot be cut or altered in any way, owing to the toughening process and so
Get someone else to re-measure – if you find an error, then measure again!
Notepad, Pen and Pencil
You will need to record your
measurements. The simplest way is on
a scaled drawing of your splashback
A Laser Level
This is the easiest and most accurate
way to produce your horizontal and
vertical guide lines
Tape Measure
To measure the longer distances you
will need a measure of some sort. A
standard tape measure is fine.
Steel Rule
It is often easier to measure the shorter
distances using a steel rule or good
quality engineer’s ruler
Spirit Level
A spirit level will help you to quickly
determine whether your worktop, walls
and units are true and level
Soft Pencil or Marker
You will need to draw horizontal and
vertical lines on your wall as guide lines
for your measurements

4.  Producing a Simple Glass Splashback Template
Templating 101
How to template a simple kitchen layout like the one below to produce a single rectangular glass splashback
Step 2
Before you begin the measuring
process, ensure that the wall
surface is reasonably smooth
and free from bumps. (This is
particularly important if you are
also applying a splashback to
an adjoining wall as significant
bumps will cause the glass to
sit proud of the wall)
The image (left) shows that the
wall is flat and free from bumps.
Producing a glass splashback template
is actually a lot easier than most people
think. There are, of course, one or two
important details to remember which
we will point out along the way but as
long as you follow this procedure you
should be fine 
Step 1
Make an accurate sketch of the surface
to be templated so that you can keep a
record of your measurements (right)

5. Step 3
Using a spirit level to guide you (or laser level if you have one) draw a horizontal line on the wall. This should be
between one third and halfway up, ideally missing any wall sockets that you have. This is your datum line.
Ideally, these vertical lines
should be between 50 and
100mm from the wall ends.
[This will enable you to
determine how true your
walls are and therefore how
square the sides of your
splashback will be.]
Your three lines should look
something like this (see
below)
Step 4
Next, you will need to draw a
vertical line on the wall, on
the far left and far right-hand
sides of the template area;
again, using a spirit level or
laser line to guide you (to
ensure that your vertical line
is perpendicular – at 90
degrees to the horizontal
datum line).

6. Step 5
From experience, wall units are not always fitted level ,
therefore as a precautionary measure it is good
practice to draw a vertical line to the point at which
each of your wall cupboards intersect (as this will help
you to identify the maximum height of your splashback)
Step 6
Take three height
measurements along
the full length of the
worktop, up to the
horizontal “datum” line
– the far left-hand and
far right-hand sides
(measuring along the
vertical lines that you
have drawn) and in the
middle (preferably
along another vertical
line that you’ve drawn).

7. Be sure to record your measurements on your template sketch as you take them
Step 8
Proceed by taking
the three horizontal
measurements at
worktop level; from
the wall to the left-
hand vertical, from
the wall to the right-
hand vertical and
the distance in the
centre, between the
two vertical lines.
Step 7
Repeat this process taking
the measurements above
your horizontal datum line,
from the horizontal line to the
wall units.
Do this wherever you have
drawn a vertical line and
record these measurements.
Once all of your vertical
measurements have been
taken and recorded on your
template sketch, you can
begin measuring the
horizontals.

8.  How to measure for Cutouts and Socket Cutouts
Step 9
Repeat this process,
as before, along the
top edge (on the
underside of the wall
units) remembering
to keep a record of
the results as you go
Once you have completed all of these steps you should have all of the measurements that you need to determine the
over-all size of your glass splashback panel.
A tolerance gap of 2mm is required between the glass and any other solid surface!

9. Step A
Measure the width and
height of the socket
opening (or socket facia
plate if it is already fitted)
and determine both the
vertical and horizontal
centres.
Mark these points
If you have a socket facia/face plate, it may be
easier to mark the actual centre of the cutout

10. Step B
Continue the vertical line down
until it meets the worktop.
Step C
Measure the vertical distance from the
top of the worktop to the middle of the
socket cutout (vertical centre) or the
socket centre if you have marked it on
the face plate (as shown)

11.  Completing your template drawing
Step D
Locate the position of the socket centre from
the wall by measuring the horizontal distance
from the left-hand corner of the wall to the
vertical line that you have just drawn (that is,
the horizontal centre of the cutout)
If you have other sockets or cutouts, simply repeat this process until you have all of the measurements you need
The single-most important factor when completing your template drawing is to remember to create a
2mm “tolerance” gap between your glass panel and any other surface that it may come into contact with

12.  Splashback Returns
When the splashback returns along an adjoining wall; either as an internal or external corner you will also need to allow for
the thickness of the glass and the adhesive (see illustration below).
Internal corners – because the left edge of panel C will be covered by the thickness of panel B plus 2mm of adhesive,
you can finish panel C as much as 6mm from the wall and in most cases this can be cut as a vertical side and not have
to follow the inclination or deviation of the wall; provided, of course, that these are less than 4mm. Similarly, when calculating
the length of panel B you will need to allow not only the thickness of the glass and adhesive but also a 2mm tolerance,
where the two glass panels meet. Therefore, the total length of panel B should be reduced by 10mm. It should also be
noted that because panel C will be fitted vertically, the right hand (or respective) edge of panel B should be finished as
a vertical edge.
External corners – because panel A will need to cover the thickness of panel B plus 2mm of adhesive, panel A will
need to be increased in over all length by at least 8mm. [If you are concerned about the quality of your wall finishes it might
be worth increasing this by 1 or 2mm to compensate, as panel B can always be brought out slightly further from the wall.]
Unlike the internal corners above, panel B needs to run the full length of the wall, all the way to the corner. [If the corner
of your wall is inclined so that the bottom and top lengths of panel B are not equal your panel will need to be produced
based upon the longest measurement and so that the panel side that meets panel A is vertical.]
Note: Where the glass splashback returns along an adjacent wall, the vertical edge against the wall can be
created with a true edge (i.e. not following the incline of a wall that has a deflection) as the overlap will hide the
deviation of the wall finish, up to a maximum depth of 6mm.
Note: Where splashback (B) meets another panel that is against a wall or vertical surface (A or C)
splashback (B) should be produced with a true vertical edge (i.e. no inclination) as panels are fitted
vertically irrespective of the wall’s condition
Exposed splashback sides should be created with true vertical edges and not inclined!
Toughened glass cannot be modified so if in doubt make it smaller!
Note – For an internal

13.  Cutouts – A General Guide
Advice for creating any type of cutout
A cutout refers to any area of glass that is removed from a panel, perhaps to accommodate a beam or cupboard, for
instance or where the glass extends up to a section that is higher than the wall cabinets, like the area under an extractor
hood. If you require a cutout in one or more of your panels there are a few important details that you will need to consider:
 Drill Holes
Advice for creating drill holes
If you require drill holes in your glass splashback for a utensil rack or something similar you will need to have them pre-
drilled as you can’t drill the holes once the glass has been toughened. Therefore, you will have to make these decisions
prior to ordering your glass splashback.
Once you know where the holes are to be located and the size of the drill hole required it is simply a case of identifying
the position of the centre of the hole in relation to the bottom left-hand corner of the splashback.
The simplest way of doing this is to mark the centre of each hole on the wall with a cross and then to extend a vertical line
from the centre down to the worktop. Measure the distance of this line from the far left wall (LD1 or LD2) and the height of
the line to the drill hole centre (HD1 or HD2) and don’t forget to deduct 2mm from each one of these measurements.
HD1
LD2
HD2
Diameter
LD1
• You cannot have a completely square
cutout from a panel, as in Image 1. The
cutout will be created with a small
radius in the corner of approx. 6mm.
• If you require a rectangular cutout as in
Image 2, then the solution would be to
create the panel in two pieces as
illustrated by the vertical dotted line.
• You must avoid deep cutouts, as in
Image 3, as the glass is likely to
fracture. Once again, the solution is to
create this panel in three sections as
illustrated by the vertical dotted lines.
• If the cutout is simply a recess to
accommodate an extractor or beam, for
instance, as in Image 4, then this can
be created from a single panel.
4. Single panel recess cutouts are fine
1. Panel with cutout and radius in corner
small
radius
3. Avoid deep cutouts by dividing into 3 pieces
join
lines
join
line
2. Panel with square cutout in two pieces
If you want square cutouts you will need to create separate pieces and have join lines!

14.  Sockets & Apertures
Electric sockets or switches are generally located by their centres. So in order to identify the position of S1, for instance,
you will need to measure the height from the worktop to the centre of the socket (H1) and the distance from the left-hand
corner of the splashback to the socket centre (L1). Similarly, to locate the position of S3, take the height measurement
from the worktop to the socket centre (H2) and again measure the distance from the left-hand corner of the splashback to
the centre of the socket (L3). Don’t forget to deduct 2mm from each one of these measurements.
• You must have a minimum of 20mm of glass between each cutout or it will be produced as a single cutout.
• There must be a minimum of 50mm of glass between any socket cutout side and the edge of the splashback.
 Notches
The actual size of the cutout will be cut according to our set sizes (see table below) which are approximately 5 millimetres
smaller, all around, than a standard cover plate, so it is very important to be as accurate with both measurements as
possible. The convention here is to fit the cover plates before you measure so that you can easily determine the centre.
A notch refers to any area of glass that is removed from one of the four corners of the splashback either to accommodate
existing features or to fit around furniture; it is therefore more common for these to be located at the top of a splashback.
The simplest way to locate the notch is to identify the position of the internal corner (i.e. the corner that is closest to the
centre of the splashback) in relation to the bottom left-hand corner of the splashback wall. Then, as with the drill hole
positioning, it is best to draw a vertical line
from this corner down to the worktop. You
can then easily measure the height (HN1 or
HN2) and the distance to this line from the
left-hand corner (LN1 or LN2). Then all that
is required is the size of the notch itself - i.e.
(L1 x H1) or (L2 x H2).
For a notch that is on the base of the
splashback the principle is the same except
that the height to the internal corner is the
same as the actual height dimension (H1 or
H2) of the notch and for a notch in the left-
hand corner the length and height are the
dimensions of the notch.
Don’t forget to adjust the measurements to
account for the 2mm of tolerance around the
perimeter of the splashback and the notch!
Socket Cutout Sizes
Single Sockets
Double Sockets
Double Socket + Single Socket
75mm x 75mm
135mm x 75mm
218mm x 75mm
Socket Cutout Sizes
Single Socket
Double Socket
Double Socket + Single Socket
75mm x 75mm
135mm x 75mm
218mm x 75mm
S1 S2 S3 S4

15. The information contained within this guide is based on practical experience and reflects our current state of knowledge. It is intended for informational purposes
only and does not constitute a guarantee in terms of the products we are supplying. The accuracy of any measurements that you provide is your responsibility.
If you require any further assistance then please do not hesitate to contact us and we will do our best to assist you further in any way that we can.
Unless otherwise stated our General Terms and Conditions apply.
Copyright 2014 – http://glasssplashbacksuk.com
All rights reserved.