The Bicol Express dish originated in the Bicol region of the Philippines and was popularized in Manila in the 1970s by chef Cely Kalaw. It is a spicy coconut milk-based stew that traditionally contains pork, chilies, shrimp paste and other ingredients. Variants now include seafood, beef, vegetarian and vegan versions. The name references the Bicol Express passenger train that traveled from Manila to the Bicol region. The dish has since been commercialized.