2. Shirley: an Internationally Renowned Independent
Textile Testing Laboratory
1
With a history dating back almost 100 years Shirley has
made a huge contribution to the development of and
the testing of textiles, and its world-wide reputation for
excellence and reliability is well deserved.
Shirley and BTTG
The Shirley Institute was founded in 1919, and in 1988 it
was merged with the Wool Industry Research Association
to form the British Textile Technology Group. Today
Shirley works alongside BTTG as part of the same
group of companies.
BTTG concentrates on the provision of testing, certification
and auditing services to the personal protective
equipment, and construction products markets, while
Shirley maintains a focus on apparel.
As a result of this long established presence, we are
able to provide competitive, independent textile testing,
certification, advisory and investigation services across
both the traditional and specialist global textile industries
in the international market. With our ability to call on
the experience of our dedicated and expert staff,
Shirley provides first class technical support to the
textile industry.
A Global Network Of Clients
The Shirley client base consists of suppliers to the
textile apparel sector and includes large multinational
fibre, yarn and fabric processors, finished product
manufacturers, garment manufacturers, high street
retailers, consumers, the legal profession, the police,
and regulatory testing organisations such as the local
authority Trading Standards departments.
Shirley is active across the world, providing testing
and certification services to many overseas producers
including companies throughout Asia, the Americas
and Europe.
We have two laboratories in the UK, one in Leeds and
the other in Manchester. Our offices are located in
Bangladesh, China, India, Kenya, Pakistan, Singapore,
Vietnam and the UK.
The staff responsible for the services offered by Shirley
have over 245 years of combined experience to draw
upon. Many of these staff have a close involvement in
the development of test methods and performance
specifications. Our staff sit on over 40 separate
standards committees, working groups and panels
and in many cases take on the role of UK Expert, Chair
or Convenor.
UKAS Accredited Laboratory Testing
Shirley works under ISO/IEC 17025 accreditation. Our
testing services are accredited by the United Kingdom
Accreditation Service (UKAS) and through them by the
International Laboratory Co-operation Scheme (ILAC)
Mutual Recognition Arrangement (MRA) thus ensuring
client confidence throughout the World.
t: +44 (0) 161 869 1610
3. 2
Physical and Chemical
Textile Testing
Shirley specialise in testing apparel in the form of garments,
fabric, yarns and fibres. Our scope of testing includes
European (EN), British (BS), International (ISO),
Australian and New Zealand (AS/NZS), Canadian and
American (ANSI, ASTM, AATCC) standards.
Our laboratories perform industry standard physical and
chemical tests on textiles and textile-related products
according to the strict principles of EN ISO 17025. Our
laboratories are accredited by UKAS for each individual
test featured on our Schedule of Accreditation. In addition,
the opinions and interpretations of test results offered
by our experts are similarly accredited, thereby ensuring
the quality of our technical support.
Our staff have a close involvement in the development
of test methods and our work is verified by participating
in regular interlaboratory trials.
Did you know? The Martindale Abrasion tester was
devised at WIRA by Dr J G Martindale. Its original use
was for testing carbon-impregnated cloth that was to
be used in connection with protection against gas
attack during the Second World War.
Shirley routinely offer the following tests:
· Physical tests on fibres including fineness,
length, crimp and strength;
· Physical tests on yarns including count,
strength, twist and levelness;
· Construction, structure and product
characteristics of fabrics;
· Physical tests on fabrics including strength,
tear resistance, thickness and mass;
· Wear tests on fabrics including Martindale
abrasion and resistance to pilling;
· Dimensional stability and durability of fabrics;
· Colour fastness of textiles;
· Phenolic yellowing of optically
brightened textiles;
· Fibre composition analysis;
· Optical microscopy for fibre identification, and
· Measurement of chemical properties, for
example, determination of pH, and conductivity
Other standard tests and non-standard test methodologies
are available and tests can be designed for clients with
products which have specific functional properties.
Our experts will be more than happy to discuss a specific
testing regime for any product or performance property
which may not fit within standard guidelines.
e: enquiries@shirleytech.co.uk w: www.shirleytech.co.uk
4. Analytical Chemistry Testing
3
Textile ecology can be generally categorised into four
areas - production ecology, performance ecology,
disposal ecology and human ecology. The first three
categories relate to the environmental effects of a
product's lifecycle, whereas human ecology considers
the effects on the user/wearer of the finished product.
Shirley can provide testing to a number of analytical
techniques in this latter category.
Shirley can offer specific testing and evaluation, to suit
the requirements of the client, which address the
toxicological properties of textiles and related products
through the presence of harmful substances. Our
knowledgeable team of experts can also advise on
testing requirements to ensure that your products are
fully compliant with current EC legislation relating to
textile ecology.
Our state-of-the-art instrument laboratory includes the
latest analytical equipment including GC/MS/MS,
HPLC/MS/MS, TDU, ICP-MS, UV-Vis, FTIR and DSC.
Amongst a wide range of other compounds we regularly
test for:
· Organotin compounds;
· Toxic heavy metal screening;
· PCP (pentachlorophenol) and other phenols;
· Banned azo dyes (aromatic amines);
· Allergenic disperse dyestuffs;
· Free, hydrolysed and released formaldehyde;
· Nickel testing to the Nickel Directive; and
· Phthalates in plastics and plastisol prints.
Volatile Emissions
Volatile organic compounds (VOC’s) consist of a broad
range of carbon-based chemicals that vaporise at
room temperature, and when in air predominantly exist
in the vapour phase. VOC’s contained in products tend
to diffuse to the surface and are emitted into the air
over time. When these emissions occur indoors, building
occupants are exposed via inhalation. VOC’s of potential
concern include formaldehyde, chronic systemic toxins
such as toluene, styrene, phenol, and naphthalene,
carcinogens, mutagens, and teratogens, sensory irritants
and odorants.
Shirley can perform a range of test methods for testing
VOC’s in products such as floor coverings, mattresses,
curtains, foams, automotive interiors and other textiles.
Principle - Samples are tested in an emission chamber
under controlled conditions. A measured volume of
sample air is collected from the emission test chamber
by drawing through sorbent tubes containing Tenax
sorbent. Volatile organic compounds are retained by
the sorbent tubes and the compounds are subsequently
analysed by thermal desorption gas chromatography
with mass selective detection (TD-GC/MS).
Requirements for VOC’s are listed in current International
standards and also in the Oeko-Tex® Standard 100
test methods.
t: +44 (0) 161 869 1610
5. 4
Skin Irritation Propensity Of Textiles
Shirley’s technical experts offer an extractable matter
screening assessment of textile apparel and soft furnishings
in cases where skin irritation by contact issues are
reported. Devised in partnership with leading high
street retailers, this assessment identifies the potential
presence of residual substances on textiles which may
give rise to irritation. Once identified, these substances
can be further investigated by more in-depth analysis
to assess whether a processing issue exists.
Restricted Chemical Substances
On Textile Soft Toys
The current EU Toy Safety Directive (2009/48/EC)
specifies a number of significant changes to safety
requirements of toys compared to the previous version.
As well as changes to requirements for physical and
mechanical properties, flammability properties and
documentation, this revision strengthens the requirements
for chemical properties. The four year transitional period
for adoption of the new Directive has now passed and
so this version is now the legal document covering toy
safety in the UK.
Shirley’s analytical chemistry capability includes the
following tests to the current EU Toy Safety Directive.
Soluble metal elements (toxicity)
Testing of textile soft toys and their components to
EN 71 Part 3. The latest version of this method has
expanded the requirements for restricted soluble metal
elements in soft toys from the original eight metals to
the current nineteen metals and compounds. The toy
component is extracted in simulated stomach acid
solvent and the extract liquor quantified for metal
elements using ICP-MS equipment, against ratified
and calibrated standards.
Organic chemical compounds
Testing of textile soft toys and their components to EN 71
Part 9, assessing the presence of the organic chemical
compounds listed in Table 1 of the standard. Samples
are prepared as in Part 10 of EN 71 and analysed and
quantified using methodologies as in Part 11.
e: enquiries@shirleytech.co.uk w: www.shirleytech.co.uk
6. Microbiological Testing
Services
5
Shirley offer a wide range of microbiological testing to
recognised global standards for textile and polymeric
products. Shirley are involved in microbiological testing
at all stages of product development and are committed
to the specialist needs of clients in terms of research
and development and technical support.
The Shirley laboratory holds accreditation to ISO
17025 for a large proportion of our microbiological
tests so clients can be assured of the high quality
required for work of this technical nature.
Antibacterial Evaluation & Testing
Shirley offer tests to assess the efficacy and durability of
antibacterial textiles and polymeric products treated with
antibacterial finishes or that have inherent antibacterial
properties. Products tested range from household textiles,
intimate apparel, sportswear, bedding, carpets, plastics
and rubber products. Testing methods comprise:
• Qualitative assessment establishing the
presence of an antibacterial function.
• Quantitative assessment to measure the
effectiveness of the antibacterial product.
Antifungal Evaluation & Testing
Microfungi can cause deterioration of a product in terms
of performance loss, structural degradation and loss of
appearance and aesthetics. Shirley’s testing facilities offer
various evaluation methods of the effect of microfungi on
textiles and polymeric products. Products tested range
from household textiles, leather, plastic or rubber
products, sandbags, tents, tarpaulins, shoe linings,
carpets, geotextiles and electrical components.
Assessment can be a combination of visual assessment,
zone measurement and tensile strength measurements.
Testing methods comprise:
• Mildew and rot susceptibility,
• Soil burial testing, and
• Antifungal activity of hygienic finishes.
Additional Testing
In addition to the above we are able to offer microbiological
tests in respect of:
• Resistance of medical protective clothing
to penetration of blood-borne pathogens,
and to both wet and dry bacteria;
• Sterility and bioburden testing to quantify
the level of micro-organisms on products; and
• Cleanliness of fillings, stuffing and wadding
materials for bedding and soft furnishings
t: +44 (0) 161 869 1610
7. Degradative
Exposures
6
It is important that textile and related polymeric products
conform to their proposed function for the whole of their
likely lifecycle. Any degradative effect of use conditions
can serve to weaken the material, or indeed degrade it
so completely so that it loses its function entirely. This
is a significant issue for materials designed to be in situ for
significant periods of time. Examples of outdoor textiles
wouldincludegardenfurnitureandflexibleoutdoorstructures
such as marquees, commercial roofing and awnings, and
examples of geotextiles and geotextile-related products
would include banking support infra-structures and
landfill liners.
Weathering & Light Exposure
Shirley offer exposure testing using QUV equipment,
which conforms to EN ISO 4892-3 and to a large number
of associated non-UK methods and product
specifications. This testing replicates the degradative
effect of the ultraviolet portion of the spectrum of natural
light on polymeric materials, often in conjunction with
moisture in the form of condensation or direct water
spray. The testing is normally carried out for one of the
following reasons:
• To determine basic performance of new
product developments
• To estimate the likely lifecycle of products
to use conditions
• To determine conformance to existing
product specifications
• To investigate product failure
Other Exposures
In addition to weathering and light exposures, Shirley
can also offer degradative exposure testing of the
following types:
• Effect of synthetic leachates on landfill liners;
• Effect of immersion in acid, alkali or
specified liquids;
• Hydrolysis and leaching of geotextiles and
similar products;
• Oxidation of geotextiles and similar products;
• Exposure to elevated conditions of heat
and/or humidity
e: enquiries@shirleytech.co.uk w: www.shirleytech.co.uk
8. Technical & Investigative
Services
7
The technical experts of Shirley offer an exceptional
problem solving and investigation service combined
with highly-specialised knowledge in textile-related
physical, chemical and analytical testing. Shirley can assist
with the investigation, research, testing and resolution of
any manner of issue, whether relating to production
processing or to final product, for example:
• Investigation into consumer product complaints;
• Safety assessments of consumer products
and compliance to Regulations;
• Investigation into material processing
complaints;
• Identification of physical faults,
contaminants, spots and stains;
• Formulation or process errors in production
and finishing;
• Coating, finish and polymer analysis;
• Product characterisation;
• Fitness for purpose challenges;
• Patent infringement;
• Police (forensic) investigations and
case analysis.
For technical investigations of this type, Shirley will consult
with the client to obtain a detailed background of the
issue and obtain suitable documented evidence.
Suitable and representative test samples will be
discussed and presented for comprehensive testing
and investigation in our accredited laboratories. On
completion a detailed technical report will be prepared,
containing comments, conclusions, opinions and
interpretations relevant to the resolution of the issue.
The process is two-way with complete client involvement
at all stages, including follow-up work as necessary.
Expert Witness Services
Shirley has an established track record in providing
expert witness services to a range of clients, including
manufacturers, suppliers, solicitors, law enforcement
and domestic consumers. Our expert witness service
can be used in a wide range of situations, those listed
earlier are the more common examples.
For a number of years, our organisation has provided
qualified technical evidence in a range of civil and
criminal cases, including evidence in court, as well
as in relation to business-to-business disputes such
as patent infringement challenges. This service is
often required as a necessary conclusion to a technical
investigation, where the Shirley report can often lead
to court action for resolution.
Shirley experts are trained using the CUBS scheme
operated by Bond Solon, with regular CPD activities
and retraining to ensure continued qualification.
Expert Witness Institute
Both Shirley and Ian Strudwick are members of the
Expert Witness Institute (www.ewi.org.uk) and follow
the strict code of conduct set by the Institute in
providing this service.
t: +44 (0) 161 869 1610
9. 8
Due Diligence
In today's increasingly demanding business climate,
manufacturers and retailers must be confident that their
products will stand up to the tightest scrutiny not just
from their competitors, but also from the increasingly
discerning consumer, who is nowadays more likely to
challenge any purchases which fall below expectations.
Not only must products be "fit for purpose" and comply
with the necessary safety and manufacturing legislation,
but they should also meet the expectations of the end user,
not least in terms of product serviceability and lifetime.
The European Directive concerning General Product
Safety now means that the safety of all products has to
be considered before they are placed on the market.
Suppliers should ensure that they have evaluated their
products sufficiently to be able to demonstrate, possibly
to a court if challenged, that reasonable “Due Diligence”
has been undertaken in terms of testing and to ultimately
be able to defend the integrity of their products.
Shirley can assist in providing a range of information to
assist clients with their consumer product testing in this
area including:
• Advice on legal compliance;
• Independent and objective testing protocols
to existing methodologies;
• Development of suitable testing protocols
for products where none exist;
• Durability and ageing studies to determine
product serviceability and life-time;
• Recommendations for "in-use" conditions.
Bespoke Technical Seminars
Shirley offers a bespoke technical seminar service - our
expert(s) are made available to the client for a fixed
period. This involves Shirley’s expert(s) visiting the
client premises to make their knowledge available
to the client’s representatives, as a ‘question and
answer’ session.
Shirley expert(s) will provide as much technical
information and as many answers to questions as
possible during the seminar, and will follow up
unanswered questions by subsequent research and
communication.
e: enquiries@shirleytech.co.uk w: www.shirleytech.co.uk
10. REACH SVHC
Certification
9
REACH (Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and
Restriction of Chemicals) is a regulation of the European
Union on chemicals and their safe use, adopted to improve
the protection of human health and the environment
from the risks that can be posed by chemicals. It also
promotes alternative methods for the hazard assessment
of substances in order to reduce the number of tests
on animals. REACH replaces numerous EU Directives
related to chemicals and is complementary to other
environmental and safety legislation but does not
replace sector specific legislation.
REACH directly applies in all member states of the
European Union and is policed by the European
Chemicals Agency (ECHA).
Substances of Very High Concern (SVHC)
These are substances that may have potentially very
serious and often irreversible effects on humans and
the environment.
They have been identified by national competent
authorities, or by ECHA, to be considered for
authorisation by REACH. Such substances go onto
the Candidate List. If the substance is subsequently
authorised then it is included in Annex XIV of the
REACH regulation. In this case then a supplier will have
42-48 months to replace the relevant substance(s) with
an alternative. The Candidate List is updated regularly
by the ECHA to provide ongoing assessment.
Obligations
Suppliers of a product containing a substance that
appears on the SVHC list in a concentration above
0.1% weight by weight shall provide their customers
with sufficient information to allow safe use of the product.
It is the responsibility of suppliers based in the EU to
ensure that any textile products, including chemicals
used in their manufacture, whether they have been
produced outside or within the EU, have been evaluated
to ensure they are REACH compliant.
It is the responsibility of suppliers based outside of
the European Union to inform EU based purchasers
of substances of very high concern within the products
that are supplied to them.
Shirley’s REACH SVHC
Certification Scheme
Shirley is an ISO 17025 laboratory. It is therefore able
to assist textile manufacturers, and companies supplying
products and chemicals used in textiles (e.g. detergents,
pigments, dyes, plastisols), to determine whether the
products they are producing contain SVHC, and if they
do, at what levels. The Shirley scheme allows clients
to tell their customers that they have had an independent
third party formal assessment performed to ensure that
their products are REACH compliant.
The Certificate provided is valid for a period of one
year, or until the SVHC list is updated to include new
substances.
t: +44 (0) 161 869 1610
11. Textile Ecology
Certification
10
Shirley is the designated UK Institute for the testing and
certification to Oeko-Tex®
Standard 100 and associated
certification schemes.
Oeko-Tex®
Standard100Certification
Oeko-Tex®
Standard 100 is an independent testing and
certification system for textile raw materials, intermediate
and end products, from fibres through to finished garments,
home textiles and includes accessories such as labels,
threads and buttons used on finished products.
The testing carried out under Oeko-Tex®
Standard 100
includes a range of substances, some are banned or
regulated by law, some are known to be harmful to
health and others are less harmful but are still included
to safeguard health. The Standard 100 aims to go beyond
existing national and international requirements and as
such is continually updated and improved. Oeko-Tex®
testing for harmful substances is always based on the
intended use of the textile.
STeP by Oeko-Tex®
Certification
STeP by Oeko-Tex®
is a certification system issued by
the Oeko-Tex®
International Association that includes
audited assessment and testing against criteria and
methods for sustainable, environmentally and socially
responsible textile and apparel facilities (production sites).
The certification addresses the reduction of hazards and
risks across the entire textile production chain.
STeP allows globally operating brands and retail companies
to search for suitable suppliers worldwide who meet
their demands regarding environmental protection and
socialresponsibilitytoenablethemtoclearlyandcompletely
document their sustainability commitment.
MySTeP by Oeko-Tex®
MySTeP by Oeko-Tex®
is the central database of Oeko-Tex®
and is an easy to use desktop system designed to enhance
traceability and transparency within the textile supply
chain, incentivise continuous improvement and build
more efficient processes for the future. The database is
designed for brands, retailers and manufacturers to
allow them to manage their own supply chains whether
or not they are Oeko-Tex®
certified.
Made In Green by Oeko-Tex®
Certification
Made in Green by Oeko-Tex®
is an independent textile
label for highlighting consumer products and semi-finished
products at all levels of the textile chain that are:
• Manufactured from materials tested for
harmful substances
• Manufactured with environmentally
friendly processes
• Manufactured under safe and socially
responsible working conditions
The Made in Green label is available to registered
companies subsequent to proof that the products are
free from harmful substances when tested to Oeko-Tex®
Standard 100. In addition proof is required that the
production conditions are environmentally friendly and
socially responsible, which is provided through an
extensive assessment and company audit in line with
STeP by Oeko-Tex®
.
Eco Passport by Oeko-Tex®
Eco Passport by Oeko-Tex®
is a verification procedure
by which manufacturers of textile processing chemicals
and chemical compounds, such as dyes, performance
additives, finishing agents, lubricants, detergents, etc.,
are able to confirm that their products can be used in
sustainable textile production. Products that pass are
granted the Eco Passport by Oeko-Tex®
certification
which indicates that the certified textile chemical is safe
to use in Oeko-Tex®
Standard 100 certified textile products
and in STeP by Oeko-Tex®
certified manufacturing facilities.
e: enquiries@shirleytech.co.uk w: www.shirleytech.co.uk
12. Shirley (Manchester)
Unit 11, Westpoint Enterprise Park
Clarence Avenue, Trafford Park
Manchester, M17 1QS, UK
T: +44 (0) 161 869 1610
E: enquiries@shirleytech.co.uk
W: www.shirleytech.co.uk
Registered office:
Shirley Technologies Limited
Wira House, West Park Ring Road
Leeds, LS16 6QL, UK
Company number:
04669651
Overseas offices:
Bangladesh, China, India, Kenya
Pakistan, Singapore and Vietnam
Please refer to our website for detailed location information
Shirley (Leeds)
Wira House, West Park Ring Road
Leeds, LS16 6QL, UK
T: +44 (0) 113 259 1999
E: enquiries@shirleytech.co.uk
W: www.shirleytech.co.uk
