2. Denim & it’s Weave
Fun Fact:
Weave is the method or process of interlacing two yarn or
similar material so that they cross each other at particular
angle to produce woven fabric .
Introduction:
⚫ Denim is a rugged cotton twill textile, in which the weft passes under two or more warp
threads. Denim is the most popular pieces of clothing in the world. In 1969 a writer for
American Fabrics magazine declared, "Denim is one of the world's oldest fabrics, yet it
remains eternally young. “
⚫ Denims are hard wearing, high density fabric with a higher mass per unit area. At least
225 pair of denim jeans can be made from one bale of cotton. Denim is made from 48%
of the world's cotton. Denim fabric was unique in its connection with one color - blue.
www.ngtex.in
Courtesy:
3. Traditional Denim weave
Traditionally, denim fabric is
3/1 warp-faced twill fabric made
from a yarn-dyed warp and an
undyed weft yarn and the warp yarn
is indigo-dyed. Over theyears,
many different denim fabric weaves
have been used, including Dobby,
Jacquard, cross
hatch depending upon the
performance, appearance and feel
requirement of end product.
www.ngtex.in
Courtesy:
4. Three by one weave
⚫ 3x1 weave refers to the numberof
weft threads per warp thread, in
which three threads cross every
one (hence, 3×1 weave).Denims
that have heavier weights (over
10.5 Oz / square yard) are 3×1
weaves, especially compared to
denim with a 2×1 weave (under
10.5 Oz /square yard).
www.ngtex.in
Courtesy:
5. LHT-Left hand Twill
⚫ Left Hand Twill weave runs diagonally
from right to left, which produces
denim that is a bit softer than RHT.
Left hand twill are also more desirable
due to the strength and durability. Right
hand twills have the tendency to
stretch out and stay baggy until
washed. However washing in a sense
resets the fabric.
2 Twill Weaves variations
www.ngtex.in
Courtesy:
6. ⚫ RHT refers to the direction in which
denim is woven. The opposite of
Left Hand twill, this weave is much
more common, as almost all jeans
are woven with right hand twill. The
weft (filler) threads is visible in
upward-right diagonal lines on
right-hand twill jeans. This type of
twill weave runs diagonally from left
to right, which produces flatter and
smootherdenim.
RHT-Right hand Twill
www.ngtex.in
Courtesy:
7. One by one Chambray Denim
⚫ Chambray is a plain (1 x 1 weave)
woven denim fabric often woven
in checkered or striped patterns.
www.ngtex.in
Courtesy:
8. Two by one weave Chambray
Denim
⚫ 2x1 Weave refers to the number of
weft threads per warp thread. Most
denims have been traditionally 3x1
weaves, though lighter weight
denims (under10.5 ounces/square
yard) often use the 2x1
configuration.
www.ngtex.in
Courtesy:
9. Satin Denim
⚫ Satin is a basic weave
construction with the
interlacing of the threads so
arranged that the face of the
cloth is covered with warp
yarn or filling yarn and no
twill line is distinguishable.
The satin weave denim is
distinguished by its lustrous,
or 'silky', appearance.
www.ngtex.in
Courtesy:
10. Broken Twill Denim weave
⚫ In Broken twill denim Instead of the
twill running left or right, broken
twill contains no distinct direction
and instead alternates right and left
the end effect resembles a random
zig-zag pattern.
www.ngtex.in
Courtesy:
11. Chinoo denim
⚫ Chinoo is tightly woven 2
ply right hand 3×1
combed cotton twill
fabric. Chinoo is high in
demand and featured in
upcoming season by
renowned fashion
houses
www.ngtex.in
Courtesy:
12. Cross hatch Denim
⚫ Cross hatch is a unique type of
denim that shows a square grid-like
pattern in the weave. It is created by
mixing uneven yarns in both the
weft and a warp direction. It is a
more rare type of denim and
develops a unique crisscrossed
pattern as it fades and is available in
below mentioned combination of
weight, width, colors etc
www.ngtex.in
Courtesy:
13. Dobby Denim
⚫ Dobby is a weaving method in which
the warp threads are raised and
lowered throughout the weaving
process to form small geometric
figures. Dobbydenim fabrics are
used mainly for high fashion
garments, top wearand home décor
and are distinguishable by their
unique textures.
www.ngtex.in
Courtesy:
14. Herringbone weave Denim
⚫ Herringbone weave, also known
as “chevron weave”, has a
distinctive V shaped pattern that
resembles a herring’s skeleton.
www.ngtex.in
Courtesy:
15. Jacquard Denim
⚫ With jacquard any combination of
weaves and pattern is possible since
each warp is individually controlled
with each pick passage. Due to its
attractive and decorative appeal it is
used in high fashion garments as well
as furnishing and upholstery.
www.ngtex.in
Courtesy:
16. Matt weave
The simplestof all patterns is the
plain weave. Each
weftyarn goes alternately over and
under one warp
yarn. Each warpyarn goes alternately
over and
under each weft yarn.
Matt Weave or Basket weave:
here, two or more yarns are used in
both the warp and filling direction.
Thesegroups of yarns are woven as
one,
producing a basket effect.
www.ngtex.in
Courtesy:
17. Selvedge Denim
Initially known as ‘self-edge’,
the selvedge is the narrow, tightly woven
band on both edges of
the denim fabric. A selvedge end prevents
the edge of the denim from unraveling and
shows a clean, finished look. Selvedge
colorvaries with the brand and producer.
Selvedge denim are made out of denim
woven on an old-style shuttle loom with a
continuous weft and a narrow width
(usually around thirty inches).Today,
selvage denim is valued for its irregularities
and character, and is typically more
expensive than regular denim.
18. COLLECTION NOTE:
Zaha Hadid architectural aesthetic exhibits fluidity and sharp angles holding
futuristic vision collaborating with the muse of art nouveau gives me the freedom
of exploring more flowy nature of the fabric and experimenting with curves. Zaha
Hadid Architecture are one of the finest examples of futuristic design and keeping
in mind then I'm has to be also utilized in the future looking at what it has been
serving from the decades. Future of fashion cannot be imagined without the
contribution of denim, hence it's an attempt to bring denim fabrics into more
luxurious and high end category of clothing.
Zaha Hadid Art Nouvea
