1. 至美鞋业
卡奴标准制作流程
Canoe SOP(Suede/Nappa)
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核准：Teddy Bai 审核：Tyle Zhang ,Jin Hou Hu
J Y You ,Song Qiang Z 制表：xiao qing
2. Cutting and Skiving裁断
客户：Manitobah 鞋型号：Canoe 削边 Skiving
部位Parts L5 L6 L7 L8 L9 L10 L11
1 左/右鞋面Left/Right Foot — — — — — — — 后跟削5MM出尾1.2MM Heel end
2 左/右鞋盖 L/R Vamp — — — — — — —
3 领口 Collar — — — — — — —
4 鞋带 Lace — — — — — — —
5 左/右鞋垫 L/R Insole — — — — — — —
6 鞋盖内衬 vamp linging — — — — — — —
1 2 3 4
5 6 7 8
核准： 审核： 制表：刘利君
3. Preparing process
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2.贴鞋面补强 Backing lining on vamp. 3.鞋盖内衬与鞋盖车和 Sewing vamp/lining.
1.鞋面发外绣珠 Vamp Beading.
必须要直并且紧 位置正确，不能有包风脱落情形。 内衬车于鞋盖背面时内缩1MM,针距2MM.
Must be tight and straight Must be right at positing. Sewing edge 2mm.1mm between edges
Follow the pattern as requested No air buble or gap. of vamp and linging.
4.画线 Marking on vamp. 5.大底打粗 Outsole roughing
用银笔，与纸板必须对齐 打粗要均匀，橡胶表面要完全破坏
Marking sewing position with water Rouging evenly and skining off
based pen. surface of rubber.
核准： 审核： 制表：
4. Sewing process
Needle Thread # Sewing edge SOP Page:5
针型号 线型 边距 针距 备注
1 缩腰 Sewing waist split. 箭尾针 210D/3 1.5-2MM 9-8 stitches /1 " 平车
2 后跟缝合 Heel sewing. 箭尾针 210D/3 3MM 9-8 stitches /1 " 平车
3 锤平后跟 Hammering closed seam.
4 缝鞋面马克线 Toe Lacing 手缝针 300D/16 6—5 stitches /1 "
5 缝后跟马克线 Heel lacing 手缝针 300D/16 6—5 stitches /1 "
6 车领口 Collar attachemnt. 箭尾针 210D/3 2MM 9-8 stitches /1 " 高头车
7 穿鞋带 Adding lace.
8 在鞋垫上车商标 Content/country original label attaching. 箭尾针 210D/3 2MM 9-8 stitches /1 " 平车
9 车产地标 Sewing size /brand label on insole. 箭尾针 210D/3 2MM 9-8 stitches /1 " 平车
1. 2. 3 4
5 6. 7. 8
9 10
核准： 审核： 制表：刘利君
5. Lasting 攀鞋
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备注 Treatment:
1 整理，配料 matching pair and sorting last.
2 蒸湿 Miostering upper. 5秒，110度 5 second. Temperature .110 degree Celsis
3 套楦 Placing proper last into upper.
4 入楦 Lasting.
5 鞋头后跟高度内外腰定位 Control height of in/out ball ,toe and and heel.
and check height of in/outtoe heel.
6 过锤 Tapering upper evenly against last.
7 夹马克线 Trimming lacing shape.
8 品检 Inspetion
9 加硫定型 Forming in moistering, heatingm , and vaccuming oven. 18分钟，130度 18 minutes, 130C
10 画线 Marking lasted upper for roughing, premiering, and cementing.
11 打粗（绒面革不用打粗）Roughing ( suede doesn't apply to roughing).
1 2. 3 4
5 6 7 8
9 10 12
11
6. Cementing 擦胶
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备注
1 刷鞋底处理剂 Primering rubber out sole.
2 刷鞋面处理剂 Primering bottom of lasted upper.
3 过烤箱 Drying in heat tunnel. 实际温度60度，3分钟 60 C ,3 minutes
4 刷一次胶 First coat cmenting.
5 过烤箱 Activating and drying cement. 实际温度60度，3分钟 60 C ,3 minutes
6 刷二次胶 Second coat of cement.
7 过烤箱 Final activation of cement. 实际温度80度，3分钟 80 C, 3 minutes.
1 2 3 4
5 6 7 8
核准： 审核： 制表：刘利君
7. Sole laying 贴底
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备注
1 贴底 Sole laying.
2 压底 Pressing. 8秒钟，25公斤压力 8 second, 25KGS/per inch
3 手压后跟 Hammering on heel.
4 冷却 Cooling(post curing). 1分钟，—5度 I minute, below -5 C
5 脱楦 De-lasting
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5
核准： 审核： 制表：刘利君
8. Packing 包装整理
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备注
1 清洁 Cleaning and pairing.
2 刷胶 Gluing on insole.
3 过烤箱 Drying and activting. 45度，3分钟
4 放鞋垫 Placing insole.
5 放纸团 Shaping up toe by tissue and body by insert.
6 整理清洁 Inspection and final cleaning.
7 放吊牌 Tagging.
8 包装Packing.
1 2
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5 6 7 8
核准： 审核： 制表：刘利君
