Sop Harvester Final Edition2. Cutting and Skiving裁断
客户:Manitobah 鞋型号:Tall Suede Mukluk 削边 Skiving Page:2
部位Parts L5 L6 L7 L8 L9 L10 L11
1 左/右鞋面Left/Right Foot — — — — — — — 后跟削5MM出尾1.2MM
2 左/右鞋盖 L/R Vamp — — — — — — —
3 鞋舌 Collar — — — — — — —
4 鞋带 Lace — — — — — — —
5 左/右鞋垫 L/R Insole — — — — — — —
6 鞋盖内衬 vamp linging — — — — — — —
7 上口流苏 Collar fringe — — — — — — 上边削5MM出尾1.2MM
8 鞋身 Qarter — — — — — — —
9 后跟条 Back central strip — — — — — — — 3 上边削5MM出尾1.2MM
1 2 3 4
5 6 7 8
9 10 11 12
核准: 审核: 制表:刘利君
3. Preparing process
Page:3
2.贴鞋面补强 Backing lining on vamp. 4.大底打粗 Outsole roughing
1.鞋面发外绣珠 Vamp Beading.
必须要直并且紧 位置正确,不能有包风脱落情形。 打粗要均匀,橡胶表面要完全破坏
Must be tight and straight Must be right at positing. Rouging evenly and skining off
Follow the pattern as requested No air buble or gap. surface of rubber.
5. Sewing process
Needle Thread # Sewing edge SOP Page:4
流程 Processes 针型号 线型 边距 针距 备注
1 缩腰 Sewing waist split. 箭尾针 210D/3 1.5-2MM 9-8 stitches /1 " 平车
2 后跟拼缝 Zigzagging heel. 箭尾针 210D/3 3MM 9-8 stitches /1 " 万能车
3 后跟下缘合缝 Overlapping counter and heel. 箭尾针 210D/3 3MM 9-8 stitches /1 " 高头车
4 缝鞋面马克线 Toe Lacing 手缝针 300D/16 6-5 stitches /1 " 高头车
5 内外腰鞋身缝合 Quarter and collar sewing overlapping. 箭尾针 210D/3 6-5 stitches /1 " 万能车
6 车后跟条 Overlapping heel center strip. 箭尾针 210D/3 9-8 stitches /1 " 高头车
7 鞋身与上口流苏车合 Collar fringe sewing. 箭尾针 210D/3 2MM 9-8 stitches /1 " 高头车
8 车上口流苏 Folding and locking sewing on fringe. 箭尾针 210D/3 2MM 9-8 stitches /1 " 高头车
9 鞋身与底部车双线 Vamp and vamp bottom sewing. 箭尾针 210D/3 2MM 9-8 stitches /1 " 高头车
10 鞋舌与鞋身车合(起收针倒针至少4针)Tongue attachement. 箭尾针 210D/3 2MM 9-8 stitches /1 " 高头车
11 在鞋垫上车商标 Content/country original label attaching. 箭尾针 210D/3 2MM 9-8 stitches /1 " 平车
12 车产地标 Sewing size /brand label on insole. 箭尾针 210D/3 2MM 9-8 stitches /1 " 平车
1. 2. 3 4
5 6. 7. 8
9 10 11 12
6. Lasting 攀鞋
备注 Treatment: Page:4
1 整理,配料 matching pair and sorting last.
2 蒸湿 Miostering upper. 5秒,110度 5 second. Temperature .110 degree Celsis
3 套楦 Placing proper last into upper.
4 入楦 Lasting.
5 鞋头后跟高度内外腰定位 Control height of in/out ball ,toe and and heel.
and check height of in/outtoe heel.
6 过锤 Tapering upper evenly against last.
7 夹马克线 Trimming lacing shape.
8 品检 Inspetion
9 加硫定型 Forming in moistering, heatingm , and vaccuming oven. 18分钟,130度 18 minutes, 130C
10 画线 Marking lasted upper for roughing, premiering, and cementing.
11 打粗(绒面革不用打粗)Roughing ( suede doesn't apply to roughing).
1 2. 3 4
5 6 7 8
9 10 12
11
核准: 审核: 制表:刘利君
7. Cementing 擦胶
Page:6
备注
1 刷鞋底处理剂 Primering rubber out sole.
2 刷鞋面处理剂 Primering bottom of lasted upper.
3 过烤箱 Drying in heat tunnel. 实际温度60度,3分钟 60 C ,3 minutes
4 刷一次胶 First coat cmenting.
5 过烤箱 Activating and drying cement. 实际温度60度,3分钟 60 C ,3 minutes
6 刷二次胶 Second coat of cement.
7 过烤箱 Final activation of cement. 实际温度80度,3分钟 80 C, 3 minutes.
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5 6 7 8
核准: 审核: 制表:刘利君
8. Sole laying 贴底
Page:7
备注
贴底 Sole laying.
1
2 压底 Pressing. 8秒钟,25公斤压力 8 second, 25KGS/per inch
手压后跟 Hammering on heel.
3
4 冷却 Cooling(post curing). 1分钟,—5度 I minute, below zero 5 C
5 脱楦 De-lasting
1 2 3 4
5
核准: 审核: 制表:刘利君
9. Packing 包装整理
Page:8
1 清洁 Cleaning and pairing.
2 鞋垫配双 Matching up insole.
3 鞋垫和鞋内刷胶 Gluing on insole.
4 过烤箱 Drying and activting. 60-70度,2分钟
5 放鞋垫 Placing insole.
6 第一次品检 inspection.
7 放鞋头和鞋身纸撑+码数章 Insert and size marker.
8 整理 Inspection
9 挂吊牌 Tagging.
10 总品检 Final inspection.
11 配盒贴条码标 Labeling.
12 小包装(分码放包装纸,干燥剂,备用鞋带,小册子)Value add tagging.
13 贴红色标签 innerbox label.
14 大包装 Packing
1 .
2 3 .
4
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9 10 11 12
13 14
核准: 审核: 制表:刘利君