Bagbani gardening hb

Capt.Retd.)SKBhandari
2010
BAGBANIGARDENINGHANDBOOK
A Gardening Hand Book for the Novice.
A gardeners’ companion. Reading it will make you a
master gardener.
Agro Synergy & Floriculture Consortium
16, Chakrata Road, Dehra Dun 248001
Mobile +91 9358525643
Email asfic@rediffmail.com

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Dedicated
To
My respected mother
Shrimati Sushila Bhandari
(7.10.1910-8.11.2010)

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BAGBANI GARDENING HAND BOOK
INDEX
Subject Page
Introduction to gardening 3
A Healthy Plant’s Requirements Water Requirement 4
How to Judge If A Plant Needs Water 4
Humidity 4
Food and Air 5
Liquid Fertilisers 5,6
What to Grow - Herbs 6,7
-Palms 8,9
-Dracaens ,Cordyline & Yucca 9,10
-Ferns 10
-Ficus 11
-Arums 11
-Flowers 12
-SEASONAL PLANTS (ANNUALS) WINTER BLOOMS 12,13,14, 15
-SEASONAL FLOWERS (ANNUALS) SUMMER BLOOMS 16
-FLOWERING CLIMBERS (PERMANENT CREEPERS) 17
-FLOWERING BULBS – Summer and Rain season 18,19
-Plant Care 19,20
-Grooming And Care 20
-Cleaning Leaves 20
-Looking After Flowers 20
-Trimming Steams and Shoots 21
-Hoeing 21
-Weeding 21
-Stopping 21
-Dead heading 21
-Top dressing 21,22
-Nutrient needs of flowers 22
-PROPAGATION 22
-Sowing seeds 23
-Sowing Seeds - Procedure 23
-Repotting of Seedlings 24
-Dividing Plants 24
-Dividing Procedure 24
-Layering 25
-Tip layering 25
-Air layering 25
-Runners 25
-Stem-Tip Cutting 26
-Indoor Hanging Baskets 27
-Planting an Indoor Hanging Basket 27
-Foliage plants for indoor hanging-baskets 27
-Grouping Plants in Hanging-Baskets 28
- Indoor Plants 28,29,30,31
-Vegetables 33,34
-Companion Plants 35,36,37,38
-Lawns 39,40,41
-Soil pH Ranges 42
-Garden Layouts 45 - 55

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BAGBANIHAND BOOK OF GARDENING
Capt. (Retd.) Satish Kumar Bhandari
09358525643 mailto:asfic@rediffmail.com
Introduction
The joy of growing something be it a flower plant, a vegetable, a fruit tree, a shrub, or a
climber can be experienced only by a gardener. If we see, around us, there thousands of
people growing plants and every day many more join the lucky group of gardeners. Some of
the advantages of home gardening are, to breath fresh air all day long, refreshing aroma
from the flowers, home grown vegetables etc. Most important is the exercise it provides to
the gardener.
In this Gardening hand book, you will learn about 'Home Gardening’.
Plants which are ideal for the home garden. Both outdoors as well as indoors and how to
take care for their proper growth.
Some of the subjects covered are —
· Plants, their watering and feeding needs.
· Growing your own plants from seeds.
· Growing plants from cuttings, grafting, air layer grafting and leaf rooting methods.
· Flowers and their growing season.
· Common house flowering plants and their growing season.
· Common house vegetable plants and their growing season.
· Plant care.
· Gardening tips.

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 A Healthy Plant’s Requirements
Water Requirement
Most plants like to be watered only after their soil dries out. Excess water causes
root rot, which causes the plant to decay, so always be sure to wait until your plant
is thirsty before you water it. Plants absorb water from the soil, through their small,
hair-like root. The water moves into lager roots and from there to the stems and
finally to the leaves. Too little water is the cause of wilting of leaves & flowers which
first droop and later become crisp and brown.
Each plant has its own need for water, some requiring more than others. Large
plants need more water than small ones. Also, plants need less water in winter than
in summer, because in winters the soil remains moist for a longer period. As a result
during winters the plants may need no watering for a number of consecutive days,
whereas in summers, the watering may have to be as frequent as twice a day.
Whenever watering is undertaken, it must be thorough. Frequent inadequate
watering draws surface roots to the top, causes rapid transpiration and exhausts the
plant.
Watering must be done in the early morning or in the evening when the soil around
the pot is not hot. Should watering become necessary during the bright sunshine,
the pot should be removed to shade the soil allowed to cool down, before the plant is
watered. All flowering plant needs generous watering when the buds are forming and
it is in full bloom.
 How to Judge If A Plant Needs Water
The experienced gardener know that more houseplants die through being excessively
or insufficiently watered than from any other reason? To judge if a plant in a pot
needs water rub a finger or thumb on the potting soil to assess its moisture content.
Another simple way of understanding the plant's need for water is by observing the
colour of the soil in the pot. When the soil is dry it becomes pale and it crumbles, but
if wet, it is dark in colour. Eventually, most houseplant gardeners use this method to
assess the need of water.
 Humidity
Most houseplants are tropical plants and come from places where the humidity (the
amount of moisture in the air) is as high as 70, 80 or even 90 percent. The amount
of moisture in the air influences the health and growth of plants. Deserts cacti in hot
regions have thick outer layers that reduce the amount of moisture they give off.
Most plants however, need a humid atmosphere to prevent their leaves and stem
becoming dry. Spraying them regularly with water from a spray bottle or sprinkling
water on the leaves; or setting them on a tray or a plastic saucer filled with pebbles
and water, will increase the humidity around the plants and helps raise the humidity

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Don't Spray Water
1) When the sun is shining. Water globules act as lenses, intensifying the sun's rays
and burning leaves.
2) During evenings, especially in autumn & winter as wet leaves attract pests and
disease germs.
The plants should be given Mist-spray in the morning, so that the moisture has a
chance to dry before the onset of night.
Grouping of Plants create Humid Atmosphere
By placing plants in groups a humid micro-climate (a small area with high humidity)
can be created around them. Moisture given off from the surfaces of leaves is
trapped. When a plant is displayed on its own, moisture soon evaporate.
Keeping the Atmosphere Humid
Regularly mist-spray smooth-surfaced leaves in summer. However, take care not to
spray water on flowers, as they then soon decay. Place a piece of plastic sheet in
front of the flowers while spraying. A few plants such as philodendrons and the Swiss
Cheese Plant must be mist-sprayed in summer to prevent them from becoming dry
and hard.
Excessive Humidity
1) Soft leaves soon decay, especially if hairy. Moisture becomes trapped around the
hair on the leaves.
2) Leaves that are close to the stems create traps for water.
3) Flower petals, especially when tightly packed together, become covered with a
furry mould.
4) Plants with masses of soft leaves closely packed together become infested with
decay.
 Food and Air
The soil of plants must be "well enriched‖, which means that the soil should be rich
enough for the growth of the plant and able to retain the moisture. The soil may be
enriched by adding organic and inorganic manures .Organic manure is manure made
from wastes of plants and animals (decomposed leaves and cow dung). Inorganic
manure is made chemically and is, therefore also known as chemical fertiliser.
The manure is added to the soil in the plants, three to four times in a year. Once
before winters, then before the onset of summers and again before the rainy season.
The soil is loosened a little by digging and the manure is put around the plant on top
of the soil. While digging the soil, take care not to damage the roots.
The day you loosen the soil, do not water the plant. The interval between loosening
and watering of soil helps in the aeration of roots and absorption of water from a
greater depth.
Fresh air should be able to circulate in the rooms where, indoor plants are placed in,
even if it's only through the wire mesh of the windows.
 Liquid Fertilisers
A Chemical or Organic Concentrated fertilisers when dissolved in water are called
liquid fertilizers. These are applied to the potting compost at ten to fourteen-day
intervals during summer.

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If the potting compost is dry, first water it. This is because when it is dry there is a
risk of the fertilizer damaging the roots. Also, if it is dry the soil-ball contracts and
leaves a gap around the inside of the pot, through which water and fertiliser will
escape and be wasted.
Thoroughly agitate the water, ensuring that the fertilizer is completely mixed. Apply
this before it gets settled at the bottom of the container.
 What To Grow
Herbs
An Herb Garden for your kitchen as this will flavor the dishes cooked by you and
make them palatable. Some of the easiest herbs to grow in your garden are:
Coriander (Hara Dhaniya):
1. Crush 2-3 tsp of coriander seeds (saboot dhaniya) with the foot by placing on a
piece of paper, so as to divide each seed into 2 parts.
2. Dig the soil in a pot to loosen it.
3. Sprinkle seeds. Gently mix them with the fingers with the soil. Some get mixed
and some show on top.
4. Water generously. Cover with a transparent polythene and place in a warm,
lighted place.
5. Now water only when the soil turns dry.
6. The seedlings take about 15 days to come out.
7. Once the seedlings are out, take care to protect them from the birds.
Mint (Poodina):
1. Choose a bunch with thick stems.
2. Loosen the bunch to separate the stems.
3. Discard any yellow leaves.
4. Select 10-12 good stalks. One or two may have a few hairy roots. These will start
growing faster.
5. Loosen soil in a pot by digging it lightly.
6. Dig 2" deep and plant 2 stems together. Similarly plant all of them, planting two
stems together in each hole.
7. Press on the sides of the stems lightly.
8. Water generously. Water every day.

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Sweet Basel
1. Select good black/brown coloured seeds. Rub it in your palms to remove the outer
cover.
2. Dig the soil in a pot to loosen it.
3. Sprinkle seeds. Gently mix them with the fingers with the soil. Some get mixed
and some show on top.
4. Water generously. Cover with a transparent polythene and place in a warm,
lighted place.
5. Now water only when the soil turns dry.
6. The seedlings take about 15 days to come out.
7. Once the seedlings are out, take care to protect them from the birds.
Green Chili (Hari Mirch):
1. Select 4-5 good, big and thick dry red chilies. Take out seeds.
2. Loosen soil by digging.
3. Scatter seeds. Lightly mix the seeds with the soil with your fingers.
4. Water generously.
5. Water only after the soil turns dry.

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Palms
If you grow some Palms in your garden they will not only beautify the garden but
also add a touch of royalty. The palms are remaining ever green throughout the year
and you need not plant them afresh every season. Palms also make wonderful indoor
plants.
The palms can also, be grown as an indoor plant as they not like too much light and
cannot stand direct sunlight. Find a place which has some light, but not too strong
light. It is always better to keep two palm plants for a single indoor location. Keep
one inside your room for a few days and then put it outside, but not in direct
sunlight. Bring the one outside to replace it, altering the plants.
Some of the palm which will charm you and your visitors are given below:
Areca Lutescens Palm
This the most common palm grown in the garden. The Areca palm is also called the
golden feather palm. Its botanical name is areca Iutescens.
The leaves of the young plants are rather floppy and irregular, but they become
more sturdy and regular as they grow older. Areca originates from Madagascar,
where it is usually warm and so the golden feather palm is therefore not adapted to
low temperature. Put in a warm place where even the night temperature does not
drop below 15°C (59°F).Areca grows best in a lighted spot out of the midday sun.
Water the plant regularly, but it does not need too much water.
Caryota (FIsh Tail Palm)
The leaves of this palm have triangular leaflets which look like fish tails. It needs as
sunny location within-direct sunlight. It always needs a temperature of 15°C (59°F),
preferably a lot higher and regular watering. Never let the potting soil dry out, but do
not let the plant stand in water either.
Washingtonia Filifera (Desert Fan Palm, Petticoat Plant)
The leaves are folded like a fan. Threads are released from the edges along the
entire length of the leaf forming curls. In summers, water the plant liberally and in

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winter do not let the soil dry out completely. Feed occasionally. This palm tolerates
the cold. It should not be kept in direct sunlight, although some light is essential for
the proper growth.
Kentia Palm (Howeia Forsteriana)
Their long leaves intertwines and from an elegant fan of foliage .It loves a bright
spot but the afternoon should be avoided. It needs plenty of water.
Dracaens ,Cordyline & Yucca
These plants are closely related and all belong to the agave family. All three plants
have a common shape. The rosettes carry on growing upwards as the old leaves
drop off. In this way a long stem develops with a bunch of leaves at the top. It is this
architectural shape, which has made them so popular in modern interiors. Besides,
they are very strong and survive even in un-favourable conditions.
Dracaena Deremensis
This is one of the easiest to grow houseplant. It can be grown in the sun but will also
tolerate shade. The best place for it is full light without too much direct sun. It grows
quickly when it is watered regularly, but it should not be over watered. Older plants
develop a tuft of leaves on the top with bare stems, because the lower leaves keep
turning yellow and dropping off as time passes. The leaves are green as well as the
variegated varieties with pale yellow bands on the green leaves are commonly found.
Cordyline Fruticosa
The bright green leaves have a pinkish red margin and often have cream coloured
margins as well. Whether the plant keeps its colour or not, depends on the location.
If they are put in strong sun, the plants tend to lose their intense colours. To retain
their colours, it is better to put them in a light spot out of the sun. Water sparingly at
short intervals so that the soil remains moist. In winters the soil can be kept a little
drier.

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Yucca Elephantipes
The pointed, spineless leaves tolerate the full sun and also stay healthy for a long
time with less light. It requires less water, so water moderately during summers and
scantily in withers. Outside in the fresh air, it grows quite quickly than when placed
inside a room.
Ferns
Ferns grow better in a slightly cooler atmosphere because the relative humidity tends
to be higher. The heat damages the ferns. Some of the common ferns, which make
good houseplants, are given below:
Adiantum Hispidulum
The leaves are made up of leaflets attached in long rows to leaf stalk, which are, in
turn carried on black stalks. When put outside, place it in a shady and sheltered
spot.
Adiantum Raddianum (Maiden Hair Fern)
A very delicate fern which responds immediately if not treated correctly. If the
humidity of the air is too low, or if the fern has not been watered, the edges of the
fine leaflets dry out. If you let the fern stand permanently in water, the whole plant
dies, especially in a cool room. Put this fern in a light spot, but not in direct sunlight.
These plants like humid places so the best place in the house for this fern is the
bathroom.

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Ficus
The unusual combination of withstanding low light and low humidity has made Ficus
a most popular indoor houseplant. Some of these plants grow to great heights
whereas some varieties grow to just a few centimeters above the ground.
Ficus Benjamina
It has small glossy leaves. Some have plain dark green leaves but variegated
varieties have leaves, which are mottled-green and milky-green with a lot of white.
It does not need much light and manages to grow well in the shade too, although the
variegated varieties need more light and higher temperatures. The plant does not
need too much water. So do not water until the soil has almost dried out and make
sure that no water remains standing in the pot. Sometimes you might see that the
leaves are dropping. Leaf drop may be the result of too cold a location, or a draught
or of lack of water.
Ficus elastica (Rubber Plant)
The rubber plant if kept in the light grows straight towards the light, branching like a
crown only at the top. In a fairly dark spot, it will not usually branch, and will grow
as a straight plant. Occasionally wipe the leaves, dip in buttermilk to give the leaves
a beautiful sheen. It does not need too much light and no direct sun light. It can
survive in the shade also. It does not require too much water, so water only when
the soil feels dry.
Arums
These have beautifully coloured and shaped foliage. These also have special flowers
which are arranged on a spadix. The spadix is surrounded by a so-called spathe, a
protective bract. Arums are tolerant of shade and dry air and this makes them ideal
houseplants. Some of the popular varieties are given below:
Monstera Deliciosa "Swiss Cheese Plant"
The leaves of the young plant are heart shaped. When the plant is grown in a light
and not too dry spot, the new leaves will get deeply cleft margins. In ideal
conditions, the leaves get larger and develop oval holes, making the plant look very
ornamental. A light, humid location out of the sun is ideal, although it will grow in

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semi shade and tolerate dry air reasonably well. Water liberally in summers and less
in winters.
Aglaonema Commutatum "Silver Queen"
The leaves are about 8" long with patches of light colour along the veins. Keeping
them healthy indoors is a great job. They do not like dry air and it is therefore
necessary to spray water frequently or to use the "tray method". (This is done by
putting the plant on an upside down saucer in a tray, and filling the tray with water
to just below the bottom of the pot). It can take plenty of water, so what freely
during summers and keep the soil moist in winters.
Philodendron Erubescens "Blushing Philodendron"
A strong plant which does not need much looking after. It has thin red flushed stems
which need support and so the growing plants are often tied around a moss stick. It
does not need much light and water.
Flowers
The flower plants are the heart of the garden. The add colour and rhythm to the
garden when in full bloom. The flowering plants are covered under the following
heads:
SEASONAL PLANTS (ANNUALS) WINTER BLOOMS
SEASONAL FLOWERS (ANNUALS) SUMMER BLOOMS
FLOWERING CLIMBERS (PERMANENT CREEPERS)
FLOWERING BULBS
SEASONAL PLANTS (ANNUALS) WINTER BLOOMS
(Sowing time-March in the hilly area and October in the plains)
Name/Time
taken for
blooming
from sowing
Flower
Description
Light
Requirement
Notes
Alyssum
2 – 3 months
White, pink, purple and
blue.
Shad to Sunny
Pinch the tops for heavy
bloom. Remove dead
flowers for longer
blooming period.
Aster
3 – 3 1/2 months
Mixed coloures in single
and doubles
Sunny
Pinch the tops for heavy
bloom. Remove dead
flowers for longer
blooming period
Calendula
2 1/2-3 months
Orange is the most
popular colour besides,
yellow lemon and of-
white. Single and double.
New types are pale
colours with dark centers.
Sun or light shade
If you pinch early, it will
encourage bushiness and
thus
produce more flowers.
Grow in beds and pots.

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Name/Time
taken for
blooming
from sowing
Flower
Description
Light
Requirement
Notes
Candytuft
2 – 3 months
White, pink and purple
clusters.
Sunny Grow in beds and pots.
Carnation
5 months
Single and double with or
without fringged petals,
Colours--white, cream,
yellow, pink, red, purple,
orange, maroon, etc.
Full sun
In the hills the planets
can be
cultivated as perennials.
Grow in beds, borders,
edges
and even pots.
Chrysanthemum
3 months
Vivid colours, crimson,
yellow, white, bronze or
one colour merging into
another, or with distinct
zone of a second color.
Sunny
Plants are prepared from
tip cutting and planted
as early
as August to begin
blooming by
November. Grow in pots
or beds
Cineraria
2 1/2 – 3 months
Clusters of white, pink
blue flowers appear at the
top centre of the plant.
shade or semi shade
Excellent as potted
plants grows well in area
where sunlight barely
reaches
Cosmos
2 1/2 months
Plants branched with
feather-like foliage.
Flowers are yellow, pink,
crimson and white.
Sunny or semi shade
Starts flowering as early
as September, right up
to March.
If protected from rains,
it can even be sowed in
August.
Dahlia
3 months
Big flowers of 4"-5"
diameter, impressive.
Wide colour range.
Sunny
When plants reach a
height of 10 inches,
pinch off the growing tip
to encourage branching
for
better flowers. Remove
all buds,
except the terminal
ones.
Grow in beds or in pots.
Daisy
3 – 3 1/2 months
Various mixed colours. Semi sunny
Remove dead flowers
and branches for higher
bloom.
Dianthus
3 – 4 months
Mixed single and double
coloured.
Sunny
Hollyhock
3 1/2 months
Large funnel shaped
flowers wide range of
colours, single or double.
A tall plant.
Sunny
Must be used against a
wall
because it is a tall plant.
Flowerings continue even
in early summer when
other plants
dry up. Also in pots.
Gerbera (Root
Division)
3 -4 months
Various coloured Semi sunny
Remove dead flowers
bloom. Excellent cut
flowers.
Gazania
3 – 4 months
Various mixed colours Semi sunny
Remove dead flowers
bloom. Excellent cut
flowers.

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Name/Time
taken for
blooming
from sowing
Flower
Description
Light
Requirement
Notes
Nasturtium
2 months
Bright, yellow, orange,
flowers with lots of
rounded leaves.
Full sun
Remove some of the
leaves
before the blooms form
to
enhance colour effect.
Avoid rich
soil as it produces too
many leaves and delays
flowering.
Grow in beds, borders
and
hanging baskets.
Pansy
3 months
Several beautiful flowers
of 2 1/2 "-3" diameter,
marked with lines
Sun or
partial
shade
Ideal for borders and
rectangular
planters on garden walls.
Grow also in beds and as
ground cover.
Petunia
3 months
Comes in small ("2")
and large ("4") sizes.
Several colours.
Good
sun
Continues to bloom even
with the
onset of summer
Phlox
3-3 1/2 months
Tinny flowers in small
clusters.
All colours
Sunny
Grow in beds, borders,
pots and
rock gardens.
Blooms well till
beginning of summer.
Sow as early as August.

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Achimenes Alyssum Aster Calendula
Candy tuff Carnation Chrysanthemum
Small
Chrysanthemum
Cineraria Cosmos Dahlia Daisy
Dianthus Hollyhock Gerbera Gazaina
Nasturtium Pansy Petunia Phlox

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SEASONAL FLOWERS (ANNUALS) SUMMER BLOOMS
(Sowing time-Oct in the hilly area and March in the plains)
Name/Time
taken for
blooming
from sowing
Flower
Description
Light
Requirement
Notes
Balsam
4 months
Flowers single or double in
white, pink, purple and
red.
Sunny or
semi shade
Plants do better in high
humidity.
So if dry conditions
prevail,
sprinkle often.
Celosia
(Cockscomb)
2 1/2 -3 months
Pink, orange, red,
crimson, gold, velvety,
plumes or crests.
Full sun
Can also be grown as
winter
annuals.
Gaillardia
3 1/2 -4 months
Single and double flowers
in yellow, red.
Sunny
This is a slightly earlier
sowing
season. December to April
suitable for beds.
Plants continue to flower
for a long time.
Love Lines
Bleeding
(Bleeding
Heart)
5 – 6 months
Crimson white mix heart
shaped with red tail like
droppings
Sunny
Should be pruned after
blooming season.
Marigold
French
(Targets)
3 31/2 months
Mixed Orange, Red and
Yellow
Sunny
Plants continue flowering
well after the rainy
season.
Marigold
African Large
3 31/2 months
Orange, yellow and white Sunny
Best flowering March –
May and Oct to Nov.
Portulaca
Single and
Double
3 – 4 months
Single and double
coloured in various shades
– Red, pink, yellow,
orange and maroon
Sunny
Can be grown from seeds
as well as cuttings. Retain
cutting over winter indoors
or in shade.
Sunflower
3- 4 months
Flowers are large and
yellow, single or double.
Sunny
Grow better near south
facing
walls. Flowers always face
the sun.
Verbena
3-4 months
Blue, White, Pink and
multi-coloured in single
and double.
Sunny
For bushier growth and
more bloom pinch the top
after 2 months.
Vince Rosa
(Sadarbhar)
3 – 4 months
Pink, white, blue and
maroon. Single coloured
and with white/yellow
centre.
Sunny and Semi sun
Avoid rains directly hitting
the plants.
Zinnia
3 – 3 ½ months
White, rust, dark brown,
maroon, copper red,
yellow etc. Single & double
small (1 1/2") or large
(6") flowers.
Sunny
Pinch off early beds to
encourage growth.
Keep removing dead
flower to get better &
more blooms.

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Balsam Celosia Gaillardia Bleeding Heart
Marigold French Marigold African Portulaca Salvia
Sunflower Verbena Vince Rosa Zinnia
FLOWERING CLIMBERS (PERMANENT CREEPERS)
(Sowing time-March in the hilly area and February in the plains)
Name/Time
taken for
blooming
from planting
Flower
Description
Notes
Bougainvillea
3 – 5 months
Popular shrub also grown as
climber. Flowers commonly
deep pink, red, yellow, white; thorns
arise from leaf axils.
Pruning should be done
to encourage growth of new
stems. Prune the plant at the
on set of summer.
Cleroonendron
Splendors
3 – 4 months
Evergreen climber, dark,
glossy leaves. Tiny scarlet flowers,
in clusters.
A vigorous climber which gives
better flowers if pruned every year
during the monsoon. Clerodendron
is useful as a screen or wall climber.
Jasmine
3 – 4 months
A bunch of fragment white
flowers which give out a lovely
fragrance in the evening.
Should be pruned after
flowering to check excessive growth.
Passion Flower
3 -5 months
Beautiful watch dial form flowers in
purple, pink and blue colour
Should be pruned after flowering
season
Railway Creeper
3 – 4 months
Funnel shaped light purple
flowers.
Should be growing in spring or in
early summer.
Bougainvillea Cleroonendron
Splendors
Jasmine Passion Flower Railway Creeper

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FLOWERING BULBS – summer and Rain season
(Sowing time –April - May in the hilly area and Feb - March in the plains)
Name/Time
taken for
blooming
from planting
Flower
Description
Light
Requirement
Notes
Amaryllis
2 – 4 months
Cone shaped various
coloured
Sunny
Plants bulbs 3"-4" deep
for
early flowers and 6"-7"
for
delayed blooms.
Space bulbs 8"-10"
apart. To avoid rotting
of bulbs.
Water very sparingly till
leaves
appear.
Achimene
3 – 4 months
Beautiful, delicate paper
like flowers in pink,
white, purple and blue
colour.
Semi sunny
Avoid applying water to
the flowers as they get
damaged. Life of the
flowers is from sun rise
to dusk.
Caladium
(Fancy and Lance
leaved)
3 – 4 months
Beautiful multi coloured
and variegated in
Green, red, pink, purple
and maroon colour.
Indirect sun and shade
Plant the bulbs 3‖ – 4‖
deep and space bulbs
12 -18 inches apart.
Gladiolus
2-4 months
Flowers are flared-tuber
on tall graceful spikes.
Many colours - white,
pink on
on white, red, violet,
etc.
Sunny
Plants bulbs 3"-4" deep
for early flowers and 6"-
7" for delayed blooms.
Space bulbs 8"-10"
apart. To avoid rotting
of bulbs.
Water very sparingly till
leaves
appear.
Haemanthus
(Football Lily)
2 – 5 months
Bright red coloured
flourletts forming into a
round ball.
Semi sunny
Plant bulbs 3‖ – 4 ―deep
and 12 – 18 inches
apart in beds or single
bulb in pots.
Tuberose
3- 3 1/2 months
Tabular, white waxy
flowers on
a central spike
Surrounded by narrow,
long
leaves.
Sunny
By varying planting
depth and size of bulbs
you can vary the
flowering time in order
get blooms successively.
Deeper planting and
smaller bulbs gives
delayed flowers and vice
versa. Manure should be
added
15 days before planting
bulbs. Plants bulbs to a
depth of2"-3", inter
space 6"-7" apart.
Or plant 2 to 3 bulbs
may be removed or left
in-location waiting for
the next flowering
season.

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Amaryllis Achimene Caladium
Gladiolus Football Lily Tuberose
Plant Care
Grooming and Care
By the removal of dead flowers, the flowering period can be extended. Also, the removal of
shoot tips encourages a neat and attractive plant, while supporting and training stems also
creates a neat appearance. From early autumn to late spring, the Pink Jasmine (Jasminum
polyanthum) creates a wealth of white or pale-pink flowers.
When young plants have shoots 10-18 inches long, insert the support into the potting soil.
Pliable canes are just pushed into it, while plastic loops are attached to the rim. Carefully
cult and train shoots around the support, taking care not to bend or kink them. Repeat this
task several times throughout summer, and regularly feed the plant to encourage growth.
Cleaning Leaves
Proprietary, ozone-friendly sprays are available, and these are ideal for large-leaved plants,
while hairy-leaved types and bristly cacti can be cleaned with a small soft brush. Support
large leaves with one hand and gently wipe a damp cloth or spray with one hand and gently
wipe with a damp cloth or spray with a leaf-cleaner. Do not do this when the plant is in
strong sunlight. Clean plants with many small leaves by gently swirling them in a bowl of
clean water, allowing excess to drain, and dry in gently warmth but away from direct and
strong sunlight.
Remove dirt and dust from bristly cacti, as well as hairy-leaved plants, by using a small,
soft brush. Blowing strongly on leaves while brushing also helps to remove dirt.
Looking After Flowers
Decaying flowers left on plants encourage others to rot, and the decay may then spread to
soft leaves. Also, the removal of dead flowers encourages the development of others. Pull
off the stems of cyclamen flowers that have faded and started to wither. Hold the stem
firmly and tug sharply, so that it comes away from the plant's base. Do not just remove the
flowers.
Pinch off dead flowers from azaleas. Do not leave parts of flowers, as this encourages the
onset of decay around soft shoots. Hold the shoot firmly while carrying out this task.

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Trimming Steams and Shoots
Some plants have a sprawling, scrambling and climbing nature and although this is often
part of their attraction, occasionally stems need to be trimmed. Always trim them from a
leaf-joint, using a sharp knife, scissors or just by holding the stem firmly and snapping it
sideways. Never leave a short piece of stem as this encourages the onset of decay.
Slightly woody stems, such as those on azaleas, are best trimmed with sharp scissors,
cutting back to a leaf-joint. This encourages bushiness and the development of side shoots.
Encourage young plants to form a bushy base by nipping back young shoots to leaf-joints. If
this job is neglected. Plants become bare at their bases and unappealing.
Hoeing
Hoeing or forking is an operation in which the surface soil around the plant, is loosened with
a hoe (khurpi) or a fork and is turned inside out. The hoeing may be up to 7-15 cm (3-
16in.) depth. The object of hoeing is to keep the soil porous so that light, air and water may
reach the roots better, to improve moisture-retention capacity and to remove weeds.
Hoeing has to be done carefully so that the surface or stem roots are not damaged. Hoeing
should be done when soil is moist or dry but not wet and soggy. The best procedure for
hoeing is to water the plants in the morning, hoeing them in the evening and then watering
in the morning. An interval between hoeing and watering helps in the aeration of roots and
absorption of water from a greater depth. Sudden exposure to heat during the hot sunshine
period or to cold at night may cause damage to the roots.
Weeding
Removal of weeds is called weeding. Weeds, besides competing with the garden plants for
nourishment, are also sometimes hosts to pests and diseases, which are transferred from
them to the garden plants. They should, therefore, be removed as soon as they appear.
Stopping
means pinching of a growing shoot of a plant. Stopping also includes removal of side shoots
growing from the axis of the leaf joint with the main shoot as in balsam, larkspur, or
tomato, in order to let the energy of the plant be diverted fully to the flower stem. Stopping
may be done more than once in a season, depending on the growth of plant and its variety.
It is better not to stop more than one or two big shoots and 3-4 small shoots at a time in a
plant.
Disbudding means removal of all but one or two selected buds on a stem. Plants which have
large and decorative flowers need more disbudding than those with small and medium
flowers. Chrysanthemum, dahlia and carnation require heavy disbudding, while roses need
comparatively less of it.
Dead heading
Removal of withered flowers from the plant is called dead heading. Flower is produced in
nature for producing seeds and as soon as seeds are produced the natural function of the
plant having been over, it dies or rests. Therefore, a garden plant should not be allowed to
seed except for purposes of collection of seed. Removal of withered, dried flowers is thus to
prevent the plant from seeding.

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Top-Dressing Large Houseplants
When plants in pots become too large to be repotted, they are top dressed in spring. Allow
the surface soil to dry slightly, then use small trowel (tool for digging) to scrape away the
top 1-1.5 inches.
Replace the surface soil with potting soil. Leave a space between the top of the soil and the
rim of the pot, so that the plant can be watered without the water over flowing, when the
soil in the pot becomes dry.
NUTRIENT NEED OF FLOWERS
Flowers need proper nutrients just like you do. One way to help your flower gardens come
alive is to give them what they need.
Understanding Fertilizers in General
Fertilizer is plant food (nutrients) for flowers, trees, shrubs, and other flora. Nutrients are
available in various amounts in nature, and plant life needs these nutrients to survive and
grow. The primary big 3 of the nutrients that plants need large amounts of are:
Major Plant Nutrients:
 Nitrogen
 Phosphorus
 Potassium
Nitrogen – This is the main nutrient for new green growth. This is especially important for
plants that are mostly all leaf such as grasses. As a result the ratio for lawn fertilizers has a
higher 1st ratio number meaning more nitrogen in the mix.
Phosphorus – This nutrient promotes good root development and strengthens the flower
or plant. It also results in increased blooms on flowers so lots of phosphorus is great for
bulbs and perennials. Fertilizers higher in phosphorus have a higher 2nd number in the
ratio.
Potassium – This builds strong and healthy plants & flowers and improves the overall
health of the flora.
These 3 are the ones that fertilizer manufacturers focus most on and they are known as
―macronutrients‖. There are also nutrients that plants do need but in much smaller
quantities and these are known as ―micronutrients‖. The more important secondary
nutrients are:
Secondary Plant Nutrients
1- Calcium – Improves general plant vigor and promotes growth of young roots and
shoots.
2- Sulfur – This nutrient helps to maintain a dark green color and encourages more
vigorous plant growth.
3- Magnesium – This nutrient helps to regulate uptake of plant foods and assist in
seed formation. It is also important in the formation of dark green color and
encourages vigorous plant growth.
After the major and minor nutrients there are sometimes ―trace elements‖ that play a role
in plant nutrition. Trace elements play a role in helping to develop dark green color and
healthy and vigorous plant growth. These ―trace micronutrients‖ are:

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Trace Micronutrients
 Boron
 Manganese
 Iron
 Zinc
 Copper
 Molybdenum
Manure was once the dominant fertilizer and is still used but less frequently. Fertilizers in
modern times are made either synthetically or organically (manure and or compost). The
Macronutrients are given a ratio on the fertilizer bag to represent the proportions of the
main nutrients that are present in a particular fertilizer mix.
For example, a 5-10-20 fertilizer would have 5% Nitrate, 10% Phosphate, and 20% Potash.
If a particular flower or plant needed higher phosphate levels for healthy growth the middle
number would go up (for example: 5-15-20).
Law of Minimum:
This law states that plant growth is controlled not by the total resources available, but by
the scarcest resource needed by the plant or flower. In other words, extra amounts of
plentiful nutrients do not increase a plant’s growth if the scarce nutrients needed were still
lacking. Only by increasing the amount of the limiting nutrient can a particular plant or
flower have improved growth.
PROPAGATION
Propagation is a scientific name for reproduction in any form of living thing. With plants, it
means making new plants either from seeds or from parts of existing plants. It's usually
very easy to make new plants, and it's one of the most rewarding things about gardening.
PROPAGATION - SOWING SEEDS
Many houseplants can be increased from seeds, whether grown for their flowers, foliage or
berries. Others include palms, ferns, insectivorous plants, cacti and other succulents.
Whatever the type of plant, the seeds need three basic conditions to encourage germination
- moisture, warmth and air. Most seeds germinate in darkness, but a few-such as the Wax
Flower (Begonia semperflorens)-need light. These conditions are created by sowing seeds in
seed compost that both retains moisture yet allows air penetration, and either placing in a
greenhouse or on a warm windowsill indoors.

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Sowing Seeds - Procedure
1. Fill a clean plastic seed-tray with seed compost. If small numbers of seeds are to be
sown, use a shallow seed pan. Do not sow different seeds in the same containers.
2. Using your fingers, firm the seed compost, especially around the sides and edges as this
is where it will start to become dry if regular watering is neglected.
3. Place more seed compost in the seed-tray and strike the surface level with a straight-
edged piece of wood. Try to leave the surface of the compost even and flat.
4. Using a piece of wood with a small handle attached to it, firm the surface until it is about
12mm/1/2 in below the rim. Keep the surface clean to ensure an even surface.
5. Tip the seeds into a folded, V-shaped piece of paper and gently tap the end to encourage
them to fall on the compost. Do not sow seeds within 12mm/1/2 inches from the edge.
Label the box.
6. Some seeds require light to encourage germination, but most need darkness and are
covered to three or four times their thickness. Use a fine-mesh sieve to scatter compost.
7. Water the compost by standing the seed tray in a bowl of clean water. When moisture
seeps to the surface, remove and allow to drain. Do not water from overhead, as it scatters
the seeds.
8. The seed-tray needs to be covered to prevent the surface of the seed compost drying, as
well as maintaining a high temperature. Domed, plastic covers are convenient.
9. An alternative to a plastic cover is a sheet of clear glass. However, condensation
accumulates on the underside and this must be wiped off every day, the glass then turned
upside down.
10. To create a dark environment for dark-loving seed sown on, or almost on, the seed
compost's surface, cover the glass with a sheet of newspaper. Remove when the seeds
germinate.
11. After seeds germinate, remove the covering and allow air to circulate around the
seedlings. Continue to water them by standing the seed-tray in a bowl of water. Avoid
wetting the leaves.
12. When the young plants are sturdy and growing strongly, transfer them into small pots
of potting compost. First water, allowing excess to drain, then pot up individually. Avoid
damaging roots.
13. When the young plants are sturdy and growing strongly, transfer them into small pots
of potting compost. First water, allowing excess to drain, then pot up individually. Avoid
damaging roots.
14. Gently hold each plant by its stem and trickle potting compost around the roots. Take
care not to squeeze the stem-young plants are easily damaged and subsequently may not
subsequently may not recover.

24 | P a g e
Repotting of Seedlings
As soon as the seedlings are large enough to handle they must be moved into individual
pots, where they have more space and an increased amount of air and light. If not
transferred (picked off), they become drawn up, thin and lanky, and eventually unable to
support themselves unless assisted by neighbouring seedlings. Additionally, seedlings tightly
clustered together are more susceptible to diseases than those with a good circulation of air
around them.
When Transferring Seedlings
Don't use potting compost form unsterilized garden soil, as it may contain pests and
diseases.
Ensure the roots of seedlings are moist before being picked off.
Hold young seedlings by a leaf-if held by the stems they soon become damaged if
squeezed.
Dividing Plants
Houseplants mainly grown for their attractive foliage are best divided in spring. Some
flowering types with a perennial nature are also increased in this way, as soon as their
flowers fade but preferably in spring. Flowering plants that finish flowering in autumn are
best divided in spring. Division in spring enables young plants to become established during
summer, while growing strongly.
Plants suitable for division include ...
Sansevieria trifaciataa (Mother-in-Law Plant)
Spathiphyllum wallisii (Peace Lily)
Hedera helix (common Ivy)
Ferns (Many can be divided)
Palms (Many can be divided)
Saintpaulia ionantha (African violet)
Dividing –Procedure
1. Remove the soil ball from the pot by inverting the plant and tapping the rim on the
edge of firm surface.
2. Evidence that division in needed is indicated by a mat of roots around the root-
ball. A mass of white roots indicates that the plant is healthy and growing strongly.
3. Using fingers tease and pull apart the root-ball into several substantially sized
pieces. It may be necessary to cut some roots, but never use a knife to slice through
a plant.
4. Hold a young plant in the centre of a clean pot and trickle fresh potting compost
around the roots. Firm the potting compost and ensure the plant is at the same
depth as before.
5. Water the plants from above and place in gentle warmth. It may be necessary to
shade plants from strong sunlight until roots are established and absorbing water. Do
not water the plant until the compost has started to dry.

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Layering
Tip layering
1. If the plant is growing as a climber, release and lower a shoot. Ensure the potting
compost in the mother plant's pot is moist, and fill a small pot with equal parts moist peat
and sharp sand.
2. Lower a stem to the potting compost, press in about 2.5cm/ l in deep and use a bent
piece of wire to secure it into the potting compost as shown in the picture above. Water the
plant to settle the compost around the stem.
3. When young shoots develop from the tip of the stem, use a sharp knife, scissors or
secateurs to sever it from the parent. To tidy up the plant, cut the shoot back to its source.
Air layering
In case of some plants like shrubs air layering is used as a mode of propagation.
1. Select a soft side branch which has two three nodes, from where the new leaves or
branches would appear.
2. Scrap about 1 inch length of the bark.
3. Cover it all around completely with moist moss.
4. Cover it with a transparent plastic sheet and tie both the ends.
5. After 15-20 days root would emerge.
6. Cut it from the main plant side and transplant it in a pot filled with equal parts moist peat
and sand and potting soil.
Runners
Increasing a spider plant:
1. Chlorophytum comosum (Spider plant) develops long, trailing and arching stems with
small plantlets at their ends. When pegged into pots of potting compost placed around the
mother plant they develop roots.
2. To propagate the plant, use small pieces of bent wire or hairpin to secure the plantlets
into the potting compost. Water, place in gentle warmth.
3. When young shoots start to develop from the plantlets, cut the shoots from the parent
plant and move them into a lightly shaded position until growing strongly. Keep the potting
compost moist.

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Stem-Tip Cutting
Many houseplants can be increased from stem-tip cuttings, each formed from a piece of
stem, several leaves and a terminal shoot. They are usually 7.5-13 cm/3-5in long and, if
possible, taken from the outer area of the parent plant, where they would have been in
good light and growing healthily and strongly. Spindly and weak shoots are not suitable as
cuttings. Additionally, ensure that the mother plant is healthy & strong-wilting plants never
produce good cuttings. Cuttings need a moisture-retentive yet well-aerated potting compost
to encourage rapid rooting, such as equal parts moist peat and sharp sand.
Sometimes it is impossible to take cuttings from a plant without spoiling its appearance.
Also, some plants grown indoors do not produce young shoots that can be used as cuttings.
In greenhouses and conservatories it is often possible to grow plants in out-of-the way
positions, specifically to create young shoots that can be used as cuttings. The Zebra Plant
(Aphelandra squarrosa), Rose of China (Hibiscus rose-sinensis) and the Lollipop Plant
(Pachystachys lutea) are frequently cut back in spring or after flowers fade, young shoots
then growing from leaf-joints. These are subsequently used as cuttings.
Taking Stem-Tip Cuttings
1. Use a sharp knife to cut a strong and healthy shoot from a mother plant, severing it just
above a leaf-joint. Do not leave short spurs, as they are unsightly and encourage the onset
of diseases and decay.
2. Trim the cutting's base to just below a leaf-joint, at the same time cutting off lower
leaves close to the stem. Some cuttings have two leaves at each leaf-joint, others just one.
3. Dip the cutting's base in hormone rooting-powder. Use a small dibber to form a hole into
which the stem in inserted 18-25mm/3/4-l in. Do not bury the lower leaves, as this
encourages rotting.
4. Firm compost around the cutting's base, water from above, insert short split-canes in the
potting compost and cover with a plastic bag. Secure its base around the pot with an elastic
band.
Indoor Hanging Baskets
Displaying houseplants in indoor hanging-baskets needs care and planning. They
attractively fill vertical space but can be difficult to water and look after. Also, they need
firm securing points. Although similar to outdoor hanging-baskets, indoor types must be
fitted with drip trays to ensure excess water does not fall on the floor. Alternatively, plants
can be left in their own pots and all of them placed in a single, wide, large pot that does not
have a hole in its base. This is then suspended in an attractive harness. Both flowering and
foliage trailing plants can be used; if the position is shaded, use only shade-surviving foliage
plants, whereas bright and sunny places can be filled with flowering types.

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Planting an Indoor Hanging Basket
1. Plan the positioning of individual plants before setting them in the basket. Draw a circle
the size of the container on a piece of paper and arrange the plants.
2. Form a thin layer of gravel in the container's base to ensure water can run freely into the
drip tray. If there are just a few large holes, place broken pieces of clay pots over them.
3. Cover the base with peat-based potting compost, to which has been added a handful of
charcoal. Also, clay particles help in moisture retention.
Flowering houseplants for indoor hanging-baskets
Aseschynathus radicans (Lipstick vine)
Aporocactus flagelliformis (Rat's-tail Cactus)
Begonia tuberhybrida pendula (Basket Begonia)
Campanula isophylla (Italian Bellflower)
Columnea microphylla (Goldfish Plant)
Rhipsalidopsis gaertneri (Easter cactus)
Schlumbergera truncata (Christmas cactus)
Aseschynathus Aporocactus Begonia Campanula
Columnea Rhipsalidopsis Schlumbergera
Grouping Plants in Hanging-Baskets
Instead of removing plants from their pots and planting them in potting compost, plants can
be stood in an ornamental pot (without a hole in its base) and suspended in an ornamental
harness. The advantage of this method is that the display can be changed as soon as one of
the plants stops flowering or becomes unsightly. Flowering houseplants with short seasons
of flower can be displayed in this way, but also use a few foliage types to give the display
permanency.
Example of how to make an indoor hanging basket is given on the following pages.
1. Draw a circle the same size as the bowl on a sheet of paper and place the plants on it. It
is not necessary to create a congested group-a few distinctive plants can be equally
attractive.
2. Select a flat-based bowl 25-30 cm/ 10-12 in wide and 13-15 cm/5-7 in deep. Form a 2.5
cm/ l in deep layer of pea-shingle in the base. Water the plants and allow draining before
putting them in the container.
3. Fill the container with plants from the centre to the outside. Pack moist peat between the
pots-it helps to keep the compost cool and to reduce the amount of water they need.

28 | P a g e
4. Sphagnum moss placed around the edges makes the display more attractive. However, it
is essential that the compost can be seen as the plants must be watered individually. Some
plants will need more water than others.
Foliage plants for indoor hanging-baskets
Asparagus densiflorus 'Sprengeri' (Emerald Fern)
Ceropegia woodii (Rosary vine)
Chlorophytum comosum (Spider Plant)
Epipremnum pinnatum (Devil's Ivy)
Plectranthus oertendahlii (Swedish Ivy)
Olectranthus coleoides 'Marginatus' (Variegated Swedish Ivy)
Asparagus Ceropegia Chlorophytum
Epipremnum Plectranthus Olectranthus
INDOOR PLANTS
Indoor house plants make a beautiful addition to any indoor space, add color and texture
and create an impact and give life to any room. Interior decorators often utilize house
plants to help create the mood in the finished space.
When selecting your indoor house plants you must be aware of the conditions in which they
will be growing. Suitable lighting, temperature, and humidity must be present for your plant
to thrive. Choose a plant that will be comfortable in the location it is placed. A healthy,
growing indoor house plant will provide you with much enjoyment.
Some of the important points regarding indoor house plants which should be kept in mind
are as under:
- light levels required
- acceptable temperature ranges
- humidity requirements
- watering requirements and methods
- fertilizer needs
- soil mixtures
- propagation methods
Indoor house plants will require regular maintenance in order to keep them healthy. Some
plants are easier to care for than others, as such you should, before selecting or buying

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plants of your choice, also determine the amount of care required by the plant and time you
have at your disposal.
If you are new to growing indoor houseplants, you should choose an easy care houseplant
that is hardy and requiring less care time. With time and experience you will enjoy caring
for your indoor houseplants. Now you can try some of the houseplants that require more
exacting care.
Although most indoor house plants are grown for their foliage, some will bear flowers and
provide a wider range of color in your living space. Flowering house plants tend to need
more light than those grown for foliage. If your indoor spaces provide sufficient light,
flowering houseplants definitely deserve consideration. One exception is the Peace Lily
which produces beautiful calla like white spaths in medium levels of light.
In addition to the decorative qualities provided by house plants, research has shown that
house plants provide physical and psychological benefits. Indoor houseplants help create a
healthy relaxing environment. Studies have demonstrated that people in indoor
environments containing healthy house plants exhibit less stress and had lower blood
pressure.
In the olden days, drafts and open windows were often the way fresh air was introduced
into our homes and offices. This continual exchange of air with the outdoors acted to
remove the toxins given off by the materials used to build and furnish our homes and
offices. As we improve the energy efficiency of our buildings, this natural exchange of air is
being reduced and the toxins are being trapped inside the rooms. We need to find another
way to clean the air in our houses and offices. Studies have shown that many houseplants
improve indoor air quality.
Some of the most common toxins in our homes are formaldehyde, benzene,
trichloroethylene and carbon monoxide. Formaldehyde is used in carpets, water repellants,
and the pressed wood products used to make furniture. Benzene is found in paints,
detergents and plastics. Trichloroethylene is found in paints and adhesives and is used
extensively in the dry cleaning industry. Carbon monoxide is produced by the incomplete
combustion of fuel and by smoking. It has been shown that these toxins cause respiratory
problems, irritability, headaches and nausea. By cleaning these pollutants from the air,
houseplants improve indoor air quality. They also raise the humidity of the air around them.
Houseplants improve indoor air quality by absorbing the toxins from the air. By the process
of photosynthesis, they give off oxygen thus improving the quality of the air we breathe.
Houseplants improve indoor air quality by removing the byproducts of our daily living and
working. Our cooking of meals and heating of the building release pollutants into the air.
Smoking releases carbon monoxide and formaldehyde.
Studies have shown that under average conditions, one large or two smaller houseplants
per 100 square feet will be sufficient. In badly polluted environments, for example where
there is much new carpeting, more may be needed to provide the same level of air quality.

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By proper selection, placement and care, you can keep your houseplants in optimum
health. When indoor houseplants are healthy, they are at their most efficient in removing
pollutants and adding oxygen and humidity to the air. Healthy houseplants improve indoor
air quality.
Although some houseplants have been found to clean the air better than others it is fair to
assume that most houseplants will improve indoor air quality. Some houseplants improve
indoor air quality better than others.
Large Dominant Indoor Plants
Large and dominant foliage plants can become permanent features indoors, often creating
eye-catching focal points. Some, such as large palms, are superb when seen against a while
background. Some of the easy to grow locally available are given below:
Areca palm Butterfly Palm Chamendora palm Footstool Palm
Cyprus alternifolius
These are a type of palms. Some of common varieties are; Umbrella Grass, Umbrella Palm,
Umbrella Plant and Umbrella Sedge Narrow (grass like bracts in umbrella like heads).
Umbrella grass Umbrella Palm Umbrella Plant Umbrella Sedge

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INDOOR PLANTS
Some of the easier to grow available indoor plants are given below:
Common Name Botanical Name
Aloe Vera
Aloe Barbadensis Miller
Areca Palm
Chrysalidocarpus lutescens
Pothos
Philodendron
English Ivy
Hedera helix
Boston Fern
Epholepsis exalta
Mother In Laws Tongue
Sansevieria laurentil
Rubber Plant
Ficus Elastica
Peace Lily
Spathiphyllum

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Plants For Bright Places
South-facing windowsills are the brightest positions in a home, but can be too bright for
some plants. Houseplants suggested here happily live within 60 cm/2 ft of windows facing
south. However, plants such as desert cacti (types that grow in semi-desert regions and at
ground-level); succulent plants and pelargoniums thrive on windowsills.
Succulents Succulents Succulents Pelargoniums
If it’s too bright
Net curtains help to make south-facing windows suitable for a wider range of plants in
summer. If there is a direct sun then the leaves become pale, thin leaves, shriveled and
dry, and eventually falling off. Leaves also wilt, especially at midday and in afternoons.
Easy To Grow Desert plants
Cacti (Desert Types)
There are many interesting-shaped cacti to choose from within this group, including those in
families of Ccopiapoa, Chamaecereus, Echinopsis, Lobivia, Mammillaria, Notocactus, Parodia
and Rebuntia.
Ccopiapoa Chamaecereus
Echinopsis
Lobivia
Mammillaria Notocactus Parodia
Rebuntia
Plants For Shaded Areas
No plant will indefinitely survive in total shade, although some grow in shade near a sunless
window or where the light is just sufficient to enable a newspaper to be read. If a plant
appears sickly, move it to better light to encourage recovery. Because of the inherent
difficulties in growing houseplants in little light, those that are difficult to grow cease to be
possible options and therefore most are either easy to grow, or present only a slight degree
of difficulty. Also, some plants that are moderately easy to grow in moderate light become a
challenge when the intensity of light falls. Remember that the intensity of light 2.4m/8ft
from a window is only 5-10% of that on a windowsill.

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If it's too dark
Stems and leaves turn towards the light, although plants can be given a quarter upright
growths. Variegated plants lose their rich colouring and become green. New leaves become
smaller, and paler. Lower leaves become yellow, eventually fall off. Shoots become spindly,
with long spaces between leaf-joints. Flowers cease to develop.
Plants Needing Care
Cissus discolor also called climbing begonia has spear shaped to slightly triangular vivid
green leaves, marbled purple and white. Syngonium podophyllum, also called African
evergreen, has spear like shiny green leaves, which later develop ear like lobes at the stalk
end.
Syngonium podophyllum Arrohead Vine
This is a climbing foliage plant. It has spear shaped shiny green leaves, later developing ear
like lobes at the stalk end. There are several variegated varieties. It grows well in soft light
and can also be grown in slight shade for a limited period of time.
Vegetable Gardening
Vegetable gardening is easy. By involving the whole family in growing your own vegetables
everyone learns the skills of cultivating fresh nutritious vegetables. It is a way of
producing your own food in your backyard that is free of pesticides, herbicides and synthetic
chemicals therefore ultimately healthier for you.
You will find information and products on the following: various types of vegetable
gardens, the necessary tools to make your gardening experience easier and successful and
what vegetables to plant.
Benefits of fresh home grown vegetables
 Vegetable gardening is a way of making use of your own backyard garden to
produce fresh food
 No harmful chemicals have been used in the cultivation of the vegetables
 Know that the food that you produce is safe to eat
 You will spend less at the supermarket by not buying vegetables
 Fresh home grown vegetables are healthier for you
 You will be able to make money by selling any surplus vegetables
 Vegetable gardening is also a good form of exercise for everyone
 By planting the multi coloured varieties of vegetables your garden can become a
place of beauty
 Vegetable gardening is also very therapeutic as it is one way of relieving stress
 Storing vegetables for days in the refrigerator is a thing of the past
 You are saving energy as there is no transportation needed
 A fresh just picked vegetable is nutritious and full of flavour

34 | P a g e
What Vegetables To Grow and When
Easy to grow vegetables and their seasons are give below:
VEGETABLE GROWING TABLE
Vegetable Cold regions
(5-10
degree C)
Cool region
(10 – 20
degree C
Warm
region s (20
– 30 degree
C)
Warm
region ( 30
– 40 degree
C)
Hot region
(40 – 50
degree C)
Cool Season Vegetables Sowing Period
Beets Late May -
June
April - June Feb - March /
Aug - Sept
Feb - Apr /
July - Aug
Feb - Mar /
Sept
Broccoli Late May -
June
Aug - Sept
Feb - Mar /
June - July
Feb / Sept
Brussels Sprouts Late May -
June
April - June Feb / August Late May -
Early June
Feb / Sept
Cabbage Late May -
June
Aug - Sept
Feb - Mar /
June - July
Feb / Sept
Carrots Late May -
June
April - June Feb - April /
Aug - Sept
Jan - Mar /
June - Aug
Feb - Mar /
Sept
Cauliflower Late May -
June
April - May Feb - March /
Aug - Sept
Feb - Mar /
June - July
Feb / Sept
Lettuce Late May -
June
April - August Feb - March /
Aug - Sept
Dec - Mar /
July - Aug
Feb / Sept
Onions Late May -
June
May - June Dec - Feb /
Sept - Oct
Jan - Mar /
October
Sept - Oct
Peas Late May -
June
Aug - Nov
Jan - April Sept - Oct /
Feb - Mar
Radishes Late May -
June
April - July Feb - April /
Aug - Oct
Feb - April Feb - Apr /
Sept - Oct
Spinach Late May -
June
April - July Sept - April Jan - Mar /
Aug - Sept
Feb - Mar /
Sept - Oct
Vegetables Cold
regions (5-
10 degree
C)
Cool region
(10 – 20
degree C
Warm
region s (20
– 30 degree
C)
Warm
region ( 30
– 40 degree
C)
Hot region
(40 – 50
degree C)
Warm Season Vegetables Sowing Period
Beans June May - June March - Aug April - May /
July - Aug
March - April
Corn June May March - July April - July March - April
/ July - Aug
Cucumbers June May - June March - June April - June March -
August
Eggplant June May April - June April - May March - May
Melons June May March - June April - June March - June
Peppers June May April - June April - May March - April
Summer Squash June May - June March - July April - July March - June
Winter Squash June May April - June April - May May - June
Tomatoes June May March - July April - May March - April

35 | P a g e
Companion gardening
It has been there since the Birth of Planet Earth. In the jungles and the rainforests of South
America, Arunachal, Mizoram and Uttarakhand it grows naturedly.
We gardeners may be doing it but without calling it COMPANION GARDENING. What is it?
It is all that simple --- you could never have guessed it.
- Attracting good bugs and keeping away the bad ones
- Adding nutrients into the soil
- Sometimes, even as simple as providing a bit of shade for sun sensitive plants
There are two ways you can do this.
- By planting certain plants together (e.g.: onions and carrots like each other, whereas
beans and onions don’t)
- By planting additional plants into the vegetable patch (e.g.: marigolds which normally one
does not plant along with the vegetable plants, but they are a great companion plant.)
- Similarly one does not plant flowers along with the vegetable plants, but some vegetables
planted along with the flowers do wonders. If you plant garlic between your rose bushes
these will grow better and pest free.
Planting roses between each grapevine helps the grapes grow better and also adds a rosy
flavour to the grapes.
This procedure is new to the grower though in nature it has been there since time
immemorial. Lot of experiment has to be done --- like which plant goes with which one and
how many of these should be planted to overcome the problem
This is good for the vegetables but what about those flowers?
There are a number of flowers which you can add to the garden to get astonishing results.
Geraniums: Attract pests away from roses and grape vines, distracts beet leafhoppers away
from plants like tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, and tobacco.
Marigolds: French marigolds produce a pesticide chemical from their roots, which is so
strong that it lasts years a number of years even if no new ones are planted. These will
repel whitefly. Mexican marigolds will do the same, but their bushiness and height may
affect the growth of some of the tender herbs.
Nasturtiums: Works as a trap crop for aphids, and studies say is among the best at
attracting predatory insects. They will attract Black Fly.
The trees also play their vital role in the Companionship growing.
Planting trees and shrubs is help to beautify any garden provided there is enough space.
Remember some trees are also companion plants. Local, native trees and shrubs will attract
the good pollinating insects (like butterflies, bees, and native wasps), reptiles, beetles and
many other garden helpers.

36 | P a g e
Companion Planting Guide
Plant Companions Function Foes
Apple Nasturtium Climbs tree and repels codling
moth.
Asparagus Tomatoes, Parsley, Basil
Balm Tomatoes Improves growth and flavour -
attracts bees
Basil Tomatoes helps repel flies and mosquitoes Rue
Beans Potatoes Carrots, Cucumber,
cauliflower, summer savory,
most other vegetables and
herbs.
Onions Garlic
Gladiolus
Beetroot Onions, Lettuce, Cabbage,
Silver beet, Kohlrabi
Borage Tomatoes, squash and
strawberries
Deters tomato worm, improves
growth and flavour and in the
strawberry patch will increase the
yield.
Brassica’s
(Cabbage,
Cauliflower, Broccoli
Aromatic plants, sage, dill,
camomile, beets, peppermint,
rosemary, Beans, Celery,
Onions, Potatoes, dwarf
zinnias.
Dill attracts a wasp to control
cabbage moth. Zinnias attract
lady bugs to protect plants.
strawberries,
Tomatoes
Broad beans Potatoes, Peas, Beans
Carrots Lettuce, Peas, Leeks, Chives,
Onions, Cucumbers, Beans,
tomatoes, wormwood, sage,
rosemary
Dill in flower
and being
stored with
apples
Cauliflower Celery
Celery & Celeriac Chives, Leeks, Tomatoes,
Dwarf Beans
Chamomile Cabbages and onions Deters flies and mosquitoes and
gives strength to any plant
growing nearby.
Citrus Bracken Fern grape vines Repels stink beetles
Comfrey Avocados and most fruit trees Garden edging, compost activator,
medicinal, foliage spray, nutrient
miner, essential to all gardens.
Cucumbers Beans, corn, peas, radish,
sunflowers
Potatoes,
aromatic
herbs

37 | P a g e
Dill Brassica’s Dill attracts predator
wasp for cabbage moth.
Fennel (not F. vulgare or
F.officionale) repels flies,
fleas and ants
Most plants dislike it
French Marigold Tomatoes most
vegetables.
Root secretions kill
nematodes in the soil.
Will repel white fly
amongst tomatoes.
Fruit trees nettles, garlic, chives,
tansy, southernwood and
horseradish
Garlic Roses, raspberry helps keep aphids away
from roses and
raspberries, repels
cabbage butterfly
Peas and beans
Geranium Strong aroma - deters
insects and encourages
bees
Grapes Hyssop, tansy and sage
Hyssop Cabbage, grapes Attracts cabbage white
moth keeping Brassica’s
free from infestation.
Radishes
Leek Onion, celery, carrot
Lettuce tall flowers, carrots,
radish, onion family
Flowers offer light shade
for lettuce
Marigolds Tomatoes, most
vegetables
Kills couch, nematodes
and eel worm
Melon Radish
Mint Cabbage, tomatoes Deters white cabbage
moth, deters ants and
fleas (especially
spearmint), will deter
clothes moths.
Nasturtium Radishes, cabbages,
zucchini cucurbits, fruit
trees
Secrete a mustard oil,
which many insects find
attractive and will seek
out, particularly the
cabbage white moth. The
flowers repel aphids and
the cucumber beetle. The
climbing variety grown up
apple trees will repel
codling moth.
Onion and garlic Beets, summer savory,
tomatoes, lettuce,
strawberries, camomile
Parsley Tomato, asparagus, roses Deters rose beetle,
improves tomato and
asparagus.
Peas Carrots, turnips, corn,
beans, radishes,
cucumbers, most
vegetables and herbs
Onions, garlic
gladiolas, potatoes

38 | P a g e
Pumpkin Corn Potato
Pyrethrum Will repel bugs if grown
around the vegetable
garden.
Radish Peas, nasturtium, lettuce,
cucumbers, spinach
Radish attracts leaf minor
away from spinach
Raspberry Most vegetables Blackberries, tomatoes,
potato
Rosemary Cabbage, beans, carrots,
sage
Deters cabbage moth,
bean beetles and carrot
fly
Roses Garlic, chives, parsley,
mignonette lettuce.
Sage Rosemary, cabbage and
carrots
Deters cabbage moth and
carrot fly
Cucumbers
Spinach Strawberries
Squash Nasturtium Corn
Strawberries Bush bean, spinach,
borage, lettuce
Cabbage
Sunflower Cucumbers Potato
Sweet Corn Potatoes, Peas, Beans,
cucumbers, pumpkin,
squash
Corn acts as a trellis for
beans and beans attract
predators of corn pests.
Here and there in the
garden
Protects cabbages,
improves growth and
flavour of vegetables,
general insect repellent.
Tomatoes Asparagus, Parsley,
Chives, onion, Broccoli,
Sweet Basil, marigold,
carrots, parsley.
Turnip Peas, nasturtium, lettuce,
cucumbers
Wormwood
(Artemesia, not
Ambrosia)
Although it can inhibit the
growth of plants near it,
wormwood does repel
moths, flies and fleas and
keeps animals off the
garden.
Yarrow Near aromatic herbs and
vegetables
Plant along borders and
paths. Enhances
essential oil production
and flavour

39 | P a g e
LAWNS
Lush green and a well-maintained lawn is most soothing site in a garden. For healthy and
dense growth, a lawn should get good amount of direct sunlight. Shadow cast by trees with
its large, dense canopy or a tall building near the lawn could harm the lawn. The roots of
the large trees also can compete with lawn; thus near the roots of the tree, the lawn will
grow patchy and sparse.
Preparing the Site: To prepare the bed for the lawn, the ground should be dug out at least
up to 15 cm depth. If the existing soil is of not of good quality, then it is better to replace it
with good fertile soil. For good drainage it is better to put about 3 cm thick layer of
brickbats or coarse gravely soil at the bottom. Over this give a layer of soil and farmyard
manure, thoroughly mixed, in proportion of 3 parts soil and 2 parts farmyard manure. All
stones larger than 2 cm should be removed from this mixture. This layer should be about 6
cm thick. The uppermost layer for lawn surface should be made up by mixing thoroughly,
equals parts of soil and farmyard manure. Stones larger than ½ cm from the soil should be
removed before mixing.
Using a rake levels the soil surface. By raking not only leveling is done, but, large stones, if
left in the soil, can be removed. Large stones left near the soil surface are capable of
damaging the lawn mower blades. After this, drench the site thoroughly with water. This will
help the soil-manure settle well, without leaving large air pockets. When the soil surface
turns drier the site is compressed by using a light lawn roller. If the soil is very wet, then it
will stick to the roller. Unless rolling is done, the soil starts settling down unevenly, thus
spoiling the lawn level.
Lawn Grass Planting: It is advisable to water the bed regularly for a few days before the
lawn is actually planted. In this period the weeds start sprouting. The weeds should be
removed regularly. After the site is comparatively weed-free, tufts of lawn grass can be
planted. At the time of planting, the soil should be moist. Clumps of lawn grass should be
planted at about 5 cm distance. If this is done, a perfect lawn can be prepared in 30 to 40
days. Planting with tufts of grasses is always preferable and cheaper than to sowing lawn
grass seeds. In India most lawns are made by planting tufts only.
Types of Lawn Grasses: Cynodon grass commonly called as Doob grass or Durva is very
sturdy. This grass prefers a very sunny location. It is quite drought resistant. Bermuda
grass, a fine-leaf variety of Cynodon has shorter inter-nodes. Shorter inter-nodes make it
look more dense and carpet-like. Paspalum grass has wide leaf blades. For semi-shady
locations Paspalum will be a better choice. This grass also needs less maintenance, but
looks little coarse compared to Cynodon varieties. Zoysia, commonly called as carpet grass
or jumping grass has a tendency of forming lumpy growth. This makes it unsuitable for the
lawns which are often used as sit outs. Though, due to the lumpy growth, the lawn has its
own beauty, it is one of the difficult ones to maintain. If mowed regularly the lumps are not
formed and in that case its asset of the lumpy growth is lost. Mowing after the lumps are
formed is almost impossible. At this time only lawn shears can be used. Though this carpet
grass feels soft to a bare foot, a freshly mowed Zoysia is capable of poking. Compared to
other grasses, Zoysia spreads slower. In certain cases this is an advantage. Unlike Cynodon

40 | P a g e
and Paspalum, this grass won't easily creep in to flowerbeds surrounding the lawn. If the
location of the lawn is shady or under a tree the best grass to plant is Neelgeri grass. It is
very hardy and grows even in locating with poor sun light.
Bermuda grass Cynodon grass Doob grass Paspalum grass
Zoysia grass Lawn Lawn sprinkler Lawns
Watering: Roots of lawn grasses do not grow very deep; most of the roots are within 10 to
15 cm depth of the soil cover only. That is why thorough drenching of the lawn in not
needed. In fact light sprinkling of water more often is a better method of watering the
lawns. Watering of the lawn should be done only after the top surface of the lawn seems to
be turning dry. In a sandy and well-drained soil and also in raised lawns watering should be
done more frequently. If watering is done in such a manner that the soil surface remains
excessively moist, then green, slippery moss starts growing on the soil surface. This
condition will certainly make the lawn grow sparse. For watering of lawns lawn sprinklers
are available. Alternately, a hose fitted with a rose also may be used. Lawns can be watered
any time of the day. However, it is better to water them in the morning, as in the evenings
normally one likes to relax on the lawn.
Mowing: Mowing of the lawn should be done very regularly; preferably, ones a week.
Allowing the lawn to grow tall and then cutting it very low may save the labour. If cut low,
the brownish-yellow patches of lower leaf blades come in to view. This makes the lawn look
unattractive. So never cut the lawns low. Mow them so that the carpet-like look is imparted.
Small patches of lawns can be cut by lawn shears. For uniform look bigger lawns must be
mowed with lawn mowers.
Lawn mowers are of two types. Wheel type and roller type. Wheel lawn mowers are cheaper
and lighter compared to a roller type of the same size. However, wheel type mowers tend to
get stuck in wet soil. This causes problems in monsoon. Advantage of using a roller type
mower is that, it does not get stuck in wet soil and gives more uniform cuts. As the lawn is
being mowed, a roller mower also levels some minor unevenness of the soil surface. All
lawn mowers have a grass box attached. This box collects grass clippings. Now a day’s
engine driven and electric mowers too are available. In north India, in certain places, a type
of sword is used to cut lawns. The long sword is swung, striking the grass. Sharp edges of
the sword shears the grass. With this method uniform cutting is not possible. This way the
clippings are scattered over a wide area. So cleaning the lawn with a broom becomes
necessary. In remote places, where repairs and maintenance of the mowers becomes
difficult and expensive; and where the labour is cheap, this method of sword slashing of
large lawns is much faster than using a lawn shears.

41 | P a g e
Aftercare: Do not trample lawns. Pathways in lawns can be made with stepping-stones,
alternatively with bricks or tiles. As the grass grows, it tends to form very thick mats of
roots just below the soil surface. This prevents aeration of roots and water from percolating
deep enough. As the surface soil dries quickly, the grasses get starved of water. If the root
mats are carefully examined, one will notice that they are devoid of any soil or manure. In
such a case the lawn grasses tend to compete with each other and start losing the vigour
and gradually turn brownish. To rectify this condition "spiking" of the lawn becomes
necessary. Spiking is a process in which the lawn surface is poked with a pointed instrument
to at least 5 cm depth. For this a garden fork, a crow bar or a pickaxe also can be used.
These implements must be poked in the ground and also pulled out straight (90 degrees to
the soil surface). In foreign countries spiked rollers are available. These rollers simplify the
job of spiking. Before spiking, the lawn should be mowed as low as possible. Closer the
poked holes better will be the results. After spiking is done, the lawn grass should be
covered with finely sieved (3 mm mesh sieve) mixture of 3 parts of farmyard manure and 2
parts of good garden soil. Spiking and top-dressing of a lawn should be done once in 6
months to prevent severe root matting. One may use chemical fertilizers, such as urea, for
lush green look of the lawn. However, the organic manures are must for the lawns. Amongst
the weeds which could cause serious damage to the lawn is Cyprus rotundas. These grass-
like weeds have a widespread, underground root system. They also have underground
runners which produce numerous tubers. When the weed is pulled out, most of the runners
along with tubers remain in the ground only; which continue to grow again and again. So as
soon as this weed is seen sprouting in the lawns, they must be dug out of the ground
without any delay. This will prevent them from forming the underground runners and
tubers.
Ground Covers: Great effort is needed to maintain a perfect lawn. The sprawling open
spaces, which are hardly used as sitting places, can be planted with ground covers. Though
grasses too are ground covers, certain creeping herbs used for covering the grounds are
called as 'ground covers'. Wedelia, Pilea, Pellionia, Plectranthus, Hemigraphis,
Alternanthera, Syngonium, money plant, Tradescantia, Callisia, selaginella, Episcia,
Portulaca, Bramhi, Helxine etc. are very good as ground covers

42 | P a g e
SOIL pH RANGES
5 5.5 5.5-
5.9
6.0–
6.4
6.5-
6.9
7 7.1-
7.5
7.6-
8.0
9
SLIGHTLY ALKALINE
VERY SLIGHTLY ALKLINE
STRONGLY ACID
NEUTRAL
VERY SLIGHTLY ACID
MEDIUM ACID
SLIGHTLY ACID
Soil pH Scale Description:
Note: The pH scale is based on the powers of 10.
For example: a pH level of 5 is 100 times more acidic than a pH of 7.
 pH of: 5.5 and less = Strongly Acid
 pH of 5.5 - 5.9 = Medium Acid
 pH of 6.0 – 6.4 = Slightly Acid
 pH of 6.5 – 6.9 = Very Slightly Acid
 pH of 7.0 = Neutral
 pH of 7.1 – 7.5 = Very Slightly Alkaline
 pH of 7.6 – 8.0 = Slightly Alkaline
Soil pH is simply a measurement of the acidity or alkalinity of a soil. Soil pH is critical
because it affects the health of plants. Before a nutrient can be used by plants it must be
dissolved in soil water (most nutrients dissolve best when the soil is slightly acidic to
neutral). The good news is… Soil pH is easy to check and can be altered / corrected.
The scale range of Soil pH goes from 0 to 14 with the lower end of the scale being Acidic
pH (0 to 6) and the higher end of the scale being Basic pH (8 to14). Most garden and
landscape plants prefer a ph in the range of 6 to 7.2 which is considered closer to Neutral
pHs
If you have a plant that prefers a Soil pH in the range of 6 to 7.2, and your Soil pH is 5
(strongly acidic), your plant is going to have major challenges. On the other hand, some
plants prefer acidic soils to do well. An example is Azaleas which prefer acidic soils to do
best.
Steps to the Correct Soil pH Levels:
1- Determine the best Soil pH for the particular plant or plants you are growing. This can be
found on the package or by asking the lawn and garden professional where the purchase is
made.
2- Determine the Soil pH in your garden area. Do this by taking samples from a few
different areas and testing the mixture. One method to test is using a Soil pH dye kit where
you saturate the soil sample with a dye and the resulting color change tells you the pH
range. Another way is to send your soil sample to a local county extension agent or work
through a local master gardener to get the test results. A third way to measure is with a pH
meter.

43 | P a g e
3- Match up what you will be planting to what your actual Soil pH is. If you are planting
something that needs neutral soil and your ph level is acidic then you need to add
something to the soil to raise the pH level to neutral for example.
Changing the Soils pH Levels:
Lime is usually added to acid soils to increase soil pHs. The addition of lime not only
replaces hydrogen ions and raises soil pH, thereby eliminating most major problems
associated with acid soils but it also provides two nutrients, calcium and magnesium to the
soil. Lime also makes phosphorus that is added to the soil more available for plant growth
and increases the availability of nitrogen by hastening the decomposition of organic matter.
Liming materials are relatively inexpensive, comparatively mild to handle and leave no
objectionable residues in the soil.
The application of anhydrous ammonia as a nitrogen fertilizer contributes to lowering the
Soil pHs. Other elements to add to your soils to lower the pH levels are:
 Acid Sphagnum Peat
 Iron Sulfate
 Aluminum Sulfate
 Elemental Sulfur
Note: Consult a local Agricultural extension Officer if possible before changing your pH
levels because each region has unique sets of environmental circumstances. They will be
able to tell you specifically what to add to your Soil for best results.
Examples of Soil pH Preferences for Plants
Flowers & Soil pH preferences:
Acid Soil: Azaleas, Hydrangea, Protes, etc.
Slightly Acid to Neutral Soil: Roses, Tulips, Waratah, etc.
Neutral to Alkaline Soil: Carnations, Daffodils, etc.
Fruit Crop Soil pH preferences:
Acid Soil: Apples, Macadamia, Nectarine
Slightly Acid to Neutral Soil: Grapes, Peach, Pears, Apricot, etc.
Neutral to Alkaline Soil: Cherry, Plum, Almond, etc.
Vegetable Crop Soil pH preferences:
Acid Soil: Blackberry, Blueberry, Potato, Pumpkin, Strawberry, Watermelon, Rhubarb,
Sweet Corn, Sweet Potato, Raspberry, Squash, Tomato, Turnips, etc.
Slightly Acid to Neutral Soil: Beans, Brussels Sprout, Carrots, Colards, Cucumber, Eggplant,
Garlic, Mustard, Parsley, Peas, Peppers, Radish, Spinach, Watercress, etc.
Neutral to Alkaline Soil: Cabbage, Asparagus, Beetroot, Broccoli, Cabbage, Cauliflower,
Celery, Cress, Leek, Lettuce, Muskmelon, Okra, Onion, etc.
Field Crop Soil pH preferences:
Acid Soil: Cotton, Oats, Peanuts, Linseed, Lupines, etc.

44 | P a g e
Slightly Acid to Neutral Soil: Barely, Corn, Kale, Canola, etc.
Neutral to Alkaline Soil: Chickpeas, Field Peas, Lentils, Safflower, etc.

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