AI_FRM121_W4_A2_NIEMBRO_M

TRENDFORECASTER MNNThe1940 Influences&Transformation
1940´s Influences&Transformation

WWII
World
War
II
dates
from
1939
to
1945,
making
it
the
largest
war.
It
involved
almost

every
part
of
the
world,
spreading
over
30
countries.
It
is
considered
to
be
the

bloodiest
conﬂict
and
the
deadliest
war
on
history,
having
as
result
50
million

military
and
civilians
losses.

Tank,
1942
London,1941

U.S
Marines,
1942
Dive-‐bomber,
Germany

There
were
a
lot
of
fabrics
in
short
supply
like
nylon,
wool,
silk
&
natural
rubber,
due

to
this,
regulaMons
restricMng
clothing
manufacture
were
created.
No
leather
goods

could
be
produced
and
nylon
was
exclusive
for
military
use.
L-‐85
RegulaMons

restricted
the
quanMty
of
cloth
that
could
be
used,
generaMng
alteraMons
on

silhoueSes,
styles
and
decoraMons.

Regulations
17
inch
skirt
length,
1942

Clothing
RegulaMons
WWD,
1942

Since
men
were
enlisted
and
parMcipaMng
in
war,
women
had
to
ﬁll
their
job

posiMons
in
diﬀerent
industries,
the
most
popular
one
were
factories.
This
was
a
big

change
on
the
lifestyle
and
role
of
females,
since
they
took
a
new
role
in
society
that

provided
them
with
more
gender
equality.
Women
working
in
factories
covered
her

hair
with
turbans
or
wore
snoods
to
protect
their
hair
from
geYng
caught
in
the

machinery.

WomenatWork
Rosie
the
Riveter

40´s
Propaganda
promoMng
Women
on
the
Workforce

Film
stars
were
the
fashion
trend
seSers.
Most
of
the
movies
from
this
period

reﬂected
a
patrioMc
theme.
Males
followed
the
style
of
Van
Johnson
(clean-‐cut

American
boy),
and
Spencer
Tray
(Rugged
individualist).
While
females
were

inﬂuenced
by

June
Allyson
(boy
hair
look),
and
Veronica
Lake
(Peek
a
boo
hairstyle).

Movies
Movie,
1939
June
Allyson
Van
Johnson

Nazi
occupaMon
on
Paris
lasted
from
1940-‐1944,
due
to
this
some
couturiers
like

Chanel
closed
their
business
during
war,
while
others
like
Elsa
Schiaparelli
went
to

U.S.
Access
to
French
designers
was
cut
due
to
war
and
the
majority
of
the

populaMon
had
to
create
its
own
style,
while
the
rich
minority
didn't’t
suﬀered
any

change.

FrenchDesigners
Place
Blanche,
1940

Chanel
Shop,
1940

Since
access
to
French
designers
was
cut,
American
designers
were
featured
on

Vogue
&
Harpers
Bazaar
magazines.
The
highest
priced
fashions
were
elaborated

here.
The
most
popular
designers
from
this
period
were:
Claire
McCardell,
Adrian,

Norman
Norell,
and
Pauline
Trigère.

American
designers
earned
an
important

place
ajer
war
since
they
shown
what
they
were
capable
of
doing.

AmericanDesigners
Vogue
America,
1940
Adrian
Suit,
1940

Norman
Norell

Pauline
Trigère

Famous
warMme
designer
that
established
the
“American
Look”
and
pioneered

the
casual
sportswear.
Her
designs
were
radical
but

she
gained
popularity
among

women
due
to
their
comfort.
Famous
for
designing
the
popover
dress,
draped

bathing
suit,
railroad-‐sMtched
denim,
and
string
Med
empire
line
dress.

Thanks
to
her,
matching
separates,
monasMc
dress,
ballet
slippers,
and
the

poncho,
became
popular.

ClaireMcCardell
Popover
dress,
1942

Bathing
Suit,
1942

Evening
gown,
1939

Claire
McCardell,
1940

In
1944
a
exhibit
of
miniature
mannequins
with
latest
french
couture

Sent
to
US
created
by
the
Chambre
Syndicale
to
convince
the
world
that
couture

was
ready
to
provide
leadership
&
raise
funds
for
war
relief.

ThéâtrealaMode
ExhibiMon,
1944

1944
1944

1944

Women
undergarments
were
designed
in
order
to
emphasize
the
curves
of
their

ﬁgures.
Lingerie
of
this
period
was
projected
by
the
pin-‐up
girls
that
were
pictured

in
glamorous,
curvy,
saMn
and
lace
pieces.
Brassieres
were
made
of
printed
calico

duo
to
the
shortage
of
broadcloth.

WomenCurves
40´s
Publicity

40´s
Publicity

40´s
Magazine
Cover

Due
to
the
restricMons,
the
late
30`s
styles
were
“frozen”.
By
the
beginning
of

war,
skirts
became
fuller
and
grew
shorter
(ending
below
the
knee),
shoulders

broadened,
and
pads
were
inserted.
Bias
cut
was
rarely
used.
DayMme

silhoueSes
were
feminine
and
sojly
skimmed
the
body.

WartimeStyle
DayMme
Dress,
1944

WarMme
Fashion

Propaganda

DayMme
Dress,
1942

Coats
from
this
period
are
loosely
ﬁSed
and
have
ranglan
or
dolman
style

sleeves.
They
are
characterized
by
their
large
collars
and
the
padding
on
the

shoulders.
Fur
coats
were
very
popular
and
the
famous
trench
coat
was

created
due
to
military
inﬂuence.

PopularCoats
Propaganda

Trench
Coat,
1940

Wool
coat,
1940

Curvy
coat,
1944

1942

They
were
inspired
by
menswear
but
were
closely
fiSed
to
the
waist
and
had

large
collars.
Bolero
suits
had
short,
curving
jackets
above
the
waist.

Eisenhower
jackets
were
also
seen,
they
had
military
influence
and
were

named
ajer
a
commander;
they
had
a
fiSed
belt
at
the
waist.
Coats
were

also
worn
in
order
to
complement
them.

WomenSuits
Woman
Suits,
1940

1942

1942

1942

1942

Hats
were
considered
and
important
accessory
for
ladies,
the
most
popular

ones
were
the
stocking
cap,
the
ﬂower
hat
with
face
veil
&
the
hat
with
one-‐
side
look.
Small
pillboxes
and
bonnets
were
also
used.
Hair
rollers
were
also

used
in
order
to
create
the
pompadour
hairstyle.

TrendyHats
Hairstyle,
1940

Feathered
Hat,
1941

Propaganda

40´s
Pillbox
Hat

1942

1942

Leather
shoes
were
raMoned
due
to
the
short
supply
of
this
material,
due
to

this
new
materials
were
used.
The
most
popular
materials
and
styles
for

shoes
in
this
period
are
the
following:
jungle
cloth
with
ﬂeece
lining,

gabardine
oxfords,
gabardine
opened
toe,
plaoorm
soled
shoe

NewHeels
1940´s
Pumps

1940´s

1942

1940´s

1940´s

1940´s

1940´s

Sports
were
also
a
big
inﬂuence
over
fashion
since
a
lot
of
clothes
used
to

pracMce
sports
were
also
used
for
leisure.
Women
used

blouses
and

pullovers
with
decoraMve
paSerns,
and
matched
short
sleeve
sweaters
with

long
sleeved
cardigans.
Men
wore
white
shorts
and
knit
tennis
shirts.

Bathing
trunks
were
used
only
on
the
40´s

Sportswear
Propaganda

Magazine

Catalogue

Men
fashion
styles
were
not
much
altered
since
most
of
the
Mme
they
wore

war
uniforms.
The
silhoueSes
remained
almost
the
same
as
in
previous

years,
and
men
in
civilian
clothing
were
ojen
dressed
in
lounge
suits
with

broad
shoulders
and
wide
trousers
belted
high
at
the
abdomen.
English

tailoring
conMnued
to
be
the
best.

Men´sFashion
English
Tailored
Suit,
1940

English
Tailored
Suit,
1942

Tailor
Shop,
1940

Sack
Suits
remained
as
the
style
for
every
occasion,
all
its
pieces
matched
in
color

and
fabric.
Due
to
fabric
shortages
and
regulaMons
on
the
use
of
cloth,
jackets

became
shorter,
and
patch
pockets
and
double
breast
vests
were
eliminated.
Zoot

suits
became
popular
and
were
worn
with
oversized
trousers
and
wide

shouldered
long
jackets.
Tailcoats
and
tuxedos
were
exclusive
for
formal

occasions.

FashionableSuits
1940´s
Men's
Suits

Single
Breasted
Suit,
1945

1940
Man
Suits

Oxford
shoes
became
the
most
popular
style
and
they
were
worn
with
colorful

stockings.
Due
to
the
scarce
in
leather
there
was
a
shortage
on
shoes
and
tennis.

Galoshes
and
rubbers
were
closed
with
zippers,
which
was
now
broadly
used
in

clothing.
Sunglasses
were
ﬁrst
manufactured
for
the
army
and
later
became

popular
among
civilians.

Men´sAccessories
1940´s
Men's
Suits

Oxford
Shoe,
1940

Propaganda

40´s
Acessories
Catalog

Some
men's
clothes
were
influenced
by
military
designs.
Styles
with
this
influence

are
the
Pea

Jackets

with
a
double
breast,
this
were
influenced
by
the
American

Sailors.
BaSle
jackets
are
another
military
style,
they
were
short
in
length
and
had

an
aSached
belt.

MilitaryEssence
1940

1940
1942

Jackets
and
wide
trousers
were
combined
but
didn't’t
matched,
they
had

contrasMng
colours
and
fabrics.
Also
the
tweed
jacket
and
bush
jacket
made
with

short
sleeves,
were
used
to
complement
this
causal
look.

CasualLook
1940´s
Men´s
Fashion

Carolina
Herrara
Resort
2015
collecMon
shows
the
silhoueSe
and
style
of
the
day

dresses
of
the
40´s,
bringing
back
the
essence
of
this
period
with
her
designs.
All

the
dresses
have
a
length
above
the
knee,
full
skirts,
and
emphasis
on
the
waist

by
a
belt
or
a
lace.
Also
they
are
really
feminine
and
sojly
skimmed
the
body.

RunwayDress
Carolina
Herrera,
Resort
2015

This
four
ouoits
are
from
different
designers,
but
from
the
same
season,
A/W
14.

They
all
show
a
military
influence
starMng
for
the
use
of
olive
and
khaki
shades.

Also
on
the
first
picture
a
coat
with
the
40´s
silhoueSe
its
shown,
followed
by
a

jacket
that
has
a
Eisenhower
style
and
made
out
of
leather
that
was
probably

inspired
by
aviators,
the
same
can
be
seen
on
the
last
picture.
The
3rd
ouoit
looks

exactly
as
a
military
uniform,
the
cut
and
silhoueSe
of
the
jackets
and
the
pants

are
clearly
a
replica
into
a
modern
ouoit.

MilitaryRunway
Calvin
Klein
A/W14
Richard
James
A/W14
Dior
Homme

A/W14

This
ﬁve
trench-‐coats
are
form
Burberry
Porsum,
Resort
2015
collecMon.
Trench-‐
coats
were
an
important
garment
from
this
period
since
they
were
created.
Some

of
them
show
military
inﬂuence
which
is
normal,
since
their
creaMon
was
inspired

by
this.
They
are
all
knee
lenghtand
have
the
waist
accentuated
by
a
belt,
they

have
large
collars
and
padding
on
the
shoulder,
which
were
typical
from
the

period.
Except
for
coat
2
and
5
that
have
degraded
colours,
the
rest
show
colours

that
were
popular
on
the
period.

TrenchCoatRunway
Burberry
Porsum,
Resort
2015

This
women
coat
from
Dolce
&

Gabanna
its
the
perfect
example
of

the
silhoueSes
of
this
garment
from

this
period.
It
is
more
ﬁSed
on
the

top
and
has
the
waist
accentuated,

it
has
two
rows
of
buSons
and
a

fuller
skirt
with
knee
length.

OutwearRunway
Dolce
&
Gabbana
F/W
2014

This
women
suit
from
Dolce
&

Gabanna
its
the
perfect
example
of

the
silhoueSes.
The
skirt
its
straight,

with
a
pencil
shape,

and
knee

length.
The
jacket
is
closely
ﬁSed

specially
on
the
waist
and
has
a

large
collar.

SuitRunway
Dolce
&
Gabbana
F/W
2014

References
Research:

•  n.a.
Mens
1940
Fashion.
Vintage
Dancer
Blog,
2011.
Web.
9
Dec.
2014.
<hSp://
www.vintagedancer.com/1940s/a-‐1940s-‐men-‐suit-‐style-‐guide/>

•  n.a.

1940
Woman
Drss
&
Stryle.
Glamour
Daze
Blog,
21
May
2012.
Web.
9
Dec.
2014.
<hSp://
glamourdaze.com/2012/05/easy-‐guide-‐to-‐a-‐1940s-‐womans-‐dress-‐and-‐style.html>

•  Tortora,
Phylilis
and
Keith
Eubank.
Survey
of
Historic
Costume.
5TH.
New
York:
Fairchild
Books,
2010.

eBook.

•  Victoria
and
Albert
Museum.
1940
Fashion.
Victoria
and
Albert
Museum
Oﬃcial
Webpage,
2014.
Web
15

November
2014.
<
hSp://www.vam.ac.uk/users/node/3507>

Pictures:

•  hSp://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/648813/World-‐War-‐II

•  hSp://www.thelindycharmschoolforgirls.com/did-‐someone-‐say-‐scandal-‐no-‐just-‐melbournes-‐hemlines-‐
during-‐the-‐1940s/

•  hSp://www.pinterest.com/pin/42643527692774272/

•  hSp://www.cineforever.com/2010/07/16/june-‐allyson-‐sus-‐peliculas/

•  hSp://www.otherfocus.com/wwii-‐recruiMng-‐poster-‐campaign/

•  hSp://hellogiggles.com/your-‐princess-‐is-‐no-‐longer-‐in-‐another-‐castle/hg_week-‐3-‐wwii-‐posters

•  hSp://www.ﬁndadeath.com/forum/showthread.php?15520-‐Van-‐Johnson/page2

•  hSp://www.imdb.com/Mtle/S0031381/

•  hSp://hair-‐and-‐makeup-‐arMst.com/womens-‐1940s-‐makeup/

•  hSp://www.metmuseum.org/toah/works-‐of-‐art/C.I.45.71.2ab

•  hSp://plumageplume.blogspot.com/2012/04/theatre-‐del-‐la-‐mode.html

•  hSp://www.1940s-‐fashion.com/about-‐1940s-‐lingerie-‐underwear-‐bras-‐corset-‐girdle-‐slips/

•  hSp://glamourdaze.com/2013/02/1940s-‐fashion-‐spring-‐frock-‐parade.html

•  hSp://www.pinterest.com/pin/261068109620899653/

•  hSp://www.mintagevintage.com/fashion/how-‐date-‐vintage-‐clothing-‐1940s/

•  hSps://www.etsy.com/lisMng/102630270/1940s-‐mccall-‐sewing-‐paSern-‐trench-‐coat

•  hSp://theonlineediMon.blogspot.com/2012/10/armed-‐for-‐fashion.html

•  hSp://www.fashion-‐era.com/hats-‐hair/hats_hair_9_hairstyles_history_1940_1945.htm

•  hSp://myvintagevogue.com/gallery/index.php?level=picture&id=1197

•  hSp://fashionpreSyrabbit.blogspot.com/2011/09/fashion-‐1940.html

•  hSp://balMmoreshoeseum.com/onlinemuseum/category/womens-‐shoes/1940s-‐womens-‐
shoes/

•  hSp://www.fashionima.com/war-‐fashion-‐of-‐1940s.html

•  hSp://www.1940s-‐fashion.com/1940s-‐mens-‐suits/

•  hSp://www.retrowaste.com/1940s/fashion-‐in-‐the-‐1940s/1940s-‐fashion-‐for-‐men-‐boys/

•  hSp://www.thelifenostalgic.com/how-‐to-‐dress-‐1940s-‐style-‐for-‐him/

•  hSp://www.vogue.com/slideshow/857862/carolina-‐herrera-‐resort-‐2015-‐runway/#18

•  hSp://www.fashionbeans.com/2014/mens-‐aw14-‐military-‐trend-‐how-‐to-‐wear/

•  hSp://thebesoashionblog.com/womens-‐fashion/marc-‐cain-‐spring-‐summer-‐2015

•  hSp://www.vogue.com/slideshow/858394/boSega-‐veneta-‐fall-‐2013-‐runway/#33

•  hSp://fashiontribes.typepad.com/fashion/2014/05/in-‐the-‐trenches-‐with-‐burberry-‐prorsum-‐
resort-‐2015-‐an-‐apocalyMcal-‐fashion-‐tribe-‐podcast-‐ep104.html

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