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Kitchen Gardening (In Pakistan )
4
 A soil test is the only way to know what nutrients
your plants need. Your soil test results tell you how much
and what type of fertilizer your plants need, tells you the
soil pH--how acidic or alkaline your soil is .
 Also tells about micronutrients and lead. Soil test
Results depend on how well you take the soil sample.
 The sample should reflect the overall lawn or garden
condition. Make a representative sample by collecting
Small amounts of soil from various spots within the target
area.
Soil Test:
Choose the spot in your yard that has the best
soil. You may be able to distinguish the quality
of your soil by looking at your lawn. If it looks
lush and healthy, then the soil supporting it is
probably good for a garden. Don't pick the spot
where the lawn is the worst, and figure you can get
out of reseeding by locating your garden there. And
avoid low spots that stay wet in the spring.
Soil
 Choose a well-drained spot. Find a place for your compost that's convenient to your
kitchen or garden and has well-drained soil. Install compost container. Although not
required, a wire, wood, or plastic container keeps your compost pile looking neat and
prevents animals from scattering food scraps. Choose a 3- to 4-foot-wide container
that comes apart easily and allows plenty of air through to its contents.
 Add layer of brown materials. Carbon-rich dried grass, peat moss, straw, shredded
leaves, and other brown plant materials go into the pile first. Add a 4- to 6-inch layer.
 Add layer of green materials. Make a second, 2- to 4-inch thick layer of nitrogen-rich
green materials, such as fresh grass clippings, vegetable kitchen scraps, or livestock
manure. Add a couple of inches of garden soil, especially if the layer contains food
scraps.
 Moisten and repeat. Alternate layers of brown and green materials until the pile is 3 to
5 feet high (or until the container is full). Moisten each layer with water before adding
the next layer, but don't saturate the pile.
Compost making
As the materials begin to decompose, the pile heats up, but not evenly.
To ensure that all materials break down, mix the pile and keep it moist. Turn the pile
after the center heats up and then cools down. This can take from one to several
weeks, depending on the time of year and size and composition of the materials in the
pile.
Use a garden fork or shovel to mix the contents, blending the inside and outside
materials. Turn it about once a month from April through November. If you start a
compost pile in fall and use the method discussed above, you should have finished
compost by the middle of the next summer.
The compost is ready to use when it's
dark and crumbly. Although some people sprinkle a handful or two of lawn or garden
fertilizer on top of each layer in the pile, you don't need to do this. The fertilizer does
help feed the pile with nutrients and speeds the composting process, but, if added,
be very careful not to add a weed n' feed, which contains herbicides.
Turn the pile.
Fertilizers are essential-mineral raw materials from which plants make food.
Custom-made soil has little natural nutrition, so adding small amounts of balanced nutrition guarantees plants receive what they need.
Plants, like people and animals, need balanced nutrition. Plant nutrition consists of 16 nutrients, 3 of which come from the air. The 13 mineral nutrients man can supply
are abundant throughout the earth, and are mined for use as fertilizers.
Mineral fertilizers are classified as major, secondary, or micro nutrients, depending on how much of each the plants use:
Major Nutrients
Nitrogen (N)—gives green color, rapid growth, high protein, and yield.
Phosphorus (P)—affects early vigor, healthy roots, and quality.
Potassium (K)—produces healthy plants, and high-quality seeds and fruit.
o Secondary Nutrients
Calcium (Ca)—promotes early root growth, high vigor, and seed
formation.
Magnesium (Mg)—associated with chlorophyll, oil, and fat formation.
Sulfur (S)—aids in root growth, green color, and seed production.
o Micro Nutrients or Trace Elements
Zinc (Z)—aids chlorophyll formation.
Boron (B)—increases yield in root crops, affects seed germination and
terminal bud formation.
Manganese (Mn)—aids seed germination and vigor.
Iron (Fe)—associated with chlorophyll formation.
Copper (Cu)—affects enzyme systems in new tissues.
Molybdenum (Mo)—vital to nitrogen fixation by microorganisms, and
nitrogen processes in plants.
Chlorine (Cl)—essential for healthy plant growth
WHY FERTILIZERS?
1. Dig a hole 1 meter wide by 1 meter deep
2. Put kitchen waste such as left over food, vegetables, egg
shells, etc into the hole regularly.
3. Leaves and other organic matter can also be used but
avoid putting bones and meat in the compost to keep
animals away
4. Water daily with wash water
5. Turn the compost regularly to keep allow air in
6. Once the material begins to look like soil it is ready for use
in the garden
Making compost is very easy
Manure is an excellent source of nutrients for soil. Manure from livestock and chickens, much
like compost, is primarily concentrated, decayed plant matter. Nutrients from manure are
easily dissolved and absorbed by the soil for transfer to plants.
Manure should be completely dry and flaky before use. Dry manure will soak up water and
help the soil retain moisture, while wet manure will attract flies and insects that may damage
vegetables. Wet or moist manure also has a very high concentration of nutrients and may be
too strong for most crops. To apply manure, dig it into the top layer of soil.
Manure Tea
Manure can also be mixed with water to form a liquid known as manure tea. As the manure
dissolves in water, the water becomes rich in nutrients and microorganisms. This mixture
contains a high concentration of nutrients and can be used to irrigate gardens or fields. Using
manure tea instead of applying manure directly can help to control weeds, as seeds and other
plant material are filtered off in the tea brewing process.
Manuring
To make manure tea:
1. Fill a large burlap, cloth, or aerated plastic sack (a maize meal bag) with manure from
cattle, goats, or sheep.
2. Tie the sack to the centre of a large stick or pole.
3. Fill a large bucket or other container (50-gallon or 200-liter drums are ideal) with
water.
4. Suspend the sack of manure in the water by placing the stick or pole across the top of
the
container.
The manure will filter through the sack into the water like a tea bag. When the water
becomes
deep brown in color, the manure tea is ready for use in the garden.
Manure tea has a high concentration of nutrients and is very strong. Like fertilizer,
overuse
can contribute to soil acidity and burn plants. Dilute manure tea with water (1:1 ratio)
before
applying
82 . Kitchen gardening ( in pakistan) A Series of Lectures By Mr. Allah Dad Khan Former DG Agriculture Extension KPK , Provincial Project Director CMP II MINFAl Islamabad and Visiting Professor the University of Agriculture Peshawar Pakistan

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82 . Kitchen gardening ( in pakistan) A Series of Lectures By Mr. Allah Dad Khan Former DG Agriculture Extension KPK , Provincial Project Director CMP II MINFAl Islamabad and Visiting Professor the University of Agriculture Peshawar Pakistan

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  • 7.  A soil test is the only way to know what nutrients your plants need. Your soil test results tell you how much and what type of fertilizer your plants need, tells you the soil pH--how acidic or alkaline your soil is .  Also tells about micronutrients and lead. Soil test Results depend on how well you take the soil sample.  The sample should reflect the overall lawn or garden condition. Make a representative sample by collecting Small amounts of soil from various spots within the target area. Soil Test:
  • 8. Choose the spot in your yard that has the best soil. You may be able to distinguish the quality of your soil by looking at your lawn. If it looks lush and healthy, then the soil supporting it is probably good for a garden. Don't pick the spot where the lawn is the worst, and figure you can get out of reseeding by locating your garden there. And avoid low spots that stay wet in the spring. Soil
  • 9.  Choose a well-drained spot. Find a place for your compost that's convenient to your kitchen or garden and has well-drained soil. Install compost container. Although not required, a wire, wood, or plastic container keeps your compost pile looking neat and prevents animals from scattering food scraps. Choose a 3- to 4-foot-wide container that comes apart easily and allows plenty of air through to its contents.  Add layer of brown materials. Carbon-rich dried grass, peat moss, straw, shredded leaves, and other brown plant materials go into the pile first. Add a 4- to 6-inch layer.  Add layer of green materials. Make a second, 2- to 4-inch thick layer of nitrogen-rich green materials, such as fresh grass clippings, vegetable kitchen scraps, or livestock manure. Add a couple of inches of garden soil, especially if the layer contains food scraps.  Moisten and repeat. Alternate layers of brown and green materials until the pile is 3 to 5 feet high (or until the container is full). Moisten each layer with water before adding the next layer, but don't saturate the pile. Compost making
  • 10. As the materials begin to decompose, the pile heats up, but not evenly. To ensure that all materials break down, mix the pile and keep it moist. Turn the pile after the center heats up and then cools down. This can take from one to several weeks, depending on the time of year and size and composition of the materials in the pile. Use a garden fork or shovel to mix the contents, blending the inside and outside materials. Turn it about once a month from April through November. If you start a compost pile in fall and use the method discussed above, you should have finished compost by the middle of the next summer. The compost is ready to use when it's dark and crumbly. Although some people sprinkle a handful or two of lawn or garden fertilizer on top of each layer in the pile, you don't need to do this. The fertilizer does help feed the pile with nutrients and speeds the composting process, but, if added, be very careful not to add a weed n' feed, which contains herbicides. Turn the pile.
  • 11. Fertilizers are essential-mineral raw materials from which plants make food. Custom-made soil has little natural nutrition, so adding small amounts of balanced nutrition guarantees plants receive what they need. Plants, like people and animals, need balanced nutrition. Plant nutrition consists of 16 nutrients, 3 of which come from the air. The 13 mineral nutrients man can supply are abundant throughout the earth, and are mined for use as fertilizers. Mineral fertilizers are classified as major, secondary, or micro nutrients, depending on how much of each the plants use: Major Nutrients Nitrogen (N)—gives green color, rapid growth, high protein, and yield. Phosphorus (P)—affects early vigor, healthy roots, and quality. Potassium (K)—produces healthy plants, and high-quality seeds and fruit. o Secondary Nutrients Calcium (Ca)—promotes early root growth, high vigor, and seed formation. Magnesium (Mg)—associated with chlorophyll, oil, and fat formation. Sulfur (S)—aids in root growth, green color, and seed production. o Micro Nutrients or Trace Elements Zinc (Z)—aids chlorophyll formation. Boron (B)—increases yield in root crops, affects seed germination and terminal bud formation. Manganese (Mn)—aids seed germination and vigor. Iron (Fe)—associated with chlorophyll formation. Copper (Cu)—affects enzyme systems in new tissues. Molybdenum (Mo)—vital to nitrogen fixation by microorganisms, and nitrogen processes in plants. Chlorine (Cl)—essential for healthy plant growth WHY FERTILIZERS?
  • 12. 1. Dig a hole 1 meter wide by 1 meter deep 2. Put kitchen waste such as left over food, vegetables, egg shells, etc into the hole regularly. 3. Leaves and other organic matter can also be used but avoid putting bones and meat in the compost to keep animals away 4. Water daily with wash water 5. Turn the compost regularly to keep allow air in 6. Once the material begins to look like soil it is ready for use in the garden Making compost is very easy
  • 13. Manure is an excellent source of nutrients for soil. Manure from livestock and chickens, much like compost, is primarily concentrated, decayed plant matter. Nutrients from manure are easily dissolved and absorbed by the soil for transfer to plants. Manure should be completely dry and flaky before use. Dry manure will soak up water and help the soil retain moisture, while wet manure will attract flies and insects that may damage vegetables. Wet or moist manure also has a very high concentration of nutrients and may be too strong for most crops. To apply manure, dig it into the top layer of soil. Manure Tea Manure can also be mixed with water to form a liquid known as manure tea. As the manure dissolves in water, the water becomes rich in nutrients and microorganisms. This mixture contains a high concentration of nutrients and can be used to irrigate gardens or fields. Using manure tea instead of applying manure directly can help to control weeds, as seeds and other plant material are filtered off in the tea brewing process. Manuring
  • 14. To make manure tea: 1. Fill a large burlap, cloth, or aerated plastic sack (a maize meal bag) with manure from cattle, goats, or sheep. 2. Tie the sack to the centre of a large stick or pole. 3. Fill a large bucket or other container (50-gallon or 200-liter drums are ideal) with water. 4. Suspend the sack of manure in the water by placing the stick or pole across the top of the container. The manure will filter through the sack into the water like a tea bag. When the water becomes deep brown in color, the manure tea is ready for use in the garden. Manure tea has a high concentration of nutrients and is very strong. Like fertilizer, overuse can contribute to soil acidity and burn plants. Dilute manure tea with water (1:1 ratio) before applying