2 1 Luxury Abaya Penetrates the Wall of Time in a Globalized world - You may not went to Japan or meet someone from japan, but you must been eating Japanese. Food is one way to learn about different culture; moreover, fashion is another way of learning about different culture - Over the years we have seen different ethnic inspiration in fashion. Chinese, Japanese, Indian, African..etc. designs became global trend that can be seen in fashion shows, shops, even streets. But what about the Arabian Gulf fashion, when will we see the Abaya as fashion worn all over the world. - We do see some meddle eastern inspiration used by western and European designers in evening dresses and in beach wear. - In this research I’m discussing the Abaya as an Arabian Gulf luxury fashion. The costumes, outfits and fashion of Arabian Gulf have changed through the years because of the development of the civilization. What used to be worn in the past has been altered into a different style that is beginning to adapt to western in general. One of the fashion items that have not changed is the Abaya, women still wear the Abaya. -The Abaya in the Arabic Gulf countries has it’s own fashion line. So many designers, like Mashail Albuqami, and brands, like My Fair Lady, are well known for their Abaya designs. The Abaya designing are not only limited on the Arab. There is a French Abaya designer Judith Duriez, she has her own line in Dubai that called Arabesque. She decided to be an Abaya designer after she got fascinatedand fall in love with this kind of fashion. Also, big well known brand in fashion like Dolce & Cabbana -The Arabian Gulf like any other place adapted the western style, but still maintain its heritage. -Historical background In order to understand the fashion of the Abaya we need to examine the history of the Abaya. What do you know about the Abaya? The Abaya formed to be this black robe worn by Arab women to cover regular clothes in many areas of the Middle East, especially in the Arab Gulf states. The Abaya considered the uniforms for women in some Arab countries. It is a garment that can be described as a long and mostly black, with long-sleeved. The Abaya covers the entire body except the face, hand and feet. It can be wore with a veil and Niqab, is a full cover of the face except the eyes area. People may differ on the history of Abaya, and where it came from. Some believe that the Abaya has existed since 4000 in the ancient civilization of Mesopotamia, others believe that the origin of Abaya back to the time of the introduction of Islam. In those times, women were wearing robes that appear many areas of the body such as the neck. And even they wore a headscarf to leave the front open (due to the intense heat in the desert areas). After the introduction of Islam, ladies wear headscarves committed to cover all of the head, and cover the censorship and the rest of the body parts to protect them and to show respect and reverence. Some believe ...

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Luxury Abaya Penetrates the Wall of Time in a Globalized
world
- You may not went to Japan or meet someone from japan, but
you must been eating Japanese. Food is one way to learn about
different culture; moreover, fashion is another way of learning
about different culture
- Over the years we have seen different ethnic inspiration in
fashion. Chinese, Japanese, Indian, African..etc. designs became
global trend that can be seen in fashion shows, shops, even
streets. But what about the Arabian Gulf fashion, when will we
see the Abaya as fashion worn all over the world.
- We do see some meddle eastern inspiration used by western
and European designers in evening dresses and in beach wear.
- In this research I’m discussing the Abaya as an Arabian Gulf
luxury fashion. The costumes, outfits and fashion of Arabian
Gulf have changed through the years because of the
development of the civilization. What used to be worn in the
past has been altered into a different style that is beginning to
adapt to western in general. One of the fashion items that have
not changed is the Abaya, women still wear the Abaya.
-The Abaya in the Arabic Gulf countries has it’s own fashion
line. So many designers, like Mashail Albuqami, and brands,
like My Fair Lady, are well known for their Abaya designs. The
Abaya designing are not only limited on the Arab. There is a
French Abaya designer Judith Duriez, she has her own line in
Dubai that called Arabesque. She decided to be an Abaya
designer after she got fascinatedand fall in love with this kind
of fashion. Also, big well known brand in fashion like Dolce &
Cabbana

2. -The Arabian Gulf like any other place adapted the western
style, but still maintain its heritage.
-Historical background
In order to understand the fashion of the Abaya we need to
examine the history of the Abaya.
What do you know about the Abaya?
The Abaya formed to be this black robe worn by Arab
women to cover regular clothes in many areas of the Middle
East, especially in the Arab Gulf states. The Abaya considered
the uniforms for women in some Arab countries. It is a garment
that can be described as a long and mostly black, with long-
sleeved. The Abaya covers the entire body except the face, hand
and feet. It can be wore with a veil and Niqab, is a full cover of
the face except the eyes area.
People may differ on the history of Abaya, and where it
came from. Some believe that the Abaya has existed since 4000
in the ancient civilization of Mesopotamia, others believe that
the origin of Abaya back to the time of the introduction of
Islam.
In those times, women were wearing robes that appear
many areas of the body such as the neck. And even they wore a
headscarf to leave the front open (due to the intense heat in the
desert areas). After the introduction of Islam, ladies wear
headscarves committed to cover all of the head, and cover the
censorship and the rest of the body parts to protect them and to
show respect and reverence. Some believe that the idea of the
head and the body cover associated with a more social level as
being linked to religion only. In pre-Islamic time in the Arabian
Peninsula region, they are wealthy ladies were only wearing
headscarves and cover, as a distinctive sign of wealth and lack
of need for action. They are not allowed to wear the cap for the
poor, and the Bedouin were busy to work in very hot weather
did not bear to wear more layers of clothing. (Alharbi, 2013)
-The evolution of Abaya through times
I asked my Mother about the evolution of the Abaya from

3. her grand mother’s time till today. She lived in Al-Hejaz rejoin
that is located at the west side of the Arabian Peninsula along
withe the Red Sea. Al-Hejaz differs from the rest of the Arabian
Peninsula. It is unique in its multi-cultural ethnic foundation
primarily due to global immigration to Makah and Medina, the
two scared cities for Muslims where Holy Mosques are located.
It has received a special attention by the Islamic world. Which
led to the increasing movement of commerce and the diversity
of cultures. Costume of Al-Hejaz has a lot of influence by tribal
and immigrant fashion. One of the important cities in Al-Hejaz
region is Jeddah, where my mom lived, it is the commercial
capital of Saudi Arabia and it has a commercial port. Since
costumes influenced by the cultural blend and produced a
unique costume line that preserved the tribal foundation and
emphasized the immigrant background, studying the history of
the costumes in this region identified the differences between
Al-Hejaz Abaya.
According to my Mother in the 60s her grandmother’s days
the Abaya looked like a long fitted coat, on top of it there’s a
wide short piece from top to the end of the hips it called
(quona’a) it was all black. In the 70s women stared to wear one
piece Abaya. Her Mother (my grand mother) wears a black wide
Abaya and the fabric start to change to silk and Jersih. When
my mother was a teenager a trend came up for the Abaya. Yang
girls start to wear a shorter Abaya. However, the clothes under
were long enough to cover the body. In the 80s the coat came
back, but this time it was wider than what it was in the 60s, it
called (Balto). Some women prefer the Abaya and some prefer
the Balto. The differences between the Abaya and the Balto
were that the Abaya is open in front unlike the Balto that is
closed with buttons or zippers.
Now days, the Abaya evolved significantly and become an
important custom of the Medal East. It owned a whole fashion
with variety of designs and colors.
-Abaya as fashion
Today, ladies following the Islamic law adhere to wear the

4. head and body cover, or Abaya. The Abaya come in different
shapes and designs, patterns and multiple colors vary depending
on the tastes of women in certain areas following the tradition
of social and religious. Black Abayas are among the most
famous in the Middle East, especially in the Arabian Gulf. As
for the Muslim country's Far East, they prefer to wear other
colored and embroidered gowns in several countries such as
Jordan and some Western countries and now in some Middle
East countries as well. Although black is the favorite color to
wear. Muslim woman can wear any color they want as long as it
does not draw attention. They can wear embroidered colored,
and decorated Abaya on special occasions and important
meetings, or even at any time.
I asked Arabian females who wear the Hijab about their
opinion in the fashion Abaya. Sara Kadi EDD in Organizational
leadership said that fashion is the world of international you
find your style. In any culture and in different customs some
time dress bring life and reflect your characters even if it come
from a culture do not belong to you. For her she pick cloths to
show the world who she is, what she like, and where she would
like to travel. If anyone asked her, if should the Abaya be an
international trend? Her answer will be absolutely yes. For
many reasons. First, The Abaya is a modern fashionable dress
that reflects culture, history and traditions. Then and the most
important it is very flexible piece to designed and get creative
with. We can make it completely different pieces with adding
some patched, laces and colors. Women could wear it open on
jeans, on swimsuits and short dress. Also it could be wear as a
formal dress on heals in big formals parties. It’s a fun and easy
piece to play with. It is very important to put the light on that
many of the present fashion clothes have rooter from the Abaya
like the beaches kimono, caftans, and so many people have been
wearing the Abaya as a modern piece of fashion without giving
the credit to this amazing piece of cloth.
Aya Muways an undergraduate Radiation therapist thinks that
the Abaya can be worn as fashion style and it is not necessary

5. be worn as religious practices. Many people in the Middle East
wear Abaya not only for religious practice but also as cultural
custom. She thinks that Abaya has many features that make us
think it would be a great fashion style. First, it is so
comfortable; the wide cut of it let anyone wear it in many ways,
whether closed or open, plane or designed. Second, it is so
flexible in terms of fashion you can choose from variety of
colors and variety of small details that can change the whole
look. For example, sometimes it can be worn as long plane
colored with kimonos’ cut over a top and short jeans for hurry
morning’s days with comfy simple look, and fashionable look at
the same time. Also, for people who don’t like to wear tight and
short dresses in night occasion events, Abaya is the best choice
for them. It can be made with luxurious material and simple
decorated accessories, which give it a unique look and
fashionable at the same time.
Not every Muslims feel the same about the fashion Abaya
Hadeel has a Masters’ in Health care management think
different about the Abaya. She thinks that Abaya originally
came from religious background. Most Muslims nowadays wear
it. She said Muslims women wear Abaya to cover themselves
from unrelated men. It is a Muslims’ belief that women should
keep their beauty and ornament from strangers (not one of their
first degree relative) men. She thinks it is inappropriately to let
women wear the Abaya for any other reasons than religious.
Women suppose to wear it with modest reasoning and intention
not other than that. She thinks it is against religion and religion
practices when designer use Abaya as a fashion styles.
One day I heard two teenagers’ gills discussing whither
it’s important to wear a fashionable Abaya or a regular Abaya.
One of them was insisted that wearing fashionable Abaya is the
most important. Because it a way of her to express her style.
Yes, it’s for covering, but it doesn’t mean she can’t be stylish
and creative wearing it. The other girl didn’t agree with her.
She doesn’t care about the Abaya she is wearing, she only care
about what she wear under it. The Abaya in her opinion is just

6. to cover up when she go out, and what she wear under is the
most important to her.
For me I agree with Sara and Aya’s opinion.
(use the D&G article for whom not agree with non Muslim
designers designing Abaya)
((“The Problem with Dolce & Gabbana’s Abaya Collection."
Sporazine. (9 Jan. 2016). Web.))
I agree for anyone to design Abaya. However, For Dolce &
Gabbana a big name in fashion world their design should be
more creative that adding just lace and print with the logo Dolce
& Gabbana.
-Ethnic Dress in Modern Fashion Design
Years a go, any designs that is not connected to the
western fashion system labeled as (ethnic dress) or (folk
costume). Which mean that it didn’t reached the global
spectators, and the luxury Abaya is one of them it is also
privileged. The Arabian Gulf is a major producing countries for
the Abaya they also hosted a Abaya fashion trade shows. (Akou
404)
— Need to be analyzed ((Two years later, Joanne Eicher and
Barbara Sumherg elaborated on this idea in a chapter for the
anthology Dress and Ethnicity (1995). Defining "ethnic dress"
as items of dress such as clothing, jewelry, and cosmetics that
are "worn by members of one group to distinguish themselves
from another thy focusing on differentiation" (p. .300), they
created a new term, "world fashion," to describe items like blue
jeans, business suits, T-shirts, and athletic shoes that are worn
by "individuals to convey to others that they are not members of
an esoteric group" (p. 304). By this definition, ethnic dress
separates while world fashion erases differences. A scholar
from Finland, Ritva Koskennurmi-Sivonen, onct- explained to
me that she liked this term because although that country is
geographically on the edge of Europe, people do see themselves
as pan of the West and wear "world fashions" as Eicher and

7. Sumberg described.' Australia is another good example—far
from Europe and North America, but culturally very Western.
Furthermore, since this kind of dress is not worn just in Europe
and North America but all over the world, Eicher and Sumberg
argued that using the term "world fashion" would be more
neutral. In an article for Fashion Theory, Lise Skov agreed,
observing that "it is neither accurate nor desirable to designate
as 'Western' items that are intimate parts of the everyday lives
of millions of people outside the West" (2004:167).)) (Akou
406)
-A new globalized fashion
The Abaya in the Arabian Gulf is a source of pride.
Despite the invasion of fashion culture of all worlds in which
they forgot their heritage and traditions living their pride with
their culture customs. The Abaya invaded the world and became
important globally. Especially in the Arabian Gulf it has
become the best alternative, the most beautiful, and the most
conservative. Evidence indicates that the Abaya is also the
religious commitment in some countries.
The Abaya has been always described as an Islamic
custom. However, with the new globalization it will be come
one of the fashionable designs that everyone will want to have.
The Abaya witnessed a surprising development since the fifties
of the last century until the present day. Many Arabian women
considered the Abaya, as a national identity that represent
women decency and pride that should not be compromise with
it. However, a closer look at the changes that have occurred in
the Abaya bound to monitor extraneous details that took place
due to friction with other cultures on one hand, and change the
rhythm of life on the other.
-Smart Abaya
Perhaps every woman has not dreamed to have suitable
clothing that will be suitable for all kind of weather. It's
necessary to have multiple appropriate clothing for different
kind of weather in our closet. Now days, thanks to the advanced
technology of the Japanese textile factories that have been

8. producing smart fabrics that helps our bodies to breathe
comfortably. The technology owns special techniques that are
developed to be friendly to our bodies and adapting to the
climate. Also, it compatible with the standards that protect the
environment at the same time. (Bukari 2011)
"Salem Al Ammari" the Executive Director and the
Founder of the Amari fabrics, it is the main center of smart
fabrics in Jeddah Saudi Arabia. Al Ammari was interviewed
with a well known magazin in the Arabian Gulf called Ana
Zahra "I am a flower." In this artical he was discussing the idea
of smart fabrics after he studied the nature of the clothing worn
by Gulf women and the affect by desert climate that is usually
suny and warm. from here his mind start to search for
technological textile that fit the nature life of the Arabian Gulf.
Furthermore, the idea was proposed first to a textile factory in
Japan and they produced the smart fabric successfully. After the
resounding success they began to produce more in Indian and
Indonesian factories because of the high demand. (Bukari 2011)
Over the past years the smart fabrics sales went high,
which registered a significant increase in the Saudi Arabian
market by 60 percent. The availability of smart fabric in Saudi
Arabia is estimated by only 20 percent of the total availability
of fabrics in the market. Customers are still unaware of the
environmental benefits of the smart fabrics and how fast it
adapts to the atmosphere. The need to smart fabrics go to many
highlights factors like the atmosphere in Saudi Arabia and the
Arabian Gulf in general of humidity and high temperatures. The
tissues in these smart fabrics can respond efficiently to any
important changes accuracy both in temperature or light
intensity or other changes that can occur in the surrounding.
When the fabric is worn by a person the fibers on the fabric
contribute and conversion to a suitable fabric of the situation
existing automatically and lies its own technical changes.
(Bukari 2011)
The way that this fabric made is they are woven from
natural plant fiber that can be self-controlled without any

9. external stimulation. In that sense, the fibers can breathes and
has a quick ability to sense the climate, so in cold weather it
response and give warmth to the and in warmth it will cool the
body. On the basis of this concept smart fabrics will be able to
provide us with the necessary comfort and care during the usual
performance of activities of our daily life. (Bukari 2011)
Now a day technology become part of every and any thing and
using the technology will defiantly make the Abaya more
modern and compete in local and international fashion market.
As an Arabian Muslim female who is prude of who I’m and
where I’m from. I want to spread my beautiful culture and make
anyone aware of it and appreciate it. The whole world adapts
the western style. It time to change, every culture around the
world has their own beauty that needs to be shared and
appreciate. Without culture there is no identity, no life, and no
future to fashion creativity.
References
Alharbi, S. (2013-2012). The Abaya. Archaeological Studies, 1-
78.
Al-Qasimi, Noor. "Immodest Modesty: Accommodating Dissent
and the 'Abaya-as- Fashion in the Arab Gulf States." Journal of

10. Middle East Women's Studies. 6.1 (2010): 46-74. Web.9
Akou, H. M. (2007). Building a New 'World Fashion': Islamic
Dress in the Twenty-first Century. Fashion Theory: The Journal
of Dress, Body & Culture, 11(4), 403-421.
Bukari, F. (2011, February 25). Breathe Abaya? Discover the
secret with smart fabrics. Ana Zahra.
Elsevier B.V.(2016). Fashion in Saudi Arabia: The couture-
buyer beneath the abaya.
Казакевич, К. (12, March 12). The Middle East: Favorable
Textile Exports to Middle East. Retrieved from
http://puppetleg.blogspot.com
Kopnina, H. (2007). The World According to Vogue: The Role
of Culture(s) in International Fashion Magazines. Dialectical
Anthropology, 31(4), 363-381.
Nikkei. (2016, March 28). Japanese fabric makers find eager
market in Middle East. Retrieved April, from
http://asia.nikkei.com/Business/Trends/Japanese-fabric-makers-
find-eager-market-in-Middle-East.
Marjorie, K. (2010). Clothes, Culture, and Context: Female
Dress in Kuwait. Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body &
Culture.
Mossière, G. (2011). Modesty and style in Islamic attire:
Refashioning Muslim garments in a Western context.
Contemporary Islam, 6(2), 115-134.
Shimek, E. D. (2012). The Abaya: Fashion, Religion, and
Identity in a Globalized World. Lawrence University honors
projects.
Hansen, K. T.. (2004). The World in Dress: Anthropological
Perspectives on Clothing, Fashion, and Culture. Annual Review
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“The Problem with Dolce & Gabbana’s Abaya Collection."
Sporazine. (9 Jan. 2016). Web.