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“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with
Reactive Dye.”
©Daffodil International University i
FACULTY of ENGNIEERING
DEPARTMENT of TEXTILE ENGINEERING
Effect of Salt and Soda Ash Concentration in Dyeing
of Single Jersey Cotton Fabric with Reactive Dye
Course code:TE-4214
Course title:Project(Thesis)
Submitted by:
Shourav Das ID: 133-23-3633
Avijit Biswas ID: 133-23-3649
Supervised by
Prof. Dr. S. M. Mahbub-ul-HaqueMajumder
Pro-Vice Chancellor
Daffodil International University
A thesis in partial fulfillment of the requirement for the Degree of Bachelor of Science in
Textile Engineering.
Advance in Wet Processing Technology
12th
July 2017
“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with
Reactive Dye.”
©Daffodil International University ii
Letter of Approval
August 12, 2017
To
The Head
Department of Textile Engineering
Daffodil International University
102 Sukrabad,Mirpur Road, Dhaka 1207
Subject: Approval of final year project report.
Dear Sir,
I am writing to let you know that this project report titled as “Effect of salt and soda ash
concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dyes.” has been
completed for final evaluation. The whole report is prepared based on proper investigation and
understanding though critical analysis of empirical data with required belongings. The students
were directly involved in their project activities and the report becomes vital to spark off many
valuable information for the readers.
Therefore, it will highly be appreciated if you kindly accept this project report and consider it for
final evaluation.
Yours Sincerely,
Prof. Dr. S. M. Mahbub-ul-HaqueMajumder
Pro-Vice Chancellor
Daffodil International University
“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with
Reactive Dye.”
©Daffodil International University iii
DECLARATION
We hereby declare that the work which is being presented in this thesis entitled, “Effect of salt
and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye” is
original work of us, has not been presented for a degree of any other university and all the
resource of materials uses for this thesis have been duly acknowledged.
_______________________ _________________
Shourav Das Date
_______________________ _________________
Avijit Biswas Date
This is to certify that the above declaration made by the candidates is correct to the best of my
knowledge.
_______________________ _________________
Prof. Dr. S. M. Mahbub-ul-HaqueMajumder Date
Pro-Vice Chancellor
Supervisor
“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with
Reactive Dye.”
©Daffodil International University iv
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
Above all, we praise the almighty God who gave us His enabling grace to successfully complete
this research work.
With sincerity, we extend my warm and deep appreciation and gratitude to our supervisor, Prof.
Dr. S. M. Mahbub-ul-HaqueMajumder forhis unreserved guidance and support to come up
with this research work. Being working with him, we have not only earned valuable knowledge
but were also inspired by his innovativeness which helped to enrich my experience to a greater
extent. His ideas and way of working was truly remarkable. we believe that this research could
not be finished if he did not help me continuously.
We are thankful to Prof. Dr. Md. MahbubulHaque, Head of the Textile Engineering
Department of Textile Engineering, Daffodil International University and Tanvir Ahmed
Chowdhury, Assistant Professor Department of Textile Engineering, Daffodil International
University for their kind help and advice.
We would also like to thank all who responded to our questionnaires and interviews, which
helped us in coming up with this research.
We are grateful to our all colleagues for their encouragement for this research work.
Finally, we express our sincere gratitude to our father, mother, brother and sister for their
continuous support, ideas and love during our studies.
-The Author
“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with
Reactive Dye.”
©Daffodil International University v
Dedicated
To
Our Respected Parents
“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with
Reactive Dye.”
©Daffodil International University vi
ABSTRACT
This study makes an assessment onthe effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of
single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dyes. At the beginning, a brief introduction is given
with suitable literature review. During research, we have applied four types of recipe with
changing salt &soda ash concentration. We dyed 6 samples with Reactive dyes with
concentration of salt &soda ash. Other chemicals and dyes are same for each recipe. Indyeing
cotton Knitted fabric, reactive dyes are mostly used. Soda ash changes the pH of the fiber-
reactive dye and cellulose fiber so that the dye reacts with the fiber, making a permanent
connection that holds the dye to the fiber. Salt decreases solubility of dyes in liquor and increases
affinity between dyes and fiber under moist condition. For this study, we collected samples of
100% cotton single jersey knit fabric. Firstly, we dyed those samples by reactive dyes. After that
we tested the rubbing fastness and wash fastness of those samples. Then we collected data from
those tests and analyzed them. After analyzed we got results which indicate that salt and soda ash
concentration has impact in dyeing dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.
“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with
Reactive Dye.”
©Daffodil International University vii
INDEX
SL. No. Topic Name Page No.
CONTENTS PAGE
LETTER OF APPROVAL ii
DECLARATION iii
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT iv
DEDICATION v
ABSTRACT vi
INDEX vii
CHAPTER-1: INTRODUCTION
1.1 Research Background 02
1.2 Objectives: 02
CHAPTER-2: LITERATURE REVIEW
2.1 Theory 04
2.1.1 Reactive dye 04
2.1.2 Chemical structure of reactive dyes 05
2.1.3 History 05
2.1.4 Classification of reactive dyes 07
2.1.5 Properties of reactive dye 07
2.1.6 Dyeing mechanism of reactive dye 07
2.1.7 Application method 08
2.1.8 Why it is called Reactive Dye 09
2.1.9 Reason of Popularity of Reactive dye 09
“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with
Reactive Dye.”
©Daffodil International University viii
2.1.10 Importance of Reactive Group Present in Reactive Dye 09
2.1.11 Name of Same Reactive Dyes with company and origin 11
2.1.12 Process Flow Chart Of Knit Fabric Dyeing With
Reactive Dyes
11
2.1.13 Which Fibers can be dyed with Reactive Dye 16
2.1.14 Hydrolysis of reactive dye 17
2.1.15 Stripping of reactive dye 17
2.1.16 Influencing factors or controlling parameters of dyeing 18
2.1.17 Dyeing problem with the type reactive dyes and its
prevention
18
Soda Ash
2.2.1 Soda Ash 19
2.2.2 Types of Soda Ash 19
2.2.3 Hydration 20
2.2.4 Alternative of soda ash 20
2.2.5 Material Used To Produce Soda Ash 21
2.2.6 General chemical properties of soda ash 22
Knitting
2.3.1 Basic About knitting 23
Rubbing Fastness
2.4.1 Rubbing Fastness
26
“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with
Reactive Dye.”
©Daffodil International University ix
2.4.2 Colour fastness to Rubbing/crocking Test Procedure 28
2.4.3 Assessment of the specimen 31
CHAPTER-3: SIGNIFICANCE & SCOPE OF THE STUDY
3.1. Significance 34
3.2. Scope of the study 34
CHAPTER-4: RESEARCH METHODOLOGY
4.1. Flow chart of our Research 36
4.2. Sample Collection 37
4.2.1. Recipe for the dyeing process of the knit fabric is given
below
37
4.2.2. Rubbing fastness test 38
4.3.1. Wash fastness test 39
4.3.2. Procedure 40
4.3.3. Grade for Wash Fastness 40
4.4. Sample Attachment 42
CHAPTER-5: ANALYSIS & FINDINGS
5.1.1. Data Analysis for Salt variation 46
5.1.2. Data Analysis for Soda variation 47
CHAPTER-6: CONCLUSION
REFERENCES 51
“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with
Reactive Dye.”
©Daffodil International University 1
CHAPTER-1:
INTRODUCTION
“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with
Reactive Dye.”
©Daffodil International University 2
For dyeing cotton & other cellulose fiber reactive dyes are mostly used. These dyes gained such
popularity because of if s good fastness, lower cost, simple dyeing method, good reproducibility
and etc. When we dye a cotton fabric we need choose a dye which has good fastness properties
with good shade. For all those reason reactive is widely used in the Textile industries. It is
available and cheap. In our market different types of soda ash are available, but all soda ash does
not show same properties for dyeing. As a result effect can be change or fastness properties can
be change. In order to determined the color fastness of dyed or printed textiles or leather, this test
is used for the determination of color fastness against rubbing, either under dry or under wet
conditions.
1.1 Research Background:
 For each bath we dyed 1 samples with different concentration of salt/soda ash60/12.5
gm/l,60/10 gm/l,50/15 gm/l,60/20 gm/l ,70/15 gm/l ,80/20 gm/l and other chemical and
dyes are same for each bath.
 Then for evaluating comparison we have done shade check, rubbing and color fastness
test for finding variation of rubbing and wash fastness due to variation of salt and soda
ash percentage.
 Then we can make a decision about salt and soda ashthat which one concentration is best
for the cotton knit fabric with reactive dye for rubbing and wash fastness.
1.2Objectives:
 To know about the reactive dye.
 To know about the knit fabric.
 To know about the soda ash.
 To know about the rubbing fastness test.
 To know about wash fastness
 To know about the salt/soda asheffect of rubbing and wash fastness of knit fabric.
 To know about the process rubbing in wet and dry condition.
 To know about the dyeing process of reactive dye
 To know about the assessment of the specimens by gray scale.
 To know about the working principle of crock meter
 To know how to improve the rubbing and wash fastness of knit fabric.
 To know about multi-fibers.
“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with
Reactive Dye.”
©Daffodil International University 3
CHAPTER-2:
LITERATURE REVIEW
“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with
Reactive Dye.”
©Daffodil International University 4
Reactive dye
2.1 Theory:
Dyes:
That entire compound contains chromophore group and react with others material physically and
chemically and when light reflects from that materials makes it colorfully is called dyes or
dyestuff. Dyes are unsaturated complex compound.
2.1.1 Reactive Dye:
A dye which is capable of reacting chemically with a substrate to from a covalent dye-substrate
linkage is known as a reactive dye.
Here the dye contains a reactive group and this reactive group makes covalent bond with the
fibre polymer and act as an integral part of fibre .This covalent bond is formed between the dye
molecules and the terminal –OH (hydroxyl) group cellulosic fibres or between the dye molecules
and the terminal amino (-NH 2) group of polyamide fibres.
The general formula of reactive dye can be written as following
D-X-Y
Here,
 D=Dye part(color producing part).
 X=Bridge.
 Y=Functional group.
D-X-Y+ Fibre = Fibre covalent bond.
This is shown in reactions below-
D-SO2-CH2-CH2-SO3Na+HO-Cell= D-SO2-CH2-CH2-O-Cell+NaHSO3
D-SO2-CH2-CH2-SO3Na+H2N-Wool= D-SO2-CH2-CH2-NH-Wool+ NaHSO3
Here,
“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with
Reactive Dye.”
©Daffodil International University 5
 D=dye part
 Wool=Wool polymer.
 Cell=Cellulose polymer
2.1.2 Chemical structure of reactive dyes:
Chemical structure of reactive dyes
Here,
D= dye part or chromogen (color producing part)
Dyes may be direct, acid, disperse, premetallised dye etc.
B = bridging part.
Bridging part may be –NH- group or –NR- group.
G = reactive group bearing part.
X= reactive group
2.1.3 History:
The historical development of the synthetic dyestuffs dates back to 1856, when eighteen year
old, W.H. Perkin discovered the synthesis of Mauveine, a basic dye, by accident, while he was
engaged in the study of the action of potassium dichromate on aniline sulphate. He successfully
converted the process he had developed in laboratory to a large-scale production, and
demonstrated the application of the dye on silk. The intermediates nitrobenzene and aniline
required in the production were also made commercially by him. Nitrobenzene was earlier
prepared by Mansfield in 1847.
On he occasion of 100 years celebration of synthetic dye manufacturing, two chemists of ICL
Company (UK) named Sttephen&Rattee tried to manufacture new dye stuff. Thus they succeed
“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with
Reactive Dye.”
©Daffodil International University 6
to invent a new dye in 1956 which was named Reactive dye. This was manufactured for dyeing
cellulosic fibres. The 1st
three Reactive dyes were Procion Yellow R, Procion Brilliant Red 2B
&Procion Blue 3G. for this effort hey were awarded gold medal of the society of Dyes &
Colorists for the year 1960. The dye to our country in mid 60's& became popular during 80's.
Reactive dyes first appeared commercially in 1956, after their invention in1954 by
Rattee&Stepheness at the Imperial chemical Industry (ICI). Dyestuffs Divion site in Bleckley,
Manchetor. UK. .
2.1.4 Classification of reactive dyes:
Reactive dyes may be classified in various ways as below:
1) On the basis of reactive group:
a) Halogen (commonly chlorine) derivatives of nitrogen containing heterocycle, like 3 types-
· Triazine group
· Pyridimine group
· Quinoxaline dyes
Example:
Triazine derivatives: procion, cibacron.
Pyridimine derivatives: reactone
Quinoxaline derivatives: levafix.
b) Activated vinyl compound:
· Vinyl sulphone
· Vinyl acrylamide
· Vinyl sulphonamide.
Example:
Vinyl sulphone: remazol
Vinyl acrylamide: primazine
Vinyl sulphonamide: levafix.
2) On the basis of reactivity:
a) Lower reactive dye: Medium reactive dye: here pH is maintained 11-12 by using Na2CO3 in
dye bath.
b) Higher reactive dye: here pH is maintained 10-11 by using NaHCO3 in dye bath.
3) On the basis of dyeing temperature:
a) Cold brand:
These types of dyes contain reactive group of high reactivity. So dyeing can be done in lower
temperature i.e. 320-600C.
For example: PROCION M, LIVAFIX E.
“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with
Reactive Dye.”
©Daffodil International University 7
b) Medium brand:
This type of dyes contains reactive groups of moderate reactivity. So dyeing is done in higher
temperature than that of cold brand dyes i.e. in between 600-710C temperatures.
For example, Remazol, Livafix are medium brand dyes.
c) Hot brand:
This type of dye contains reactive groups of least reactivity. So high temperature is required for
dyeing i.e. 720-930 C temperature is required for dyeing.
For example PRICION H, CIBACRON are hot brand dyes.
2.1.5 Properties of reactive dye:
1) Reactive dyes are cationic dyes, which are used for dyeing cellulose, protein and polyamide
fibres.
2) Reactive dyes are found in power, liquid and print paste form.
3) During dyeing the reactive group of this dye forms covalent bond with fibre polymer and
becomes an integral parts of the fibre.
4) Reactive dyes are soluble in water.
5) They have very good light fastness with rating about 6. The dyes have very stable electron
arrangement and can protect the degrading effect of ultra-violet ray.
6) Textile materials dyed with reactive dyes have very good wash fastness with rating Reactive
dye gives brighter shades and has moderate rubbing fastness.
7) Dyeing method of reactive dyes is easy. It requires less time and low temperature for dyeing.
8) Reactive dyes are comparatively cheap
9) Reactive dyes have good perspiration fastness with rating 4-5.
10) Reactive dyes have good perspiration fastness.
.
2.1.6 Dyeing mechanism of reactive dye:
The dyeing mechanism of material with reactive dye takes place in 3 stages:-
1. Exhaustion of dye in presence of electrolyte or dye absorption.
2. Fixation under the influence of alkali.
3. wash-off the unfixed dye from material surface.
Now they are mentioned below:
Dye absorption:
When fibre is immersed in dye liquor, an electrolyte is added to assist the exhaustion of dye.
“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with
Reactive Dye.”
©Daffodil International University 8
Here NaCl is used as the electrolyte. This electrolyte neutralize absorption. So when the textile
material is introduces to dye liquor the dye is exhausted on to the fibre.
Fixation:
Fixation of dye means the reaction of reactive group of dye with terminal –OH or-NH2 group of
fibre and thus forming strong covalent bond with the fibre and thus forming strong covalent bond
with the fibre. This is an important phase, which is controlled by maintaining proper pH by
adding alkali. The alkali used for this create proper pH in dye bath and do as the dye-fixing
agent. The reaction takes place in this stage is shown below: -
3. Wash-off:
As the dyeing is completed, a good wash must be applied to the material to remove extra and
unfixed dyes from material surface. This is necessary for level dyeing and good wash-fastness. It
is done by a series of hot wash, cold wash and soap solution wash.
2.1.7 Application method:
These are 3 application procedures available:
1. Discontinuous method-
-Conventional method
-Exhaust or constant temperature method
-High temperature method
-Hot critical method.
2. Continuous method-
-Pad-steam method
-Pad dry method
- Pad thermofix method
3. Semi continuous method-
- Pad roll method
- Pad jig method
- Pad batch method.
Different methods of reactive dye application:
1) Pad-batch method.
“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with
Reactive Dye.”
©Daffodil International University 9
Pad batch processes are of two types-
a) Pad (alkali)-batch (cold) process.
b) Pad (alkali)-batch (warm or hot) process.
2) Pad dry method
3) Pad steam method
2.1.8 Why it is called Reactive Dye
Reactive dyes react with the fibres. Mainly react with cellulose fibres, e.g. cotton, jute,
bastfibres, viscose, flax. It can be applied to protein fibre e.g. wool & silk. Reactive dye contains
reactive group & this reactive group makes covalent bonds with the fibres& becomes part of the
fibre.
2.1.9 Reason of Popularity of Reactive dye:
Lower cost
Simple dyeing method good reproducibility
Low dyeing temperature
Ability to produce bright shade
Dye molecular composition
2.1.10Importance of Reactive Group Present in Reactive Dye:
Reactive group do not contribute color which is determined dyechromogen
group
The reactive group of vinyl sulphone group is less than halogen group
If number of reactive group increase, binding also increase depending ondye structure
Reactive dye absorb up to 90%
If the molecular weight of the reactive group increase, reactivity also
increase
Reactive of vinyl sulphone group increase with increase of pH &
Temperature
“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with
Reactive Dye.”
©Daffodil International University 10
Sulphone group has more solubility but it is not stable
Reactive of Fluorine is the least & its rate of hydrolysis is also less.
2.1.11 Name of Same Reactive Dyes with company and origin:
Trade Name Company Country
Cibacron Cibageigy Switzerland
Diamarene Sandoz Switzerland
Reactone Cibageigy Switzerland
Levafix Bayer Germany
Remazol Hoechst Germany
Livafix Bayer Germany
Priazin BASF Germany
Sumifix --------- Taiwan
Procion ICI UK
Cavalite Dupont USA
Mikacion Mitshui Chemical Co. Ltd. Japan
Uhopid People's China China
Table-1: Reactive dyes, Company and Origin.
The trade names and manufacturers are more important ranges of these Reactive Dyes are shown
in.
Reactive Group Fixation temperature (°c) Relative reactivity
Dichlorotriazin 30 1
Difluorochloropyrimi 40 2
Dichloroquinoxaline 50 3
Monoflurotriazine 60 3
Vinylsulphone 80 4
Monochlorotriazine 95 5
Dichloro- and trichloro-
pyrimidine
95 6
Table-2: Properties of major types of Reactive dye.
Symmetrical dye structures with two identical reactive group, e.g. two monochlorotriazine
groups in procion H-E/H-EXL dyes, have led to products with better compatibility, more
reproducible exhaustion and higher fixation efficiency. More recently reactive dyes with two
“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with
Reactive Dye.”
©Daffodil International University 11
dissimilar reactive groups per molecule have been developed, including the SumifixSupra(NSK)
range, in which each dye molecule has a monochlorotriazine and a sulphatoethylsulphone group
attached. A new range of remazol reactive dyes is believed to be of a similar constitution.
In the past reactive dyes were usually classified as cold dyeing ( highly reactive) or hot dyeing (
moderately reactive). In more recent times dyes have been developed foe dyeing at intermediate
temperatures or at long liquor ratios, as well as by continuous methods.
2.1.12 Process Flow Chart Of Knit Fabric Dyeing With Reactive Dyes:
Fabric received from the batching section
↓
Required amount of water was taken into the machine
↓
The fabric was loaded and run for 5-10 minutes in normal temperature
↓
CK-2, D-600/C, SQ-12UD and PH-100(Scouring Chemicals) were added at a time for 5 minutes
↓
Caustic was added at normal temperature for 5 minutes
↓
Temperature increased at 600
C
↓
Hydrogen per Oxide (H2O2) was added for 5 minutes
↓
Temperature increased at 950
C and continues for 1 hrs
“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with
Reactive Dye.”
©Daffodil International University 12
↓
Sample check
↓
Cold wash at 400
C for 5-10 minutes
↓
Hot wash at 950
C for 5-10 minutes
↓
Required amount of water was loaded
↓
Croak-N was added
↓
Acetic acid was added
↓
Temperature increased at 800
C for 15-20 minutes
↓
Cold wash at 400
C and drain
↓
Water filled and Acetic acid was added
↓
PH
check at 4.5
↓
Temperature increased at 550
C
“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with
Reactive Dye.”
©Daffodil International University 13
↓
Enzyme (Bio-EC) was added and run for 1hrs at 550
C
↓
Shade check
↓
Cold wash at 400
C and drain
↓
Water filled/Required amount of water was taken
↓
Temperature increased at 95-990
C for 5-10 minutes
↓
Cold wash at 400
C and drain
↓
Acetic acid was added
↓
PH
check at 4.5
↓
EDX/200B and C/D-600 were added at a time
↓
Salt dosing
↓
Color dosing for 30 min
“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with
Reactive Dye.”
©Daffodil International University 14
↓
Run for 10 min
↓
Soda ash dosing for 40 min
↓
Run for 7 min
↓
Temperature increase at 600
C for 5 min
↓
Run for 10 min
↓
Shade check (OK)
↓
Rinsing
↓
Water was filled at required amount
↓
PS-60 was added
↓
Temperature increase at 800
C for 10 min
↓
Hot wash at 900
C for 20 min and shade check in this time (OK)
“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with
Reactive Dye.”
©Daffodil International University 15
↓
Rinsing
↓
Water was filled at required amount
↓
Acetic acid was added for neutralization for 10 min
↓
Shade check (ok)
↓
ECO/FRD was added for 10 min
↓
Rinsing
↓
Water was filled at required amount
↓
PH
check at 6.5
↓
(C.W.S) softener was added
↓
Final shade checks and run for 20 min
↓
Unload the dyed fabric
“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with
Reactive Dye.”
©Daffodil International University 16
2.1.13 Which Fibers can be dyed with Reactive Dye:
By reactive dyes the following fibres can be dyed successfully:
1) Cotton, rayon, flax and other cellulosic fibres.
2) Polyamide and wool fibres.
3) Silk and acetate fibres.
It covers a wide range of color spectrum and includes shades varying from bright to heavy dark
like,
a. Violet
b. Blue
c. Green
d. Red
e. Black
f. Yellow
g. Etc.
Assistants used for dyeing with reactive dyes:
Salt:
As a salt, NaCI is used widely. The salt end the following things-
1. Salt are used to increase the affinity of dye to fibre.
2. It decreases the hydrolysis rate of dyes.
3. It neutralize the electro negativity of fibre surface when immersed in solution.
4. It puts extra energy to push dye the fibre polymer ie increase absorption.
 The amount of salt used depend upon the shade to be produced-
 For light shade -10-20 gm/litre salt is used.
 For medium shade-30-50 gm/litre is used.
 For deep shade-60-100 gm/litre is used.
Alkali:
Alkali is used for the following purpose-
1. Alkali is used to maintain proper pH in dye bath & thus to create alkaline condition.
2. Alkali is used as a dye fixing agent.
3. As strong alkali caustic (NaOH) is used to create pH 12-12.5 when the dye is of lower
reactivity.
“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with
Reactive Dye.”
©Daffodil International University 17
4. As medium alkali soda ashash(Na2CO3) is used to create pH 11-12. when the dye is of
medium reactivi
5. As weak alkali (NaHCO3) is used to create pH 10-11. when the dye is of high reactivity.
Urea:
Urea is used in continuous method of dyeing .It helps to get required shade of dye. To get dark
shade more urea is used and for light shade less amount of urea used.
Soaping:
By soaping the extra colour is removed from fibre surface thus Wash fastness is improved
.Soaping increases the brightness and Stability of dye.
2.1.14 Hydrolysis of reactive dye:
Under alkaline reactive dye reacts with the terminal hydroxyl group of cellulose. But if the
solution of the dye kept for long time its concentration drops. Then the dye react with the
hydroxyl (OH) group of water. This reaction of dye with water is known as hydrolysis of
reactive dye. After hydrolysis dye con not react with fiber. So hydrolysis increases the loss of
dyes.
Hydrolysis of halogen containing reactive dyes:
D-R-Cl + H-OH ---------------- DR-OH + HCl
Hydrolysis of activated vinyl compound containing group:
D-F-CH2-CH2-OSO3H + H-OH ------------- D-F-CH2-CH2- OH + H2SO4
2.1.15Stripping of reactive dye:
Partial stripping: Partial stripping is obtained by treating the dyed fabric with dilute acetic acid
or formic acid. Here temperature is raised to 70-100 C and treatment is continued until the shade
is removed by desired amount.
 Acetic acid -------------- 0.5 - 10 g/L
 Temperature ----------- 70 – 100 C
Full stripping: For complete stripping the goods are first treated with sodium hydro sulphite
(hydrose) at boil and then washed off and bleached with 1 g/L sodium hypochlorite (NaCl) or
bleaching powder at room temperature. This is carried out as following steps-
Wetting agent ------ 0.5 – 1.0 g/L
NaOH -----------------3-6 g/L (Temp100-105 x 60-30min)
“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with
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Hydrose---------------7-10g/L
Then,
Wetting agent --------------1g/L (RoomTemp x 10min)
Bleaching powder ---------1g/L
2.1.16Influencing factors or controlling parameters of dyeing:
1. Salt.
2. Soda ash.
3. Time.
4. Temperature.
5. pH.
6. Wetting agent.
7. Sequestering agent.
8. Anti-creasing agent
9. Leveling agent
All of these above are important in dyeing but we have worked with time, temperature,
and pH.
2.1.17Dyeing problem with the type reactive dyes and its prevention:
1. Result of piebald dyeing
Prevention:
- Dye selection truly and precisely
- Apply of dyeing standard suggested
- Apply of auxiliaries suggested
2. Repetition colour, unequal dyeing results
Prevention
- Dye selection truly and precisely.
- Correct liquor ratio
- Control temperature and time process
3.Problem of crease-mark
- Apply anti-crease agent mark
- Heavy cloth which is dyed accommodate with machine capacities suggested.
“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with
Reactive Dye.”
©Daffodil International University 19
Soda Ash
2.2.1 Soda Ash:
Sodium carbonate (also known as washing soda ash, soda ashash and soda ash crystals),
Na2CO3, is a sodium salt of carbonic acid (soluble in water). It most commonly occurs as
a crystalline heptahydrate, which readily effloresces to form a white powder, the monohydrate.
Pure sodium carbonate is a white, odorless powder that absorbs moisture from the air, has an
alkaline taste, and forms a strongly alkaline water solution. Sodium carbonate is domestically
well known for its everyday use as a water softener. It can be extracted from the ashes of many
plants growing in sodium-rich soils. Vegetation from salt-bearing soils (the Middle East), kelp
(Scotland), and seaweed (Spain) was noticeably different from ashes obtained from timber (used
to create "potash" potassium carbonate) that it became known as "soda ashash " because of the
sodium content.[3]
It is synthetically produced in large quantities from salt (sodium chloride)
and limestone by a method known as the Solvay process.
Soda ashash is the active ingredient in washing soda ash. The chemical name for it is sodium
carbonate, chemical formula Na2CO3. It is more basic, that is, less acidic, than sodium
bicarbonate (baking soda ash), whose chemical formula is NaHCO3. The purpose of sodium
carbonate is simply to increase pH.
2.2.2 Types of Soda ashAsh:
Soda ashash is a white, odorless powder. It is stable, not flammable, explosive or toxic. Three
primary grades are produced:
Dense Soda ashAsh: Dense soda ashash, an anhydrous substance, is an important industrial
chemical and is used in the manufacture of many products.
Washing Soda ash: Washing soda ash is a hydrous substance made by combining light soda
ashash with additional water molecules. It is used most often to improve the cleaning properties
of detergents and soaps.
Light Soda ashAsh: Light Soda ashAsh is used as a buffering/pH regulator in many industrial
processes.
Soda ashAsh Direct primarily stocks the dense grade of soda ashash, but can supply other grades
as needed, as well as sodium bicarbonate.
“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with
Reactive Dye.”
©Daffodil International University 20
2.2.3 Hydration:
Some forms of soda ashash (e.g. that labeled as 'washing soda ash') contain more water
molecules than others, which makes them weigh more and be larger for a given number of
sodium carbonate molecules - this means that you need to measure out a larger quantity of the
hydrated form in order to get the same results. If you buy sodium carbonate without the extra
water molecules, then store it for several years in humid conditions, it will absorb some water
and appear to lose strength, when in fact it has merely 'bulked up' and needs to be used in larger
volumes.
The type of sodium carbonate used in washing soda ash is a decahydrate, so you need to use a lot
more washing soda ash than you would anhydrous soda ashash, perhaps three times as much -
assuming that you are able to find pure unadulterated washing soda ash that is suitable for use in
dyeing. (In theory, we should use 2.7 times as much washing soda ash as a substitute for soda
ashash, if measuring by weight, or 4.6 times as much if measuring by volume.)
2.2.4 Alternative ofsoda ashash:
In dyeing cotton or any other cellulose fiber, such as linen, rayon, tencel, hemp, etc., the
requirement is simply to increase the pH (alkalinity) of the reaction to somewhere around 10.5 to
11; the exact ideal pH depends on the fiber being used and the individual dye color.
Caustic chemicals. Other chemicals that can, in theory, be used to reach this ideal pH include
NaOH (sodium hydroxide, or lye) and TSP (trisodium phosphate, sold as a heavy duty cleaner at
hardware stores). Pure NaOH is very caustic and quite dangerous for those not trained as
chemists.
Sodium silicate. Fabric that has been painted with Procion MX or similar dyes, and the dye
allowed to dry, can be treated with a liquid sodium silicate solution, also known as water glass.
This product is sold under the name of PRO Fix LHF and PRO QuickFix by PRO Chemical &
Dye, as Drimafix by Batik Oetoro, as Tobafix by Tobasign Dyes, and as AfterFix by Dharma
Trading Company. Sodium silicate will substitute nicely for the soda ashash step above.
Sodium bicarbonate. Baking soda ash, or sodium bicarbonate, decomposes at sufficiently high
temperatures to form sodium carbonate, so it is an ideal substitute for dyes that will be fixed by
extensive steaming or baking. It should not be used for room-temperature dyeing. Sodium
bicarbonate at room temperature will produce a pH of only around 8, too low for ideal use on
cotton and other cellulose fibers, though it is capable of producing some reaction.
“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with
Reactive Dye.”
©Daffodil International University 21
2.2.5Material Used To Produce Soda Ash:
Soda ash is an essential raw material used in many applications such as the manufacture
of glass, detergents and soaps, chemicals and many other industrial processes
Soda Ash , Dense/Light
Application: Mainly used in chemical industry, glass-manufacturing, metallurgy, paper-
manufacturing, textile, dyeing, synthetic detergent, soap, daily-use Chemical-industry, daily-use
glass industry, washing powder, petrol chemical industry etc.
Storage: Soda ash should be stored under cover in a cool, dry place.
The specification:
SODA ASH ASH LIGHT
ITEM SPECIFICATION
Na2CO3 99.2%MIN
CHLORIDE 0.70%MAX
IRON CONTENT 0.004%MAX
WATER INSOLUBLE MATTER 0.08%MAX
LOSS ON IGNITON 0.8%MAX
SODA ASH ASH DENSE
ITEM SPECIFICATION
Na2CO3 99.2%MIN
CHLORIDE CONTENT 0.70%MAX
IRON CONTENT 0.004%MAX
WATER INSOLUBLE MATTER 0.08%MAX
BULK DENSITY(g/ml) 0.9%MAX
FINENESS (180um residue on sieve) 70.0%MIN
.
“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with
Reactive Dye.”
©Daffodil International University 22
2.2.6General chemical properties of soda ashash:
Chemical Name Sodium Carbonate
Molecular Weight 105.989
Melting Point 851o
C
1564o
F
Specific Gravity 20o
/4o
C 2.533
Specific Heat 25o
C 0.249 cal/gm/o
C
77o
F 0.249 Btu/lb/o
C
45o
C 0.256 cal/gm/o
C
Heat of Fusion 854o
C 75.5 cal/gm
135.9 Btu/lb
Heat of Formation 25o
C -2550 cal/gm
-4590 Btu/lb
Heat of Hydration Monohydrate, Na2CO3 • H2O 30.0 cal/gm Na2CO3
54.0 Btu/lb Na2CO3
Heptahydrate, Na2CO3 • 7H2O 156.4 cal/gm Na2CO3
281.5 Btu/lb Na2CO3
Decahydrate, Na2CO3 • 10H2O 208.8 cal/gm Na2CO3
375.8 Btu/lb Na2CO3
Solubility 0o
C 7 gms Na2CO3 in 100 gms H2O
100o
C 44.7 gms Na2CO3 in 100 gms H2O
35.37o
C (max.) 49.5 gms Na2CO3 in 100 gms H2O
Alkali equivalent 100 % Na2CO3 = 58.48 % Na2O
Acid equivalent 1 lb Na2CO3 = 0.6881 lbHCl
“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with
Reactive Dye.”
©Daffodil International University 23
Knitting
2.3.1 Basic About knitting:
We know that fabrics are produced from a set of warp or weft yarn. Weaving and knitting is
different for the interlacing techniques of yarn. In weaving it needs warp and weft yarn for
produce woven fabric but in knitting, fabrics are produced from a series of yarn in warp or weft
directions. Knitting techniques can be defined as follow.
The processes in which fabrics are produced by set of connect loops from a series of yarns in
warp or weft direction is defined as knitting. Different knitting machines are use to perform this
techniques. Mainly two types of knitted fabrics are produced. They are as follow:
Warp knitted fabrics: In a warp knitted structure, each loop in the horizontal direction is made
from different thread and the number of thread used to produce such a fabric is at least equal to
the numbers of loops in horizontal row.
Weft knitted fabrics: A horizontal row of loops can be made using one thread runs in horizontal
direction. The fabric structure is different from one from another. Weft knitted fabrics are widely
use.
In our daily life, we use different knitted fabrics. Depending on the fabrics design knitted fabrics
can be as follow:
 Single Jersey
1. Plain Single Jersey
2. Single Jersey with Lycra
3. Single Lacoste
4. Double Lacoste
5. Single Pique
6. Double Pique
7. Polo Pique
8. French Terry
“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with
Reactive Dye.”
©Daffodil International University 24
9. Terry with Lycra
10. Fleece
11. Fleece with Lycra
 Double Jersey
 Rib Fabric
1. 1×1 Rib
2. 2×1 Rib
3. 2×2 Rib
4. Lycra Rib
5. Flat Back Rib
 Interlock Fabric
1. Plain Interlock
2. Drop Needle Interlock
3. Interlock with Lycra
 Collar and Cuff
1. Plain Collar or Solid Collar
2. Shaving Collar
3. Jacquard Collar
4. Tipping Collar
5. Race Collar
6. Stripe Collar
Also different types of decorative design are developed by knitting machine. In modern times
auto stripe knitting machine use to produce multi color stripe fabrics, which is not possible to
produce by normal knitting machine.
In above I have written about Lycra. Lycra use for special purpose. Use of Lycra depends on
buyer requirement. It increases the elastic properties of fabrics.
Different knitted fabrics have different properties. Use of knitted fabrics depends on the
atmospheric condition of the country. It also depends on the choice of one. 2
“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with
Reactive Dye.”
©Daffodil International University 25
Structure of knitted fabrics
Knitted fabrics are divided into two basic types: warp-knit fabrics such as tricot and weft-knit
fabrics such as a hand-knit sweater. Weft-knit items have the drawback that they run when cut.
Warp-knit fabrics are often used in lingerie.
 knits can shrink but can also extend if a rib construction.
 knits have nap.
 ribs/wales versus courses.
 generally more elasticity along the course than along the wale.
Knitting stitches
Over the long history of knitting across the world, hundreds of different knitting stitches have
been created.
The basic building blocks of all hand knitting are the following stitches: knit, purl, cast on, cast
off (also known as bind off), increase and decrease stitches. Use of a combination of these
methods can provide a vast number of different textures to knitted fabrics.
In order to save space in knitting patterns, the names of stitches are normally abbreviated.
Composition of knitted fabrics
The most common fibres used for knitted fabrics are cotton & viscose with or without elastane,
these tend to be single jersey construction and are used for most t-shirt style tops.
“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with
Reactive Dye.”
©Daffodil International University 26
Rubbing Fastness
2.4.1 Rubbing Fastness:
A fastness is a place, such as a castle, which is considered safe because it is difficult to reach or
easy to defend against attack. This test is designed to determine the degree of color which may
be transferred from the surface of a colored fabric to a specify test cloth for rubbing (which could
be dry and Wet).
There are two test methods for rubbing fastness.
1.ISO-105-X12
2.AATCC-08
In ISO-105-X12 the wet pickup of the rubbing cloth is 100% .While in AATCC-08 the wet
Pickup of the rubbing cloth is 65%.We check rubbing by Dry and Wet methods. In wet rubbing
we wet the rubbing cloth according to test method and give rating by comparing the Staining
with the gray scale.
Similarly for dry rubbing we check the rubbing with dry rubbing cloth and compare the staining
With gray scale for ratings.Color Fastness to rubbing is a main test which is always required for
every colored fabric either it is Printed or dyed.
If the color fastness to rubbing is good then its other properties like Washing fastness and
durability etc improves automatically because the rubbing is a method to check the fixation of
the color on the fabric. So if the fixation is good its washing properties will be good.
“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with
Reactive Dye.”
©Daffodil International University 27
Rubbing Fastness depends on:
 Nature of the Color
 Depth of the Shade
Construction of the FabricNature of the color Each color either it is pigment
,Reactive ,Disperse or direct has its own fastness properties to rubbing. There are some colors
like black, Red ,Burgundy ,Navy blue which have poor Color fastness properties because of their
chemical structure.
Like Black color is a carbon base color and the particle size of carbon is large than the other
colors that's why its rubbing properties are poor. Similarly red and blue are in the same case. So
to improve the color fastness we add more binder to improve the fastness properties of these
colors. It doesn't mean that we can not achieve the best results with these colors. The required
results can achieve but production cost will be increase. On the other hand the construction of the
fabric also effects the fastness properties.
If the rubbing fastness on 100.80/40.40 is 3 on the gray scale it will be 2-3 on 52.52/22.22 with
the same printing parameters. So always keep in mind these effects during finalize the required
parameters with your customer .
Always Check
 Quality construction
 Color
 Depth of the Color
 End Use of the product
“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with
Reactive Dye.”
©Daffodil International University 28
2.4.2 Color fastness to Rubbing/crocking Test Procedure:
Preparation of the samples
• the sample has to be tested in the delivered condition; don’t wash and/or tumble it before
testing
• the fabric/sample has to be air conditioned at least 8 hours by standard climate (20°C /
65% relative humidity)
• the air conditioned specimen has to be rubbed with the dry and wet cotton rubbing cloth in
warp, weft or diagonal direction on face side. The test direction has to be noted in the test report.
• use always cotton test material from James Heal (Cotton Rubbing cloth ISO 105 F09)
• for a correct test result the rubbing point on cotton must show an even staining with an
exact circle.
Apparatus – Crock meter
“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with
Reactive Dye.”
©Daffodil International University 29
“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with
Reactive Dye.”
©Daffodil International University 30
Colorfastness to Rubbing ISO 105-X12 process
The rubbing finger with the rubbing cloth is moved to and from along a 10 cm track on the red
colored testspecimen, exerting a downward force of 9 Newton.
The non colored rubbing cloth is wetted with water for performing the wet
rubbing test.
“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with
Reactive Dye.”
©Daffodil International University 31
The trace of the wet rubbing cloth can be seen during performance of the wet rubbing test.
2.4.3 Assessment of the specimens
• the assessment has to be done independently of 2 persons; take the average as result
• the assessment (E) has to be done with
• 1) defined grey scale
• 2) grey frame in same grey colour as background
• 3) white paper as background or according to the test method one or more original multifibre to
assure no transparent effect coming out of the background
• under defined light D65 with defined angle of 45°
“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with
Reactive Dye.”
©Daffodil International University 32
For assessment of color staining, using the “Grey Scale”, this light box is used in a darkened
room.
Assessment of color staining of the rubbing cloth after wet rubbing. The scale with fastness
grades 1 to 3 of the nine step scale is applied.
“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with
Reactive Dye.”
©Daffodil International University 33
CHAPTER-3:
SIGNIFICANCE & SCOPE OF THE STUDY
“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with
Reactive Dye.”
©Daffodil International University 34
3.1. Significance:
By this project we have evaluated that “Effect Of Salt AndSoda ash Concentration In Dyeing
Of Single Jersey Cotton Fabric”. We have taken knit fabric for maintaining same dyeing recipe
with reactive dye. It is to be hope that by the end this thesis paper the reader will have a better
idea rubbingand washing fastness properties on knit fabric. Dyeing sector in our country has a
bright future due to wide spread market of textile area. It is directly related to the beauty of
fabric. It is take in fashion, art of the fabric. We need throughout knowledge on dyeing process
and also of the fashion going around the world. For that quality parameter of dyed fabric should
asses in different stage of textile.
3.2. Scope of the study:
Bangladesh is a developing country. And a developing country largely depends on foreign
currency. Nearly 75%-80% of foreign currency is earned by exporting garments & textile.
Dyeing sector plays a vital role. At present a large number of qualities depend on the fastness
properties of this garments & textile. As well as this study helps to improving the fastness
properties. But one thing is that in our country there have lot of differences between practical job
life and general education life. It could be a problem during the time of service. So we have tried
ourselves to establish a combination between our general education life & practical life with
various article, documents & calculation. We hope this thesis will give a way to learn improving
the fastness properties which will help in the future to lead our textile & garments sector.
 In this thesis in the 1st
chapter we discuss about the objective of this thesis.
 In the 2nd
chapter we discuss about the reactive dyes, knit fabric and fastness properties.
 In the 3rd
chapter we discuss about significance & scope of this study.
 In the 4th
chapter we discuss about the research & methodology of this thesis.
 In the 5th
chapter we discuss about analysis & findings of this thesis.
 And in the 6th
chapter we discuss about the overview of the thesis as conclusion.
“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with
Reactive Dye.”
©Daffodil International University 35
CHAPTER-4:
RESEARCH METHODOLOGY
“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with
Reactive Dye.”
©Daffodil International University 36
4.1. Flow chart of our Research:
Sample collection
↓
Sample measurement (5gm)
↓
Scouring and bleaching
↓
Dyeing Recipe Calculation
↓
Stock solution preparation
↓
Dyeing
↓
Drying
↓
Rubbing with dry and wet condition and wash fastness test
↓
Sample assessment
“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with
Reactive Dye.”
©Daffodil International University 37
4.2.Sample Collection:
For this research we have taken 100% cottonknit fabric from Novel Hurricane Knit Garments
Ltd for maintaining same dyeing recipe with reactive dye. After that we have done the dyeing
process including scouring, bleaching & finishing process. And then we have tested the rubbing
fastness properties of knit fabrics.
4.2.1. Recipe for the dyeing process of the knit fabric is given below:
Scouring & Bleaching Recipe:
 Sequestering agent: 0.5gm/l
 Detergent: 1gm/l
 Wetting agent:1gm/l
 Stabilizer: 0.5gm/l
 H2O2: 2.5gm/l
 Caustic Soda: 2gm/l
Dyeing Recipe:
 Leveling Agent: 1gm/l
 Reactive Yellow-.214% (Stock solution=0.5%)
 Reactive Red-.12% (Stock solution=0.5%)
 Reactive Blue-1.76%(Stock solution=1%)
 Glauber Salt:50/55/6070/80gm/l (Stock solution=25%)
 Soda Ash:10/12.5/15/20gm/l (Stock solution=25%)
 For each bath we dyed 1 sample with salt and soda ashconcentration of salt/soda ash
60/12.5 gm/l,60/10 gm/l,50/15 gm/l,60/20 gm/l ,70/15 gm/l ,80/20 gm/l and other
chemicals and dyes are same for each bath.
 M:L=1:8
After completing the Scouring, Bleaching and dying process then we completed the after
treatment process. In the dyeing process we are used M:L: 1:8 liquor ratio.
For the all sample we are used this dyeing recipe. After completing this dyeing process then we
tested the fastness properties of this samples. These are given below:
“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with
Reactive Dye.”
©Daffodil International University 38
4.2.2. Rubbing fastness test:
Rubbing fastness is the resistance to fading of dyed textiles when rubbed against a rough surface.
The fastness to crocking or rubbing is widely used on a variety of fabric to evaluate the transfer
of surface dye from the test fabric when it is applied surface friction or rubbed against a rough
surface.
Two types of rubbing test are done-
 Dry
 Wet
Apparatus:
 Crock meter
 Grey scale staining
 Stop Watch
 Color Matching Cabinet.

Size of Fabric:
You will need to have 15 Cm × 5 Cm pieces of textile fabric sample (one warp direction/ wale
direction and other weft/ course direction).
Principle:
This test is designed to determine the degree of color which may be transferred from the surface
of a colored fabric to a specify test cloth for rubbing (which could be dry and Wet).
This test is undertaken on a crock meter, whereby the fabric specimen is subjected to rubbing
with a sample of standard undyed cotton fabric in order to check for color transfer.


Test Procedure of Color Fastness to Rubbing:
Lock the testspecimen (textile sample) onto the base of the crock meter.
Using the spinal clip, set 5 Cm × 5Cm of the white cotton fabric to the finger of the crock meter.
Lower the covered finger on the test sample.
Turn hand crank at the rate of the one turn per second.
Remove the white rubbing test cloth and evaluate with grey scale.



“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with
Reactive Dye.”
©Daffodil International University 39
Evaluation:
In this stage compare the contrast between the treated and untreated white rubbing cloth with grey
scale and rated 1 to 5.
4.3.1. Wash fastness test:
Required Apparatus:
 SDC recommended multi-fiber fabric or recommended by ISO
 Grey scale for color changing
 Grey scale for staining
 Thermometer
 Dryer
 Color matching cabinet
 Steel ball
 Sewing machine
Wash Fastness Test
It color fastness testing system by which we can find out the wash fastness grade of a fabric.
Here grey is and multifibe is used for the determination of staining and color change grade.
Adjacent Multifibre
Grey scale:
“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with
Reactive Dye.”
©Daffodil International University 40
Recipe:
Test soap : 5 g/l (ECE-4g/l+ Sodium perbret 1g/l)
Washing Temperature : 600
C
Washing Time : 30 Min
M:L : 1:50
Steel ball : 25
PH : 10.5
4.3.2. Procedure:
The dyed fabric to be tested was cut into a (4cm X 10cm) size and then sewn with Multifibre
fabric of same size. Then the specimen was washed with ISO recommended detergent and the
given recipe was used.
After washing , the specimen was rinsed well with cold water and then dried Finally the dyed
fabric before and after wash was assessed with standard "Grey Scale " and grade for the
alternation of the color was obtained. The staining of color in the multifibre fabrics was also
evaluated using a different "Grey Scale "
4.3.3. Grade for Wash Fastness:
Fastness grade Fastness Quality Staining
Grade-1 Very poor Deep staining
Grade-2 Poor Significant staining
Grade-3 Fair Moderate staining
Grade-4 Good Very slight staining
Grade-5 Excellent No Staining
Tables-3: Fastness grade with details
“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with
Reactive Dye.”
©Daffodil International University 41
ASSESSMENT:
 Change in color
-The exposed part is compared with original dyed fabric with the help of grey-scale.
 Staining
-The undyed fabric used for covering is compared with the original undyed fabric by
grey-scale for staining.
“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with
Reactive Dye.”
©Daffodil International University 42
4.4. SAMPLE ATTACHMENT
A. Attachment of Samples Dyed with Reactive Dye
Attached
Samples
(Dyeing with 60
g/l Salt & 10g/l
Soda ash)
Attached
Samples
(Dyeing with 60
g/l Salt & 12.5
g/l Soda ash)
Attached
Samples
(Dyeing with 50
g/l Salt & 15g/l
Soda ash)
Attached
Samples
(Dyeing with 55
g/l Salt & 15g/l
Soda ash)
Attached
Samples
(Dyeing with
60 g/l Salt &
20 g/l Soda
ash)
Attached
Samples
(Dyeing with
70 g/l Salt &
15 g/l Soda
ash)
Sample no.
01
Sample no.
02
Sample no.
03
Sample no.
04
Sample no.
05
Sample no.
06
“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with
Reactive Dye.”
©Daffodil International University 43
B. Attachment of Color Fastness to washing Test Samples
Attached
Samples
(Dyeing with 60
g/l Salt & 10g/l
Soda ash)
Attached
Samples
(Dyeing with 60
g/l Salt & 12.5
g/l Soda ash)
Attached
Samples
(Dyeing with 50
g/l Salt & 15g/l
Soda ash)
Attached
Samples
(Dyeing with 55
g/l Salt & 15g/l
Soda ash)
Attached
Samples
(Dyeing with
60 g/l Salt & 20
g/l Soda ash)
Attached
Samples
(Dyeing with
70 g/l Salt &
15 g/l Soda
ash)
Sample no.
01
Sample no.
02
Sample no.
03
Sample no.
04
Sample no.
05
Sample no.
06
“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with
Reactive Dye.”
©Daffodil International University 44
C. Attachment of Rubbing Fastness Test Samples
Attached
Samples
(Dyeing with 60
g/l Salt & 10g/l
Soda ash)
Attached
Samples
(Dyeing with 60
g/l Salt & 12.5
g/l Soda ash)
Attached
Samples
(Dyeing with 50
g/l Salt & 15g/l
Soda ash)
Attached
Samples
(Dyeing with 55
g/l Salt & 15g/l
Soda ash)
Attached
Samples
(Dyeing with
60 g/l Salt & 20
g/l Soda ash)
Attached
Samples
(Dyeing with
70 g/l Salt &
15 g/l Soda
ash)
Sample no.
01
Sample no.
02
Sample no.
03
Sample no.
04
Sample no.
05
Sample no.
06
“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with
Reactive Dye.”
©Daffodil International University 45
CHAPTER-5:
ANALYSIS & FINDINGS
“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with
Reactive Dye.”
©Daffodil International University 46
5.1. Data Analysis and Findings:
5.1.1. Data Analysis for Salt variation:
Observation of Shade at various concentration of Salt:
Data Table No:01
Sample
no.
Salt Soda ash Shade% Shade check
(Light source-D65)
01 50 15 (Yellow-0.214%+Red-
0.12% +Blue-1.76%
=2.94%)
Lighter than 01 and 02
02 55 15 Lighter than 03,darker than 01
03 70 15 Darker than 01 and 02
From data table-1 we see that when concentration of salt is increased(sample -03) the
shadebecome darker and when decreased (sample-01) the shade become lighter and when salt is
decreased a little the shade become darker than-01 and lighter than 03
Observation of Rubbing fastness at various salt concentration:
Data Table No:02
Sample
no.
Salt Soda ash Shade% Rubbing Test
Dry Wet
01 50 15 (Yellow-0.214%+Red-
0.12% +Blue-1.76%
=2.94%)
4-5 2-3
02 55 15 4-5 3
03 70 15 4 2
From data table-02 we see that sample no.02 give better rubbing fastness properties than sample
01 and 03.
“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with
Reactive Dye.”
©Daffodil International University 47
Observation of Color fastness to washing at various salt concentration:
Data Table No:03
Sample no. Salt Soda ash Shade% Color fastness to washing
(BS EN ISO-105-E01-1996)
01 50 15 (Yellow-0.214%+Red-
0.12% +Blue-1.76%
=2.94%)
4-5
02 55 15 4-5
03 70 15 2
From data table -03 we can see that wash fastness property of sample 03 is poor.But sample 01
and 02 give good fastness properties.
5.1.2. Data Analysis for Soda variation:
Observation of Shade at various soda ash concentration:
Data Table No:01
Sample
no.
Salt Soda ash Shade% Shade check
(Light source-D65)
04 60 10 (Yellow-0.214%+Red-
0.12% +Blue-1.76%
=2.94%)
Lighter than 1 and 2
05 60 12.5 Lighter than 03,darker than 01
06 60 20 Darker than 1 and 2
From data table-1 we see that when concentration of soda is increased (sample -06) the
shadebecome darker and when decreased (sample-04) the shade become lighter and and when
decreased (sample-01) the shade become lighter and when salt is decreased a little the shade
become darker than-01 and lighter than 03.
“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with
Reactive Dye.”
©Daffodil International University 48
Observation of Rubbing fastness at various soda concentration:
Data Table No:02
Sample
no.
Salt Soda ash Shade% Rubbing Test
Dry Wet
04 60 10 (Yellow-0.214%+Red-
0.12% +Blue-1.76%
=2.94%)
4-5 2-3
05 60 12.5 4-5 2-3
06 60 20 4 2
From data table 02 we can see that rubbing fastness property of sample 06 is better than sample
04 and 05.
Observation of Color fastness to washing at various soda concentration:
Data Table No:03
Sample
no
Salt Soda ash Shade% Color fastness to washing
(BS EN ISO-105-E01-1996)
04 60 10 (Yellow-0.214%+Red-
0.12% +Blue-1.76%
=2.94%)
4-5
05 60 12.5 4
06 60 20 4-5
From data table-03 we see that color fastness to washing properties of sample 04 and 06 are
better than sample 05
Findings:
 Every baththe concentrationof saltwas 50/55/60/60/60/70/80 gm/l.
 And everybath Soda ash concentration was 10/12.5/15/15/15/20/20gm/l.
So we can easily find that, due to increase or decrease of salt and soda ash concentration effect
on the dye fixation and exhaustion and its also effect on fastness properties of fabric.
“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with
Reactive Dye.”
©Daffodil International University 49
CHAPTER-6:
CONCLUSION
“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with
Reactive Dye.”
©Daffodil International University 50
Study is occurring in this project about the cotton, reactive dye and different dyed cotton knitted
samples colorfastness properties. Reactive dye works in the alkali medium. Different salt &
alkali show different effect on the dyed goods. For this reason we tried to compare the fastness
properties by using different salt &soda ash concentration in same dyeing recipe. Then we tried
to find out the best one by using various types of testing method like- Rubbing fastness test,
Wash fastness test. After getting all information we analysis the all data and make a decision
that, how fastness properties are changed during reactive dyeing with cotton with various salt
&soda ash concentration.
So, finally completing the whole research on ,“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in
dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” We have reached at end with the
result-
 According to treatment with various concentration of salt where soda concentration was
constant sample no.02 shown the best result with color fastness to wash which grade is 4-
5 and rubbing fastness grade for dry is 4-5 and grade for wet is 3.
 According to treatment with various concentration of soda where salt concentration was
constant sample no.06 shown the best result with color fastness to wash which grade is 4-
5 and rubbing fastness grade for dry is 4 and grade for wet is 2.
So finally we can say that after completing the research we have found the end of the project
with the result of 100% cotton S/J knit fabric where sample no 02 and 06 are showing good
colorfastness and rubbing fastness properties with the treatment of 55 gm/l salt and 15 gm/l soda
(sample-02) and 60 gm/l salt and 20 gm/l soda (sample-06)
“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with
Reactive Dye.”
©Daffodil International University 51
REFERENCES:
Internet link:
 http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/01/dyeing-of-cotton-fabric-with-
reactive.html#ixzz2sQMwITlF
 http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/01/why-so-called-reactive-dye-history-
of.html#ixzz2wu6OVqQV
 http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2013/10/reactive-dyestuff-dyeing-method-
of.html#ixzz2wiRGYUdJ
 http://textilebe-dyeing.blogspot.com/2011/01/effect-of-ph-on-cotton-dyeing-with.html
 http://textilefashionstudy.com/knitting-technology-definition-and-types-of-knitted-
fabrics-produced-in-knitting-mills/
 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knitting
 http://garmentstech.com/colour-fastness-to-rubbingcrocking-test-procedure/
 http://www.ansac.com/products/about-soda ash-ash/
 http://thxchem.en.alibaba.com/product/846752559-218601321/uses_of_soda
ash_ash_for_textile_industry.html
 http://www.pburch.net/dyeing/FAQ/soda ashash.shtml
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Thesis

  • 1. “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” ©Daffodil International University i FACULTY of ENGNIEERING DEPARTMENT of TEXTILE ENGINEERING Effect of Salt and Soda Ash Concentration in Dyeing of Single Jersey Cotton Fabric with Reactive Dye Course code:TE-4214 Course title:Project(Thesis) Submitted by: Shourav Das ID: 133-23-3633 Avijit Biswas ID: 133-23-3649 Supervised by Prof. Dr. S. M. Mahbub-ul-HaqueMajumder Pro-Vice Chancellor Daffodil International University A thesis in partial fulfillment of the requirement for the Degree of Bachelor of Science in Textile Engineering. Advance in Wet Processing Technology 12th July 2017
  • 2. “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” ©Daffodil International University ii Letter of Approval August 12, 2017 To The Head Department of Textile Engineering Daffodil International University 102 Sukrabad,Mirpur Road, Dhaka 1207 Subject: Approval of final year project report. Dear Sir, I am writing to let you know that this project report titled as “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dyes.” has been completed for final evaluation. The whole report is prepared based on proper investigation and understanding though critical analysis of empirical data with required belongings. The students were directly involved in their project activities and the report becomes vital to spark off many valuable information for the readers. Therefore, it will highly be appreciated if you kindly accept this project report and consider it for final evaluation. Yours Sincerely, Prof. Dr. S. M. Mahbub-ul-HaqueMajumder Pro-Vice Chancellor Daffodil International University
  • 3. “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” ©Daffodil International University iii DECLARATION We hereby declare that the work which is being presented in this thesis entitled, “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye” is original work of us, has not been presented for a degree of any other university and all the resource of materials uses for this thesis have been duly acknowledged. _______________________ _________________ Shourav Das Date _______________________ _________________ Avijit Biswas Date This is to certify that the above declaration made by the candidates is correct to the best of my knowledge. _______________________ _________________ Prof. Dr. S. M. Mahbub-ul-HaqueMajumder Date Pro-Vice Chancellor Supervisor
  • 4. “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” ©Daffodil International University iv ACKNOWLEDGEMENT Above all, we praise the almighty God who gave us His enabling grace to successfully complete this research work. With sincerity, we extend my warm and deep appreciation and gratitude to our supervisor, Prof. Dr. S. M. Mahbub-ul-HaqueMajumder forhis unreserved guidance and support to come up with this research work. Being working with him, we have not only earned valuable knowledge but were also inspired by his innovativeness which helped to enrich my experience to a greater extent. His ideas and way of working was truly remarkable. we believe that this research could not be finished if he did not help me continuously. We are thankful to Prof. Dr. Md. MahbubulHaque, Head of the Textile Engineering Department of Textile Engineering, Daffodil International University and Tanvir Ahmed Chowdhury, Assistant Professor Department of Textile Engineering, Daffodil International University for their kind help and advice. We would also like to thank all who responded to our questionnaires and interviews, which helped us in coming up with this research. We are grateful to our all colleagues for their encouragement for this research work. Finally, we express our sincere gratitude to our father, mother, brother and sister for their continuous support, ideas and love during our studies. -The Author
  • 5. “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” ©Daffodil International University v Dedicated To Our Respected Parents
  • 6. “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” ©Daffodil International University vi ABSTRACT This study makes an assessment onthe effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dyes. At the beginning, a brief introduction is given with suitable literature review. During research, we have applied four types of recipe with changing salt &soda ash concentration. We dyed 6 samples with Reactive dyes with concentration of salt &soda ash. Other chemicals and dyes are same for each recipe. Indyeing cotton Knitted fabric, reactive dyes are mostly used. Soda ash changes the pH of the fiber- reactive dye and cellulose fiber so that the dye reacts with the fiber, making a permanent connection that holds the dye to the fiber. Salt decreases solubility of dyes in liquor and increases affinity between dyes and fiber under moist condition. For this study, we collected samples of 100% cotton single jersey knit fabric. Firstly, we dyed those samples by reactive dyes. After that we tested the rubbing fastness and wash fastness of those samples. Then we collected data from those tests and analyzed them. After analyzed we got results which indicate that salt and soda ash concentration has impact in dyeing dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.
  • 7. “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” ©Daffodil International University vii INDEX SL. No. Topic Name Page No. CONTENTS PAGE LETTER OF APPROVAL ii DECLARATION iii ACKNOWLEDGEMENT iv DEDICATION v ABSTRACT vi INDEX vii CHAPTER-1: INTRODUCTION 1.1 Research Background 02 1.2 Objectives: 02 CHAPTER-2: LITERATURE REVIEW 2.1 Theory 04 2.1.1 Reactive dye 04 2.1.2 Chemical structure of reactive dyes 05 2.1.3 History 05 2.1.4 Classification of reactive dyes 07 2.1.5 Properties of reactive dye 07 2.1.6 Dyeing mechanism of reactive dye 07 2.1.7 Application method 08 2.1.8 Why it is called Reactive Dye 09 2.1.9 Reason of Popularity of Reactive dye 09
  • 8. “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” ©Daffodil International University viii 2.1.10 Importance of Reactive Group Present in Reactive Dye 09 2.1.11 Name of Same Reactive Dyes with company and origin 11 2.1.12 Process Flow Chart Of Knit Fabric Dyeing With Reactive Dyes 11 2.1.13 Which Fibers can be dyed with Reactive Dye 16 2.1.14 Hydrolysis of reactive dye 17 2.1.15 Stripping of reactive dye 17 2.1.16 Influencing factors or controlling parameters of dyeing 18 2.1.17 Dyeing problem with the type reactive dyes and its prevention 18 Soda Ash 2.2.1 Soda Ash 19 2.2.2 Types of Soda Ash 19 2.2.3 Hydration 20 2.2.4 Alternative of soda ash 20 2.2.5 Material Used To Produce Soda Ash 21 2.2.6 General chemical properties of soda ash 22 Knitting 2.3.1 Basic About knitting 23 Rubbing Fastness 2.4.1 Rubbing Fastness 26
  • 9. “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” ©Daffodil International University ix 2.4.2 Colour fastness to Rubbing/crocking Test Procedure 28 2.4.3 Assessment of the specimen 31 CHAPTER-3: SIGNIFICANCE & SCOPE OF THE STUDY 3.1. Significance 34 3.2. Scope of the study 34 CHAPTER-4: RESEARCH METHODOLOGY 4.1. Flow chart of our Research 36 4.2. Sample Collection 37 4.2.1. Recipe for the dyeing process of the knit fabric is given below 37 4.2.2. Rubbing fastness test 38 4.3.1. Wash fastness test 39 4.3.2. Procedure 40 4.3.3. Grade for Wash Fastness 40 4.4. Sample Attachment 42 CHAPTER-5: ANALYSIS & FINDINGS 5.1.1. Data Analysis for Salt variation 46 5.1.2. Data Analysis for Soda variation 47 CHAPTER-6: CONCLUSION REFERENCES 51
  • 10. “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” ©Daffodil International University 1 CHAPTER-1: INTRODUCTION
  • 11. “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” ©Daffodil International University 2 For dyeing cotton & other cellulose fiber reactive dyes are mostly used. These dyes gained such popularity because of if s good fastness, lower cost, simple dyeing method, good reproducibility and etc. When we dye a cotton fabric we need choose a dye which has good fastness properties with good shade. For all those reason reactive is widely used in the Textile industries. It is available and cheap. In our market different types of soda ash are available, but all soda ash does not show same properties for dyeing. As a result effect can be change or fastness properties can be change. In order to determined the color fastness of dyed or printed textiles or leather, this test is used for the determination of color fastness against rubbing, either under dry or under wet conditions. 1.1 Research Background:  For each bath we dyed 1 samples with different concentration of salt/soda ash60/12.5 gm/l,60/10 gm/l,50/15 gm/l,60/20 gm/l ,70/15 gm/l ,80/20 gm/l and other chemical and dyes are same for each bath.  Then for evaluating comparison we have done shade check, rubbing and color fastness test for finding variation of rubbing and wash fastness due to variation of salt and soda ash percentage.  Then we can make a decision about salt and soda ashthat which one concentration is best for the cotton knit fabric with reactive dye for rubbing and wash fastness. 1.2Objectives:  To know about the reactive dye.  To know about the knit fabric.  To know about the soda ash.  To know about the rubbing fastness test.  To know about wash fastness  To know about the salt/soda asheffect of rubbing and wash fastness of knit fabric.  To know about the process rubbing in wet and dry condition.  To know about the dyeing process of reactive dye  To know about the assessment of the specimens by gray scale.  To know about the working principle of crock meter  To know how to improve the rubbing and wash fastness of knit fabric.  To know about multi-fibers.
  • 12. “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” ©Daffodil International University 3 CHAPTER-2: LITERATURE REVIEW
  • 13. “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” ©Daffodil International University 4 Reactive dye 2.1 Theory: Dyes: That entire compound contains chromophore group and react with others material physically and chemically and when light reflects from that materials makes it colorfully is called dyes or dyestuff. Dyes are unsaturated complex compound. 2.1.1 Reactive Dye: A dye which is capable of reacting chemically with a substrate to from a covalent dye-substrate linkage is known as a reactive dye. Here the dye contains a reactive group and this reactive group makes covalent bond with the fibre polymer and act as an integral part of fibre .This covalent bond is formed between the dye molecules and the terminal –OH (hydroxyl) group cellulosic fibres or between the dye molecules and the terminal amino (-NH 2) group of polyamide fibres. The general formula of reactive dye can be written as following D-X-Y Here,  D=Dye part(color producing part).  X=Bridge.  Y=Functional group. D-X-Y+ Fibre = Fibre covalent bond. This is shown in reactions below- D-SO2-CH2-CH2-SO3Na+HO-Cell= D-SO2-CH2-CH2-O-Cell+NaHSO3 D-SO2-CH2-CH2-SO3Na+H2N-Wool= D-SO2-CH2-CH2-NH-Wool+ NaHSO3 Here,
  • 14. “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” ©Daffodil International University 5  D=dye part  Wool=Wool polymer.  Cell=Cellulose polymer 2.1.2 Chemical structure of reactive dyes: Chemical structure of reactive dyes Here, D= dye part or chromogen (color producing part) Dyes may be direct, acid, disperse, premetallised dye etc. B = bridging part. Bridging part may be –NH- group or –NR- group. G = reactive group bearing part. X= reactive group 2.1.3 History: The historical development of the synthetic dyestuffs dates back to 1856, when eighteen year old, W.H. Perkin discovered the synthesis of Mauveine, a basic dye, by accident, while he was engaged in the study of the action of potassium dichromate on aniline sulphate. He successfully converted the process he had developed in laboratory to a large-scale production, and demonstrated the application of the dye on silk. The intermediates nitrobenzene and aniline required in the production were also made commercially by him. Nitrobenzene was earlier prepared by Mansfield in 1847. On he occasion of 100 years celebration of synthetic dye manufacturing, two chemists of ICL Company (UK) named Sttephen&Rattee tried to manufacture new dye stuff. Thus they succeed
  • 15. “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” ©Daffodil International University 6 to invent a new dye in 1956 which was named Reactive dye. This was manufactured for dyeing cellulosic fibres. The 1st three Reactive dyes were Procion Yellow R, Procion Brilliant Red 2B &Procion Blue 3G. for this effort hey were awarded gold medal of the society of Dyes & Colorists for the year 1960. The dye to our country in mid 60's& became popular during 80's. Reactive dyes first appeared commercially in 1956, after their invention in1954 by Rattee&Stepheness at the Imperial chemical Industry (ICI). Dyestuffs Divion site in Bleckley, Manchetor. UK. . 2.1.4 Classification of reactive dyes: Reactive dyes may be classified in various ways as below: 1) On the basis of reactive group: a) Halogen (commonly chlorine) derivatives of nitrogen containing heterocycle, like 3 types- · Triazine group · Pyridimine group · Quinoxaline dyes Example: Triazine derivatives: procion, cibacron. Pyridimine derivatives: reactone Quinoxaline derivatives: levafix. b) Activated vinyl compound: · Vinyl sulphone · Vinyl acrylamide · Vinyl sulphonamide. Example: Vinyl sulphone: remazol Vinyl acrylamide: primazine Vinyl sulphonamide: levafix. 2) On the basis of reactivity: a) Lower reactive dye: Medium reactive dye: here pH is maintained 11-12 by using Na2CO3 in dye bath. b) Higher reactive dye: here pH is maintained 10-11 by using NaHCO3 in dye bath. 3) On the basis of dyeing temperature: a) Cold brand: These types of dyes contain reactive group of high reactivity. So dyeing can be done in lower temperature i.e. 320-600C. For example: PROCION M, LIVAFIX E.
  • 16. “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” ©Daffodil International University 7 b) Medium brand: This type of dyes contains reactive groups of moderate reactivity. So dyeing is done in higher temperature than that of cold brand dyes i.e. in between 600-710C temperatures. For example, Remazol, Livafix are medium brand dyes. c) Hot brand: This type of dye contains reactive groups of least reactivity. So high temperature is required for dyeing i.e. 720-930 C temperature is required for dyeing. For example PRICION H, CIBACRON are hot brand dyes. 2.1.5 Properties of reactive dye: 1) Reactive dyes are cationic dyes, which are used for dyeing cellulose, protein and polyamide fibres. 2) Reactive dyes are found in power, liquid and print paste form. 3) During dyeing the reactive group of this dye forms covalent bond with fibre polymer and becomes an integral parts of the fibre. 4) Reactive dyes are soluble in water. 5) They have very good light fastness with rating about 6. The dyes have very stable electron arrangement and can protect the degrading effect of ultra-violet ray. 6) Textile materials dyed with reactive dyes have very good wash fastness with rating Reactive dye gives brighter shades and has moderate rubbing fastness. 7) Dyeing method of reactive dyes is easy. It requires less time and low temperature for dyeing. 8) Reactive dyes are comparatively cheap 9) Reactive dyes have good perspiration fastness with rating 4-5. 10) Reactive dyes have good perspiration fastness. . 2.1.6 Dyeing mechanism of reactive dye: The dyeing mechanism of material with reactive dye takes place in 3 stages:- 1. Exhaustion of dye in presence of electrolyte or dye absorption. 2. Fixation under the influence of alkali. 3. wash-off the unfixed dye from material surface. Now they are mentioned below: Dye absorption: When fibre is immersed in dye liquor, an electrolyte is added to assist the exhaustion of dye.
  • 17. “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” ©Daffodil International University 8 Here NaCl is used as the electrolyte. This electrolyte neutralize absorption. So when the textile material is introduces to dye liquor the dye is exhausted on to the fibre. Fixation: Fixation of dye means the reaction of reactive group of dye with terminal –OH or-NH2 group of fibre and thus forming strong covalent bond with the fibre and thus forming strong covalent bond with the fibre. This is an important phase, which is controlled by maintaining proper pH by adding alkali. The alkali used for this create proper pH in dye bath and do as the dye-fixing agent. The reaction takes place in this stage is shown below: - 3. Wash-off: As the dyeing is completed, a good wash must be applied to the material to remove extra and unfixed dyes from material surface. This is necessary for level dyeing and good wash-fastness. It is done by a series of hot wash, cold wash and soap solution wash. 2.1.7 Application method: These are 3 application procedures available: 1. Discontinuous method- -Conventional method -Exhaust or constant temperature method -High temperature method -Hot critical method. 2. Continuous method- -Pad-steam method -Pad dry method - Pad thermofix method 3. Semi continuous method- - Pad roll method - Pad jig method - Pad batch method. Different methods of reactive dye application: 1) Pad-batch method.
  • 18. “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” ©Daffodil International University 9 Pad batch processes are of two types- a) Pad (alkali)-batch (cold) process. b) Pad (alkali)-batch (warm or hot) process. 2) Pad dry method 3) Pad steam method 2.1.8 Why it is called Reactive Dye Reactive dyes react with the fibres. Mainly react with cellulose fibres, e.g. cotton, jute, bastfibres, viscose, flax. It can be applied to protein fibre e.g. wool & silk. Reactive dye contains reactive group & this reactive group makes covalent bonds with the fibres& becomes part of the fibre. 2.1.9 Reason of Popularity of Reactive dye: Lower cost Simple dyeing method good reproducibility Low dyeing temperature Ability to produce bright shade Dye molecular composition 2.1.10Importance of Reactive Group Present in Reactive Dye: Reactive group do not contribute color which is determined dyechromogen group The reactive group of vinyl sulphone group is less than halogen group If number of reactive group increase, binding also increase depending ondye structure Reactive dye absorb up to 90% If the molecular weight of the reactive group increase, reactivity also increase Reactive of vinyl sulphone group increase with increase of pH & Temperature
  • 19. “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” ©Daffodil International University 10 Sulphone group has more solubility but it is not stable Reactive of Fluorine is the least & its rate of hydrolysis is also less. 2.1.11 Name of Same Reactive Dyes with company and origin: Trade Name Company Country Cibacron Cibageigy Switzerland Diamarene Sandoz Switzerland Reactone Cibageigy Switzerland Levafix Bayer Germany Remazol Hoechst Germany Livafix Bayer Germany Priazin BASF Germany Sumifix --------- Taiwan Procion ICI UK Cavalite Dupont USA Mikacion Mitshui Chemical Co. Ltd. Japan Uhopid People's China China Table-1: Reactive dyes, Company and Origin. The trade names and manufacturers are more important ranges of these Reactive Dyes are shown in. Reactive Group Fixation temperature (°c) Relative reactivity Dichlorotriazin 30 1 Difluorochloropyrimi 40 2 Dichloroquinoxaline 50 3 Monoflurotriazine 60 3 Vinylsulphone 80 4 Monochlorotriazine 95 5 Dichloro- and trichloro- pyrimidine 95 6 Table-2: Properties of major types of Reactive dye. Symmetrical dye structures with two identical reactive group, e.g. two monochlorotriazine groups in procion H-E/H-EXL dyes, have led to products with better compatibility, more reproducible exhaustion and higher fixation efficiency. More recently reactive dyes with two
  • 20. “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” ©Daffodil International University 11 dissimilar reactive groups per molecule have been developed, including the SumifixSupra(NSK) range, in which each dye molecule has a monochlorotriazine and a sulphatoethylsulphone group attached. A new range of remazol reactive dyes is believed to be of a similar constitution. In the past reactive dyes were usually classified as cold dyeing ( highly reactive) or hot dyeing ( moderately reactive). In more recent times dyes have been developed foe dyeing at intermediate temperatures or at long liquor ratios, as well as by continuous methods. 2.1.12 Process Flow Chart Of Knit Fabric Dyeing With Reactive Dyes: Fabric received from the batching section ↓ Required amount of water was taken into the machine ↓ The fabric was loaded and run for 5-10 minutes in normal temperature ↓ CK-2, D-600/C, SQ-12UD and PH-100(Scouring Chemicals) were added at a time for 5 minutes ↓ Caustic was added at normal temperature for 5 minutes ↓ Temperature increased at 600 C ↓ Hydrogen per Oxide (H2O2) was added for 5 minutes ↓ Temperature increased at 950 C and continues for 1 hrs
  • 21. “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” ©Daffodil International University 12 ↓ Sample check ↓ Cold wash at 400 C for 5-10 minutes ↓ Hot wash at 950 C for 5-10 minutes ↓ Required amount of water was loaded ↓ Croak-N was added ↓ Acetic acid was added ↓ Temperature increased at 800 C for 15-20 minutes ↓ Cold wash at 400 C and drain ↓ Water filled and Acetic acid was added ↓ PH check at 4.5 ↓ Temperature increased at 550 C
  • 22. “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” ©Daffodil International University 13 ↓ Enzyme (Bio-EC) was added and run for 1hrs at 550 C ↓ Shade check ↓ Cold wash at 400 C and drain ↓ Water filled/Required amount of water was taken ↓ Temperature increased at 95-990 C for 5-10 minutes ↓ Cold wash at 400 C and drain ↓ Acetic acid was added ↓ PH check at 4.5 ↓ EDX/200B and C/D-600 were added at a time ↓ Salt dosing ↓ Color dosing for 30 min
  • 23. “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” ©Daffodil International University 14 ↓ Run for 10 min ↓ Soda ash dosing for 40 min ↓ Run for 7 min ↓ Temperature increase at 600 C for 5 min ↓ Run for 10 min ↓ Shade check (OK) ↓ Rinsing ↓ Water was filled at required amount ↓ PS-60 was added ↓ Temperature increase at 800 C for 10 min ↓ Hot wash at 900 C for 20 min and shade check in this time (OK)
  • 24. “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” ©Daffodil International University 15 ↓ Rinsing ↓ Water was filled at required amount ↓ Acetic acid was added for neutralization for 10 min ↓ Shade check (ok) ↓ ECO/FRD was added for 10 min ↓ Rinsing ↓ Water was filled at required amount ↓ PH check at 6.5 ↓ (C.W.S) softener was added ↓ Final shade checks and run for 20 min ↓ Unload the dyed fabric
  • 25. “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” ©Daffodil International University 16 2.1.13 Which Fibers can be dyed with Reactive Dye: By reactive dyes the following fibres can be dyed successfully: 1) Cotton, rayon, flax and other cellulosic fibres. 2) Polyamide and wool fibres. 3) Silk and acetate fibres. It covers a wide range of color spectrum and includes shades varying from bright to heavy dark like, a. Violet b. Blue c. Green d. Red e. Black f. Yellow g. Etc. Assistants used for dyeing with reactive dyes: Salt: As a salt, NaCI is used widely. The salt end the following things- 1. Salt are used to increase the affinity of dye to fibre. 2. It decreases the hydrolysis rate of dyes. 3. It neutralize the electro negativity of fibre surface when immersed in solution. 4. It puts extra energy to push dye the fibre polymer ie increase absorption.  The amount of salt used depend upon the shade to be produced-  For light shade -10-20 gm/litre salt is used.  For medium shade-30-50 gm/litre is used.  For deep shade-60-100 gm/litre is used. Alkali: Alkali is used for the following purpose- 1. Alkali is used to maintain proper pH in dye bath & thus to create alkaline condition. 2. Alkali is used as a dye fixing agent. 3. As strong alkali caustic (NaOH) is used to create pH 12-12.5 when the dye is of lower reactivity.
  • 26. “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” ©Daffodil International University 17 4. As medium alkali soda ashash(Na2CO3) is used to create pH 11-12. when the dye is of medium reactivi 5. As weak alkali (NaHCO3) is used to create pH 10-11. when the dye is of high reactivity. Urea: Urea is used in continuous method of dyeing .It helps to get required shade of dye. To get dark shade more urea is used and for light shade less amount of urea used. Soaping: By soaping the extra colour is removed from fibre surface thus Wash fastness is improved .Soaping increases the brightness and Stability of dye. 2.1.14 Hydrolysis of reactive dye: Under alkaline reactive dye reacts with the terminal hydroxyl group of cellulose. But if the solution of the dye kept for long time its concentration drops. Then the dye react with the hydroxyl (OH) group of water. This reaction of dye with water is known as hydrolysis of reactive dye. After hydrolysis dye con not react with fiber. So hydrolysis increases the loss of dyes. Hydrolysis of halogen containing reactive dyes: D-R-Cl + H-OH ---------------- DR-OH + HCl Hydrolysis of activated vinyl compound containing group: D-F-CH2-CH2-OSO3H + H-OH ------------- D-F-CH2-CH2- OH + H2SO4 2.1.15Stripping of reactive dye: Partial stripping: Partial stripping is obtained by treating the dyed fabric with dilute acetic acid or formic acid. Here temperature is raised to 70-100 C and treatment is continued until the shade is removed by desired amount.  Acetic acid -------------- 0.5 - 10 g/L  Temperature ----------- 70 – 100 C Full stripping: For complete stripping the goods are first treated with sodium hydro sulphite (hydrose) at boil and then washed off and bleached with 1 g/L sodium hypochlorite (NaCl) or bleaching powder at room temperature. This is carried out as following steps- Wetting agent ------ 0.5 – 1.0 g/L NaOH -----------------3-6 g/L (Temp100-105 x 60-30min)
  • 27. “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” ©Daffodil International University 18 Hydrose---------------7-10g/L Then, Wetting agent --------------1g/L (RoomTemp x 10min) Bleaching powder ---------1g/L 2.1.16Influencing factors or controlling parameters of dyeing: 1. Salt. 2. Soda ash. 3. Time. 4. Temperature. 5. pH. 6. Wetting agent. 7. Sequestering agent. 8. Anti-creasing agent 9. Leveling agent All of these above are important in dyeing but we have worked with time, temperature, and pH. 2.1.17Dyeing problem with the type reactive dyes and its prevention: 1. Result of piebald dyeing Prevention: - Dye selection truly and precisely - Apply of dyeing standard suggested - Apply of auxiliaries suggested 2. Repetition colour, unequal dyeing results Prevention - Dye selection truly and precisely. - Correct liquor ratio - Control temperature and time process 3.Problem of crease-mark - Apply anti-crease agent mark - Heavy cloth which is dyed accommodate with machine capacities suggested.
  • 28. “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” ©Daffodil International University 19 Soda Ash 2.2.1 Soda Ash: Sodium carbonate (also known as washing soda ash, soda ashash and soda ash crystals), Na2CO3, is a sodium salt of carbonic acid (soluble in water). It most commonly occurs as a crystalline heptahydrate, which readily effloresces to form a white powder, the monohydrate. Pure sodium carbonate is a white, odorless powder that absorbs moisture from the air, has an alkaline taste, and forms a strongly alkaline water solution. Sodium carbonate is domestically well known for its everyday use as a water softener. It can be extracted from the ashes of many plants growing in sodium-rich soils. Vegetation from salt-bearing soils (the Middle East), kelp (Scotland), and seaweed (Spain) was noticeably different from ashes obtained from timber (used to create "potash" potassium carbonate) that it became known as "soda ashash " because of the sodium content.[3] It is synthetically produced in large quantities from salt (sodium chloride) and limestone by a method known as the Solvay process. Soda ashash is the active ingredient in washing soda ash. The chemical name for it is sodium carbonate, chemical formula Na2CO3. It is more basic, that is, less acidic, than sodium bicarbonate (baking soda ash), whose chemical formula is NaHCO3. The purpose of sodium carbonate is simply to increase pH. 2.2.2 Types of Soda ashAsh: Soda ashash is a white, odorless powder. It is stable, not flammable, explosive or toxic. Three primary grades are produced: Dense Soda ashAsh: Dense soda ashash, an anhydrous substance, is an important industrial chemical and is used in the manufacture of many products. Washing Soda ash: Washing soda ash is a hydrous substance made by combining light soda ashash with additional water molecules. It is used most often to improve the cleaning properties of detergents and soaps. Light Soda ashAsh: Light Soda ashAsh is used as a buffering/pH regulator in many industrial processes. Soda ashAsh Direct primarily stocks the dense grade of soda ashash, but can supply other grades as needed, as well as sodium bicarbonate.
  • 29. “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” ©Daffodil International University 20 2.2.3 Hydration: Some forms of soda ashash (e.g. that labeled as 'washing soda ash') contain more water molecules than others, which makes them weigh more and be larger for a given number of sodium carbonate molecules - this means that you need to measure out a larger quantity of the hydrated form in order to get the same results. If you buy sodium carbonate without the extra water molecules, then store it for several years in humid conditions, it will absorb some water and appear to lose strength, when in fact it has merely 'bulked up' and needs to be used in larger volumes. The type of sodium carbonate used in washing soda ash is a decahydrate, so you need to use a lot more washing soda ash than you would anhydrous soda ashash, perhaps three times as much - assuming that you are able to find pure unadulterated washing soda ash that is suitable for use in dyeing. (In theory, we should use 2.7 times as much washing soda ash as a substitute for soda ashash, if measuring by weight, or 4.6 times as much if measuring by volume.) 2.2.4 Alternative ofsoda ashash: In dyeing cotton or any other cellulose fiber, such as linen, rayon, tencel, hemp, etc., the requirement is simply to increase the pH (alkalinity) of the reaction to somewhere around 10.5 to 11; the exact ideal pH depends on the fiber being used and the individual dye color. Caustic chemicals. Other chemicals that can, in theory, be used to reach this ideal pH include NaOH (sodium hydroxide, or lye) and TSP (trisodium phosphate, sold as a heavy duty cleaner at hardware stores). Pure NaOH is very caustic and quite dangerous for those not trained as chemists. Sodium silicate. Fabric that has been painted with Procion MX or similar dyes, and the dye allowed to dry, can be treated with a liquid sodium silicate solution, also known as water glass. This product is sold under the name of PRO Fix LHF and PRO QuickFix by PRO Chemical & Dye, as Drimafix by Batik Oetoro, as Tobafix by Tobasign Dyes, and as AfterFix by Dharma Trading Company. Sodium silicate will substitute nicely for the soda ashash step above. Sodium bicarbonate. Baking soda ash, or sodium bicarbonate, decomposes at sufficiently high temperatures to form sodium carbonate, so it is an ideal substitute for dyes that will be fixed by extensive steaming or baking. It should not be used for room-temperature dyeing. Sodium bicarbonate at room temperature will produce a pH of only around 8, too low for ideal use on cotton and other cellulose fibers, though it is capable of producing some reaction.
  • 30. “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” ©Daffodil International University 21 2.2.5Material Used To Produce Soda Ash: Soda ash is an essential raw material used in many applications such as the manufacture of glass, detergents and soaps, chemicals and many other industrial processes Soda Ash , Dense/Light Application: Mainly used in chemical industry, glass-manufacturing, metallurgy, paper- manufacturing, textile, dyeing, synthetic detergent, soap, daily-use Chemical-industry, daily-use glass industry, washing powder, petrol chemical industry etc. Storage: Soda ash should be stored under cover in a cool, dry place. The specification: SODA ASH ASH LIGHT ITEM SPECIFICATION Na2CO3 99.2%MIN CHLORIDE 0.70%MAX IRON CONTENT 0.004%MAX WATER INSOLUBLE MATTER 0.08%MAX LOSS ON IGNITON 0.8%MAX SODA ASH ASH DENSE ITEM SPECIFICATION Na2CO3 99.2%MIN CHLORIDE CONTENT 0.70%MAX IRON CONTENT 0.004%MAX WATER INSOLUBLE MATTER 0.08%MAX BULK DENSITY(g/ml) 0.9%MAX FINENESS (180um residue on sieve) 70.0%MIN .
  • 31. “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” ©Daffodil International University 22 2.2.6General chemical properties of soda ashash: Chemical Name Sodium Carbonate Molecular Weight 105.989 Melting Point 851o C 1564o F Specific Gravity 20o /4o C 2.533 Specific Heat 25o C 0.249 cal/gm/o C 77o F 0.249 Btu/lb/o C 45o C 0.256 cal/gm/o C Heat of Fusion 854o C 75.5 cal/gm 135.9 Btu/lb Heat of Formation 25o C -2550 cal/gm -4590 Btu/lb Heat of Hydration Monohydrate, Na2CO3 • H2O 30.0 cal/gm Na2CO3 54.0 Btu/lb Na2CO3 Heptahydrate, Na2CO3 • 7H2O 156.4 cal/gm Na2CO3 281.5 Btu/lb Na2CO3 Decahydrate, Na2CO3 • 10H2O 208.8 cal/gm Na2CO3 375.8 Btu/lb Na2CO3 Solubility 0o C 7 gms Na2CO3 in 100 gms H2O 100o C 44.7 gms Na2CO3 in 100 gms H2O 35.37o C (max.) 49.5 gms Na2CO3 in 100 gms H2O Alkali equivalent 100 % Na2CO3 = 58.48 % Na2O Acid equivalent 1 lb Na2CO3 = 0.6881 lbHCl
  • 32. “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” ©Daffodil International University 23 Knitting 2.3.1 Basic About knitting: We know that fabrics are produced from a set of warp or weft yarn. Weaving and knitting is different for the interlacing techniques of yarn. In weaving it needs warp and weft yarn for produce woven fabric but in knitting, fabrics are produced from a series of yarn in warp or weft directions. Knitting techniques can be defined as follow. The processes in which fabrics are produced by set of connect loops from a series of yarns in warp or weft direction is defined as knitting. Different knitting machines are use to perform this techniques. Mainly two types of knitted fabrics are produced. They are as follow: Warp knitted fabrics: In a warp knitted structure, each loop in the horizontal direction is made from different thread and the number of thread used to produce such a fabric is at least equal to the numbers of loops in horizontal row. Weft knitted fabrics: A horizontal row of loops can be made using one thread runs in horizontal direction. The fabric structure is different from one from another. Weft knitted fabrics are widely use. In our daily life, we use different knitted fabrics. Depending on the fabrics design knitted fabrics can be as follow:  Single Jersey 1. Plain Single Jersey 2. Single Jersey with Lycra 3. Single Lacoste 4. Double Lacoste 5. Single Pique 6. Double Pique 7. Polo Pique 8. French Terry
  • 33. “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” ©Daffodil International University 24 9. Terry with Lycra 10. Fleece 11. Fleece with Lycra  Double Jersey  Rib Fabric 1. 1×1 Rib 2. 2×1 Rib 3. 2×2 Rib 4. Lycra Rib 5. Flat Back Rib  Interlock Fabric 1. Plain Interlock 2. Drop Needle Interlock 3. Interlock with Lycra  Collar and Cuff 1. Plain Collar or Solid Collar 2. Shaving Collar 3. Jacquard Collar 4. Tipping Collar 5. Race Collar 6. Stripe Collar Also different types of decorative design are developed by knitting machine. In modern times auto stripe knitting machine use to produce multi color stripe fabrics, which is not possible to produce by normal knitting machine. In above I have written about Lycra. Lycra use for special purpose. Use of Lycra depends on buyer requirement. It increases the elastic properties of fabrics. Different knitted fabrics have different properties. Use of knitted fabrics depends on the atmospheric condition of the country. It also depends on the choice of one. 2
  • 34. “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” ©Daffodil International University 25 Structure of knitted fabrics Knitted fabrics are divided into two basic types: warp-knit fabrics such as tricot and weft-knit fabrics such as a hand-knit sweater. Weft-knit items have the drawback that they run when cut. Warp-knit fabrics are often used in lingerie.  knits can shrink but can also extend if a rib construction.  knits have nap.  ribs/wales versus courses.  generally more elasticity along the course than along the wale. Knitting stitches Over the long history of knitting across the world, hundreds of different knitting stitches have been created. The basic building blocks of all hand knitting are the following stitches: knit, purl, cast on, cast off (also known as bind off), increase and decrease stitches. Use of a combination of these methods can provide a vast number of different textures to knitted fabrics. In order to save space in knitting patterns, the names of stitches are normally abbreviated. Composition of knitted fabrics The most common fibres used for knitted fabrics are cotton & viscose with or without elastane, these tend to be single jersey construction and are used for most t-shirt style tops.
  • 35. “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” ©Daffodil International University 26 Rubbing Fastness 2.4.1 Rubbing Fastness: A fastness is a place, such as a castle, which is considered safe because it is difficult to reach or easy to defend against attack. This test is designed to determine the degree of color which may be transferred from the surface of a colored fabric to a specify test cloth for rubbing (which could be dry and Wet). There are two test methods for rubbing fastness. 1.ISO-105-X12 2.AATCC-08 In ISO-105-X12 the wet pickup of the rubbing cloth is 100% .While in AATCC-08 the wet Pickup of the rubbing cloth is 65%.We check rubbing by Dry and Wet methods. In wet rubbing we wet the rubbing cloth according to test method and give rating by comparing the Staining with the gray scale. Similarly for dry rubbing we check the rubbing with dry rubbing cloth and compare the staining With gray scale for ratings.Color Fastness to rubbing is a main test which is always required for every colored fabric either it is Printed or dyed. If the color fastness to rubbing is good then its other properties like Washing fastness and durability etc improves automatically because the rubbing is a method to check the fixation of the color on the fabric. So if the fixation is good its washing properties will be good.
  • 36. “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” ©Daffodil International University 27 Rubbing Fastness depends on:  Nature of the Color  Depth of the Shade Construction of the FabricNature of the color Each color either it is pigment ,Reactive ,Disperse or direct has its own fastness properties to rubbing. There are some colors like black, Red ,Burgundy ,Navy blue which have poor Color fastness properties because of their chemical structure. Like Black color is a carbon base color and the particle size of carbon is large than the other colors that's why its rubbing properties are poor. Similarly red and blue are in the same case. So to improve the color fastness we add more binder to improve the fastness properties of these colors. It doesn't mean that we can not achieve the best results with these colors. The required results can achieve but production cost will be increase. On the other hand the construction of the fabric also effects the fastness properties. If the rubbing fastness on 100.80/40.40 is 3 on the gray scale it will be 2-3 on 52.52/22.22 with the same printing parameters. So always keep in mind these effects during finalize the required parameters with your customer . Always Check  Quality construction  Color  Depth of the Color  End Use of the product
  • 37. “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” ©Daffodil International University 28 2.4.2 Color fastness to Rubbing/crocking Test Procedure: Preparation of the samples • the sample has to be tested in the delivered condition; don’t wash and/or tumble it before testing • the fabric/sample has to be air conditioned at least 8 hours by standard climate (20°C / 65% relative humidity) • the air conditioned specimen has to be rubbed with the dry and wet cotton rubbing cloth in warp, weft or diagonal direction on face side. The test direction has to be noted in the test report. • use always cotton test material from James Heal (Cotton Rubbing cloth ISO 105 F09) • for a correct test result the rubbing point on cotton must show an even staining with an exact circle. Apparatus – Crock meter
  • 38. “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” ©Daffodil International University 29
  • 39. “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” ©Daffodil International University 30 Colorfastness to Rubbing ISO 105-X12 process The rubbing finger with the rubbing cloth is moved to and from along a 10 cm track on the red colored testspecimen, exerting a downward force of 9 Newton. The non colored rubbing cloth is wetted with water for performing the wet rubbing test.
  • 40. “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” ©Daffodil International University 31 The trace of the wet rubbing cloth can be seen during performance of the wet rubbing test. 2.4.3 Assessment of the specimens • the assessment has to be done independently of 2 persons; take the average as result • the assessment (E) has to be done with • 1) defined grey scale • 2) grey frame in same grey colour as background • 3) white paper as background or according to the test method one or more original multifibre to assure no transparent effect coming out of the background • under defined light D65 with defined angle of 45°
  • 41. “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” ©Daffodil International University 32 For assessment of color staining, using the “Grey Scale”, this light box is used in a darkened room. Assessment of color staining of the rubbing cloth after wet rubbing. The scale with fastness grades 1 to 3 of the nine step scale is applied.
  • 42. “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” ©Daffodil International University 33 CHAPTER-3: SIGNIFICANCE & SCOPE OF THE STUDY
  • 43. “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” ©Daffodil International University 34 3.1. Significance: By this project we have evaluated that “Effect Of Salt AndSoda ash Concentration In Dyeing Of Single Jersey Cotton Fabric”. We have taken knit fabric for maintaining same dyeing recipe with reactive dye. It is to be hope that by the end this thesis paper the reader will have a better idea rubbingand washing fastness properties on knit fabric. Dyeing sector in our country has a bright future due to wide spread market of textile area. It is directly related to the beauty of fabric. It is take in fashion, art of the fabric. We need throughout knowledge on dyeing process and also of the fashion going around the world. For that quality parameter of dyed fabric should asses in different stage of textile. 3.2. Scope of the study: Bangladesh is a developing country. And a developing country largely depends on foreign currency. Nearly 75%-80% of foreign currency is earned by exporting garments & textile. Dyeing sector plays a vital role. At present a large number of qualities depend on the fastness properties of this garments & textile. As well as this study helps to improving the fastness properties. But one thing is that in our country there have lot of differences between practical job life and general education life. It could be a problem during the time of service. So we have tried ourselves to establish a combination between our general education life & practical life with various article, documents & calculation. We hope this thesis will give a way to learn improving the fastness properties which will help in the future to lead our textile & garments sector.  In this thesis in the 1st chapter we discuss about the objective of this thesis.  In the 2nd chapter we discuss about the reactive dyes, knit fabric and fastness properties.  In the 3rd chapter we discuss about significance & scope of this study.  In the 4th chapter we discuss about the research & methodology of this thesis.  In the 5th chapter we discuss about analysis & findings of this thesis.  And in the 6th chapter we discuss about the overview of the thesis as conclusion.
  • 44. “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” ©Daffodil International University 35 CHAPTER-4: RESEARCH METHODOLOGY
  • 45. “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” ©Daffodil International University 36 4.1. Flow chart of our Research: Sample collection ↓ Sample measurement (5gm) ↓ Scouring and bleaching ↓ Dyeing Recipe Calculation ↓ Stock solution preparation ↓ Dyeing ↓ Drying ↓ Rubbing with dry and wet condition and wash fastness test ↓ Sample assessment
  • 46. “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” ©Daffodil International University 37 4.2.Sample Collection: For this research we have taken 100% cottonknit fabric from Novel Hurricane Knit Garments Ltd for maintaining same dyeing recipe with reactive dye. After that we have done the dyeing process including scouring, bleaching & finishing process. And then we have tested the rubbing fastness properties of knit fabrics. 4.2.1. Recipe for the dyeing process of the knit fabric is given below: Scouring & Bleaching Recipe:  Sequestering agent: 0.5gm/l  Detergent: 1gm/l  Wetting agent:1gm/l  Stabilizer: 0.5gm/l  H2O2: 2.5gm/l  Caustic Soda: 2gm/l Dyeing Recipe:  Leveling Agent: 1gm/l  Reactive Yellow-.214% (Stock solution=0.5%)  Reactive Red-.12% (Stock solution=0.5%)  Reactive Blue-1.76%(Stock solution=1%)  Glauber Salt:50/55/6070/80gm/l (Stock solution=25%)  Soda Ash:10/12.5/15/20gm/l (Stock solution=25%)  For each bath we dyed 1 sample with salt and soda ashconcentration of salt/soda ash 60/12.5 gm/l,60/10 gm/l,50/15 gm/l,60/20 gm/l ,70/15 gm/l ,80/20 gm/l and other chemicals and dyes are same for each bath.  M:L=1:8 After completing the Scouring, Bleaching and dying process then we completed the after treatment process. In the dyeing process we are used M:L: 1:8 liquor ratio. For the all sample we are used this dyeing recipe. After completing this dyeing process then we tested the fastness properties of this samples. These are given below:
  • 47. “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” ©Daffodil International University 38 4.2.2. Rubbing fastness test: Rubbing fastness is the resistance to fading of dyed textiles when rubbed against a rough surface. The fastness to crocking or rubbing is widely used on a variety of fabric to evaluate the transfer of surface dye from the test fabric when it is applied surface friction or rubbed against a rough surface. Two types of rubbing test are done-  Dry  Wet Apparatus:  Crock meter  Grey scale staining  Stop Watch  Color Matching Cabinet.  Size of Fabric: You will need to have 15 Cm × 5 Cm pieces of textile fabric sample (one warp direction/ wale direction and other weft/ course direction). Principle: This test is designed to determine the degree of color which may be transferred from the surface of a colored fabric to a specify test cloth for rubbing (which could be dry and Wet). This test is undertaken on a crock meter, whereby the fabric specimen is subjected to rubbing with a sample of standard undyed cotton fabric in order to check for color transfer.   Test Procedure of Color Fastness to Rubbing: Lock the testspecimen (textile sample) onto the base of the crock meter. Using the spinal clip, set 5 Cm × 5Cm of the white cotton fabric to the finger of the crock meter. Lower the covered finger on the test sample. Turn hand crank at the rate of the one turn per second. Remove the white rubbing test cloth and evaluate with grey scale.   
  • 48. “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” ©Daffodil International University 39 Evaluation: In this stage compare the contrast between the treated and untreated white rubbing cloth with grey scale and rated 1 to 5. 4.3.1. Wash fastness test: Required Apparatus:  SDC recommended multi-fiber fabric or recommended by ISO  Grey scale for color changing  Grey scale for staining  Thermometer  Dryer  Color matching cabinet  Steel ball  Sewing machine Wash Fastness Test It color fastness testing system by which we can find out the wash fastness grade of a fabric. Here grey is and multifibe is used for the determination of staining and color change grade. Adjacent Multifibre Grey scale:
  • 49. “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” ©Daffodil International University 40 Recipe: Test soap : 5 g/l (ECE-4g/l+ Sodium perbret 1g/l) Washing Temperature : 600 C Washing Time : 30 Min M:L : 1:50 Steel ball : 25 PH : 10.5 4.3.2. Procedure: The dyed fabric to be tested was cut into a (4cm X 10cm) size and then sewn with Multifibre fabric of same size. Then the specimen was washed with ISO recommended detergent and the given recipe was used. After washing , the specimen was rinsed well with cold water and then dried Finally the dyed fabric before and after wash was assessed with standard "Grey Scale " and grade for the alternation of the color was obtained. The staining of color in the multifibre fabrics was also evaluated using a different "Grey Scale " 4.3.3. Grade for Wash Fastness: Fastness grade Fastness Quality Staining Grade-1 Very poor Deep staining Grade-2 Poor Significant staining Grade-3 Fair Moderate staining Grade-4 Good Very slight staining Grade-5 Excellent No Staining Tables-3: Fastness grade with details
  • 50. “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” ©Daffodil International University 41 ASSESSMENT:  Change in color -The exposed part is compared with original dyed fabric with the help of grey-scale.  Staining -The undyed fabric used for covering is compared with the original undyed fabric by grey-scale for staining.
  • 51. “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” ©Daffodil International University 42 4.4. SAMPLE ATTACHMENT A. Attachment of Samples Dyed with Reactive Dye Attached Samples (Dyeing with 60 g/l Salt & 10g/l Soda ash) Attached Samples (Dyeing with 60 g/l Salt & 12.5 g/l Soda ash) Attached Samples (Dyeing with 50 g/l Salt & 15g/l Soda ash) Attached Samples (Dyeing with 55 g/l Salt & 15g/l Soda ash) Attached Samples (Dyeing with 60 g/l Salt & 20 g/l Soda ash) Attached Samples (Dyeing with 70 g/l Salt & 15 g/l Soda ash) Sample no. 01 Sample no. 02 Sample no. 03 Sample no. 04 Sample no. 05 Sample no. 06
  • 52. “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” ©Daffodil International University 43 B. Attachment of Color Fastness to washing Test Samples Attached Samples (Dyeing with 60 g/l Salt & 10g/l Soda ash) Attached Samples (Dyeing with 60 g/l Salt & 12.5 g/l Soda ash) Attached Samples (Dyeing with 50 g/l Salt & 15g/l Soda ash) Attached Samples (Dyeing with 55 g/l Salt & 15g/l Soda ash) Attached Samples (Dyeing with 60 g/l Salt & 20 g/l Soda ash) Attached Samples (Dyeing with 70 g/l Salt & 15 g/l Soda ash) Sample no. 01 Sample no. 02 Sample no. 03 Sample no. 04 Sample no. 05 Sample no. 06
  • 53. “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” ©Daffodil International University 44 C. Attachment of Rubbing Fastness Test Samples Attached Samples (Dyeing with 60 g/l Salt & 10g/l Soda ash) Attached Samples (Dyeing with 60 g/l Salt & 12.5 g/l Soda ash) Attached Samples (Dyeing with 50 g/l Salt & 15g/l Soda ash) Attached Samples (Dyeing with 55 g/l Salt & 15g/l Soda ash) Attached Samples (Dyeing with 60 g/l Salt & 20 g/l Soda ash) Attached Samples (Dyeing with 70 g/l Salt & 15 g/l Soda ash) Sample no. 01 Sample no. 02 Sample no. 03 Sample no. 04 Sample no. 05 Sample no. 06
  • 54. “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” ©Daffodil International University 45 CHAPTER-5: ANALYSIS & FINDINGS
  • 55. “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” ©Daffodil International University 46 5.1. Data Analysis and Findings: 5.1.1. Data Analysis for Salt variation: Observation of Shade at various concentration of Salt: Data Table No:01 Sample no. Salt Soda ash Shade% Shade check (Light source-D65) 01 50 15 (Yellow-0.214%+Red- 0.12% +Blue-1.76% =2.94%) Lighter than 01 and 02 02 55 15 Lighter than 03,darker than 01 03 70 15 Darker than 01 and 02 From data table-1 we see that when concentration of salt is increased(sample -03) the shadebecome darker and when decreased (sample-01) the shade become lighter and when salt is decreased a little the shade become darker than-01 and lighter than 03 Observation of Rubbing fastness at various salt concentration: Data Table No:02 Sample no. Salt Soda ash Shade% Rubbing Test Dry Wet 01 50 15 (Yellow-0.214%+Red- 0.12% +Blue-1.76% =2.94%) 4-5 2-3 02 55 15 4-5 3 03 70 15 4 2 From data table-02 we see that sample no.02 give better rubbing fastness properties than sample 01 and 03.
  • 56. “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” ©Daffodil International University 47 Observation of Color fastness to washing at various salt concentration: Data Table No:03 Sample no. Salt Soda ash Shade% Color fastness to washing (BS EN ISO-105-E01-1996) 01 50 15 (Yellow-0.214%+Red- 0.12% +Blue-1.76% =2.94%) 4-5 02 55 15 4-5 03 70 15 2 From data table -03 we can see that wash fastness property of sample 03 is poor.But sample 01 and 02 give good fastness properties. 5.1.2. Data Analysis for Soda variation: Observation of Shade at various soda ash concentration: Data Table No:01 Sample no. Salt Soda ash Shade% Shade check (Light source-D65) 04 60 10 (Yellow-0.214%+Red- 0.12% +Blue-1.76% =2.94%) Lighter than 1 and 2 05 60 12.5 Lighter than 03,darker than 01 06 60 20 Darker than 1 and 2 From data table-1 we see that when concentration of soda is increased (sample -06) the shadebecome darker and when decreased (sample-04) the shade become lighter and and when decreased (sample-01) the shade become lighter and when salt is decreased a little the shade become darker than-01 and lighter than 03.
  • 57. “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” ©Daffodil International University 48 Observation of Rubbing fastness at various soda concentration: Data Table No:02 Sample no. Salt Soda ash Shade% Rubbing Test Dry Wet 04 60 10 (Yellow-0.214%+Red- 0.12% +Blue-1.76% =2.94%) 4-5 2-3 05 60 12.5 4-5 2-3 06 60 20 4 2 From data table 02 we can see that rubbing fastness property of sample 06 is better than sample 04 and 05. Observation of Color fastness to washing at various soda concentration: Data Table No:03 Sample no Salt Soda ash Shade% Color fastness to washing (BS EN ISO-105-E01-1996) 04 60 10 (Yellow-0.214%+Red- 0.12% +Blue-1.76% =2.94%) 4-5 05 60 12.5 4 06 60 20 4-5 From data table-03 we see that color fastness to washing properties of sample 04 and 06 are better than sample 05 Findings:  Every baththe concentrationof saltwas 50/55/60/60/60/70/80 gm/l.  And everybath Soda ash concentration was 10/12.5/15/15/15/20/20gm/l. So we can easily find that, due to increase or decrease of salt and soda ash concentration effect on the dye fixation and exhaustion and its also effect on fastness properties of fabric.
  • 58. “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” ©Daffodil International University 49 CHAPTER-6: CONCLUSION
  • 59. “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” ©Daffodil International University 50 Study is occurring in this project about the cotton, reactive dye and different dyed cotton knitted samples colorfastness properties. Reactive dye works in the alkali medium. Different salt & alkali show different effect on the dyed goods. For this reason we tried to compare the fastness properties by using different salt &soda ash concentration in same dyeing recipe. Then we tried to find out the best one by using various types of testing method like- Rubbing fastness test, Wash fastness test. After getting all information we analysis the all data and make a decision that, how fastness properties are changed during reactive dyeing with cotton with various salt &soda ash concentration. So, finally completing the whole research on ,“Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” We have reached at end with the result-  According to treatment with various concentration of salt where soda concentration was constant sample no.02 shown the best result with color fastness to wash which grade is 4- 5 and rubbing fastness grade for dry is 4-5 and grade for wet is 3.  According to treatment with various concentration of soda where salt concentration was constant sample no.06 shown the best result with color fastness to wash which grade is 4- 5 and rubbing fastness grade for dry is 4 and grade for wet is 2. So finally we can say that after completing the research we have found the end of the project with the result of 100% cotton S/J knit fabric where sample no 02 and 06 are showing good colorfastness and rubbing fastness properties with the treatment of 55 gm/l salt and 15 gm/l soda (sample-02) and 60 gm/l salt and 20 gm/l soda (sample-06)
  • 60. “Effect of salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dye.” ©Daffodil International University 51 REFERENCES: Internet link:  http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/01/dyeing-of-cotton-fabric-with- reactive.html#ixzz2sQMwITlF  http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/01/why-so-called-reactive-dye-history- of.html#ixzz2wu6OVqQV  http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2013/10/reactive-dyestuff-dyeing-method- of.html#ixzz2wiRGYUdJ  http://textilebe-dyeing.blogspot.com/2011/01/effect-of-ph-on-cotton-dyeing-with.html  http://textilefashionstudy.com/knitting-technology-definition-and-types-of-knitted- fabrics-produced-in-knitting-mills/  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knitting  http://garmentstech.com/colour-fastness-to-rubbingcrocking-test-procedure/  http://www.ansac.com/products/about-soda ash-ash/  http://thxchem.en.alibaba.com/product/846752559-218601321/uses_of_soda ash_ash_for_textile_industry.html  http://www.pburch.net/dyeing/FAQ/soda ashash.shtml Books from Daffodil International University Library Online Books