WOOL MONDAYS 1 -Wool Ecosystems

From global
to local
Life-Cycle
Thinking
Cultural
Heritage
Open Source
Hands-on and
DIY

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From global
to local
Life-Cycle
Thinking
Cultural
Heritage
Open Source
Hands-on and
DIY
15.00 - 17.00
Wool Ecosystems by shemakes Labs and external speakers
17.00 - 19.00
Mapping by co-creation
AGENDA

This project has received funding from the
European Union’s Horizon 2020 research and innovation
programme under grant agreement No 101006203.
Introduction to shemakes and
WOOL LAB to LAB Research
Wool mondays - 2nd may 2022
Marion REAL - IAAC FAB LAB BARCELONA
https://fablabbcn.org/

Shemakes network
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Goal & ambition
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Based on the FABRICADEMY
curricula, addresses three age
groups, 8-18, 18-25 and 25+
Based on TCBL builds
community, assists businesses
and encourages Lab-to-lab
research
Identifies and champions
three types of female role
models: ambassadors, gurus
and advisory board members
Learning paths Innovation services Reputation management
Shemakes activities
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A COLLABORATIVE PROJECT ON WOOL
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Wool has a rich and deep history, and in fact many techniques
from the past century are still in use today. Various cultures
and places share this resource, at varying levels of quality
according to the species of origin. Now, traditional techniques
face the risk of being lost, some parts of the raw material are
wasted, while post-consumer wool is poorly valued. Many
local communities wish to reshape local value-chains around
wool, from farmers, spinners, weavers, designers, makers,
waste management and up-cycling centres.

QUICK FACTS ABOUT WOOL
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Australia produces about 345 million kilos of wool every year – about one
quarter of the world's wool. This makes Australia the world's leading
producer of wool, followed by China, Russia, New Zealand, Argentina, South
Africa, the UK and Uruguay.
A single sheep provides around 4.5 kg of wool per year, the
equivalent of 10 or more metres of fabric. This is enough for six
sweaters, three suit and trouser combinations, or to cover one large
sofa

Wool Production in Europe
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2018 243,352 tonnes
1998 265,294 tonnes
1988 282,079 tonnes
1978 788,533 tonnes
1968 680,608 tonnes

Getting familiar with wool processes
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Pictures
Wool process flow and possible interventions by Waag

Understanding of local
dynamics and challenges
regarding the processes of
wool, from sheep to fabric
to recycling
Exploration of local natural
dyes, from botanical to
mineral and fungal, to
food-waste dyes
Redesign and production
of small scale tools for the
processing of small
quantities of wool
Ecosystem mapping Natural Dyeing (DIY) Tool making
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Three research groups and projects
PLACE DESIGN MAKE

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AN OPEN SOURCE REPOSITORY TO DOCUMENT
http://fabricademy.fabcloud.io/shemakes/handbook/2.-innovation-services/Lab-to-Lab-Research/

Navigating through the handbook- WIP
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Invitation to WOOL MONDAYS in MAY 2022

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WOOL MONDAYS
May 2, May 16, May 23
Register >> https://www.shemakes.eu/woolmondays

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Joining Events, Hosting Workshops, Sharing together
Available in the handbook, with more precise resource.

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From global
to local
Life-Cycle
Thinking
Cultural
Heritage
Open Source
Hands-on and
DIY
DAY 1
Local Ecosystem
Stories &
Collective
Mapping

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EMOTIONAL NETWORKING
Join us in MIRO
https://miro.com/app/board/uXjVO99to
4M=/?share_link_id=877396359722

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Ecosystem
mapping
● From global
to local
● Life-Cycle
Thinking
● Cultural
Heritage
● Open
Access
● Hands-on
and DIY

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From global
to local
Life-Cycle
Thinking
Cultural
Heritage
Open Source
Hands-on and
DIY
#frontrunners_labs
- Austrian context, FarmLab, Silvia and Martin (12mn)
- Dutch context, Waag team and invitees (10mn)
- Catalan context, Iaac , Anastasia, Marion (10mn)
#discovery_research
- Greek mountain context, Decode Lab , Olivia (5mn)
- Romanian context, Redu, (10mn)
- Alpine context, Onlfait (5mn)
- Belgium context, Green Fabric (5-10mn)
#mature_ecosystems
- Icelandic Wool context, Icelandic Center, Margret and Elsa (10mn)
- Prato context, Lottozero, Tessa (10mn)
- UK and beyond, Center for Circular Design, Sanne (10mn)
- European Wool Day, EWE foundation (8mn)
Q&A and launching of the co-creation session (10mn)
WOOL ECOSYSTEMS

The southeast Styrian (Austria) CONTEXT
WOOL ecosystem
Wool Mondays PLACE DAY
Martin Gutmann
Silvia Brandi
FarmLab
www.farmlab.at

Southeast Styrian Context
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“Sheep farming used to be something
that only poor people did”
Monika Reindl, WollGenuss

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Sheep &
Alpacas
mad Shearers
“Right after the war 1Kg of wool, 1Kg of butter and
1Kg of honey would cost the same…
Today 1kg of unwashed wool costs 40 cents…”
Monika Meissl, WollGenuss

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Local
Wool Mill
Kapfenstein
Wool
“How can it be allowed
to throw wool and wear plastic?”
Kordula Gutmann, FarmLab

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Female Wool
Entrepreneurs Manu Roll’s mill / Erika’s Wollwerskstatt / WollGenuss Association
“Since I had alpacas, I got machines from Canada to
process the wool, and doing so I filled a niche in the market”
Manuela Roll, Alpakawollmühle

Southeast Styria: a tour of the FarmLab
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The Dutch CONTEXT
WOOL ecosystem
Beatriz Sandini, Cecilia Raspanti, Ista Boszhard
TextileLab Amsterdam | Waag
waag.org/en/lab/textilelab

Amsterdam, The Netherlands
Fabricademy and educational
programs
Creative research & holistic
research methodology
BioShades
.
OPEN
FAIR
INCLUSIVE
. ● small scale production
● spreading models
● natural dyes
● lot of sheep in NL
● variety of initiatives
● women working
independently with wool
.
TextileLab Amsterdam | Waag
Beatriz Sandini, Cecilia Raspanti, Ista Boszhard
.
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Dutch Context
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1 million sheep
15 breeds
2 million kg of wool
Re-building local chains
Landscape preservation
source: pleed.nl
source: pleed.nl
from WASTE to RESOURCES

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Hollands
Wol
Collectief
The Knitwit
Stable
Pure Wol
Dutch Context
Loop.a life
Circularity
Works
Studio Pluis
Pleed

meet some Dutchies
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Texelaars: the body builder
super
muscles
Zeeuwse melkschaap
Schoonebeker: dutch living heritage
& stubborness
Merino: the princess
NL bontse
Drents heideschaap: long hair multicolor beauty
Flevolander: very fertile, ivory white shinny hair
Zwartbles
Mergelland: lost beauty
Veluws: the ancient lady
Kempisch

Thank you
@textilelabamsterdam
waag.org
Contact: textilelab@waag.org

[CATALAN] CONTEXT by IAAC
WOOL ecosystem
Anastasia Pistofidou, Petra Garajova
IaaC Fab Lab Barcelona
https://fablabbcn.org/

Barcelona, Spain
- Poblenou 22@ District
- Valldaura Natural park
FabTextiles Research 2013
Fabricademy and educational
programs
Circular Communities
Distributed Design and Fab City
vision
.
Innovation
Citizen-science
Hands-on
Open-Source
Transdisciplinar
Circular
.
Wool, as a local resource, with
a strong heritage in Cataluña
Wool Waste is a important
issue we would like to tackle
.
IAAC Fab Lab Barcelona
.
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[Catalonia] Context
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MNACTEC The National Museum of Science and Industry
Permanent Exhibition “The Textile Mill “

[Catalonia] Context
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There are 3 main types of Catalonian sheep with different wool quality and different existing
structures to develop, maintain and sustain the practice of wool production:
Xisqueta, Ripolesa, Aranesa.
During 15 years, a local ecosystem of wool was activated to valorize the Xisqueta wool who was
about to disappear. Testimonies from farmers, craftswomen, a caravan for knowledge
transmission and small wool production.
Ripolesa
Xisqueta
Aranesa
https://fecoc.compsaonline.com/

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[Catalonia] Context
Teixidors: social cooperative that has
recovered Terrassa's textile tradition in
producing handmade woven products.
1983
http://www.xisqueta.cat/ https://llanatura.com/

BE GROUNDED, Lara Campos
Fabricademy, Textile and Technology Academy, BCN 2018-19
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Extract from documentary> Grow your clothes: grass dress, algae shoes, kombucha fabric

Wool as fiber reinforcement in algae based bioleathers
Materia Bruta-Worth project
Partnership with Surzhana
Radnaeva 2019
Squeeze the orange-SISCODE
Remix el Barrio Pilot, 2020
Coralle
Fabricademy BCN
Janvi Goel, 2022
Black Matter- Fabtextiles
Research on reinforcing
bioleathers with wool, 2018

ROBOT TUFTING, IAAC MAA2, Workshop April 2022
Faculty> Marielena Papandreou, Anastasia Pistofidou, Daniil Kohelyu
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Experimental Wool Materials, 3D printing and lanolin
Petra Garajova, 2021
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Bioplastics with lanolin
Master thesis AAAD Prague, 2020/21
3D printing with wool waste
Medialab Matadero in Madrid, 2021

States of Matter, DIY Keratin Extraction from wool waste
Petra Garajova, Fabricademy BCN, 2021-22
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Local Wool Waste
Nano-fibers Biofilms Textile coatings 3D printing
Keratin Chemical extraction DIY Tools

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States of Matter Petra Garajová, Fabricademy BCN 2021-22

Current Research
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- Spinning Local Wool with Hilo
Machine
- Robot Tufting with IAAC MAA2
students
- Wool fiber Reinforcement of
Biomaterials
- MAKE.WORKS stakeholder
platform Catalonia
- Activate culture heritage with
the CENTRINNO project
Key Learnings & Challenges
- The rare industrial mills left in Spain require a
minimum of 500 kg of raw wool.
- As wool objects rely on the well-being of their
sheep and their environment, the care of
processes, projects depend on people who are
running them
- Cultural heritage is about maintaining memories
and make projects live and evolve through the
motivations of people
- Local wool projects can stop. Hopefully the
knowledge is preserved with the stories people left
behind.
- The links between Wool waste or bad-quality wool
+ digital fabrication need to be explored more

Thank you
@fablabbcn, @fabtextiles
https://www.fablabbcn.org
Contact:
shemakes@fablabbcn.org

[GREEK] CONTEXT by Decode Lab
WOOL ecosystem
Olivia Kotsifa
Decode Fab Lab
https://www.decodefablab.com/

Athens, Greece
Agiou Thoma 9
SYN FAB LAB (collaborator -
mobile Lab in Greece)
KEY ACTIVITIES
● workshops for young makers
8-18 yrs
● new technologies and
traditional ways of making
● SDG awareness and ways to
implement ideas in their
communities
.
VALUES AND FORM OF
ENGAGEMENT
● access in remote areas
● collaboration
● local production
. WHY WOOL?
● local material
● discuss with young makers
what they can accomplish
for their local community
● heritage
.
Decode Fab Lab - Greece
Olivia Kotsifa
.
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[Romanian] CONTEXT by REDU
WOOL ecosystem
Andreea Sofronea, Elvys Sandu, Alexandra Florea
& Oana Tudose
REDU
redu.org.ro

IAȘI, România
SOCIAL ENTREPRENEURSHIP
REDESIGN & UPCYCLING
SLOW FASHION
CIRCULARITY
RAISING AWARENESS
ALMOST ZERO WASTE SHOP
.
SOCIAL
INCLUSIVE
HANDS ON
WASTE AS RESOURCES
. Wool is the fiber that has created close bonds
between women for many generations, based
on the exchange of processing techniques
Reconnecting the younger generation to
traditions and heritage
.
REDU- Romania
Andreea Sofronea & Elvys Sandu
.
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Romanian Context
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· Sheep farming in Romania is a very
old preoccupation dating back to
the 12th century;
· Shepherding and pastoralism are
part of the Romanian patrimony and
heritage;
· Wool in Romania is strongly
connected to women;
Heritage and history of wool

Textile artist
Romanian Innovative projects
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ISAI
Alexandra Florea Oana Tudose

ISAI
The Journey of a Wool
Sweater
Born between Iasi, Romania
and Rotterdam, the Netherlands
in 2020
A slow fashion concept
Research shows in Romania
75% of farms are losing wool

Started with Etsy
Born in knit Daughter of Mother Elena Local Sourcing
ISAI – The Journey of A Wool Sweater
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Hand knit in Romania
Industrial Knit in Portugal

Inspiration
Local Practices
Online Business
ISAI – The Journey of A Wool Sweater
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Endless Column
Constantin Brancusi
Thejourneyisinwards.com

Oana Tudose | textile art
The garden Imaginary archaic

Oana Tudose | textile art
Fragments of a forest series oanatudose.com

● The wool sector has been insignificant in the last 30 years .
● Today there are very few wool processing factories left and farmers do not have access
to them;
● There are very few artisans and craftsmen who still know and practice the traditional
methods of wool processing;
● Until April 2022 wool was dumped, buried or burned by farmers.
Romanian Challenges
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Thank you
@REDU
https://redu.org.ro
https://www.facebook.com/redu.org/
Contact:
andreea@maibine.eu
elvys@maibine.eu

[ALPINE] CONTEXT by Onl’fait
WOOL ecosystem
Shannon Sykes
Onl’fait

℅ MACO
CH. DES SPORTS 87
1203 GENEVA SWITZERLAND
● digital manufacturing
● urban manufacturing
● education
● technology with and for
society
.
● sustainability
● open source
● non profit
● knowledge circulation
.
● heritage
● textile
● innovation
.
ONL’FAIT
Geneva, Switzerland
.
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Onl’fait explorations
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3D printed spindle
Fabrigrathering
in Paros
Oknitme
(Serpica Naro)
Open source
Circular knitting
(MACO)
Orange biomaterial
(FabTextiles recipe)

Local wool projects
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Filature de l’Avançon
Vallée des Plans sur Bex + Vaud
Défrise ton mouton,
Thones + Marthaud
Laines delphines
Isère - Dauphiné
Laines d’ici
Jurassian Arc
Phil Angora
Rabbit wool in Haute
Savoie
Arpin
Manufacture of stoles
since 1817

Wool product brand knitted
by swiss grand-mothers
https://www.jacottetricote.com/en
Original projects
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Local project of wool spinning
factory from Geneva sheep
https://www.instagram.com/lapetit
elaine.geneve/
(stand-by)
Hand-woven textiles
https://petramarciniak.com/ with
studio at Ecrevis
La petite Laine Jacotte tricotte Petra Marciniak

[Alpine] Context
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French-speaking Wool Heritage and clusters
Interprofessional association whose objective is to
support all players in the French wool industry in order
to increase the quantity of wool recycled locally by
multiplying the uses of this raw material as noble as it
is biodegradable.
> Wool Academy: set of media to get knowledge
> POC tracability: Digital passport for the wool players
within Chaire Bali development
Ardelaine, cooperative and living
museum of wool and sheep presents the
history of wool working with a production
workshop. In South-Alpes - Ardeches
> Cooperative mindset and governance
> Cultural heritage with museum and
visits
> Local productions

How to foster cooperation with local wool ecosystems
and the designers/makers looking for contributing to
local heritage ?
How to build more sustainable economic model for
such small-scale initiatives to be maintained ?
All stakeholders are worried about loss of knowledge
and activities. How to avoid such drama?
Challenges
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[Belgium] CONTEXT by Green Fabric
WOOL ecosystem
Name of
speakers
Lab Name
website

Rue Jean-Baptiste Baeck 33,
1190 Forest, Belgium
Fablab textile
workshop place
Creators coworking space.
.
Non profit
open source
inclusivity
Autonomy
Circular
.
Local resources
Open source tools
Wool properties
.
Green Fabric
.
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https://www.aqualaine.be/
centre touristique laine & mode à Verviers
Context
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Heritage and life cycle of
wool-making in your territory
Animalaine, musée vivant de la laine
à Bastogne Luxembourg ...

In Belgium, 9 sheeps breeds are of local origin :
- Le Campinois
- Le mouton de Laeken ;
- Le mouton ﬂamand (Vlaams schaap) ;
- Le Vlaams kuddeschaap,
- L’Ardennais roux,
- L’Ardennais tacheté,
- Le Mergelland ;
- Le Laitier belge ;
- Et l’Entre-Sambre-et-Meuse.
[Belgium] Context
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WOOL Characteristic and typologies
L’ardennais roux

Belgium Context
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Wool projects in Belgium
Nuances de plantes - Belgium
association around natural dye
https://nuancesdeplantes.wor
dpress.com/
Blackwool : utilisation de laine
locale, ﬁlage, teinture, tissage à
Bruxelles
https://www.facebook.com/
1030BlackWool/
Herba lana -
Weaving and natural
dye
https://herbalana.eu/
filature de laine locale
La Filature du Hibou -
Accueil

Local mini mill is a
great answer to
produce local
wool.
Frederique Bagoly
- Filature du Hibou
Belgium Context
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Rethinking wool - 2 days of talks and workshops around wool
Vegetal color is
great but we
cannot convert
too much soil to
grow dye plants.
Sylvie lechat -
Kaleidogarden
We are used to
merino wool, local
wool is more
rustic, we have to
change our
clothing habits.
Monique -
Herbalana
Industrial
production chain
is not able to use
local wool,
because of its
diversity.
Margherita - Maia
archive

[Icelandic Wool] CONTEXT by Icelandic Textile centre
WOOL ecosystem
Margrét Katrín Guttormsdóttir
Icelandic Textile Center TextileLab
https://www.textilmidstod.is/en

Árbraut 31
540, Blönduós
Iceland
KEY ACTIVITIES
● Collaboration with textile
designers, scholars,
entrepreneurs and artists
● Exploring heritage vs. new
technologies
.
VALUES AND FORM OF ENGAGEMENT
● Textile innovation
● Sustainability
● Lengthen the lifetime of
textiles
● Use of local resources
.
WHY WOOL
● A local resource
● Heritage and history
● Unique qualities
.
Icelandic Textile Center
.
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Iceland Context - History
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● Wool and wool production has been a part
of Icelandic history since the time of the
first settlers. Wool kept the nation warm
and dry and houses isolated.
● It was used as currency: for centuries, wool
& wool products were one of Iceland's
main exports.
● Wool was hand-spun into yarn to be
knitted or crocheted into hats, mittens,
socks, blankets, shawls, and
undergarments.
● Garments were typically knitted three sizes
too large and then felted down to size to
make the clothing windproof.

Iceland Context - Tradition
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● Today, wool is considered a by-product of the meat
industry. Since 1980, the number of sheep has
decreased significantly, which can be largely attributed
to the low price of sheep products and difficult farming
conditions.
● According to the 2020 yearly autumn reports of Statistics
Iceland, there are now 401.022 sheep in Iceland (1980:
828,000). This number continues to drop.
● After shearing, wool is sent to company Ístex, processing
around 99% of Icelandic wool, where it is both washed
and processed. Ístex categorizes the wool into classes;
around half of it is used and spun into yarn. Other Ístex
products include blankets and duvets. The other half is
shipped out of the country.

Iceland Context - Characteristics
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The northern climate and isolation of Iceland has
given Icelandic wool its distinctive characteristics:
● The wool is dual-coated with a
combination of inner and outer fibers.
● The soft inner fibers (“þel”) keep sheep
warm and are highly isolating. It is used for
soft, fine yarns in undergarments and baby
clothes.
● The outer fibers (“tog”) are strong, long
and working as an outer coat providing
weather resistance for sheep.
● When spun together, tog and þel create a
high-quality wool that is lightweight,
water-repellent and highly breathable.

Icelandic Context - wool colors
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Icelandic sheep come in many different
colors. There are, however, only three
categories of fleece color:
● Color - two basic ones: black and
moorit, including a range of hues
● Pattern - is sectioned into 6 types:
White, Gray, Badgerface, Mouflon, Solid,
Grey Mouflon.
● Spotted - is sectioned into 32 different
types, which will not be listed here!

Wool projects in Iceland
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Ístex Wool Duvets Iceland Knit Fest - Festival Ýrúrarí
Þingborg Uppspuni Mini Mill Fashion Designer

PRATO CONTEXT
WOOL ecosystem
Tessa Moroder
Lottozero textile laboratories
www.lottozero.org

VIA ARNO 10,
59100 PRATO ITALY
- textile laboratory
- coworking
- exhibition space
- educational space
- textile consulting studio
.
- sustainability
- quality
- open source
- non profit
.
WHY WOOL?
WHY NOT?
.
Lottozero textile laboratories
.
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Prato Context, Italy
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Huge Textile Industry Recycled Wool 7 Million Sheep in Italy

Prato Context (Analysis)
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Prato Context (Tests)
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Wool Tops Yarn

Prato Context (Samples)
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Yarn Samples Woven Samples Tufted Samples

Prato Context (Prototypes)
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Curtains Accessories Carpet

Prato Challenges
COST QUALITY
MARKET
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Thank you
@lottozero
https://www.lottozero.org
Contact: info@lottozero.org

[UK and beyond] CONTEXT by CCD
WOOL ecosystem
Prof. Rebecca Earley & Sanne Visser
Centre for Circular Design
www.circulardesign.org.uk

Our location:
Chelsea College of Arts
University of the Arts London
London, United Kingdom
Our focus
Design Research
Knowledge Exchange
.
How?
• Cross- and Interdisciplinary
• Multi stakeholder
engagement
• Co-creation / Participatory
.
Why wool?
Exploring the UK context
of wool through the lens
of design research
.
Prof. Rebecca Earley & Sanne Visser
.
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Introduction CCD
Wool within CCD and beyond
4
Circular Economy Context
2
CCD Tools & Frameworks
3
CCD X Shemakes
Overview
1
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Conclusion: UK Circular Wool
5

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Centre for Circular Design at
University of the Arts London is a
leading voice in academic design
research and knowledge exchange.
The team focus is on using practice
research approaches to create
multiple outputs to steer and
support circular economies and
communities around the globe.
• Researchers
• PhD Students
• External Industry & Academic Experts

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Workshops
What do we do?
• Research
• Workshops & Public events
• Prototyping new materials and tools
• Curating
• Advisory Roles
• Report Writing

Our work
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From major research projects…..
Herewear (2020-2024) TRASH-2-CASH (2015-2018) Mistra Future Fashion
(2015-2019)

Our work
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To industry Knowledge Exchange (KE) projects...
VF Corporation (USA); H&M (Sweden); Puma (Germany); Material Connexions (Italy)

Our work
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….. to our most recent small Knowledge Exchange (KE) projects
CharioCity Workshops (2021) Shemakes (2022)

Circular Economy
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Models and frameworks
Source :https://blog.sendle.com/guide-to-circular-economy

Sustainable Design
Decisions
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“All of our research is based on an estimation that
decisions made at the design stage are responsible for
approximately EIGHTY percent of a product’s
environmental and economic costs (Graedel et al. 1995)."
THE TEN, Centre for Circular Design

Circular Design Frameworks
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Circular Design Speeds, MFF, 2019
Service Shirt, Earley, 2018
Textile Toolbox, MFF, 2015

Circular Design Frameworks
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Materials, Models and Mindsets
Materials
Circularity through
material & process
innovation
Models
Rethinking biological/technical
systems & contexts
Mindsets
Changing industry, community
& individual perception &
behaviour
“What customers do with their
products and clothing is important –
so we need to think about new oﬀers
in more holistic ways for the future.”
(Earley et al., 2016)
Earley et al, 2016

Wool within CCD and beyond
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CCD researchers, designers and makers, working with wool
CCD:
• Dr. Cathryn Hall – Design for Recycling
• Dr. Laetita Forst – Bio-layer
• Sanne Visser – Human Hair vs. Wool
• Prof. Rebecca Earley – No Wash Top
• Emmeline Child – Wool Scarf & Jacket
• Dr Bridget Harvey – repair with wool
• Prof. Kate Goldsworthy – laser cutting wool
MA students:
• Justine Lee
• Fiona Daly
• Sauma Singh
Mechanical Recycling
Use Phase
Post-Consumer Waste
Chemical Recycling
Repair
Laundry Resale
ReMake

Design for Recycling
(2021)
Cathryn Anneka Hall
PhD Research
This yarn was developed as part of Cathryn
Anneka Hall’s doctoral research. Exploring the
mechanical wool recycling industry, the research
focused on the spectrum of wool blends that are
processed in this system, including acrylic which is
commonly combined with wool in knitted products.
While acrylic fibres are a problem for wool
recycling, they are a plentiful resource. Therefore,
the recycled yarns produced were designed from
these problematic recycled acrylic fibres whilst
also being designed to re-enter the wool recycling
system that they came from at a higher value.

Bio-layer
Laetitia Forst, MaDe workshop
outcome
This material uses one of
assembly-for-disassembly techniques produced
in the PhD thesis on Textile Design for Disassembly.
It uses felting to bring together a polyester lining,
an insulation layer of wool, and a decorative top
layer of bio-cellulose, in a way that allows for
future disassembly and recycling or
biodegradation of each layer. The material is an
exploration of dissociated material temporalities,
with each layer belonging to different timeframes
and cycles for their production and decay. They
come together for the material’s lifespan to offer
distinct and complementary qualities.

No Wash Top (2002)
Rebecca Earley & Kate Fletcher
AHRC 5Ways Project
This merino wool jumper was made in response to
research carried out in the 5ways project, which
explored how designers could reduce the footprint
of clothing. The idea here was to made a garment
that didn’t need to be washed very often. Merino
wool was chosen as it has natural anti-bacterial
qualities in the fibre. The neck and armholes were
cut away to reduce sweat and dirt contamination.
Waste plastic was used to create a wipe clean
front and cuff area.

Emmeline Child for Emmeline 4 Re
Emmeline 4 Re utilised wool from the Salvation
Army Trading Company. By upcycling
post-consumer textile waste that couldn’t be
re-sold in its whole product form, less wool would
be diverted to overseas destinations where wool is
less in demand due to the warmer climates. Wool
was repurposed as it is a high-quality abundant
material source produced in many colours and
patterns.
This wool scarf was the best seller for Emmeline 4
Re and sold in TOPSHOP as well as boutiques
around the UK and Europe.
Wool Scarf and Jacket (2007)

A Jumper to Lend; A Jumper to
Mend (2014)
Bridget Harvey
The very visible mends in this jumper highlight
practiced wardrobe maintenance, visibly wrought
through the colours and textures of the fixing yarn. This
act brought the jumper far from its neutral garment
origins and further from the coat of a sheep. As a
repaired woolen garment, it is warm, cosy and
comfortable, totally wearable and fit for purpose.
Reflecting on the importance of mono-materiality for
post-user recycling, this jumper proposes that we think
about other layers of mono-materiality – what are the
essences of wool? Where does it come from and how?
What are its personality traits and quirks? What else do
we use it for? Wool is heavily processed before
fabrication. Can the form of the jumper be unmade;
can the wool be repaired back to its raw form?
A conceptual repair kit and a factual repair kit facilitate
and inform remaking and unmaking processes, and
the affect of repair on the material future of the
garment.

Resurfaced (2007)
Kate Goldsworthy
Mixed materials samples.
Laser finishing on shoddy felt,
using polyester nonwoven
material on top of traditional
recycled wool and mixed fibre
materials.
Ever & Again: Rethinking
Recycled Textiles Project,
AHRC
(Earley 2005-2009)

Knitted History (2021)
Justine Lee
MA Textile Design, Chelsea College
Native Wools show the diversity and potential of
yarns from British sheep. My final piece, “Knitted
History”, combines the use of these yarns with a
quilted knitting technique and has a border of
symbols that represent key stages in the history of
British Wool. These key stages trace the
development of different sheep breeds and their
fleeces from the Middle Ages. This piece is inspired
by my experience in the fashion industry as a
knitwear designer which opened my eyes to the
unpopularity of sustainable fibers. The use of British
wool as a sustainable fiber can promote socially
innovative partnerships between the British
farming and fashion industries and offers a low
carbon, minimal waste, 100% recyclable, and
ethically conscious alternative to the current fast
fashion yarns.
https://graduateshowcase.arts.ac.uk/projects/296089/cover

North Atlantic Native
Wool Fibreshed (2019)
Fiona Daly
MA Textile Design, Chelsea College
North Atlantic Native Wool Fibreshed: Making a
local, circular textile supply chain to create a low
impact, sustainable cloth while also adding value
and giving purpose to the wools of native Northern
European Short-Tailed (NEST) sheep breeds.
Initially, Fiona focused on the breeds of Villsau
(Norway), Faroe (Faroe Islands) North Ronaldsay,
Hebridean (Scotland) and Manx Loaghtan (Isle of
Man). Her concerns are their under value and
under use in local wool production and their status
as rarebreeds. Keen to explore if exploiting their
purpose as wool producers could save them from
the rarebreed list, she believes it is crucial to
conserve these breeds for genetic diversity and
ultimately, biodiversity.
www.fionadalytextiles.com

Rani & Reine (2021)
Saumya Singh
MA Biodesign, CSM
From Rani & Reine:
“Creating completely natural fibre textiles and taking
steps to re-establish a demand for local indigenous
wool is a momentous step forward in the continuing
evolution of heritage craft in Himachal Pradesh.”
“The sheep that produce the wool we use in our garments
and homewares are grazed in the mountains surrounding
the Kullu Valley where our artisans live, by semi nomadic
shepherds that belong to traditional pastoralist
communities.
We create our textiles out of wool from two different
breeds of sheep:
1. Gaddi, a local Himalayan Desi sheep breed. Desi means
local or indigenous to India. We use this longer fibre wool
in garments that need to be more durable, like socks and
legwarmers.
and
2. Gaddi sheep that have been crossbred with fine wool
sheep breeds such as merino and rambouillet. We use this
shorter and softer fibre wool for our next-to-skin
garments.”
https://www.raniandreine.com/pages/wool_a_love_story

Understanding the
Worth of Wool (2019)
Prof. Rebecca Earley and Fiona Daly
A Pre-Study Exploring Current Revalorization
Approaches to Wool Fleeces
“In this short report the authors explore current
literature and practice examples around the
revalorization of wool, through a range of design
and technology approaches, from across
Europe. Taking examples from academic and
industry research, case studies are presented
within a framework of use-typologies. These
include luxury fashion, luxury interiors,
construction, packaging, energy, wellbeing and
agriculture. These typologies are cross-related
with a range of processing and finishing
approaches. The aim of the report is to create a
broad contextual framework for the Latxa wool
project partners to use to make proposals for
further investigation.”
Unpublished: Earley, Daly, 2019

UK Wool - Context
shemakes.eu | 118
• Long history UK wool trade & industry
• 120 different breeds of sheep
• Currently declining industry
• Competition from other materials
• Lack of innovation in sector
• other…
• High quality properties, lots of
opportunities
• Regenerative agricultural benefits in
terms of Net Zero Targets

UK Wool – Context
shemakes.eu | 119
Industry
Iinouiio
Woolcool
Solid Wool
Zoe Fletcher, The Woollist
Fibreshed
Research

UK Wool - Industry
Doppelhaus / Cloudwool
Cloudwool is a natural innovation made using 100% local wool
that would normally go to waste. This noble, natural fibre is
bonded with nonwoven technology to create a super soft and
durable fabric that doesn’t cost the earth.
Highlighted case study

UK Wool - Research
Zoe Fletcher
The Woolist grew from a need to find out
more about native British wool fibres,
and understand more about the
desirable qualities they possess and how
we can promote local fibres and local
making.
A four year research project followed,
with the aim of documenting and
re-designing the way knitwear designers
and textile designers could find out
about the different qualities that each
breed of the 72 purebred British sheep
possess, to fulfil their needs to design
aesthetically pleasing yet functional
garments, accessories and products.
https://thewoolist.co.uk/
Highlighted case study

UK Wool Organisations
shemakes.eu | 122
Organisations and national corporations
Campaign for Wool
Circular Economy Innovation Network Fibreshed UK
British Wool

Circular Wool and Design Research
shemakes.eu | 123
What is the role of design research within creating
a circular wool industry for the UK?
Who is within the circular wool design research
team? Which stakeholders do we work with? Who
is missing?
Join us:
• Circular Wool UK Symposium 15 June 2022, 10:00-12:30 GMT [online]
• Circular Design Stakeholders Workshop, DRS Bilbao, Thursday 30 June 2022 [hybrid]
• World Circular Textiles Day 2050 (Knowledge Hub), by 8 October 2022 [online]

Thank you
@centreforcirculardesign
https://www.circulardesign.org
Contact:
s.visser@chelsea.arts.ac.uk
r.l.earley@chelsea.arts.ac.uk

European Wool Day, EWE foundation
WOOL ecosystem
Dóra Jamniczky-Kaszás - Alberto Costa
ewe.network
European Wool
Exchange

Shemakes participation to European Wool Day
shemakes.eu | 126
Decode Fab Lab

AMONG OTHER INITIATIVES TO CONNECT WITH
shemakes.eu | 127
International Wool
Textile Organisation
Association of
European Wool
Campaign
endeavour
Fibershed

shemakes.eu | 128
From global
to local
Life-Cycle
Thinking
Cultural
Heritage
Open Source
Hands-on and
DIY
15.00 - 17.00
Wool Ecosystems by shemakes Labs and external speakers
17.00 - 19.00
Mapping by co-creation
AGENDA

shemakes.eu | 129
Hybrid events
Register >> https://www.shemakes.eu/woolmondays
Follow our FB page

shemakes.eu | 130
From global
to local
Life-Cycle
Thinking
Cultural
Heritage
Open Source
Hands-on and
DIY
DRAFT GROUPS
1) Spain and Southern Europe, by Anastasia, Olivia and Nuria
2) Romanian and Eastern Europe, by Elvys and Andrea
3) Austrian and Central Europe, by Silvia and Petra
4) Iceland, UK and Northern Europe by Margret and Sanne
5) Beyond Europe by Anastasia
Local groups: Amsterdam, Geneva, Brussel
WOOL ECOSYSTEMS MAPPING BY CO-CREATION
GO ON MIRO
1) Intro + Melting pot - Group making (15mn)
2) Co-creation on breaking out rooms (1h)
Look at the map - deﬁne your perimeter - create your exploration zone
a) Tour of participants (10mn)
b) Map initiatives, tell stories, identiﬁes synergies and challenges (20mn)
c)) Next steps (10mn)
3) Sharing and next steps (45mn) - emotional networking

shemakes.eu | 131
From global
to local
Life-Cycle
Thinking
Cultural
Heritage
Open Source
Hands-on and
DIY
WHAT NEXT?
● Share FACTS and local explorations on
Miro and through social media with
#woolmondays, @shemakes
● Join us for the two next events >>
● Get prepared. Look at documentations:
the general handbook and the booklet for
labs
● Contribute to the documentation - join us
by mail and tell us what you are doing

Thank you
@shemakes_eu
https://www.shemakes.eu
/woolmondays
Contact: shemakes@fablabbcn.org

WOOL MONDAYS 1 -Wool Ecosystems

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