5. 3discovertnt.com
Welcome
If you’re visiting Trinidad & Tobago (T&T), or planning
to, you’ve made a good decision – congratulations!
Discover Trinidad & Tobago is here to help you
make the most of a visit, no matter what your priority is –
baking on a picture-perfect beach, diving in clear blue water,
experiencing the frenzy of Carnival, or patiently watching the
turtles nesting on the coast.
Our two islands are very different in character. Tobago is
quiet, peaceful, blessed with wonderful beaches and waters;
Trinidad is larger, faster-paced, more industrialised, festive
and celebratory. Two different experiences to immerse
yourself in. Or of course you can have both.
How to use this guide
p The first section of Discover gives you the hard facts
you’ll need to understand our country and to get
around (pages 6-31)
p The second section contains snapshots of some aspects of national life – arts and entertainment,
shopping, sport, the environment (pages 32–49)
p The third section zooms in on Trinidad, to help you decide where to stay, how to navigate the
island’s food and restaurants, the things to see and places to visit, the Carnival, the beaches, and
after-dark entertainment and diversions (pages 50–87)
p The fourth section does the same for Tobago (pages 88–115)
p At the back of the book you’ll find detailed maps of
both islands and the main urban centres, showing the
location of places mentioned in the text (pages 116–
132), and an index to help you navigate the magazine
About Discover
p Published regularly since 1991, Discover Trinidad
& Tobago appears towards the end of each year, in
time to debut at the annual WorldTravelMarket in
London
p It is distributed free to dozens of local outlets in both
islands, and is used for tourism marketing
p It is available online at discovertnt.com, where you’ll
also find additional material and updates to the
current issue
p You can also follow us on Facebook at facebook.
com/discovertnt and Twitter @meppublishers
Pinkpouitreesatsunrise
StePhenJayPhotograPhy
Standards & feedback
p The tourism authorities run an annual
inspection programme called Trinidad &
Tobago Tourism Industry Certification
(TTTIC) (see tdc.co.tt/p_tttic.htm). A
special TTTIC logo is used to identify
approved hotels and tourism operators
p Advertising in Discover is open to
anybody, but the publication of an
advertisement does not imply editorial
endorsement, quality assurance, or
TTTIC approval
p Every effort is made to ensure that
information is correct at press time. But
things change swiftly, so we can make no
guarantees about ongoing accuracy
6.
7. Experience the amazing sights and sounds of Trinidad’s
Carnival or let the beauty of Tobago’s romance and serenity
leave you breathless. It all happens right here…
Email: Trinidad: info@tdc.co.tt; Tobago: contact@visittobago.gov.tt
Germany: asponer@aviareps.com; United States: info@cam-pr.com
Canada: rkieda@aviareps.com; United Kingdom: info@amgltd.biz
Scandinavia: info@spirit-company.dk; India: huzan.fraser@gmail.com
Visit us @www.gotrinidadandtobago.com • Contact us at: (868) 675 7034/669 5196
Email: Trinidad: info@tdc.co.tt; Tobago: contact@visittobago.gov.tt
Germany: asponer@aviareps.com; United States: info@cam-pr.com
Canada: rkieda@aviareps.com; United Kingdom: info@amgltd.biz
Scandinavia: info@spirit-company.dk; India: huzan.fraser@gmail.com
Visit us @www.gotrinidadandtobago.com • Contact us at: (868) 675 7034/669 5196
and my
dream wedding...
And swam in the
waters of life...
Today I floated
over the streets...
8. 6
trinidad&tobago
How to get here
Scheduled carriers
p Aeropostal, American Airlines, Avior, British Airways,
Caribbean Airlines, Condor, Continental, Copa, LIAT,
Monarch, Surinam Airways, Virgin Atlantic
p Check travel agents for current charter flights
TIP: Fly carbon neutral: most airlines allow you to offset carbon dioxide
emissions from your flight
Major international gateways
p Miami, Ft. Lauderdale, New York, Toronto, London
Airports
p Trinidad: Piarco International Airport (27km/17 miles from
Port of Spain)
p Tobago: ANR Robinson International Airport (10km/7 miles
from Scarborough)
entering t&t
p You will need to show a passport valid for three
months beyond your intended stay
p Non-residents must have documentation for
return or onward travel and a local address
p Visas are generally not required for visits up to
30 days, but double-check with your airline
or travel agent before leaving
Arriving by air
Unless you are being met privately, take an
authorised taxi from the airport to your
destination, confirming the fare in advance
(a list of fares is displayed in the arrivals
area). If in doubt, check the taxi dispatcher.
Authorised private taxis have licence plates
beginning with “H” (for “Hire”), and are
not metered.
Arriving by sea (yachts & sailing boats)
p Arriving yachts should have a clearance certificate from the last port of call, and the vessel’s
registration certificate (or authorisation for use)
p In Trinidad, check in with Customs & Immigration at CrewsInn in Chaguaramas
p In Tobago, check in with Customs & Immigration in Scarborough or Charlotteville
p Chaguaramas in Trinidad is the hub of yachting activity, with sheltered anchorage maintained by the
Yachting Association and strings of maintenance and repair yards, marinas and essential services
p There are no official anchorage sites in Tobago, but Mount Irvine Bay, Grafton Beach, Store Bay and
Englishman’s Bay are popular. On the southeast coast, Anse Bateau is a good anchorage and fuelling point
Cruise ships
p Several cruise lines visit
Trinidad & Tobago;
most depart from Miami
between November and
April
p They include Fred Olsen,
Hapag-Lloyd, Holland
America, Oceania, P&O,
Princess, Saga Travel,
Seabourn, Sea Dream,
Silversea and Thomson
9. 7discovertnt.com
Travel tips
Money matters
p Money: ABMs (ATMs) and credit/debit cards are routinely
used
p Currency: Trinidad & Tobago dollar (TT$); US$1=
approximately TT$6.4 (floating exchange rate)
p Taxes: 10% room tax + 10% service at hotels; 15% VAT
(value added tax) on most goods and services
Media
p Press: there are three daily national newspapers (Express,
Guardian and Newsday), several weeklies and one tri-weekly;
Tobago is served by the Tobago News
p Radio: over 30 FM stations, two AM stations
p Television: 12 local stations (some are available only via
cable or on one island); cable and satellite; most hotels and
guesthouses provide foreign cable channels
Driving
p Driving is on the left. Seatbelts are required by law
p Speed limits: Trinidad 80kph (50mph) on highways, 55kph
(34mph) in settled areas; Tobago 50kph (32mph)
p Driving permits: visitors can drive for up to 90 days on a
valid foreign/international licence
Utilities
p Electricity: 115v/230v, 60Hz
p Water: tap water is safe to drink (boil to be doubly sure);
bottled water is widely available
p Mail: TTPost operates the national mail service; FedEx,
DHL, UPS and others provide courier service
Land of the
hummingbird
Trinidad’s Amerindian name
was Iere, which translates as
“land of the hummingbird”.
Or maybe it simply meant
“island”. Whichever it is,
more than 20 species of these
magnificent tiny birds are
found in Trinidad.
Telecommunications
p Country phone code: 868
p Landline telephones: provided by Telecommunications
Services of Trinidad & Tobago (TSTT) and FLOW. Prepaid
international phone cards are available
p Mobile telephones: bmobile (TSTT) and Digicel operate
on GSM networks; prepaid SIM cards are available for
unlocked phones
neaL youn
g
Public wi-fi
p In Trinidad, Piarco Airport
and Rituals coffee shops
provide public wi-fi
p TSTT’s BZone offers
4G wi-fi hotspots at the
Chaguaramas Boardwalk,
Maracas Bay, the Trinidad
Ferry Terminal, Ariapita
Avenue, the Cruise Ship
Complex, West Mall,
Grand Bazaar, Long
Circular Mall, Trincity
Mall and Gulf City Mall
p In Tobago, Bzone offers
wi-fi at the Ferry Terminal,
Store Bay, Pigeon Point,
and Gulf City Mall
(Lowlands)
10. 8
trinidad&tobago
Out and about
p There are basically five ways of getting around in Trinidad & Tobago: private taxis; public taxis
and maxi-taxis (both plying specific routes); buses; a rented car; or with a tour operator
p Bicycles are hardly ever used except for sports: roads are generally unsafe for cyclists
p There are ferries between Trinidad and Tobago, and between Port of Spain and San Fernando
p 20-minute flights between Trinidad and Tobago operate several times a day
Private taxis
p Available at the airports
and the larger hotels;
otherwise summoned by
phone
Public taxis
p “Route taxis” (cars registered as taxis, bearing “H” plates)
work specific routes, picking up and dropping off passengers
anywhere along the way
p They have designated stands in Port of Spain, San Fernando,
Chaguanas and other main towns
p Maxi-taxis (12- to 25-seat mini-buses) operate in the same
way, mostly connecting urban centres (e.g. Port of Spain to
San Fernando) or servicing suburbs (e.g. Port of Spain to
Chaguaramas, Diego Martin, Petit Valley, Maraval, St Ann’s,
Cascade)
p Maxi-taxis carry brightly-coloured bands according to their area:
Black: San Fernando–Princes Town, with connection to
Mayaro
Blue: Tobago
Brown: San Fernando–La Romaine–Siparia–Point Fortin
Green: Port of Spain (City Gate)–Curepe–Chaguanas
(lower Southern Main Road southbound; Eleanor Street
northbound)–San Fernando (King’s Wharf)
Red: Port of Spain–Arima, connections to Blanchisseuse, and
to Matelot via Sangre Grande
Yellow: Port of Spain–Diego Martin–Chaguaramas
Buses
p Buses operate from Port
of Spain (City Gate) to
most towns, sometimes
on an “express” basis, and
from hubs in Chaguanas,
San Fernando (King’s
Wharf) and Scarborough
(Sangster’s Hill)
p Check the Public
Transport Service
Corporation (PTSC)
at ptsc.co.tt for current
schedules and fares
Car rentals &
tour operators
Local and international rental
companies operate in both
islands and at both airports
See Where to go, what to see
under both Tobago and
Trinidad, or check the Yellow
Pages for good places to start.
Bush Bath
Suffering from a string of colds,
minor accidents and general bad
luck? You may be told to take
a bush bath, which is a special
brew of potent herbs and plants
(depending on what’s wrong
with you) steeped in water. It is
said to speed your recovery, wash
off the “maljo” (bad luck, curses,
whatever), and bring good fortune.
11. 9discovertnt.com
Ferries
Trinidad/Tobago
p Daily inter-island car and passenger ferry service between Port of Spain and Scarborough is
operated by the Port Authority of Trinidad & Tobago (patnt.com)
p The T&T Express and T&T Spirit do the trip in about two and a half hours each way
p Fares: TT$100 return; children 3–11 years half price; children under three and senior citizens (65
and over) travel free (but must present ID)
p Tickets can be bought from the ferry terminals, and from some TT Post offices and travel agencies
p Passenger vehicle charge is TT$600
p You can find the ferry schedule at ttitferry.com
Port of Spain/San Fernando
p The ferry water taxi service between Trinidad’s two cities is operated by the National
Infrastructure Development Company (nidco.co.tt)
p The trip takes about 45 minutes each way
p TT$15 one-way (at press time – check website for current rates). Infants under the age of one
travel free; senior citizens (65 and over) travel free on off-peak sailings
Trinidad/Venezuela
p Pier 1 in Chaguaramas operates a weekly ferry on Wednesdays
to Venezuela for TT$1,380 round-trip plus departure tax. Call
634-4426 for information
Airbridge
p Caribbean Airlines operates several flights a day between
Trinidad and Tobago (625-7200, caribbean-airlines.com)
p Both airports have separate departure/arrival areas for
airbridge passengers
The ferry T&T Spirit arrives in Scarborough
.affordableluxuryapartments-tobago.com
our national flag
Red (for fire, vitality of the
sun); white (for water, purity
and the power of the ocean);
black (for the earth, one people
united on the islands’ soil).
12. 10
trinidad&tobago
Safety
Like much of the planet, there is crime in Trinidad & Tobago, and driving habits can be … eccentric.
Some practical tips:
On the road
p Drive with care; practise defensive driving
p Always lock your vehicle
p If you suspect you are being followed, raise an alarm and head to the nearest police station
p Do not leave car windows down when stopping, especially at night
Property
p Leave valuables (jewellery, money, passports, credit cards, etc.) at home or well concealed
p Lock your room/house door
p Keep windows closed at night and when you go out
p Do not wear extravagant jewellery
p Do not leave handbags or wallets lying around
p Do not leave laptop computers or other valuables in your car
p Do not use an ABM if you sense someone suspicious nearby; if your card gets stuck, call the bank
immediately
Personal security
p Move in company whenever possible
p Always be aware of your surroundings
p Do not venture into deserted or unfamiliar areas alone
p Do not engage in any altercations with strangers
emergencies
p Ambulance (public hospitals): 811
p EMS (emergency medical services):
624-4343 (north Trinidad), 653-
4343 (south/central Trinidad),
639-4444 (Tobago)
p Hyperbaric medical facility
(decompression chamber,
Roxborough, Tobago): 660-4369
p Fire: 990
p Office of Disaster Preparedness:
640-1285 (Trinidad), 660-7489
(Tobago)
p Police: in Trinidad, 999 or 555; in
Tobago, 639-2520 or 639-5590
Contacts
p Division of Tourism, Tobago: 639-2125,
visittobago.gov.tt
p Immigration Division: 623-6569 (Trinidad),
639-2681 (Tobago), nationalsecurity.gov.tt
(click on Divisions and Agencies)
p Tobago House of Assembly: 639-3421,
tha.gov.tt
p Tourism Development Company: 675-7034,
tdc.co.tt, gotrinidadandtobago.com
p Tourist information offices:
639-0509 (ANR Robinson Airport,
Tobago); 635-0934 (Cruise Ship Complex,
Tobago); 669-5196 (Piarco Airport,
Trinidad)
p Trinidad & Tobago government online:
ttconnect.gov.tt
13. 11discovertnt.com
T&T in a nutshell
Capital
p National capital: Port of Spain
p Tobago capital: Scarborough
Climate
p Tropical
p Dry season from January to May; wet season from June to
December
p The islands are just south of the main hurricane belt
p Temperature range: 72–95°F (22–35°C); average 83°F (29°C)
Highest points
p Trinidad: El Cerro del Aripo (940m/3,085ft)
p Tobago: Main Ridge (549m/1,860ft)
Location & coordinates
p 11°N, 61°W
p Tobago and Trinidad are 33km (21 miles) apart
p Trinidad is 10km (7 miles) from Venezuela at the nearest
point
Size
p Trinidad: 4,828km2 (1,864
sq miles); 105 x 80km (65
x 50 miles)
p Tobago: 300km2 (116 sq
miles); 48 x 16km (30 x 10
miles)
Time zone
p Atlantic Standard Time
year-round (GMT/UTC
-4, EST +1)
Government
p Trinidad & Tobago is a parliamentary democracy;
elections have been held regularly since self-government in
1956
p President: George Maxwell Richards
p Prime Minister: Kamla Persad-Bissessar
p Ruling party: the People’s Partnership (a four-party
coalition)
p Official opposition party: People’s National Movement
p Opposition leader: Dr Keith Rowley
Official
language
p English
Population
p 1.2 million (2010 census)
p 40% are of Indian descent,
37.5% of African descent,
21.7% mixed
p 26% are Roman Catholic,
31.6% are Christians of
other denominations
(including Anglican), 22.5%
are Hindu, 5.8% are Muslim
p Port of Spain has a
population of 45,000;
metropolitan areas
combined nearly 270,000
people; Tobago has a
population of 50,000
(Scarborough 17,000
people)
our national anthem
Forged from the love of liberty in the fires of hope and prayer
With boundless faith in our destiny we solemnly declare:
Side by side we stand, islands of the blue Caribbean Sea
This, our native land, we pledge our lives to thee.
Here every creed and race finds an equal place, and may God
bless our Nation (x2)
Patrick Castagne, 1962
14. 12
trinidad&tobago
CourteSy heather he
adLey
World-class Trinbagonians
p AtoBoldon:four-time
Olympicmedallist(2silver,2
bronzefor100mand200m,
1996and2000),and200m
WorldChampionshipgold
medallist(1997).Afrequent
athleticscommentatorforthe
USnetwork,NBC
p GeorgeBovellIII:our
firstOlympicmedallistin
swimming:bronzein200m
individualmedley(2004)
p Janelle“Penny”
Commissiong:MissUniverse
1977,thefirstblackwomanto
winthetitle
p HaselyCrawford:ourfirst
Olympicgoldmedallist,
winningthemen’s100m(1976)
p WendyFitzwilliam:Miss
Universe1998(thesecond
blackwomantowinthetitle)
p HeatherHeadley:Trinidad-
bornTonyAward-andGrammy-
winningsingerandactress(Aida,
TheBodyguard)
p GeoffreyHolder:Trinidad-
born,TonyAwardwinner
(1975),theatreandfilmactor,
dancer,painter,director,and
designer.Bestknownonfilmfor
rolesinDr.Dolittle(1967)and
Annie(1982)
p CLRJames(1901–1989):
prolificwriter,historian,cultural
andpoliticalfigure,leadingvoice
inthePan-Africanistmovement
p GiselleLaRonde:MissWorld
1986(beatingAmericanactress
HalleBerryintosixthplace)
p BrianLara:multiplerecord-
breakingcricketerwithtwo
Testrecords(375notoutin
1994and400notoutin2004);
highestfirstclassscore(501not
out,1994);leadingrunscorerin
Testcricket
p PeterMinshall:Carnival
designer,multiplewinnerof
BandoftheYeartitles,winner
ofT&T’sfirstEmmyAwardfor
costuming(openingceremony,
2002WinterOlympics)
p NickiMinaj:Trinidad-born,
US-basedPlatinumhip-hop
star.Theonlyartisttohaveseven
singlesontheBillboardHot100
atthesametime,andthefirst
femaleartisttobeincludedin
MTV’sAnnualHottestMCList
p VS(SirVidia)Naipaul:
Trinidad-bornwriter,knighted
(1990),NobelPrizefor
Literature(2000)
p ClaudeNoel:from
Roxborough,Tobago,ourfirst
boxingWorldChampion(WBA
WorldLightweighttitle,1981)
p BillyOcean:bornLeslie
CharlesinTrinidad,
internationalpopstarwithhits
like“CaribbeanQueen”(1984)
p ArthurNRRobinson:former
PresidentandPrimeMinister,
launchedUNGeneralAssembly
resolutiontoestablishthe
InternationalCriminalCourt
p KeshornWalcott:oursecond
Olympicgoldmedallist(javelin
2012),theyoungesteverwinner
ofthateventandthefirstnon-
Europeantowinitin60years
p DrEricWilliams(1911–81):
Caribbeanhistorianandour
firstChiefMinisterandPrime
Minister,servingfrom1956
untilhisdeathin1981
p DwightYorke:Tobago-born
footballstarandleadingstriker
(ManchesterUnited,Aston
Villa).AkeyplayerinTrinidad&
Tobago’sWorldCupcampaign
in2006–hecaptainedthe
nationalteamtoanimpressive
debutattheWorldCupfinals
inGermany(T&Twasthe
smallestcountryevertoqualify)
our coat of arms
Features the national birds
– scarlet ibis (Trinidad) and
cocrico (Tobago) – and the
hummingbird; the three
ships of Columbus and the
peaks of the Trinity Hills; the
fruited coconut palm native
to Tobago; and the national
motto, “Together we aspire,
together we achieve”.
15. 13discovertnt.com
How did we get here?
Pre-Columbian era
Both islands are intermittently joined to South America; both are settled by Amerindians moving north from the
South American coast from around 5000 BC.
Separate colonies
Trinidad
1498 Christopher Columbus lands in Trinidad
on 31 July, claims the island for Spain and
names it after the Holy Trinity
1757 Port of Spain becomes Trinidad’s capital
1797 Trinidad has been a neglected Spanish
colony for nearly 300 years; the
Amerindians have been decimated; now
French Catholic planters have started to
arrive, African slaves are being imported,
and swift development is under way
1797 Trinidad is captured by the British
1838 The end of slavery in the British empire;
labour recruited from other islands, China,
Portugal, Lebanon, Syria
1845 Britain starts importing indentured labourers
from India – 144,000 arrive by 1917
1857 The first oil well drilled near the Pitch Lake
1858 The British start trying to suppress Carnival
Tobago
1498 Leaving the Gulf of Paria, Columbus sights
Tobago and names it Magdalena
1627 European powers (and pirates) will
squabble over Tobago till the late 18th
century
1768 First Assembly established; Scarborough
becomes the capital
1776 First forest reserve in the western
hemisphere is designated in Tobago
1781 French seize Tobago and make it a sugar
colony
1814 Tobago ceded to Britain under Treaty of
Paris
1838 The end of slavery in the British empire
1884 The sugar industry collapses
1889 Tobago comes under Trinidad control; its
Assembly is disbanded
one nation
1898 Tobago is merged with
Trinidad as one country
1908 Commercial oil
production begins in
Trinidad
1912 First commercial calypso
recording (New York)
1925 The first national
elections (limited
franchise)
1930s The first steelpans are
evolving
1940 National airline BWIA
commences operations
1956 Internal self-government
1960 Trinidad campus
of University of the
West Indies (UWI)
established
1962 Independence from
Britain
1963 Hurricane Flora
devastates Tobago
1970 “Black Power” uprising
in Trinidad
1976 T&T becomes a
republic within the
Commonwealth
1980 Tobago House of
Assembly restored
1990 Unsuccessful coup
attempt by Afro-
Islamist group
Jamaat al Muslimeen
2007 Caribbean Airlines
replaces BWIA as
national carrier (buys
Air Jamaica in 2010)
2010 New coalition
government under
first female Prime
Minister
16. 14
trinidad&tobago
What’s going on?
Festivals and events 2013
Note: under each month, events are listed in the following order and colour coded: (a) national events with dates,
(b) national events with no dates, (c) Tobago events with or without dates, (d) Trinidad events with or without dates.
Public holidays are in red
January
p 1: New Year’s Day (public holiday)
p Carnival season begins
p Sailing season begins
p Tobago: harvest festivals in
Pembroke, Parlatuvier, Spring
Garden, Plymouth
p Tobago: Carnival Caravan
February
p Carnival countdown begins
p 10: Chinese New Year (year of the
snake)
p 11–12: Carnival Monday and
Tuesday
p Carnival cool-downs
p Tobago: harvest festivals in Hope,
Adelphi, Buccoo, Franklyn, Bon
Accord
p Tobago: Carnival Regatta
p Trinidad: Chutney Soca Monarch
finals
p Trinidad, 8: Soca Monarch finals
p Trinidad, 9: Panorama finals
p Trinidad, 10: Dimanche Gras
Carnival in tobago
Carnival frenzy is centred on Trinidad: Tobago
enjoys a more laid-back season focusing
on theatrical and folk elements. There’s
traditional “mud mas”, and “pretty mas”
with 30-odd costumed bands. Staple events:
Carnival Caravan, Soca Spree, Junior Carnival
(Roxborough), Soca Under the Samaan Tree,
Tobago House of Assembly’s Interdepartmental
Queen and Calypso Show, Roxborough Afro
Queen, Windward Calypso Show.
ediSonBoodooSingh
17. 15discovertnt.com
our national
flower
The chaconia (“wild poinsettia”
or “pride of Trinidad &
Tobago”), a flaming red forest
flower. There is a push to have
the double chaconia declared
the national flower as it is
unique to Trinidad and is a more
spectacular flower than the
single bract blossom. In fact, all
cultivations (worldwide) of the
double chaconia can be traced
back to one single plant which
was discovered alongside the
Blanchisseuse road in 1957.
carolramjohn
Phagwa (holi)
The Hindu spring festival features traditional
folksongs (chowtals), dholak drums, and
liberal splashings of the colourful vegetable
dyes known as abir (or abeer). The Children’s
Phagwa celebration at Tunapuna Hindu School
is especially popular.
March
p Turtle nesting season begins
p 29: Good Friday (public holiday)
p 30: Spiritual Shouter Baptist Liberation Day (public
holiday)
p 31: Easter Sunday
p Tobago: harvest festivals in Mount St George, Mason Hall,
Roxborough, Bon Accord
p Tobago, 24: Missionary Love Feast in Moriah
p Tobago: International Game Fishing Tournament
p Trinidad & Tobago Golf Open
p Trinidad, 16: Jazz Artists on the Greens (St Augustine)
p Trinidad, 27: Phagwa (Holi)
Shouters
The Spiritual Shouter Baptists draw on
both African and Christian spiritual
traditions. They were banned for 34
years during the colonial era (perhaps
all that hand-clapping, bell-ringing,
drum-beating and chanting unnerved
the authorities). Liberation Day on 30
March commemorates the lifting of the
ban in 1951.
ChriSanderSon
18. 16
trinidad&tobago
April
p 1: Easter Monday (public holiday)
p Tobago, 20–28: Tobago Jazz Experience
p Tobago: Harvest Festival in
Goodwood
p Trinidad: Pan in the 21st Century
p Trinidad, 25–28: Bocas Lit Fest, the
Trinidad & Tobago Literary Festival
(of which we are a proud sponsor)
p Trinidad, 30: Point Fortin Borough
Day, a full week of J’ouvert, mas, pan
and parties
easter
Apart from its religious significance, the long
Easter weekend involves hot cross buns,
horse racing at the Santa Rosa track in Arima
(Trinidad), and goat and crab races in Tobago
– Mount Pleasant on Monday, Buccoo on
Tuesday. Started almost 80 years ago, racing goats
was Tobago’s answer to the colonial tradition
of racing horses. There are stables for the goats,
trainers, live commentators, and jockeys who run
alongside their prized animals, whips in hand.
Cafémoka
Jazz
The Tobago Jazz Experience at Pigeon Point showcases calypso, soca,
chutney and Latin as well as jazz. Events are spread across the island. Previous
headliners have included Chaka Khan, Erykah Badu, Elton John, Stevie
Wonder, Mary J. Blige, Sting, George Benson and Diana Ross.
19. 17discovertnt.com
May
p 30: Indian Arrival Day (public holiday)
p Tobago Harvest Festivals in Whim, Delaford, Belle
Garden, Mason Hall
p Tobago: Rainbow Cup International Triathlon
p Tobago: Maypole Festival
p Trinidad, 8: La Divina Pastora (Siparia)
La divina Pastora
A Catholic feast and procession in which Hindus join.
The wooden statue of a black Virgin Mary, “the Divine
Shepherdess”, decorated with flowers and dressed in white, is
processed through the streets. Hindus revere the same statue as
Siparee Kay Mai.
a
riannthompson
indian arrival day
Marks the landing of the first Indian indentured workers
in Trinidad in 1845, after the abolition of slavery. Some
communities re-enact the event; outstanding members of
the Indo-Trinidadian community are recognised; there is
music and dancing. The Divali Nagar site in Chaguanas is a
focal point.
edisonboodoosingh
20. 18
June
p 3: Corpus Christi (public holiday)
p 19: Labour Day (public holiday): trade union marches
and rally in Fyzabad
p 29: St Peter’s Day Fisherman’s Festival
p Tobago: Harvest Festivals in Lambeau, Bloody Bay,
Roxborough
p Tobago: Junior Tobago Heritage Festival
p Tobago: Culinary Festival, Pigeon Point Heritage Park
p Trinidad: We Beat Festival (St James: vintage calypso,
talent shows, steelband music and parade)
p Trinidad: Ganga Dhaara River Festival, Blanchisseuse
(honours the descent of India’s sacred River Ganges)
p Trinidad, 12–15: Trade & Investment Convention
Corpus Christi
In honour of the
sacramental Eucharist,
Roman Catholics process
through Port of Spain in a
public profession of faith,
a practice dating back to
Spanish colonial days. For
many, it is a propitious day
for planting crops, since
rain is supposed to fall (and
often does).
trinidad&tobago
the tobago heritage festival
Aims to preserve the cultural traditions of Tobago.
Various villages present their own dances, food and
customs, including the “Old-time Tobago Wedding” in
Moriah, “Folk Tales and Superstitions” in Golden Lane,
and “Games We Used to Play”.
July
p 2014 Carnival band launches (July–September)
p Tobago: Charlotteville Fisherman’s Fest
p Tobago: Harvest Festivals in Castara and Black Rock
p Tobago: Prime Minister’s Charity Golf Classic
p Tobago: Underwater Carnival
p Tobago: Tobago Games
p Tobago, 12 July–1 August: Tobago Heritage Festival
p Tobago, 25–28: Great Fête Weekend (five-day beach party
at Store Bay, Pigeon Point and Mt Irvine)
p Trinidad: Tourism Park (displays, tours, live
entertainment, hosted by the Tourism Development
Company)
p Trinidad: Jazz on the Hill (San Fernando)
p Trinidad: J’ouvert in July
p Trinidad: Steelpan Music Festival
tobago
underwater
Carnival
A week-long dive festival,
with daily diving excursions,
underwater photography
seminars hosted by industry
professionals, marine biology,
equipment care, and fish
identification. Plus a Discover
Scuba initiative for kids and
non-divers.
22. trinidad&tobago
emancipation day
Marks the end of slavery in the British empire in 1838. The
Lidj Yasu Omowale Emancipation Village in Port of Spain
features lectures, exhibitions of African art, a trade exposition
and live entertainment. There is a street procession –
canboulay or kanbulé – through the streets of Port of Spain.
Independence Day 2012:
Trinidad & Tobago celebrated
50 years of Independence
20
August
p 1: Emancipation Day (public holiday)
p 8: Eid-ul-Fitr (public holiday)
p The Carib Great Race (84-mile speedboat race from Trinidad to Tobago, with big beach party)
p Best Village Competition begins (continues through November)
p 31: Independence Day (public holiday): marks Trinidad & Tobago’s independence from Britain in
1962: parade, national awards, fireworks, huge concerts, Cycling Classic
p Tobago: Castara Fisherman’s Fête
p Tobago: Harvest Festival in Speyside
p Tobago: Muhtadi International Drumming Festival (highlights different cultures around the call
of the drums)
p Trinidad: Arima Borough Day (J’ouvert, steel pan, calypso, parties for Arima’s anniversary)
p Trinidad: Osun River Festival (Orisa devotees celebrate the goddess of love, fertility and inland
waters)
p Trinidad: Santa Rosa Festival, Arima
Santa rosa
festival
Month-long Amerindian/
Catholic festival
commemorating the death of
St Rose de Lima, the Roman
Catholic patron saint of the
“new world”. It begins with the
firing of a cannon on
1 August, from Calvary Hill,
and ends after the feast day
of St Rose on 23 August. A
statue of Santa Rosa is carried
through the streets in a
procession of Trinidad’s Carib
peoples, including the Carib
Queen, and Roman Catholics.
23. eid-ul-fitr
The Muslim festival marking the end of the holy month of Ramadan (the ninth month of the
Muslim year, a period of prayer and fasting from dawn to dusk). Morning communal worship
in mosques and large open spaces; alms giving and Salat, when people visit family and friends
exchanging gifts and sweets. Sawine, a milk-based vermicelli dessert, is a holiday favourite.
chrisanderson
21discovertnt.com
24. 22
September
p 18 September–1 October: trinidad+tobago film festival
p 24: Republic Day (public holiday)
p Beacon Cycling Series
p Tobago: International Cycling Classic
p Tobago: Tobago Fest (parties, street parade, J’ouvert)
p Tobago: International Gospel Festival
p Trinidad: Maracas Open Water Swim Classic
p Trinidad: Derby Horse Racing Classic, Arima
p Trinidad: Panyard Sessions
p Trinidad: Parang season begins (continues through
December)
p Trinidad: San Fernando Jazz Festival
trinidad+tobago
film festival
The second largest film festival
in the region showcases
Caribbean and diaspora
drama, documentary, shorts
and animated films, with
workshops and educational
programmes.
republic day
In 1976 Trinidad & Tobago adopted a new republican constitution, under which a President
replaced the British Queen as head of state. Events include the Hyundai Open Water Classic
at Maracas Bay (Trinidad) and the Republic Day Cycling Challenge and 5K Fun Run.
trinidad&tobago
Horse racing in Arima
courtesyroberttaylor
25. October
p Taste T&T (grassroots festival with community cooking
competitions, plus an international event where the
country’s best chefs demonstrate T&T’s haute cuisine)
p National Tourism Week
p Tobago: Blue Food Festival, L’Anse Fourmi/Bloody Bay
recreation ground
p Tobago: Harvest Festival in Patience Hill
p Trinidad, 8–14: Amerindian Heritage Day (descendants
of First Peoples from around the region gather for a smoke
ceremony and street procession in Arima)
p Trinidad: Coast-2-Coast Adventure Race
p Trinidad: European Film Festival
p Trinidad: Ramleela Festival
p Trinidad: Steelpan & Jazz Festival
tobago’s Blue
food festival
Promotes local root crops,
especially dasheen, which can
turn varying shades of blue
and indigo when cooked. The
expression “blue food” has
become a catch-all name for
all root crops, including sweet
potato, cassava and yam. A
blue food cooking competition
is the highlight of the event.
Skilled cooks vie for prizes
for creating fine dishes from
dasheen: bread, cookies,
lasagne, even ice cream. There’s
a cultural show, a mini zoo, and
sometimes a queen show.
ramleela
In this impressive nine-day festival preceding Divali, parts of Hindu
scripture concerning the life of Lord Rama are re-enacted with
music and dance and an epic finale (see November). The best-
known celebrations are in Couva and Felicity, in central Trinidad.
Amerindian Heritage Day
cafémoka
23discovertnt.com
26. trinidad&tobago
November
p 3: Divali (public holiday)
p Best Village competition finals (villages compete in various aspects of folk tradition, including
food, storytelling, Carnival, dance, music, theatre, and the selection of a Best Village Queen, “La
Reine Rivé”)
p Tobago: Harvest Festivals in Plymouth, Black Rock, Les Coteaux, Moriah, Scarborough,
Montgomery
p Tobago: Scarborough Cup Golf Tournament
p Tobago: Christmas Caravan
p Trinidad: Pan is Beautiful
divali
Hindu festival that honours Mother Lakshmi (goddess of light, beauty,
riches and love) and celebrates the return of Lord Rama from exile.
Thousands of flickering deyas (tiny clay pots containing candle wicks) light
his way. In the nine days leading up to Divali, Trinidadians of all ethnicities
and religions visit the Divali Nagar site in Chaguanas: the lighting of deyas
at dusk is breathtaking.
Divali in Felicity
ariannthompson
24
27.
28. trinidad&tobago
December
p Shopping frenzy
p 25: Christmas Day (public holiday):
p 26: Boxing Day (public holiday)(horse racing, parties)
p Tobago: Flying Colours (kite flying festival,
Plymouth)
p Tobago: Assembly Day (the Tobago House of
Assembly celebrates and rewards local achievements;
exhibitions and a sports/recreation day)
p Trinidad: Paramin Parang Festival
p Trinidad: Hosay Festival and procession based on
historic Islamic events
Quick Tips
p All dates and events are subject to change
p Exact dates may not be set till nearer the event
Hosay drummers
stephenjayphotography
hosay
This originally Islamic
festival commemorates the
martyrdom of Hussain,
the Prophet Muhammad’s
grandson, and later murder
of his brother Hassan. The
lively three-night celebrations
culminate in a procession
of exquisitely made tadjahs
(fanciful replicas of the
tomb of Hussein) which are
carried through the streets to
the thunder of tassa drums;
and are eventually cast into
the sea. Popular venues for
watching and joining Hosay
activities are St James, Curepe,
Tunapuna, Couva, and Cedros.
Dates vary each year according
to the moon.
26
29.
30. 28
trinidad&tobago
Doing business
with T&T
z
kilian
Cocoa
Trinidad & Tobago’s
fine flavour cocoa is
some of the best in the
world. It won first prize
in the “spicy” category
in the prestigious Salut
du Chocolat in Paris in
2011. Entrepreneurs have
been working on creating
delicious, locally branded
chocolate from cocoa
grown right here.
The Trinidad &
Tobago economy is
one of the strongest
in the Caribbean, and the
most industrialised, thanks
to its own oil and natural gas.
Petrochemicals, LNG, steel and
various downstream industries
are clustered at the Point Lisas
industrialestateonthewestcoast,
and other estates further south
towardsLaBreaandPointFortin.
Methanol Holdings Trinidad, at
Point Lisas, is the world’s largest
producer of methanol from a
single plant.
The energy sector is crucial to
the national economy, but crude
oil production has been declining
inrecentyearsatanalarmingrate.
In addition, the country is losing
its major market for LNG, the
United States, which is steadily
turning into a net exporter rather
than an importer, thanks largely
to its shale gas. Not long ago,
Trinidad&Tobagowassupplying
70% of US LNG imports.
Trinidad & Tobago’s current
emphasis, therefore, is on
market diversification, refinery
upgrading, a new generation
of downstream industries, new
investment, and an aggressive
exploration programme to boost
crude oil production, in deep as
well as shallow water.
There is also enthusiasm for
becoming a knowledge-based
economy and for boosting
tourism. The Tamana InTech
Park taking shape at Wallerfield
in eastern Trinidad is envisaged
as a state-of-the-art science
and technology park targeting
established and emerging
companies in information &
communication technology
software development, high-
tech manufacturing, and agro-
processing. The state-owned
company eTecK (Evolving
TecKnologies) also manages
16 other more conventional
industrial parks.
Tourism has been hard hit
by the global financial upheaval
of recent years. One strategy has
been to establish a conventions
bureau to market Trinidad’s
extensive conference and
meetings capacity, while Tobago
has seen the opening of a major
new hotel, the Magdalena Grand,
formerly the Tobago Hilton.
Tobago depends heavily on
tourism, the only other major
employer being the public sector.
But some serious diversification
is under way in the shape of
the Cove Eco-Industrial Estate
and Business Park, designed
to promote knowledge-based
industries, light manufacturing,
information technology, and
selected intermediate goods
processing.Itwillalsobethelocal
terminal for a proposed natural
gas pipeline to Barbados.
Trinidad & Tobago provides
several advantages to potential
investors, even outside the energy
sector; its location, as a sort of
hinge between the Caribbean,
South America and North
America, and its trade agreements
with Europe, Canada, the United
States, Caricom, and parts of
Central and South America.
31. 29discovertnt.com
It also claims the largest and newest conference
infrastructureintheEnglish-speakingCaribbean;high-
quality ICT infrastructure and telecommunications;
a good track record with FDI; excellent and reliable
accessfrommajorinternationalaviationhubs;bilateral
investment and taxation treaties; no foreign exchange
controls; and, for qualifying projects, exemption from
VAT, customs duty and other taxes. (Not to mention
a lifestyle that integrates laid-back island charm with
a vibrant cultural landscape and a competitive and
sophisticated business climate.)
Quick tips
p For information on property investment, see the
Real Estate articles in both the Trinidad and
Tobago sections
p For information on tourism and investment, visit
tdc.co.tt, tourism.gov.tt, gotrinidadandtobago.com,
or investt.co.tt
The Petrotrin refinery at Pointe-à–Pierre
stephenjayphotography
32. The Trinidad & Tobago Convention Bureau (TTCB) offers a wide range of complimentary services that will
take the hassle out of event planning and ensure an amazing experience for groups, including:
• working with meeting planners to design innovative and unique itineraries, whether it be an eco-
adventure, cultural extravaganza, or a little bit of everything T&T
• liaising between planners and suppliers (hotels, tour operators, etc.) to negotiate rates
• hosting site inspections for meeting planners considering a programme in T&T.
Website: http://www.gotrinidadandtobago.com/trinidad/meetings Email: conventionbureau@tdc.co.tt
Meeting facilities & amenities
The Southern Caribbean’s leading business tourism destination,
Port of Spain – the capital of Trinidad and Tobago – boasts the
newest and largest conference facilities in the southern Caribbean.
The city’s eight major event venues include the Hyatt Regency
Trinidad, the modernised Hilton Trinidad and Conference Centre,
and the National Academy for the Performing Arts (NAPA).
Overlooking the serene emerald waters of the Gulf of Paria, the
Hyatt Regency Trinidad offers the best of Caribbean hospitality
and international luxury with over 43,000 square feet of flexible
meeting space, grand ballrooms, an exceptional business centre,
a waterfront restaurant, rooftop pool and sundeck.
Also boasting scenic views and top-notch technology is the
recently upgraded Hilton Trinidad and Conference Centre, with
40,000 square feet of meeting space. Overlooking the lush
Queen’s Park Savannah, the venue offers more than 400 rooms,
including four presidential suites. There also exists a wide range
of charming smaller properties for more intimate gatherings.
In the tranquil sister isle of Tobago, the newly re-opened
Magdalena Grand Beach Resort offers 178 deluxe ocean front
king and double rooms plus 22 suites with private jacuzzis,
all with breathtaking panoramic views of the ocean from large
terraces or balconies. The property also includes over 5500
square feet of meeting space.
Island buzz
Eat
For the epicures at heart,
come tantalise your taste
buds on Trinidad’s restaurant district.
Ariapita Avenue features a range of
dining fare, from fine restaurants to
intimate jazz lounges and swanky
tropical spots.
Drink
Discover the world’s most
expensive rum on a tour
of the renowned Angostura Rum
Distillery, which is also home to the
popular Angostura Bitters.
Be merry
Known as “The Greatest
Show on Earth”, Trinidad
and Tobago’s Carnival is like no other.
Enjoy rhythmic indigenous music,
from soca to steelpan, or join the
costumed parade. Outside of Carnival
you can join a conga line and dance
the night away while savouring
steelpan music and exquisite local
food at an authentic Trini Pan Lime.
Trinidad and Tobago is incomparable in the Caribbean in its unsurpassed energy, diversity
and distinctive cultural heritage. Enjoy a world of multi-ethnic festivals in Trinidad or
come unwind in scenic Tobago and be mesmerised by its enchanting rainforests and
pristine beaches. And for meeting planners seeking something exciting and new in the
Caribbean, the Trinidad & Tobago Convention Bureau will work closely with you to plan
the perfect programme.
At Your Service!
A D V E R T O R I A L
TRINIDAD & TOBAGO
Meetings and
so much more!
33.
34. 32
Rhythm of a
people
Despite our infamous fête culture, we don’t actually spend all our time jumping and
“palancing”, a term invented by soca duo JW & Blaze to describe the total abandon with
which Trinbagonians dance at Carnival time. There’s a rich and varied arts scene, for example,
with enough theatre groups, fashion designers, writers, musicians, filmmakers, dance companies and
visual artists to keep you busy and engaged every night of the week.
Dance
p Caribbean people being natural dancers, a
dance performance might mean folk, ballet,
jazz, modern, Indian, Latin, Chinese...
p Some companies worth looking out for are
the Cascade Festival Ballet, Metamorphosis,
the Noble Douglas Dance Company, and
Elle; some interesting smaller troupes also
experiment with multi-media presentation
p In the second half of the year, the Best
Village competition keeps folk dance
traditions alive in local communities
p The Northwest Laventille Cultural
Movement and the Shiv Shakti dance
company are renowned for presenting
African-based and traditional Indian dance
fashion & jewellery
p Trinidad & Tobago has a strong sense of style, so don’t be surprised to find very
trendy fashion by designers like Heather Jones, Meiling, Claudia Pegus and Robert
Young (The Cloth)
p New fashion ideas are creeping into the Carnival too, e.g. through young designers
Kathy and Karen Norman of K2K, who will launch an haute couture evening wear
line in 2013
p Anya Ayoung-Chee, former Miss T&T Universe (and winner of Season 9 of the hit
American television series Project Runway) has her own fashion line
p And there’s lovely handcrafted jewellery from artists like Barbara Jardine, Chris
Anderson and Gillian Bishop
trinidad&tobago
ediSonBoodooSingh
35. 33discovertnt.com
film & cinema
p Trinidad & Tobago is quickly catching on to the possibilities of filmmaking, backed by a
national film company
p The best place to see recent work is the trinidad+tobago film festival in late September/
early October (it also screens local and diaspora films in local communities during the year)
p That’s followed immediately by the European Film Festival (October), screening new and
classic European movies
p Meanwhile the trend for mainstream Hollywood titles is moving away from stand-alone
screens towards multiplexes (MovieTowne in Port of Spain, Chaguanas and Tobago;
Caribbean Cinemas 8 in Trincity)
p The latest novelty is an IMAX cinema in St James, Port of Spain
p Classic and independent films are screened by Campus Film Classics at the University of
the West Indies
Michael Mooleedhar (far right) directs a scene
from his movie The Cool Boys
CourteSymiChaeLmooLeedhar
Music
p The music that was invented and developed in Trinidad & Tobago – calypso, soca, steelpan
(“pan”) – is best heard at Carnival time, though there are shows of one sort or another most
months of the year
p Especially interesting is the way the music has been evolving from local roots into various kinds of
“world music”: look out for Mungal Patasar, Ella Andall, David Rudder, Maximus Dan, Orange Sky,
12theband, jointpop, 3canal, or recordings by the late André Tanker. Rock, pop, reggaeton, R&B, jazz,
rapso, reggae and Indian-flavoured “chutney” are all part of the mix
p Meanwhile both amateurs and professionals stage light classics, opera and musical theatre during
the year, and there are some outstanding choral groups (the Marionettes, Love Movement, the
Lydian Singers, Signal Hill, Jeunes Agape)
p The University of the West Indies (UWI) has an industrious Festival Chorale, and a couple of
amateur orchestras are taking shape. The UTT (University of Trinidad & Tobago) Musicians present
free classical concerts at the huge National Academy of Performing Arts (NAPA) in Port of Spain
p Less susceptible to change is the Spanish-flavoured “parang” music (paranda) associated with
Christmas
36. 34
trinidad&tobago
Literature
p A new generation of writers
(Monique Roffey, Elizabeth Walcott-
Hardy) is establishing itself alongside
such veterans as VS Naipaul, Earl
Lovelace, Michael Anthony and the
late Sam Selvon
p Bookshop chains (Nigel R Khan,
RIK) have a presence in the
shopping malls, and there are some
fine independent bookshops like
the Readers Bookshop near Long
Circular Mall and Paper Based in the
Hotel Normandie
p The excellent National Library is on
Abercromby Street in Port of Spain
theatre
p With several theatrical companies and venues,
offerings vary from popular farces to lavish
song and dance musicals (local, localised and
foreign) or intimate solo shows and dramas.
University departments also mount productions,
while Lilliput presents children’s theatre. All are
advertised in the daily newspapers.
p The epic ritualised Hindu drama of Ramleela is
staged in central Trinidad locations in the run-up
to Divali. The annual Best Village competition is
where many local actors and playwrights cut their
teeth
37. 35discovertnt.com
Visual arts
p Trinidad & Tobago has produced some distinguished visual artists, whose work is displayed in the seven-
gallery National Museum and city art galleries, and a significant art market has developed
p Key names include sculptors Ralph and the late Vera Baney, Edward Bowen, Leroy Clarke, Chris Cozier,
Jackie Hinkson, Dermot Louison, Shastri Maharaj, Wendy Nanan, Lisa O’Connor, Irénée Shaw, Peter
Sheppard and Sundiata
p Work by earlier generations is highly valued (MP Alladin, Sybil Atteck, Pat Bishop, Isaiah Boodhoo, Jean-
Michel Cazabon, Carlisle Chang, Boscoe Holder, Noel Vaucrosson)
Quick tips
p Check the daily papers for current performance and exhibition information
15’x6’ (painted on 15 2’x3’ canvas panels)
“In my little world” by Peter Sheppard
Acrylic on canvas 2009
(private collection in Barbados)
38. Turtles, diving &
hiking
trinidad&tobago
Leatherback hatchling
stephenbroadbridge
Turtle watching
Trinidad’s northeast and Tobago’s southwest
coasts are among the world’s most important
turtle nesting grounds. During nesting
months (March–August), from mid-evening through
early morning, female turtles – endangered leatherbacks
as well as hawksbill, green and occasional loggerheads
and olive ridleys – heave themselves out of the ocean
and crawl up the beach.
Laboriously they dig nests in the sand and deposit
their eggs, carefully camouflaging the spot. Two months
later, the eggs hatch, and the baby turtles make a dash
for the sea; few survive the predators and make it to
maturity.
Trinidad’s Grande Rivière (the second largest
leatherback nesting site in the world) and Matura are
both popular sites and protected beaches. In Tobago,
turtles frequent the beaches of the Leeward coast,
especially Stonehaven and Courland (or Turtle)
beaches.
ancient
visitors
Trinidad and Tobago are
among the most important
leatherback nesting sites in the
world, with about 18% of the
total world population nesting
here. Sadly, as few as one in a
thousand baby sea turtles will
survive long enough to return
to T&T as an adult.
36
39. 37discovertnt.com
turtle tips
p Permits are required: any good tour operator can arrange this. If you stay overnight nearby, hotels
and guesthouses can usually help to obtain permits, and will wake you when there are sightings
p Go with a guide, and give nesting turtles lots of space, especially during the digging and covering
process. Do not touch or in any way disturb the turtles
p Lights and activity can disorient turtles and hatchlings. Be quiet and unobtrusive on beaches
during the nesting season, particularly at night; do not use flashlights or flash photography. Do
not pick up hatchlings or impede their progress to the sea
p Don’t drive on nesting beaches, as vehicles can crush whole clutches of eggs hidden in the sand
p The Turtle Village Trust is the umbrella body for the islands’ leading turtle conservation groups:
Nature Seekers; the Grande Rivière Nature Tour Guide Association; the Matura to Matelot
(M2M) Network; the Fishing Pond Turtle Conservation Group; and SOS (Save our Sea
Turtles) Tobago. These are the places to start asking for more information
Diving
The islands’ extensive coral reefs, especially in Tobago, are a great draw for visitors and
diving enthusiasts. Some are content with snorkelling, but naturally many want the
thrill of scuba diving and exploring the submarine world.
Blessed with nutrient-rich waters, Tobago enjoys a varied and abundant marine environment.
Manta, eagle and sting rays are perennial attractions, as well as hammerhead, nurse and black-
tipped reef sharks; hawksbill, green and leatherback turtles; moray eels; barracuda; dolphin; and
pelagic species such as marlin.
edwardmontserin
40. 38
The variety of dive types (wreck, drift and reef diving) and dive sites is among the best in the
Caribbean. The major reef structures include the 10,000-year-old Buccoo Reef, Kilgwyn Flying Reef,
Culloden Reef, Speyside (featuring the world’s largest brain coral), and Charlotteville Reef (home to
manta rays from March to August).
The most popular dive sites include Japanese Gardens, east of Goat Island; Black Jack Hole, east
of Little Tobago; Book Ends, between Speyside and Little Tobago (best for advanced divers); and
the wreck of MV Maverick off the west coast. In Trinidad, the best areas are off the Chaguaramas and
Toco coasts.
diving tips
p Take care when diving and snorkelling not to
touch the coral; it is easily damaged, and if
you’re really unlucky you will get stung by fire
coral
p Scuba diving opens up an exciting new world –
but to appreciate it fully, a PADI (Professional
Association of Diving Instructors) registered
guide is recommended
p Accredited dive operators in both Trinidad
and Tobago offer courses for beginners,
open water, advanced, rescue diver, drift
diving, deep diving and wreck diving. The
Tobago Underwater Carnival in July provides
introductory courses
p Both islands have accredited dive centres, e.g.
in Chaguaramas, Charlotteville, Speyside, the
Crown Point area and Arnos Vale
p Average water temperature: 25–29°C/77–85°F
p Average visibility: 24–37m/80–120ft; best
visibility is January–August, especially May–
July
p Average depth: 18m/60ft; maximum depth
34m/110ft
trinidad&tobago
edwardmontSerin
41. 39discovertnt.com
Hiking & trekking
p When outdoors, wear long trousers for lengthy
bush treks, and never wear open-toed sandals;
comfortable, water-proof shoes with good grip
are recommended
p For hiking, take a little knapsack with a change of
clothes, socks and something to eat, stored in a
waterproof bag. If you carry a camera that’s not
waterproof, keep it here too
p Avoid wearing black: it attracts mosquitoes and, if
you’re in the open, soaks in the heat
p Bring enough water to stay hydrated
Quick tips
p Please recycle: Ace, Carib Glass, Piranha, Recycling in Motion (RIM), It’s Up to Me nvironmental,
and SWMCOL (Solid Waste Management Authority) process plastic, glass, aluminium, paper,
cardboard and electronics (e-waste); some also sponsor receptacles around the islands, or will
collect your recyclables
p Please reduce: turn off electrical devices when you don’t need them; avoid plastic bags and
styrofoam; buy and consume only what you need; reuse when you can
tips & tricks
p Use guides registered with the Trinidad
& Tobago Incoming Tour Operators’
Association (TTITOA); they are
professionally trained and have public
liability insurance
p Permits are needed for some locations
and activities (e.g. camping, turtle-
watching), but any reputable guide or
tour operator can arrange these
p Natural hazards are rare, but beware of
the Portuguese Man-o’-War jellyfish,
and the sap and fruit of the manchineel
tree; seek local advice on whether these
present
Icacos sunrise
marCaBerdeen
42. 40
trinidad&tobago
The shopping
challenge
For some, of course, this will not be a problem. But for the others …
Shopping malls
p There are five major shopping malls in Trinidad: The Falls at West Mall foand Long Circular
Mall fpin the western suburbs of Port of Spain; Trincity Mall fqnear Piarco airport; Grand
Bazaar (Valsayn) fr; and Gulf City (San Fernando) fs
p While you will find branches of popular downtown stores there, the malls also house high-end
stores you won’t find anywhere else
p In Trinidad there are several smaller shopping plazas and mini-malls (e.g. Valsayn ftand Ellerslie gu
Plazas, and the ever-popular Excellent City Centre gl in the heart of Port of Spain)
p In Tobago, the main mall (and cineplex) is Gulf City Lowlands gm, not far from Scarborough
Downtown
In every major urban centre in Trinidad, non-mall
shopping is focused on a few key streets: Frederick
and Charlotte Streets (Port of Spain); High Street
(San Fernando); Main Street (Chaguanas); Milford
Road Esplanade and the Market at Carrington Street in
Scarborough, Tobago.
online
Though relatively new, online
shopping is gaining traction.
So far, food, shoes, clothing,
lingerie and accessories are
the main items that can be
bought from local sites.
trade fairs
Indian businessmen have
been doing brisk business
in Trinidad over the last
decade with trade fairs where
they sell clothing, jewellery,
household products,
foodstuff and furniture at
bargain prices.
The Falls at West Mall
horaCePeterS
Numbers in the text refer to the relevant map pages 116–128
44. 42
trinidad&tobago
Best buys
Just in case you’re stumped for ideas, whether for yourself or as gifts to take home, here are some local suggestions.
Art & craft
p Wood carvings, handmade soaps, belts,
handbags, shell jewellery, calabash art,
sandals, sarongs, wooden sculptures and
carvings, accessories in leather and other
natural materials (from shopping plazas in
downtown Port of Spain, San Fernando,
Chaguanas and Scarborough, from souvenir
shops in the malls, and from sidewalk
vendors)
p Local craft (from hotel shops and beach
vendors)
p Paintings, sculptures and other art (from
local art stores and galleries, and at studios
like Luise Kimme’s Castle and The Art
Gallery in Tobago)
Books & magazines
p Local fiction and non-fiction, and locally
produced magazines, of which there are many
(from the Readers Bookshop in St James, the
RIK or Nigel R Khan bookstore chains, or
Paper Based at the Hotel Normandie)
Music
p Local CDs and DVDs (though you might
not think so from the radio, local music is
thriving: in addition to calypso, steel pan,
soca and chutney music, you will find local
rock, hip-hop, gospel, reggae, choral and
Indian music at most music stores)
p You can download local music from
TrinidadTunes.com and from iTunes
45. 43discovertnt.com
Clothes & fabrics
p Inexpensive mass-market clothing from China
and the USA (local boutiques)
p Up-market clothing from Europe and the USA
(higher-end boutiques)
p Ethnic clothing from India and Africa
p Designer fare from celebrated local designers (see
Rhythm of a people for more information)
p Hand-dyed fabrics and batiks, swimwear and
sportswear
p Indian fashion, accessories, fabrics, textiles, home
décor, and jewellery (e.g. from the unique House
of Jaipur in Woodbrook)
p In Tobago, don’t miss Batiki Point at the “Sunday
School” venue in Buccoo
TV & film
p DVDs of locally produced television series and films,
including Carnival shows and parades
Food & spirits
p Pepper and other sauces, roti skins,
pastelles, chocolate, seasonings, spices
p Award-winning Trinidadian rum,
spirits and bitters
p HiLo and TruValu are the big grocery
chains, as well as PennySavers in
Tobago
Jewellery
p Hand-crafted jewellery, precious stones
(specialist stores, sidewalk vendors)
Souvenirs
p Mini steel pans, mugs, key chains,
T-shirts, figurines, music, Carnival dolls,
handcrafted copper trinkets (Excellent
Stores is a good place to start)
You can buy clothes and souvenirs from
small shops like this one in Tobago
ariannthomPSon
Quick tips
p As in many other parts of the world, piracy is a thriving business, and does untold damage to local
artists, musicians and writers, so please buy from bona fide businesses, and avoid anything that looks as
if it might have been bootlegged
p Please also avoid souvenirs made from endangered species or rare materials (like black coral or turtle shell)
46. 44
trinidad&tobago
Horse riding
p In Tobago, you can go horseback riding on some beaches,
including Stonehaven, Grand Courland and Canoe Bays.
There are woodland trails in the southern half of the island.
Most hotels can make arrangements, and there is an office at
Canoe Bay
p In Trinidad, dressage and show jumping instruction is
available at Bays & Greys Riding
Centre (Santa Cruz), Jericoe
Stables (St Ann’s), and Goodwin
Heights (the 250-acre former
coffee and cocoa estate of Margaret
“Muffy” Auerbach in St Ann’s). For
trail riding, contact Hidden Valley
(Chaguaramas) or Bonanza Stud
Farm (Arima)
Play hard: the
sporting life
Sports are big in Trinidad & Tobago. Football (soccer) and cricket are national passions. Over the
years, the islands have been well represented internationally in track and field, football, cricket,
hockey, boxing, martial arts, swimming, motor sports and shooting. The local sporting calendar
is packed with competitions. And if you’d like to join the action …
Diving
p Tobago is a prime dive location, with over 60 established
dive sites (mainly around the northern tip) – shallow
reef dives, deep diving, wreck diving and drift diving.
Most dive operators offer introductory courses; there is a
decompression chamber at Roxborough Medical Facility,
20 minutes’ drive from Speyside
p Trinidad cannot match Tobago as a diving destination, but
there is still activity all year. The best is around the islands
off Chaguaramas, particularly Chacachacare, sheltered from
the muddy waters of the Orinoco; parts of the north and
west coasts are also good dive sites
p On either island, dive with a PADI registered operator
gyms & health clubs
p Gyms are everywhere, especially at larger hotels and malls;
many offer weekly, monthly and daily passes which allow
visitors access to group exercise classes, aerobics, spin, etc.
p Yoga and Pilates are popular ways of pursuing health
and wellness, as are some non-traditional activities like
pole dancing
r
BoSma
alien invasion
Lionfish have been spreading
across the Caribbean.
Strikingly beautiful, they are
predators with no natural
enemies, and decimate
juvenile fish species on our
reefs. They were spotted for
the first time in Tobago last
year .
47. 45discovertnt.com
Kayaking
p In Trinidad, river kayaking is best in the wet season when
rivers are full. The Yara and Marianne Rivers on the north
coast are popular spots; so is the Nariva Swamp, where
the Godineau River takes you through saltwater mangrove
swamps and freshwater marshland
p For sea kayaking, the Kayak Centre in Chaguaramas
offers the sheltered waters of Williams Bay, and provides
equipment
p In Tobago, you can pick up kayaking tours and lessons at
Man-o’-War Bay. Kayaks can be rented at some beaches,
and at beach resorts like Grafton Bay Resort and Le Grand
Courlan. Take extra care in the rainy season
golf
p Trinidad has three 18-hole
courses, at St Andrew’s
Golf Club in Moka,
Millennium Lakes in
Trincity, and the Pointe-
à-Pierre Golf Club at the
Petrotrin refinery near
San Fernando. There
are nine-hole courses at
Brechin Castle, Usine
Ste Madeleine and
Chaguaramas
p Tobago is served by two
fine 18-hole golf courses
at Mt Irvine Hotel and
Tobago Plantations
Sailing
p Trinidad has one of the largest racing fleets in the
Caribbean, and Chaguaramas is a major sailing
hub. The racing season begins around November–
December and continues till May–June
p Dry season winds are stronger (northeast trade,
consistent force 4–5), while in the wet season they
tend to be lighter (1–3)
p The Sailing Association hosts over a dozen races,
including general handicap races where any boat can
take part
p Most of Trinidad’s north coast bays offer good daytime
anchorage, but only professional captains should
attempt the windward side
p The Tobago Carnival Regatta (formerly Sail Week)
is a popular annual event, not only for the sailing but
for the partying which follows. It provides racing for
varying levels, from the highest racing class to racer
cruiser, cruiser and charter class
p Some tour operators operate sightseeing sailboat tours
and diving trips
Tennis
p There are public courts
at King George V Park
in St Clair, Trinidad, and
at Store Bay, Tobago
(reservations required).
Courts can be rented by
the hour at the Trinidad
Country Club and
some hotels. Courts
at Tranquillity and
Westmoorings require
yearly membership
p Play in the early morning
or late afternoon if
you want to avoid the
scorching midday sun
48. Sport fishing
p For sports fishing aficionados, Trinidad means tarpon. Onshore fishing in Trinidad is popular in
Chaguaramas, Las Cuevas, Galera Point and the mouth of the Nariva River
p Popular boat-fishing spots include the Chaguaramas islands, where fishermen troll for carite,
kingfish and cavalli, and bank for redfish, salmon and croakers (or grunt)
p Many highly prized pelagic species, such as blue marlin, sailfish, tuna, wahoo and dorado, patrol
Tobago’s reef and shelf drop-offs; Charlotteville’s waters are particularly productive. There is also
inshore, river, mudflat and fly fishing
p The key offshore seasons are October–
April for marlin, sailfish, wahoo, tuna
and dorado; and May–September for
barracuda, kingfish, bonito, and snapper
p The two major competitions are the
Tobago International Game Fishing
Tournament at Charlotteville and the
Trinidad & Tobago Game Fishing
Association Tournament at Speyside.
There have been record catches in the
last few years: a 400kg (890lb) blue
marlin was caught in the 2008 TTGFA
tournament, setting a junior world record
p The importance of conservation is
recognised, so competitions and charters
use the tag-and-release system
trinidad&tobago
lydenthomas
Surfing
p Trinidad’s north coast beaches provide
favourable swells from November to
March, though the wet season (and the
occasional hurricane passing further
north) can generate strong waves as
well. But even in peak season, patience is
needed, as surfing isn’t possible every day
p Sans Souci, Las Cuevas, L’Anse Mitan,
Grande Rivière, Roughside and Salybia
are the most popular surfing spots
p In March, the Surfing Association stages
the CSN Sans Souci, the first event in
the cross-Caribbean Carib Challenge
Cup series. It also hosts the International
Surf Festival in May, and national
championships in July
p In Tobago, Mt Irvine and Bacolet are
major surfing spots that can generate
perfectly shaped waves; board rentals and
lessons are available
46
49. 47discovertnt.com
Spectator sports
If you’d rather sit back and watch other people sweat, then you might like:
Athletics The big local events are the annual
Hampton Games at the Hasely Crawford
Stadium in Port of Spain and the Southern
Games at Guaracara Park, Pointe-à-Pierre. There
are 45 athletics clubs across the country; the
presiding body is the National Amateur Athletics
Association
Basketball The Jean Pierre Complex (Port of
Spain) and the Sport & Physical Education
Centre (St Augustine) are the main venues, with
others in Maloney, Point Fortin and Pleasantville.
The Super Ten (October–December) and the
National Club Championship are major events.
In Tobago, the venue is Shaw Park; 22 other hard
courts are open for public use
Body building Great entertainment for the
mercilesscrowd,butparticipantsinthejuniorand
senior championships take things very seriously
Cricket The Twenty/20 format has reinvigorated
cricket. The Queen’s Park Oval in Port of Spain is
a beautiful venue for international Tests and One-
Day Internationals, and has been the home of the
Queen’s Park Cricket Club since 1896. Shaw Park
is Tobago’s premier location. Trinidad is the home
of master batsman and former West Indies captain
Brian Lara
Cycling Major events are the Beacon Cycling
Series, the Tobago Cycling Classic, the Rainbow
Cup Triathlon, West Indies vs the World, the
Easter International Grand Prix and the National
Championships. Trinidad’s Queen’s Park Savannah
and the Arima Velodrome are popular venues
Dragon boat racing A young sport which caught
on in 2006; in 2011, the national team won
several medals at the International Dragon Boat
Federation World Championships in Tampa,
watersports
p Equipment rental and lessons in all manner of watersports –
kitesurfing, parasailing, surfing, kayaking, waterskiing – are
readily available at beaches across the country, especially in
Tobago. Crown Point and Speyside are great locations
p In late August, powerboats vie for supremacy on an 84-mile
route from Trinidad to Tobago in the Carib Great Race
lydenthomas
The Carib Great Race
50. 48
trinidad&tobago
Florida. Regattas have taken place in both Trinidad
and Tobago, mainly around Chaguaramas and
Pigeon Point
Football Pretty much the national sport. There
are male and female national teams (the Soca
Warriors and Soca Princesses), plus professional
and secondary school leagues and clubs for
children. The Soca Warriors reached the finals of
the World Cup in 2006 (T&T was the smallest
nation ever to qualify). Matches are held at the
Dwight Yorke Stadium in Tobago, and the Hasely
Crawford, Marvin Lee, Larry Gomes, Ato Boldon,
and Manny Ramjohn stadiums in Trinidad. The
Pro League runs April–December
Hiking & hashing Hiking is popular, especially
guided weekend hikes to some of the island’s
most breathtaking caves and waterfalls. The Port
of Spain Hash House Harriers is a 100-strong bi-
weekly event, with healthy attention to the social
necessities
Hockey The hockey year is split in two: an indoor
season (September–January) and an outdoor season,
on Tacarigua’s Astroturf in Trinidad and at the
Dwight Yorke Stadium in Tobago (March–August)
Horse racing Trinidad’s horse racing track is at
Santa Rosa Park near Arima (with an AmTote
betting system). Thoroughbreds pound the dirt
most Saturdays and public holidays, totalling
about 40 race days a year. Prestige events include
New Year races, Derby Day, Diamond Stakes,
Midsummer Classic, President’s Cup and the
Santa Rosa Classic
Martial arts Very popular now, especially in
Trinidad: capoeira, kung fu, karate, bushido,
aikido, judo, jujitsu, tai chi, kickboxing. Several
dojos teach martial arts styles, from kung fu to
wushu; Purple Dragon, founded by Professor Don
Jacob, teaches Trinidad’s only indigenous form of
karate, don jitsu ryu. The full contact combat sport
MMA (Mixed Martial Arts), aka cage fighting,
used to be unregulated but is now an accepted
item on the calendar. Caribbean Ultimate Fist
Fighting (CUFF) has held a number of local
events featuring international professionals
Motor sports Rally Trinidad and Rally Tobago
are the big events. The Rally Club (TTRC)
has hosted legs of the Caribbean Speed Stages
Rally Championship. Drag racing is popular,
though it is yet to find a permanent base.
Locations in south and central Trinidad include
the popular Zig Zag and Indian Trail tracks in
Couva. American autocross defensive driving
competitions and karting events are held in the
car park of the Santa Rosa race track
Mountain biking Mountain Bike Magazine
called Tobago the “mountain biker’s island
paradise.” In Trinidad, Chaguaramas is ideal for
beginners, but the Santa Cruz valley and Matura-
to-Matelot stretch are also popular. Tobago
provides great terrain for all levels. Muddy trails
can be hazardous in the wet season. Unless you
already know the terrain well, go with a guide
LydenthomaS
Motorcross
51. Tying the knot
Want to get married in T&T? No problem. And if you need someone to plan your wedding,
that’s no problem either. Wedding planners can organise part or all of your arrangements,
including the actual ceremony. They can find the perfect venue and source anything from
flowers and decorations to photographers and entertainers.
A church wedding, a wedding on the beach, even an underwater wedding? An all-inclusive
honeymoon package, an oceanside vista, accommodation for a hundred guests? Villa, hotel or resort for
your honeymoon? Tobago in particular has locations and service providers to suit any couple’s needs.
what you need to know
p First, you must establish temporary residency in Trinidad & Tobago by scheduling any wedding
activities no less than three full days after your arrival
p Obtain a special marriage licence (US$55) at the Inland Revenue Department, with proof of
identity (e.g. valid passport) and a valid return air ticket
p If you are divorced or widowed, you must provide evidence of your single status, and show
the relevant divorce decree or death certificate. Documents which are not in English must be
accompanied by a notarised English translation
p If you are under 18, you must have the written consent of your parent or guardian
p At your wedding ceremony you will need two witnesses, identified by their passports
p The marriage must be performed between 6am and 6pm
p You will receive two marriage certificates that are accepted in most countries. (It’s wise to confirm
this and check for any additional requirements in your home country well in advance)
celestehartphotography
49discovertnt.com
52. 50
trinidad
Where to stay?
For the business traveller
p Business hotels in Trinidad tend to be grand or simply practical, but they provide what the average
businessperson needs to prepare for meetings and stay in touch
p Several international hotel brands have properties in and around Port of Spain
p There is plenty of flexible conference and meeting space in the city, and a conference bureau to assist
p Excellent hotels and facilities are part of the reason why Trinidad is the business centre of the
Caribbean
p Some properties popular among business travellers:
KapokDiscoverT&TMag(O).indd 1 17/09/2012 16:29
Port of Spain
p Hyatt Regency Trinidad on the city waterfront
p Hilton Trinidad & Conference Centre
overlooking the Savannah
p Carlton Savannah in St Ann’s
p Courtyard by Marriott, near MovieTowne
p Kapok Hotel in Maraval
Near the airport
p Holiday Inn Suites
San Fernando
p Royal Hotel
p Tradewinds Hotel
p Cara Suites
53.
54. 52
trinidad
for the vacationer
p Adventurers and budget travellers often prefer
the smaller, homelier hotels, guesthouses, and
bed-and-breakfast properties
p Luxury seekers gravitate to the large hotels;
all the business hotels mentioned will cater
for vacation needs. Several large hotels, like
the ones on the previous page, cater for both
the business traveller and the luxury seeker.
Most have world-class spas and luxurious
rooms, and can organise tours or shuttles to
the island’s places of interest
courtesyhyatttrinidad
Luxurious room at the Hyatt
56. 54
trinidad
Guesthouses and B&Bs
p These are many and varied, with full
service and business amenities at
one end of the scale, and basic self-
catering at the other
p Most are located in or close to the
cities, but there are some excellent
places in the countryside as well
p The Allamanda (Woodbrook),
Sundeck Suites (Port of Spain) and
Par-May-La’s (Newtown) are handy
for Port of Spain
r&r
So you’ve toured from coast to coast, limed
the night away, shopped till you dropped …
now it’s time for a little indulgence. The Face &
Body Clinic – in the spa business for over 25
years – has locations in San Fernando, Port of
Spain, Tobago, and Chaguanas. Their products,
treatments and professional programmes are
based on those of Spanish spa and body-care
giant Germaine de Capuccini. So go ahead:
pamper yourself!
courtesy face &
bodyclinic
57.
58. 56
trinidad
For the eco-enthusiast
p Trinidad rewards eco-tourists and nature enthusiasts with a wide range
of flora and fauna within the confines of a small island, and plenty of
opportunities for exploration and adventure
p Many come to Trinidad to visit the forest and wetlands, or to watch birds
or turtles
p There are some wonderful nature-oriented havens in remote parts of
Trinidad – some on the beach, some in the mountains
Nariva River
59. 57discovertnt.com
stephenjayphotography
Nature lodges
p Asa Wright Nature Centre in the hills
above Arima
p Beachfront properties in Grande
Rivière, where guests can get close to
endangered leatherback turtles as they
nest between March and August
p Hacienda Jacana near Talparo
p Pax Guest House at Mount St Benedict
60. 58
trinidad
Bargain hunting
p In 2012, hotel room rates averaged
US$125 a night, guesthouses $65
p Discounted rates and packages are often
available
p The peak visitor season is December–
April (expect higher rates); prices also
increase around Carnival time
p Last-minute rooms are often available,
but it’s best to book ahead for any
international events and conferences,
and for traditionally popular periods
like Easter, Carnival, Christmas and
New Year
p Visit gotrinidadandtobago.com and
visittobago.gov for current information
trini talk
Bacchanal: a scandalous, confusion,
commotion, a rowdy event
Fête: a party (hence “to fête”)
Lime: to hang out with friends (hence “a lime”)
Maco: nosy person, a busybody (hence “to
maco”)
Mas: Carnival, masquerade
Wine: sensual dancing (hence “to wine”)
Palance: party, lime, dance (hence “to
palance”)
stephen broad
bridge
61. Nestled within the picturesque Cascade valley, The Carlton Savannah is
Trinidad’s trendiest boutique hotel. Located minutes away from the eventful
capital, Port of Spain and adjacent to the world’s largest roundabout,
the Queen’s Park Savannah, we are your home away from home.
Our chic 148 guest rooms can be transformed to 49 stylishly designed suites
including fully equipped office spaces or a luxurious living room.
Apart from our spacious air-conditioned rooms with 32 inch flat screen
televisions we also provide complimentary internet access, in-room tea and coffee,
laundry facilities, heated salt water lapped-style swimming pool and fitness centre.
Excite your palate with dishes from our casual dining restaurant,
RELISH or our award winning, AAA 4-diamond, fine-dining restaurant, CASA.
Rest assured... It's all about you!
62. 60
trinidad
Dining
out
It would be a real shame to visit Trinidad
and stick to steaks and hamburgers, pizzas
and fries. Especially when there are so
many interesting local alternatives.
The people of Trinidad are descended from
every corner of the planet: from West Africa,
India and China, Europe and North America,
the Middle East and the Mediterranean. So the
island has inherited a whole variety of culinary
traditions. Each of them has contributed its
own techniques and preferences to the national
pot; they have fused with each other, combined
and adapted to their new surroundings, to
Bake & shark
Trinidad is famous for its bake
and shark, especially at Maracas.
But shark populations worldwide
have been declining rapidly,
including those in T&T’s waters.
Their disappearance would wreak
havoc on our marine ecosystem.
So why not help protect it by
ordering catfish, king fish, shrimp
or cheese with your bake?
shirleybahadur
63. 61discovertnt.com
produce Trinidad’s distinctive national cuisine.
The resilience of the Chinese tradition, for
example, explains the multitude of Chinese
restaurants and takeouts (and the traffic in chefs
from the various Chinas). Pre-partition India
has bequeathed a rich legacy of curries and
accessories, and some richly rewarding Indian
restaurants. The legendary “doubles” and the roti
served up by sidewalk vendors and roti shops are
local derivatives of Indian taste.
The same pattern lies behind the kebabs
and tabouli of Syria and Lebanon. Both Italian
and Thai cuisine have established themselves,
though curiously French cooking has never
really caught on.
The African tradition has consolidated
itself into mainstream “creole” cooking, with
its delight in rice-and-peas, stews and pelaus,
callaloo and root vegetables. And while purely
Bitters pill?
The world-renowned Angostura
bitters is native to Trinidad
& Tobago, and the company
has kept its legendary recipe a
secret since 1824. (For more
Angostura bitters trivia, visit
angosturabitters.com)
CourteSy ang
oStura
64. 62
trinidad
African restaurants are still a rarity, solid creole
cooking underlies many of today’s fusions and
crossovers. Among the finest Creole restaurants is
Veni Mangé in Woodbrook.
So in Trinidad the options range from fine dining
restaurants with their sophisticated menus, décor
and atmosphere, to spicy street food and the corn
soup, roast corn and coconut water sold by vendors
around the Queen’s Park Savannah.
In between are the more casual restaurants
(but don’t mistake casualness for bad food),
congenial all-day bistros like Adam’s Bagels in
Maraval, American-style sports bars like Zanzibar
at MovieTowne, franchises such as Subway, coffee-
shops, and a whole range of fast-food chains
peddling pizzas, hamburgers and fried chicken.
gurukast
Sushi has become very popular in Trinidad
Chow
A ceviche of sliced green or
half-ripe fruits like mango,
plums, pineapple, pommerac or
cucumbers, seasoned with salt,
good hot pepper and maybe a
little lime juice and sugar to taste.
It’s been said that once it’s a fruit,
a Trini can make chow out of it.
CariBBeanPot.C
om
65. 63discovertnt.com
If you are interested in sampling local food, here are some of the things you should know:
p Accra: a fritter made with flour, black-eyed peas or grated yam, flavoured with saltfish, thyme and
pepper; also popular in Jamaica
p Aloo pie: spicy mashed potato filling between elongated, soft, fried bread
p Barra: a soft shell made from flour, split peas and turmeric
p Blue food: starchy vegetables such as dasheen (blue-tinted yam), cassava, breadfruit, plantains,
yams
p Buljol: salted codfish shredded and seasoned with pepper, onions, tomatoes and olive oil, and
served in hops or bake
p Callaloo: soup-like dish made from dasheen leaves (something like spinach), with okra and other
ingredients like coconut or pig-tail
p Corn soup: a split peas-based soup with corn and dumplings
p Cou-cou: a mixture of cornmeal, okra and butter boiled and stirred till firm enough to be sliced;
often served with callaloo
p Doubles: popular Indian snack consisting of a soft, fried flour-and-split pea shell filled with curried
chick peas
p Float (or fry bake): leavened dough that ‘floats’ to the top as it is cooked in hot oil
p Pastelles: a Christmas specialty similar to Spanish tamales – spiced ground meat with raisins and
olives wrapped in a casing of cornmeal and steamed in banana leaves
p Pelau: a one-pot dish of rice, pigeon peas and meat, often cooked in coconut milk
p Pholouri: small, deep-fried balls of highly seasoned ground split peas and flour, served with spicy
chutney
p Roti: a hefty flour wrap (often with ground split peas) filled with your choice of curried vegetables
and/or meat. Sada roti is a slightly stiffer, greaseless variation, commonly served with choka and
vegetables sautéed Indian-style
p Shark &bake: richly seasoned shark fillets stuffed into a fried leavened bread (bake) and dressed
with pepper, garlic and chadon beni (cilantro) sauces. Since shark populations worldwide are on
the decline we encourage you to replace the shark filling with kingfish, shrimp or cheese – just as
delicious!
p Sorrel: a red drink made from the fruit
of the same name, popular at
Christmas
p Souse: boiled pork, served
cold in a salty sauce with
lime, cucumber,
pepper and
onion
slices
Satlfish accra
ShirLeyBahadur
66. trinidad
fast food
All Trinis love their doubles: two
fried pieces of dough (barra)
filled with curried channa
(chickpeas) and spiced with
cucumber, mango and pepper
sauce – “slight”, “medium” or
“plenty” according to taste.
Doubles are sold by street
vendors across the country.
There’s even an app (on Android)
called “Eat ah Doubles”, which
helps you to locate your nearest
vendor whenever you have a
craving.
If you are feeling adventurous,
try to find the source – the little
known doubles “factory” in El
Socorro.
Doubles with everything
64
67. Quick tips
p Street vendors should display an official food badge
p Several good Trinidad & Tobago cookbooks are available at the better bookstores
whatscookinginyourworld.com
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trinidad
FieldworkWhere to go, what to see?
Port of Spain
The Queen’s Park Savannah 1
p This is the capital’s green heart, and reportedly the largest roundabout in the world. Very popular
with joggers and sports enthusiasts
p On the northern side are the renovated Emperor Valley Zoo 2, the Botanical Gardens 3with
their extraordinary collection of flora, and the President’s House 4, now being renovated
p On the western side are “the Magnificent Seven” 5, a row of beautiful colonial-era buildings,
several in dire need of restoration: from south to north, Queen’s Royal College (a leading school);
Hayes Court (Anglican bishop’s house); Milles Fleurs and Roomor (privately owned); Roman
Catholic archbishop’s house; Whitehall (formerly the Prime Minister’s office); and Killarney or
Stollmeyer’s Castle
Numbers in the text refer to the relevant map pages 116–128
69. ariannthompson
Queen’s Royal College (one of the Magnificent Seven)
get started
p Econo Car Rentals: if you’re looking to
strike out on your own … Econo Car has
been in business for over 20 years and
has four offices – one at each airport plus
Chaguaramas and Port of Spain. They
offer free pick-up/delivery, unlimited
mileage, and round-the-clock service
p Trinidad & Tobago Sightseeing Tours,
founded and run since 1984 by Charles
Carvalho, offers sightseeing tours, city
tours, Tobago day tours, historical tours,
golf trips, nature tours including mild to
strenuous hikes, boat tours, diving trips,
turtle-watching and birding. There are
no minimum numbers for tours, which
can be booked for just one person.
TTST offers trips into the Caroni Bird
Sanctuary at any time of day, and can
arrange hotel reservations, car rentals,
aircraft charter, conferencing, and
cultural itineraries
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70. 68
The National Museum 6
p Just south of the Savannah, on upper Frederick
Street, the museum presents new collections
and retrospectives, period installations,
mineral and marine displays, and ethnic
artefacts
p A collection of the work of 19th-century
artist Jean-Michel Cazabon occupies the only
temperature-regulated room, but the main hall
shows most of the country’s major artists
Concert halls
p Just west of the museum is the contemporary
National Academy of Performing Arts 7,
with its multiple stages and performance
spaces
p The much older (but recently renovated)
Queen’s Hall 8is at the northeast corner of
the Savannah
trinidad
National Academy of the Perfoming Arts (NAPA)
edisonboodooshing
71. 69discovertnt.com
horacepeters
The Waterfront at night
downtown
p The Brian Lara Promenade 9runs down the
middle of Independence Square, the focal point
of downtown Port of Spain
p At the western end, it is bordered by the
new waterfront auand ferry terminal al,
overlooked by the Hyatt Regency Trinidad;
at the eastern end is the (Roman Catholic)
Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception am,
where T&T’s many ethnicities are depicted in
the stained glass
p In between are the blue semicircle of Nicholas
Tower an, and the “twin towers” ao, which
house the Central Bank and the Ministry of
Finance
p A few blocks to the north is Woodford Square
ap, laid out by a British colonial governor nearly
200 years ago. Often used for political rallies, it is
bordered by the Red House aq(the traditional
seat of parliament), the Hall of Justice ar
(law courts), the National Library asand the
(Anglican) Holy Trinity Cathedral at
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trinidad
Chaguaramas &thenorthwestpeninsula
Fort George bu
p Colonial-era signal station on the crest of a ridge 335m (1,100ft) above the city (access from St James)
p Cannon, a small museum, with magnificent panoramic views of the west coast
Gasparee Caves
stephenbroadbridge
Chaguaramas
Boardwalk bo
Starting at Williams Bay, this
new boardwalk provides not
only a pleasing stroll by the sea
but new facilities – bike trails,
gazebos for cooking, liming
spots and rest areas. It’s ideal
for roller-blading and fishing,
and a great place to bring
family and friends.
Chaguaramas national
heritage Park
p Chaguaramas is a playground for nature-lovers and eco-
adventurers: hiking trails, historic landmarks, a military
museum, a nine-hole golf course, restaurants, marinas,
waterfalls, beaches (including the popular Macqueripe
dr)
p Land sports (cycling, hashing, mountain biking), water
sports (kayaking, sailing, yachting, power boating,
dragon-boat racing), and boats to the offshore islands
p Two highlights are the 76m (250ft) Edith Falls bl, and
Morne Catherine bm, the highest peak in the area
p The area was a US military base during World War II,
and several buildings survive from that time, as well as a
signal station in the hills
p Offshore, the 30m (98ft) deep limestone Gasparee
Caves on Gaspar Grande island (“Gasparee”) bn
are breathtakingly beautiful. Tours are arranged
with registered tour guides, or the Chaguaramas
Development Authority
73. 71discovertnt.com
Lopinot bq
p In the Northern Range foothills, once a cocoa
estate, Lopinot now has a small museum in
the former estate house, near the old slave
quarters and prison
p The estate was developed by the Compte de
Lopinot, who fled Haiti for Trinidad after
the 1791 Haitian revolution (and is said to
appear on stormy nights astride a white horse
– Lopinot has featured on the popular US
television show Ghost Hunters International)
p The area is now popular for sports, river
bathing, cave exploration, and parang music
around Christmas time
Cleaver Woods br
p Just west of Arima, home to a small
Amerindian museum, with a picnic area
and nature trails
National Science Centre bs
p On the southern side of the highway to
Arima: hands-on exhibitions for both adults
and children
galera Point, toco bt
p A magnificent headland, with the newly
rechristened Keshorn Walcott Toco
Lighthouse at the northeastern tip of
Trinidad, where the navy-blue Atlantic
meets the electric-blue Caribbean Sea
Grande Rivière cu
p Beyond Toco, the road turns back on itself and follows the north coast westwards towards Grande
Rivière and Matelot through forested hills and valleys
p The beach at Grande Rivière is a major nesting area for leatherback turtles; there’s great hiking,
bird watching, horse riding, boat trips and snorkelling
Eastward
mount St Benedict Church &
monastery bp
p Perched 240m (800ft) up in the Northern Range above St
Augustine and Tunapuna, the oldest Benedictine monastery in the
Caribbean offers panoramic views of the Caroni plains and beyond
p Built in 1912, its 600 acres support nature trails, an art gallery and
studio, a gift shop, and a guesthouse and café, as well as the central
church
Mount St Benedict
nikophotography.com
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trinidad
Central Trinidad
Temple in the Sea, Waterloo cm
p A Hindu temple built literally in the sea a short way
offshore, accessible by a causeway
p Indian indentured labourer Siewdass Sadhu toiled
for decades to build this temple in the sea, after being
forbidden to build on colonial land
Point Lisas cn
p Trinidad’s major industrial complex sprawls along
the west coast near Couva
p It houses an international port and a range of plants
fuelled by the country’s own natural gas, producing
mainly steel and petrochemicals (methanol,
ammonia, urea)
p Guided tours available
hanuman temple & dattatreya
yoga Centre cl
p The distinctive 26m (85ft) statue of the Hindu god
Hanuman near Carapichaima is the tallest of its kind
outside India, and towers over the Yoga Centre and mandir
Hanuman statue
ariannthomPSon
La Vega Garden
Centre co
p This estate in Gran Couva, home to
a range of plants and trees, is popular
for picnics, kayaking, and outdoor
activities
divali nagar Centre cp
p The Divali Nagar site just north of Chaguanas is the venue for many Hindu activities and
performances – lectures, Indian trade fairs, cultural shows, Divali celebrations
p A 12m statue of Swami Vivekananda keeps a watchful eye over the area
Chaguanas cq
p Home of traditional
Indian pottery, and the
site of Nobel laureate VS
Naipaul’s childhood home
(the Lion House)
Pointe-à-Pierre Wild Fowl Trust cr
p A magnificent 25-hectare sanctuary and breeding centre for
endangered waterfowl, with a learning centre and eco-lodge
p Reservations and permission are required, because the site is
inside the Petrotrin oil refinery
75. Southward
San fernando hill cs
p In the middle of T&T’s second city, San Fernando, this hill is
a national park despite being badly scarred by quarrying
p It has magnificent views of the city, the Gulf of Paria, the
Caroni Plains and Northern Range
p There are picnic huts and a children’s play area
devil’s woodyard mud Volcano ct
p Near Princes Town, and not as terrifying as its name suggests
(European settlers weren’t sure how to explain the bubbling
and rumbling), this is one of many small mud “volcanoes” in
the southland
p Mud volcanoes emit hot mud through a vent or fissure,
propelled by methane or other gases below the surface
p Though usually quiet, the Devil’s Woodyard can occasionally
produce large muddy eruptions
the Pitch Lake du
p A slowly-churning lake of natural bitumen, covering
about half a square kilometre at La Brea
p Natural springs, said to have healing properties,
appear at its centre during the rainy season
p Most of the surface is hard enough to walk on
p Legend has it that a tribe of Amerindians was
swallowed by the lake as punishment for eating
hummingbirds, which hosted the spirits of their
ancestors
p A small museum houses some (sometimes bizarre)
artefacts that have been recovered from the pitch
Pitch Lake
ariannthompson
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trinidad
Banwari Trace dl
p The oldest pre-Columbian site in the West Indies,
on the southern shore of the Oropouche Lagoon
south of San Fernando, dating to about 5,000 BC
p Excavations have unearthed stone tools and the
earliest human skeleton so far recovered anywhere
in the Caribbean
p The skeleton, unearthed in 1969-70 by Peter
Harris and his colleagues of the Trinidad & Tobago Historical Society, was nicknamed Banwari
Man (although it’s unclear if the person was male or female)
p The remains of the Banwari burial are at the University of the West Indies
p The site probably represents one of the first settlements established by the Caribbean’s
Amerindians or First People as they migrated northwards from South America into the Caribbean
islands
Banwari Man
deSireeSeeBaran
Swamplands
p Trinidad’s central plain, the island’s sugar belt, supports some
of its richest ecosystems
p The Caroni Bird Sanctuary dmis an extensive area of lagoon,
marshland and swamp on the northwest coast. The highlight:
flocks of rare scarlet ibis flying home to roost each evening at
dusk – an unforgettable sight
p Boat tours last a couple of hours from late afternoon to dusk
(though T&T Sightseeing Tours operates tours all day)
p On the opposite, east coast, the Nariva Swamp & Bush-Bush
Wildlife Sanctuary dn is the largest swamp in either island
p You’ll need a guide and permit to explore Nariva by kayak
for a glimpse of manatees in their natural habitat, anacondas,
caimans, and bird life
Caroni Swamp
chrisanderson
