Queer fashion visibility in London.

1. London Picture Archive No.314573
1533
Buggery Act is first passed into law, making anal intercourse
between men punishable by death.
1700s
Molly houses, where men could cross-dress, engage in
homosexual acts and ritual parody of contemporary society grew
at this time
They came particularly under scrutiny from the 1720s. With
Mother Clap's Molly house being raided in 1726, the 'Mollie's'
being tried for sodomy, and Margaret Clap for keeping a
disorderly house.
1889
Cleveland street scandal- a male brothel which was found to have
possibly had prominent aristocratic clients was found by police.

2. 1920s
Many lesbian and queer women began to adopt trousers,
although they would not be widely acceptable or universally legal,
until the 1970s.
Monacles also became popular in this decade, particularly among
upper class Lesbian circles, and while it would fall out of fashion
in the coming decade, it would remain in use among particular
circles of women, but it was largely an indicator of class, rather
than sexuality.
1922
Dorothy Todd, a gay woman, becomes the second editor of British
Vogue.
She lived with her assistant Madge Garland in Chelsea. While she
was only editor for 4 years, she broadened the magazine from
pure fashion, to a more progressive view of culture, subculture,
art and fashion. She was fired for this and blackmailed by the
publisher for her ‘private sins’. She would reflect on this in 1982,
about then publisher’s Condé Nast willingness to avoid fulfilling a
contract through homophobic threats.
1936
The Gateways club, which was the longest running Lesbian
nightclub in the world, opened.
1960s
The ‘Peacock Revolution’. Men's fashion was revolutionised in the
50s and 60s, becoming flamboyant, colourful and sexualised. It
went against the strict standards of masculinity set in previous
decades, and one of the most influential fashion designers was
John Stephen, a gay man.
Copyright © The John
Stephen Estate
(1957-1975).
Photography Madge Garland Archive, Royal College of Art Special Collections

3. 1962
‘How to spot a possible Homo’ Article is published in
the Sunday Mirror. Including possible warning signs
such as
•- ‘Those who dye their hair’
- ‘They wear silk suits’
- ‘They wear hairy sports jackets’
- ‘The fussy-wearer’
1967
Male homosexuality is partially decriminalised.
Furthermore, by this year, John Stephen and his
boyfriend had a chain of 15 shops on Carnaby street.
Claiming in the same year that ‘Carnaby is [his]
creation’. His clothing informed what was fashionable
and his excellent marketing as “The Million pound
Mod” ensured that his styles would not only thrust
queer fashion to prominence but would be influential
for decades.
1969
Stonewall riots in the US have had lasting impact and
recognition worldwide.
1970s
‘Anti-fashion’ movement. Popularity particularly among
queer women for counter-cultural clothing, such as
bowties, suit jackets, and baggier silhouettes, which
leaned more towards androgyny.
Additionally, this environment allowed enduring
symbols, such as the Carabiner clip, key rings, and even
more esoteric symbols, such as the labrys to emerge.
Labrys ear-ring. Museum of
London 1999.

4. 1972
First London Gay pride rally was held, on the
nearest Saturday to the anniversary of stonewall.
Gay news is also founded.
It is also believed that this is when the ‘Hanky code’
was officially launched.
1985
The Gateways club closes, after having lost its late
license and losing popularity on weekdays.
1987
Homosexuality no longer classed as a mental
disorder on the DSM–III–R. However, gender
identity disorder was also introduced in this edition.
1970s and 1980s
Protest badges were largely produced and
circulated in these decades, being and unmissable,
and often dangerous symbol of queer visibility, and
liberation.
A single piercing in the right ear increasingly
becomes a popular way for gay men to signal to
each other without outing themselves.
Gay pride lapel badges, 1978-88. Museum of London
Gay Semiotics,
1977. © Hal
Fischer

5. 2005
A way for asexual people to queer signal,
the Ace ring was proposed in 2005 and has
largely caught on since.
2010
Hannah Dee criticised London pride in her
book ‘The Red in the Rainbow: Sexuality,
Socialism and LGBT Liberation’ for having
become a corporate sponsored event.
2013
'Gender identity disorder' was declassified
as a mental health disorder, being replaced
by 'Gender Dysphoria'
2019
First London trans+ pride parade formed,
partially in response to the anti-trans
demonstration in the Pride march of 2018.
2022
Harry Styles wears a dress on the cover of
British Vogue, drawing praise and backlash.
2023
According to the office of national statistics (ONS) Anti-
trans hate crimes have risen by 186% in the past 5 years.
In a report released by the Home office for the year
ending March 2023, it states that reported crime had
risen by 11%, hitting an all time high, and stated that this
rise may be in part inflammatory comments by politicians
and the media over the last year.
ONS also reported that Hate crime based on sexual
orientation has also risen by 112% in the same time in
the past 5 years.