Industries run on insecurities, reasons and consequences. This essay retraces the reasons why the south and east of Asia is obsessed with skin fairness. The history all the way from the effect colonization had on this issue to how Girls are affected nowadays by this obsession. And how marketing and giant companies like "Fair and Lovely" use this issue to profit. Isra Al Harthi

1. Not fair, But lovely.
Industries run on insecurities,
reasons and consequences.
N1610
December14,2017
word count: 2150

2. An obsession with fair skin has been documented across a multitude of
cultures (Chia, et al., 2012). This phenomenon is noticeable across both
genders but more on women because women are associated with beauty.
Particularly in South and East Asia (Parameswaran and Cardoza, 2009).
The obsession with fair skin has been linked to British colonialism (Glenn,
E.N., 2008). Recent research by Mishra (2015) demonstrated that Indian
consumers attitudes and expectations have not changed. In this essay, the
obsession with fair skin products will be illustrated through a review of skin
care adverts which mainly targets women. It is argued that the obsession
with fair skin makes it acceptable for skin care products to be openly
offensive. The essay will critically discuss how corporations benefit from
individuals’ insecurities and work on deteriorating them (ref). This essay will
mainly use Fair and Lovely to discuss.
The structure of the essay will be in four parts.The first part will discuss the
obsession of fairness in South and East Asia mainly India and its link to
European colonialism. Secondly, an analysis of the lighting creams market
sales in South East Asia will decipher how cosmetic giants pick up on
individual’s skin insecurities for financial gains. Lastly, real life stories of
people affected by this phenomenon will be elucidated, highlighting what
activists are trying to do to overcome the fairness obsession.
In many Asian, Middle Eastern and African societies, fair skin has
frequently been set as a standard of beauty. European colonisation in such
regions further imposed the fair skin ideal (Parameswaran and Cardoza,
2009), and hence are often blamed for being the source of the fairness
obsession (Glenn, 2008). However, critics don't always acknowledge that
several North African and Asian cultures had fairness as a mark of beauty

3. preceding European contact (Parameswaran and Cardoza, 2009). Indian
folk songs often complimented women who had skin "the color of butter"
(Indian butter is white). In pre-colonial times, women in Indonesia used
natural homemade skin remedies to lighten their skin (ibid). As wealthier
people did not work in the sun, their skin colour tended to be paler making
light skin a mark of prosperity and elegance. (Glenn, 2008) Size is another
bodily feature which displays status in some cultures as bigger size implied
wealth(Poorani, 2012). Furthermore, writer Ibn Battuta noted that a perfect
woman must be "pure, white and fat" (Leistikow, 2003).
Nevertheless, Europeans are accountable for introducing destructive racial
notions to Non-Europeans when they were colonised (reference). Pre-
colonial colourism in many cultures is essentially different from modern
Western racism (Eric P.H et.al., 2008). Discrimination on the social
meanings linked to skin complexion is colourism while racism is prejudice
directed towards someone of a different race (Hunter, 2007). Even though
skin prejudice was the result of light skinned invaders from the West, the
East have adopted these norms and made them an integral part of their
cultures and practices (ibid).
Historically, women in South India bathed in water and turmeric as it
contains skin lightening properties (Parameswaran and Cardoza, 2009). In
China, “milk-white” skin is a representation of beauty, some Chinese
women swallow powdered pearls in hope of lighter complexion (China
Daily, 2006). The desire for white skin is present in many Asian cultures,
regardless of their diverse differences. (Isa and Kramer, 2003; Russell,
Wilson and Hall, 1992).

4. Economically incentivised skin care corporations create adverts to
emphasise skin colour insecurities without caring about the social
standards they are setting (Glenn, 2008).
Advertisements are a clear way of analysing a particular social issue.
Advertising is a critical archival record for learning about cultural images
and texts (Belk and Pollay 1985). Research conducted by The Consumer
Association chose six magazines from four Asian countries to analyse how
brands reinforce and create beauty standards through their advertisements
(Eric P.H et.al., 2008). The research found that skin care products always
link white skin with naturalness by using words like “recover,” “rejuvenate,”
“repair,” “prevent,” “refresh,” “retain,” and “revitalize” to emphasize that the
product will help to regain the natural skin. Telling people that non white is
not natural (ibid). Skin care manufacturers spend billions of dollars on
advertising skin whitening products,seeking financial benefits from Asian’s
desire for fair skin (Nielsen Company, 2007).
Advertisements are produced a certain way to maximise demographic and
ensure more sales for the company. Advertisers use generalised sentences
relating to viewer insecurities which attracts future consumers (for example,
100% marks reduced, Figure. 3). For example, Fair & Lovely adverts
directed at men displayed confidence boosts after using their cream (Fair
and Lovely, 2017). These advertisements trigger personal insecurities in
men (e.g. finding a woman), and making them feel bad about themselves.
This method is used by a wide range of beauty companies that target men

5. and women’s insecurities (Poorani, 2012). This technique of advertising
can be particularly harmful for women as they are most insecure about their
appearance and vulnerable to such advertisements (Poorani, 2012).
In South Asia, advertisements allude sensitive topics such as marriage and
university admissions (Chia, et al., 2012). An example of this is the Fair &
Lovely Story of a Prince advert (YouTube, 2017). Dark skinned individuals
are shown as undesirable and unsuccessful until they start using the skin
lightening cream and their fate is turned around (Chia, et al., 2012). Again,
this builds on individual insecurities in order to degrade people to buying
certain products.
Companies like Fair & Lovely use social issues and movements in their
adverts to strengthen their public image. For example, in the 80’s arranged
marriages were common and Fair & Lovely’s adverts encouraged women
to choose their own spouses, pushing cultural boundaries. Furthermore, in
the 90s women desired equal partnership in marriages and Fair & Lovely
used this topic to inspire women to believe the notion is possible, through
their adverts. In the 2000s, when society believed that a woman’s place
was at home, Fair & Lovely adverts encouraged women to choose their
own career (fairandlovely.in, 2017). This way, the company personally
targeted women by enticing them with hope in such matters. Fair & Lovely
profess to helping women build their confidence by creating positive
changes in society (fairandlovely.in, 2017). However, their adverts
implicate this can only be done through changing one’s skin complexion.
In 2014,the Advertising Standards Council of India banned advertisements
portraying darker skinned individuals as inferior but are still being

6. promoted. Skin-lightening advertisements still appear in newspapers, TV
and billboards which feature Bollywood celebrities (the Guardian, 2017).
The use of Bollywood celebrities endorsing such products sways the public
into buying them, further increasing sales for skin care manufacturers.
In 2006, the skin care market was valued at $200M, growing at 15% per
annum, with Fair & Lovely holding a commanding 70% market share
(Marketing Practice, 2006). According to a report by market researchers
ACNielsen, the market has doubled in value in the last four years and is
growing at 18% per year (Rajesh, 2017). Therefore, it can be said that the
skin-care market is being dominated by a skin-whitening brand which
further insinuates their success in luring consumers through dwelling on
their insecurities.
Fair & Lovely is the biggest skin whitening cream in the global market and
was first launched in India in 1975 (fairandlovely.in, 2017). The Fair &
Lovely website asserts that when the product was introduced, it provided
effective and visible fairness to women (ibid). However, there is no proof
that that this statement is true. Fair & Lovely claim their products give hope
to millions of women in Asia, for the world to perceive their appearance in a
positive light (www.fairandlovely.in, 2017). Fair & lovely exhibits their
products as a ‘need’ and not a ‘want’, and without it you cannot face to go
outside. Fair & Lovely is a brand under Unilever, a British/Dutch company.
It can be said the creators of this brand saw skin insecurities as a way to
make money and affected their morale through deterioration.
Global brands like Estee Lauder and L’Oreal mainly used caucasian
models. Moreover, most Korean and Japanese advertisements used white

7. European or American models. In Korea, Hongkong and Japan, local
models aren’t usually the first pick to appear on adverts for global brands.
However, 82% percentof Indian ads used Indian models or celebrities (Eric
P.H et.al., 2008). Global beauty contests along side with Bollywood are the
reason indian viewers are different from other Asian societies. From 1990-
2006,11 Indian models won these titles. This has made brands change the
way they only display Caucasian models but also use local models.
Furthermore, Bollywood dominates over Hollywood in India which reduces
the impact of Hollywood ideologies and beauty standards on Indians.
Indian celebrities appear to be the presiding body ideals for Indian women
(ibid).
Nonetheless,Bollywood togetherwith Indian advertising agencies still show
preference for lighter skinned models. Recognised actresses support
certain beauty products and fans follow by using these products, in hopes
of imitating their idols.
Their argument is that they are giving people what they want to see or what
people deem as beautiful (www.DW.com, 2017). The issue with this is the
social standards it channels. Spreading these notions of beauty often leave
women who do not fit within this standard to struggle with appearance and
self-confidence (Eric P.H et.al., 2008). Women and men feel pressured by
what society claims as beauty, and hence are willing to do whatever it
takes to feel beauty. The beauty industry is very large and has been
expanding for years, with optimistic projections. With new products
launching frequently, the public cannot wait to get the latest beauty trends
(ibid).

8. Products such as Fair & Lovely makes dark complexion paler, but not
white. This means that after using the product, skin becomes greyer/paler,
but not fair/white. As companies do not want demand for their product to
stop, they advertise that ultimate beauty is white as cotton, hence people
are never happy with the shade of pale they are. Thus, they continue to buy
skin-whitening products and companies continue to give them hopes of
unachievable complexions (Karnani, 2007). Figure 2 is an example of fair
and lovely advert.
Complexion not only affects a woman’s beauty perception but also marital
prospects,job prospects, social status, and earning potential in many Asian
countries(Ashikari 2003b; Goon and Craven 2003; Leslie 2004). Mamata,
a girl from Bengal, poisoned herself to death, because she was repeatedly
declined for marriage arrangements due to her dark skin.This issue of dark-
skin created a painful life for Mamata, leading her to take her own life.
Unfortunately, Mamata is not the only woman to have taken her life
because of dark-skin insecurities.In 2014,a 32-year-old school teacher set
herself on fire after relentless taunts from her own family about her dark
complexion (Huffington Post India, 2017). To many in the Western world,
the obsession of fair skin might seem as an insignificant issue, but many
lives are affected by it every day. A large amount of money is spent on
brides before weddings to lighten their skin colour in order for them to look
their best at the ceremony (the Guardian, 2017).

9. To achieve change there needs to be a way for Indian media to link dark
skin with beauty, strength and success. Many campaigns fight against
these companies and attempt to raise awareness about inclusivity of
beauty beyond colour. Kavitha Emmanuel the creator of Women of Worth
campaign is an Indian NGO, introduced in 2009, standing up to the bias
towards lighter skin. It is not “anti-white”, but about including beauty beyond
colour. The campaign is supported by the Bollywood actor Nandita Das and
offers people a forum to reveal their personal stories of skin colour injustice
(the Guardian, 2017).
In 2016, three students at the University of Texas, Austin, started Unfair &
Lovely, an Instagram campaign opposing this issue. The #unfairandlovely
hashtag invited darker-skinned individuals to share photos of themselves
(The Guardian, 2017).
Fatima Lodhi, a Pakistani young woman, introduced the country’s first anti-
colourism movement.called Dark is Divine. Now, she leads talks at schools
to make students aware about skin colour discrimination (The Guardian,
2017). Women’s attitudes are changing as their confidence rises, from
education, employment and financial independence outside home (ibid).
However, these campaigns face colossal issues, since their efforts are not
supported by the advertising budgets of the cosmetics and film industries.
They are only able to afford print and social media which is incomparable to

10. big cosmetic brands as their ads are displayed in magazines, billboards,
web banners, and television (Segran, 2017).
Ultimately, substantial change will only arise when these powerful
industries feel pressured to include more comprehensive perceptions of
beauty in their adverts. Thus, this helps to calibrate consumer preferences
from the top down (ibid). If this is achieved, the market will be lovely and
fair.

11. Appendices
Figure. 1
(Parameswaran and Cardoza, 2009)
Figure. 2
(FairandLovely.in, 2017)
Figure. 3

12. (FairandLovely.in, 2017)
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