In Lothian on the southern shore of the Firth of Forth, around a majestic castle, we find the capital of Scotland. A city that uniquely embodies the history and culture of its country.
This guide will lead you through the contorted streets where you can discover something new behind every corner.
After trying all the possibilities this city has to offer in every sector, you will realize that Edinburgh Castle is surrounded by as much greatness as it has on its own.
Team CTR
3. In Lothian on the southern shore of the Firth of Forth, around a
majestic castle, we find the capital of Scotland. A city that uniquely
embodies the history and culture of its country.
Auld Reekie (“Old Smokey”) is the nickname which was given to
Edinburgh because of the constantly smouldering chimneys of the
factories of former times. Like Rome it was built on seven hills.
With an overwhelming number of ways to be explored, Edinburgh‘s
visitors should have a notion on what to do and what to expect
when entering the area. Also, they have to prepare for some of the
rather ‚dreich days‘ (Scottish saying for cold and damp weather).
Not only does Edinburgh offer traditional Scottish tourist
experiences like haggis, pubs and kilts. It has become a venue of
different generations and cultures that benefit
from each other.
The sheer amount of places filled with history and
myths still plays an important part in today‘s vibrant
youth culture. The addition of influences and flavours
from all around the world are a part of the special
charm of the city. This should break the last bits
of any misconceptions left about a raw, completely
conservative Edinburgh.
From high up Arthur‘s Seat down to Portobello beach, through
the Old and New Town there is much to find, whether for people
preferring urban life or admirers of nature. If you are willing to get
in touch with Edinburgh‘s facets and know where to look, you will
be able to find new things and perspectives. It is perfect to enrich
your life regarding the own preferences as well as unfamiliar, yet
exciting experiences and encounters.
This guide will lead you through the contorted streets where you
can discover something new behind every corner.
After trying all the possibilities this city has to offer in every sector,
you will realize that Edinburgh Castle is surrounded by as much
greatness as it has on its own.
Artur Sommer, Veronique Maaß
Introduction
4. nce upon a time there was a mountain
created from the depths of the earth. Picts
came in the 5th century to create a safe
and happy life in a place which was easy
to defend. There were Anglo-Saxons and Northumbrians
fighting for more than 600 years over the control of the
mighty position. The great King of Scotland, Malcom
III., raised the first houses and his armed fortress out
of the volcanic rocks. The early Edinburgh was born in
the 11th century. Under the protection of the Castle and
Holyrood Abbey the young and magnificent city grew
and flourished. The Royal Mile began its victory march
of being the main street of Edinburgh and connected the
two main buildings.
The hostile Scots and the English were struggling about
the reign of the castle. In 1437, Edinburgh became the
powerful capital of Scotland and went on growing.
The harmonious communal life was unsettled by the
religious disunity in the 16th century. The significant
politicianJohnKnoxledtheReformationin Scotlandand
Calvinism became the dominant religion.
The following years were the darkest in Edinburgh’s
history. The population was weakened after hell found a
placeonearthandmostof Edinburghburneddown.This
great misfortune opened the doors to the Black Death –
and he ruled with an iron fist.
In1603,JamesVI,Kingof ScotlandandEngland,removed
his seat of regency from Holyrood Palace to London.
Thereby, the Act of Union of 1707was initiated and Great
Britain was formed.
Due to this union the minds of the people had opened for
cultural and scientific progress. The city was now first in
the field of medicine, literature and research through the
University of Edinburgh.
Until 1760 the steep Castle Rock, the city wall and the
artificial lake Nor Loch prevented the ongoing growth in
width.Togive25.000peopleahome,edificeswentupto15
levels high. These were Europe‘s first skyscrapers, which
were called “Lands”, where all the different social classes
lived together in one house. Since the mid-18th century
the big buildings started to collapse under the weight of
the many people living inside.
The desperate major of Edinburgh was forced to expand
thecityandproclaimedtheNewTowndesigncompetition.
James Craig won the competition and designed the first
planned city of theworld: the New Town. Within 80 years
the New Town and three bridges where built to connect
the two parts to become one city.
Nowadays,EdinburghisthesecondlargestcityofScotland
and the hometown of the Scottish Parliament.
Now all 483,000 inhabitants live happily ever after…
Maxi Lauterbach, Veronique Maaß
Auld Reekie and
the Seven Hills
O
5. 9
History
Edinburgh Castle
The most noticeable site of
Edinburgh is of course the
Edinburgh Castle. Having existed
since ancient times this fortress
became a home for Scottish royalty
such as Queen Margaret, David
I and Mary Queen of Scots. The
whole castle complex is a little town
itself, including different buildings,
squares and viewpoints. A paid
audio guide is recommended for
those who want to find out more
about the history of the Castle.
There is only one way and exit so
you can never get lost. For those
who are into military history
the Castle provides three places
of interest: the Royal Dragoon
Guards Museum with a permanent
exhibition on horses; the Royal
Scots Museum and the National
War Museum that explore over 400
years of Scottish military history.
Finally there is a huge building
which is a Memorial for victims of
WWI. While exploring don’t forget
to watch the time – a One o’Clock
Gun fires at 1pm each day except
Sunday.
Enjoy the tranquility in the tiny
St Margaret Chapel, the oldest
building in the Castle and perhaps
in Edinburgh. Before going on
look down – on a little promontory
there is a cemetery of soldiers‘
dogs. Take some pictures of
the spectacular view
of Edinburgh‘s
landscape and
then go on to
the breathtaking
heart of the
Castle. Don’t miss
the underground
entrance to David’s
Tower – a dark
medieval labyrinth telling
scary legends of the past.
The main square of the Castle
starts with the Royal Palace.
Visit the chamber where Mary
Stuart gave birth to her son and
future great King James VI and
I. Then go straight to the Great
Hall. Completed in 1511 for King
James IV it was later remade in an
arsenal, so all walls are covered
with spears and swords. At
weekends watch out for
the live demonstration
of renaissance musical
i n s t r u m e n t s
performed by
an actor in
a historical
costume. One
of the most
fascinating and
popular exhibits
to see here are the
Scottish regalia also
known as Honours of
Scotland. Observe its interesting
story and the history of coronation
in a special museum next to the
Great Hall. On the way to the exit
you find a little hall with panoramic
windows and comfortable seats,
perfect to relax for a while before
leaving.
The queues for tickets in summer
are long, so pre-booking online is
recommended.
Olga Sviridova
Castle
Castlehill Edinburgh
Opening times:
Oct–Mar 9.30am–5pm;
Apr–Sept 9.30am–6pm
Admission: £16 adults,
£16,50 in summer
6. 11
History
During the 19th century
many medical
inventions were
made. Therefore,
loads of corpses
were needed
for anatomical
research. After
a change of law,
crime was punished
less radically. So the
source of criminals, used
after execution for dissection,
dried up. Medics needed
more bodies, so they
started paying well
for them, no matter
where they came
from. William
Burke and his
mistress Helen
MacDougal came
to the guesthouse
of William Hare and
his wife. Once they owed
them the rent for their room.
Surgeon’s Hall
Museum
The Royal College of
Surgeons of Edinburgh
Nicolson Street
0131 527 1600
Another guest died under natural
circumstances and the
idea of selling the
body to cover the
debts, grew in
their minds.
Burke and
Hare started
a body
s n a t c h i n g
business as
professional
re s u r re c t i o n
men. Stealing
freshly buried
bodies from the
cemetery and morgues
became a fad in these years and
was a good income. Watchmen
were acquired to look after the
buried people. To ensure a rest in
peace, watchtowers were built on
many cemeteries. The fresher the
corpses, the better the paying.
Soon, digging out dead people
was not enough for Burke and
Hare and they started killing.
Burke invented a way of killing
(still known as “burking”), without
leaving a sign of murder – which
was important for the sale. Luring
more or less random people into
Hare’s guesthouse or even on the
street, Burke and Hare killed 17
people. They sold the bodies for
£7-£15 (depending on age and
condition of the person)
to their principal
customer Dr.
Robert Knox.
Accidentally,
the married
c o u p l e
n a m e d
Gray found
out about
the morbid
business and
went to the
police - even after
MacDougal tried to
bribe them with an annuity for
life. The police actually didn’t have
a proof of the cruel crimes the two
couples had committed. The Lord
Advocate (prosecutor) offered
Hare amnesty, if he would confess
– so he did. Burke was hanged in
1829. Hare went to Australia and
the two women barely escaped
getting lynched. Dr. Robert Knox
was never indicted.
The death masks of Burke and Hare
are presented in the Surgeon’s Hall
Museum, as well as a wallet made
out of Burke’s skin. His skeleton is
still in the possession of Edinburgh
University Anatomy Museum.
Maxi Lauterbach
Edinburgh University
Anatomy Museum
3 Doorway,
Medical School,
Teviot Place
0131 650 1000
Opening times:
10am–4pm (last
admission 3.30pm)
Body snatching
by Burke & Hare
7. 13
History
Craigmiller Castle
Craigmiller is one of Scotland’s
best preserved ruined castles.
You can easily reach it by the
26 Lothian Bus. It was built
in the mid-15th century with
Mary Queen of Scots as a
regular visitor. Her supporters
met there and signed the
notorious “Craigmiller Bond”.
This committed them to kill her
husband, which they did half a
year afterwards.
Nowadays Craigmiller Castle
is a ruin, open to the public.
It is possible to visit the
Craigmiller Castle Park as well
as the Castle itself. Each room
is well signposted, providing
information to read and giving
an idea of what it was like to
live in late-medieval times.
The highlight is to go up on
the Tower house. The view is
unforgettable as you
can see for miles and miles. It is
like being King or Queen for a
few hours and discovering your
own castle. Sometimes it can be
a bit difficult to find your way
through the old rooms because
it is like a labyrinth. But sitting
on the tower or finding the
wine cellar makes the searching
worth it.
Despite being a ruin,
Craigmiller allows a person with
imagination to enter history if
you just give yourself enough
space and time. It is definitely
a must-see place in Edinburgh.
Veronique Maaß
Craigmillar Castle
Road,
Opening times:
Apr-Sept, Mon-Sun:
9.30am-5.30pm
031 661 4445
Admission: £5.50
8. 15
History
Deacon Brodie
In the 18th century, Deacon
Brodie (1741-1788) was a
respected member of
Edinburgh’s society,
a well-known
cabinet-maker,
member of the
Town Council
and deacon of
the Incorporation
of Wrights and
Masons. However, he
became history when his
dark side appeared. His secret
was gambling and he
had two mistresses
and 5 children.
Part of his job as
a cabinet-maker
was the making
and repairing of
security locks.
Together with
Brown, Smith and
Ainslie he started
copying the keys of his
Deacon Brodies
Tavern
435 Lawnmarket
Opening times: daily
10am-1am
0131 225 6531
customers and then robbing them
during the night. Their last coup
was an armed raid on His Majesty‘s
Excise Office in Chessel‘s Court.
Ainslie and Brown turned King’s
Evidence after they were caught.
Brodie fled to the Netherlands
but was arrested in Amsterdam.
Brodie and Smith were executed
by hanging on Tollbooth, on 1st
October 1788. The irony – Brodie
himself had recently designed
the gibbet he was hanged on.
Nevertheless, Brodie tried to
escape his fate and bribed the
hangman to ignore a steel collar
and remove his body fast, but
he did not survive. Despite the
rumours of him being alive, he
was buried anonymously. The
dark story inspired Robert Louis
Stevenson to the double-life novel
of the Strange Case of Dr. Jekyll
and Mr. Hyde.
Maxi Lauterbach
9. 17
History
Greyfriars Bobby is like the 19th
century Grumpy Cat.
He was loved by everyone and
one of the favorite subjects for
everyday conversation at that
time.
The tale, which has been told since
then, is about the loyalty of a dog
to his master.
Bobby was a small Skye Terrier and
loved friend of a policeman called
John Gray, who died in 1858.
After this dark moment in Bobby’s
life, he stayed at the grave of his
master for 14 years.
Some contemporary witnesses
tell the story of Bobby’s
daily routine to walk to
a nearby café when the
one o’clock gun was
fired in order to get
lunch until he died at
the age of 16.
It was against the law
to bury animals at the Greyfriars
Graveyard. However, the people
were so impressed by the loyalty
the dog had shown and honoured
this by burying him right in front of
the cemetery, as close as possible
to his master.
Nowadays, it is a common tradition
to lay down a stick in front of
Bobby’s gravestone to show him
respect.
In 1872 William Brodie created
a life-size statue of Greyfriars
Bobby, which stands in front of
the graveyard entrance. In the last
few years people tended to rub
the nose of the statue to
have good luck, which is
actually destroying this
piece of Edinburgh
history.
Maxi Lauterbach
Greyfriar‘s Bobby
For more
information
visit the official
website
A fish hawker deserted by her
husband doesn’t sound like a
story to mention. Maggie Dickson
became a legend after being
hanged.
She became pregnant
by another man
and tried to hide it.
The baby was born
prematurely and it
died a few days later.
Leaving the body on
the riverbank of the River
Tweed, it was found and traced
back to her. She was hanged
on the Grassmarket. During the
transport to Musselburgh, where
she was supposed to be buried, a
knocking came out of her coffin.
Half-Hangit Maggie was actually
still alive. Maggie was granted
amnesty because she was already
pronounced as dead and lived on
with a happy life for 30-40 more
years.
Maxi Lauterbach
Maggie Dickson
For more
information check
out the review
about Maggie
Dikson‘s Pub