Apparel licensing strategy to reduce environmental, social and health impact of toxic denim.

1. Responsible Apparel Licensing Initiative: Fighting the Toxic Denim Trend
In our daily lives we use eco sensitive buzzwords as part of our daily vocabulary. We
look at our energy resources (Green), coffee (Fair-Trade) and the foods we eat
(Organic, No GMO’s) but have we forgotten something? Perhaps the clothing we
wear everyday? What is our clothing made from? What chemicals are in our clothing
& the clothing we buy for our children? Is it harmful to wear? Did my fancy new
jeans pollute the environment? Do we have options to choose from in this space too?
As a little background, in China there is a city that is so polluted they can’t give the
houses away. Who is responsible for polluting this once scenic and fertile area? We
are all is the answer because we purchased denim that was treated with chemicals
that were literally poured into the local waterways. Xintang is the denim capital of
the world. It’s a fact that one in three pairs of jeans sold globally are made in this
industrial town. At first sight its production statistics are impressive. The factories
there produce 300 million denim articles a year, employing 220,000 people. Around
two-thirds of the denim clothing made in China is produced in Xintang.
The local environmental & health impact is beyond disastrous. Greenpeace recently
published a survey, which found that at three sampling sites in Xintang, the amounts
of lead, copper and cadmium in the riverbed exceeded national "soil environmental
quality standards". This included a sample of river mud with cadmium levels 128
times over the limit and another where the water pH level was 11.95. Water in all
the streams in the area apart from one is black and stinking. The White River is the
worst with slow flowing water that is as black as Chinese ink. Workers are known
for their bad smell because their clothes smell of potassium permanganate, which is
sprayed on the denim to make it look pre-used.
So what can we do to change the toxic denim trend? Christopher Ursin, a well-known
NYC based brand-licensing consultant announced a new initiative to develop
environmentally safe denim programs for his clients.
The new “Environmentally Safe Denim” initiative will focus on eliminating the use of
toxic chemicals in the manufacturing of denim apparel. Technology exists to use
environmentally friendly processes to create fashionable denim apparel at a
reasonable cost. Ursin believes “It should no longer be acceptable to produce denim
apparel that was produced with toxic chemicals just to keep the cost slightly lower.”
Brands that participate in this program will reduce global environmental pollution
& provide consumers a garment that is free of toxins and much is safer to wear.
“If stakeholders including brand owners/licensors step up and take responsibility
for the overall development of licensed products and not just the end product our
industry can make a big difference one pair of jeans at a time. We will be able to
convey to consumers that they can make a difference by using their purchase power
to make a difference in the environment and eliminate toxins in the clothing we

2. wear.” Ursin knows retailers will initially be resistant to this concept but as brands
promote the benefits of non-toxic denim apparel the trend will drive sales.