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DISSERTATION REPORT
ON
LAC BANGLE MAKING IN MUZAFFARPUR
B. Arch 1st
Year
2016-17
Submittedby
ASIFANWAR
Guidedby
Ar. MOHAMMAD JUNED
Ar. SANA ZEHRA
ASIFANWAR
ASIF ANWAR, 1ST Year, F/O OF ARCHITECTURE AND EKISTICS, JAMIA MILLIA ISLAMIA
FACULTY OF ARCHITECTURE & EKISTICS
JAMIA MILLIA ISLAMIA
NEW DELHI-110025
Certificate
In the partial fulfilment of the B. Arch (1st
Year) degree program, this is to certify that ‘ASIF ANWAR’ has
worked on the Dissertation Reportentitled “LAC Bangle making in MUZAFFARPUR” under my guidance
and supervision.
Ar. MOHAMMAD JUNED Ar. SANA ZEHRA
DissertationGuide DissertationGuide
Ar. MOHAMMAD ZIAUDDIN Prof.S.M Akhtar
Headof Department Dean
EXTERNAL EXAMINER1st
EXTERNAL EXAMINER2nd
ASIFANWAR
ASIF ANWAR, 1ST Year, F/O OF ARCHITECTURE AND EKISTICS, JAMIA MILLIA ISLAMIA
Declaration
I, ASIF ANWAR, hereby declare that the Dissertation entitled ‘LAC Bangle making in MUZAFFARPUR’
submitted in the partial fulfilment of the requirement for the award of the degree of Bachelor of
Architecture (1st
Year) is my original research work and that the information taken from secondary
sourcesisgivendue citationsandreferences.
ASIFANWAR
Date: 21/04/2017 Bachelor of Architecture (1st
Year)
Place:NewDelhi
2016-17
ASIFANWAR
ASIF ANWAR, 1ST Year, F/O OF ARCHITECTURE AND EKISTICS, JAMIA MILLIA ISLAMIA
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
I have taken efforts in this project. However, it would not have been possible without the kind support
and helpof many individuals. Iwouldliketoextendmysincere thankstoall of them.
I am highly indebted to “AR MOHAMMAD JUNED” and “AR SANA ZEHRA “for their guidance and
constant supervision as well as for providing necessary information regarding the project & also for
theirsupportincompletingthe project.
I would like to express my special gratitude and thanks to industry persons for giving me such attention
and time.
My thanks and appreciations also go to my colleague in developing the project and people who have
willinglyhelpedme outwiththeirabilities
ASIFANWAR
ASIF ANWAR, 1ST Year, F/O OF ARCHITECTURE AND EKISTICS, JAMIA MILLIA ISLAMIA
Contents
MUZAFFARPUR ...........................................................................................................................5
HISTORY OF BANGLES........................................................................................................................6
TECHNICAL ASPECTS OF GLASS BANGLES ............................................................................................7
INSPECTION AND QUALITY CONTORL..................................................................................................8
TYPES OF BANGLES............................................................................................................................9
i. WOODEN BANGLES ................................................................................................................9
ii. GLASS BANGLES......................................................................................................................9
iii. METAL BANGLES................................................................................................................... 10
iv. LAC BANGLES ....................................................................................................................... 10
BANGLE INDUSTRY IN MUZAFFARPUR........................................................................................... 11
Bangle Industry Overview............................................................................................................. 11
TECHNOLOGY AT BANGLE INDUSTRY ............................................................................................ 13
ISSUES AT MUZAFFARPUR BANGLE INDUSTRY................................................................................... 13
Rampant use of child- laborers:........................................................................................................ 14
Owners accuse workers and the government:................................................................................... 14
Government implementing pro- employer polices:............................................................................ 15
MARKET.......................................................................................................................................... 15
NEED FOR CHANGE.......................................................................................................................... 16
Summary of the Units in the Muzaffarpur Cluster.............................................................................. 17
SIGNIFICANCE IN TRADITION AND CULTURE...................................................................................... 17
The Different Bangles and their Significance.................................................................................. 18
CONCLUSION...................................................................................................................................20
GLAMOUR REVIEWS ........................................................................................................................ 20
GALLERY.......................................................................................................................................... 21
INTERVIEW......................................................................................................................................22
REFRENCES......................................................................................................................................23
Bibliography....................................................................................................................................23
ASIFANWAR
ASIF ANWAR, 1ST Year, F/O OF ARCHITECTURE AND EKISTICS, JAMIA MILLIA ISLAMIA
MUZAFFARPUR
(Fig 1)
Muzaffarpur is a city in Bihar which is 70 km away from Patna and Its 73.6% of the population lives in
rural area.it is important market center. It is known as sweet city because of litchis. It has been famous
for lac bangles worksand itssmall-scaleindustryisfamous throughoutthe world.
Four hundred bangle industries are registered in Muzaffarpur, making different types of bangles
products.in making these products they use natural gas over coal and these 40% production of these
unitare exportedtodifferentcountries.
Muzaffarpur
ASIFANWAR
ASIF ANWAR, 1ST Year, F/O OF ARCHITECTURE AND EKISTICS, JAMIA MILLIA ISLAMIA
HISTORY OF BANGLES
(Fig 2)
Bangles—made from sea shell, copper, bronze, gold, agate, chalce dony etc. have been excavated from
multiple archaeological sites throughout India A figurine of a dancing girl wearing bangles on her left
arm— has beenexcavatedfrom Mohenjo-Daro(2600BC).
Other early examples of bangles in India include copper samples from the excavations at Mahurjhari—
soon followed by the decorated bangles belonging to the Mauryan empire (322–185 BCE), and the gold
bangle samples from the historic site of Takshila (6th century BC). Decorated shell bangles have also
been excavated from multiple Mauryan sites. Other features included copper rivets and gold-leaf inlay
insome cases.
ASIFANWAR
ASIF ANWAR, 1ST Year, F/O OF ARCHITECTURE AND EKISTICS, JAMIA MILLIA ISLAMIA
TECHNICAL ASPECTS OF GLASS BANGLES
MANUFACTURINGOF LAC BANGLES
(Fig 3)
Process outline: The process of manufacture of lac bangles is highly skilled labor oriented one
comprising of the following main operations: - 1. Collecting good lac 2. Parson Making 3. Bangle spiral /
coil forming the batch materials like sand, soda ash, lime stone felsfar, borax etc. with other additives
and coloring materials in a suitable proportion are mixed thoroughly manually and fed into the pot
places in pot furnace. The raw material is melted in the furnace at a temperature of about 1300 – 1400
C to obtain molten glass. The molten glass is drawn from the pot of the furnace with the help of the
iron pipe and formed into job to gather required quantity of glass for formation into prison on iron
plates. The prison of different colors is joined together and reheated in an auxiliary furnace to obtain
required designs. The reheated prison is then transferred to Belar furnace from which the glass is
further drawn into spiral/coil of bangles on the spindle counted and rotated manually at uniform rate of
revaluation synchronizing with the manually at the other end of the furnace. The formation of
spiral/coil on the spindle from the softened glass person required a highly-specialized skill and that is
why, these workers a highest paid staff in the bangle factory. The diameter of the bangle spiral mainly
depends upon the diameter of the spindle used in the formation of spirals and the thickness is
ASIFANWAR
ASIF ANWAR, 1ST Year, F/O OF ARCHITECTURE AND EKISTICS, JAMIA MILLIA ISLAMIA
controlled by exerting the requisite amount of full on the softened glass person required highly
specialized skill in the bangle why, these workers are highest paid staff in the bangle factory. The
diameter of the bangle spiral mainly depends upon the diameter of the spindle used in the formation of
the spirals and the thickness is controlled by exerting the requisite amount of full on the softened glass
person by spiral are maker (tarwalla) having highly skilled job. Spiral are then taken out from the spindle
and cut with the help of a pencil cutter to separate out the single pieces of bangles from spiral. These
cut or unjointed bangles are then sent for joining of end, finishing cutting & polishing, decoration etc.
The finishedproductsare thenneatlypackedormade into torusfor sale.
INSPECTIONAND QUALITY CONTORL
There are standards/specification for lac bangles and hence these are to be made as per the consumer
requirement and prevailing facing. But it is very essential to take suitable measures to maintain the
quality in selection and mixing of the raw material, batch composition, melting of glass
uniformity in sizes and shapes of end products and there durability. The bangle should be free
from the small sees, bubbles and minor defects which can be controlled by proper melting of
glass. The durability of the lac bangle is mainly dependent upon the composition of the batch and
amount of seed& bubblesretainedinthe bangles.
Power required: As all the operation are manual, the requirement of power is only for the lighting
purpose havingloadof 5 kw.
Pollutioncontrol:
For the pollution control, The auxiliary furnaces also should lane at least the hood types of
arrangement on the top for exit of the gases. With installation of proper instrument like or sat
apparatus, optical paraments, letter combustion results k could be achieved and hence minimizing
the pollution. Vacum cleaner and dust collectors are also proposed t minimize the dust pollution at
the l place of batch preparation.
Energy Conservation:
The furnace should be constructed heat efficient as for as possible by selecting proper types of
refractors of good quality. For measurement of temperature, optical pyrometer may be l used
which will help in maintaining the k required degree of temp and not losing the heat by keeping
higher temp of the furnace which is possible k if it is maintained only j k witheye and experience.
The better combustion of the fuel can be achieved if the requisite quantity of excess air is fed into
ASIFANWAR
ASIF ANWAR, 1ST Year, F/O OF ARCHITECTURE AND EKISTICS, JAMIA MILLIA ISLAMIA
the furnace which can be controlled with the help l of the results obtained from or sat apparatus.
The percentage of Co 2, Co and 02 are the indication of complete or incomplete combustion. It
also indicator whether the excess air quantity is more or less. More excess air also cools the furnace
whichintur requiring more heat energy to maintain the same degree of temperatures.
TYPES OF BANGLES
i. WOODEN BANGLES
Wood isgoodmaterial to designbanglesandcanbe usedto show many patterns through
carvings. India boasts of forests offering a variety of rich exotic woods. This wood showing rich grain
patternisselectedformakingthese exclusive woodenbangles.
(fig 4)
ii. GLASS BANGLES
Glass bangles are the most common and demanded bangles in the bangle industry . Mainly
glassbanglesare manufacturedin Muzaffarpur.
Archaeologist have unearthed bangles fragments of a material they termed” vitreous paste” if this
material have beenheatedtoahighenough temperature,the resultwouldhave beenkindof glass.
(fig 5)
ASIFANWAR
ASIF ANWAR, 1ST Year, F/O OF ARCHITECTURE AND EKISTICS, JAMIA MILLIA ISLAMIA
iii. METAL BANGLES
These are very popular because of their durability these bangles can be made of gold, silver,
bronze, copper brass and alloy. They can be very expensive too because of gold and other costly
metal.
(fig 6)
iv. LAC BANGLES
Lac is the scarlet resinous secretion of a number of species of lac insects, of which the most
commonly cultivated species is Kerria lac . Lac jewelry, also known as lacquer jewelry, originated in
Bihar and has gained considerable popularity in India today. Lac jewelry is available in versatile designs,
which add to its beauty. Among the various items in lac jewelry, the bangles need a special mention.
Bangles made of Lac are of bright color and glass work done on them makes them more attractive.
people of Bihar believe that lac bangles bring good omen to those who wear them. They are very
popularin Bihar andRajasthanlatelyare beingmade inotherparts of country too.
(fig 7)
ASIFANWAR
ASIF ANWAR, 1ST Year, F/O OF ARCHITECTURE AND EKISTICS, JAMIA MILLIA ISLAMIA
BANGLE INDUSTRY IN MUZAFFARPUR
Bangle making of Bihar is largely centered around the region of Muzaffarpur. It is a very lucrative small
scale industry of the region. The artisans involved in bangle making collect their raw material from the
nearby forests, mainly lac and the natural colors used in the making of these colorful roundels. Bright
and brilliant colors are typically used in bangles. They range from vermilion to bright yellow, from
resplendent reds and purples to shining golds. The artisans from Muzaffarpur specialize in the making
of a special kinds of bangles called the lahathi. They form an integral part of Bihar's bangle making
tradition. These lac bangles are wonderfully decorated in bright colors usually orange and yellow and
theyare stripedexquisitely.Oftensmall mirrorlike glasspiecesare adornedonthe bangles.
(fig 8)
Bangle Industry Overview
Accounting for about 70% of the total glass production in small-sector in India, with nearly 5-6 lakh
people employed directly and plenty more employed indirectly with this sector. The cluster holds a
unique position of consisting of Micro, Small and Medium units located at one place and being capable
of producing a variety of glass products ranging from art ware, chandeliers to multicolored bangles ,
ASIFANWAR
ASIF ANWAR, 1ST Year, F/O OF ARCHITECTURE AND EKISTICS, JAMIA MILLIA ISLAMIA
generating an annual business of more than Rs 2000 crore. There is a large agglomeration of small scale
units in this town, which are engaged in the manufacture of hollow wares, decorative items, glass beads,
etc.Around50% of the total produce of these unitsare exportedtodifferentcountries.
The Muzaffarpur glass industry has been able to cater to the indigenous need as well as international
demand by way of producing variety of products. It is one of a kind cluster operating in India. It is the
only cluster which is producing bangles and catering to the entire requirement of bangles in India. There
are approximately 150 bangle making and decoration units in the city which provide employment to
nearly 50,000 families. It is estimated that a single bangle passes through as many as 45 to 50 hands
before it is transformed from a mere lump of glass into the piece of disposable jewelry. Muzaffarpur
cluster specializes in making a variety of exclusive hand made products. The cluster has easy availability
to trained and skilled workers. There are estimated a thousand registered skilled craftsmen whose
generations have been engaged in the skillful tradition of making lacware . The cluster has the
advantage of having strong work specialization due to presence of specialized units for each kind of
value addition.
(fig 9)
ASIFANWAR
ASIF ANWAR, 1ST Year, F/O OF ARCHITECTURE AND EKISTICS, JAMIA MILLIA ISLAMIA
TECHNOLOGYAT BANGLE INDUSTRY
The glass industriesin Muzaffarpurhave varioustypesof furnacesformeltingglass.Theyare:
i. Tank furnace
ii. Pot furnace
iii. Muffle furnace
In addition, these units produce, colored glass items . Apart from the pot furnace, there exist a number
of other auxiliary furnaces in bangle making units in Muzaffarpur. Locally developed machinery is
employed which is maintained locally as well. This machinery uses natural gas instead of coal which was
conventionally used up till now. Use of natural gas is more eco-friendly and reduces pollution. It is also
more effective in heating glass. Each machine costs on around RS. 20,000 to RS. 70,000 which is
affordable evenbysmall industries
ISSUES AT MUZAFFARPURBANGLE INDUSTRY
While the City is recognized as Sweet city for rest of the country, workers here are enforced to work in
filthy environment with immense heat and shrill sounds without protective gear. The facilities to treat
any worker in-case of emergency are also very poor. While more than one lakh workers are directly
employed in these factories, total numbers of people involved in this business is estimated as more
than four lakh. More than three lakh workers, as estimated by the committee, are unorganized workers
in Muzaffarpur. Lots of people including children work from their homes. Since factory owners
outsource the work to home-based workers, the entire family -including women and children- generally
gets involved in such work. Such homes look like mini production units where people are engaged in
making of bangles - coloring, shaping, soldering the joints, straightening and bending and decorating of
bangles. According to the standing committee report, apart from factory owners everyone else belongs
to the working class in Muzaffarpur city, which houses the 7 lakh population. It may be interesting to
know that each bangle passes through 70 to 80 hands before it is ready for sale and each family or
productionhouse isresponsibleforone stage of bangle making.
59-year-old Avnish Kumar, who has been working in bangle industry since last 35 years, says, “It is hard
to feel the problems faced by the glass and bangle workers from outside of these industries.” You can’t
imagine the kinds of problems that we face here. We live in the fire and play with the fire, Kumar told
Newsiest .“In summer season it is like the hell. Some workers during the work pour cold water on their
ASIFANWAR
ASIF ANWAR, 1ST Year, F/O OF ARCHITECTURE AND EKISTICS, JAMIA MILLIA ISLAMIA
heads, added Kumar, who is working at different factories on daily wage basis. “Safety tools are seen
rarely. Workers should have equipped with safety-shoes while working in bangle factories; none has it
exceptinrare cases,” he added.
(fig 10)
Big factories having hundreds of employees too do not have more than six to seven toilets in their
premises; not a single toilet is reserved for women workers separately. While there is no separate lunch
room or restroom forwomenworkers,mostof the factoriesdon’thave anycanteen,he explained.
Rampant use of child- laborers:
Child labor is a reality in bangle industry here. Most of the time children work from their homes and
godowns, where they are assigned with packing and sorting works. While the children of the families,
which are fulltime involved in bangle making, do work for whole day, school-going children join the
families in bangle-making work once they return from their school. Ministry of Labor and Employment,
which is officially responsible to implement the National Child Labor Project Scheme, have opened
some schools. In its report it says that 11926 child labors have been mainstreamed in Muzaffarpur from
2005 to 2011.
Owners accuse workers and the government:
Shyam Babu, one of the contractors in bangle Industries denies allegations saying that factories are
committed to safety and welfare of the workers. “We have first-aid services in the factory and arrange
more medical facilities whenever needed. We consult private hospitals whenever required and not the
government hospitals, as labors have no in them. “Accusing the government he says that the
government does not support them anywhere and the Police harass labors when they return from
duties in the night. According to him, it is labors who demand payment on daily basis; they don’t need
payment at the end of the month. “Most of them are addicted to alcohol, and they need money every-
ASIFANWAR
ASIF ANWAR, 1ST Year, F/O OF ARCHITECTURE AND EKISTICS, JAMIA MILLIA ISLAMIA
day for that. He said that payment is decided with an understanding between labor and the contractor
and it all depends on the work not on time. But at the same time he admitted that there are only three
urinals and seven toilets in his factory where more than thousand labors work 24x7; about 250 to 300
people workinsingle shiftof eighthours.
But earliersituationwasmore problematicwhenworkersforcedtoworkfor12 hour-shift.
Governmentimplementingpro- employerpolices:
Employers have now gradually increased the working hours; moreover workers are paid less against
prescribedbythe law.
The pathetic condition of the workers shows that state has lost its grip and given free hand to
industrialists to exploit the poor people. On other hand, non-governmental organizations have poor
involvement in welfare of these workers. Unfortunately, as the Ministry of Labor and Employment
reported, they have not been granted any fund from the government. Government should notice these
violations andensure justice of poor laborsin the workplace. The most common bangles are lac bangles
and glass bangles. Lac is a type of clay and these bangles are very brittle. Brass and Silver framed
bangles are also famous for wedding purposes and have a good market in Lad Bazar. Different materials
can be used to make bangles. The price of the lac bangles are around Rs. 120 per pair while glass
bangles are cheaper and cost around Rs. 20 to Rs. 30 a dozen. The price of the bangles can depend
highlyuponthe decorationdone onthemandthe type of material usedto
MARKET
Lac bangles are the items of mass consumption in the country. And there is a large demand of it in our
country. That goes up in the festive season, special functions ,marriage occasions etc. in spite of
competition from the plastic and other bangles, the demand for the glass bangle is even increasing in
view of established characterized customary and auspicious status gained by it in the society .the glass
bangles have a very good replacement demand. This type of industry is only concentrated are
Muzaffarpurmanufacturinglacbanglesusingpotfurnace.
However, skilled labor ,required for bangles coil of person making may have to be brought from
Muzaffarpur. At these products have very good demand from ladies of lower and middle class families,
there isgoodscope forsettingupnewunitsinthisline of manufacture
ASIFANWAR
ASIF ANWAR, 1ST Year, F/O OF ARCHITECTURE AND EKISTICS, JAMIA MILLIA ISLAMIA
NEED FOR CHANGE
Muzaffarpur has not been able to establish a strong reputation in the international market due to a
clear lack of the availability of most modern technology , promotion and a lack of product
innovation/ variation. There is a continued use of primitive technology in glass melting , forming and
shaping. So, clearly , there is a lack of investment in the industry . In order to be competitive in
the world market it has to improve its infrastructure, undertake more rigorous marketing and
brand building activities. The industry needs to be cost competitive as compared to other markets
such as China and Thailand. In fact, the industry for chandeliers and fancy light is facing stiff
competition from Chinese market. Before 2002, this market used to account for approximately
30% of the total market share (Rs 80 to 100 Crore), but presently the market has reduced to
mere Rs 1 crore. The relative difference in prices and regulatory regime makes India
uncompetitive with Chinese products.
Both fuel and raw material constitute 35% each of the total cost of operations, the remaining being the
labour cost. The fuel, though subsidized, costs Rs 6,500 per 1,000 cubic meters as compared to Rs
3,600 per cubic meters in Gujarat. Further, a whopping Rs 23 per cubic meters is charged upon
exceeding the fixed quota of gas (which comes through the pipeline). Raw material, soda ash is
also priced high and has escalated from Rs. 8,000 per ton a couple of years ago to INR 13,000 a
ton presently . In China, soda ash costs Rs. 4,500 a ton. Only a handful of companies such as
Tata, Birla and Gujarat Heavy Chemicals make soda ash. There is a clear need for better quality raw
material in order to increase the quality of glass production. Besides, Muzaffarpur glass industry
has great need for a change in the present practices in the area of batch making , mixing, pot
making , preheating and transfer of pot in the furnace, batch charging and discharging the melts,
shaping and annealing. Also, there is no specialized design development practice followed in the
area of product development by the industry and the value addition is not tuned to market
demand. Due to lack of innovative design, modification and variation in the handicraft products,
it is also losing the charm in the international market. Therefore, there is great need for design
developmentandquality improvementin the utilityand decorative items.
ASIFANWAR
ASIF ANWAR, 1ST Year, F/O OF ARCHITECTURE AND EKISTICS, JAMIA MILLIA ISLAMIA
Summary of the Unitsin the Muzaffarpur Cluster
Bangle makingUnits
 Total number of units : 190
 Units not working (Due to shortage of Gas): 33
 Entrepreneurs (Owners/ Partners): 540
 Investment on Plant & Machinery: 213 Crore
 Total Investment: 413 Crore
 Total Natural gas Consumption lacIndustry: 950,000 m /day
 bangle Drawing Capacity (All Type): 1920 MT/ day
 Finishedbangle: 1230 MT/ day
 Percentage of Finishedbangle: 65%
 Share of Tableware & Container production: 49%
 Share of bangle production: 46%
 Share of lacware Art ware & Misc. production 05%
 Annual Turn Over* Rs. 2326 Crore
(*Source- Commissioner, Sales Tax, Muzaffarpur)
SIGNIFICANCEINTRADITION AND CULTURE
(fig 11)
Bangles are one of the most important ornaments that an Indian woman wears. For married women,
bangles are a considered a significant sign of their ‘Suhaag’. Even for young and single girls exhibiting
bare hands is thought to be quite inauspicious. Bangles have always been an inseparable part of Indian
culture. No wonder, bangles feature in many of our filmy and folk songs. Let us look at what makes
banglessucha special partof the Indianculture.
ASIFANWAR
ASIF ANWAR, 1ST Year, F/O OF ARCHITECTURE AND EKISTICS, JAMIA MILLIA ISLAMIA
Bangles are one of the most important ornaments that an Indian woman wears; they are considered
the most loved and important jewelry that every Indian woman has. They are part of various traditions
and customs in India and Nepal. In Hindu culture, bangles are symbol of marriage and purity, all most
every married women will have their wrist and arms covered with different bangles. In some cultures
the young and unmarried girls are also expected to wear at least one or two bangles in each wrist as,
the displayof bare handsis consideredbadandinauspicious.
Bangles are universal, it has become one of the most fashionable and funky accessory around the
world, thanks to fashion! They come in many types and varieties, ranging from vivid and colorful plastic
bracelets, expensive gold diamond jewelry to attractive and delicate glass. There are different types of
bangles – metal, plastic, shell, terra cotta, glass, gold, silver and even ivory. From simple bangles made
of metals to the ones adorned with detailed handwork and to the pieces that are set in precious
gemstones
Glass and metal bangles as compared to plastic are little expensive and are fancy too, many women
prefer to mix and match plastic, glass or metal bangles to bring the stunning effect and to match up
with occasions and one’s outfit. Gold, platinum and silver bangles are one of the most expensive and
equally favorite of all the women and are mostly worn at weddings and varieties of other occasions and
festivals. Silver bangles are worn most often during Navratri. Bangles are one of the most important
ornaments that a married woman wears, it is considered as a significant sign of their ‘Suhaag’, in other
words,theirhusband.
The DifferentBanglesand theirSignificance
 In south India, women usually adorn their wrist with green and red colored bangles. All the
brides wear green color bangles as green signifies prosperity and fertility. But not just green and
red we can find women from south India sharing their love for gold bangles generously, most of
them would have gold dazzling and jingling in their wrist. Not just limiting to adornment, every
south Indian woman when she is pregnant, in the seventh month are gifted bangles of different
colorsthrougha ritual calledValaikaapu.
 In Punjab, the newly wed brides are given ivory bangles (Chuda) that are usually teamed with
red or green bangles. This Chuda or the ivory bangles are must have and compulsory for every
brides in Rajasthan and Gujarat, the Chuda is gifted to bride by her mother and after wearing the
Chuda, the couples can perform the ‘Saat Phera’ or the seven rounds around the holy fire. They
are supposed to wear these bangles for a given period, which can go up to a month or a year
dependingonthe familiesandcustom.
 In West Bengal, the mother-in-law gifts her daughter-in-law an iron bangle before she enters
her husband’s house, this iron bangle are usually plated with gold, which gives the bangle an
ASIFANWAR
ASIF ANWAR, 1ST Year, F/O OF ARCHITECTURE AND EKISTICS, JAMIA MILLIA ISLAMIA
appealing look. Not just the iron bangle, a pair of each shell bangles and red coral bangles are
also gifted to the bride that signifies the marital status of the newlywed couple. In Orissa and
West Bengal, pola and Shankha are mandatory for all the married women, both these bangles
are cut and designed intricately. Shankha are white bangles made up of conch-shell and pola are
redbanglesmade upof redcorals.
Lately bangles have become much fashionable and trendier to match up with the current age, and
bangles would never be out of style, they will always be in vogue, as they were centuries ago. For
every different occasion, there is different bangle to suit with the flow. Like for traditional occasions
there are traditional bangles and for daily casual wear, there are light and funky bangles. Bangles are
the alpha and beta of the Indian traditions with regards to set culture and ornamentation. Every state
has a separate set of rituals that are associated with bangle, just that they are known by different
names in different states, but that does not lessen their significance and value; they are equally
importantandare much celebratedpartof richIndiantradition.
ASIFANWAR
ASIF ANWAR, 1ST Year, F/O OF ARCHITECTURE AND EKISTICS, JAMIA MILLIA ISLAMIA
CONCLUSION
Muzaffarpurisa hub in lac bangle makingindustryithaspositive aswell asmanynegative aspects
 There are manyfamiliesin Muzaffarpur relatedsomehowtothisindustry.
 Andthisindustryisprovidingthemthe basicneeds.
 Different types of bangles are in color, texture etc. which are exported to different parts of the
country.
 The atmosphere of the country is not comfortable. The amount of heat generated by the
furnace isveryhigh
 The illiteracy rate in the industry in very high almost all the people are illiterate. provisions for
educatingthe newgenerationof bangle makerisutmostimportance.
 Childlabouristhe mainproblemsof thisindustrywhichneedstobe eradicated.
 High toxic effects of chemical based colors, handled with bare hands, colors sticks to the fingers
and palmsare difficulttoremove.
GLAMOURREVIEWS
MUZAFFARPUR: In the dark and dingy lanes of Islampur locality in this town, hundreds of artisans, both
men and women work for hours mostly near the fire to manufacture colorful and shining lac or lahti
banglesof variousvarieties.The entire localityisdottedwithover150 shopssellingthesebangles.
In fact, it was at one of these shops that lahti bangles, inlaid with glass and tiny pearls, had been
manufactured for Aishwarya ahead of her wedding to Abhishek in 2007 on the specification provided by
the Bachchan family.
The shop owner, Abdul Sattar Bhai, said some people had visited him from Allahabad with the bridal
sari and wanted matching bangles to be manufactured. "We took 15 days to manufacture the bangles
as per design and color. It was a great honor for the artisans of Muzaffarpur engaged in this business,"
he said.
Most of the shops doing wholesale and retail business have attributed this business to 85-year-old Haji
Mohammad Munir.
ASIFANWAR
ASIF ANWAR, 1ST Year, F/O OF ARCHITECTURE AND EKISTICS, JAMIA MILLIA ISLAMIA
Affectionately called Baba, he had migrated here from Jaipur some seven decades ago and started
makinglahti bangles,sofamousinJaipur.
"It is because of my labour and hard work that an entire village, Chainpur Bangra in Muzaffarpur district
isinvolvedinthe manufacture of lahti bangles,"Babasaid.
GALLERY
ASIFANWAR
ASIF ANWAR, 1ST Year, F/O OF ARCHITECTURE AND EKISTICS, JAMIA MILLIA ISLAMIA
INTERVIEW
An interviewwith Mr.Sujeetownerof factoryin Muzaffarpur.
Q: How many workersare there inyourfactory.
A: There are 30 workerwhichwork accordingto shifts.
Q: What are the shifttimings.
A: From 6 am to4 pm and then6pm to 2 am.
Q: For howmany longhave youbeenworkinginthisindustry.
A: I have been in this industry from my childhood. my father and grandfather have been in this too.
But I have setup thisfactory6 yearsago.
Q: Where didyouget the raw materials.
A: We get the raw materialsfromthe glassbottles.
Q: Whichfurnace is usedinyourfactory.
A: We have 2 furnaceswith12 and 9 pots.
Q: How manypeople are literate inbangle industryorinyourfactory.
A: I don’t think so there are many people literate working in this industry. The workers comes from the
lower class so there are hardly any literate worker. In my factory there are workers coming from slums
whose family have been related to bangles for many years and working in factories without having any
education.
ASIFANWAR
ASIF ANWAR, 1ST Year, F/O OF ARCHITECTURE AND EKISTICS, JAMIA MILLIA ISLAMIA
REFRENCES
Bibliography
http://www.bollywoodshaadis.com/articles/the-true-significance-of-bangles-in-indian-culture-1665
http://www.businessnonstop.in/sme-buzz/glass-and-bangle-industries-of-Muzaffarpur-on-verge-of-
closing-down.html
http://www.youthkiawaaz.com/2012/04/bangle-industry-in-india-the-cruel-darkness-behind-the-
vibrant-hues/
http://www.shopmgd.com/blog/importance-of-bangles-in-indian-culture/
SERIAL NO NAME SOURCE
1 MAP OF MUZAFFARPUR Wikepedia.com
2 OLD BANGLES Wikipedia
3 BANGLE FACTORY Self clicked
4 WOODEN BANGLE indiamart.com
5 WOODEN BANGLE bfz.biz
6 GLASS BANGLE Indusladies.com
7 GLASS BANGLE indusladies.com
8 METAL BANGLE Styleindesign.com
9 METAL BANGLE Polyvore.com
10 LAC BANGLE Dollofindia.com
11 LAC BANGLE Jewerlrynfashion.com
12 A FACTORYIN MUZAFFARPUR Self clicked
13 MAKINGOF BANGLE Self clicked
14 CHILD LABOUR IN BANGLE INUSTRY Mikeldunham.com
15 CHILD LABOUR Mikeldunham.com
16 BANGLE SHOP valueCrafts.com
17 BANGLE IN CULTURE Cultureindia.com

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Lac Bangle Making Dissertation

  • 1. DISSERTATION REPORT ON LAC BANGLE MAKING IN MUZAFFARPUR B. Arch 1st Year 2016-17 Submittedby ASIFANWAR Guidedby Ar. MOHAMMAD JUNED Ar. SANA ZEHRA
  • 2. ASIFANWAR ASIF ANWAR, 1ST Year, F/O OF ARCHITECTURE AND EKISTICS, JAMIA MILLIA ISLAMIA FACULTY OF ARCHITECTURE & EKISTICS JAMIA MILLIA ISLAMIA NEW DELHI-110025 Certificate In the partial fulfilment of the B. Arch (1st Year) degree program, this is to certify that ‘ASIF ANWAR’ has worked on the Dissertation Reportentitled “LAC Bangle making in MUZAFFARPUR” under my guidance and supervision. Ar. MOHAMMAD JUNED Ar. SANA ZEHRA DissertationGuide DissertationGuide Ar. MOHAMMAD ZIAUDDIN Prof.S.M Akhtar Headof Department Dean EXTERNAL EXAMINER1st EXTERNAL EXAMINER2nd
  • 3. ASIFANWAR ASIF ANWAR, 1ST Year, F/O OF ARCHITECTURE AND EKISTICS, JAMIA MILLIA ISLAMIA Declaration I, ASIF ANWAR, hereby declare that the Dissertation entitled ‘LAC Bangle making in MUZAFFARPUR’ submitted in the partial fulfilment of the requirement for the award of the degree of Bachelor of Architecture (1st Year) is my original research work and that the information taken from secondary sourcesisgivendue citationsandreferences. ASIFANWAR Date: 21/04/2017 Bachelor of Architecture (1st Year) Place:NewDelhi 2016-17
  • 4. ASIFANWAR ASIF ANWAR, 1ST Year, F/O OF ARCHITECTURE AND EKISTICS, JAMIA MILLIA ISLAMIA ACKNOWLEDGEMENT I have taken efforts in this project. However, it would not have been possible without the kind support and helpof many individuals. Iwouldliketoextendmysincere thankstoall of them. I am highly indebted to “AR MOHAMMAD JUNED” and “AR SANA ZEHRA “for their guidance and constant supervision as well as for providing necessary information regarding the project & also for theirsupportincompletingthe project. I would like to express my special gratitude and thanks to industry persons for giving me such attention and time. My thanks and appreciations also go to my colleague in developing the project and people who have willinglyhelpedme outwiththeirabilities
  • 5. ASIFANWAR ASIF ANWAR, 1ST Year, F/O OF ARCHITECTURE AND EKISTICS, JAMIA MILLIA ISLAMIA Contents MUZAFFARPUR ...........................................................................................................................5 HISTORY OF BANGLES........................................................................................................................6 TECHNICAL ASPECTS OF GLASS BANGLES ............................................................................................7 INSPECTION AND QUALITY CONTORL..................................................................................................8 TYPES OF BANGLES............................................................................................................................9 i. WOODEN BANGLES ................................................................................................................9 ii. GLASS BANGLES......................................................................................................................9 iii. METAL BANGLES................................................................................................................... 10 iv. LAC BANGLES ....................................................................................................................... 10 BANGLE INDUSTRY IN MUZAFFARPUR........................................................................................... 11 Bangle Industry Overview............................................................................................................. 11 TECHNOLOGY AT BANGLE INDUSTRY ............................................................................................ 13 ISSUES AT MUZAFFARPUR BANGLE INDUSTRY................................................................................... 13 Rampant use of child- laborers:........................................................................................................ 14 Owners accuse workers and the government:................................................................................... 14 Government implementing pro- employer polices:............................................................................ 15 MARKET.......................................................................................................................................... 15 NEED FOR CHANGE.......................................................................................................................... 16 Summary of the Units in the Muzaffarpur Cluster.............................................................................. 17 SIGNIFICANCE IN TRADITION AND CULTURE...................................................................................... 17 The Different Bangles and their Significance.................................................................................. 18 CONCLUSION...................................................................................................................................20 GLAMOUR REVIEWS ........................................................................................................................ 20 GALLERY.......................................................................................................................................... 21 INTERVIEW......................................................................................................................................22 REFRENCES......................................................................................................................................23 Bibliography....................................................................................................................................23
  • 6. ASIFANWAR ASIF ANWAR, 1ST Year, F/O OF ARCHITECTURE AND EKISTICS, JAMIA MILLIA ISLAMIA MUZAFFARPUR (Fig 1) Muzaffarpur is a city in Bihar which is 70 km away from Patna and Its 73.6% of the population lives in rural area.it is important market center. It is known as sweet city because of litchis. It has been famous for lac bangles worksand itssmall-scaleindustryisfamous throughoutthe world. Four hundred bangle industries are registered in Muzaffarpur, making different types of bangles products.in making these products they use natural gas over coal and these 40% production of these unitare exportedtodifferentcountries. Muzaffarpur
  • 7. ASIFANWAR ASIF ANWAR, 1ST Year, F/O OF ARCHITECTURE AND EKISTICS, JAMIA MILLIA ISLAMIA HISTORY OF BANGLES (Fig 2) Bangles—made from sea shell, copper, bronze, gold, agate, chalce dony etc. have been excavated from multiple archaeological sites throughout India A figurine of a dancing girl wearing bangles on her left arm— has beenexcavatedfrom Mohenjo-Daro(2600BC). Other early examples of bangles in India include copper samples from the excavations at Mahurjhari— soon followed by the decorated bangles belonging to the Mauryan empire (322–185 BCE), and the gold bangle samples from the historic site of Takshila (6th century BC). Decorated shell bangles have also been excavated from multiple Mauryan sites. Other features included copper rivets and gold-leaf inlay insome cases.
  • 8. ASIFANWAR ASIF ANWAR, 1ST Year, F/O OF ARCHITECTURE AND EKISTICS, JAMIA MILLIA ISLAMIA TECHNICAL ASPECTS OF GLASS BANGLES MANUFACTURINGOF LAC BANGLES (Fig 3) Process outline: The process of manufacture of lac bangles is highly skilled labor oriented one comprising of the following main operations: - 1. Collecting good lac 2. Parson Making 3. Bangle spiral / coil forming the batch materials like sand, soda ash, lime stone felsfar, borax etc. with other additives and coloring materials in a suitable proportion are mixed thoroughly manually and fed into the pot places in pot furnace. The raw material is melted in the furnace at a temperature of about 1300 – 1400 C to obtain molten glass. The molten glass is drawn from the pot of the furnace with the help of the iron pipe and formed into job to gather required quantity of glass for formation into prison on iron plates. The prison of different colors is joined together and reheated in an auxiliary furnace to obtain required designs. The reheated prison is then transferred to Belar furnace from which the glass is further drawn into spiral/coil of bangles on the spindle counted and rotated manually at uniform rate of revaluation synchronizing with the manually at the other end of the furnace. The formation of spiral/coil on the spindle from the softened glass person required a highly-specialized skill and that is why, these workers a highest paid staff in the bangle factory. The diameter of the bangle spiral mainly depends upon the diameter of the spindle used in the formation of spirals and the thickness is
  • 9. ASIFANWAR ASIF ANWAR, 1ST Year, F/O OF ARCHITECTURE AND EKISTICS, JAMIA MILLIA ISLAMIA controlled by exerting the requisite amount of full on the softened glass person required highly specialized skill in the bangle why, these workers are highest paid staff in the bangle factory. The diameter of the bangle spiral mainly depends upon the diameter of the spindle used in the formation of the spirals and the thickness is controlled by exerting the requisite amount of full on the softened glass person by spiral are maker (tarwalla) having highly skilled job. Spiral are then taken out from the spindle and cut with the help of a pencil cutter to separate out the single pieces of bangles from spiral. These cut or unjointed bangles are then sent for joining of end, finishing cutting & polishing, decoration etc. The finishedproductsare thenneatlypackedormade into torusfor sale. INSPECTIONAND QUALITY CONTORL There are standards/specification for lac bangles and hence these are to be made as per the consumer requirement and prevailing facing. But it is very essential to take suitable measures to maintain the quality in selection and mixing of the raw material, batch composition, melting of glass uniformity in sizes and shapes of end products and there durability. The bangle should be free from the small sees, bubbles and minor defects which can be controlled by proper melting of glass. The durability of the lac bangle is mainly dependent upon the composition of the batch and amount of seed& bubblesretainedinthe bangles. Power required: As all the operation are manual, the requirement of power is only for the lighting purpose havingloadof 5 kw. Pollutioncontrol: For the pollution control, The auxiliary furnaces also should lane at least the hood types of arrangement on the top for exit of the gases. With installation of proper instrument like or sat apparatus, optical paraments, letter combustion results k could be achieved and hence minimizing the pollution. Vacum cleaner and dust collectors are also proposed t minimize the dust pollution at the l place of batch preparation. Energy Conservation: The furnace should be constructed heat efficient as for as possible by selecting proper types of refractors of good quality. For measurement of temperature, optical pyrometer may be l used which will help in maintaining the k required degree of temp and not losing the heat by keeping higher temp of the furnace which is possible k if it is maintained only j k witheye and experience. The better combustion of the fuel can be achieved if the requisite quantity of excess air is fed into
  • 10. ASIFANWAR ASIF ANWAR, 1ST Year, F/O OF ARCHITECTURE AND EKISTICS, JAMIA MILLIA ISLAMIA the furnace which can be controlled with the help l of the results obtained from or sat apparatus. The percentage of Co 2, Co and 02 are the indication of complete or incomplete combustion. It also indicator whether the excess air quantity is more or less. More excess air also cools the furnace whichintur requiring more heat energy to maintain the same degree of temperatures. TYPES OF BANGLES i. WOODEN BANGLES Wood isgoodmaterial to designbanglesandcanbe usedto show many patterns through carvings. India boasts of forests offering a variety of rich exotic woods. This wood showing rich grain patternisselectedformakingthese exclusive woodenbangles. (fig 4) ii. GLASS BANGLES Glass bangles are the most common and demanded bangles in the bangle industry . Mainly glassbanglesare manufacturedin Muzaffarpur. Archaeologist have unearthed bangles fragments of a material they termed” vitreous paste” if this material have beenheatedtoahighenough temperature,the resultwouldhave beenkindof glass. (fig 5)
  • 11. ASIFANWAR ASIF ANWAR, 1ST Year, F/O OF ARCHITECTURE AND EKISTICS, JAMIA MILLIA ISLAMIA iii. METAL BANGLES These are very popular because of their durability these bangles can be made of gold, silver, bronze, copper brass and alloy. They can be very expensive too because of gold and other costly metal. (fig 6) iv. LAC BANGLES Lac is the scarlet resinous secretion of a number of species of lac insects, of which the most commonly cultivated species is Kerria lac . Lac jewelry, also known as lacquer jewelry, originated in Bihar and has gained considerable popularity in India today. Lac jewelry is available in versatile designs, which add to its beauty. Among the various items in lac jewelry, the bangles need a special mention. Bangles made of Lac are of bright color and glass work done on them makes them more attractive. people of Bihar believe that lac bangles bring good omen to those who wear them. They are very popularin Bihar andRajasthanlatelyare beingmade inotherparts of country too. (fig 7)
  • 12. ASIFANWAR ASIF ANWAR, 1ST Year, F/O OF ARCHITECTURE AND EKISTICS, JAMIA MILLIA ISLAMIA BANGLE INDUSTRY IN MUZAFFARPUR Bangle making of Bihar is largely centered around the region of Muzaffarpur. It is a very lucrative small scale industry of the region. The artisans involved in bangle making collect their raw material from the nearby forests, mainly lac and the natural colors used in the making of these colorful roundels. Bright and brilliant colors are typically used in bangles. They range from vermilion to bright yellow, from resplendent reds and purples to shining golds. The artisans from Muzaffarpur specialize in the making of a special kinds of bangles called the lahathi. They form an integral part of Bihar's bangle making tradition. These lac bangles are wonderfully decorated in bright colors usually orange and yellow and theyare stripedexquisitely.Oftensmall mirrorlike glasspiecesare adornedonthe bangles. (fig 8) Bangle Industry Overview Accounting for about 70% of the total glass production in small-sector in India, with nearly 5-6 lakh people employed directly and plenty more employed indirectly with this sector. The cluster holds a unique position of consisting of Micro, Small and Medium units located at one place and being capable of producing a variety of glass products ranging from art ware, chandeliers to multicolored bangles ,
  • 13. ASIFANWAR ASIF ANWAR, 1ST Year, F/O OF ARCHITECTURE AND EKISTICS, JAMIA MILLIA ISLAMIA generating an annual business of more than Rs 2000 crore. There is a large agglomeration of small scale units in this town, which are engaged in the manufacture of hollow wares, decorative items, glass beads, etc.Around50% of the total produce of these unitsare exportedtodifferentcountries. The Muzaffarpur glass industry has been able to cater to the indigenous need as well as international demand by way of producing variety of products. It is one of a kind cluster operating in India. It is the only cluster which is producing bangles and catering to the entire requirement of bangles in India. There are approximately 150 bangle making and decoration units in the city which provide employment to nearly 50,000 families. It is estimated that a single bangle passes through as many as 45 to 50 hands before it is transformed from a mere lump of glass into the piece of disposable jewelry. Muzaffarpur cluster specializes in making a variety of exclusive hand made products. The cluster has easy availability to trained and skilled workers. There are estimated a thousand registered skilled craftsmen whose generations have been engaged in the skillful tradition of making lacware . The cluster has the advantage of having strong work specialization due to presence of specialized units for each kind of value addition. (fig 9)
  • 14. ASIFANWAR ASIF ANWAR, 1ST Year, F/O OF ARCHITECTURE AND EKISTICS, JAMIA MILLIA ISLAMIA TECHNOLOGYAT BANGLE INDUSTRY The glass industriesin Muzaffarpurhave varioustypesof furnacesformeltingglass.Theyare: i. Tank furnace ii. Pot furnace iii. Muffle furnace In addition, these units produce, colored glass items . Apart from the pot furnace, there exist a number of other auxiliary furnaces in bangle making units in Muzaffarpur. Locally developed machinery is employed which is maintained locally as well. This machinery uses natural gas instead of coal which was conventionally used up till now. Use of natural gas is more eco-friendly and reduces pollution. It is also more effective in heating glass. Each machine costs on around RS. 20,000 to RS. 70,000 which is affordable evenbysmall industries ISSUES AT MUZAFFARPURBANGLE INDUSTRY While the City is recognized as Sweet city for rest of the country, workers here are enforced to work in filthy environment with immense heat and shrill sounds without protective gear. The facilities to treat any worker in-case of emergency are also very poor. While more than one lakh workers are directly employed in these factories, total numbers of people involved in this business is estimated as more than four lakh. More than three lakh workers, as estimated by the committee, are unorganized workers in Muzaffarpur. Lots of people including children work from their homes. Since factory owners outsource the work to home-based workers, the entire family -including women and children- generally gets involved in such work. Such homes look like mini production units where people are engaged in making of bangles - coloring, shaping, soldering the joints, straightening and bending and decorating of bangles. According to the standing committee report, apart from factory owners everyone else belongs to the working class in Muzaffarpur city, which houses the 7 lakh population. It may be interesting to know that each bangle passes through 70 to 80 hands before it is ready for sale and each family or productionhouse isresponsibleforone stage of bangle making. 59-year-old Avnish Kumar, who has been working in bangle industry since last 35 years, says, “It is hard to feel the problems faced by the glass and bangle workers from outside of these industries.” You can’t imagine the kinds of problems that we face here. We live in the fire and play with the fire, Kumar told Newsiest .“In summer season it is like the hell. Some workers during the work pour cold water on their
  • 15. ASIFANWAR ASIF ANWAR, 1ST Year, F/O OF ARCHITECTURE AND EKISTICS, JAMIA MILLIA ISLAMIA heads, added Kumar, who is working at different factories on daily wage basis. “Safety tools are seen rarely. Workers should have equipped with safety-shoes while working in bangle factories; none has it exceptinrare cases,” he added. (fig 10) Big factories having hundreds of employees too do not have more than six to seven toilets in their premises; not a single toilet is reserved for women workers separately. While there is no separate lunch room or restroom forwomenworkers,mostof the factoriesdon’thave anycanteen,he explained. Rampant use of child- laborers: Child labor is a reality in bangle industry here. Most of the time children work from their homes and godowns, where they are assigned with packing and sorting works. While the children of the families, which are fulltime involved in bangle making, do work for whole day, school-going children join the families in bangle-making work once they return from their school. Ministry of Labor and Employment, which is officially responsible to implement the National Child Labor Project Scheme, have opened some schools. In its report it says that 11926 child labors have been mainstreamed in Muzaffarpur from 2005 to 2011. Owners accuse workers and the government: Shyam Babu, one of the contractors in bangle Industries denies allegations saying that factories are committed to safety and welfare of the workers. “We have first-aid services in the factory and arrange more medical facilities whenever needed. We consult private hospitals whenever required and not the government hospitals, as labors have no in them. “Accusing the government he says that the government does not support them anywhere and the Police harass labors when they return from duties in the night. According to him, it is labors who demand payment on daily basis; they don’t need payment at the end of the month. “Most of them are addicted to alcohol, and they need money every-
  • 16. ASIFANWAR ASIF ANWAR, 1ST Year, F/O OF ARCHITECTURE AND EKISTICS, JAMIA MILLIA ISLAMIA day for that. He said that payment is decided with an understanding between labor and the contractor and it all depends on the work not on time. But at the same time he admitted that there are only three urinals and seven toilets in his factory where more than thousand labors work 24x7; about 250 to 300 people workinsingle shiftof eighthours. But earliersituationwasmore problematicwhenworkersforcedtoworkfor12 hour-shift. Governmentimplementingpro- employerpolices: Employers have now gradually increased the working hours; moreover workers are paid less against prescribedbythe law. The pathetic condition of the workers shows that state has lost its grip and given free hand to industrialists to exploit the poor people. On other hand, non-governmental organizations have poor involvement in welfare of these workers. Unfortunately, as the Ministry of Labor and Employment reported, they have not been granted any fund from the government. Government should notice these violations andensure justice of poor laborsin the workplace. The most common bangles are lac bangles and glass bangles. Lac is a type of clay and these bangles are very brittle. Brass and Silver framed bangles are also famous for wedding purposes and have a good market in Lad Bazar. Different materials can be used to make bangles. The price of the lac bangles are around Rs. 120 per pair while glass bangles are cheaper and cost around Rs. 20 to Rs. 30 a dozen. The price of the bangles can depend highlyuponthe decorationdone onthemandthe type of material usedto MARKET Lac bangles are the items of mass consumption in the country. And there is a large demand of it in our country. That goes up in the festive season, special functions ,marriage occasions etc. in spite of competition from the plastic and other bangles, the demand for the glass bangle is even increasing in view of established characterized customary and auspicious status gained by it in the society .the glass bangles have a very good replacement demand. This type of industry is only concentrated are Muzaffarpurmanufacturinglacbanglesusingpotfurnace. However, skilled labor ,required for bangles coil of person making may have to be brought from Muzaffarpur. At these products have very good demand from ladies of lower and middle class families, there isgoodscope forsettingupnewunitsinthisline of manufacture
  • 17. ASIFANWAR ASIF ANWAR, 1ST Year, F/O OF ARCHITECTURE AND EKISTICS, JAMIA MILLIA ISLAMIA NEED FOR CHANGE Muzaffarpur has not been able to establish a strong reputation in the international market due to a clear lack of the availability of most modern technology , promotion and a lack of product innovation/ variation. There is a continued use of primitive technology in glass melting , forming and shaping. So, clearly , there is a lack of investment in the industry . In order to be competitive in the world market it has to improve its infrastructure, undertake more rigorous marketing and brand building activities. The industry needs to be cost competitive as compared to other markets such as China and Thailand. In fact, the industry for chandeliers and fancy light is facing stiff competition from Chinese market. Before 2002, this market used to account for approximately 30% of the total market share (Rs 80 to 100 Crore), but presently the market has reduced to mere Rs 1 crore. The relative difference in prices and regulatory regime makes India uncompetitive with Chinese products. Both fuel and raw material constitute 35% each of the total cost of operations, the remaining being the labour cost. The fuel, though subsidized, costs Rs 6,500 per 1,000 cubic meters as compared to Rs 3,600 per cubic meters in Gujarat. Further, a whopping Rs 23 per cubic meters is charged upon exceeding the fixed quota of gas (which comes through the pipeline). Raw material, soda ash is also priced high and has escalated from Rs. 8,000 per ton a couple of years ago to INR 13,000 a ton presently . In China, soda ash costs Rs. 4,500 a ton. Only a handful of companies such as Tata, Birla and Gujarat Heavy Chemicals make soda ash. There is a clear need for better quality raw material in order to increase the quality of glass production. Besides, Muzaffarpur glass industry has great need for a change in the present practices in the area of batch making , mixing, pot making , preheating and transfer of pot in the furnace, batch charging and discharging the melts, shaping and annealing. Also, there is no specialized design development practice followed in the area of product development by the industry and the value addition is not tuned to market demand. Due to lack of innovative design, modification and variation in the handicraft products, it is also losing the charm in the international market. Therefore, there is great need for design developmentandquality improvementin the utilityand decorative items.
  • 18. ASIFANWAR ASIF ANWAR, 1ST Year, F/O OF ARCHITECTURE AND EKISTICS, JAMIA MILLIA ISLAMIA Summary of the Unitsin the Muzaffarpur Cluster Bangle makingUnits  Total number of units : 190  Units not working (Due to shortage of Gas): 33  Entrepreneurs (Owners/ Partners): 540  Investment on Plant & Machinery: 213 Crore  Total Investment: 413 Crore  Total Natural gas Consumption lacIndustry: 950,000 m /day  bangle Drawing Capacity (All Type): 1920 MT/ day  Finishedbangle: 1230 MT/ day  Percentage of Finishedbangle: 65%  Share of Tableware & Container production: 49%  Share of bangle production: 46%  Share of lacware Art ware & Misc. production 05%  Annual Turn Over* Rs. 2326 Crore (*Source- Commissioner, Sales Tax, Muzaffarpur) SIGNIFICANCEINTRADITION AND CULTURE (fig 11) Bangles are one of the most important ornaments that an Indian woman wears. For married women, bangles are a considered a significant sign of their ‘Suhaag’. Even for young and single girls exhibiting bare hands is thought to be quite inauspicious. Bangles have always been an inseparable part of Indian culture. No wonder, bangles feature in many of our filmy and folk songs. Let us look at what makes banglessucha special partof the Indianculture.
  • 19. ASIFANWAR ASIF ANWAR, 1ST Year, F/O OF ARCHITECTURE AND EKISTICS, JAMIA MILLIA ISLAMIA Bangles are one of the most important ornaments that an Indian woman wears; they are considered the most loved and important jewelry that every Indian woman has. They are part of various traditions and customs in India and Nepal. In Hindu culture, bangles are symbol of marriage and purity, all most every married women will have their wrist and arms covered with different bangles. In some cultures the young and unmarried girls are also expected to wear at least one or two bangles in each wrist as, the displayof bare handsis consideredbadandinauspicious. Bangles are universal, it has become one of the most fashionable and funky accessory around the world, thanks to fashion! They come in many types and varieties, ranging from vivid and colorful plastic bracelets, expensive gold diamond jewelry to attractive and delicate glass. There are different types of bangles – metal, plastic, shell, terra cotta, glass, gold, silver and even ivory. From simple bangles made of metals to the ones adorned with detailed handwork and to the pieces that are set in precious gemstones Glass and metal bangles as compared to plastic are little expensive and are fancy too, many women prefer to mix and match plastic, glass or metal bangles to bring the stunning effect and to match up with occasions and one’s outfit. Gold, platinum and silver bangles are one of the most expensive and equally favorite of all the women and are mostly worn at weddings and varieties of other occasions and festivals. Silver bangles are worn most often during Navratri. Bangles are one of the most important ornaments that a married woman wears, it is considered as a significant sign of their ‘Suhaag’, in other words,theirhusband. The DifferentBanglesand theirSignificance  In south India, women usually adorn their wrist with green and red colored bangles. All the brides wear green color bangles as green signifies prosperity and fertility. But not just green and red we can find women from south India sharing their love for gold bangles generously, most of them would have gold dazzling and jingling in their wrist. Not just limiting to adornment, every south Indian woman when she is pregnant, in the seventh month are gifted bangles of different colorsthrougha ritual calledValaikaapu.  In Punjab, the newly wed brides are given ivory bangles (Chuda) that are usually teamed with red or green bangles. This Chuda or the ivory bangles are must have and compulsory for every brides in Rajasthan and Gujarat, the Chuda is gifted to bride by her mother and after wearing the Chuda, the couples can perform the ‘Saat Phera’ or the seven rounds around the holy fire. They are supposed to wear these bangles for a given period, which can go up to a month or a year dependingonthe familiesandcustom.  In West Bengal, the mother-in-law gifts her daughter-in-law an iron bangle before she enters her husband’s house, this iron bangle are usually plated with gold, which gives the bangle an
  • 20. ASIFANWAR ASIF ANWAR, 1ST Year, F/O OF ARCHITECTURE AND EKISTICS, JAMIA MILLIA ISLAMIA appealing look. Not just the iron bangle, a pair of each shell bangles and red coral bangles are also gifted to the bride that signifies the marital status of the newlywed couple. In Orissa and West Bengal, pola and Shankha are mandatory for all the married women, both these bangles are cut and designed intricately. Shankha are white bangles made up of conch-shell and pola are redbanglesmade upof redcorals. Lately bangles have become much fashionable and trendier to match up with the current age, and bangles would never be out of style, they will always be in vogue, as they were centuries ago. For every different occasion, there is different bangle to suit with the flow. Like for traditional occasions there are traditional bangles and for daily casual wear, there are light and funky bangles. Bangles are the alpha and beta of the Indian traditions with regards to set culture and ornamentation. Every state has a separate set of rituals that are associated with bangle, just that they are known by different names in different states, but that does not lessen their significance and value; they are equally importantandare much celebratedpartof richIndiantradition.
  • 21. ASIFANWAR ASIF ANWAR, 1ST Year, F/O OF ARCHITECTURE AND EKISTICS, JAMIA MILLIA ISLAMIA CONCLUSION Muzaffarpurisa hub in lac bangle makingindustryithaspositive aswell asmanynegative aspects  There are manyfamiliesin Muzaffarpur relatedsomehowtothisindustry.  Andthisindustryisprovidingthemthe basicneeds.  Different types of bangles are in color, texture etc. which are exported to different parts of the country.  The atmosphere of the country is not comfortable. The amount of heat generated by the furnace isveryhigh  The illiteracy rate in the industry in very high almost all the people are illiterate. provisions for educatingthe newgenerationof bangle makerisutmostimportance.  Childlabouristhe mainproblemsof thisindustrywhichneedstobe eradicated.  High toxic effects of chemical based colors, handled with bare hands, colors sticks to the fingers and palmsare difficulttoremove. GLAMOURREVIEWS MUZAFFARPUR: In the dark and dingy lanes of Islampur locality in this town, hundreds of artisans, both men and women work for hours mostly near the fire to manufacture colorful and shining lac or lahti banglesof variousvarieties.The entire localityisdottedwithover150 shopssellingthesebangles. In fact, it was at one of these shops that lahti bangles, inlaid with glass and tiny pearls, had been manufactured for Aishwarya ahead of her wedding to Abhishek in 2007 on the specification provided by the Bachchan family. The shop owner, Abdul Sattar Bhai, said some people had visited him from Allahabad with the bridal sari and wanted matching bangles to be manufactured. "We took 15 days to manufacture the bangles as per design and color. It was a great honor for the artisans of Muzaffarpur engaged in this business," he said. Most of the shops doing wholesale and retail business have attributed this business to 85-year-old Haji Mohammad Munir.
  • 22. ASIFANWAR ASIF ANWAR, 1ST Year, F/O OF ARCHITECTURE AND EKISTICS, JAMIA MILLIA ISLAMIA Affectionately called Baba, he had migrated here from Jaipur some seven decades ago and started makinglahti bangles,sofamousinJaipur. "It is because of my labour and hard work that an entire village, Chainpur Bangra in Muzaffarpur district isinvolvedinthe manufacture of lahti bangles,"Babasaid. GALLERY
  • 23. ASIFANWAR ASIF ANWAR, 1ST Year, F/O OF ARCHITECTURE AND EKISTICS, JAMIA MILLIA ISLAMIA INTERVIEW An interviewwith Mr.Sujeetownerof factoryin Muzaffarpur. Q: How many workersare there inyourfactory. A: There are 30 workerwhichwork accordingto shifts. Q: What are the shifttimings. A: From 6 am to4 pm and then6pm to 2 am. Q: For howmany longhave youbeenworkinginthisindustry. A: I have been in this industry from my childhood. my father and grandfather have been in this too. But I have setup thisfactory6 yearsago. Q: Where didyouget the raw materials. A: We get the raw materialsfromthe glassbottles. Q: Whichfurnace is usedinyourfactory. A: We have 2 furnaceswith12 and 9 pots. Q: How manypeople are literate inbangle industryorinyourfactory. A: I don’t think so there are many people literate working in this industry. The workers comes from the lower class so there are hardly any literate worker. In my factory there are workers coming from slums whose family have been related to bangles for many years and working in factories without having any education.
  • 24. ASIFANWAR ASIF ANWAR, 1ST Year, F/O OF ARCHITECTURE AND EKISTICS, JAMIA MILLIA ISLAMIA REFRENCES Bibliography http://www.bollywoodshaadis.com/articles/the-true-significance-of-bangles-in-indian-culture-1665 http://www.businessnonstop.in/sme-buzz/glass-and-bangle-industries-of-Muzaffarpur-on-verge-of- closing-down.html http://www.youthkiawaaz.com/2012/04/bangle-industry-in-india-the-cruel-darkness-behind-the- vibrant-hues/ http://www.shopmgd.com/blog/importance-of-bangles-in-indian-culture/ SERIAL NO NAME SOURCE 1 MAP OF MUZAFFARPUR Wikepedia.com 2 OLD BANGLES Wikipedia 3 BANGLE FACTORY Self clicked 4 WOODEN BANGLE indiamart.com 5 WOODEN BANGLE bfz.biz 6 GLASS BANGLE Indusladies.com 7 GLASS BANGLE indusladies.com 8 METAL BANGLE Styleindesign.com 9 METAL BANGLE Polyvore.com 10 LAC BANGLE Dollofindia.com 11 LAC BANGLE Jewerlrynfashion.com 12 A FACTORYIN MUZAFFARPUR Self clicked 13 MAKINGOF BANGLE Self clicked 14 CHILD LABOUR IN BANGLE INUSTRY Mikeldunham.com 15 CHILD LABOUR Mikeldunham.com 16 BANGLE SHOP valueCrafts.com 17 BANGLE IN CULTURE Cultureindia.com