Saree design project of Mamta Manwani student of second year Dezyne E'cole College

2. on
Print Development
At
Dezyne E’cole college
Submitted Towards
The partial fulfillment of the
Two year diploma in Fashion Design
Confirming To NSQF Level 6 Of NSDC
By
Mamta Manwani
Dezyne E’cole college
106/10,civil lines ,Ajmer
Tel:0145-2624679
www.dezyneecole.com
2016-17
Project Report

3. Dezyne E’cole College
Civil Lines, Ajmer
www.dezyneecole.com
This Project Of Ms. Mamta Manwani Student Of 2nd Year Advance Diploma In Fashion Design, Confirming To NSQF
Level 6 Of NSDC Has Been Checked And Graded As ______________________________________________________
Thanking You
Principal
[Seal & Signature]

4. ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
I take this opportunity to express my profound gratitude and deep regards to Dezyne E’cole College for their exemplary
guidance, monitoring and constant encouragement throughout the course of this project.
I also take this opportunity to express a deep sense of gratitude to the mentors of Dezyne E’cole College for their
cardinal support, valuable information and guidance, which helped me in completing this task through various stages.
MAMTA MANWANI

5. 1. Traditional Indian Saree : An Introduction
2. History Of Indian Saree
3. Ways Of Draping Saree In India
4. Types Of Saree Worn In India
5. Traditional Indian Motifs : An Introduction
6. The Paisley motif
7. The Kalasha Motif
8. The Flower Motif
9. The Buti And Buta Motif
10.The Tree Of Life Motif
11.The Animal And Bird Motif
12.The Hunting Scene Motif
CONTENT

6. THE TRADITIONAL INDIAN SAREE
AN INTRODUCTION
The saree is a traditional garment worn by most Indian women. The word
saree described In Sanskrit ‘Sati’ which means ‘strip of cloth’ and ‘sadi’ in
Pali, and which was corrupted to saree in modern Indian Language.
Although at present there is a lot of western influence in the way people
dress. Today, saree comprises over 30% of total textile mills, the number
of saree-manufacturing centers are in hundreds and so there are
innumerable types of fabrics, weaving techniques, methods of dying,
printing or embellishing, designing patterns, kind of motifs, colour scheme
etc. can be found.
There is something about the saree that makes a woman look
dignified, charming and every bit stylish. Over the years, the saree
has evolved into a fashion statement which most fashion designers
glorify the look and feel of this traditional garment.
A saree consist of a drape varying from five to nine yards in length
and two to four feet in breadth, that is typically wrapped around the
waist, with one end draped over the shoulder, baring the midriff.
There are various styles of saree draping, the most common being
the Navi style, which originated in Andhra Pradesh.
The saree is usually worn over a petticoat, with a fitted upper
garment commonly called a blouse. The saree is associated with
grace and is widely regarded as a symbol of grace in cultures of the
Indian Subcontinent.

7. HISTORY OF INDIAN SAREE
In the history of Indian clothing the saree is traced back to the
Indus Valley Civilisation, which flourished during 2800–1800 BC
around the northwestern part of the Indian subcontinent. Cotton
was first cultivated and woven in Indian subcontinent around 5th
millennium BC. Dyes used during this period are still in use,
particularly indigo, lac, red madder and turmeric. Silk was woven
around 2450 BC and 2000 BC. The earliest known depiction of the
saree in the Indian subcontinent is the statue of an Indus Valley
priest wearing a drape.
The saree evolved from a three-piece ensemble comprising the
Antariya, the lower garment; the Uttariya; a veil worn over the
shoulder or the head; and the Stanapatta, a chestband. This
ensemble is mentioned in Sanskrit literature and Buddhist Pali
literature during the 6th century B.C. This complete three-piece
dress was known as Poshak, generic term for costume. Antariya
and Uttariya was merged to form a single garment known as
saree mentioned in Pali literature, which served the purpose of
two garments in one-piece.
The modern way of draping saree was invented by Gyanandanandini Devi. She was the wife of Satyendranath Tagore, first Indian ICS officer
and elder brother of R. N. Tagore, first Asian to win Nobel. After becoming an IAS officer, Satyendranath Tagore and his wife needed to
socialize house did not want to adopt Western cloth totally, but then the prevalent way of wearing one-piece saree was not very civil for that
Victorian age. Till then women used to stay inside their own home, so the one piece saree was kind of adequate. To suit with the new age,
Gyanadanandini Devi started wearing saree with blouse, which gradually became the saree we know today.

8. WAYS OF WEARING SAREES IN INDIA
There are more than 80 recorded ways to wear a saree. The most common style is for the saree to be wrapped around the waist, with the
loose end of the drape to be worn over the shoulder, baring the midriff. However, the saree can be draped in several different styles, though
some styles do require a saree of a particular length or form. The French cultural anthropologist and saree researcher Chantal Boulanger
categorized saree drapes in the following families
Brahmini Style Madisar Style Nepali Style Gujarati Style Malayali style

9. WAYS OF DRAPING SAREES IN INDIA
Nivi Style Bengali Style Professional Style Tribal Style

10. TYPES OF SAREE WORN IN INDIA
While an International image of the modern style saree may have been popularized by airline Stewardesses , each region in the Indian
Subcontinent has developed, over the centuries, its own unique saree style. Following are the other well-known varieties, distinct on the
basis of fabric, weaving style, or motif:
1. Brocade saree
Originating in the northern region of the country, these Indian
traditional sires are made of silk and has a heavy Mughal influence
to it and is quite a popular saree for weddings and occasions. The
trademark of the saree is its intricate floral patterns and zari work
as well as foliate motifs such as the kalga, phool and bel adorning
the whole saree in silver, golden or copper thread works. The
signature design of a Banarasi brocade silk saree is the jhalar that is
nothing but an intricate fringe-like pattern that is often found in the
outer edge of the borders of the saree.
2. Jamawar saree
More popularly known to be a product of Kashmir, Jamawar is a
glorious variant of the silk saree with an array of skilful designs and
colours on a parchment of pure silk or pashmina. The term
‘jamawar’ literally means robe and yard, which was once used by
the royalty for the purpose of robes and which now is a very
popular variety of Indian traditional sarees that you can invest in for
a wedding. The uniqueness of the saree is that many of its varieties
come with matching silk shawls attached along them and are
embellished in meenakari colours like orange and green and have
beautiful aksi embroidery for the borders.
Brocade saree Jamawar saree

11. 3. Lucknowi Chikankari saree
The art of chikankari is quite popular in the regions of Uttar
Pradesh. The thread work with fine intricate designs show
grace and elegance. The colours of chikankari sarees are
often very subtle and in pastel shades which can never go
out of style. The light texture and soft shade of colours
makes it a very versatile variety of Indian traditional sarees,
fit for any occasion, be it casual or formal.
4. Tanchoi saree
Tanchoi is actually a kind of weaving technique which
involves a single or double warp along with two to five
colours placed in the weft that are often of the same shade
and done on silk fabric. The richness of the shades and the
softness of the material make it a really popular silk saree
all across India and abroad too. There are numerous
varieties of tanchoi weave which includes satin
tanchoi, satin jari tanchoi, atlas or gilt
and mushabbar. These sarees are quite popular for formal
occasions such as weddings, ceremonies, and festivities.
The ideal time to wear a tanchoi saree is during the cooler
months of autumn and winter because of the warmth of the
fabric.
Lucknowi Chikankari saree Tanchoi saree
TYPES OF SAREE WORN IN INDIA

12. 5. Kinkhwab saree
Kinkhwab brocade sarees were very popular in the Mughal
era and they were considered one of the finest and
luxurious textiles in that era. Nowadays, this pattern is
widely used for wedding sarees with a heavy brocade and
intricate embroidery inspired from the Islamic heritage. The
pattern of the brocade has wefts, numerous layers as well
as warp threads that add to the glory of the elaborate look
created by the embroidery design. Other popular Indian
traditional sarees of the northern region of India include the
Amru brocades, Tissue sarees, Shikargarh brocades, etc.
6. Kancheevaram Silk saree
Originating in the town of Kanchipuram in Tamil Nadu, the
weavers here have a tradition of more than 150 years of
weaving these beautiful south Indian silk sires. This variety
of Indian traditional sires are made from silk and get their
name from the town itself. The unique aspect of the saree is
the gold-dipped thread that is woven along with premium
silk fabric for a magnificent finish.
Kinkhwab saree Kancheevaram Silk saree
TYPES OF SAREE WORN IN INDIA

13. Mysore Silk saree Konard Silk saree
7. Mysore Silk saree
One saree that is really popular in India which belongs to
the Karnataka region is the Mysore silk. It is one of the most
sought-after sarees of South India and it has every reason to
be so popular. The speciality of these sarees is that there is
a shimmering quality in the material that reflects with
subtle hints. This kind of silk saree has gained popularity for
its bright and vibrant colours, a soft and breathable fabric,
and its pure sheen. It is popular as a wedding saree.
8. Konrad Silk saree
Also called as the temple saree, Konrad south Indian saree
is a special weave from the state of Tamil Nadu. The original
purpose for the weaving of these sarees was to adorn the
deities of the temples, which gives the saree its name and
uniqueness. The special features of this saree is that it
consists of wide borders and they are mostly adorned with
designs of elephants, peacocks and other natural things like
flowers and ferns, spread over the length of the saree.
TYPES OF SAREE WORN IN INDIA

14. Pochampally saree Kerala Kasavu saree
9. Pochampally
The name of these Indian traditional sarees comes from the
small town of Pochampally in Hyderabad, which is the origin
for this variety of silk saree. The unique pattern of the saree
comes from the symmetrical size of the weft and the warp
of the yarns that are then resist dyed which gives you the
pre-fixed design on the silk saree that is then interlaced to
get the final look. Woven in silk and in bright colours, these
sarees are widely produced in Andhra Pradesh, Gujarat and
Orissa too.
10. Kerala Kasavu saree
The Kerala kasavu saree is made with super-fine quality of
cotton fabric which is usually in shades of white with golden
zari border. They come in colours such as off-white, pure
white, ivory white and pale yellowish white colours and
have a very sober appeal. The whole yard of the saree is
free of any zari work, embroidery, or print. But it is kept
plain, only with a six inch golden border along with an
elaborate pallu that is its trademark. Other popular sarees
down South include the Ilkal sarees originating in Karnataka,
Balarampuram mundu veshti sarees from Kerala, Madurai
silk sarees, Chettinad sarees, Coimbatore cotton south
Indian saree, and many more.
TYPES OF SAREE WORN IN INDIA

15. Pathani saree Bandhani saree
11. Paithani saree
Named after a small village in Aurangabad in Maharashtra,
this the making of this saree needs enormous skill and
labour as the expanse of material that goes into its weaving
and creation makes it just awesome. Through the entire
length of the saree, you will find distinct patterns and motifs
like parrots, trees, and plants, which are woven along the
borders and on the pallu of the saree. These Indian
traditional sarees otherwise known as Pathiani sarees are
woven using pure silk threads and given vibrant colours
along with a touch of pure gold, making the perfect for a
wedding
12. Bandhani saree
It is a popular saree which is made using the tie and dye
concept. This form of saree weaving is carried out mostly in
the parts of Gujarat. The sarees have small spots or dots
that are created using the resist-dying method which
creates elaborate and skilful patterns with the coloured and
uncoloured parts in the saree. They are further adorned
with shells or cowrie and are quite popular across the
country and abroad too. The Lahariya saree of Rajasthan is
also created using the same concept.
TYPES OF SAREE WORN IN INDIA

16. Patola saree Kota Doria saree
13. Patola saree
One of the most time-consuming and elaborate sarees,
Patola has a charm of its own. It is created using the most
complex weave techniques with five colour designs that are
resist dyed carefully into both warp and weft threads before
woven into beautiful patterns. The variations in the designs
of the Patola saree range from geometrical patterns to floral
or vegetable patterns as well as the elephant and the
maiden motifs.
14. Kota Doria saree
Also known as Kota saree, these sarees are made in the
villages in Kota, Rajasthan. The unique thing about these
sarees is that they are of a transparent texture, woven using
very fine cotton or cotton-silk weave. The lightness of the
texture and weightlessness makes these Indian traditional
sarees ideal for the summer months. These sarees have a
graph-like pattern all over the length and are lightly
embellished with zari work on the borders.
TYPES OF SAREE WORN IN INDIA

17. Muga Silk saree Taant saree
15. Muga Silk saree
One of the most durable and highly reliable silk sarees from
Assam, Muga silk sarees are popular across the globe for
their natural sheen and a touch of golden colour that is the
natural shade of the raw silk fibre. The fabric is not dyed but
embellished with motifs in black, red, green or bright
orange colours to set a good contrast against the golden
backdrop.
16. Taant saree
The word ‘taant’ literally translates to ‘made on the loom.’ It
is considered to be the pride of Bengal handloom. Taant
sarees are made from cotton fabric and have a very crisp,
smooth finish and are light in weight. Available in a wide
range of patterns and colours, you can take your pick for the
summers.
TYPES OF SAREE WORN IN INDIA

18. Baluchuri saree Kantha Stitch saree
17. Baluchuri saree
The Baluchuri sarees are woven in the town of Baluchur
in Murshidabad, West Bengal and are known for their
unique and intricate designs. The borders of these Indian
traditional sarees serve as a canvas depicting the stories
from the Hindu mythology, the Ramayana and the
Mahabharata, which makes it a unique creation.
18. Kantha Stitch saree
The pattern of the saree is created using simple run
stitch on a silk or cotton yard. The stitches are used to
create intricate patterns all over these Indian traditional
sarees, especially on the pallu and the border using
colourful silk threads.
TYPES OF SAREE WORN IN INDIA

19. 19. Maheshwari saree
the motifs of Maheshwari sarees have been derived
from the temple carving and the carving of the place
built by Rani Ahilyabai Holkar. Rani lived near the banks
of Narmada. Maheshwari sarees are woven by men as
well as women folks. The weaving done is intricate with
geometric designs with no motifs on the body of the
sarees. Weaving is done with fine silk warp and cotton
weft. Lines play a vital role as vertical stripes, and large
checks are woven to shape up the pattern.
20. Chanderi Silk saree
Chanderi silk is made by hand weaving. It is considered
as the fabric of choice for sarees produced for royalty, as
it is light-weight, of fine quality and has intricate designs
developed. It is produced in a town called Chanderi
which is located in the state of Madhya Pradesh In India.
The colours of Chanderi silk are natural as well as the
ones that can be developed from chemical processes.
Chanderi sarees are very light and ideal for summers.
The beauty of fabric lies in its feel, simplicity and the
borders and butties. They give a sophisticated look.
Maheshwari saree Chanderi Silk saree
TYPES OF SAREE WORN IN INDIA

20. 21. Bagru Block Printed saree
Bagru is known for natural dyes and hand block printing.
Bagru is the place of Raiger and Chhipa community.
Bagru is also known for natural dyeing, indigo dyeing
and wooden hand block printing over textile articles.
.Artisans use traditional vegetable dyes for printing the
cloth. Like, the color blue is made from indigo, greens
out of indigo mixed with pomegranate, red from
madder root and yellow from turmeric. Usually Bagru
prints have ethnic floral patterns in natural colors.
22. Sambalpuri saree
Sambalpuri saree is a traditional hand-woven ikat or
saree. Wherein the warp and weft are tie and dyed
before weaving. It’s produced in Bargarh, Sambhalpur,
Balangir district, Baudh district of Orissa. Smbalpuri
sarees are known for their incorporation of traditional
motifs like Shankha (shell), Chakra (wheel), Phula
(flower) all of which have deep symbolism.
Bagru Block Printed saree Sambalpuri saree
TYPES OF SAREE WORN IN INDIA

21. TRADITIONAL INDIAN MOTIF
Traditional motifs can be described as the motifs which are
being used in Indian textiles since ancient times and are handed
over from one generation to the other. Our traditional motifs
are deeply influenced by religious belief, culture, environment,
activities of day to day life, architecture, history, rulers etc.
The artisans have modified motifs based on the whims and
fancies of the kings who invaded and ruled India for several
years. For creating the variety of motifs and designs, weavers
and designers had also taken inspiration from their
environment.
Indian artisans have created varied motifs and patterns which
are exclusive in their styles and colour combinations like
creeping vines and floral patterns, which remind us of Mughal
history and the Islamic portrayals. Motifs like lotus, conch
shells, fish, elephant and horse etc. which represent the
philosophy of Hinduism and the concept of bring good-luck, health and prosperity are typically found in the textiles
worn in the occasional ceremonies.
These motifs represent over poetic expressions and imaginations towards life, and devotional characters. These motifs
are explained in the following slides.

22. PAISLEY MOTIF
The Paisley motif evolved from seventeenth century floral
and tree of life designs that were created in expensive,
tapestry woven Mugal textiles, primarily patkas (Sashes)
made for the Mugal court. The kalgas created on Kashmir
shawls , which became fashion item in Europe for over a
century, were certainly the most imaginative and intricate
and it was from the imitations of these shawls woven in
factories at Paisley, Scotland, that the name ‘Paisley’ was
derived, still commonly used in Europe and the United
States.
Textiles : It is found in Phulkari of Punjab, Kantha Of West
Bengal, Kashidakari of Kashmir, Chikankari of Lucknow and
Brocade of Banaras.
Names In Different Languages : It is popularly known as
‘kalga’ in Urdu language, ‘Mankolam’ in Tamil Nadu, ‘Ambi’
in Punjabi and ‘carrey’ in Hindi.
Symbol Of Motif : It is a symbol of life and eternity.

23. CONCH MOTIF
Shankha is a Sanskrit word used to denote a sleek
and smooth conch shell. It is believed that if the
Shankha is blown with skill, it can scare away evil
spirits and is described as a killer of germs and
enemies. The Conch or Shankh has remained as
integral part of Hindu socio-religious philosophy
since the mythological past. It is regarded as a
divine jewel always held by Lord Vishnu on his right
hand. The Shankh is part of Hindu aesthetics as a
permanent motif in the stone carvings and canvases
made by sculptors and artists of ancient days.
Textiles : This motif is majorly used in Phulkari of
Punjab, Ikat of Andhra Pradesh, Patola of Gujarat
and Mochi Embroidery of Gujarat.
Symbol Of Motif : It is a symbol of fertility.

24. PEEPAL LEAF MOTIF
Depictions of the heart-shaped leaves of the
peepal tree are one of the earliest and most
common motifs found in early and Mature
Indus Valley pottery. Yet, subsequent to the
Indus Valley period, few depictions of the
peepal or its leaves have survived in Indian art.
Textiles : It is found in Gujarati Patola called
‘Peepal Patra Bhat’.
Symbol Of Motif : Peepal leaf motif has a
religious significance.

25. TEMPLE MOTIF
The temple motif consist of rows of large triangles
found along ethnic and tribal saree borders, as well as
in the end pieces of Dravidian and some Central
Deccan sarees. They are usually woven into the
ground fabric of the saree in the interlocked weft
technique. So making the triangles point in the weft
direction of the fabric, never the warp.
Textiles : Temple motif is found in many Indian textile.
It is found in Phulkari (Darshandwar Bagh) of Punjab,
Mochi embroidery of Gujarat, Bandha of Orissa,
Kancheevaram sarees of Tamil Nadu and Kalamkari of
Andhra Pradesh.
Names In Different Languages : It is called ‘daant’
(teeth) in West Bengal, ‘Kumbbam’ in Telgu, ‘Kumb’ in
Orissa and Andhra Pradesh.
Symbol Of Motif : It is the symbol of protection
against evil eye, the kumbba is fertility symbol.

26. KALASHA MOTIF
Amongst all auspicious symbols used in Indian art
throughout history, Kalasha, the holy ceremonial
water jar hold a special place. It is an important part
of ceremonial occasions and wedding in Hindu culture.
The motif is seen in the carvings of the sculptures, and
paintings of ancient India.
Textiles : With time craftsman started using it as motif
in the enrichment of textiles through weaving,
embroidery or printing.
Names In Different Languages : The motif is called
‘Purna Kumbha’ in Suthern India
Symbol Of Motif : It is a symbol of Fertility and purity.

27. CREEPING VINES MOTIF
It is a Persian origin which came to India through
Mughal. It is mostly preferred by the designers or the
craftsmen for filling the empty area with free flow
designs. They look harmonious and rhythmic which
gives the viewer a pleasant feeling. Creepers with
flowers, leaves, buds, and fruits makes a heavy creeping
wine pattern and fruitful.
Textiles : It is majorly used in block prints from
Machlipattnam and other embroideries. It is also used
in Chikankari or Lucknow and Kashidakari of Kashmir. In
woven textiles it is used in Paithani sarees.
Symbol Of Motif : It is the symbol of unity and
flawlessness.

28. FLOWER MOTIF
Various types of floral forms abound in Indian sarees .
Flowers have played a major role in Hindu and early
Buddhist iconography, and many designs were then used
by the Muslims. Various types of flowers are depicted in
traditional Indian saree. In many Deccan sarees, narrow
bands of repeat supplementary warp figuring are
generically called phool, even if the design is not strictly
floral.
Textiles : This motif is found in most of the textiles. Like
Chikankari, Phulkari, Chamba Rumal, Kashidakari, Kutch
Embroidery, Ajrakh Prints, Sanganeri Prints, Ikat and
Patola. Brocade, Kancheevaram, Paithani, among woven
textiles.
Symbol Of Motif : Flowers are mostly linked with
feminine and many God and Goddesses. Flower is a
symbol of fertility, protection and good luck.

29. LOTUS MOTIF
The lotus is among the most popular motifs in Indian art. There are
various forms of lotus motifs like astadal padma - eight petalled to
the satadal - hundred petalled. It also symbolizes prosperity and
material wealth, associated closely with the goddess Sri Lakshmi. It
is one of the multifaceted symbols in the traditional patterns. Its
spiritual aspect is emphasized particularly in Indian sarees and
furnishings. The colours used are always bright to depict the
richness of the lotus.
Textiles : In kantha embroidery the central motif is almost always a
fully bloomed lotus seen from above. Other textiles are, Chikankari,
Phulkari, Chamba Rumal, Kashidakari, Kutch Embroidery, Ajrakh
Prints, Sanganeri Prints, Ikat and Patola.
Names In Different Languages : It is popularly known as ‘Kamal’ in
India.
Symbol Of Motif : Lotus is the symbol of eternal order of the union
earth, water and sky. It represents the life giving power of water but
is also associated with the sun for the opening and closing of the
petals. It is also the symbol of recreating power of life.

30. RUDRAKSH MOTIF
Rudraksh beads have an ascetic charm. Associated
with Lord Shiva and mentioned in Vedic literature, it
has significance for peace and power. Bestowed
with electrical and magnetic properties which make
them spiritually and medically curative, these beads
are positively charged. Rudraksh beads are common
motif among south woven sarees.
Textiles : Used in Kancheevaram, Gadwal and hand
woven sarees of Orissa.
Symbol Of Motif : The name rudraksh literally
means ‘eye of Shiva’, this motif is associated with
Lord shiva.

31. BUTI AND BUTA MOTIF
Another group of floral motifs found in sarees is the small
buti and large buta, which are depicted as flowers, sprigs
or bushes. As with the phool, however, these names are
also given to geometric and zoo- morphic motifs. They
are always created as floating design elements placed
against a plain background. The smaller buti is usually
created in rows figures.
Textiles : These are used in Chikankari, Phulkari, Chamba
Rumal, Kashidakari, Kutch Embroidery, Ajrakh Prints,
Sanganeri Prints, Ikat and Patola., Brocade, and most of
the woven textiles.
Names In Different Languages : Buta is most common
word used in most of the languages, their names are
differ in terms of motifs used in butas, i.e. ‘kalga Buta’
motif.
Symbol Of Motif : symbol of this depends upon which
motif is chosen to create butas. It can be flower or
paisley.

32. TREE OF LIFE MOTIF
Tree of life motif is a many branched tree laden with
flowers and fruits, birds in the tree branches, animals
roaming under it illustrating the idea that all life on
earth are related and has been used in religion,
philosophy, mythology and other areas. Lot of colours
are associated with this motif.
Specific trees supplied pre-industrial India with food,
medicines, timber, utensils and even cloth. Many of
the rural rituals still being practiced reflect this
heritage.
Textiles : It is mostly seen in the embroideries and
Kalamkari of India. It is also seen in Kashmiri carpets.
Symbol Of Motif : The tree of life is a metaphysical
extrapolation of the basic concepts of fertility and
protection.

33. SUN TREE MOTIF
The Assamese sun-tree motif is now such an
archetypal pattern of the north-eastern region that
many Assamese textiles are recognized as such just
on the basis of this design. It depicts two birds,
animals or flowers, facing each other on either side
of a tree whose branches spread above them. The
motif is rigidly symmetrical, highly stylized and
angular, with a pointed roof-like top to the tree, and
its sides are often straight.
Textiles : It is used as embroidery or as prints in
textiles. Also it is found on may woven textiles of the
Northern India.
Symbol Of Motif : Sun tree motif represents
reaching upward and growth.

34. PEACOCK MOTIF
The peacock was painted on Indus Valley depicting tribal art;
it was also found in Mauryan Buddhist sculpture, Gupta-
period artifacts, Mughal miniatures, and in present-day wall
paintings and textiles. Although it is hard to say if it had the
same symbolism in every age, the peacock was found in the
arts of most post-Indus cultures, indicating that it remained a
potent symbol. The peacock is now India’s national bird.
Textiles : In all types of Indian textiles peacock is either
printed or embroidered on light background with dark colour
combinations. It is majorly used in Mochi Embroidery and
Kutch Embroidery of Gujarat, Kancheevaram silk saree of
Tamil Nadu, Paithani saree of Maharashtra and Patola saree of
Gujarat.
Names In Different Languages : It is called ‘Morbangadi’ in
Maharashtrian language, ‘Mor’ in Hindi and ‘Nemali’ in Tamil.
Symbol Of Motif : The peacock has had several associations
that at first glance appear to be unrelated : immortality, love,
courtship, fertility, regal pomp, war and protection.

35. HANSA MOTIF
The motif was found in Indus Valley pottery and on the
wall paintings at Ajanta. In Buddhist illustrations, it
represented spiritual purity. It was also common in
Indian art prior to Mughal times, but afterwards, it
disappeared. Its use in textiles is characterized by its
highly stylized forms as depicted in woven and
embroidered textiles of southern India.
Textiles : This motif is found in some of the Tamil
sarees and ethnic Orissa Ikats.
Symbol Of Motif : As it is associated with Goddess
Saraswati, it is a symbol of divine knowledge and
creativity.

36. FISH MOTIF
The fish appears early in the archaeological record, and is painted
onto Early Indus Valley pottery as well as carved into Mohenjo-
Daro seals and plaques of the mature Indus Valley civilization. Yet
is was rarely depicted in the sculptures and architecture of later
historical periods and was never a vehicle for any deity.
Nevertheless, its relationship with India folk and tribal art remains
strong.
Textiles : It is often depicted in textiles where fish form a major
part of the diet, as in Orissa, or where the Vaishnavism is
important. It is majorly found in Kanthakari of West Bengal.
Symbol Of Motif : Fish are potent fertility symbols throughout
tribal and caste Hindu India, indicating abundance of food, wealth
and children, as well as the generative powers of the supernatural.
The fish is also an avtaar of Lord Vishnu who, as the Preserver, is
associated with prosperity and material comforts.

37. PARROT MOTIF
Representations of the parrot do not have the
historical and iconographic depth of those of
the goose. It has not depicted in ancient,
classical or even medieval India architecture .
This dearth of historical representation
suggests that it is a relatively recent addition
to the traditional Indian textile.
Textiles : Motif of parrot is generally found in
textiles from West Bengal, Gujarat and
Rajasthan embroideries and resist textiles.
Symbol Of Motif : Parrot Motif It is a symbol
of courtship and passion seen in Indian art
mostly in company of Krishna and Radha,
Hinduism’s eternal lovers

38. ELEPHANT MOTIF
Elephant Motif It is widely used motif in Indian
textiles. Elephant is regarded as the mount of
Kings in India. Elephant is a devastating weapon
of war In India, it is used in richly decorated form
in their printed, painted and embroidered
textiles to depict war scenes and royal
extravaganza.
Textiles : It is mostly used in Mochi Embroidery
of Gujarat, Ikat of Andhra Pradesh and Patola of
Gujarat.
Names In Different Languages : it is called
‘Vagh’ in Gujarati and ‘Gajah/Hathi’ in Hindi
language.
Symbol Of Motif : . Elephant came to symbolize
the God of Warriors. It is a sign of wealth and
power and influence denoting royalty, inner
strength and nobility.

39. TORTOISE MOTIF
The tortoise is the second incarnation of Vishnu,
who was both the Cosmic Tortoise upon which the
universe rests, and the foundation of the churning
stick with which Vishnu stirred the Cosmic Ocean
that created the universe. Tortoises are known to
have been part of the late, Upper Paleolithic diet,
and they were depicted on Early Indus Valley
pottery, suggests they were already a noticeable
part of local life. During the Gupta period, when
Vaishnavism began to take recognizable shape,
tortoise amulets were made in the north-west.
Textiles : Today, tortoise are traditionally woven in
the supplementary-warp bands of east Deccan
sarees.
Symbol Of Motif : The tortoise has associations with
prosperity and the creation wealth.

40. HUNTING SCENE MOTIF
The origins of the hunting-scene designs are
obscure. It is easy to assume that these textiles
were inspired by the elaborately figured
seventeenth-century. Safavid lampas textiles
whose designs were conceptually similar because
they also depict hunts and war, but the style of
representation is completely different. The
hunting scene prints excavated at al-Fustat
suggest that the roots of this design are much
older.
Textiles : These are found in Gujarati textiles.
Symbol Of Motif : It has no such symbolism
except the passion of hunting.

41. Hand Drafting

42. Motif Development
Simplification Of Motif

43. Motif Development
Stylising The Motif

44. Repetition
Border Repeat

45. Repetition
Brick Repeat

46. Overlapping

47. THANK YOU FOR WATCHING
By Mamta Manwani
Two Year Diploma In Fashion Design
Confirming To NSQF Level 6 Of NSDC
Dezyne E’cole College