1. 44that’smags
Sept. 2005 www. thatsbj.com
44
DINING
the Beijinger / July 2009 www.thebeijinger.com
Us Beijingers are gastronomic globetrotters. Every day we
travel the four corners of the food world within a few square
miles of urban dining room, sampling whatever cuisine takes
our fancy. The spicy pastes and pickles of India, the wasabi-tinged
seafood of Japan, the fresh herbs and classic sauces of France – it’s
all waiting to be explored.
So holster your toothpicks and hold on to your hats, as this column
takes off on an adventure through the capital’s international food
landscape. (Note: From this point it helps to hum the Indiana Jones
music as you read.)
First to France, where two Gallic newcomers have sprung up
in Sanlitun: Crepanini, a Breton-style galette joint, and Juliette’s,
a trendy bistro (see What’s New: Restaurants, p48). Across town,
Le Pré Lenôtre, Sofitel’s upscale French restaurant, welcomes a
new French chef and menu, whilst Maison Boulud’s own epicurean
adventure continues with food from the Loire region under the
spotlight for July.
To Italy next (keep humming), where the classic spaghetti and
pizza dishes of the Campania region are celebrated all month at Da
Giorgio in the Grand Hyatt. Scarlett at Hotel G has launched an
all-you-can-gorge pasta and wine feast on Tuesday evenings, and
Nanluogu Xiang denizens should herald the arrival of Cambulac, a
new Italian wine enoteca.
The journey continues on to Central Europe, to mark the open-
ings of Beijing’s first Hungarian restaurant, Budapest, and Double
Coffee, a brassy Latvian chain with big plans for China, who promise
a 10 percent discount on their menu all month.
Next stop is Japan, where a sexed-up sushi buffet now in operation
at Lan is sure to be a hit with raw fish fans. Elsewhere, Ichigo Ichie
plants its flag as the first sushi joint to open in Nanluogu Xiang.
Way out west (in Haidian), American burgers and steaks are sizzling
every Friday evening in the garden at Four Points by Sheraton, a fine
spot to mark the start of BBQ season with all-you-can-eat meat and
free-flow of imported beers. Better yet, just make like a local and park
your can on an undersized plastic chair at any number of chuan’r joints in
the capital. The combination of cold Tsingtao, cumin-spiced lamb and
hot wings is hard to beat, and a clutch of very decent outlets are to be
found on Jiugulou Dajie, most with terraces and outdoor seating.
Which brings us to Chinese food in Beijing. Undoubtedly the
biggest adventure of all, but one fraught with pitfalls, hieroglyphic
menus and imitation Sichuan. Fear not, though, for help is at hand
in the form of local food expert and Beijing Eats author Eileen Wen
Mooney (see p46). Not only will she be giving a talk at Black Sesame
Kitchen this month, but her new blog (www.eileeneats.com) should
help newcomers and old China hands alike better dig out the gems
in Beijing’s culinary maze. Tom O’Malley
Sushi rolls into Nanluogu Xiang
Mouthwatering maki at Ichigo Ichie. See What’s New: Restaurants, p48.
PHOTO:SONGYANG
PLACES TO GET YOUR CHEESE FIX
Maison Boulud
From pale yellow shavings of ripe Swiss Tête de Moine to a few
teaspoons of unctuously creamy Saint-Félicien, the cheese platter
here (RMB 120) is a memorable pleasure. A basket of wolfberry-
baked bread marries especially well with the bitter-edged Gouda,
which is one of a handful of artisanal cheeses produced here in
China (www.cheeseinchina.com).
Daily noon-2pm, 6-10pm. Ch’ien Men 23, 23 Qianmen Dongdajie, Dongcheng District
(6559 9200) 布鲁宫法餐厅, 东城区前门东大街23号
Scarlett
The eight-cheese plate (RMB 168) is enough for several friends
to binge on at this hip wine bar. On a recent visit, a nutty Comté,
ash-coated Valançay and soft, herby Gaperon all put in strong
performances but were mere understudies to an oozing Vacherin
Mont D’or, so ripe it was practically making a bid for the door.
Daily 6pm-3am. Hotel G, 7A Gongti Xilu, Chaoyang District (6552 2880)
朝阳区工体西路甲7号北京极栈内
Agua
One of the only places in town you can find genuine Spanish
Manchego. The Denominación de Origen cheese here is viejo
(aged 12 months), with a firm texture and tangy, peppery bite.
Served as a tapas dish (RMB 120), the cheese is cut into long
strips and simply drizzled in extra-virgin olive oil, to be eaten
with one’s fingers.
Daily noon-2pm, 6.30-10.30pm. Ch’ien Men 23, 23 Qianmen Dongdajie, Dongcheng
District (6559 6266) 东城区前门东大街23号
VIC at Sofitel
ExecutivechefSakalPhoeungwasbroughtupintheSavoieregionof
France, so expect to find Reblochon, Beaufort and Saint-Marcellin
among the dozen or so artisanal cheeses at the Sofitel’s Sunday
brunch buffet. Periodically, the hotel hosts seasonal cheese
brunches featuring hot dishes like raclette, fondue, tartiflette and
aligot – potatoes mashed with equal parts Cantal cheese.
Sun 11.30am-3.30pm. Tower C, Wanda Plaza, 93 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang District (8599
6666) 北京万达索菲特大饭店, 朝阳区建国路93号万达广场C座
Chez Gérard
This tiny deli has a cheese selection on par with Jenny Lou’s,
but owner Christophe (of Cafe de la Poste) claims he’ll have
unpasteurized cheeses for sale by month’s end. A self-confessed
cheese fanatic, Christophe organizes a group of fellow Beijing curd
nerds dubbed La Fraternité du Fromage, who meet each month
to scoff expensive imported cheese and drink wine.
Daily 10am-10pm. 40 Jianchang Hutong, Dongcheng District (6415 0118)
东城区箭厂胡同40号
Top5
Please your palette with the eight-cheese platter at Hotel G's Scarlett
Dining