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Grits and Gout du
Terroir: The Taste
of Place in
Southern Food
Culture
Devin Yeomans1
Michelle R. Worosz 1,2,3
Auburn University
1Department of Agricultural
Economics and Rural
Sociology
2Alabama Agriculture
Experiment Systems
3Institute for Food Systems
RSS 20141
Introduction
๏‚› Increased interest in โ€œalternativeโ€ foods may now be a
social movement, or a set of social movements in
response to industrial agrifood system.
๏‚› Restaurant chefs may contribute to this movement by
creating meanings and symbols surrounding food.
RSS 2014
2
Literature
Agrifood
๏‚› Barriers (eg.,Schmit,
2012; Curtis &
Cowee,2009 )
๏‚› Farm to Table (eg.,
Pepinksy&Thilmany,
2004)
๏‚› Terroir (eg.,Bessiere,
1998; Van Leeuwen,
2006)
Social Movement
๏‚› Framing Processes (eg.,
Benford & Snow, 2000;
McArthy & Zald, 1977)
๏‚› Collective Action Frames
(eg., Polleta & Jasper,
2001; McAdam et. al,
1996)
RSS 2014
3
Research Questions
1) How do key decision makers within the restaurant
industry perceive their ability to influence social
change surrounding local food issues?
2) What beliefs and values influence sourcing
decisions within the restaurant industry?
3) What barriers do restaurant chefs face as they
incorporate local ingredients into their menus?
RSS 2014
4
Research Questions Cont.
4) How do executive chefs use the idea of terroir
to create a sense of place that is unique to the
Southeastern United States?
5) How might romanticizing Southern foodways
mask historical and current instances of
injustice?
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5
Methods: Data Collection
๏‚› Pretest
๏‚› Snowball Sampling
๏‚› 30 interviews with chefs using local ingredients
๏‚› Semi-structured interview guide
๏‚› Observation of signage, website, menus, and wait staff
๏‚› IRB Approval # 14-050 EX 1402
RSS 2014
6
Social
Change
Beliefs and
Values
Barriers to
Local
Sourcing Terroir
Collective
Action
Frames
Customer
behavior
Consumer
education
Chef
involvement
in the local
food
movement
Chef beliefs
Chef values
Access
Barriers
Price
Barriers
Supply
Barriers
Ecology
Culture
Production
Quality
Localness
Symbols
Meanings
Language
Methods: Analysis
RSS 2014
7
RSS 2014
8
Participants
๏‚› 14 are male
๏‚› Restaurants
๏‚› 12 are privately owned
๏‚› 4 are corporately owned
๏‚› 1 hotel
๏‚› 1 private country club
๏‚› 1 regional chain
RSS 2014
9
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10
Findings: Local Sourcing
RSS 2014
11
๏‚› 30%-80% of
ingredients
๏‚› Benefits to
producers,
consumers, and
community
๏‚› Barriers
Findings: Themes
๏‚› Defining Local
๏‚› Creating the taste of the South
๏‚› Seeking Authenticity
๏‚› Chef Connections
RSS 2014
12
Theme: Defining โ€œLocalโ€
๏‚› Degrees of โ€œlocalnessโ€
๏‚› Relationships
โ€œI went in search of making first name
acquaintances and looking for how I could attach a
first name to my food instead of a brand name.โ€
-Executive Chef at privately owned restaurant-
RSS 2014
13
Theme: Taste of the South
RSS 2014
14
๏‚› Identity, place
๏‚› Preserving a history
๏‚› Gourmet Southern
comfort food
Theme: Seeking Authenticity
๏‚› Advocacy
๏‚› Imagery
RSS 2014
15
Theme: Chef Connections
๏‚› Chef Network
๏‚› Collaboration
๏‚› Birmingham Chefs
RSS 2014
16
Next Steps
๏‚› 18 interviews
๏‚› Analysis of Data
๏‚› Black Belt
RSS 2014
17
Conclusion
๏‚› Chefs point of view provides unique
perspective of local food movement
๏‚› Investigates โ€œcelebrity chefโ€ potential to
influence movement
๏‚› Examines glamorization of Southern food
culture and the consequences
RSS 2014
18
Thank you!
RSS 2014
19
Contact Me
Devin L. Walker
Email: DLW0015@auburn.edu
Cell: (334)294-8911
Michelle R. Worosz
Office: 334-844-5682
Fax: 334-844-5639
E-mail: mrw0016@auburn.edu
RSS 2014
20

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Grits and Gout du Terroir: The Taste of Place in Southern Food Culture

  • 1. Grits and Gout du Terroir: The Taste of Place in Southern Food Culture Devin Yeomans1 Michelle R. Worosz 1,2,3 Auburn University 1Department of Agricultural Economics and Rural Sociology 2Alabama Agriculture Experiment Systems 3Institute for Food Systems RSS 20141
  • 2. Introduction ๏‚› Increased interest in โ€œalternativeโ€ foods may now be a social movement, or a set of social movements in response to industrial agrifood system. ๏‚› Restaurant chefs may contribute to this movement by creating meanings and symbols surrounding food. RSS 2014 2
  • 3. Literature Agrifood ๏‚› Barriers (eg.,Schmit, 2012; Curtis & Cowee,2009 ) ๏‚› Farm to Table (eg., Pepinksy&Thilmany, 2004) ๏‚› Terroir (eg.,Bessiere, 1998; Van Leeuwen, 2006) Social Movement ๏‚› Framing Processes (eg., Benford & Snow, 2000; McArthy & Zald, 1977) ๏‚› Collective Action Frames (eg., Polleta & Jasper, 2001; McAdam et. al, 1996) RSS 2014 3
  • 4. Research Questions 1) How do key decision makers within the restaurant industry perceive their ability to influence social change surrounding local food issues? 2) What beliefs and values influence sourcing decisions within the restaurant industry? 3) What barriers do restaurant chefs face as they incorporate local ingredients into their menus? RSS 2014 4
  • 5. Research Questions Cont. 4) How do executive chefs use the idea of terroir to create a sense of place that is unique to the Southeastern United States? 5) How might romanticizing Southern foodways mask historical and current instances of injustice? RSS 2014 5
  • 6. Methods: Data Collection ๏‚› Pretest ๏‚› Snowball Sampling ๏‚› 30 interviews with chefs using local ingredients ๏‚› Semi-structured interview guide ๏‚› Observation of signage, website, menus, and wait staff ๏‚› IRB Approval # 14-050 EX 1402 RSS 2014 6
  • 7. Social Change Beliefs and Values Barriers to Local Sourcing Terroir Collective Action Frames Customer behavior Consumer education Chef involvement in the local food movement Chef beliefs Chef values Access Barriers Price Barriers Supply Barriers Ecology Culture Production Quality Localness Symbols Meanings Language Methods: Analysis RSS 2014 7
  • 9. Participants ๏‚› 14 are male ๏‚› Restaurants ๏‚› 12 are privately owned ๏‚› 4 are corporately owned ๏‚› 1 hotel ๏‚› 1 private country club ๏‚› 1 regional chain RSS 2014 9
  • 11. Findings: Local Sourcing RSS 2014 11 ๏‚› 30%-80% of ingredients ๏‚› Benefits to producers, consumers, and community ๏‚› Barriers
  • 12. Findings: Themes ๏‚› Defining Local ๏‚› Creating the taste of the South ๏‚› Seeking Authenticity ๏‚› Chef Connections RSS 2014 12
  • 13. Theme: Defining โ€œLocalโ€ ๏‚› Degrees of โ€œlocalnessโ€ ๏‚› Relationships โ€œI went in search of making first name acquaintances and looking for how I could attach a first name to my food instead of a brand name.โ€ -Executive Chef at privately owned restaurant- RSS 2014 13
  • 14. Theme: Taste of the South RSS 2014 14 ๏‚› Identity, place ๏‚› Preserving a history ๏‚› Gourmet Southern comfort food
  • 15. Theme: Seeking Authenticity ๏‚› Advocacy ๏‚› Imagery RSS 2014 15
  • 16. Theme: Chef Connections ๏‚› Chef Network ๏‚› Collaboration ๏‚› Birmingham Chefs RSS 2014 16
  • 17. Next Steps ๏‚› 18 interviews ๏‚› Analysis of Data ๏‚› Black Belt RSS 2014 17
  • 18. Conclusion ๏‚› Chefs point of view provides unique perspective of local food movement ๏‚› Investigates โ€œcelebrity chefโ€ potential to influence movement ๏‚› Examines glamorization of Southern food culture and the consequences RSS 2014 18
  • 20. Contact Me Devin L. Walker Email: DLW0015@auburn.edu Cell: (334)294-8911 Michelle R. Worosz Office: 334-844-5682 Fax: 334-844-5639 E-mail: mrw0016@auburn.edu RSS 2014 20