Jan 2018 photography course basics segment
•Download as PPTX, PDF•
1 like•174 views
Learn Basic Photography - The exposure triangle and more!
Recommended
More Related Content
What's hot
What's hot (20)
Similar to Jan 2018 photography course basics segment
Similar to Jan 2018 photography course basics segment (20)
Recently uploaded
Recently uploaded (20)
Jan 2018 photography course basics segment
- 1. WELCOME LETS GET TO KNOW EACH OTHER
- 2. Who are you and what’s your “WHY?”
- 3. What Is Photography? History CreativityArt
- 4. What Makes A Great Photographer? Passion Vision Knowledge Relationship Storytelling
- 5. Lessons 1.Rules Rules Rules 2.Green Does NOT MEAN GO 3.You and I 4.What will we learn 5.Expectations and Art Show
- 6. The Equipment and Vocabulary Graphic Borrowed from Shani Photography
- 8. CAMERA VS OUR EYES
- 9. Comparison: Camera vs Eyes CAMERA • Lens • Retina • Pupil • Blinking • Sensitivity YOUR EYES • Lens • Sensor or Film • Aperture • Shutter (kind of) • ISO
- 10. ANGEL OF VIEW Our Eyes The back of our eyes are curved so we are provided with a gift of peripheral vision. However our peripheral vision is only useful for seeing motion not detail. Camera: The Camera’s angle of view is determined by the focal length of the lens and the sensor size of the camera so it has a more narrow angle of view. To see what our eyes naturally see requires a fisheye lens.
- 11. The images we see are really our mind's reconstruction of objects based on input provided by the eyes. We recognize shapes, colors, and textures to draw conclusions. Its not the actual light received by our eyes that forms the images.
- 12. Content Overload! Im SO LOST! • Use what you see and how you see it to think about how to make your camera capture your vision • Focal Length - The distance between the end of the lens and the sensor. • Angle of View - How wide you or respectively your lens can see! • 2 sensors - Full Frame or FX and APS-C or DX (both mean cropped view)
- 13. DYNAMIC RANGE Histogram: A graphical representation of the tonal values of your image. It shows the amount brightness found your photograph ranging from black (0% brightness) to white (100% brightness)
- 14. THE EXPOSURE TRIANGLE ISO - APERTURE - SHUTTER
- 15. ExposureTriangle-ISO ISO - International Standards Organization ”Normal" range of ISO is about 200 to 1600 Low ISO – Bright Light High ISO – Low Light
- 16. Records Red, Green, and Blue Color Amounts Wires within the camera carry magnetic impulses The Impulses cause interference The interference adds more RGB to the recording As the ISO increases so does the amount of noise that the sensor interprets How ISO Works?
- 17. ISO-TheTechSide
- 18. THE ART OF EXPOSURE Find The Button!! ISO - In Action
- 19. Aperture 2nd Realm In Exposure Triangle
- 20. Wide or Large Aperture Narrow or Small Aperture
- 21. f11 f8 f5. 6 f4 f2. 8 f16 Each F-Stop UP (opening up) light is doubled. Each F-Stop DOWN, (stopping down) light is halved
- 22. Shutter 3rd Realm In Exposure Triangle
- 23. The Shutter is a metal curtain in front of the sensor that opens to allow light to pass.
- 24. Why Is The Shutter Important? Sharpness Motion Blur
- 25. What Shutter Speed To Use Nascar / Sports Still Life / Portraits Landscapes / Waterfalls Low Light / City Lights @ Night
- 26. PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER!!
- 28. How Do I Know Where To Start With My Settings? METERING
- 31. “ ” SHOOT ON PURPOSE, WITH PURPOSE! LAURA SITA Homework!
- 32. Hom ewor k ASSIGNMENT: USING ALL YOU HAVE LEARNED TODAY 1. Choose a subject outside. Shoot from a seated position so your can take the same shot each time. Set your ISO to 400 for Shutter and Aperture Priority modes. Shoot in the following modes: 2. Auto: Camera does all the work 3. Aperture Priority: Your set the Aperture, the camera does the rest. 4. Shutter Priority: You set the Shutter, the camera does the rest. 5. Manual: You control the ISO, Aperture, and Shutter. (You are to determine ISO) 6. Shoot no more than 12 images (3 in each mode). Choose the best image of the bunch, Print and 8x10 capture on provided photo paper. On an index card title it, describe it, and place in your portfolio. Be prepared to present your work. (I will help you if needed)
Editor's Notes
- I am Ms Sita – I live an adventurous life purposed to honor God by positively impacting the lives of others. I have 3 children 17-28. I own 2 companies, Purgioia Images and Dare 2B More. One is a photography company specializing beauty portraiture. The second is a life coaching, teaching and training company purposed to empower women and teens to create an ecosystem that can sustain the life they want. I love everything photography and I hope to teach you to love it too.
- Share with me your name, age, and the reason you want to become a photographer! Think about your answer carefully because it will be your reminder for why the boring stuff matters. My reason… I love the feeling I get when my clients see all of their beautiful through my eyes. its the emotion and relationship of it all.
- Before you can learn something you must first understand what it is. Photography is using light to validate existence. Photography is History, Memories, Creativity, Imagination, and Art. The word photograph comes from the greek words phos and graphe, which mean light and drawing, respectively. Thus to create a photograph, in the strictest definition, literally, means to paint with light.
- First you must have passion for it! You must love the idea of it! Great Photographers have a vision. Your mind cant help but look at everything through a lens. You must have working knowledge of your equipment, composition, and posing. You must have a working understanding of light and shadows and understand the relationship between them and the buttons on your camera. Being a great photographer means almost more than anything else, you have crafted the art of storytelling and emotional connectivity to your subject. Great Photographers shoot with intention. I believe the greatest photographers are those whose mission is to expose the soul of it’s subjects so that others can build a relationship and connect at a level they are unable to otherwise. They shoot because they want to share or tell a story. They shoot on purpose with purpose.
- So not to bust your creative bubble but like all things in life, photography is filled with rules. There are rules for exposure, rules for posing, rules for composition, rules for formatting and sizing and rules for post processing. Here is the rule you all will be tested on so write this down. All rules applicable to creativity are meant to be learned so you can break them. In photography you can not break the rules until you understand why they matter. By the way that is true of all things in life. Rules are designed for order and balance when we break those rules we disrupt that order and balance so before you break them you must understand their reason for being. Look at your camera dials. Do you see the green auto option. Good never look at it again. It does not exist for your photography from this moment forward. Green means I am clueless with a nice camera. You all are brilliant creative artists so NEVER use green again not for any reason. This is your class and it is also mine. Here are the rules that can not and will not be broken or your class will be over. Simple: Respect…You respect you, your peers and me and I will will respect me, you, and your peers. This is a safe environment to learn, to make mistakes, to ask questions, to try, and to grow and yes to fail. If you are not failing you are not learning and failing to learn is living life in a bubble and that is simply not acceptable. No one will be permitted to do anything to upset that balance. Got it...great! I am a photographer. I do not know all there is to know but I do know what I know and I will do my best to share it all with you. We will learn photography from the basics of what photography is, to your camera buttons, lighting, composition, and a whole lot more in the middle. This class is going to go really fast and I will throw a lot at you. So buckle up and hang on we are going on a journey! My expectations are this: Write these down so no one can say they didnt know. 1) Show up 2) show up prepared without excuses 3) Ask questions when you arent sure 4) Your homework is not optional again no excuses Why because you are brillent creative artists who are capable and competent to do great things and I will fail you if you dont! 5) Try …..I don't care if you produce horrible images if you give me your best. I do very much care if you dont try. Failing to try means you dont respect you, your peers, or me! See Lesson 3! My email is and phone is. Armed with that you no longer have excuses for failing to meet my expectations. The art show: Photography is a hobby yes, but its also a business. At the end of our journey you will have the opportunity to showcase your work. This is your time to shine to share with everyone how much you have learned and what beauty you see in the world. Additionally you will have the opportunity to experience what it feels like to get paid for your work. For the art show: You will be required to invite a minimum of 3 people who are not your mom, dad, grandparents, etc. They must be people who have the ability to purchase your images. This teaches you marketing and the importance of taking pride in your work so you want to share it. You will have to dress up..yes that means nice clothes. This teaches you to be professional but it also will give you a greater sense of confidence. You will be required to name, describe, and price your work because these things will allow you ownership of your work and your worth. The #1 question I get is how much do I list my work for? Let me ask you a question..what is the cheapest store to buy clothes from? What is the most expensive store to buy clothes from? Is either place the wrong place to shop? No of course not. Its a matter of preference and budget. You have to decide for yourselves are you Walmart or Nordstroms of somewhere in between? Neither is wrong but it is your perception of your works value that matters so you must look at your work and assign to it the value you feel is right. Lastly you will be required to present your work to the crowd. You will come before your admirers say the following: Write this down because you will want to craft your speech. Hello and thank you for coming? (you must always show appreciation to those who support you) My name is Laura Sita and I am a brilliant creative artistic photographer! I would like to share with you my piece called.....What inspires me about this image is….. This is what will sell your image. To make sure that you are ready...all homework pieces will be presented in this format! This is to teach you public presenting and selling. Last piece of business is the money from your art show. Artists have agents. Agents make money by selling art...your art... Those agents get 30%...I am your agent. TMA is your agent? So we will take 10% each. Charity and community and giving are super important values to have so you as a class will decided on a charity and they will get the other 10%! Any questions? Lets get going!
- Camera Point and Shoot / DSLR Lens Fixed, Zoom, Telephoto, Wide Angle,
- Exposure! That’s all, that’s the secret to great photos…well its a pretty big one! So what can we control when it comes to light! In the very best of situations we can control the Color, Direction, Quantity, and Quality. Hear this and one might say a studio setting is the only space that allows full control all 4 but that is simply not true. Thanks to things like WB and gels we can always control the color. We have tools like reflectors and modifiers to control the direction. Our cameras give us the gifts of Shutter and Aperture to control the quantity. As for the quality, we have tools in our kit like reflectors and modifiers and ISO and Flashes. The key is to see the light, understand its behavior and ultimately know what you want. Tall order right...lets break it down. To understand exposure think of light like rainfall for a moment. Achieving the correct exposure is a lot like collecting rain in a bucket. While the rate of rainfall is uncontrollable, three factors remain under your control: the bucket's width, the duration you leave it in the rain, and the quantity of rain you want to collect. You just need to ensure you don't collect too little rain("underexposed"), but that you also don't collect too much rain ("overexposed"). The key is that there are many different combinations of width, time and quantity that will achieve this. For example, for the same quantity of water, you can get away with less time in the rain if you pick a bucket that's really wide. Alternatively, for the same duration left in the rain, a really narrow bucket can be used as long as you plan on getting by with less water. BRING IN A 3 BUCKETS AND 3 WATER SOURCES TO DEMONSTRATE. Draw a fill line on each bucket use a small bottle mug and pitcher to demonstrate. Small bucket large bottle Large bucket small bottle medium bucket medium bottle etc.
- 1. Eye is a live organ for sight whereas a camera is an equipment to capture images. 2. Eyes uses live cells to detect light while the camera uses a diaphragm to detect light and capture images. 3. Stereoscopic vision of eyes allow 3 dimensional images while camera captures only 2 dimensional images. 4. The pupil adjusts the size while focusing while in a camera lens moves to change focus. 5. Eyes have blind spots while cameras do not. (this is kind of true) Whats the difference between how we see and how our camera sees? The first and the foremost difference between an eye and a camera is that an eye cannot record an image. Our eyes are able to look around a scene and dynamically adjust based on subject matter, whereas cameras capture a single still image. For example, our eyes can compensate as we focus on areas of varying brightness, can look around to encompass a broader angle of view, or can alternately focus on objects at a variety of distances. A camera sees in 2 dimensions while the eye sees in 3 dimensions. This means that when we see with our eyes, we see height, width and depth. With a camera we only see height and width. There is no way to have the depth in the picture as a photograph is a flat medium.
- Both have a lens to accept light. Both have a sensor to process the light and both have a device to adjust to the amount of light received to achieve proper exposure. When you walk into a dark room. Pupil dilates or gets larger so more light can enter. When you step into the bright sunlight your pupils become smaller allowing in less light. This is how your camera aperture works too. Dark = bigger Light = smaller. At the same time your eyes are adjusting to the light by staying open longer or blinking faster. This is like your shutter. Darker = less blinking brighter = more. All of that happens because of our eyes sensitivity to light. Our cameras sensitivity is called ISO. Less light = need to become more sensitive or higher ISO more light means less sensitive or lower ISO.
- The back of our eyes are curved so we are provided with a gift of peripheral vision. However our peripheral vision is only useful for seeing motion not detail. The Camera’s angle of view is determined by the focal length of the lens and the sensor size of the camera so it has a more narrow angle of view. The focal length of the lens is the distance between the lens and the image sensor when the subject is in focus, usually stated in millimeters (e.g., 28 mm, 50 mm, or 100 mm). In the case of zoom lenses, both the minimum and maximum focal lengths are stated, for example 18–55 mm. To see what our eyes naturally see requires a fisheye lens. An image sensor is the part of the camera’s hardware that captures light and converts what you see through a viewfinder or LCD monitor into an image. Your camera’s sensor determines how good your images look and how large you can scale them or print them. Image quality depends not only on the size of the sensor, but also on how many millions of pixels or light-sensitive photosites can fit on it, and the size of those pixels. The soul of a digital camera is its sensor. The sensor size also affects what you see through the viewfinder—the relationship between what you’re shooting and what actually gets recorded in the frame and passed through to the memory card. Smaller sensors apply a crop factor to lenses, capturing less of the scene than full-frame sensors do. There are several sensor sizes but we are only going to look at 2. Full Frame and APS-C. With full-frame sensors, you have no crop factor, so what you see through the viewfinder is what you shoot. APS-C are smaller so they will apply a crop to what you see. On a nikon..this is referred to as DX. This is important to know because if you have a DX sensor it will not support an FX or full frame lens where an FX sensor will support both a DX and an FX lens. In general if you have a choice buy a full frame format camera and the corresponding full frame lenses.
- We are born without knowledge of object names. As we see new things and learn new words associated with those things, our brain creates files so to speak, combining the image and the word so that when we see that shape, color and texture combined again we have a way to recall it. What we really see are light and shadows to create shape we then assign a word to that shape. Cameras freeze and document what we see using light.
- That was a ton of information that Im sure has you thinking Im so lost. Its ok here is what I want you take away from that information.
- Dynamic Range is the range between true white and true black. We don't ever see true white or true black only a variance between them based on light intensity. Our eyes can quickly shift and compensate for the light variance. Dynamic range refers to the total amount of light being captured in a given scene. If you are taking a picture with a lot of bright light in addition to a lot of dark shadows, the scene could be described as having a great deal of dynamic range (high contrast). If the scene is lit in such a way that it is neither too bright nor too dark it could be said to have a low dynamic range (low contrast). Dynamic range is important to consider when taking pictures. An understanding of the situation in which you’re shooting is essential to capture the shots you want. You can use your cameras histogram to get a feel for what the tonal range of your scene is. A histogram is a graphical representation of the tonal values of your image. In other words, it shows the amount of tones of particular brightness found in your photograph ranging from black (0% brightness) to white (100% brightness) To recreate what our eyes see in terms of dynamic range, some photographers use a technique called HDR or High Dynamic Range. In essence this is taking multiple exposures some under exposed and some over exposed and then using software to lay them on top of one another to create and image closer to what our eyes see. Done incorrectly you get a fake looking image.
- We will circle back to dynamic range throughout the course. I wanted to introduce you to the concept because its super important to understand before taking an image because what you see in terms of light and dark and how you want to capture that will determine your camera settings, but for now we are going to focus on The Exposure Triangle. Simply put it is how the combination of 3 variables work together to create the exposure of an image: aperture, shutter speed, and ISO. For exposure to be correct, all 3 must be balanced. If you adjustment of one, you must adjust the others to maintain the same exposure. They do not only affect exposure, but are also the largest determiners of the global appearance of an image; thus, their mastery is absolutely crucial both for technique and composition. There is no one right exposure. A good exposure for you is determined by how bright you want the image to be. That being said, there are generally acceptable limits for under exposed and over exposed. You subject as a general rule should always be in focus, well lit, and show detail. For example a brides dress is white and may have beads or sequences. If you over expose it, the dress will still be white but the detail of it will no longer be present.
- We are going to start with ISO! ISO is the abbreviation for International Standards Organization, and it is a standardized industry scale for measuring sensitivity to light. With today's digital cameras you can sometimes go as low as 50 or as high as 204,800. The lower the number, the less sensitive your camera is to light. That means low ISOs, like 100 or 200, are most often used in bright situations (like sunlight). Each time you double the ISO (for example, from 200 to 400), the camera needs only half as much light for the same exposure. We will revisit stops of light in a moment. Higher ISO means your camera is more sensitive to light and is used in low light situations.. The lower the light the greater need for a tripod. ISO 1000 and above are used for very low light situations. There is a cost to using the higher ISO numbers though so its always best to go with the lowest possible ISO or use a tripod.
- The short answer is ISO records red green and blue color light waves in order to form an image via magnetic impulses along wires in your camera. The higher the ISO the more vibration occurs creating grain or noise on your image. Lets look at how that process really works.
- To further explain ISO lets look at a diagram. ISO is one of those rules where the saying just because you can doesn't mean you should applies. One big Sensor that has 1000’s of tiny sensors called pixels. When you take a picture, the sensor receives light in waves of Red, Blue, and Green. The sensors job is to record the color waves and decide how much red, blue, and green is coming in. Each individual pixel decides what the color should be based on the RGB it receives. When your scene contains low light, we use the ISO to tell our camera to change what it perceives as 100% of the RGB. Heres the problem; lets say you have an electrical wire…There is an electrical signal that travels along the wire. If you add another wire laying right by it, it too has its own magnetic field. When they cross, the magnetic fields interfere with each other. The signal then gets changed. When the room is completely black, the sensor still thinks its senses something because of the electric signals that come from the circuit boards of the camera. That noise or interference gets layered onto of the RGB the sensor is reading. When you push up the ISO up, the interference becomes greater so the interference laid onto of each sensor increases creating a grain or noise in your image. Noise distorts color and adds grain or a texture look that is not pleasing. It also causes the image to lose sharpness because the colors are muting. ISO doubles each time you adjust it. Each doubling is 1 stop of light. Its always best for image quality to use the lowest possible ISO you can for the given scene.
- Locate your ISO button and shift your ISO up and down. Take a snap shot at 200 – 600 – 1000 Do you see how adjusting this one button increases the amount of light your image has. Take note of how the quality of your image changes as you increase the ISO.
- Locate your aperture dial selector. Use it to change the numbers up and down.
- Aperture can be very confusing but I am going to do my best to simply it for you. Aperture is a measure of how open or closed the lens’ iris is. We refer the aperture opening with F-Stops. Each click or number change, changes the size of the lens opening. These f-stops can be measured in 1/3 stops, ½ stops, and full stops. This is where things get a little confusing. A wider aperture corresponds with lower f-numbers. A lower f-stop like F2.8 means more light will be let in by the lens. A higher f number, like f/16 means less light is allowed to reach your cameras sensor. Not all lines start with the same f-stop number. There is a technical math formula to calculate f-stops.
- In photography, an F-Stop either doubles the incoming light or cuts the incoming light in half. Taking your f-stop from a lower number to a higher number is called stopping down and decreases the amount of incoming light in half. Likewise, moving two stops higher called “opening up” decreases incoming light by four and so on. F-stops can be very confusing because the mathematical formula is challenging to remember so we are going to simplify it. You need to remember two numbers 1 and 1.4. If you double 1 you get 2. This is one stop of light. The number between 1 and 2 or a half a stop is 1.4. When you double 1.4 it becomes 2.8. A full stop up, 1 to 2 is fours times as much light. Remember each time you turn the down a click to a lower number you are doublng the amount of light so 2 clicks is 4x the light. A half a stop up 1. to 1.4 is double the amount of light. This is super important to understand because the same is true of the ISO and Shutter. Some cameras allow you to use ½ a stop while others allow you 1/3 a stop. In terms of clicks or dial turns. Changing
- Your Shutter is where the other side of the magic happens – it is responsible for creating dramatic effects by either freezing action or blurring motion. Shutter speed refers to how long the shutter remains open and thus, how long the sensor is exposed to light. Faster shutter speeds give the sensor less time to collect light and thus, result in a lower exposure. Slower shutter speeds allow more time for the sensor to collect light and result in a higher exposure. A higher shutter speed is to stop motion, whether that be camera shake or a subject that is moving, allowing us to maintain sharpness. Remember, as long as the shutter is open, the camera is essentially recording the position of elements in the frame; if one of those elements moves, the result will often be undesired blurriness. Understanding shutter speeds is critical to capturing sharp images…in genreal.
- A camera shutter is a curtain in front of the camera sensor that stays closed until the camera fires. When the camera fires, the shutter opens and fully exposes the camera sensor to the light that passes through the lens aperture. After the sensor is done collecting the light, the shutter closes immediately, stopping the light from hitting the sensor. The button that fires the camera is also “shutter release” or “shutter button”, because it triggers the shutter to open and close. Shutter speeds are typically measured in fractions of a second. If the shutter speed is fast, it can help to freeze action completely, Slow shutter speeds are used to photograph lightning or other objects at night or in dim light environments. Usually when using slow shutter speeds, a tripod is required to minimize motion blur. Landscape photographers intentionally use slow shutter speeds to create a sense of motion on rivers and waterfalls, while keeping everything else in focus. Like wise fast shutter speeds are used to stop motion or when tack sharpness is critical like sporting events, concerts, or really anytime a subject is moving and your goal is to freeze that moment without blur.
- Our Shutter is what allows us to stop motion or create motion blur. The Shutter is a tool for adding emotion to an image. Sharp crisp lines are dramatic, while soft milky lines are dreamy!
- Shutter speed measures how long your camera's shutter is left open during a shot. The longer it's open, the more light it lets in, and the greater your total exposure will be. Doubling your shutter speed means you have increased the exposure by 1 stop. Halving your shutter speed likewise is decreasing your light exposure by 1 stop. When shooting sports or moving objects a fast shutter speed is critical. When capturing still life or portraits shutter speed is less important.
- Your camera takes a photo. All available light enters through your lens. The amount of light is determined by your shutter and aperture. The light hits the sensor. The sensitivity to that light is determined by your ISO. The sensor then reads the colors of RGB and calculates your image based on those readings.
- Mastering the art of exposure is something that takes a lot of practice. In many ways it’s a juggling act. The most experienced photographers experiment with the combination of these 3 settings to achieved their desired exposure. Keep in mind that changing each element not only impacts the exposure of the image but each one also has an impact upon other aspects of it (ie changing aperture changes depth of field, changing ISO changes the grain of a shot and changing shutter speed impacts how motion is captured). The first key to all of this is learning to see light and shadows and then being able to judge the dynamic range from light to dark. The second key is understanding that photography is an expression of art so ultimately what you feel is the right exposure for your image will come down to how you want to share your vision with the world. The 3rd key is to put your camera in manual and practicing everyday. Take the same image numerous times with several different settings, changing only 1 element of the triangle at a time, then 2 at a time. Decide what you want to achieve; stop motion, capture a definition from beginning to end, allow motion to flow, only focus on one element allowing the rest to blur out, etc then take what you know about each element and adjust it to achieve what you hoped for. There is not a “right formula” as photography is art. Some of you will be drawn to light blown out images while others will want more true to life colors and depths still others will want dark rich vibrant colors. Some of you will be drawn to tight shooting capturing only a piece of the story while others will want to reveal the entire scene. All of you will be right based on what your vision is. That being said you must always think of your audience and how they will receive your vision. Images that are too over or under exposed will not often be well received so knowing how to find balance in your art is important.
- Metering is how your camera determines what the correct shutter speed and aperture should be, depending on the amount of light that goes into the camera and the sensitivity of the sensor. Back in the old days of photography, cameras were not equipped with a light “meter”, which is a sensor that measures the amount and intensity of light. Photographers had to use hand-held light meters to determine the optimal exposure. Obviously, because the work was shot on film, they could not preview or see the results immediately, which is why they religiously relied on those light meters. Today, every DSLR has an integrated light meter that automatically measures the reflected light and determines the optimal exposure. The most common metering modes in digital cameras today are: Matrix Metering (Nikon), also known as Evaluative Metering (Canon) Center-weighted Metering Spot Metering I have a short video to help better explain metering modes. Take Notes https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kkdPohgmICM
- Look through your view find and focus on a particular subject. Inside your cameras you should see a bar with several hash marks. The center line of that bar shows a longer hash mark. Turning your shutter dial to the right or left will move the bars closer or further away from that center mark. When the center mark is all you see illuminated your camera is indicating that your exposure if correct. The same will apply as you move the aperture command dial. The exposure your camera is outputting is based on which metering mode you have directed it to expose for. The thing you must understand about metering in camera is this is a guide, a place to start with your settings. Take an exposure based on the camera metering. Then using what you have learned about shutter, aperture, and ISO change the exposure settings to match your desired exposure.
- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=34jkJoN8qOI Demonstrate with a tether Besides indicating how much light is coming through a lens, aperture determines how blurry the “out of focus” parts of your image will be. You might be familiar with the “term depth of field”. Simply put, depth of field is the amount of space that is in-focus in your image. Lower f-stop numbers (1.2, 1.4, 1.8) will have much more camera blur than higher f-stop numbers (8, 11, 16). A shallow depth of field means that you only have a select portion of the image in crisp focus while everything else behind it fades to a blur. A wide depth of field means that the fore ground and the background are both in focus. This can create a problem when you need to let in a lot of light, but also need to have a wide depth of field. A quick solution would be grabbing a lens with a wider field of view because they have a wider depth of field compared to a telephoto lens. Lenses perform at their sharpest beginning at about 5.6 Image 1 shows the entire scene in focus. This reflects a deep depth of field. Image 2 shows a only the subject with detail the background can not be determined. This reflects a very shallow depth of field. Note: the dots of lights behind her. This is what is known as bokeh. Bokeh creates that dreamy bubbles of light feel. We will learn more about that in the future classes. Images 3,4,5 show a range of depth of field. Note the the same 70-200mm lens is being used to capture each image from the same shooting point at an aperture of 2.8 what is changing is my shutter speed and the focal length of the lens relative to the subject.
- Taking a picture of something is not what photographers are made for. Photographers always have a why in what they shoot. They have a story they want to tell. They have a vision they wish to share. You must look at a photograph and answer the question ”why am I shooting this? What is my goal? Before you ever press the capture button. You must think what is it that I see and what is it about this subject I want others to see? What is the best way to communicate what I see using my camera as a tool? From this moment forward you are not to take images simply because you think something is pretty or cool. From here on out when you decide I should take a picture of that…your first question is WHY? Your second question is “What story is being told by what I see? Your third question is “What do I want my viewers to see and feel from and about what I see? Forth step, Look at the Dynamic range of light to dark. Fifth step, Decide on your depth of field. NOW you can set your camera according to what you really want to shoot and share.