Bangladesh is a country where garment sector has been developed informally by the mostly illiterate people of the country. So there is lack of unprofessional and scientific way of management of production and the related other issues. Now, this sector is the main bread earner of the country from foreign sector. As its inception, the garment sector is not being modernised with the globalised atmosphere as per the requirement of the civilization especially compliance other human right issues resulting frequent unrest therefore. Still now some of the owners are not agree to increase the labor facilities rather to continue as the sweatshops while demanding to increase facilities from the buyer side. But, buyers are not willing to increase CM (cost of manufacturing), they have increased much the same in other countries. After the incidents of Tazreen Fashion and Rana Plaza. Government and garment owners should increase the facilities of the workers and finally the buyers should increase their rate to mitigate the situation.

1. Labour unrest in the Readymade Garment
Sector of Bangladesh: Am Empirical
Research
Md Zafar Alam Bhuiyan1
Abstract
Bangladesh is a country where garment sector has been developed informally by the mostly
illiterate people of the country. So there is lack of unprofessional and scientific way of
management of production and the related other issues. Now, this sector is the main bread
earner of the country from foreign sector. As its inception, the garment sector is not being
modernised with the globalised atmosphere as per the requirement of the civilization
especially compliance other human right issues resulting frequent unrest therefore. Still now
some of the owners are not agree to increase the labor facilities rather to continue as the
sweatshops while demanding to increase facilities from the buyer side. But, buyers are not
willing to increase CM (cost of manufacturing), they have increased much the same in other
countries. After the incidents of Tazreen Fashion and Rana Plaza. Government and garment
owners should increase the facilities of the workers and finally the buyers should increase
their rate to mitigate the situation.
Introduction:
Labour unrest is a prehistoric phenomenon in the history of industrialization. However,
Industrialization course needstwo classesof people - ownersorelite classand working class to work
together. Industrial Revolutionhistory in England in late 18th century files the troubles and fighting
back of workingclasspeople. Inthe unhygienic environment workers were to work for a long hours
for a little wage.They hadtolive inuntidy slumsof Lancashire andLondonandwere usuallydeprived
of nourishingfood,medicine andhealthcare benefits,andeducation for their children. The concept
of daycare was outof imagination andwomenwithchildrenhadtoworkinthe factorykeepingtheir
children asleep with sleeping syrup. Frederick Engels comments, “in truth, they were not human
beings; they were merely toiling machines in the service of the few aristocrats who had guided
historydowntothat time.”He furthersays,intellectually,theyweredead; lived only for their petty,
private interest, for their looms and gardens, and knew nothing of the mighty movement which,
beyondtheirhorizon,wassweepingthroughmankind” (TorofdarJuly07,2015). On the otherhand,in
course of time,thenthe governments realizedthe significanceof labor force and adopted wellbeing
policies such as increasing wages, fixing particular working hours, supporting
1
Assistant Professor, Department of Fashion Design & Technology, Shanto-Mariam University of
Creative Technology, Dhaka, Bangladesh and Ready Garment & Merchandising Expert

2. withtrainings,toestablishdaycare centersandschoolsforthe childrenof the workersetc.which
made the industrial revolutionpossible.
In that time the conceptof sweatshopsindifferent industrialized cities is yet the nightmare. Though
virtually the deadly sweatshops are absent in the modernized world but some of the nature of the
works, management and compliance issues of the factories and production houses, are helping to
recall the daring scenario of the same. Present condition of workforce of RMG industry of
Bangladesh, whichmaterialized inlate twentieth century, caneasilybe comparedwith the condition
of labors inEnglandat the beginningof Industrial revolution.Itseems thatsome revival of sweatshop
cruelty. Though the government is trying its best the owners association is yet to comprehend the
significance of the workforce. In Chicago in 1886, some 125 years ago, Garments workers fought
against working 12 hours a day and seven days a week. International Labor Day is observed in
commemorating the sacrifice every year on 1st May, of garment workers in Chicago while the
happeningstill almost remains same in Bangladesh. The disagreement of interests between buyer
and sellerof laborpowerisnoticeable and this has rising of trade union pressure group throughout
the world. The custom of the equivalent growth of the nationalist and the trade union movement,
which has originated in British India sustained during the Pakistan period down to the birth of
Bangladesh (by the blood shedding fighting of the people of Bangladesh). In British India, Bombay
Mill Hands Association, formedin 1890, firstof its type in India, gave momentum to the trade union
movement. ILO establishment of in 1919 provided a source of stimulation for the workers to
systematize themselves and shape their fortune.
However, Berch Berberoglu, in his book ‘Class, State and Development in India in Historical
Perspective’ views,withthe growthof industrial workingclass in India, a conflict between labor and
capital intensified. The capitalist attack on workers’ earnings and democratic rights met with rigid
confrontation from organized labor and trade union movement and led to the radicalization of
workingclass ina large portion,whose demandsbecame increasinglypolitical. Vulnerable withthese
developments and apprehensive of a general social explosion based on a radical alliance between
workersandpeasants,the bourgeoisie state became more oppressive.Consequently, it also opened
itsdoor to company monopolies, resultingseekingrefuge inimperialism.”Formthe historydescribed
afore isthe palpable thatthe outburstof workforce obtainingfromtheirfightfora modest living can
neverbe cowed.Coercive measuresto disbandthe confrontation only madden the workforce which
can leada revolution infact.Itis a demand of time to take necessary steps to solve labour unrest in
RMG industry nowadays.
Literature Review:
Readymade Garmentisone of the major sourcesof industrial employmentinBangladesh.The size of
employment was about 2 million in 2007 with a 24 percent yearly growth of employment.
Furthermore, it has created employment opportunities for millions of destitute women of
Bangladesh. It’sreallysurprisingthatRMG sectorgrew by satisfyingitsclientsacrossthe world bythe
mostlyuneducatedandlessskilledwomenof thiscountry withthe USA and Europe (A. A. Mustafizur
Rahman 2006). Bangladesh is facing a competition after the closure of quota system in 2005,
especiallyfromIndiaandChina. But,IndiaandChinahave an additional comparative advantage over

3. Bangladesh since they have skilled labour forces, advanced technology and more significantly the
backwardlinkage support(Abdullah2009). The main advantagesof Bangladeshi Readymadegarment
industryare the cheap labourforces and availability of the same. On the other hand, Bangladesh is
further challenged because most of the labours are uneducated, unskilled with low productivity
whichresultsinincreasingperunitcostof production.A surveyRMG sector revealed that 20 percent
workers in sample enterprise are unskilled, 30 percent workers are semi-skilled, and interestingly
they are the operators! (D. B. Mustafizur Rahman 2007). Forty-four percent of senior operators are
skilledof total workersand surprisingly, only 5.7 percent are professional and management staff in
the total workforce.The quantity of skilledworkersishighin large factories (46-53%) than small and
mediumfactories.The quantity of unskilledworkersishighinsmall and medium enterprises (18-26)
than that of large enterprises (16-18) (D. B. Mustafizur Rahman 2007)
Nonetheless,the RMG firmsinBangladesh have been facing enormous pressure from international
buyers for compliance with their codes of conduct and it needs to concentrate to improve the
working environment in factories (Haider, 2007). Workers have limited choice of job environment
due to highunemploymentrate (Sarker1997). Moreover,labourturnoveringarmentindustryisvery
high as well (Sarker 1997). A study has found that 74 percent in knit factories, 68 percent in woven
enterprises, and 81 percent in sweater factories do not provide appointment letter to the workers
(Rahman,Bhattacharyaand Moazzem, 2008). Though still in Bangladesh labour cost in the cheapest
leading the competitive advantage over in the RMG sector of Bangladesh (in Bangladesh) due to
shortage of skilled labour force, the wage rate has increased comparing to other competing
countries. However,itfinallyreduces Bangladesh’s competitive advantage in terms of labour costs
as Bangladesh is going to lag-behind from the competition. As Garment industry of Bangladesh is
labourintensive,potentiallabourforce is essential to face the upcoming competition in this sector.
Competitivenessinthe RMGsector dependsonthe productivity of RMG workforce (Abdullah 2009).
Workingenvironmentandjobsatisfactionare the twoprimaryfactorsthat influencethe productivity
inthe RMG sector(Abdullah2009). By increasing job satisfaction and improving work environment,
RMG manufacturing companies can increase productivity. Competitiveness in the RMG industry
depends on enhancing workers productivity that depends on improving working environment and
job satisfaction. By giving workers Job satisfaction giving worker’s psychological comfort and
incentives working environment can be peaceful. Soothing working environment increases the
mental motivation.The factorieswithlowerproductivityhave workers with low job satisfaction and
poor workingcondition.However,jobsatisfactionhasmore influenceonthe productivity of workers
compared with working condition (Abdullah 2009)
Involvingrelativelyalarge numberof people, laborunrestisasocial problem.Itseemstobe a global
happeningfromEast to West,Northto South .Regardlessof the inspiringproceed inlivingstandards
inthe westernindustrializingcountriesoverthe nineteenthcentury',includingthe enactmentof
selectedsocial reformmeasures .
In Western Europe, labor unrest reached its climax during the period 1975-1979: up to 21 million
strikersfor114 millionworkersoralmosttwostrikers for every ten workers. As regards the number
of workers involved, Italy is far ahead of the other countries with an average of over 7 million
workers(may be the worker in Paris were more aggressive than others) on strike per year for the
entire period (1970-93) which symbolizes almost 55 per cent of the western European workforce

4. involvedinindustrial agitation (Aligisakis, 1997:78-79). The situation of labor unrest arc found in all
countries where people work for others in paid employment.
The export-orientedapparel industryof Bangladesh, commonly knownasreadymade garment(RMG)
occupies a unique position in economy of Bangladesh as it’s the main contributor of the foreign
earnings of the country. It is the main exporting industry, which experienced an extraordinary
enlargementduringthe lastthree decades.Bytaking benefitof cheaplaborandquota-based market
inthe USA andEU underthe condition of Multi FiberArrangement(MFA) of GATT, it accomplished a
highprofile intermsof economicgrowthof the country.The industrystartedits unassuming journey
inlate 1970s and enjoyed anunexpected rise from 30 enterprises in 1980 increased to 4825 in 2008.
Almost the average growth rate of this sector was over 20% by the last two decades. This single
sector alone earns about 80% of yearly foreign exchange of the country. GDP contribution reaches
13% in fiscal year 2009-2010. No single sector could accelerate the industrialization process in the
country as the RMG sector could d since independence. RMG sector has created employment
opportunityforabout3.5 millionpeople where mostof themare uneducatedandunskilled. Majority
persons of the garment workers are female. Garment sector has been able to relieve the country
fromthe burdenof joblessness andatthe same time add to the empowerment of women to a good
extent. Consequently, this sector is playing a vital role in socio-economic development of the
country.But thissectoris strugglingwithanumberof problems. Clashbetweenownersandworkers,
shortage of gas and electricity, labor unrest, poor port facility, poor infrastructure, lead time
complexities, conspiracy of home and abroad, moving competitors in the quota free international
marketare some of themwhichare posinga huge threatto itsendurance.Nowadays,laborunrestin
the RMG sector hasbeena realityof serious anxiety.Electronic and print media cover news of labor
unrest in RMG sector in one place or another across the country almost every day. Setting up new
minimum wage for the garment workers and issue of implementing the new wage structure have
beenthe maincausesof recentlaborunrestsacross the country.The conflicttakesshape of violence
and wreckage. The agitated workers come to the street and go storming on vehicles and garment
factories. However,the attackedfactoryis declaredclosed andmany labour leaders are arrested by
the law enforcers, many workers lose jobs or undergo from uncertainty; losing interest in the
uncertainty, the international buyers cancel their orders and divert to another market. There is
ultimately a deadlock situation in the industry. Because of the hard working capacity of the labour
force the growth of RMG sector in Bangladesh is amazing. Rashid, (2010) observes, “It is a story of
success, of winning against all odds by the hard labouring manpower. Here in the history of the
nation is with the flourished of the RMG sector. It is the ultimate story of the nation, which has
vowed to overcome all the barriers with limited resources and immense fervour. It never could be
mentionedas“Veni Vidi Vici." rather, it is a tale of sweating, a tale of rising, from the starting small
and finally finding the glory. But by labour unrest this glory is being diminished day by day in this
sector. This study is designed to unearth the causes of labour unrest and search the areas where
Public-Private Partnership can work to address the problem.
Recently, labor unrest in RMG sector of Bangladesh has been a matter of serious concern. RMG
sector,withinthree decades,ithasbeenaflourishingsectorafterstartingthe modestjourneyin late
1970s (Sarker1997). Contributionof the RMG sectorinnational economy is the major portion of our
foreign earnings. It is the largest sector of employment in Bangladesh where around 4 million of
workers are working, most of who are landless, poor, uneducated and unskilled women from the
rural areas of the country (Chowdhury Golam Hossan February 2012). A huge investment is there

5. with best expertise and some expert man power support from the others countries like India Sri
Lanka, Philippines, Thailand and China. RMG sector has able to change the socio-economic
development of the country in a certain extend (Bhuiyan 2012). But, unfortunately, this sector is
infestedwithanumberof problemswhichare threateningthe very existence of this industry. Labor
unrestisthe main of the serious problems. To unearth the causes of labor unrest in the RMG sector
of Bangladesh ismaybe easybutthe solutions of the same are not easy. It also attempts to address
the problem from public-private cooperation perspective.
Through a private entrepreneurship, the RMG sector of Bangladesh has emerged in this country.
However, itisnotthe farawayfromgovernment orpublicconcern.Inall respect,itis a huge industry
for thiscountry. It requiresacollective effort to solve the existing problems. Cooperation between
public and private sectors can be a better option to solve the problem immediately. As the sector
involves stakeholders from both public and private sector, it is somewhere easier to involve the
society welfare team therein to address the problems. The team will motivate them easily.
Causes of labor Unrest:
1. Poor payment: in comparison with others countries, Bangladeshi Readymade Garment
workers are ill-paid. From the table 1, it is clear that though the garment workers earn the
largestportionof the foreignearnings(about86%),theyare ignoredand comparatively paid
less than half of the oil mills’ workers. More surprisingly, from the table 2, it is clear that
readymade garments workers of the country are paid only $ 0. 22/hour whereas, China
$1.88, India, $0.51 and Pakistan is paying $0.56. Turkey is in the top by paying $2.44
whereas, Bangladesh is in the bottom paying by $.022!
2. Irregular payment: Most of the factories don’t clear workers payment on time in the
readymade garment industry. Different factors are working there. Sometimes, garments
factoriesare short upby capital or cash inflow.On the otherhand,factoriesthatare engaged
insub contract work,hardlycan pay theirworkerspayment timely as the main factories pay
the subcontract factories after the successful shipment after a particular time (Bhuiyan
2012).
3. Overwork;readymade garmentsectoristhe arenawhere overworkisconsideredasasimple
phenomenon by the employers that the workers have to do it normally. Most of the time,
workers have tendency to do the same by different types of motivation. As our people are
emotional andthe factorysupervisingpeople caneasilymotivate thembytheirsweetwords.
Sometime, workers have to do the works as the employers imposed them to work by
threating them to fire from job, if the shipment is failure or for other difficulties (Haider
2007, June 01) (Bhuiyan 2012).
4. Physical &Mental harassment:Garmentsworkersare harassedbytheirsupervisors mentally
and even physically in different issues. There are some compliance issues regarding their
worksinthe factories.Hardlyare theyallowedtouse toiletsinthe midst of the work though
it may there be emergency in some cases. Some of the factories male and female workers
use same toilet by the ignorance of the authority concern.
5. Abuse:Abuse isverycommoninthe garmentindustry.Most of the time female workers are
abused by the co-workers or immediate supervisors (A. A. Mustafizur Rahman 2006).

6. Workers’rightsare violatedbythe authorityasthere isabsence of compliance as a whole in
the production area.
6. Absence of holiday & leave: In the readymade garment sector hardly there is leave for the
workers.Evensometimes,theycannotable the government holidays though it is their right
as human being. Supervising people sometimes, argue to set the job for the shipment
emergencyand to facilitate the workers by overtime payment. Some of the factories there
are goodplanningwithleave andholidaysnowadayswhichare comparativelyverynarrow in
the figure.
7. Working Environment: Readymade garment sector is the sector of sweatshop which is
historicallyhatredforitsputridworkingenvironment.Thisisthe age of globalization, hence,
garmentsectorrequiresthe well compliance workingenvironment to maximize the workers
right issues and to upheld the human right consequently. It’s natural that, sometimes the
supervisingpeople considerthe garmentsworkernotbetterthana slave thoughsome of the
factories are going to improve the working environment.
Recommendations:
Garment sector is the main bread earner of the country. To eliminate the barriers are mostly
required if we want to earn $ 50.00 billion by 2021. Following are the recommended outlines to
improve the situation.
1. Labor rights should be emphasized by the owners and supervisors of the readymade
garmentindustries.Still now in most of the factories there are no job letters confirmed by
the authority (Bhuiyan2012), whichismostlyneededforthe workersand others. In the job
letter, every things should be specifically written to be followed by the both parties
(workers and authority of the readymade garment factories).
2. Abuse and harassments of the workers should be stopped and the government should
followupthe allegations. Center for crisis solution should be set up by the government to
ensure the labor right according to the existing labor law of the country.
3. Workers payment should there be on time so that the workers can set their mind in the
work with motivation and dedication. Some of the garments (say Standard Group) have
takenverygoodstepslike rationingsupports,provident fund, gratuity and group insurance
for the workers. There is no record of labor unrest in the industry as the workers think to
develop the company is the ultimate development of themselves. Our concern is that, if
some of the companies can do this why not by the others?
4. Buyers or customers of the readymade garment industries should increase their wages or
CM as theyare payinginthe othercountries,like India,Vietnam, China, etc. Unfortunately,
the buyers are threatening to the garment owner to increase the wages of the garments
workers instead increasing the same from their side (Chowdhury Golam Hossan February
2012).
5. Revivifications of the garments sector (which is on the process after the Rana Plaza
accident) is mostly required to heightened the working facilities of the workers. Factories
relocationismostlyrequiredinsome cases as there is very limited facilities comparatively
others countries’ garment sector.

7. 6. Thoughit isveryearnestlyrequired by the opinions of others, but I am not in this situation
to supportthe otherexpertsalongwiththe buyersthattrade unions of the workers are the
main solution here to set the labor right. We have many failure sections due to only trade
unionsinthiscountry. Bangladesh railway, Bank sector, Bangladesh Jute Mills are the vital
examplesof failure orruindue to the anarchy of the trade unions. The leaders of the trade
unionsare linked with the empowered political parties and always able different types of
facilities without rendering the assigned responsibilities.
7. Governmentcanensure the future of the garmentworkersbyensuringtheirfuture facilities
like insurance against the job, by distributing the government Khas land or to set up
‘garmentvillage’- aresidential areas. There should be a criteria to distribute the flat to the
workers.Saya workerwhohave 20 years of record of worksuccessfullywill be eligible for a
flat by paying a minimum amount. There should be loan facility for them from the bank.
8. Garments worker are very busy in their work. Hardly have they got time for their kids to
lookaftertheireducation.Onthe contrary,the studentsare the future of the country. Their
academiclife ismostly neglectedthanothers.Our government should set up more schools
inthe residential areas of the garments’ workers of the country so their wards can receive
the education free of cost.
9. Trainingfacilitiesshouldbe increase for the garment workers so that they can devote their
inventivenessandtoincrease the productivity for the ultimate goal of development of the
garment sectors. China, Indonesia, Vietnam even India are the countries where garment
workersskillsare developed by trainings. Garments trainings institute should be set up by
our governmentwhere most recent technologies should be introduces with the garments
workers for their skills development.
Conclusion:
Bangladesh is the hub of Readymade Garment sector. Though there are many potentials for the
sector in this country, there are a lot of problem for the same. Labor unrest is one of them and we
can only address this type of problem by different types of modifications of the sector. Four areas
regarding labor unrest in the RMG sector such as investigating the incidents of labor unrest,
maintaininglawandordersituation,bridginggap between owners and workers and representation
of the work-force inthe decision-making process are identified where public and private sector can
work together to solve the problem. Huge modification is required for the sector to mitigate the
problem immediately.
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Appendix:
Table 01.Sector-wise minimum wage for workers, Source: Daily New Age, 13 Aug, 2010
Sl.No. Sector Minimumwage inTk.
01. Oil-mills 7420
02. Re-rolling 6100
03. Foundry 5100
04. Shipbreaking 4645
05. Ayurvedicunit 4350
06. Pharmaceutical 3645
07. Soap andcosmetic 3300
08. RMG 3000
09. Shrimpprocessingunit 2645
10. Tailoringshop 2350

9. The followingtable showsacomparative studyof perhourlabor wage inmajor RMG exporting
countries.
Table 02.Country-wiseper hour wage of garment workers
Source: The Daily New Age, 13 Aug, 2010
Grade withposts Basic House rent(40% of
Basic)
Medical
Allowance
NetSalary
Grade 1 :
Pattern
Master, Chief Quality
Controlleretc.
Tk.6500 TK.2600 Tk.200 Tk. 9300
Grade 2 : Mechanic,
Electrician,Cutting
Master etc.
Tk.5000 TK.2000 Tk.200 Tk. 7200
Grade 3 : Sample
Machinist,Senior
Machine Operatoretc.
Tk.2870 TK.1148 Tk.200 Tk. 4218
Grade 4 : Sewing
Machine Operator,
QualityInspector,Cutter,
Packer,Line Leader etc.
Tk.2615 TK.1046 Tk.200 Tk.3861
Country Perhour wage (US$)
Turkey 2.44
Mexico 2.17
China 1.88
Pakistan 0.56
India 0.51
Sri Lanka 0.44
Vietnam 0.44
Bangladesh 0.22

10. Grade 5 : JuniorMachine
Operator,JuniorCutter,
JuniorMarker etc.
Tk. 2395 TK.958 Tk.200 Tk. 3553
Grade 6 : Operatorof
General Sewing/
ButtonMachine etc.
Tk.2230 TK.892 Tk.200 Tk. 3322
Grade 7 : Assistant
SewingMachine
Operator,AssistantDry
washingman,Line Iron
man etc.
Tk.2000 TK.800 Tk.200 Tk. 3000