5. SODA
Stop
Stop everything that you are doing or thinking
about that is not related to the animal. Animals
live in the moment and we need to be there
with them.
6. SODA
Observe
Observe the animal from outside of their kennel for 10-15
seconds.
• Does the animal approach or retreat?
• Describe to yourself what the animal is doing in
objective observations.
– E.g. Sitting in the back corner of the kennel, head down,
tail tucked, back end shaking
– OR Comes to the front of the kennel, body soft/wiggly,
mouth open, ears back, tail wagging below spine level.
• Check the environment and medical history to find out
if there is anything that can explain the animal’s
behavior.
7. SODA
Decide
Decide what is the best course of action based
on the observations you just made.
Do not ever handle any animal that you do not
feel comfortable handling. If you do not feel like
you can handle an animal, tell your supervisor.
8. SODA
Act
Base your actions with the animal on your
observations and decisions you have just made
but be sure to remain flexible. If the animal’s
behavior changes you need to be ready to
change your behavior, too.
9. Observe Carefully
One sign of an animal care professional is careful
observation of the animal’s behavior and the
environment before, during and after handling
them.
Use SODA before and during all interactions with
shelter animals.
Let’s talk about how to observe animals and
describe their behavior using objective
observations…
10. Subjective vs. Objective
Subjective Description: Max looks scared, but he’s
sweet. I like him.
This tells us what you feel, but it doesn’t
explain what he’s doing that makes you think
he’s scared, or even what “sweet” means.
Importantly, it doesn’t tell us whether it is safe
to handle Max at this time.
11. How to Observe Carefully
Subjective Description: Max looks scared, but
he’s sweet. I like him.
Objective Description: Max is leaning against
the wall in the back corner of his kennel. His legs
are bent, and his back is arched. He is shaking.
There is a thick rope of drool hanging from his
mouth.
12. How to Observe Carefully
The objective description tells us exactly what Max is
doing so we can respond helpfully to his behavior.
Max is leaning against the wall in the back corner of his
kennel.
Ask yourself: Why isn’t Max coming forward?
Possible reasons: Fearful, sick, foot is stuck in his
bedding.
13. How to Observe Carefully
The objective description tells us exactly what
Max is doing so we can respond helpfully to his
behavior.
His legs are bent.
Often fearful dogs hold their bodies close to the
ground with bend legs, so he might be fearful.
14. How to Observe Carefully
The objective description tells us exactly what
Max is doing so we can respond helpfully to his
behavior.
His back is arched.
A dog’s back may arch when his legs are bent.
It may also arch if he has a belly ache.
15. How to Observe Carefully
The objective description tells us exactly what
Max is doing so we can respond helpfully to his
behavior.
He is shaking.
Fearful dogs may shake.
So may sick dogs, especially if they are in pain.
16. How to Observe Carefully
The objective description tells us exactly what Max
is doing so we can respond helpfully to his
behavior.
There is a thick rope of drool hanging from his
mouth.
Anxious dogs may drool.
So may sick dogs.
17. How to Observe Carefully
The key is to figure out what could be going on
with the dog before handling him.
With the dog just described he is likely
to be either sick or fearful based on the
behaviors observed.
18. How to Observe Carefully
The key is to figure out what could be going on with the dog before
handling him.
See if illness is the likely cause of the dog’s behavior by
checking for things like a limp, blood in the kennel or
discharge from eyes or nose. If you see anything like this,
tell your supervisor and write a vet check.
See if fear is the likely cause of the dog’s behavior by
checking for signs of illness first, then if obvious signs
aren’t seen, figure out how the dog responds to you by
moving in gentle ways around his kennel or crouching
down. If he withdraws he is likely to be afraid.
19. When observing canine body language it is
important take all of the parts and add them
together including the context in which it is
happening.
Example : Pupils dilated could be a result of a
dim room, but if the room is well lit it is most
likely fear.
The following chart provides some examples of
body language and how to possibly translate it.
20. Body Part Behavior What it means
Gazing, blinking relaxed, calm
Averting eyes/looking away Fearful, trying to avoid conflict
Pupils dilated poor lighting, fear or stress
Eyes wide, whites of eyes are visible Fear, stress or anxiety
Darting eyes Fearful, looking for an escape
Fixed stare challenging
Relaxed back calm, relaxed
Forward alert, attentive
Pinned Back fearful, defensive, playful in some cases
Panting hot, tired, anxious, excited
Lips long - relaxed relaxed, calm
Yawn
Tired (if just woken up or going to sleep),
anxious, stress (when not tired)
Lip Licking or tongue flicking fear, stress, nervous, anxious
Lips long - tense unsure, stress, anxious
Short Lips/Puckered growl
Snarl (lip curled, showing teeth) aggression
Growl aggressive or play
Neutral, at spine level, natural carriage relaxed, calm
Wagging in a relaxed, "swishing" manner friendly
down low, close to back legs fearful
tucked under belly fearful
High, up high over spine, very still or "flagging" alert, agitated, mostly unfriendly
soft, relaxed calm
wiggly friendly
Hackles up aroused
Cowering fearful
Exposing belly asking for some space, unconfident
Tense, stiff fearful or aggressive
Eyes
Ears
Mouth
Tail
Body
Safe Use Caution Extreme Caution Unsafe
22. Are fearful dogs safer to handle than
aggressive dogs?
NOT NECESSARILY!
Dogs that are fearful may bite to get you to
leave them alone just like aggressive dogs.
23. Think Like A Behaviorist
In the following slides you will be observing
photos of shelter dogs. Take 10-15 seconds to
describe to yourself what the dog is doing.
Remember to use objective rather than
subjective observations.
27. Ears back and
relaxed
(not pinned
back)
Mouth is relaxed
and holding toy
Eyes round and
soft (a little white
showing
indicating some
anxiety)
Is This Dog Safe to Handle?
28. Ears back and
relaxed
(not pinned
back)
Mouth is relaxed
and holding toy
Curved body, facing
towards person
Eyes round and
soft (a little white
showing
indicating some
anxiety)
Is This Dog Safe to Handle?
29. Ears back and
relaxed
(not pinned
back)
Mouth is relaxed
and holding toy
Curved body, facing
towards person
Eyes round and
soft (a little white
showing
indicating some
anxiety)
Is This Dog Safe to Handle?
30. Ears back and
relaxed
(not pinned
back)
Mouth is relaxed
and holding toy
Curved body, facing
towards person
This dog can readily be handled
but always keep an eye on the dog
as well as the environment
because behavior can change at a
moments’ notice. Anything from
an unexpected person or animal
coming around a corner to a
thunderstorm can drastically
change this animal’s behavior.
Eyes round and
soft (a little white
showing
indicating some
anxiety)
Is This Dog Safe to Handle?
36. Exposing
belly (not
always a
friendly
gesture)
Elbows bent, legs are
not stiff
Eyes are soft,
barely and
white showing
This dog can readily be handled but may
be a little timid or submissive. Go slow
and invite her to come to you before
initiating interaction.
Remember to always keep an eye on the
dog as well as the environment for any
changes that might affect her behavior.
Is This Dog Safe to Handle?
40. Ears forward
and erect
Eyes round, no white
showing
Mouth open, lips
long, tongue out,
with drool puddled
at end of tongue.
Is This Dog Safe to Handle?
41. Ears forward
and erect
Eyes round, no white
showing
Mouth open, lips
long, tongue out,
with drool puddled
at end of tongue.
Body facing you
(Think about what
she did before the
photo was taken…
is she starting to
square off toward
you or is her body
curved? Is she
loose and wiggly or
stiff? )
Is This Dog Safe to Handle?
42. Ears forward
and erect
Eyes round, no white
showing
Mouth open, lips
long, tongue out,
with drool puddled
at end of tongue.
Body facing you
(Think about what
she did before the
photo was taken…
is she starting to
square off toward
you or is her body
curved? Is she
loose and wiggly or
stiff? )
Is This Dog Safe to Handle?
43. Ears forward
and erect
Eyes round, no white
showing
Mouth open, lips
long, tongue out,
with drool puddled
at end of tongue.
This dog may be friendly, but
spend more time with her to be
sure. Check the environment,
her movements and how she
responds to you before opening
the kennel..
Body facing you
(Think about what
she did before the
photo was taken…
is she starting to
square off toward
you or is her body
curved? Is she
loose and wiggly or
stiff? )
Is This Dog Safe to Handle?
49. Eyes wide,
pupils
dilated,
whites
showing
Mouth open, lips
long, tongue out
but stiff
Ears pinned back
This dog appears to have some
stress or anxiety in his eyes, ears
and mouth. This animal would
benefit from some stress
relieving activities such as a
walk, off leash play, tug, fetch, a
Kong, rawhide or a quieter
place in the shelter.
Is This Dog Safe to Handle?
57. Cowered
Leaning
away
Ears back
Mouth closed tight
Some white
showing
This dog is cowering and trying to keep her distance. Her body is
off balance (not currently prepared for Fight or Flight) but may go
into balance as fear escalates.
Go slow with this dog, invite her to come to you but do not force
her to interact. Watch for this dog to have some sort of forward
movement (sniffing, moving head forward, leaning toward you).
If you do not see any forward movement, write a BVAL.
Is This Dog Safe to Handle?
61. Stress wrinkles
in between eyes
Tail tucked
tightly
Body very
stiff, rigid
Mouth shut
tight
Is This Dog Safe to Handle?
62. Stress wrinkles
in between eyes
Tail tucked
tightly
Body very
stiff, rigid
Mouth shut
tight
Is This Dog Safe to Handle?
63. Stress wrinkles
in between eyes
Tail tucked
tightly
Body very
stiff, rigid
Mouth shut
tight
This dog appears very fearful and concerned (stress wrinkles on her face). Fearful
dogs may shiver/shake, shed excessively or attempt to hide or escape.
Some of these behaviors have been referred to as stress signals (shaking, panting
heavily, lip licking, looking away, yawning when not tired, etc.). If you are dealing
with a fearful dog monitor their stress signals. If, at any time, the stress signals
stop but the animal remains fearful and begins to become very still and/or stare,
they may be preparing to defend themselves by behaving aggressively.
Is This Dog Safe to Handle?
69. Tending to
unrelated things
(scratching)
Lips long and tense
Tending to unrelated things (like this dog scratching when he
probably doesn’t have an itch), may indicate that a dog is
avoiding interacting.
Go slow and invite this dog to interact with you, get his buy-
in, before forcing an interaction. You might engage him in
play with one of his toys or toss him some treats to take his
mind off of being so nervous.
White of eyes showing,
keeping an eye on the
camera.
Is This Dog Safe to Handle?
70. When dealing with a fearful dog it is helpful to show them some
non-threatening behaviors of your own.
- Present your side
- Kneel down, make yourself smaller. Avoid bending toward the dog
when you kneel; turn sideways first then kneel.
- Avert your eyes, avoid staring at their face
- Speak softly and gently
- Offer treats (Some animals may not eat when they are afraid)
- Invite interaction with an object such as a rope toy or cat wand
- Pet under the chin or on the chest rather than going over the head
If a fearful dog feels threatened, or that they do not have any other
options, they may behave aggressively. Always provide fearful
animals with options, including an option to get away or create
distance in between themselves and whatever they are afraid of.
You are not required to work with animals that you are not
comfortable handling. If you cannot handle a particular animal,
contact your supervisor and write a BVAL.
78. Hackles raised
(piloerect)
Eyes wide,
white
showing
Lips short
and
puckered
Body stiff, rigid
Some of the behavior that is observed here
was also observed in the previous slides of
fearful dogs. Combined with piloerection
(raised hackles) and puckering of the lips
these behaviors lead us to believe that this
dog is likely to behave aggressively.
This dog feels that he has no other options
than to behave aggressively since he is unable
to escape because he is in a cage.
Staring
just past
you
Is This Dog Safe to Handle?
82. Side stare,
whites showingTail low,
below
spine
level,
not
moving
Hackles raised (piloerect)
Is This Dog Safe to Handle?
83. Side stare,
whites showingTail low,
below
spine
level,
not
moving
Hackles raised (piloerect)
Lips short and
puckered,
probably
barking.
Is This Dog Safe to Handle?
84. Side stare,
whites showingTail low,
below
spine
level,
not
moving
Hackles raised (piloerect)
Lips short and
puckered,
probably
barking.
Is This Dog Safe to Handle?
85. Side stare,
whites showing
Stiff, square body.
Standing his ground.
Tail low,
below
spine
level,
not
moving
Hackles raised (piloerect)
Lips short and
puckered,
probably
barking.
Is This Dog Safe to Handle?
86. Side stare,
whites showing
Stiff, square body.
Standing his ground.
Tail low,
below
spine
level,
not
moving
Hackles raised (piloerect)
Lips short and
puckered,
probably
barking.
Is This Dog Safe to Handle?
87. Side stare,
whites showing
Stiff, square body.
Standing his ground.
Tail low,
below
spine
level,
not
moving
Hackles raised (piloerect)
He is likely to behave aggressively if you were to move any
closer to him.
Lips short and
puckered,
probably
barking.
Is This Dog Safe to Handle?
94. Body off
Balance
Eyes soft
Body curved, side
presented
Submissive grins are often mistaken for aggression. By observing the
context of the behavior as well as the rest of the body language (animal is
usually approaching person with a very soft, wiggly body) we can
determine that this is a friendly animal.
Is This Dog Safe to Handle?
95. The Aggressive Dog
There is usually a chain of warning behaviors as a dog makes
the decision to bite. Sometimes the chain moves very fast, so
always pay attention:
• Freezes
• Lowers head
• Stares, without blinking, directly or just past you. Often looks at the
part of your body that he is likely to bite
• Raises Hackles
– Not a sign of aggression on its own, indicates arousal
• Growls, snarls.
– Many dogs have been punished for growling and therefore may
not always provide this warning. Never punish a dog for
growling! It is important information that tells us the dog is
overwhelmed.)
• Lunges
• Bites
96. Aggression
Aggressive dogs are usually fearful but may not
appear that way. They want to accomplish the
same thing as a fearful dog which is to create
distance between themselves and what they are
afraid of. Also, dogs may also become aggressive
when guarding food, toys, valuable chew items,
beds, etc., which is called “resource guarding”.
97. Dealing with an aggressive dog
When dealing with an aggressive dog you will use your body language
to indicate that you do not want escalate a confrontation.
• Avoid direct eye contact. Look down and away, glance out of the
corner of your eye, look at part’s of the dogs body but don’t stare at
his face
• Turn your body slowly to the side
• Do not turn your back or run away
• Do not panic
• Be watchful for momentary freezing. If the dog freezes he is more
likely to bite.
• Try to put a physical barrier in between you and the dog (trash can,
jacket, gate, etc.)
• Notify your supervisor immediately
• Write a BVAL
98. Introduce Yourself
Animals in the shelter have
little control over their
environment and lack of
control can lead to fear,
rowdy behavior or even
aggression. Each time you
interact with an animal you
have the choice of making
his experience better or
worse.
Allow the animal to have the
option on whether or not
they want to approach you.
99. Working with Shelter Dogs
Approach the dog using friendly body language similar
to how dogs behave so that he will understand.
• Gaze – don’t stare directly at the dog’s face. Look at him with your
“soft eyes”, blinking regularly
• Control your hands. Swinging your hands, a clipboard or even a
leash can frighten the dog.
Curve – approach in a curve
with a curved body.
Side – Keep your side to
the dog.
Slouch – curve your spine and
lower your head
100. Getting a dog out of a kennel
1. SODA – Stop and observe the dog for 10-15 seconds.
2. Enter the kennel and introduce yourself.
3. Leash the dog.
4. Get control of the dog by having a firm grip on the
leash and the excess leash gathered in your hand. The
leash should be short when routinely walking dog
past other dogs (more information about the “4 foot
rule” next).
5. Look both ways before exiting the kennel.
6. Be observant of your dog and the environment and be
prepared to respond to the needs of the dog.
101. 4 Foot Rule
In our shelter, dogs on leash are not allowed within 4 feet of another
dog. Make sure to always be aware of your environment and make any
adjustments to keep your dog at a safe distance from other dogs. This
includes gathering up excess leash and bringing the dog closer to you
when passing other dogs both on leash and in their kennels.
102. Leash Handling
Do not wrap the leash around your hand! This
can easily cause an injury if the dog pulls hard
on leash or suddenly bolts.
103. Carrying Dogs
Small Dogs
• Hold like a football with
one hand to support
chest and back end.
• Put other hand over on
the neck of the dog.
• If you need to remove a
hand to open a door, etc.
put your hand back on
the dog as soon as
possible.
You must use two hands when carrying dogs.
104. Carrying Dogs
Medium or Large Dogs
• Sometimes these
dogs must be carried
due to fear,
unfamiliarity with a
leash, illness or
injury.
You must use two hands when carrying dogs.
105. Carrying Dogs
Medium or Large Dogs
• One arm in front of chest.
• One arm behind back
legs under rump or under
abdomen.
• If you need another hand
to open a door, etc. get
help. You should not take
your hand off a
Medium/Large Dog.
You must use two hands when carrying dogs.
106. Escaped Dogs
• Make sure all doors to the area are closed.
• Alert everyone around by saying loudly “Loose Dog”
• If the dog is friendly and simply exploring approach the dog
and leash them up.
• If the dog is playful and thinks being loose is a game, try
enticing the dog to play chase by calling the dog and
running the opposite direction. When the dog comes
towards you, leash them up.
• If the dog is fearful and running away do not try to catch it
as it is running by! Work with a partner to cut her off at the
pass and slowly approach her and leash her up.
• If the dog is not wearing a leash, use the slip lead from your
pocket.
107. Dog Attacks
If an off-lead dog attacks you
- Shout loudly “Help Needed”
- Angle your body so that you are not facing the
dog directly, lower your head.
- Protect the part of your body the dog is looking
at by blocking with your crossed arms.
- If the dog continues to charge, hit his nose hard
with your fist. (Obviously this is an exception!)
- Back to the nearest exit.
- Do not turn your back to the dog or run.
108. Dog Attacks
If the dog you have on leash attacks you
- Use the leash to hold the
dog as far away from your
body as possible.
- Get the dog into the
nearest empty kennel as
soon as possible and close
the door.
- If you cannot get the dog
kenneled quickly, call for
help.
- The other person should
sound a blow horn or
whistle to distract the dog.
109. Dog Attacks
If you see a dog attacking someone
- Sound a blow horn or whistle to distract the
dog.
- Do not touch the dog
- Contact your supervisor
- If you were trained at the SPCA of Texas in
the use of a catch pole, slip it over the dog’s
head and move him to an empty kennel
- If you are not trained in the use of a catch
pole, gather any guests and exit the area
110. Dog Attacks
If two dogs area fighting
• Do not step between them or physically try
to break up the fight. This is an easy way to
be injured.
• After dogs have been separated, put them
into empty kennels and contact your
supervisor.
• Write a BVAL
• Place a “Use Caution” tag on the dog’s
kennel.
