The dairy goat handbook _ for backyard, homestead, and small farm ( PDFDrive ).pdf

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handbook
DAIRY GOAT
the
FOR BACKYARD, HOMESTEAD, AND SMALL FARM
ann starbard
(Text)
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Dedication:
To Pippy and Simon
First published in 2015 by Voyageur Press, an imprint of Quarto Publishing Group USA
Inc., 400 First Avenue North, Suite 400, Minneapolis, MN 55401 USA
© 2015 Quarto Publishing Group USA Inc.
Text © 2015 Ann Starbard
Photography © 2015 Ann Starbard
All photographs are from the author’s collection unless noted otherwise.
All rights reserved. With the exception of quoting brief passages for the purposes of review, no
part of this publication may be reproduced without prior written permission from the Publisher.
The information in this book is true and complete to the best of our knowledge. All
recommendations are made without any guarantee on the part of the author or Publisher, who
also disclaims any liability incurred in connection with the use of this data or specific details.
This publication has not been prepared, approved, or licensed by capricious goats.
We recognize, further, that some words, model names, and designations mentioned herein are
the property of the trademark holder. We use them for identification purposes only. This is not
an official publication.
Voyageur Press titles are also available at discounts in bulk quantity for industrial or sales-
promotional use. For details write to Special Sales Manager at Quarto Publishing Group USA
Inc., 400 First Avenue North, Suite 400, Minneapolis, MN 55401 USA.
To find out more about our books, visit us online at www.VoyageurPress.com.
ISBN: 978-0-7603-4731-7
Library of Congress Control Number: 2015932391
Acquisitions Editor: Elizabeth Noll
Project Manager: Jordan Wiklund
Design Manager: James Kegley
Cover Designer: Kim Winscher
Layout Designer: Kazuko Collins
On the front cover: A mother and her kid graze in the grass.
On the back cover: Newborn kid ready to play (top); chevre (bottom left); does enjoy the whey
from cheese-making (bottom right).
On the frontis: Goats mug for the camera.
On the title page: Some goats have an almost preternatural sense to understand your needs or
language. Talk to them often!
Printed in China
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Digital edition: 978-1-62788-691-8
Softcover edition: 978-0-76034-731-7

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Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Chapter 1
Getting Started. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Chapter 2
Breeds and Selection. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Chapter 3
Feeding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38
Chapter 4
Management. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56
Chapter 5
Business. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .74
Chapter 6
Breeding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .82
Chapter 7
Birthing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .92
Chapter 8
Kid Care . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .104
Chapter 9
Health Care . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .118
Chapter 10
Milk and Milking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .140
Chapter 11
Dairy Products. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .150
Chapter 12
The World of Dairy Goats. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .164
Appendix 1: Kits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178
Appendix 2: Resources . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180
Appendix 3: Dairy Animal Record Sheets . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182
Glossary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188
Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190
About the Author . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192
Contents
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A few dairy goats in the backyard can supply
a family with nutritious and flavorful milk to
drink and make into other foods. They can also
provide meat from the raising and slaughtering
of offspring, and manure for fertilizing gardens.
Goats will eat or browse overgrown and invasive
plants, cleaning up underutilized species while
feeding their bodies rich nutrients. At the same
time, with their smaller hoof print, agility,
and selective feeding habits, goats, in limited-
resource areas with sparse vegetation, can still
provide for us humans. Thus the dairy goat’s
G
oats are truly one of the most
adaptable and productive
domesticated animals on our planet.
They are found thriving in cold, mountainous
areas; on warm, tropical islands; and so many
places in between. They thrive on landscapes
and feed on plants that challenge other animals.
Domesticated thousands of years ago, goats
continue to find their way into the spotlight.
Goats are said to be one of the most popular
small farm animals in the United States today.
The reasons are many.
Introduction
Dairy goat eating mineral-rich nettles (Urtica dioica).
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Goats have many endearing qualities.
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The Dairy Goat Handbook will help you
learn about dairy goats and how to add their
lively spirits, nutritional food products, and
resourcefulness to your life.
Let’s look at the advantages of dairy goats.
First and foremost, they are adaptable and
hardy animals. They thrive and reproduce with
simple but attentive care. Their smaller size
at maturity makes goats easier to handle than
other food-producing animals, and they are
generally gentle. Their space and feeding needs
are minimal. Overall, goats cost less money to
acquire and keep.
They eat a variety of plant material: grasses,
weeds, leaves, small browse, trees, and bushes.
They are able to make use of less expensive
feeds, which surprisingly are often higher in
mineral content than conventional feeds. Goats
are selective feeders, making them good brush-
clearing animals. They eat a little here and a
little there, acquiring a variety of plants to meet
their dietary needs.
The milk they produce is nutritious and
flavorful. A single goat of good breeding can
easily produce enough milk for a family to
drink and use for making dairy products such
as cheese and kefir. Goat milk is more easily
digested and does not produce as many allergic
reactions as cow milk. Production and body
type can be improved in a relatively short
period of time.
efficient and adaptable nature is perhaps part of
a local answer for the environmental, economic,
and food safety challenges we face today.
Of course, some feel goats have a downside:
that they “question authority.” Many are familiar
with the biblical references to sheep following on
the right, while goats swing and jump to the left,
listening to their own tune. This unpredictable
and devilish nature of goats is well expressed
in history, literature, and even pop culture.
The frolicking forest god of Greek mythology,
Pan, is a classic goat-like figure, while a favorite
2013 Doritos commercial features a manically
munching goat. Story lines change, yet the impish
goat behavior continues to trend. Why?
Goats have a curiosity that is often
misunderstood. Take some time to be
with goats and you will soon discover their
endearing characteristics. Innocently, they
create a unique and lasting bond. They are
fun companions despite their independent
spirit. Bring goats into your life and you will
quickly learn many lessons both about goats
and yourself. In addition to honing your basic
animal-raising abilities, goats will challenge
your wit, patience, and fence-building skills.
You will develop GOAT-titude! GOAT-titude
is the mental state that is necessary to thrive
with the inquisitive, adventurous, adaptable,
impish, intelligent, laughable, and energetic
behavior of goats.
Raising dairy goats is rewarding, challenging, and fun.
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9
Introduction
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Lastly, goats are good family animals. They
teach responsibility and decision making.
Everyone learns that an animal getting good
food and proper care will thrive and make
delicious, healthy food for the family to eat.
Children learn the importance of independent
yet cooperative work, knowing they play an
important role in taking care of a live, productive
animal. The entire family takes part in creating a
successful and enjoyable enterprise.
Life is certainly about balance, so let’s look at
some of the disadvantages of dairy goats.
They are a commitment. Generally, a goat
needs to be milked twice every day for 10-plus
months of the year. The life expectancy of a goat
is ten to fifteen years.
Goats need to be properly managed to
avoid overgrazing and denuding plant growth.
Without good fences or proper attention,
roaming goats can cause damage to gardens,
yard plants, and even cars! Goats can be spoiled
and develop bad attitudes, which may lead
to behavioral problems. Poor or insufficient
feeding and care can also cause difficulties.
Dairy goats normally reproduce every year,
leading to overpopulation if offspring are not
sold. Goat-savvy veterinarians and medications
approved for milking goats can be difficult to
find. Quite frankly, there will be bad days and
frustrating moments. But these negatives can
easily be minimized with knowledge, work,
and planning.
This book is designed to teach both
beginner and advanced goat keepers about
dairy goats. There is basic information for
getting started and raising goats, with advanced
sections and more details on specific subjects,
such as management, breeding, health care,
and milk production. Each chapter could easily
be its own book. I highly recommend that
everyone find an animal mentor—someone
raising goats—as experience is generally the
best teacher. Find an agricultural club in your
area or at least an Internet forum to help answer
detailed questions and discuss situations. Keep
a barn journal. Develop and strengthen your
common sense. Goats require shelter, food,
companionship, and some nurturing—basically
the needs we all share. Provide this care, pay
attention to your animals’ needs, and you will
receive plenty of benefits from your dairy goats.
Yes, there is daily work and a commitment
to raising dairy goats. This work, though, is
wonderfully rewarding, positively challenging,
and just plain fun! Be curious, observe, act, and
enjoy—in other words, add GOAT-titude to
your life!
Develop your GOAT-titude!
Danielle Mulcahy
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Getting Started
realities of your ambition while you explore
the possibilities. Be considerate of people’s
time, and offer to compensate them for their
expertise. Showing respect and appreciation for
an experienced farmer’s time and knowledge
goes a long way toward creating an invaluable
long-term relationship.
Considerations
Set a goal. Setting a goal isn’t for everyone.
That’s fine. Simply having a couple of goats
to be companions, provide milk, or browse
a vegetated area is a good way to begin. FYI:
These are all goals, whether you like the word
or not. Goals are fluid, moving and living.
Setting and achieving goals with your goats
are a good way to teach children the merits of
balancing work and accomplishment with fun
W
ell begun is half done.” How often
have we heard this? The decision to
get dairy goats or advance in your
goat keeping requires some discussion and
thought. Where do you begin? Approach the
process using the following considerations,
adding components unique to your situation.
Be realistic and practical. Everyone who will
join in the animal care should be involved
in the decision making. Please be honest,
communicate, and don’t make assumptions.
Goats should not suffer due to our follies. Be
clear, and understand your decision. Enthusiasm
can be contagious—share the workload and
commitment, and everyone will benefit.
Visit goat farms, talk with people keeping
goats, attend agricultural fairs and goat shows,
and find a goat mentor. Learn about the
“
Find a goat mentor
who will teach you
the realities of
your ambition.
Chapter 1
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mentor or veterinarian, and make informed
decisions. Include a cushion for your budget
expenses, as construction or feed costs can rise
when you’re midstream. We’ll look more at the
real numbers in Chapter 5, Business.
Make a commitment. Argh! That scary
word! It’s okay. That’s why you are reading this
book. As with most things we fear, learning
about and sharing the task is the key to finding
the joy and pleasure of the commitment to dairy
goats. The benefits outweigh the costs in so
many ways. Animal care is calming and almost
therapeutic when you make the commitment
of time and energy. Milking brings a deliberate
slowdown to the day, a time to be with your
goats and family/friends that are sharing the
work. Plus you will have delicious, nutritious
milk to drink and use to make other dairy
products. Have control of the situation with
a proper goat house, plan for feed and water,
functioning and practical fences, and “organized
labor” to make the commitment interesting and
pleasurable to helpers of all ages.
Determine your available space. This
plays a big role in determining your goals. There
are many ways to keep dairy goats on minimal
acreage. Ideally, goats like to move and forage,
but they can thrive in a small pasture system
where the majority of their feed is brought
to them. Determine how to best utilize your
available space to keep healthy dairy goats and
achieve your goals. Keep in mind that goats
generate manure. Have space for a compost
area, find friends to take the manure, or use this
rich resource for income generation.
Determine whether goats fit into your
current family of animals. Goats are
good companion animals, but every animal has
its individual personality and needs. Decide
if your current animals have the attitudes
to accept goats into their space. There are
advantages and disadvantages to mixing farm
animals. We’ll look at interspecies mixing in
Chapter 4, Management.
and play. Strategize with all family members
on setting your goat goal(s). Keep in mind you
need to have at least two goats, as a goat is a
social animal that needs a companion. Write
your goals on a white/chalkboard in the goat
house. Come up with new goals and challenges,
making sure they are practical and within your
resources. Most importantly, be realistic and
have fun! We’ll look more specifically at getting
animals to meet your goals in Chapter 2, Breeds
and Selection.
Determine your available time. Caring
for animals takes time. Mature dairy goats
require milking. Kids can nurse off their moms
for a bit of time, but eventually you will have
to milk. Milking is generally done twice a day,
about every 12 hours. You can cut down to
once a day with a kid nursing part time, or with
lighter milk production in late lactation. In
addition to milking, you’ll need time to acquire
and distribute feed; set, move, and fix fences;
clean and bed the pen; and perform routine
health maintenance, such as hoof trimming,
parasite monitoring, and vaccinations. Will
you choose to make cheese, soap, yogurt, and
other products from the milk? You’ll need to
figure these jobs into your day. Start with the
goat raising and milking. Develop a routine.
Phase in additional tasks as you become
efficient and acclimated to your animals.
Please just be aware that you will need to make
a time commitment with dairy goats; don’t
shortchange the animals, yourself and family/
friends, or the end product: the milk. Dairy
goats are very agreeable; work with others to
share the workload.
Determine your financial means. Getting
started in dairy goats at any level generally
requires financial input. Yes, there are many
ways to save money, including doing things
yourself and bartering, but you will need to
acquire healthy animals, secure feed and water,
build an adequate shelter, and fence off an
exercise or pasture area. Generally the old adage
“you get what you pay for” does apply here.
Research your options, consult with your goat
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If you are a beginner, spend time
with goats to make sure you don’t
have allergies to goat dander, hay,
and other allergens inherent in a
goat environment.
Okay, you have your goal; now what?
Decide on housing, pen layout, feed sources,
fencing, and lastly, where you will acquire
your goats. You can work on these elements
simultaneously. Be prepared by having a pen,
proper fence, feed, and supplies ready before
you bring goats home.
Housing
Goats need shelter from the elements. The
most critical needs for goat housing are good
ventilation and protection from wetness and
drafts. Some farm animals, such as cattle, sheep,
and horses, fair okay standing in the rain and
snow. Dairy goats, simply lacking the insulating
and water shedding abilities of other animals,
do not. They bolt for shelter with the first drop
of rain. Perhaps they are really wicked witches
from the west and will melt if they get wet!
Determine who has DIY skills. Are
you or someone in your circle talented at
carpentry, building, or fixing things? If not,
find someone you can hire to do this type
of work. There are several tried-and-true
“goat proof” structures, but goats challenge
even the best of carpenters. Frustration can
rise at their cleverness and tenacity. These
critters are just so curious and inquisitive.
Knowing how to add another board or mend
a fence is important. Have some basic tools
and knowledge to at least temporarily fix
something until a trained carpenter can arrive.
After looking at these considerations,
go back to your goals and see if they are
realistic and attainable. Can you strive to meet
the challenges? If not, reassess your goal,
knowing your available resources. You may
have to break the goal into steps, keeping the
big picture in mind. I believe in giving your
absolute best to Plan A. This is the way we
grow, learn, and achieve. Yes, that power of a
positive attitude. There is, though, merit to
having a Plan B lurking in the background. Be
flexible. Opportunities and road blocks pop up
when we least expect them. Go back to these
considerations and reform goals as needed.
A three-sided
structure is adequate
in warmer climates.
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Getting Started
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Newborn and young goat kids are particularly
sensitive to drafts.
Follow your considerations from above
when planning your goat house, remembering
that you will be milking and tending your dairy
goats at least twice a day. Build a goat house
that is functional, pleasant, and welcoming.
Size your building for the maximum number
of animals in your plan, with 16 square feet per
animal as a minimum. Include ample windows
for sunlight and airflow.
Goat shelters can be quite simple for a few
goats in your backyard. A three-sided building
in warmer climates is adequate.
During a cold winter or bad weather, more
protection, such as a door or a securely hung
heavy blanket, is needed to keep cold wind
and snow from chilling the animals. Plan an
overhang on one side to place a folding milk
stand if you are tight on space. Feed can be
stored in a garage or other outbuilding. Use
tightly covered containers to keep unwanted
critters out. You may fancy a finer home for
your caprines and have the skills and/or
finances to achieve this. Regardless, build a
structure that is healthy for your animals and
pleasing to you.
Dairy goats kept in suburban settings are
becoming more popular. Learn the zoning
regulations in your area. Goats can make good
neighbors, with proper facilities and management.
Keep an appropriate number of animals, build
a goat house that blends into the established
surroundings, control pests, and care for the goats
(both milking and feeding) in a timely manner
to minimize noise. Close neighbors and breeding
bucks don’t usually mix well, so plan to take your
goats elsewhere for breeding.
Greenhouse barns cost less initially to build
than traditional wooden frame structures.
These buildings retain heat in the winter,
making a good area for birthing and growing
kids. Proper airflow and ventilation are
important, especially in the warmer seasons.
Plans for larger herds will need to consider
inclusive areas for feed storage and feed
trough/racks, easy access to water, smaller
pens or jugs for kidding and health care, ease
Some prefer a fancier goat house.
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This open pen in a warm climate has predator protection.
This suburban goat house blends into a small space.
of cleaning and bedding storage,
flexible pens to house younger goats
as they grow, a separate area for
milking, and a possible creamery or
production area.
Again, look at your goals,
considerations, and future plans.
Commercial licensed facilities will
have to meet federal, state, and
local guidelines and regulations,
which are updated and changed
frequently. Check with local health
and agricultural officials to learn
about the current requirements
for your area. Consult before you
construct so you don’t waste time
and money replacing or rebuilding
if you plan to sell your goat dairy
products commercially.
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Provide benches and areas for the goats to
climb and rest. Be creative, making sure to build
sound and secure structures. Benches are ideal
as young goats can hide underneath while the
adults lie or stand on them.
Hay feeders and watering areas need to be
at an accessible height. This varies for different
breeds. Keyhole and slant-board feeders
minimize hay loss. Goats like to stand on a
ledge to reach their feed. Automatic waterers
have an initial expense, but I think they are
priceless if you are keeping ten or more animals.
Carrying water or thawing frozen buckets gets
old really fast, especially as the goat keeper ages.
Look for automatic waterers that have a heating
element option if you live in colder regions.
You will not regret your decision to spend extra
money on waterers!
Goats need salt and minerals. There are
several designs available for having either free
choice or block salt and minerals accessible
to your goats. Salt and minerals need to be
sheltered from precipitation. As with feeders
and waterers, keep salt and minerals at a proper
height for your goats. Be sure to put small salt
bricks in your kid and buck pens.
Pen Layout
Create an easy flow for animal movement
with a good pen design. Dairy goats are most
productive and healthy when they are kept
calm and moved with ease. Author Temple
Grandin has brought animal behavior to the
forefront with clever ideas to ease the stress of
animals. In her book, Animals Make Us Human,
she states, “Everyone that is responsible for
animals . . . needs a set of simple, reliable
guidelines for creating good mental welfare that
can be applied to any animal in any situation,
and the best guidelines we have are the core
emotion systems in the brain. The rule is
simple: Don’t stimulate rage, fear, and panic
if you can help it, and do stimulate seeking
and also play. Provide environments that will
keep the animal occupied and prevent the
development of stereotypes.”
Keep these thoughts in mind as you design
your pen, alleviating animal stress as you move
the goats for milking and feeding. Create areas
for exercise and positive stimulation. Develop a
pattern or routine for daily chores. Dairy goats
who feel safe, secure, and serene will produce
the best milk. You want happy goats!
The open housing area here has keyhole feeders on the pen perimeter.
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Gates can be used to temporarily create a
smaller pen, such as a group area for before or
after milking or when separating the herd to
hoof trim, vaccinate, or check for parasites.
The number of mature does you have
determines the layout of the milking area. One
stand for every four to six milking goats is a
good ratio. Will you be hand milking or using a
machine? Running and hot water are excellent
considerations for cleaning milking stations
and equipment. Legal sale of fluid milk and
processed dairy products require strict and
detailed setup of milking areas. Consult with
local, state, and, if necessary, federal officials in
the initial stages of planning a licensed milking
facility. Please see the resource page (180) for
more information.
Climb over gates at the hinges
to decrease the tendency of
gates to sag.
Simple wooden benches are a beneficial addition to a goat house. Danielle Mulcahy
This small pen is appropriate for dwarf breeds.
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Feed Storage
Feeding will most likely be your largest daily
expense, especially if you have limited space
for goat browsing. Buying in bulk or partnering
with other animal keepers will help reduce
your bottom line, as long as there is local
availability and you have room for feed storage.
Consider how you can store feed so you can
take advantage of lower prices and obtaining the
highest quality possible. Quality feeds will make
the difference between good milk production,
in terms of both quantity and quality. Finding
good quality feeds for the best price can be a
challenge. Research cheaper alternative, locally
available feeds, and how you can store these
for use during the non-growing season. If
you are simply housing a few goats in a small
shelter, feed can be stored in a garage or other
outbuilding. Use tightly covered containers to
keep unwanted critters out of grain and seeds.
Be sure to rotate feedstuffs and discard any
grain or hay that becomes contaminated, moldy,
or wet. We’ll discuss actual feedstuffs and
nutrition in Chapter 3, Feeding.
A greenhouse barn is warm in the winter, and the open pen makes for easy feeding with round hay bales.
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Keep mineral feeders properly adjusted for the height of your goats.
An automatic waterer is invaluable for larger herds.
The right goat pen depends upon the size of your herd, the breed of the goats, and any particular features you want to include. As
long as the goats can’t get out, though, it’ll probably be a success! Shutterstock
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Gates ease handling of animals and break a larger pen into smaller areas.
s.
Hanging a salt block provides nutritional supplement and amusement.
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Fencing
Many goat keepers consider fencing the most
difficult part of keeping goats, well, in! The
options for fencing are much better today
than in the past. Technology and advances in
fencing materials offer cost-effective options
that, when correctly installed and used, work
very well to keep goats in their proper place.
I train our young goat kids to an electric net
fence when they are 2 months old. Read more
about this in Chapter 8, Kid Care. The key here
is training the goats when they are young. Our
herd of seventy adult goats lives behind two
strands of simple electric fence, which they
rarely challenge.
Ill-behaved (a.k.a. spoiled) goats that were
allowed or encouraged to jump fences when
younger will simply not respect any fence.
Proper discipline and training at the earliest
age makes a huge difference. Consider the
advantages and disadvantages of various fences.
Visit farms and fence dealers to see what
options may work for your situation. Keep
in mind that all fences need to be properly
Double-stranded electric fence that is semi-movable works well to contain trained goats.
This is a grain bin for bulk delivery of grain.
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Getting Started
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installed and maintained. Weeds growing on
electric fences diminish the available shocking
voltage, as rain and morning dew will steal
current flow.
Electric fences, including the net fences, do
not work as well in very dry climates. In this
case, soil moisture is insufficient to complete
the current flow for an animal to get shocked.
Most electric fences need a minimum of 3,000
volts. Check with the manufacturer for specific
details. Here are some fence choices that work
well with goats.
Permanent: High tensile. Expensive,
permanent; can be used as a perimeter fence.
Semi-permanent: Cattle panels attached to
T-posts. Secure cattle panels to T-posts placed
every 8 feet. This fencing is great for younger
kids. Posts are on the outside of the fence. A
single line of electric fence can be strung at 8 to
18 inches off the ground and offset 4 to 6 inches.
This hot wire works particularly well with older
goats that like to rub or “climb” the fence. Detail of fixed-knot fencing.
Fixed-knot, high-tensile fencing with top electric wire is a
permanent solution.
Electric fences need to be properly maintained and cleared
of plants.
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Semi-movable: Two strands of electric wire
attached to T-posts and fiberglass poles. Set up
as an exercise area or perimeter fence. The fence
will need to be mowed and maintained. See
photo on page 20.
Movable: Net fences. These have to be moved
frequently and require good maintenance of the
fence and electrical system. Be aware that goats
can get stuck in them, panic, and be injured,
especially if they are not trained to this type
of fence.
Solar chargers can be used to electrify fences
away from a building. Research the appropriate
size charger and electrical output necessary for
the fence you are installing. Be sure to test the
attached fence for adequate voltage.
Cattle panels attached
to T-posts make
a sturdy fence,
particularly for
younger animals.
Electric wire fencing
is an effective way to
keep your goats
on your property.
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Getting Started
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Will you select registered purebred goats?
Can mixed breeding fit your needs? Will you
buy locally, or do you want animals from
another area? The next chapter discusses dairy
goat breeds and how to select animals.
The 5 Ps: Prior Planning Prevents
Poor Performance
Below: Solar fence
chargers are useful for
fencing browse areas
that are a distance
from line electricity.
Left: A movable fence,
such as this net fence,
is useful for making
smaller, rotational
browse/pasture areas.
Finally, GettingYour GOATS!
You have put a lot of energy and time into
making the decision to get goats with setting
a goal, planning their care, housing, pen
setup, feed, and fencing. Now comes the fun
part: getting your goats! Three criteria should
be considered:
1. Buy animals that meet your goal.
2. Obtain healthy, strong goats from a
reputable person.
3. Pay what you can afford.
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these quirky, short-eared goats to our herd and
quickly fell in love with them.
The following short descriptions and
photographs will give you some basic
information on the breeds.
ALPINE
This dairy breed is medium to large size, with
mature does weighing at least 135 pounds
T
here are currently eight primary dairy
goat breeds in the United States: Alpine,
LaMancha, Nigerian Dwarf, Nubian,
Oberhasli, Saanen, Sable, and Toggenburg.
Everyone has a favorite breed for a variety of
reasons—personality, appearance, thriftiness,
milk qualities, size, or local availability. I invite
you to spend some time with each of the breeds
if you can. Talk with goat owners and do your
own research, even
if you are looking for
crossbred animals.
Do characteristics of
a certain breed “talk”
to you? Keep an open
mind and consider
all the possibilities.
As with your goals,
be flexible.
You may decide
you like the regal look
of Oberhaslis, and
then years later, find a
Nubian that you just
connect with. Seize the
opportunities as they
come. I started with
Saanens and Alpines
and was quite happy
with these breeds.
A local woman was
moving and had to find
a home for her eight
LaManchas. I added
Breeds and
Selection
Alpines can be attentive and even bossy in their moods and wants—watch them carefully!
Chapter 2
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Sundgau (sundgow) – Black with white
markings on face, underbelly, or legs.
Pied - Spotted or mottled.
Chamoisee (shamwahzay) – Brown or bay
body with characteristic black markings, such as
back stripe, feet, legs, and tail. Spelling for male
is chamois.
Two-Tone Chamoisee – Light (white, tan,
off-white) front quarters with brown or gray
hindquarters.
Broken – Any variation in the above patterns
stippled with white areas is described as a
broken, such as a broken chamoisee.
LAMANCHA
This breed is known for its short, or basically
nonexistent, external ear. LaManchas were
developed in the western United States in the
1920s by crossing short-eared Spanish bloodlines
with various dairy breeds to produce a good
and measuring a minimum of 32 inches at
the top of shoulders (withers). Alpines are an
independent breed, gracefully aggressive and
passively attentive. They produce an average of
2,400 pounds of milk a year with a 3.5 percent
milk fat and 2.9 percent protein. They have
erect ears, short to medium hair, and range in
many color combinations.
Alpine Color Descriptions
Cou Blanc (coo blanc) – French for “white
neck.” White front quarters and black
hindquarters; black or gray markings on
the head.
Cou Clair (coo clair) – French for “clear neck.”
Front quarters are tan or off-white with
black hindquarter.
Cou Noir (coo nwah) – French for
“black neck.” Black front quarters with
white hindquarter.
LaManchas make up for in attitude what they lack in, well, ears. They are adaptable, friendly, and resourceful dairy producers.
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dairy goat. The result, in addition to productivity,
is an adaptable, friendly, and resourceful goat.
The LaMancha ear can be described as “Gopher”
or “Elf.” A gopher ear is about 1 inch in length
with little or no cartilage, and the only acceptable
form of ear for a registered buck. The elf ear
is about 2 inches in length and can have some
cartilage shaping the ear. This breed has short
to medium fine hair, with all and any colors
and combinations. They average 120 pounds
for a mature doe with a height at the top of the
shoulder of 28 to 30 inches. LaManchas are
a sturdy breed, with admirable curiosity and
personality. The LaManchas in our herd love to
be out in the fields browsing. They often lead the
Alpines and Saanens into the pasture and stay
out eating long after the others have lain down
under a shade tree. Milk production averages
2,200 pounds annually with a 3.7 percent milk
fat and 3.1 percent protein.
NIGERIAN DWARF
This smaller breed is gaining in popularity
due to its ease of handling, adaptability, and
rich milk. The ideal weight of a mature doe is
about 75 pounds, and the average height is 17
to 19 inches. Nigerian Dwarfs have bodies with
balanced proportion, similar to the larger dairy
breeds. They have upright ears and short to
medium hair. The coat colors vary with all and
any color combination and patterns, with the
main colors being black, chocolate, and gold.
They are prolific breeders, oftentimes giving
birth to three or four kids. The milk quantity
averages 600 pounds a year, with an average
milk fat of 6.3 percent and protein of 4.3 percent
This breed is ideal for goat keepers of all ages,
and especially for homestead keepers making
dairy products from the milk. Nigerian Dwarfs
mix well with other goats and adapt well to
many settings, including urban environments.
Nigerian Dwarf goats are small, but their popularity is growing due to their feisty and fun-loving natures, and the fine, sweet milk
they produce. Ellen Gould
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Breeds and Selection
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NUBIAN
Nubians are currently the most popular dairy
goat breed in the United States. The breed has
a long, interesting history. The Anglo-Nubian is
of British breeding, crossing Old English goats
with lop-eared breeds from India and North
and East Africa. The result is this medium- to
large-framed goat with characteristic long,
pendulous ears and a convex Roman nose. The
mature doe should weigh at least 135 pounds
and stand an average of 30 to 32 inches at the
withers. They are a hardy and proud breed, with
strong personalities. They can also be quite
vocal. The hair coat is short and of any or all
colors, solid and patterned. The richness of the
Nubian milk is one reason for the popularity
of this breed, especially for making cheese and
milk products. Nubian milk averages 4.5 percent
milk fat and 3.7 percent protein with an annual
production of 1,980 pounds.
OBERHASLI
Oberhasli goats are a medium size, averaging
130 pounds and standing 28 to 30 inches at
the withers for a mature doe. They have erect
ears and a short to medium hair coat. Oberhasli
goats have a striking body color: solid bay
(deepest red is most desired) with black
markings on their face, back, dorsal stripe,
belly, udder, lower legs, and tail. Females may
be black, but bucks must be the traditional
bay color. Oberhaslis, as a breed, are vigorous
and lively, yet cooperative. They mix well with
other breeds. They average 2,200 pounds in
milk production, with 3.6 percent milk fat and
2.9 percent protein.
Nubians produce rich milk and have strong personalities. They are the most popular dairy breed in the United States.
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Pale and regal, Saanens may often dominate a herd with their stubborn, energetic personalities.
Oberhaslis make fine companions to other domestic goat breeds. Tricia Smith
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TOGGENBURG
Purported to be the oldest-known dairy breed
of goats, this breed originated in the eastern
Swiss valley, Toggenburg. These goats are calm
and friendly, with warm, kind eyes. They are a
strong, healthy breed of medium size, with erect
ears. Mature does weigh at least 120 pounds and
are 28 to 30 inches at the withers. The coat of
brown (fawn to dark chocolate) is highlighted
with characteristic white markings on the
face, ears, muzzle, legs, and tail. Toggenburgs
historically have medium to long hair, though
shorter hair is being favored recently. They
average 2,260 pounds of milk, with 3.2 percent
milk fat and 2.7 percent protein.
There are interesting stories to go with each
of the breeds and how they became what they
are today. Each breed has a national club whose
information is given in the resource section of
this book (page 180).
Once you’re ready to start looking for
animals, read through the following guidelines.
These pointers will help you through the
process. Starting with strong, healthy animals
is important. You have put time into making
decisions and goals, setting up a goat house,
SAANEN
Saanens are a productive dairy goat with a
medium to large frame. The mature doe weighs
around 150 pounds and stands 32 to 34 inches
at the top of the shoulders. They have erect ears
and distinctly graceful beards, particularly as
they age. Saanens are solid white to cream with
occasional black spots on the nose, ears, and
udder. They are a vigorous, strong-willed breed,
often dominating the herd. This is especially
seen at the hay rack. The annual production
average for Saanens is 2,600 pounds of milk with
3.3 percent milk fat and 2.8 percent protein.
SABLE
The Sable breed is a variant of the Saanens,
being recently (2005) recognized by the
American Dairy Goat Association (ADGA).
Sables are basically Saanens with a gene variant
for coat color. “The Sable coat and markings
may vary from solid tan to darker colors,
patterns and combinations,” according to Sable
Breed standards. The minimum weight is 135
pounds and height is 30 to 32 inches for a
mature doe. The production data is similar to
that of Saanens.
Like their Swiss
forefathers, Toggenburgs
are calm and
friendly—neither overly
dominant, nor unusually
submissive. You might
call them the neutral
citizens of the herd!
Jay Iversen
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animals from an auction to start a dairy herd as
there are many potential problems from buying
from an unknown source. Auction buying has a
purpose; starting or increasing a dairy goat herd
isn’t one of them.
Look at your goals and considerations, decide
the breed or crossbreeds that you want to raise,
think about the milk production and qualities
you want, and go have fun! Visual selection of
dairy goats requires keen observation, in-depth
questions, and some experience. Beginner goat
owners may ask an experienced person to come
with them to look at animals. Learn about ideal
dairy character by attending local fairs and
observing the dairy goat and cow shows. Listen
to the judge’s reasoning for placing animals in
the ring. Ask questions once the animals are
out of the show ring and the handler is finished
showing for the day. Most animal owners are
interested in sharing knowledge of their animals,
particularly if they have animals or offspring for
sale. Be polite, considerate, and understand the
show schedule.
and teaming up with family and friends to help
share the work and milk! Look at the Goals
for Selecting Dairy Goats Chart. Write in your
own key points, and take this with you when
looking at animals. Start with what you can
afford. Improving your herd is part of the fun of
keeping dairy goats.
WHERE TO LOOK
First, local fairs will often have a goat show or
at least goats on display. Second, contact local
organizations such as 4-H, Grange, or County
Extension. Third, attend area farmers markets.
Many commercial goat farmers attend local
markets to sell dairy products. Also, check
postings at local agricultural stores or on the
Internet for local goat forums. Warning: Be
extra careful when buying off an Internet list.
While there are many fine, healthy animals
being sold online, be aware that many unhealthy
animals are sold also. Do your homework and
politely walk away if you question the animals
or the seller. I do not recommend buying
Annual Average Milk (pounds) Milk Fat (%) Protein (%)
Alpine 2,500 3.4 2.9
LaMancha 2,200 3.7 3.1
Nigerian Dwarf 600 6.3 4.3
Nubian 1,980 4.5 3.7
Oberhasli 2,200 3.6 2.9
Saanen 2,600 3.3 2.8
Sable 2,200 3.5 2.8
Toggenburg 2,260 3.2 2.7
Breed Average Production
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Goal Animal Type¹ $$ Where to Look² Desired Age Notes³
Homestead use PB, CB High–Low B, CF, H Any Good personality
Expand commercially PB, CB High–Medium B, CF
Any, 2- to 3-year-old
is preferred
Fit into larger
herd
Show, sell breeding
stock
PB High B, CF
Any, 1- to 3-month-
old is preferred
Excellent
genetics, look at
family lines
Family fun goat PB, CB Medium–Low CF, H Any Easy personality
Improve herd PB High–Medium B, CF Any
Sound genetics,
look at family
lines Socially
adjusted
Companion animal PB, CB Medium–Low CF, H Any personality
YOUR GOAL:
PB- Purebred, CB- Crossbred, B- Breeders, CF- Commercial Farm,
H- Hobbyist. Always buy a healthy sound animal.
Learn the correct names of your
goats’ bodies to share information
with veterinarians and goat farmers.
Courtesy Barbara Carter
face
chine loin
muzzle
rump
rib
heel
knee
toe
point of shoulder
point of elbow
heart girth
milk vein
fore
udder
rear udder
hook (hipbone)
pinbone
hock
dewclaw
teats
pastern
flank
barrel
withers
jaws
Parts of a goat's body
Goals for Selecting Dairy Goats
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seems to be appearing on lists of frequently
asked questions about goats.
3. Knees and Hocks The goat knee is similar
to our wrist, the hock to our heel. These
joints are comprised of many small bones
puzzled together. The leg bones from these
points to the feet are two metacarpal bones
(front) and two metatarsal bones (rear)
fused together. The foot structure is similar
to bones of the third and fourth digits of the
human hand/foot.
4. Withers This is the ridge on the back
between the shoulder blades and used for
height measurements. This is sometimes
referred to as top of the shoulders.
5. Heart Girth This is the measurement
around the fore-barrel taken right behind
the front legs and the shoulders. This
measurement is used to estimate the
goat’s weight.
6. Rumen Goats are ruminants, meaning
they have a multi-chambered gastric
(stomach) system. The rumen is the first
chamber that feed enters after chewing and
swallowing. The rumen is basically a big
fermentation vat, with enzyme-producing
microorganisms. The enzymes break down
plant fibers, making nutrients available
to the goat’s digestive system. The rumen
begins functioning when goats are around
3 weeks of age.
7. Hooks This is the term used for the hip
bones, which are located on either side at the
end of the rack of vertebrae.
8. Pin Bones These are located on either side
of the tail head.
9. Rump The pelvic region between the hooks
and pin bones.
10.Udder This is the goat’s milk-producing
gland, and it is split in half. Each half is a
separate chamber, so milk does not flow
from one to the other. Milk is secreted
through an intricate cellular system,
collecting in a milk cistern at the base of
each half. Milk is retained in these cisterns
through a series of tight muscular
rings. The cistern is connected to a teat at
the bottom of the udder, through which the
milk is removed.
PREPARING TO VIEW GOATS
Wear clean clothes and clean shoes/boots when
traveling to look at animals. The owner may
ask you to wear plastic boots over your shoes
to stop the spread of diseases. These boots can
be cheaply purchased online or at agricultural
stores. Buy a box and keep the boots with you to
wear on farm visits.
Let’s learn some simple goat anatomy.
Goat Anatomy
1. Teeth Goats have a total of thirty-two teeth:
eight incisors on the lower jaw only, twelve
premolars, and twelve molars (six of each on
the upper and lower jaws). The upper front
jaw has a dental pad (firm soft tissue) that
helps the incisors to tear forage. The young
incisors of goat kids are replaced by adult
incisors as the animal ages. You can use the
teeth to roughly age a goat until it is four
years old. The molars are used to grind the
feed during cud chewing. The teeth of older
goats may develop sharp points that can cause
problems and may need to be filed down.
2. Wattles Wattles are small, vestigial skin
appendages, generally found on the neck.
Vestigial means they have lost their function
through the course of evolution. Some
believe wattles were part of the salivary gland
system; others say they evolved from fish gill
slits. Regardless, their only current function
Older goats may require their teeth to be filed down if they
become too sharp. Shutterstock
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temporary roughness. If the general appearance
is satisfactory, begin assessing more detailed
features.
Starting with the face, look for proper
placement of the eyes and jaws. Eyes should
be evenly located on the face and alert. Look
for under- or overshot jaws. Jaw irregularities
can cause feeding problems as the animal
ages. Carefully examine lips and nasal areas
for symptoms of active soremouth infection.
Soremouth is a highly contagious skin disease
caused by a virus.
Spread the lips and check the teeth for
unusual wear or broken or missing teeth.
Observe any lumps or growths in the jaw,
ear, and neck area. Goats can have benign
granulomas or cysts in these areas, but be aware
that caseous lymphadentitis (CL) swellings
are often found in these same areas. Avoid
buying animals with CL, which is a chronically
infectious disease caused by the bacterium
Corynebacterium pseudotuberculosis.
Aspects of good dairy character in goats
include a sleek neck flowing into a strong
shoulder, chest, and rib area. Watch for
“winged” shoulders—weak, loose shoulders are
Selecting Animals
Younger animals may cost less initially, but
consider the mortality rate as well as the
expense, in terms of both money and time
spent, of raising animals to a productive age.
Some physical aspects of a dairy goat, such
as udder shape and body conformation, are
difficult to assess at a young age.
Before you start looking at a goat, ask
the breeder about general herd health. Not
everyone will give you an honest answer,
so look for yourself as well. We’ll talk about
specific health tests later. Discuss the traits and
qualities you are looking for. You may already
know a specific animal through your research.
If not, most breeders can help point you toward
just the right one. Before going to look at
animals, determine how many you want to buy
and how much money you want to spend. Ask
to see milk production records and records of
any offspring or parents.
You are narrowing your search, so look now
at the overall appearance of the goat. Does the
animal appear healthy and content? Is the hair
coat shiny and smooth or rough and ragged?
Be aware that spring shedding can cause a
Wattles are vestigial
appendages of
unknown use and
origin. Shutterstock
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productive life. Also, if you are managing dairy
goats with a natural feeding system of browse
and pasture, a strong pelvic region is important
for gathering browse. Goats will use their
back, hips, and rear legs to stretch and retrieve
plant branches. Having a strong, flexible, and
agile musculoskeletal system, especially in the
hindquarters, is therefore important.
Consider your goals particularly when
examining the udder. Good dairy goats should
have a well-placed and attached udder. Ideal
teat placement varies for different milking
situations. Regardless, teats should be evenly
placed at the base of the udder. Look carefully
to ensure each half has a single teat with no
supernumerary, double, or forked teats.
The udder should be carried slightly forward,
definitively attached behind the naval area.
Look for a strong rear udder attachment
that is wide and high and flows firmly into
wide escutcheon.
not desired. Goats can be easily weakened by
lung ailments, so having open ribs and a strong
chest floor helps defend against and heal from
respiratory ills. Open ribs and depth of body
allow for healthy rumen expansion and activity.
Having plenty of body capacity for eating and
rumen processing are important for dairy goats
with good production. Generally, goats with
extra body fat do not make strong milking
animals. Select animals that have a good body
capacity and are lean through the ribs and back
line. An ideal dairy goat has a smooth, level
top line and carries the frame evenly.
Look for a slight downward angle from the
hip to the pin bone. Older goats often develop
a steep angle, which can make kidding difficult.
Width of hip and pin bones is important. While
not directly associated with milk production,
a strong, wide pelvic region is characteristic
of a good dairy goat. This aspect allows for
fewer birthing difficulties and an increased
This goat has a smooth top line.
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and any issues with soremouth, CL, Caprine
Arthritis Encephalitis (CAE), Johnes disease,
or Q fever. Tests are available for many of these
diseases. Consider brucellosis and tuberculosis
tests, and ask about any respiratory or diarrhea
issues. If health test results are not available,
the seller is not willing to test, and/or you have
any doubts, ask an independent veterinarian to
submit samples for you. Be sure to negotiate the
purchase price with this cost in mind. There are
veterinary diagnostic laboratories throughout
the United States. The Washington State
laboratory (waddl.vetmed.wsu.edu) is a helpful
resource for testing goats.
The legs and feet of a dairy goat need to be
carefully examined. Even a highly productive
goat will need to be culled if she can’t walk.
Look for straight front legs without any swelling
at the knees. Hooves should be trimmed and
even. Sturdy rear legs angle slightly above the
knee and then straighten to a strong pastern
area below the dewclaw. Avoid goats with over
straight (posty) or bowed legs. Watch for weak
pasterns and other poor physical features that
may be hereditary.
Breeding bucks need to have an evenly
hanging scrotal sack encasing two fully
developed testicles. Bucks should have strong
hips and rear legs.
Ask the owner if they or you can milk
the goat if she is lactating. See how she
reacts to someone touching the udder, and
how the milk flows. This is particularly
important if this is your first dairy goat or
young children will be milking.
Other considerations for selecting dairy
goats include determining the desired
milk qualities. Individual animal milk
statistics for daily production and fat and
protein percentages need to be reviewed,
as well as current and past history of
somatic cell scores. Many commercial
herds test milk monthly through a Dairy
Herd Improvement program. Individuals
can have samples tested periodically.
The animal’s production and health
is determined both genetically and
environmentally. Animals being fed high-
quality alfalfa hay will not yield the same
production on poor quality pasture. Be
aware of the similarities and differences
of the animals’ current management and
how you will manage them. Spend a few
minutes assessing the animal’s attitude
when selecting a dairy goat. Will this
animal fit into your goals and plans?
Once you have found animals you like,
the price is right, and you are ready to
seal the deal, ask again about health issues.
Does the breeder have recent veterinary
tests to show the health of the herd or
the specific animals you are buying?
Ask about parasite load and resistance,
vaccination and deworming schedules, Goats need strong and flexible hindquarters to stand and browse.
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Evenly hanging scrotal sack with two fully developed testicles.
Tips for Moving Animals
When you move lactating animals, expect milk
production to drop in half initially. Change
of environment, water, feed, and people are
stressful. A goat may stop milking altogether
if she is near the end of her lactation. To make
the transition as easy as possible, ask the seller
if you can purchase a bale of hay or some
grains the animals are currently eating, be
gentle with the goats, and have their housing
or quarantine area at your property ready.
Minimize stress from moving and resettling
by refraining from transporting the goats in an
open truck without some type of shelter from
airflow or possible escape. Young goats can be
put into large plastic dog crates, plywood can
easily be attached to form a temporary wind
block, or you can borrow a horse trailer on
moving day. Be sure the transportation shelter
is appropriate for your weather conditions,
to protect the animals from precipitation and
excessive airflow but allow ventilation to avoid
overheating or suffocation. Bring shavings or
straw for bedding. If traveling a distance, bring
along water and hay, and stop along the way
to allow the animals to safely drink, feed, and
move around.
Here is an example of strong udder attachment with
good structure.
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Traits to Avoid Reason
Overall weakness Poor health, weak immune system
Rough hair coat Possible parasites, internal and external
Irregular jaw Difficulty tearing forage and cud chewing, especially with age
Broken teeth
Difficulty cud chewing, especially with age; uneven wear of teeth
can produce mouth sores
Soremouth Active, open sores; contagious
Caseous Lymphadentitis (CL)
Difficult to contain, spreads when abscesses burst; detrimental
when selling breeding stock
Winged shoulder Weak animal, poor body capacity, low milk production
Extra body fat Low milk production, health issues
Sway back Weak animal, poor body capacity, often leads to poor legs and feet
Steep rump angle
Often associated with weak udder attachments, difficult
breeding and birthing
Weak udder attachments
Poor udder health, often leads to low milk production and problems
with mastitis
Poor udder shape/ teat placement Difficult to milk, problems with mastitis, low milk production
Swollen knees
Difficulty standing, walking, foraging, drinking water; prone to injury,
general weakness and low milk production
Weak rear legs
Difficulty walking, foraging, jumping on milk stand; prone to injury,
general weakness, and low milk production. For buck, poor
breeding performance.
Posty or bowed legs
Difficulty walking and foraging; often seen with poor udder shape
and attachments, low milk production
Poor feet, bad hooves
Difficulty standing, walking, foraging, drinking water; may lead to
poor overall health
Bad attitude Not any fun to work with!
Kicks when milked No one will want to milk!
Traits to Avoid
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forages such as leaves on trees, shrubs, and
vines. They stand on their rear legs and reach
for their feed.
They do enjoy pastures of mixed grass
and legumes such as alfalfa, but they really
eat through a field edge of roses, poison ivy,
brambles, and other vines. For years, goat
nutrition was simply a downsized cow ration or
a sheep ration with slight variations. Happily,
goats are now recognized as their own species.
F
eeding goats is important to all other
aspects of raising them—breeding,
birthing, growing, milk production, and
health. With proper nutrition, dairy goats give
birth to lively offspring, provide milk, and build
a strong immune system. Goats are ruminants,
but in many ways so different from other
ruminants that we know—cows and sheep in
particular. One major difference is that goats
are browsers. They prefer to eat thick-stemmed
Feeding
Goats like to eat a variety of plants.
Chapter 3
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stomach system consisting of the reticulum,
rumen, omasum, and abomasum. Each of
these compartments have specialized physical
features and functions in the pursuit of
converting plant material to nutrients the goat’s
body needs.
A goat uses her lips, teeth, and tongue to
bring food into her mouth and swallow.
Goats have active salivary glands, aiding
in the movement and digestion of food.
Ingested food reaches the reticulum via the
tubular esophagus. The reticulum has an
interesting honeycomb-patterned lining. This
compartment helps mix and move feed in many
directions through its contracting actions. The
reticulum shifts feed into and throughout the
rumen, helps bring feed from the rumen to the
mouth for cud chewing, and also moves feed
further down the gastric system from the rumen
to the omasum.
Many prominent research institutes in the
United States are doing interesting nutritional
work with goats, and learning and sharing with
entities throughout the world.
Goats are classified as intermediate type
ruminants in Nutrient Requirements of Small
Ruminants, 2007. An intermediate ruminant
“consumes mixed diets and forages based on
season and opportunity. These animals prefer
diets based on the concentrate components
of plant material and will select shrubs and
browse, but also possess the ability to digest
cellulosic materials.” As the term “intermediate”
infers, goats are adaptable and have the ability
to utilize a variety of feeds in diverse and
challenging landscapes.
Gastrointestinal System
Let’s look at the goat’s gastrointestinal system.
Being ruminants, they have a four-compartment
A doe uses her lips and tongue to bring feed into her mouth.
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The largest of the four compartments, the
rumen is a storage compartment and a big
fermentation vat. A diverse population of active
microorganisms breaks down the ingested
plant material through secreted enzymes. A
goat relies on active rumen flora to begin the
digestion of plant material into life-sustaining
nutrients. In many ways, feeding a goat is really
feeding the rumen microorganisms. This is
one reason why sudden feed changes cause
problems. The rumen floras need time to adjust
to digest new feedstuffs.
Contraction of the rumen and reticulum
helps to mix and break down the material.
The rumen contractions cycle rhythmically,
one to two per minute. Slugs or boluses of
feed are brought back up to the mouth via the
esophagus for cud chewing. The grinding of
feed between the molar teeth further breaks
down plant fibers. The rumen lining has
finger-like papillae that absorb the volatile fatty
acids resulting from the enzymatic breakdown
of plant starch and fiber. These fatty acids—
acetic, propionic, and butyric—provide a large
percentage of the energy to meet the goat’s
nutritional demand. The microorganisms also
play an important role in making Vitamin K and
the B vitamins. The rumen begins functioning
in a goat kid at around 3 weeks of age and
usually reaches full capacity at 12 weeks. The
capacity has a range of 12 to 28 liters, with 20
liters being maximum capacity in most goats.
This varies depending on breed and ration fed1
.
The next compartment is the omasum. This
compartment is the smallest of the four, but has
a lot of surface area due to the multi-fold lining.
This absorptive feature reveals its function: to
absorb water and minerals prior to passing
the rumen-digested feed to the abomasum or
true stomach.
The abomasum has a similar function to that
of a human stomach. The lining cells secrete
hydrochloric acid and the enzyme pepsin. This
enzyme breaks down proteins in the feed prior
to moving the ingesta into the small intestine.
1 Goat Medicine, 2nd edition. Mary Smith and David
Sherman, 2009, p 379 Nutrient Requirements of Small
Ruminants, NRC, 2007, The National Academies Press.
In young kids, prior to rumen development,
milk is shunted directly to the abomasum
through a reticular (esophageal) groove. The
stomach of a young kid produces chymosin
(rennin), which coagulates the milk proteins.
This enzyme is extracted for cheese making, as
well as now being synthesized commercially.
The mature abomasum has a volume of about
4 liters.
The small intestine is well-packaged into
the right abdominal side of the goat. The mean
length of the small intestine of larger goat
breeds is around 75 feet. Most of the small
intestine is convoluted and fits neatly into its
abdominal space. Absorption of most of the
remaining nutrients occurs through the lining
of the small intestine. A myriad of vessels, both
blood and lymph, move amino acids, fatty acids,
and sugars to be used by destined body cells.
Digestive secretions from the pancreas, gall
bladder, and the intestinal lining itself aid in the
breakdown of remaining feed nutrients. The
small intestine can be permanently damaged
by severe coccidia infections, lessening the
absorption capabilities of the lining.
The large intestine completes digestion of
feed nutrients. The main function of the large
intestine is to absorb water and some vitamins.
The fecal pellets are formed in a coiled portion
of the large intestine called the spiral colon,
which has an interesting configuration of turns.
A series of specific contractions form the classic
pellets. The feces move through the final area
of the large intestine into the rectum and are
passed out through the anus.
Learning the gastrointestinal system and
how it functions helps in understanding what
goats eat and why. I encourage all goat keepers
to take an opportunity to explore its complexity
with an autopsy of a deceased animal. Beginners
are advised to do this with a veterinarian or
goat mentor to learn the basic parts and see
the structural positions inside a goat, size
comparisons of the compartments, and various
system linings. Reading about or seeing pictures
are one thing. Examining with your own eyes
and feeling the lining textures with your hands
enliven the lesson. This firsthand knowledge
will help you understand your goats literally
from the inside out.
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Protein – Protein is a building–block nutrient
containing nitrogen. Goats need protein to grow
their own bodies and those of their fetuses,
as well as for health, maintenance, and milk
production. Protein feeds are generally the most
expensive and scarce in many locations in a
browse area. There are high protein leguminous
trees, such as black locust and leucaena, but
limit sudden feeding of both of these plants
due to mild toxins. Alfalfa, clover, vetch, and
other low-growing leguminous plants also offer
protein and can be pastured by the goats with
careful planning; ensiled (preserved in a silo)
with caution for proper anaerobic fermentation
to avoid mold and listeria contamination; and
cut, cured, and baled for dry hay. Pastures
with pure alfalfa will be too rich for goats that
are unaccustomed to it. Feed dry hay prior to
turning animals into alfalfa pastures, and limit
the amount of acreage and time they spend
there. Goats do not readily eat fresh clover, so
mixing a few calves with goats will make good
use of a clover/grass/browse pasture, as the
calves will enjoy the clover while goats eat grass
and browse. Soy is often added to grain rations
to boost the protein levels.
Fats – Though fats provide more than twice the
energy of carbohydrates, there is little in a goat’s
diet, as plant material does not contain usable fats.
Adding them to feed because of the high energy
they provide is attractive, but ration fats must be
limited and are best protected from degradation in
the rumen. High fat levels in the rumen can cause
difficulties with normal plant fiber digestion.
Basic Feed Nutrients
The basic feed nutrients needed by goats
are energy (carbohydrates), proteins, fats,
minerals, vitamins, and water. Each nutrient is
so important for the growth, maintenance, and
production of a dairy goat; we’ll take a brief
look at each.
Energy (Carbohydrates) – Goats
need energy first to support the rumen
microorganisms, and then to support the goat
itself. Carbohydrates are the main source of
feed energy, though proteins and fats can also
supply energy. Grain and plant starch and fiber
are primary sources of energy. Lactating goats
need a lot of energy in their feed. Often, body
condition will suffer when the goat is in peak
lactation. The animal simply cannot eat enough
to meet the demand. Monitor these goats closely,
watching for parasite burdens and adequate
access to good forage. Change pasture/browse
areas frequently so they have fresh forage, feed
dry hay many times a day so they have access to
as much as they need without wasting, and feed
grains moderately. Energy demands at late-stage
pregnancy are also high. Be sure to provide
balanced feed during this period.
Cut hay bale twine at the knots
to make the twine more easily
reusable. A knot in the middle of
a string can get in the way.
The gastrointestinal system of your goat. Courtesy Barbara Carter
GOAT KID
rumen 30% rumen 80%
esophagus
esophagus
reticulum
reticulum
abomasum 70%
abomasum 7%
omasum
omasum
pylorus
pylorus
GOAT ADULT
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The supplements are important during
winter months in cold regions where fresh
forage isn’t available. Retaining a 2:1 ratio
of calcium to phosphorus is important. An
imbalance can cause problems of calcium
uptake with the start of lactation, as well as
other issues.
Vitamins – Vitamins are also important for
the overall function of a goat. Deficiencies often
manifest as inefficiency and unrealized potential
that go unnoticed and uncorrected rather than
through any outward signs of the goat’s health.
Vitamins are either fat soluble or water soluble.
Fat soluble vitamins include A, D, E, and K.
Water soluble vitamins include the family of B
vitamins and Vitamin C. The rumen microbes
synthesize B vitamins. Vitamins are necessary in
small amounts, though more research is needed
to understand their roles and requirements.
Water – Water is considered a feed nutrient. As
with other nutrients, without this vital intake,
a dairy goat will not grow, produce milk, or
maintain health. Water is a major constituent of
nearly all living organisms. Milk is 87 percemt
water; therefore milk production and general
growth will be minimized without frequent
access to water. Adequate water intake for male
goats can reduce the incidence of urinary calculi
formation. Sourcing clean water for your goats is
vital. Many areas are facing water shortages, and
in communities where hobby animals are not
considered essential, water access may be limited.
If you live in an area that is facing drought and
water restrictions, verify water resources.
Safety first! Don’t drink out of
a hose on a farm. Hoses can
be contaminated with manure,
chemical residue, and pathogenic
bacteria. Replace old, cracked, lead-
free hoses and nozzles. Test water
annually for coliform, nitrates,
and nitrites.
Many good books and Internet resources
give in-depth descriptions of the nutrients,
how the gastrointestinal system breaks them
Minerals – While energy and protein are
important nutrients for growth, reproduction,
milk production, and general health, minerals
play a pivotal role in keeping all the systems
working not just well, but working, period.
Imbalances or missing minerals will throw
off vital systems in a goat, sometimes with
fatal results. There are fourteen essential
minerals, both macro-minerals such as
calcium, phosphorus, potassium, and
magnesium; and micro-minerals such as
cobalt, copper, iron, and zinc. Goats that are
browsing fresh forage have increased intake
of naturally available minerals. Their natural
habit is to ingest a range of plant material,
getting different nutrients with each bite. Fresh
forages being cut and carried to goats should
mimic this feeding style, bringing a variety
for the goats to pick through. Minerals can be
supplemented through goat-specific mineral
mixes, general trace mineral salt blocks, and
other supplements, such as kelp.
Supplement mineral needs with a goat-specific mineral mix.
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at a good drinking height for your goats. Train
them to drink from the nipple, and then move
the cube into your pasture area.
Note: Goats that walk a distance will expend
energy. They will need to eat more to make up
for that energy loss to sustain milk production
levels. I find, though, that eating fresh forage,
even with walking to browse, increases the
quantity and improves the quality and flavor of
the milk.
The urushiol oily compound of
poison ivy can be on a goats’ hair
coat if they are browsing in a
patch. Take note to wash well or
avoid touching the animals if you
are sensitive to poison ivy.
Determine browse plant types—shrubs, small
trees—that will grow in your area and plant them
for your goats to browse. Check to make sure
you are not planting invasive species. Even with
goats browsing, some plant species are aggressive
growers and will crowd out native plants.
Goats will pasture on grasses such as orchard,
bluegrass, timothy, Bermuda, and ryegrass. They
do prefer a mix with leaf and twig stem fractions.
down, and the body uses them. Anyone
interested can spend days learning about each
nutrient. This fascinating subject is still being
researched and further understood as it applies
to dairy goats.
Understanding the building blocks of
nutrition allows you to knowledgably consider
various feedstuffs for your animals. Use local
sources, whether you are able to grow for
yourself or buy from neighbors. A unique
flavor of the milk and dairy products come
from plants grown in your local soils and
conditions. If you don’t have affordable access
to a variety of plants, utilize the resources you
do have.
Eating Habits and Behavior
Goats are adaptable browsers. The constant in
their feeding habit is variety. They thrive with
the ability to be out in a browse area gathering
goodness from local, seasonal plants. Goatherd
them into a wooded area of maple, oak, poplar,
and birch and watch the goats devour what
they can reach. They will, though, want to
move on, sometimes sooner than you do.
They will move to a woods edge to munch
bittersweet, poison ivy, brambles, Japanese
knotweed, and grapevines.
Next they will move into a field and take
bites of alfalfa, grasses, and weeds growing in
the field. They will generally take a rest and
begin digesting the plant material they have
gathered and stored in their rumens. After
some time of lying in the shade and chewing
their cud, they will rise as a group and start
foraging again.
This is great if you have a situation where
they can simply free range without fear of
poisonous plants (such as mountain laurel),
roadways, neighbors, or predators. Otherwise
you can use fences and plan some time for
both woods browsing and pasturing in the
fenced area. Set up your fence with a funneled
opening to bring the goats from the woods
into the desired pasture space. Make sure they
have some shade in the pasture area and water
if necessary. If no appropriate water source is
available, you can train your goats to use a hog
watering nipple. Retrofit a large water cube
with a hog watering nipple, and place the cube
A suburban goat keeper, with only
a half-acre neighborhood lot, takes
her goats into a local conservation
area daily to forage on local feeds.
Conservation-area stewards are
happy to keep plants browsed, and
area visitors are generally happy to
see the goats.Always check with
local land owners before taking
goats onto someone’s property.
Suburban Goats
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Goats happily browse in the woods.
Train your goats to access
a hog watering nipple,
which can be fitted to a
water cube.
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a variety of plants and nutrients. Supplement
with dry hay as needed in the barn or paddock
area and grain at milking if necessary to achieve
the animals’ potential and your production
goal. Grain can be a premixed concentrate, 14
to 18 percent protein, or a locally made grain
mix. Mineral mixes and salt should be available
at all times.
Goats can also be kept in smaller raised
pens and brought forage, although this requires
daily labor to gather feed and small equipment
for handling it. This is a good alternative if
you do not have an area for goats to browse.
Be sure to select a variety of greens that goats
like and watch their body condition, making
adjustments to their feeding as needed.
Many goats are managed in a confined area,
with an exercise paddock. Goats certainly can
grow, make milk, reproduce, and maintain
Staghorn sumac (Rhus typhina) and brambles
(Rubus spp.) are well liked. Herbs and wild
plants such as nettles (Urtica spp.), asters (Aster
spp.), rose (Rosa ssp.), and white Campion
(Lychnis alba) are some favorite goat plants that
grow in pasture areas.
Although this in many ways goes against
natural goat behavior, set up small areas with
electric net fences and permit the goats limited
but concentrated pasture. Moving them to new
feeding every 12 to 24 hours is ideal. Animals
need to be moved when blade height is grazed
to a minimum of 4 inches, as discussed above.
Determine the size and frequency of moving
pasture with consideration for precipitation,
soil conditions, plant species, and plant growth
rates. Rotating animals through a pasture
system and providing time foraging in the
woods and at field edges allows the goats to get
They will move from browsing to field edge.
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I planted a willow (Salix capra) browse area
in a damp lower field. This damp area is cool
in the summer, and I like to put goats there in
the heat of July and August. I don’t like the
goats eating grasses with their heads down in
that area, as the damp field is more likely to
host parasites larvae. Willows like a wet area,
and goats like willows. Also, willow leaves
contain condensed tannins, which may help
lower parasite burdens. I planted willow branch
cuttings in the spring and protected them with
a wire cage that will remain on the seedlings
to keep the goats from eating the bark and
killing the trees. I currently limit the goats’ time
in this pasture so the saplings can develop
more strength and leaf growth. Initial findings
are that the goats like the willows and prefer
to browse with their heads up. The goats will
eat the grasses around the trees, but I am sure
to move them out when the forage is down
to a minimum of 4 inches, as parasite larvae
normally travel 2 to 3 inches up a grass stem.
Moving animals out of areas when grass blade
height is eaten to 4 inches helps minimize
parasite larvae intake. The willows give the
goats additional forage in a cool area without
letting them eat the grasses down too far.
Willow whip growing with protective guard. Protect willow saplings and other new growth with strong
wire protection.
Willows and Goats
46 Chapter 3
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Above: Goats love nettles.
Left: Mixed goat grain is part of a
balanced ration.
themselves on a premixed standard ration,
provided that they also receive plenty of forage,
either as dry hay, silage, or green chop. Again,
feed forages and grains that are locally available,
understanding the needs for your goat’s stage of
life (i.e., growing, early lactation, late lactation,
late pregnancy).
Goats, with their smaller digestive systems,
prefer to eat several times a day. Mimicking
their natural habit of foraging smaller amounts
of feed and resting several times a day will help
your goats thrive and increase production. This
isn’t always practical, especially if the family is
working full time off the farm. Design a feeding
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schedule that works for your lifestyle, striving
for three to six feedings per day.
Available feeds for goats are generally
locally grown. Hay made with local grasses
and legumes is available in a wide range of
quality. Ask your provider for an analysis
of the particular hay you are buying, or
submit a sample yourself. Grain companies,
extension agents, and dairy herd improvement
associations (DHIA) will often submit hay
samples to a licensed laboratory for a small fee.
Ask for help understanding the results and how
this applies to feeding your goats. Processed
feeds, such as pasture cubes and hay stretcher,
are available in many locations. These products
help in times when hay is not available.
Body condition scoring is a monitoring tool for
assessing the body’s current state of energy
reserves.The Body Condition Score (BCS),
which ranges from 1 (extremely thin) to 9
(extremely obese), can be used to make changes
to management and feeding practices.A dairy
goat’s body is in flux during lactation and
pregnancy.A good energy reserve is needed to
carry a goat through her pregnancy and into
the first weeks of lactation.Too much reserve
(fat) causes problems with pregnancy toxemia
and other metabolic issues. Insufficient energy
reserves leave a doe struggling to meet her
and the fetus’ energy demands.This often
results in weakness at kidding and a lower milk
production throughout that lactation.The proper
body condition at particular stages throughout a
lactation year is important for health, increased
milk production, breeding success, and ease of
pregnancy and birthing.
BCS is a hands-on assessment.You are
feeling specifically for the bone structure,
attached muscle, and fat. Start by feeling the
goat’s spine at the base of her neck. Follow
down into the shoulders and further down to
the sternum. Go back to the spine and run your
hands along the vertebrae. Feel down along the
ribs, back up to the spine, through the hook,
and back over the rump to the pin bones. Feel
over the tail head.This assessment should give
you an overall understanding of the amount of
body fat and condition of the muscle.Assign a
number based on the following chart and enter
this in the individual animal record, along with
the date. Ideally an assessment should be made
three to four times a year, and in conjunction
with FAMACHA. Score animals before breeding,
in the last 3–4 weeks of pregnancy, and 6–8
weeks into lactation. Ideally a moderate BCS
of 4 to 6 should be maintained through the
lactation year, with a higher score of 5 to 6 at
the end of pregnancy and a lower score of 4 to
5 at 6 weeks into lactation. Make adjustments
in nutrition and management to achieve this
healthy body condition.
A low BCS (1 to 3) can be indicative of a
high parasite load, poor nutrition or absorption
of nutrients, and health concerns. Animals with
a high BCS (7 to 9) should be managed with
more activity and a change in their feeding
routine. Remember that all feeding changes
need to happen gradually. A dairy goat that
tends to put excess fat on her body is generally
not a highly productive goat. BCS trends can
be used in conjunction with your goals when
making decisions at breeding and culling time.
Body Condition
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Genetically modified plants are dominating
the animal feed world. Opposition to these
feeds creates opportunities for exploring
other options. Organic feeds are available on a
limited basis, depending on your locale. Buying
in bulk with other animal keepers can reduce
the costs.
The bulk of nutrients should be obtained
with forages, fresh, fermented, or dried. Offer
ensiled (fermented) feed with caution for
mold and listeria contamination. Grains, either
commercially processed or locally mixed, can
be added to balance the nutritional needs
of your goats. Below is a basic guideline for
nutritional needs based on various production
stages. Specific information on formulating
rations is beyond the scope of this chapter.
Langston University has developed the Langston
Interactive Nutrient Calculator (www.luresext.
edu/goats/research/nutr_calc.htm), which is
useful for figuring goat rations. Another useful
tool is a computer software CD developed at
University of California at Davis (animalscience.
ucdavis.edu/extension/software/capricorn/).
Watch your animals’ body conditions and
adjust feed accordingly. Work with your goat
mentor, veterinarian, and local agricultural
extension to learn more about feeding. Feeding
goats is a science and an art. The science is in
learning how the body works and the chemical
breakdown and use of nutrients. The art is in
observing your animals’ body conditions and
health, and adding feeds that will improve their
lives. Too much of a good thing can be too
much, so be sure to teach children and visitors
to go slow and easy with treats. Raisins, peanuts,
popcorn, black oil sunflower seeds, apples,
pears, berries, carrots, bananas, and garden
greens are nutritious treats goats enjoy.
There is currently a surge in finding
alternative feeds. Dairy barley fodder, which
sprouts barley seeds growing 6 to 7 inches,
makes a good feed alternative. Interestingly, this
feed was mentioned in Dr. Frank Morrison’s
Feed and Feeding from the 1950s. Barley fodder
did not gain much popularity back then, as grain
was inexpensive and readily available. Other
feeds being explored are moringa, spent grains
from brewers, and sainfoin.
LOW MODERATE HIGH
1
Emaciated; near death,
very thin, weak with
atrophied muscle
4
Slightly thin; some ribs
visible; thin flesh covering
hooks and pins
7
Fleshy; frame not visible,
spine felt with firm
pressure, hooks/pins
smooth
2
Extremely thin; not as
weak as BCS 1; ribs and
spine visible
5
Balanced; ribs and spine
felt smooth with flesh,
muscles obvious
8
Fat; ribs cannot be felt,
obese, tail head cavity
becoming fatty
3
Very thin; ribs visible,
spine prominent, no fat
cover under skin
6
Slightly fleshy; ribs
smooth, not very visible,
spine felt with pressure
9
Very obese; entire body
covered with extreme
amounts of excess fat
Body Condition Score
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Daily Dry Matter5
kg % BW
Energy 6
ME Mcal/d
Protein7
MP g/d
Ca8
g/d
P9
g/d
Mature Doe¹,
Maintenance
1.35 2.25 2.58 61 2.4 2.0
Mature Doe,
Breeding
1.49 2.48 2.84 67 2.6 2.1
Mature Doe, Early
Gestation, twins
1.64 2.73 3.14 100 6.3 3.7
Mature Doe, Late
Gestation, twins
1.69 2.82 4.05 143 6.4 3.7
Mature Doe, Early
Lactation,
milk = 11#/day
2.58 4.30 7.40 364 16.5 9.8
Mature Doe, Mid
Lactation,
milk = 9#/day
3.00 5.00 7.17 318 17.1 10.3
Mature Doe, Late
Lactation,
milk = 6#/day
3.08 5.13 5.89 252 17.2 10.4
Mature Buck²,
Maintenance
2.28 2.28 4.36 97 3.7 3.2
Mature Buck,
Pre-breeding
2.51 2.51 4.79 106 4.0 3.5
Growing Kid³,
Doeling
1.02 3.41 2.47 83 5.6 2.9
Growing Kid4
,
Buckling
0.96 3.21 3.01 97 6.7 3.3
1
Mature doe 132#, 60 kg
2
Mature buck 220#, 100 kg
3
Growing kid, doeling, 66#, 30 kg
4
Growing kid, buckling, 66#, 30 kg
5
Daily dry matter, kg and percent
body weight
6
Metabolizable energy
7
Metabolizable protein
8
Calcium
9
Phosphorus
Nutrient Requirements of Small Ruminants, National Research Council. 2007.
Basic Guideline for Nutritional Needs
50 Chapter 3
50 Chapter 3
#175 Dtp:204 Page:50

03-AC73442 #175 Dtp:204 Page:51
51
Feeding
(Text)
Research these interesting feeds to see if they
fit into your goats’ nutritional program and are
available in your area. As with all new feeds,
introduce alternative feeds slowly, allowing the
rumen microorganisms to adjust.
Wear light-colored or white
clothing when working with hay
or any chore on a hot summer day.
Feed Quantities
Goats will eat 3 to 5 percent of their body
weight in dry matter (DM) roughage per day.
Thus a 120-pound goat will eat between 3.6
and 6.0 pounds of DM roughage. Basically
speaking, dry matter is the weight of a feed with
water removed. Dried hay is around 90 percent
dry matter. Fresh forage is about 10 percent dry
matter, so a goat needs to eat 36 pounds of fresh
forage to get 3.6 pound of dry matter.
Fresh forage: 3.6 lbs. (DM required) /
.10 (10% dry matter)
= 36 pounds (fresh forage) as fed
Dried hay: 4.5 lbs. (DM required) /
.90 (90% dry matter)
= 5 lbs. (dried hay) as fed
If you choose to feed a 16- to 18-percent
protein grain mix for a milking doe, the
basic recommendations are one pound for
maintenance and one pound per every quart of
milk being produced per day.
Goats love spent brewer’s grain as much as brewers love the beer made from it!
#175 Dtp:204 Page:51

#175 Dtp:204 Page:52
52 Chapter 3
(Text)
Inches Pounds
21 ¼ 35
21 ¾ 37
22 ¼ 39
22 ¾ 42
23 ¼ 45
23 ¾ 48
24 ¼ 51
24 ¾ 54
25 ¼ 57
25 ¾ 60
26 ¼ 63
26 ¾ 66
27 ¼ 69
27 ¾ 72
28 ¼ 75
28 ¾ 78
29 ¼ 81
29 ¾ 84
30 ¼ 87
30 ¾ 90
31 ¼ 93
Inches Pounds
31 ¾ 97
32 ¼ 101
32 ¾ 105
33 ¼ 110
33 ¾ 115
34 ¼ 120
34 ¾ 125
35 ¼ 130
35 ¾ 135
36 ¼ 140
36 ¾ 145
37 ¼ 150
37 ¾ 155
38 ¼ 160
38 ¾ 165
39 ¼ 170
39 ¾ 175
40 ¼ 180
40 ¾ 185
41 ¼ 190
41 ¾ 195
Estimating Weight with Heart Girth Measurement
Colorado Intermountain Goat Grain Mix
40% rolled flaked corn 20% rolled wheat
20% rolled barley 10% soybean oil meal
The remaining 10 percent includes liquid molasses; a vitamin A, D, E supplement; and other
nutrients. Beet pulp can be added.The grain ration should not include more than 20 percent
of any one cereal grain and total cereal grains should not exceed 40 percent.
#175 Dtp:204 Page:52

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