garments---Effect of blent ratio on quality of polyester/cotton yarns
important to know
1.
2. Chemical damage (oxy or hydro)
Cellulose fabrics such as cotton, ramie & rayon, can
easily & readily be damaged by strong acids &
oxidizing agents. When these chemicals contact the
fabric, a degraded cellulose is formed.
The chemical reaction weakens the yarns, weakening
the fabric structure.
Hydrocellulose is a weakened form of cellulose which
is produced when an acid reacts with the fabric. This
type of damage can be caused by various
Acidic substances.
Many food & beverages which are acid in nature can
weaken the fabric.
3. Chemical damage (oxy or hydro)
Citric acids which are found in fruit juices, such as
grapefruit, orange, lemon & tomato can cause
hydrocellulose. If this acid bearing substances contact
the fabric & are allowed to remain for a length of a
considerable period of time , degradation will occur.
The damage may not become apparent until the item
is later cleaned & a hole develops.
Similar damage would occur if mineral acids such as
hydrochloric or sulpheric acid contact the fabric, even
dilute concentrations of these acids weaken fabrics.
4. Alcohol can cause color losses:
Many dyes, specially on silk and acetate
are soluble in alcohol, thus spillage or
contact with solutions containing alcohol
can cause color loss. Some common
solutions that contains alcohol are
alcoholic beverages, perfumes, skin
fresheners, after shave lotions
6. Shirt Problems
There’s a wide variety of elements which can influence the success in
processing a quality shirt.
Some elements can be controlled by proper processing, others are
inherent properties of the shirt which influence the results of
processing.
The following are shirt problems, their causes, techniques of prevention
& solutions.
Ring around the collars & cuffs
If ground-in soils around are not completely removed during washing, check
the washing formula (low alkalinity, water temperatures, & levels, overloading
are the most common factors. Severely soiled collars & cuffs may need to be
post-treated & scrubbed with a solvent-based cleaner & rewashed.
See the following photos
Collars & cuffs, particularly on polyester & cotton blend shirts may appear
soiled when the fabric is very worn & pilled. Replacing or turning the collar
&/or cuffs is the only solutions
7. We shouldn’t
keep using our
shirts until the
cleaning method
becomes so
harsh that they
will definitely
cause premature
damage to the
collars & cuffs
as well as
reducing the life
span of the shirt
, thus it’s very
important to
timely change
our shirts to
maintain the
personal hygiene
& cleanliness
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8. Continued
Puckers or wrinkles in collars & cuffs
If the interfacing fabric used in collars, cuffs or front
placket has not preshrunk or shrinks at different rate
from the outer fabric, puckers will result. The outer fabric
is now larger than the interfacing & it’s extremely difficult
to obtain a smooth finish. If this type of puckering is not
too severe, it maybe minimized if the shirt finisher works
the excess material to the back of the collar with a hand
iron.
If the shirt finisher is not pulling out & smoothing the
collars & cuffs or the press pad has lost its resiliency,
puckering will occur. Rewashing & proper finishing
should correct this problem.
See the following photo
11. Continued
Puckers or wrinkles in Banqueting
If the interfacing fabric used in front placket has not
preshrunk or shrinks at different rate from the outer fabric,
puckers will result. The outer fabric is now larger than the
interfacing & it’s extremely difficult to obtain a smooth
finish. If this type of puckering is not too severe, it maybe
minimized if the finisher works the excess material to the
back of the collar with a hand iron. If the finisher is not
pulling out & smoothing the collars & cuffs or the press pad
has lost its resiliency, puckering will occur. Rewashing &
proper finishing should correct this problem.
See the following photo
12. Continued
Puckers or wrinkles in Banqueting
Laundry faces such problem whenever there’s a wrong
selection!
For example the current Banquet uniform with the
interlining may perform well in the dry-cleaning, however
with time, specially with the service type, the uniforms
might be subject to soils that dry-cleaning with all the
available auxiliary additives fails to clean & wet washing is
the solution, only here starts the puckering case as shown
in the photos
16. Continued
Shirt problem
Dark marks at collar points
Dark area may develop at the collar points, this can be the
result of the shifting of adhesives or resins used to apply on
the interfacing (there’s no remedy for this)
Touching up or pressing shirt collars with a hand iron
with a dirty face plate can result in soil marks at collar
points. Rewashing should remove this.
17. Continued
Shrinkage
Most dress shirt are difficult to shrink. Some manufactures
have already allowed from two to three percent shrinkage.
This means a shirt with a 15 ½- inch neck & 33-inch sleeve
length could shrink approximately1/8 to ¼ inch in the neck
& ½ to ¾ inch in the sleeve. This shrinkage is usually not
enough to cause a complaint.
18. Antiperspirant
Natural or blends may be easily weakened when a
strong acid comes in contact with the fabric. Shirts
often shows this type of damage under the arm. Tests
run on damaged fabric show the presence of chlorides.
Aluminum chlorides found in antiperspirants will
weaken the fibers under the arms. Darning laundering,
the acid-weakened fibers break & wash away, leaving
a hole or a tear. This type of damage is often found in
an all-cotton shirt; the polyester fiber used in blends is
not really damaged by anti-perspiration.
19. Perspiration damage
Perspiration if allowed to stay in the shirt,
will eventually weaken the fabric,
allowing the weakened area to be removed
during washing. This type of damage will
often be found on all-cotton shirts rather
than blends.
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