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Similar to First Two Years in Water-wise Garden - Notes
Similar to First Two Years in Water-wise Garden - Notes (20)
First Two Years in Water-wise Garden - Notes
- 1. 1/6/2013
Out of the Wilds and Into Your Garden
The First Two Years
in the Native Plant
Garden
C.M. Vadheim and T. Drake
CSUDH & Madrona Marsh Preserve
Madrona Marsh Preserve
Gardening with Western L.A. County Native Plants
August 20 & 23, 2011
Project SOUND – 2011 (our 7th year)
© Project SOUND © Project SOUND
The first two years can be a little scary….. …trust me, it’s even more scary for the plants!
Nursery life is heavenly:
Plenty of water
Nice, appropriate, well-
drained potting soil
Extra nutrients
A little extra shade/
temperature control
Pest-free
Basically, a coddled life-
style that allows many of
them to survive infancy
(as they rarely would in
the wild)
© Project SOUND © Project SOUND
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What happens in nature? [Ceanothus] 10 Lessons to help you – and your plants -
Out in nature In the new garden through the first two years
A big disturbance – A big disturbance – you remove
fire/etc. removes at existing plants
least the shoots of
existing plants Plant Year 1 – the plant is established
in the nursery – likely more water,
Plant Year 1 – with nutrients than in nature
adequate rainfall seeds
to sprout & establish new Plant Year 2/Garden Year 1 – you plant
seedlings; root system your new Ceanothus in the garden –
develops what a shock! Some root/shoot
growth
Plant Year 2 – chugging
right along expanding Plant Year 3/Garden Year 2 –
roots & shoots developing good roots & shoots
Plant Year 3 – pretty Plant Year 4/Garden Year 3 – almost
much established established © Project SOUND © Project SOUND
What is the ‘Establishment Phase’? What is the ‘Establishment Phase’?
The period in which a new plant
becomes relatively self-sustaining Length varies by species,
(when given it’s requirements) – a but some general rules of
gradual process thumb:
Annuals: 1-2 months
Involves two aspects:
Herbaceous perennials: 1-3
Acclimating to the garden environment years
Developing sufficient root structure to Perennial grasses: 1-2 years
support and sustain the plant
Local sub-shrubs: 1-2 years
Generally, the plant becomes 2-3 Woody shrubs & trees: 2-5
times its planting size during this years; the larger & slower-
growing species take up to 5
Phase years
Plants require extra care during the
establishment phase
© Project SOUND © Project SOUND
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What is required during the Establishment Lesson 1: Plant with the seasons
Phase?
Increased observation
– as with any baby
Extra water during dry
periods – including
prolonged winter dry
spells and summer/fall
Decreased competition
from other plants –
most notably weeds
© Project SOUND © Project SOUND
What do we mean by ‘plant with the seasons’? The growth cycle of S. CA native
perennial species (herbaceous to woody)
Fall/winter rains (Dec-Mar)
Seeds germinate (many)
Begin above-ground stem growth
Leaf out (may be ‘spring’ leaves)
‘early’ flowering – some species
Spring warm/dry down period
(Apr-June)
Seed germination (warm weather)
Continue stem growth
Many will flower
© Project SOUND © Project SOUND
3
- 4. 1/6/2013
Advantages to planting during the rainy How much do I need to water during the
season first two years?
Saves water – soils are naturally
moist (Water Zone 3) during the
critical first few months
Vulnerable plants get the best
water possible; dissolved oxygen
& nutrients
Vulnerable plants are not
exposed to temperature
extremes (at least in the past)
Soils are well-saturated –
promotes deep/wide root
growth
Coincides with native plant’s
normal growth cycle; plants are
primed to grow at this time
© Project SOUND © Project SOUND
Lesson 2: Water to promote survival, not Watering: the impact of
abundant growth where we live
Region 3-South Coastal
Climate Zones 22, 23 & 24
CIMIS ETo Zones 1, 2, 4
and 6
Region 4-South Inland
Valleys and Foothills
Climate Zones 18, 19, 20
and 21
CIMIS ETo Zone 9
© Project SOUND http://www.water.ca.gov/wateruseefficiency/docs/wucols00.pdf © Project SOUND
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Newly planted native plants should get a
The benefits – and challenges – of where we live thorough soaking
We can grow plants from a number of plant
communities:
Soak new plants no matter
Wetland/riparian
what the planting season
Northern coastal prairie/CSS
Southern coastal prairie The first watering is
CSS important – over-soak to
Chaparral settle the soil & remove air
Southern oak woodland pockets
Mojave & Sonoran deserts
Overhead watering is fine –
We need to be aware of local weather patterns the plants will think it’s
Winters may be overly dry – or wet raining
Plants from some communities need more water than we usually
get – at least in the summer
© Project SOUND © Project SOUND
Treat new plants as Water Zone 3 for the So, we’ve gotten to June, and it’s starting
first winter/early spring (through April) to get hot & dry….
Rains may do the job
Check soil moisture, especially
if we have:
Long period (3+ weeks) with no
winter rains
Very hot periods (winter Santa
Anas)
Strong winds (soil dries faster
than you think)
http://royrector.com/garden/?p=124
Check beneath the surface
(under mulch) - ~ 3-4 inches
Dig down with trowel
Use a moisture meter or soil
sampler © Project SOUND © Project SOUND
http://www.ecofitt.ca/Products/WaterProducts/Lawn-and-Garden/Soil-Moisture-Meter
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The first dry season is crucial - and challenging We’ve been led to believe that all plants
grow like tropical plants…
http://dharmaconsulting.com/products/accelerating-change/
‘Don’t under-water; plants can die before they
become established’
‘Don’t over water! It leads to the death of many
native plants; their roots suffocate & die of rot or
disease.’
http://www.kriyayoga.com/love_blog/post.php/950
© Project SOUND © Project SOUND
…and now the native plant ‘experts’ are trying to give us Why can’t those (@@###**) experts get
the same 1-2-3 gardening rules their watering advice straight???
http://www.glenbrookenews.com/2009/10/04/home-owners-association-workhop/
http://kmgardendesign.com/Portfolio-CANativeGarden.htm
With CA native plants, one size does NOT fit all
© Project SOUND © Project SOUND
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Why can’t those (@@###**) experts get Gardens in Mediterranean climates
their watering advice straight??? (including S. CA) have three Water Zones
Your soils (and other Zone 1 – no supplemental summer water; soils
relevant conditions) may be are dry in summer/fall.
different
They may be talking about
Zone 2 – occasional summer water; soil is
a different climate region allowed to dry out between waterings.
(often N. CA) Watering is slow & deep to replenish the soil
water stores. In most gardens, you will water
They may be thinking
about different species deeply 1-2 times per month in summer.
http://www.glenbrookenews.com/2009/10/04/home-owners-association-workhop/
which have different
You need to consider the Zone 3 – regular water; soil is usually moist to
water needs
information source - and use the soggy, even in summer.
Water Zone principles
© Project SOUND © Project SOUND
Water Result/consequence Water Zone Principles for the first 2 years
Description Picture
Zone (for mature plants)
Many Zone 1 plants (including Interpretation: give more water ‘Water to keep the plant
many native to western L.A.
Zone 1
No supplemental
county & deserts) become
than the plant’s mature Water alive, not to make it grow
water summer dormant; some shade
Zone – but as close to it as
fast. Try to make the
reasonable. Taper the amount
species remain green
of water off as the root system plant drought tolerant!’
Includes ‘CA Natives’ from develops.
Occasional water; many plant communities; ‘Watering less often and
soil dries out occasional summer water more deeply to stimulate
Zone 2 between deep helps many species to remain
waterings evergreen – many also extend Interpretation: follow good roots to grow deeper
bloom season Water Zone practices (e.g. water instead of on the surface
deeply and less frequently) even where they will be
during the first 2 years
Regular water;
Only native riparian and some susceptible to drying out.’
Zone 3 soil moist/ soggy mountain/N. CA species – will
kill many local CA natives
© Project SOUND © Project SOUND
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Why more water during the first year? No two gardens are alike: that’s why you
need to monitor your soil moisture
Weaning from ‘nursery Check soil
conditions’ which moisture every 1-2
included plenty of water weeks during the
Less cover/shade = first year; water
higher evaporation rates as needed using
the ‘rules of
Less developed/ thumb’
efficient root systems -
< 10% of area covered by Remember: some
roots areas may dry out
more quickly
The only way you can assure that you are
watering correctly is to use the Water Zone
method and check your soils!
© Project SOUND © Project SOUND
Watering rules of thumb - Year 1: The best ways to supply water during the
First winter/spring – Zone 3
the first 2 years (rain alone may suffice)
first two years – S. CA gardens
First summer/fall – one full
Water Zone more than it’s Low frequency (1-4 times a
mature Zone – decrease month), long duration (4-12 hours)
slightly in Aug/Sept unless it irrigation is best to thoroughly
gets summer rain in nature soak the soil.
Year 2: Hose, drip, soaker hose or low
Second winter/spring – water volume "micro“ sprinkler are
only if rains are inadequate often good choices
http://lawncare.savvy-cafe.com/save-money-and-water-with-smart-lawn-and-garden-tips-2009-08-17/
Second summer/fall:
Use overhead watering very
Grasses & local native sub-
shrubs: mature Water Zone carefully – don’t let leaves remain
All other perennial/woody
moist in warm weather
species: ½ Zone above mature Do not water during the heat of
Zone – decrease slightly in
the day. Try very early morning
Year 3: large woody shrubs/trees: Aug/Sept. unless it gets
occasional supplemental summer water summer rain in nature or evening (good in coastal areas)
© Project SOUND © Project SOUND
http://www2.ljworld.com/photos/2009/aug/16/
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Some more irrigation tips for watering young
This class is about teaching you ‘how to fish’
native plants For individual plants, drip irrigation or
hose watering is best. You can even use
a ‘Homer Bucket’ for individual plants.
For large areas, micro-sprinklers or
soaker hoses are best – good flexibility,
control & coverage.
Don’t forget to move the irrigation out
as roots grow; make sure that the
entire root system gets wet.
Because conditions vary from garden to
garden, and even within gardens, the
best irrigation schedule is determined
by watching your plants. Manually set
each zone on the controller.
Relax: in well-drained soils, water is not
typically an issue when the appropriate
plants are chosen for the site (i.e., full
sun, coastal...), and planting takes place http://www.clipartheaven.com/show/clipart/kids_stuff/images_(a_-_f)/fishing-gif.html
during the cool, rainy season
© Project SOUND © Project SOUND
Bunchgrasses – Year 1:
First winter/spring – Zone 3
Why do bunchgrasses mature quickly
Water Zone 1-2 (rain alone may suffice) (have a short establishment Phase)?
First summer/fall – one full
Water Zone more than it’s
mature Zone – decrease Perennial grasses tend to grow
slightly in Aug/Sept unless it
quickly – they establish an
gets summer rain in nature
extensive root system the
Year 2:
first year
Second winter/spring – water
only if rains are inadequate They tend to have relatively
Second summer/fall: deep roots (3+ feet) compared
Grasses & local native sub- to non-native lawn grasses
Deergrass – Muhlenbergia rigens shrubs: mature Water Zone
All other perennial/woody S. CA bunchgrasses tolerate
species: ½ Zone above mature
Year 3: large woody shrubs/trees: Zone – decrease slightly in
dry conditions really well
occasional supplemental summer water Aug/Sept. unless it gets
summer rain in nature http://www.pitzer.edu/offices/arboretum/tongva_gard
en/plants/19-Muhlenbergia_rigens.htm
© Project SOUND © Project SOUND
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The growth cycle of S. CA native A comparison of two shrubs
perennial species (herbaceous to woody)
Coastal Sage Scrub Chaparral
Dry period (June/July-Nov)
Black Sage – Salvia mellifera Bigpod Ceanothus – C. megacarpus
Stem elongation (slower; may be
‘summer’ type growth pattern)
Foliage: effect depends on species
Evergreen plants usually produce no
new leaves – but retain leaves
Many plants in some plant communities
(Coastal Sage Scrub; Coastal Prairie;
Coastal shrubland) are drought
deciduous
Some plants from these communities
produce special ‘summer leaves’ that
may remain on the plant until late
summer
Why this variability & what May leaf out & even flower if summer
does it mean for watering? rains/watering occur
© Project SOUND © Project SOUND
California Black Sage – Salvia mellifera Black Sage – Salvia mellifera
A “CA coastal plant”
Coastal ranges from San Jose to
Baja
Channel Islands and Baja coastal
http://www.swsbm.com/Maps/Salvia_mellifera.gif
islands
on South and West facing slopes
on rocky soil in California's
coastal sage scrub and chaparral
plant communities
Often in slightly wetter sites
than other native Salvias
Common; may form dense thickets
in wild
http://ucjeps.berkeley.edu/cgi-bin/get_JM_treatment.pl?4745,4865,4880
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Watering rules of thumb: Black Sage – Salvia mellifera –
Zone 1-2
Year 1:
First winter/spring – Zone 3 (rain
alone may suffice)
First summer/fall – one full Water
Zone more than it’s mature Zone –
decrease slightly in Aug/Sept.
Year 2:
Second winter/spring – water only
if rains are inadequate
Second summer/fall:
Grasses & local native sub-shrubs:
mature Water Zone
All other perennial/woody species:
½ Zone above mature Zone –
decrease slightly in Aug/Sept.
http://www.cnps.org/programs/vegetation/Coyote_Ridge/images/10a_Artemisia_californica-Salvia_mellifera_SS.jpg
Black Sage is one tough plant – and part of the reason is Year 3: large woody shrubs/trees:
it’s summer dormancy!!!! occasional supplemental summer water
© Project SOUND
Big-pod Ceanothus – Ceanothus megacarpus Big-pod Ceanothus – Ceanothus megacarpus
Coast of S. CA from
Santa Barbara to San
var. insularis Diego Co. – CA
endemic
var. insularis – Channel
Isl. (Catalina & San
Clemente in south)
var. megacarpus –
mainland (Santa Monica
Mtns our nearest)
var. megacarpus Dry, chaparral slopes
below 2000 ft.
© Project SOUND © Project SOUND
http://ucjeps.berkeley.edu/cgi-bin/get_JM_treatment.pl?Ceanothus+megacarpus+var.+insularis
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Big-pod Ceanothus Ceanothus – Year 1:
Soils:
is a chaparral shrub Texture: rocky or sandy best Water Zone 1-2 First winter/spring – Zone 3 (rain
– needs well-drained soil alone may suffice)
pH: any local First summer/fall – one full Water
Zone more than it’s mature Zone –
Light: decrease slightly in Aug/Sept.
Full sun to light shade unless it gets summer rains in
Benefits from afternoon nature
shade in hot inland gardens
Year 2:
Water: Second winter/spring – water only
Winter: needs good winter if rains are inadequate
rains
Second summer/fall:
Summer: low needs – Zone 1-
Grasses & local native sub-shrubs:
2 (water very infrequently, if
mature Water Zone
at all, once established)
http://www.calflora.net/bloomingplants/bigpodceanothus.html
All other perennial/woody species:
Fertilizer: none; likes poor soils; ½ Zone above mature Zone –
likes an organic mulch decrease slightly in Aug/Sept.
Year 3: large woody shrubs/trees:
unless it gets summer rains in
occasional supplemental summer water
© Project SOUND
nature © Project SOUND
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3373/3275037528_782b3c6c8f.jpg?v=0
Comparison of yearly cycle: CSS vs Chaparral What happens when mature shrubs dry out?
Coastal Sage Scrub Chaparral
Coastal Sage Scrub Chaparral
Environmental Environmental
Lower total moisture/rain Higher total moisture Twigs become very Twigs don’t become so
Rain & snow dehydrated (lose 75-90% of dehydrated (lose 15-~40% of
May also have summer rains their water) their water)
Moderate temperatures Wider temperature extremes Causes emboli (air bubbles) in Less apt to develop emboli
Less natural mulch More natural mulch the water conducting
vascular tissue (Xylem tubes)
Growth patterns Growth patterns
Summer deciduous (facultative) Evergreen
Causes plants to lose their Thus, they can remain
leaves & become dormant evergreen
Short, rapid growth season – Longer growth season –
winter through May/June spring through summer CSS shrubs are programmed Adult plants (which are
May produce separate ‘summer May have growth/flowering to grow rapidly in response drought tolerant) don’t need
foliage’ (late spring) that is after summer rains to water – they need to ‘re- to react so quickly to water
more drought resistant grow’ their vascular tissue
© Project SOUND © Project SOUND
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Differences in root growth reflect native Take-home message
environment
Perennials from CSS, Coastal
Coastal Sage Scrub Chaparral Shrubland and Coastal Prairie have
dense, shallow roots
Environmental Environmental
Lower total moisture/rain
Higher total moisture They tend to become established
Rain & snow quickly (1-2 years) and be < 6 ft tall
May also have summer rains
Moderate temperatures Wider temperature extremes They tend to dry out in early
More natural mulch summer – either losing their leaves
Less natural mulch
or growing small summer leaves
Roots – 1-8x above-ground Roots – 6-40x above-ground area
Mature plants do best with little
area Shallow roots – like CSS; grow
with rain (Zone 1-2) water; will stay green
Wide-spread, multi-branched
+/- Intermediate (often re-
longer – but shorter-lived – with
(net-like) shallow (0-3 ft)
roots – very efficient for sprouting) roots more (Zone 2)
water, nutrient up-take; grow +/- Very deep vertical roots –
with winter rains down into bedrock & watertable
© Project SOUND © Project SOUND
Watering rules of thumb - Year 1:
Take-home message First winter/spring – Zone 3
the first 2 years (rain alone may suffice)
Plants from Chaparral have both First summer/fall – one full
shallow & deep roots, allowing Water Zone more than it’s
them to maximize available mature Zone – decrease
water slightly in Aug/Sept unless it
gets summer rain in nature
The roots take longer to develop
– hence the longer Year 2:
Establishment Phase for Second winter/spring – water
Chaparral shrubs only if rains are inadequate
Second summer/fall:
Once established, Chaparral
shrubs are very drought Grasses & local native sub-
shrubs: mature Water Zone
tolerant
All other perennial/woody
The roots of Chaparral shrubs species: ½ Zone above mature
allow them to be both evergreen Year 3: large woody shrubs/trees: Zone – decrease slightly in
and a large size (usually > 6 ft) occasional supplemental summer Aug/Sept. unless it gets
water; all others at mature Zone summer rain in nature
© Project SOUND © Project SOUND
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What plant communities normally How do I know if my plants are growing properly?
experience some summer moisture?
Summer monsoons Summer fogs
Sonoran Desert Northern Coastal Sage
S. CA Mountain Scrub/Coastal Chaparral
Communities
Chaparral (+/-) Fog events (usually over
several days) can provide up
to 2-3 inches of precipitation
Summer monsoon events
Can occur from June-Aug
usually Aug-Sept
Fog drip occurs at night
Locally rare – but can
contribute significant
precipitation in a single
event (1/2-3”)
© Project SOUND © Project SOUND
Lesson 3: Species have normal growth You may have heard this old saw about
patterns; speed; size; shape; etc. the growth of CA native plants…
This probably fits large shrubs best
© Project SOUND © Project SOUND
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Grasses and grass-like plants look good, Bunchgrasses look a little thin the first year
but smaller, the first year
Nassella – 6 months
12 months
© Project SOUND Nassella – 24 months © Project SOUND
Thin Grass – Agrostis pallens Rushes & sedges
keep getting bigger
12 months
3 months
24 months
‘lawn-like’ grasses take 1-2
6 months years to look mature
© Project SOUND 24 months © Project SOUND
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Perennials, especially the groundcover Hummingbird Sage – Salvia spathacea
types, often look pretty wimpy the first year
© Project SOUND
Woody groundcover plants fill in readily
Hummingbird Sage – slow to go
2 years after planting
12 months
Pigeon Point coyote brush (Baccharis pilularis 'Pigeon Point'), deer grass and
Canyon Prince giant rye (Leymus condensatus 'Canyon Prince'
26 months
© Project SOUND © Project SOUND
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Sub-shrubs often look mature quite early
Large shrubs/small trees go through
an ‘adolescent phase’
6 months
4 months
12 months
Remember: these are CSS
sub-shrubs – they grow &
mature quickly
8 months © Project SOUND
Lemonadeberry – Rhus integrifolia Lemonadeberry in the wild
http://www-
http://www.ovrp.org/vegetation/images/Lemonadeberry.jpg laep.ced.berkeley.edu/laep/courses/courses_la112.html
Can grow as individual plants or form close thickets
http://www.sanelijo.org/about/images/lemonadeberry.jpg
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Heritage Creek hedgerow Blue/Mexican Elderberry –
Sambucus nigra spp. cerulea (S. cerulea)
Fall, 2009 – 1.5 years
Spring 2011
http://www.timetotrack.com/jay/elderb3.htm
Fall 2010
1 year in the garden
Elderberry doesn’t need a lot of pampering; in fact, it seems to thrive on neglect 6 months in the garden © Project SOUND
2 years in the garden
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Lesson 4: Mulch to conserve water – and
much more
Will take some time & pruning to reach this mature size!
© Project SOUND
Mulches do more than just conserve water….. Mulch helps in the transition period
May help control the spread of plant
diseases
May help control the effects/ numbers
of insects
May help fruit/vegetable development
http://www.ehow.com/how_2354262_ch
May help prevent soil erosion
oose-between-rock-wood-mulch.html
Keeps feet clean, allowing access to
garden even when damp
Provides a "finished" look to the garden
Can be an important design element
(if desired)
http://www.bringingbackthenatives.net/slides/Rosenbaum_2009/index.html
© Project SOUND © Project SOUND
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Conserving water & soil: mulch tips Organic mulches need to be renewed
every fall
Mulch when/where
appropriate – great water
management tool Why the need to renew?
Compaction
Choose mulches appropriate Decomposition/breakdown
for the plants (most Loses it’s color
important) and the physical
conditions – see workbook Benefits of mulch
materials renewal in fall
Organic mulches Easy time – when plants
are dormant/pruned
Inorganic mulches
Adds color/interest
Look to Mother Nature Prepares garden to
when choosing mulches conserve the winter rains
© Project SOUND
© Project SOUND
http://www.bringingbackthenatives.net/slides/Kasameyer_2009/index.html
Lesson 5 :Fill in the gaps with annuals, Filler plants are a
short-lived grasses, ‘filler plants’ life-saver
Short-lived grasses
Blue wildrye – Elymus glaucus
CA Brome – Bromus carinatus
Annual wildflowers
Clarkias
Tidy-tips
Globe Gilia
Phacelias
Everlastings
Perennials that re-seed
CA Poppy
Rosy Buckwheat
© Project SOUND © Project SOUND
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Blue Wildrye – Elymus glaucus Blue (Western) Wildrye – Elymus glaucus
Short-lived, cool-season bunchgrass
Occurs: coast to mountains; open
areas, chaparral, woodland, forest
- often riparian areas
Size: 1-3+ ft; spreading – texture
somewhat coarse (typical ryegrass)
Light: full sun to light shade (under
Mulefat or Elderberry)
Soils: well-drained
Water: best on moderately moist
soils but fairly drought tolerant
Good for natural-looking areas,
slopes/banks, with oaks and conifers,
http://www.gardenopus.com/ElymusGlaucus.JPG
as an accent plant
USDA-NRCS PLANTS Database
© Project SOUND © Project SOUND
http://jrbpgrasses.blogspot.com/2006/04/blue-wildrye-elymus-glaucus-apriljune.html
Herbaceous perennial groundcovers What to do the first
make great filler plants few years
Yarrow – Achillea millefolia Nice mulch; fencing
Woodmints – Stachys spp Annual wildflowers
Coastal Aster Short-lived, quick-growing
http://www.bringingbackthenatives.net/slides/Salsig_2009/index.html
perennials & grasses
CA Fuschia – Epilobium canum
Informative signs
© Project SOUND © Project SOUND
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Lesson 6 : Weeding is a fact of life Lesson 7 : Start pruning in the first year
Weeds compete for water, nutrients & light – and
they’re very good at it (that’s why they’re weeds!!
© Project SOUND Remember – this plant gets very large without yearly tip-pruning
© Project SOUND
Properly pruned Black Sage Lesson 8 : Monitor your progress/revise
your plan as needed
Leave 3-4 pairs of new leaves/shoots
© Project SOUND
© Project SOUND
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Monitoring for problems Lesson 9 : Keep a Journal/ take photos
Plant water status
Plant health/pests
Plants dying
Areas with too much or too
little water
Erosion/drainage problems
Gaps in the plant cover (only
after first 2 years or so –
hard to tell before that)
Plants that don’t fit the
design/ are out of place
© Project SOUND © Project SOUND
Madrona Water-wise Garden – Est. 12/05
December 2005 - installation December 2006 – 12 months
At 15 months, many
plants appear quite
mature. Why?
April 2007 – 15 months
April 2006 – 3 months © Project SOUND © Project SOUND
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‘Garden of Dreams’ – CSUDH – Est 1/09
April 2009 Feb. 2010
April 2009 Feb. 2010
July 2009 April 2011 © Project SOUND July 2009 April 2011 © Project SOUND
Madrona Native Plant Garden – Est. 1/00
© Project SOUND © Project SOUND
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Observations Observations
Some plants have not
Species distribution has made it – others have
changed – much like in flourished
nature (annuals & re-
seeders common early on) Some plants are now in
too much shade –
As expected, smaller succession
plants established more
quickly Some plants probably
planted in the wrong
The early garden looks place – grew too big
‘flat’ and ‘boring’ – many
slow-growing species not Some new plants are
yet visible needed every year to fill
gaps
© Project SOUND © Project SOUND
Evolution of a front yard…
http://www.gardenofnativeplants.com/about/
2009
2005
http://www.bringingbackthenatives.net/slides/Zander_2009/index.html
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At one year At two years © Project SOUND
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Lesson 10 : Learn from Mother Nature –
the ‘Head Gardener’
Third spring
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Evolution of the Sasayama front yard
© Project SOUND © Project SOUND
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Lessons for the First Two years We hope this class has helped you
1. Plant with the seasons understand the first two years
2. Water to promote survival, not abundant growth
3. Species have normal growth patterns; speed; size;
shape
4. Mulch to conserve water – and much more
5. Fill in the gaps with annuals, short-lived grasses,
‘filler plants’
6. Weeding is a fact of life
7. Start pruning in the first year
8. Monitor your progress/revise your plan as needed
9. Keep a Journal/ take photos
10. Learn from Mother Nature – the ‘Head Gardener’
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